Why This ALTERNATOR SAVED MY TRUCK & ELECTRIC FANS!
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- Опубликовано: 13 июн 2019
- Why This ALTERNATOR SAVED MY TRUCK & ELECTRIC FANS!
In this video I fix a problem that has plagued my truck ever since I installed a set of dual electric fans a few years ago; low amperage and low voltage at hot idle. The fix was simply replacing the alternator with a Mechman 250 amp Elite. This Elite model of alternators is made to the very highest quality and produces 198 amps at idle and 256 amps at cruise. Once installed all my charging system problems were gone and thus proved the only problem I was having after the electric fan install was the low output alternator could not keep up with the amperage requirements at idle.
Why You Should NEVER EVER INSTALL ELECTRIC FANS : • Why You Should NEVER E...
Klein Clamp Meter: amzn.to/2MMjuda
The alternator featured in this video is a Mechman 250 Amp Elite model 81657250.
The truck featured in this video is a 1995 GMC Suburban (GMT-400, OBS, K1500). The GMT400 platform ran from 1988-1998 and included Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Sierra and Silverado.
**This channel is for entertainment purposes only! Do not do what I do. Do not take my advice. I am not a professional. The methods I use may be completely wrong and/or dangerous. Please seek professional help with anything and everything and do your own due diligence (research). Working on cars is extremely dangerous. I am not responsible for any loss of life or limb or property. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. THIS CHANNEL IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY!**
FTC Disclaimer: I am an Amazon affiliate. As such, I earn a percentage of sales made through Amazon Affiliate links found in the description of my videos and on my website and other places. 
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Great choice of alternator! Mechman is the best!! It's all i run. Good video.
omg Meade916 is in the house, i've been trying to call numerous times, need ya help!
Holy crap still on the electrical system!!!
Many EXCELLENT points covered in your rwo videos. Thank you so much for this information.
Great job on the video again you are by far one of the best and honest RUclips video providers. Anyone who can admits when they don't know something when they are trying something and that when finances are a situation. Is a true testament to a someone he wants to help others
But I really like you start with the basics you try to fix it within a budget and you want to upgrade your vehicle's.
I agree a quality high output alternator does the trick. What you will have to watch is your battery taking the high amount of charge into it. I usually upgrade my with serviceable batteries so I can watch the fluid.
I always recommend to anybody with vehicles 15 years change your battery and alternator cables to ground and starter.
I personally use heat shrink or brush on electrical protector near my lugs. And dielectric grease at the contact points.
I like the upgrade on your electric fans I think you should be protecting those wires with a wire loom and relocating the fuse location to I colder area
I would also suggest a tip. If people are attempting alternator upgrades. And are limited in finance check the auto wreckers for wrecked ex police fire or ambulance units they all have upgraded high output alternators and starters. Yes they are used but they can be tested or rebuilt at a cost savings
Great video and the most important it was family / wife approved
Many good points here. The day of the belt driven fan is mostly gone now, replaced by electric fans. The driving force is a slight improvement in fuel economy, though there is a price to pay for extra electronics.
very little fuel economy ..but much more risk of cooling failure compared to solid belt driven fan blade
i needed me a channel for everything i swapped on my 95k1500
front sas swap from 85k10, trans swap, tcase swap, rear axle swap for 14 bolt. man wish ida been as smart as this guy to post it all up
You should!! People love OBS trucks!!
Great vid. So many people need to watch this
VERY NICE to know for my 93 gmc siera !! Thanks !!
Some great ideas here. I have a 92 Dodge diesel that needs some help getting air to the AC condenser in the summer. I've looked into electric clutches, electric fans to replace the belt drive fan, and pusher fans. Im leaning more toward pusher fans for redundancy. If they fail ill still have the factory fan and if it fails ill have the pusher fans.
First thing I did to my 97 burb. After watching your flex a lite fan video. I knew I'd need more juice.
MECHMAN FTW
Dude, I've literally been waiting years to see you replace that crap power master alternator. I watched you do all those grounds. So satisfying to see you get the right parts finally!
Haha, I wouldn't call the PowerMaster crap. Some of the blame is upon me for ordering an underpowered unit (though it didn't do anywhere near what they rated it at idle...) Just very happy I finally don't have to worry about voltage at a stop light in the summer.
@@1RoadGarage You are right, the power master was just insufficient. Very nice to see you install the mechman. Now you can put a nice sound system in the suburban with no problem at all! You have plenty of amps to play with, let's see you throw 1000 watts at a single 15 inch subwoofer in a ported box. Plenty of room back there too! That would make an awesome set of videos. If you need advice on cost effective, quality equipment, let me know and I'll show you the way. I currently have a 300 amp alternator, 2x group 31 AGM batteries, 1 Orion XTR 750.4 ($139) on the mids and highs, 1 Orion XTR 2500.1($349) on the subwoofers which are two 12" American Bass XFL's in a ported box. The system sounds amazing, and it was cheap. I'd say $1000 for all my equipment.
I was just about to buy everything in a couple days to do the same thing, glad you did a update on what was happening and what size alternator you went with so I can do the same to my 2004 suburban, because I live in AZ and I really need this upgrade now with the summer already here.
Mechman alternators also sell an adjustable voltage regulator you can adjust right in the cabin. I'd say 250 amps is more than enough for any regular application, unless you run a big stereo system or something.
Many thanks for good explanation you are very professional and I am happy to follow your recommendation well done and keep sending more video's
Best Regards
Saad from Saudi Arabia
Great info and started looking into this and the Big 3 for my 99 Tahoe.
Always good informative videos.
Jimmy, as one of your biggest critics I have to say this was an excellent video, you went about diagnosing and servicing methodically and logically using measurement tools to find the issue and work through it rather than just tossing money at it.
Great video my man.
Fantastic choice on the alternator. I wouldn’t use any other brand but Mechman.
Great thorough work, Jimmy! Idk if I'll ever attempt this electric fan setup, I think I'll stick to the caveman ways of the stock fan lol Have you considered adding a deep transmission pan and possibly a larger transmission cooler to the 95? Might make for a fun short series
Great product Mechman
Thank you for this video ❤
Same alternator I got for to help charge the camper battery. Does a great job
Great information! Thank you for the video.
Nice video electricity is not my thing and you make me understand clearly so ty and keep it up
I'm happy you solved the problem,
Interesting that the voltage on the gauge matches my 93 C2500 Suburban (7.4) exactly, but I'm still running the stock 105A alternator and a mechanical fan. It shows over 14V when cold, but gradually drops under 14V once warm and when everything is going. You're right that the gauge on the dash is likely worthless. I use a USB adapter in the cigarette lighter that shows voltage, and it shows 14.2V at cold start and 13.6-13.8V once warm depending on how much stuff I have on. I've validated it against a voltmeter hooked to the battery terminals, and it's a very accurate gauge.
Overall, I think I'll stick to the mech fan. I upgraded the 5 blade to a 9 blade from a late 90s 454, and that seemed to really give me all the extra cooling power I needed.
Those voltage readings are pretty normal. Voltage regulator in most stock type alternators are overly protective of overcharging the battery. Usually isn't a problem. However, if you run down the battery more than a little it can take hours of driving (not idling) to bring the battery all the way back to full charge. Takes some time at 14.5v or a little more to get to 100%. Even longer if 12.6-14. As long as its above 12.6 the battery charges just not very fast. Alternator has to replace all those "missing" amps and the output at low rpm is small. The factory voltage gauge is good enough but it doesn't tell the whole story. Each of those lines is 7/10ths of a volt. Turn the key to on without starting and see what it indicates. Then check the battery with a handheld volt meter. Gauge will be close enough in my experience. The stock alternators just aren't great. A good charger/desulfator hooked up to the battery occasionally is a good idea. So is frequent highway driving.
1/0 AWG OFC Wire would be the icing on that cake. Mechman FTW, I have one too.
I installed #282 fans in my Silverado.
Also, a 170 amp alt from someone here on RUclips (Alternator Man)
It was a drop in application. No adjustments. Easy deal.
I adjusted my fans to come on AFTER my thermostat opens. So, they are not running all the time. Only when needed
I’ve had nary a problem
Zip, zero, etc
@Aaron Wilson Flexalite 282 fits the 99-04 GM trucks and SUVs with a 34" radiator only 4.8-6.0 V8. So most 1500s. 2500 and above, or the 8.1 V8 may not apply for this fan. That alternator you have to look that up above.
The extra wire that you hooked up to a “switched source”, did you mean a source that switches on when the vehicle is turned on? how did you attach that wire to your fuse box? Thanks for the great video!!! I’m gonna do this and the electric fans to my 96 Chevy G20!!!
Meanwhile people with Sound systems
*Quad 250 Amp Alternators*
They're basically have truck half mobile generator.
my SUV has a 60kw generator 330volts @ 185AMPS gotta power the motors
Some audio guys use 4 or 5 alternators with 370amps & the alternator alone will take most of the engine power when on full load.
I have a stock 230 amp alt with 4 batteries in parallel and solar panels for 2.5 amp charge running 4 amps and a 1kw inverter. My headlights don't even flicker
Mechman is one of the best! Being in the car audio world you made a great choice. Irraggi and CES are great options as well. Love the vids!
Excellent vid man...great info to know
You make Great videos! How are you flexalite fans doing? Is the controller for it still working great? I really would like to know. I'm about to do my silverado. Thanks again for your video?👍
Great video Jimmy!
Hey Jimmy what 12 volt switched source did you tap into in your fuse panel
You can get these alts colored for $25 too, which is a nice touch for being a little more expensive!
Nice powerful alt! Thanks Jimmy.
👍
Wonder how this alternator would work for my cabin in the mountains that is off-grid as a power source from the stream that fast-moving on the property
Damn Jimmy, I’ve never seen so many things plugged in to the battery!!! Awesome video as always!!!! Subbed for life. 👍🏼
Thanks!!
Needs a bus bar to clean things up.
Jimmy any thoughts on doing a vid on low oil pressure as I have the same motor as you 5.3L truck has 346,000km still running strong
Great you got a mechman alternator
Im a little skeptical about your last alternator
Jimmy do you still have the truck, and if so what's your thoughts on it now? I'm planning do this conversion
hello watched this my gauge is doing the same thing I am putting out 13.8 volts and 65 amps at idle with air running with volt meter also going down should I just go with the larger alternator? asking for information
Great video as always! I intend to install that very alternator. I wanted to point out your oil pressure seemed really low...ie..definitely under 20 in video...I have a diesel (same year) and it runs about 40 at hot idle--slightly higher than 45 with ac on and maybe 50-55 cold start. I use 15-40 Rotella---but I've had GM gas engines same as yours and idle always seemed at least 30'sh. I had an 07 escalade at one point with AFM lifters that went bad at around 80k...clearly not the case with yours. Anyway thought I'd mention.
to what fuse did you tie the blue wire too?
How about the ground cables from your batt did you increase gauge ? Or just from alt to batt ?
get an aftermarket voltmeter when your working with an high output alternator you can keep a better eye on your voltage
I bought the 370a elite about 6 months ago, working great in my 06 Silverado, I run about 5.5k rms sound system, adding a 2nd battery trey would help u out a ton too, I've got two big agms under my hood.. ces makes great alts to and there a little cheaper.. adding 1/0 wire will also open up its full potential, I suggest using tinned 1/0 ofc copper and tinned copper lugs with adhesive lined heat shrink covering all exposed copper.. and when u use the hammer crimp put the crimp on the back of the lug, the crimper crimps it into a triangular shape, the way u did it will work but it smashes the wires..
The smaller pulley on these help a lot, and these h/o alts a made to handle big loads and work great in warm conditions
Excelent video sr. Can you make a video about exhaust titanium wrap to lower the temperature under the hood. You will be surprised ;)
Mechman makes an amazing product and those guys are awesome to deal with. Pricey, but worth it. There’s a reason why guys that have serious competition electronics of all kinds trust mechman.
My 11yo daughter like to work on my '94 suburban with me. She likes shiny new parts as well. She painted the transmission we swapped in last year in midnight-sparkle blue.
Now that you have a more than capable charging system, you should take advantage and put a nice amp to that Infinity component set. Heck I'd dedicate a good sound quality 4 channel amp to the components and a subwoofer with an amp for it too. 🤷♂️ Oh the possibilities...🤔
Hey 1Road, can you please let us know if you do have a electric fan system on your 2003 Suburban? If you dont, would you upgrade to it? If you do, can you provide the specs of the alternator (amps ar idle, etc)?
I got one of these alternators also works as advertised good power production
About time! LoL. Keep up the good work.
Dears
I have same issue with my car , once to change altarator need also change the bttarey ?
So do you still blow fuses or did the new alternator remedy that as well as your charge issues?
Another great video!! Contemplating swapping to electric fans on my '07 Suburban 1500 but didn't know there would be so much involved!!! Thanks a million for sharing your experience w. us. Now that I know it's gonna cost an arm & leg I'm still willing to do it but only now, Xtra expenses won't be a surprise and that will take the trial & error away a little bit. I also plan to add a 2nd battery as I will use the truck as an off-road explorer and small camper as well. That alternator will definitely worth the upgrade. ALSO: how is that 12V switch pwr connected in the fuse box? Thanks again!
Yeah I just need to know how the 12v switch is installed
What did the weak alternator do to your hot idle RPM? mine is low. It sits at 500 and at times 300. Not erratic.
But it drops also when loaded, for example when fans come on, turning the steering wheel especially...throttle body is clean.
I found that like on big trucks always use the cast brass ends on the positive cable. Flags have too much resistance for a full draw
Where did you tie in your harness for the ignition run wire? Got a mechman 370 amp going in a 1996 tahoe.
not sure if youve done a video on it but upgrading the flimsy factory grounds helps relieve a lot of stress on the system as well.
electrical fans work fine on the factory NNBS and NNNBS they have beefy 150 -185amp
MY factory High Voltage to 12V+ DC is 185amps or 2.3KW ( FULL OUTPUT AVAILABLE anytime) Tahoe Hybrid NNBS..
if you want to talk about alternator my is 120KW 3 Phase 330vAC
Now thats an alternator ( more like the generator and starter LOL!) I can power small neighborhood with that
Been struggling with my voltage too.. got a 160amp alternator still not working should've watch this video before spending money on that one .... buying this alternator includes the adaptor to the harness or do I have to request it?????
Does every high output alternator require u do all those changes and did u need a new drive belt
Did you have to replace the serpentine belt? I’m in the same boat running a 2k sound system on a 91 Chevy
Is this a upgrade to the 140A PowerMaster alternator?
Would highly recommend a northstar battery too, excellent American made agm car batteries that alot of sound system guys use too because you can draw so much on them without draining them.
Agree 100%. The Northstar will also do better with the higher charging voltage. I run over 3,000 watts RMS from a couple of Orion XTR amplifiers, and I use 2 Northstar AGM batteries and a 300 amp alternator. Voltage stays at 14 volts and I've never had a problem with the voltage, amperage, or charging system
Did you have issues with the battery not charging well before?
Will this alternator work in my 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7?
Will this work on my 1990 silverado k1500 5.7 ?
Does the battery play issues with the alternator vs cable size vs battery size.?
Excellent video, 600 bucks well spent
Oh yeah nice and shiny... That look of approval changes when she sees the $500+ charge in the CC... lol
May want to look in to the 99+ charging setup... The alt is only triggered to charge for first 5-10 minutes on cold startup and then drop off when battery is full. With my 06 Silverado it is normal to see it drop off from 14+ to mid 12s (the gauge is a little off, actual measurement shows it tops out around 14.1 and then drops down to 13.2-13.5).
I have run Mechman Alternators in 4 different vehicles. All perform perfectly - and most importantly - they are RELIABLE. I live in Phoenix at 115 degrees in the shade. Imagine the underhood temp. And these things still put out what they are RATED for. GREAT ALTERNATOR.
@Chris hey man I live in avondale and just purchased one for my 03 suburban that I just upgraded to e fans . do you know where I can get it installed and upgrade my wiring?? please let me know
@@jmunoz1414 Any auto shop can install an alternator including the Mechmans. The only problem is getting the larger gauge wiring done - most shops don't have 4 Gauge or larger wire available (I always use 1/0 Gauge) - Audio places (Audio Express, etc.) can do it and have that large gauge stuff always in stock.
Did you think about changing the pulley
Have you broiled out your radiator to have it at maximum performance.
hey jimmy where did get the alternator
Wish I could have seen how you hooked up that blue wire exactly
awesome video!!
that's great what a second battery also help
i just install a mechman alternator to my 2003 chevy trailblazer. the reason is because i have a flex a lite fan and a amplifier. i have never experience fuse burning or melting for my fan like you. but i did experience voltage drop. ever since i put the mechman alternator my voltage stays in the middle and it doesn't drop like it used to. i also did the big 3 upgrade when i install the alternator.
I have the same prob . What i found Chev shuts down the alt at idle . This 8s done in the pcm .
105 amp altenator on a camaro with the huge factory electric fan. plus after market audio and amps... never had any voltage issues even at hot idle. your altenator may have been on its way out already
What size belt do you have ?? Can you pleae reply asap im doing the same alternator but the belt is a pain in the ass to get!! Pls respond!!!
So if I am driving with both my high and low beams (yes I can), both my blowers, my radio blasting, honking my horn, hitting my brakes with my trailer, and domelight on, and dual electric fans at 70 amps, I will be good to go?
Thanks I was having the same issue with my car When I turn on my A/C now I know what to do.
You don't need a "250a" alternator. A stock ad244 off of a gmt800(which that mechman is) would be plenty
OK cool thanks. I'll trade that🤘
you have a regular battery?
Will it not blow you fuse sir Jimmy... Will it not cause fire to melt your electrical components? Whats the result does it work good in your car sir Jim. Pls advise joey yu Baguio City Phil's
I have a 2008 Silverado 5.3 crew cab lt all electric. And i have the same problem when i turn the ac to the max and the truck is in a stop light the truck begin to fail making a idle and the revolutions goes down and up. But when i set the ac fan to the minimun the truck get stable again.
Congrats on your new install. Certainly it should provide enough juice for all your electrics and more. I'd next take care of the low oil pressure at hot idle your truck showed as you described the voltage on the gauge. 20 PSI and below? I don't know. I'd be more at peace with 40 PSI or higher. Maybe a high pressure/high volume oil pump could solve this potential problem in-the-making.
It’s a gear driven oil pump, which is why at idle it shows low oil pressure.
????? i need to do this for my truck does any no were i can get everything for cheap and effective snug fit ????? 34inch rad
Nice job Jimmy...Yeah, there she is....
Years ago I bought an aftermarket ignition system that used a 15 amp fuse. I ended up having to buy a high(er) output alternator to make my ignition system work the right way. It was worth it, though.
I want tot do this same e-fan upgrade to my 95 Tahoe. However, a $600 alternator is just too much $$. Is there an alternator that would work for $300 or less?? Thank you for your excellent vids. Keep it up brother! :)
Sure. You can use the high output stock alternator. Might need a different belt or pulley. Go to a parts store that has staff that know what they're doing and you should be able to figure it out. Pretty sure 140amp alternator is an option for that truck.
If you’re converting a vehicle to electric fans upgrading your electrical system is a no-brainer. The best way to do this is by using an alternator from a similar vehicle that came equipped with e-fans and then upgrade both the charge wire and ground straps. A lot of HD alternators you can buy from the internet are junk (mechman makes good stuff). Adding high draw electrical accessories to a vehicle has to be accompanied by electrical system upgrades, otherwise you create headaches at best and a fire hazard at worst
Nice
Congrats
Well, with that sort of output... you could throw an inverter in there and run appliances... but why the brake light? I'm sorry if I'm being picky... dont mean to be... just wondering...
Good idea. But does it decrease the battery life or not ? I hope you could give the accurate answer.
Lead acid batteries live longer if kept close to a full charge. The amount of time spent below full charge is what degrades them. 12.6 volts or a little higher is what they like. If I see 13.19 I'm a very happy camper.
Wonder if you lost enough power to defeat the purpose of using the fans to save power
...the gains from electric fans are only really realized at highway speeds, where the forced air thru the grill should be sufficient to turn the fans off if they are properly setup. At city speeds, idle, traffic, etc the fans are there to prevent a overheating situation.
Sadly most that set up e-fans do not have them thermostatically controlled, thus they are drawing power all the time, same as a clutch type fan, even when it is not needed.
So what are you gonna try next when your fuses blow/melt?
Fuses blow because they're using too much amperage, so you just supply more amps?
You keep the voltage up. Higher voltage equals less current draw. The old alternator probably sat around 13.8 hot. This new one keeps the voltage up near 14.5 hot and has 100+ more amps available at all times. He won't melt fuses anymore.
@@catch22frubert : That makes less than 2 amp difference at 25 amps though. Less than 10% difference.
www.rapidtables.com/calc/electric/watt-volt-amp-calculator.html
Attention: when Voltage drops so does current. You said the voltage with the old alternator DROPPED and the current went up and fuses started popping. Use ohms law and figure it out. If voltage drops current drops as well, and the fuses cant "start blowing" !
ohms law amps = voltage
esistance. If the load pulls 10 amps at 14 volts and resistance is constant. When volts drop because you overloaded your alt system voltage drops lower than batt voltage. The load now pulls more amps from the battery than 10 amps. Fuses pop. Less volts more amps.
That 12v switched wire is to bypass the ecm controlled voltage sense wire. It provides full field voltage to the field windings at all times. You can do this with a stock alternator.
I did the same upgrade but the battery light doesnt stay on without this wire connected to a switched 12v, is it ok to run without the wire being connected?
So where to I connect the blue wire