How to Upgrade Your Charging System (Mechman Alternator) | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2018
- Upgrade your charging system by changing out your alternator. A lot of people like to add sound systems, lights, entertainment and other items to their vehicles. I see people upgrading their batteries and even upgrading the wiring. However the alternator seems to be overlooked quite often.
Upgrading your battery is great but when then engine is running, the alternator is what's running all the electrical components in your vehicle. Making sure your alternator can keep up with all the electrical demands of your equipment.
#Alternator #Battery #MechMan
www.mechman.com
Parts:
MechMan 250 Amp Elite Series Alternator for GM Trucks
8302250
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I am a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional 12 Volt Installer (MECP Certified), Business Management Graduate (KPU), with a Professional Driver's License and a genuine automotive enthusiast who loves working on vehicles and I want to share my experiences with you. The goal is to help other people who can hopefully learn from my unique outlook towards vehicles, experiences and working practices.
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How to Upgrade Your Charging System (Mechman Alternator) | AnthonyJ350
• How to Upgrade Your Ch...
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If anyone is looking for alternator solutions check out www.mechman.com.
What size would you recommend for a 2008 GMC Sierra SLE with off-road muffler and volant cold iar intake, mostly stock. With 2 small LEDs.
SirvAnthony what size of mechman battery would you recommend for my old Isuzu Bighorn 4jg2 3.1 model 90
My voltage get low when i turn on the AC Unit & Head lights
Can you pls advise me sir
joey yu
Baguio City
Phil's
Pls advise...
Sir Anthony just curious will it not over charge my Battery if i use mechman altenators higher amperes? Thanks for your time...
Messenger: joeyaranador
Great video,did you have to replace the belt on the smaller pulley on the alternator?I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe, looking for an alternator.
@@briankeith1007 The Mechman one I ordered allowed me to use the stock belt and I daily drive the truck with no issues.
Dude that alt looks super clean with that black finish. Another informative video, keep up the great work man!
Thanks! Ya it was totally worth paying a little extra for the black finish.
Awesome video! I left a comment on your other video two days ago and told you that I was running two of these and it's so awesome to see other people experience how amazing these alternators are
Thank you! Yes amazing performing alternators and great for daily driver abuse.
My vehicle is old enough it doesn't have one of those plugs (1998 GMC pick up truck) that regulates the voltage, I don't drive it as much as I used to, retired now. I was getting concerned the alternator wasn't working as good as it should so I drove it to a local auto parts store that offers load test and their meter claimed it was doing what it should be. So even though I would like to put a huge output alternator on it I guess I'll leave the one that's on there in place. Hopefully one day I'll get the 'big three' wiring done, anyway I like the way you did this video, from the everyday persons perspective. Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Ya I wanted to show people how certain aftermarket products can help their daily drivers.
your very first statement, you may have some horsepower loss that's not noticeable but to keep in mind. you earned a subscriber and a like! thank you so much for this video
Appreciate you subscribing!
That looks great! I sold my 06 Sierra, but my 06 Yukon has a 160 amp alternator stock. Since my truck is 100% stock I'll probably replace it with a rebuilt one from GM.
Try to find one off an Escalade or an HD truck that uses an alternator with a higher output.
Just got 2 mechman alternator 240v your video dose help going to be installing soon thanks
Nice! Thanks for watching!
I hope this fixes the issue I have with my sound system! I’m able to hear the engine noise and I hate that so much! I just placed an order for a 370AMP alternator from MechMan can’t wait to d this set up as well!🔥 looks good Boss!
You'll also want to run a ground from the head unit all the way to the ground of the new amplifier. 16 gauge wire will be good. Helps eliminate any ground loops in your system.
AnthonyJ350 thanks for the info!👌🏼👌🏼
@@AnthonyJ350 what is a ground loop ??
@@famousps1 did it work ??
Very informative video sir, a lot of people don't understand stand how important the alternator is when adding electronics. Am running 2 mechman elite 370 on my 05 Tahoe, with 3 xs power d3400 batteries
You definitely do with 2! Lol. What are you using for a regulator to control all of them?
Ya I wanted to grow awareness that you have to consider parts like this when you are adding more electrical components.
@@AnthonyJ350 one of the alts is self excited and the other has the factory 2pin connector
@@terrancedesormeauxjr2559 Ah ok. So one uses the factory voltage regulated system driving the factory equipment mainly and the other one picks up the slack for your audio/ aftermarket?
@@AnthonyJ350 I guess you can say that but all my batteries and alts are connected together. No isolators. Normal driving i see 14.6 and with system turned up(all the way) I see 13.4 normal then heavy bass songs it would drop to 13.1-12.9
When alts get hot its 15.4-15.7 then full tilt it drops to 13.5-13.3
Thank you for your knowledge you have helped me a lot . I have a 05 silver
Glad the video helped you!
Thanks bro your coverage was awesome peace
Thank you, glad you liked it!
nice alternator made by mechman & "veleo" aka SIEMENS AG nice !
Ya it's been serving me really well.
Great vid!
Thanks so much for watching!
Those Mechman Alternators are a great choice. They are designed and built from the ground up by a legit engineer. Large gauge wires are important.
Ya they're a legit upgrade over stock as far as durability goes as well.
@@AnthonyJ350 I have the big 3 upgrade done on my stock alternator already. 0 gauge wire throughout. Just waiting on my 370 amp mechman alternator. Hope this will help my audio system
@@drvictoria07 The alternator definitely will. What battery are you running?
@@AnthonyJ350 I'm running a super start AGM 750 CCA battery under the hood and a power cell 1800 in the back.
@@drvictoria07 Nice, I'm a Northstar fan myself.
DC Power 270 amp in my 7th gen swapped 03 Maxima a couple months ago. 14.9V all day long baby.
CORZER0 how do you get more than 14.4? And this is a serious question
Nice
If you're getting whine in your soundsystem, you could add some capacitance from the alternator output stud and ground. Also mover your power takeoffs from the stud to the battery itself would go a long ways towards supplying cleaner power. The battery is like a giant capacitor absorbing hash, whine, spikes noise etc.
Thanks for sharing!
Actually, the first thing I would look for is ground loops - lots of audio gear is chassis grounded and if mounted directly to your vehicle's chassis can induce ground loops. Isolate your equipment from any possibility of making electrical contact with the chassis would be the first thing I would recommend.
Check out Mercedes' charge on deceleration only system. Neat concept for all your stated efficiency reasons.
I'll look into that! I assume it helps slow the car down kind of how hybrids feel when you brake?
Would like to purchase a higher amp alternator but love the advice to run on thicker gauge wires
Thanks for watching!
Run skyhighcaraudio 0 gauge make sure it's ofc oxygen free copper
Great video (I also viewed your other video from April 10, 2018 - "Don't make this wiring mistake Regulated Voltage Control"), which appeared to be made before you installed the Mechman alternator. At first, I was going to follow your recommendations, and those of others, to do the big 3 upgrade. However, after seeing this video, speaking to Mechman tech, and researching a little more I decided to follow the recommendations regarding the RVC method. I have a few questions, I am hoping you can provide some advise, so I can get clarification for my install. In this video (at 4:22) you reference the junction point (which appears to be the plastic housing for the positive wires, originating at battery). I am not sure where the large gauge wire terminates in this junction box, but the stock factory wire splits off the large gauge wire and goes to the charging stud of the stock alternator. When I install the mechman alternator (mine is a 320 amp, so I am using 1/0 welding wire)...am I going to run two wires from my alternator like you did - one from alternator to this junction point (in my case 1/0 wire), then a second from alternator to positive terminal of battery (which will be fused with about a 350 amp inline fuse). Or do I just use the latter option by itself, and not do the second wire to the junction box. I am confused about the current flow the way you have it set up in your video with the two wires. Can you clarify or give a recommendation for my install. Any info is much appreciated.
I have two 4 ga wires to up the amperage capacity coming out of the alternator.
After installing my high output alternator my car went through a short re-learn. Also, that's due to my battery being disconnected for most of the afternoon. everything seems stabilized now.
Right on, glad to hear it's working! Can you follow up in a couple weeks and let us know how it's working?
Great video man, I have been going through a few of them, I like that you're super informative!
I have a 2013 Tahoe, the battery is on the passenger side, but still have the load sensor on the Neg terminal.
As for the Big 3 that I plan to do:
+alt stud / +batt terminal (0awg)
Alt bracket, through load sensor / neg batt terminal (4awg)
Neg batt terminal, through load sensor / frame (4awg)
Does this sound right?
Should there be a frame / block?
Do you recommend different size wire than I listed?
Thanks!
Looks good to me, let me know it works
what if you have 2 batteries? 2012 sierra 1 battery in engine bay 2nd in rear sub enclosure, do I have to run it through load sensor or is it ok just connected to main front battery. thanks
very informative video! I am considering buying that exact alternator for my 06 Silverado SS. Question, I know I have to run a new 1/0 negative thru the loop sensor the the alt, and new 1/0 positive to the battery, but what should I run to the junction box? 4 gauge? Unless I missed that in your video of course lol
Minimum 4, just depends on the output of the alternator. Thicker is always better.
What alternator should i use for 2000 watts got crazy voltage drop on a 140 amp alternator on 4 15s and 2 jl audio 1000/1 want a alt that will make me stay at 14 voltage with no or very little voltage drop
I would look into this alternator www.mechman.com/alternators/buick/rainier/5-3l/2004-2006/e-series-370-amp-billet-gm-truck/
And also make sure you update all the grounds from battery to frame, engine and body. Also clean and update these grounds ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
hi great job dude pls tell is it possible to get 220 volts from car alternator.actually I want to use this alternator as a generator to supply home .My car is parked in garage no use of car electric supply.
Hmmmm I would just buy a Honda generator for that application.
Also if i decide to go to a higher amp mechman could i use the stock pulley on that alternator or would I have to go with a shorter drive belt?
The Mechman will come equipped with the appropriate pulley
i have a 04 Tahoe, Im installing a 250 amp alternator from Mechman since I have a sound system (2000 watts RMS) any ideas on how to do the big 3 upgrade on it ? I was thinking Positive 0 gauge wire from the alternator to the red battery terminal casing for jump starting (since my 0 gauge to my Amp is bolted there) and a negative 0 gauge wire from the alternator casing to the ground strap stud located near the firewall . Any suggestions on how to make this better ? Any suggestions will help:) also that regulator you showed in the video I couldn’t find.
2004 doesn't use the RVC system so don't worry about the clamp. I would add a 0 gauge from negative batter to the alternator bracket. You should see two 10MM bolts on the side of it you can bolt on two. You can also go from the alternator bracket back to frame.
I have just watched your video and I only have one question, Could you please inform me where can I find an instrument cluster that goes to 200 mph? At this point with my truck will hit 120 mph in 2nd gear if I'm being mean to it. Would really appreciate your help in pointing me in the right direction thank you.
Never seen one yet. I'm in Canada so mine is showing 200KM per hour. You might want to go with an auxiliary gauge from Autometer.
if i change alternetor and work the same battrey 3 optima its good pls?? or damage somthing?? and where can i buy alt for peugeot 306 d turbo
I would look into the brand NorthStar for a battery.
Did you leave in the 2 gauge welding wire? I'm going to install mechman 250 amp alt. and I have a bunch of 2 gauge weld wire laying around wondering if that is big enough or if I really need buy and use the 1 gauge? and why do you double up on the 2 gauge wire?
It's 4 gauge, so I doubled up for extra capacity.
Cam u please expand on the clamp meter grounding portion? As far as do u need a new one? How much wire can u get through it? And an overall on this subject. I can't find anything on this.
This video should help explain ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
i just installed a mechmann (remanufactured) on my blazer 2002 V6 Vortex 4.3L the strange thing is my Sense cable, when i connect it. it won't load anything? but when i dont connect it 't loads over 18V way to high!!! do you maybe have a solution or an opinion?
the sense cable is connected to the positive side of the battery
the block is connected to the battery with a 2/0 gauge
also all + wires are upgraded to 2/0 gauge
thanks already
I would call Mechman about a situation like that.
I noticed that the Mechman pulley was slightly smaller than the oem but I used the same belt. Did you do the same?
Yup, I kept everything the same, no issues. I've accelerated hard a bunch of times and no issues with the belt.
I just put a elite 370a in this morning.. did a lot for my 3k system.. I also have the gm 2 pin plug on my 2006 Silverado..
do u know if the 91102R external voltage regulator works on the gm 2 pin plug alternators, it needs field and ground for hookup.. the 91102R is designed for 2 pin crystler vehicles..
I'm just not sure if it's compatible with the gm 2 pin alts, might need a different internal regulator.. I might switch my alt to the internal 4pin regulator and use the digital mechman voltage reg.. that thing looks awesome, I just don't want any error codes on my message center in my dash cluster..
either way hooked up stock it holds voltage right st 14.4v all day long, it's starts around 15.2v then sits at 14.4.. I've got 2 yellow top optimas.. might get xs power d3100 eventually also
That I'm not sure, you would have to contact Mechman.
Does replacing the stock alternator with a 400amp alternator harm any vehicle wires or electrical components? Like fry cables make electrical things run hotter etc etc.Id like to know before i buy one for my 2002 Chevy Blazer Xtreme 4.3 Vortec. Thank You
You have to make the wiring from the alternator to the battery thicker in correlation to the alternators output.
I know its a small thing but that 2 zero wire is referred to as a 2 Aut. That zero with a slash through it is an aut. :) Jfyi. Good vid!!
Doesn't it depend on the industry how you refer to it as? Thanks for your input though.
It's pretty much standard throughout all. Mechanical, Electrical, Electronics, Plumbing. As far as I know it's standard terminology in the scientific community also.
@@mrmemoe123 I agree that the term is correct. Just in car audio most people say "gauge". If you read this article you can see both expressions of the term are used.
www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html
Being that gm has the alternator voltage regulator will the high output alternator help?
I have 1500 watt system. My voltage drops really low when the truck (2017 GMC Sierra) dials back the voltage. If I add the alternator will the voltage stabilize even if the regulator tells it to dial back? I heard you say external voltage regulator, will that override when the truck is telling it to dial back?
Yes the external regulator will override the factory regulator. My 5 channel is 1,000 watts RMS and the high output alternator with the factory programming works perfectly fine.
My 2018 Ram Promaster City van's OEM alternator is 160a has gone bad and only putting out 12.5v. There is a lot of power demand on my van. I run a giant battery 155ah AGM starter battery and 2000 watt inverter + 12v fans and LED lights and other appliances overnight. I want to put in a 320a after market high amp alternator, but worry about the computer and affecting gas mileage. Should worry the battery fuse to my alternator is only 150a. Any pully or adapter changes if manuf claims it will fit?
I would put in a secondary battery. Make them both Northstar. Upgrade the grounds if you can and try that first.
I'm about to purchase a 250a mechman to pair with a XS power D3400 along with a big 3 upgrade. Will this take care of any distortion I'm hearing through my door speakers? Mind you none of these upgrades have been installed yet
It's a great starting point for building up your foundation. You'll also want to make sure the cab is well grounded as well to the battery. The next step is to put in sound deadening to give the speakers a good mounting foundation.
So you have 2 power runs on your Alt what are those? How did you fit the 1 gauge through the sensor ring
Both wires feed the battery, one to the top post the other to the side post. Because my alternator can put out up to 250 amps I wanted to make sure the wire to the battery didn't go past capacity. For the clamp I have 2 runs of 4 gauge going through it.
My 2007 silverado 1500 new new body style (not classic) has 2 red thicker then stock cables on the positive side that goes to a fuse on the firewall that says 175 Amp then out to the alternator I don't see a ground hooked up to my stock alternator I'm wanting to upgrade to the 250 elite what would I need to replace as in wiring? It's a little different then your application.
You'll want to replace the factory wire with 0 gauge but you'll have to upgrade the fusable link to match the new alternator output.
Man some of that Spanish music that’s mixed with that epicenter can pull more amps and produce more bass than regular rap music or other music man. Awesome setup! I’m needing to do the same on my 2018 Silverado. I’m running a sundown 2000d mono block and I’m pushing 4 kicker l78 subs. Two alone is awesome but I don’t want to run the other two till I get my electrical right. My bolts drop waaaayyyyy down with the amp barely turned up and just two going
Do you have 1 battery or 2?
@@AnthonyJ350 stock everything boss one battery only. Any suggestions would be very appreciated 👌🏽
@@cotx79 I would change the factory batter to a NorthStar. Upgrade the grounds and clean the factory ground and put dielectric grease to help protect them. Also consider adding a second NorthStar to the system later on.
I have an alternator just like that and I am planning on putting it on a vehicle but the harness isn't matching...can I just use the yellow pigtail to the ignition switch and cut the blue wire and give it straight 12 v????
You need to call Mechman on that one
Awesome alternator and info. I upgraded my alternator yesterday to 253 amps. I'm getting a humming noise on my subs when theres no volume. How can I fix this? 👊👍😎
Check the ground on the amplifier, also the plug wires might be old and need to be changed.
Better ground or negative connection should help
I have the same problem your gang is turn up way too much and you're settings are messed up just to just everything and you should be fine.. FYI just check all your ground points and you're terminals
Great video I upgraded to a high out put alternator and the mechanic who installed it said I didn’t need to upgrade the wires Needless to say the car kept dying out lights wouldn’t work and he tried to say it was a bad alternator... smh
Your wiring has to be able to keep up with the output of the alternator.
Thank you!
Would I need to upgrade my battery or add a second battery when adding an aftermarket alt
I would upgrade the battery to Odyssey, and upgrade the main power line from alternator to battery and all the grounds from engine to chassis and battery.
So you can fit a 0 gauge wire thru that factory negative battery sensor?
Yes but you'll have to probably removed the factory ground wire to make it fit.
Hello great video where do you purchase this alt. and how much are they i have 2011 Tahoe LS i gonna install sound system later on.
Hi there, thanks for watching! I contacted Mechman and purchased it directly from them. They were super helpful I'm finding the alternator to suite my needs and I daily drive the truck.
Hi...if im upgrading my alternator...do i have to replace my charging fuse to a higher amp?
Best thing to do is upgrade the power wire (with a fuse) from the alternator and the grounds. I typically add on to the existing system to help with the additional amperage.
@@AnthonyJ350 tq for the reply and sharing...im converting belt ac to an electric one...will be taking a lot of amps...setting up a parallel 12v battery and an upgraded alt...hope the new alt will be enough...thanks again
Wassup man this video is very informative. Although I’m having a issue with my truck. I recently upgraded my 105 amp alternator to a 220 amp alternator and I’m still dropping so much voltage when I play music with my subs. Any ideas of may be the cause of this? I already did a big 3 upgrade
These 2 videos might help ruclips.net/video/8NRajpYXGb4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
Could you run a longer bolt through alt mount and put your ground on the back side with a nut? Or is it better to put ground on side where you have it?
Do both. It's called a big for & it's actually worth it to add that extra ground.
You could if you find an appropriate bolt.
How do you connect the negative wire from amp to the negative load you speak about at 5:30?
If you connect your amp ground to chassis (I.e. 12" cable). If you decide to run a long ground and hook it up straight to the battery, you'll want to pass it through the sensor.
Not gonna lie, the DR44G is pretty powerful for a stock alt, but those mechman look awesome
Both are good units for sure. I do like the colour options from Mechman.
Hi, so I finally got the 250 elite alt this past week, for a 2005 4.8l that has the DR44G, kind of similar to your truck when it was stock. So did you leave it like that with the 2 gauge grounds going thru the sensor, or did you upgrade to a single 0 wire like they suggest? I'm not sure yet if I should run it like you have here (which my gut tells me to do), or if I should get a single 0 wire and their 2pin adapter/bypass dongle thingy for the check engine light issue. Any suggestions?
Love your channel by the way. I'm learning a lot from your videos. Thank you!
@@ByGraceThroughFaith777 I had not issues with the charging system the way I had it. It was an educated guess it would work fine.
So I'm hearing conflicting information. If I increase my alternator to say 150 or 200 and my car only outputs 120 for my alternator do I need to change my fuses, and if so what do I do for the fuse am I wiring something else? Is this something I can do or is it better I get a mechanic to do it to save myself the headache. Thank you.
Get an experience car stereo shop to do the job.
Their website states “This unit comes equipped with a smaller 1.75 inch diameter alternator pulley, and will require a slightly shorter drive belt for proper belt tension” did you have to replace your drive belt, and if yes do you have a reference. Also, these alt are rated to 20k rpm due to the smaller pulley, do you know the safe rpm range for the truck before pushing the alt to its max? I live in a hilly area and sometimes pull a trailer. I dont want to blow a $600 alternator. Thanks
I just run the stock belt on the alternator I have. I had the truck dyno tuned with the alternator equipped and the truck was pushed to 6,500RPM, no issues with the alternator yet.
Question if you fuse (300amp fuse) your positive cable from your Alt to yout Battery terminal. Do you still need to ground the alternator?
I would still run a 0 gauge wire from the alternator casing the battery if you plan to pull that much amperage.
@@AnthonyJ350 Will do, thanks alot bud. Have a great weekend.
@@AnthonyJ350 I thought grounding alternator case to frame and battery - to frame is better than alt case to battery?
What do I do if my car is brand new and no one makes aftermarket alts for it yet? I drive a 2021 Toyota Camry Xse 2.5L
Upgrade the grounds is the best thing you can do.
How has the finish held up so far? I know the performance is top notch, no doubt... but is it still a beaut to look at???
So far so good, even got a little mud on it in another video. So far it's fantastic in a daily driver application.
AnthonyJ350 i have a 05 Chevy Tahoe 2WD its my daily driver but its also my Highway Vehicle because i travel so frequently i want to install dual eoectric fans w/ a tri flow radiator I believe this application will benefit me. Does your alternator have a model number i can look up for the exact part?
@@ipalmbeachlifestyle8272 Yup, the part number is in the description.
I've put a 200 amp alternator in my truck and I'm see my voltage meter drop down to what seems like 11 on my gauge only when I'm in idle though, is this a normal thing for these gm trucks with higher amp alternators
It always drops to 11 when idling?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes maybe it's the battery but as soon as I push the gas pedal it goes back up
@@kurtissoosay1239 my 07 Yukon does the same, I replaced the factory alternator with 190 Amp alternator, new 900 cca battery and upgraded 0 gage cables, still does it... my buddy is a gm tech says it's normal for these trucks.
i know this is a 4 year old video but, what type of terminals did you use for your battery?
The top post I used Toyota battery terminals because they're durable and have studs that are easy to attach to. The side post, high quality brass side terminals.
Hey man maybe you can help me out. My 2001 GMC Sierra 5.3L has been having some issues I think related to the alternator. I have a sound system in the truck been working great for years now but ever since 2 weeks ago the amps have been turning off and back on.. when the truck is off the battery runs the amps fine no shut offs. I grabbed my multi meter and the voltage at the battery while the truck is off is 12.25v - 12.4v. While running it's charging sporadically from like 3v to 14v.. not a steady number just jumps all over the place. Checked my multi meter it's fine, is my alternator going out? Voltage regulator dying you think? Should I upgrade to a 130a from the 105a alt? Or should I go to 250a? Any help would be appreciated. Fyi inside the cab on the gauge it sometimes dips to about 9v then up to 13v then to 15v then back down to 13v.. kinda all over the place.
My truck had loose connection from being dirty. clean and tighten battery connections. might work.
make sure your battery is bolted down too. if loose the postive sidepost could touch the fender creating a short as you bounce down the road.
Check the battery connections and check the grounds.
If I install a smaller pullie that means more amps output?
Yes it will spool up more. Alternators have a spec sheet at what RPM they put out maximum output.
Was there a fusible link in the alternator wire that connects to battery?
You can purchase one from Mechman or your local install shop.
I have a 2012 Camry and in need of a higher output alternator and it’s very hard to find one. What’s the website or what do you recommend amperage wise. Right now I have a 100 amp but I found a 250amp from power bastards and from what I hear THEYRE pretty good. Not sure. Thanks for the help
Mechman doesn't have anything available?
Find a reputable local alternator rebuild shop and have them build what you want if no aftermarket is available.
@@tmurph247 mechman has a 270 for me. I just am waiting to get it for now till kicker comes out with their SoloX subs: since I wrote that I’ve learned a lot and once those SoloX comes out I’ll have the mechman ready and should be in good shape: I’ve tried the rebuild places and they all say they couldn’t. So mechman can do me a custom 270 with the pulley and smd will engrave it for me
🔴 Are all things about this upgrade basically the same for 07-14 chevy avalanche❓
Pretty much, you'll also want to watch this important grounding video.
ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
And you'll want to watch my video on RVC charging systems ruclips.net/video/8NRajpYXGb4/видео.html
Did u have to fuse the main power wire ?
It's a good idea to.
Hey how are you doing today ? I was checking out your video and I see where you was showing that you have to connect the ground wire to the truck so that it can read the alternator voltage what I want to know is dose a 2001 Tahoe has to be grounded in the same or not
Hi there, I don't think the 2001 GM Trucks have the RVC system so you don't have to worry about it.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank You very much
@@derekpickens148 Thanks for watching
Where can I get some good quality welding cable
We get ours from a local general/ supply store called Princess Auto.
How did you determine the amount of power for the alternator? And on that note for a main vehicle battery?
I took the factory alternator rating, then added up the peak amp draw of my aftermarket gear. Added the two numbers together to figure out roughly how much output I want from the aftermarket alternator.
@@AnthonyJ350 Do alternator amp hours matter in this calculation?
@@raba650 I didn't factor that in
The stator windings are not bare copper, it's enamel coated, most of the output studs are tinted copper to avoid tarnish and oxidation that can cause resistance as well as the 10mm nut
Thanks for your input, I wish the coating last longer because the copper turns very dark and looks similar to unprotected wire at the battery.
@@AnthonyJ350 it's a clear coating that insulates the windings. When it fails the alternator would have an internal short
I recently upgraded my alternator to a 220 amp db alternator and my voltage on my dad is at 14 or a little above but when my Efans kick in and my ac blower motor is on it drops down to almost 10 volts on the dash at idle but when I'm driving it's at 14 or just a bit under what can I do to maintain it at 13.8 or higher itl fluctuate at idle and when i rev it a bit it shoots up and my dash light get brighter what would you recommend
External voltage regulator would be your best option.
@@AnthonyJ350 were would you recommend me getting it from and do you have a video on how to install it also on you channel
@@compagordo9134 The manufacturer of your alternator should make them.
Do anyone know the pulley nut size on mechman alts. Im changing my pulley and i had to cut the old nut cuz the impact destroyed in . Thanks
I would contact Mechman
How big of a system would i need for me to need a voltage regulator, and does mecman make a good one?
I would say if you're around the 2,000 watt rms range you really have to consider a bigger alternator and possibly and external regulator.
Start with the big 3 because you need a good foundation to handle the new alternator.
@@AnthonyJ350 where do i get the regulator, and whats the best kind for me. ?
@@chrisnas1483 I would contact Mechman tech support. I called them with my application and they steered me to the proper product. They're very friendly and knowledgeable.
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks.
@@AnthonyJ350 does Mechman offer an external regulator for these alternators?
What size belt u running?
Stock length that came on the truck
Ok I got a question it's not enough horsepower to notice ? What if your putting one on a 4 cylinder pickup?
I don't think it's as much when your A/C kicks on. I suppose it depends on how big of an alternator you put on and what kind of draw it's going to experience.
How can I get one for my 2014 Mustang V6 3.7?
Best thing to do is contact Mechman directly. I recommend phoning in, they were able to answer all my questions and help me pick the right alternator for my application.
Is the 250 amp perfect for some off road lights, winch, and a mild sound system?
I think it would work well. I highly recommend adding a second battery for your application.
@@AnthonyJ350 if i use only one battery then i use mechman or autotech 320 amp alternator?
@@seangowan7441 You want dual batteries for the extra reserve capacity.
Is the alternator still working?
Yup, works great. Daily drive it and my commute is about 25 min one way.
Is there a Canadian distributor for mechman? Looking to do a 320 or 370a high output on my 2015 5.3 for a stereo. I’m in the same area as you.
I don't know, I ordered it directly from Mechman.
@@AnthonyJ350 mind me asking how much shipping etc cost? Did you have to pay duty fees etc? If so how much?
@@BBRRAAAAAAPP I paid duty but I don't remember any of the figures
@@AnthonyJ350 alright thanks for the info I appreciate it.
I know this is late in the game… But did you remove the fusible link between the alternator and the original connecting point where you would jumpstart the car In other words the red box. That small wire that you were holding your hand I believe was a fusible link. so my question was did you remove that and just replace it with a larger gauge wire. Thanks
You can remove it, but it's highly recommend you install an inline fuse afterwards.
@@AnthonyJ350 Did you replace that original black alternator cable to the red box with a fusible link Or just put a 1 foot zero gauge wire there?
@@stevenm.hollis4429 I have two new runs of 4 gauage to the fusable link.
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks!
ANTHONY….HOW DID YOU GET THE FACTORY POWER WIRE LOOSE FROM THE RED BOX…? Mine is so Tight….I feel it will break if I pull too hard ? Hate to spray it with break free ? Wish you had showed the whole process.
Just used a wrench, didn't think it was a big deal removing it. Is yours corroded?
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks for the reply… ya the red box connection looks a little crusted and could use a wire brush… but that Nut is crazy tight… whole box twists.. i want to put a 2 gauge there but so far my upgrades are working … thanks for the Vid.. i will attack it again
@@rayn3038 Spray it with some penetrating lube and disconnect the negative terminal before working on it
Can i take out the original charging wire and upgrade to 4 gauge if I have a stock alternator on my 04 tahoe?
If it's just the stock alternator yes. If you go with one like this, it'll have to be 0 gauge.
@@AnthonyJ350 alright man thanks Cz I seen another vid where they say the charging wire is fused or something like that just wanted to make sure
@@pene7601 There is a fusible link. It is a good idea to install a large fuse in line.
@@AnthonyJ350 yeah I put a fuse in it
@@pene7601 You're all good then
You my friend. Answered my question about if my 07 is capable of charging an agm battery. It has the fluctuating current based on load and the red box and that other regulator thing haha. Verbage is beyond me. I'm looking at doing mechman and big 3 upgrade as I've done the ls1 conversion on my lh6 and I tow a camper with it and I've noticed issues with my power amp output on highway driving dims my lights and stereo. I just need to find the right alternator and big 3 wire setup. I just have the stock bose system but plan on upgrading to the rockford fosgate system here soon in the next couple months.
250 amp Mechman should be fine. How big is your system?
@@AnthonyJ350 not too high. Going to go with around 1200 sub and the 4 pack of 6.5s that are 800 watt total. So prolly stock would work but it's a 145 amp. I have yet to get the system as im figuring electrical out first. But I do have a tuner, electronic brake controller, inverter to turn my generator over when the pull start is a pain. And I have a mobile welding unit that runs on 120 outlet for repairs to my stuff and others stuff. So its kinda getting prepped for when I do oval track. Trying to stay around 150 hp more than stock and no more. So around 500hp and 600tq. But set for towing and daily driving. Sorry for long description lol
@@AnthonyJ350 I also have the 2 pin gm alternator connection. Dr44 alternator. Not sure if I can currently properly charge agm batteries or not
@@ozzynomicon2817 A stock 160 amp AC Delco alternator would work. Highly recommend a dual battery setup.
@@AnthonyJ350 with the dr44 alternator 2 battery setup. What would you recommend me getting? Idk if I'm able to run agm batteries or not but I want a good battery and money isn't an issue. Which is why I was looking at the mechman alts
Did you have to get a bigger belt
No, this unit had the stock pulley size so the stock belt works fine.
baterry cables you have. are?
4 gauge, put it together in my shop.
home made. 💪
Hey I just bought one for a 17 dodge SRT charger. It is reading at 11.7 to 13 volts and is causing the battery light to turn on the dash. Why is it doing that?
Are all the battery connections tight? Has the battery been tested outside of the vehicle?
The battery is new and all connections are tight on battery
@@mrrealegeno7004 Need to scan it with a scan tool to help verify what the alternator is doing
@@mrrealegeno7004 battery to chassis connection is tight? Grounds to motor are tight?
I will have to check those connections. Question. Will i damage the car if i drive it like this?
Only the negative ground cable needs to go through the rvc sensor. The engine ground or alternator ground wires don't need to go through the sensor.
That's correct
meaning ground from alternator to battery?
Did you use a smaller belt?
Nope, factory size on this one.
@@AnthonyJ350 appreciate it
@@Titoo.1 You're welcome
Do we keep the factory positive wire and just add to it.??
I just add to it. You can replace it if you choose.
@@AnthonyJ350 what do u mean add to it?
@@traviscrowe5469 You leave the factory wire and add another one.
@@AnthonyJ350 I’m lost lol
@@AnthonyJ350 I got a 6k watt system and I just bought a 400 amp mechman alternator for my 03 Chevy avalanche. I’m about to do the big three and I’m not gonna keep that puny little 10 gauge on my alternator
200 on the dash?
It's in Kilometres, I'm in Canada.
I have a high output alternator but I just don't know how to bypass the factory ground so I can get the best performance from my alternator
What kind of vehicle?
@@AnthonyJ350 2008 escalade
@@jmg5155 That one is tough because there's no clearance in the clamp. You would just have to replace the factory ground with a better quality cable and run it straight to the alternator casing or bracket.
@@AnthonyJ350 so just leave the original negative cable in place and just add a zero gauge negative from battery to alternator bracket post..?
@@AnthonyJ350 the zero gauge barely fit
Were can I find alternator upgrade
Www.mechman.com
mechman doesn't make one for the s2000.
Thank you for sharing this video. I noticed that you are using the North Star battery and it is a bad battery. It was not made for cars, as it is a lot of problems. I have had a previous experience with the North Star battery and it was a bad experience.
How many Northstar batteries do you have experience with? I own 4 that are in service for our personal vehicle and I know 5 other close friends that run them. One of the batteries is in a dump trailer. They all perform well, and I recently deep cycled 2 while we were away on a month long trip and brought them back to life.
Can you tell us what the consistent problems are in the design or application of these batteries?
AnthonyJ350Do not bear the heat, we have very hot weather in the summer and very cold in the winter, and I advised my friends to use North Star Battery, meaning my friends and I have almost 20 cars with the same problems and the solution was to change the North Star batteries, the warranty we have two years and when the warranty ends, the problems start, they are very expensive and I can use Battery lasts two years, a quarter of the amount
@@fahadalwheibi760 Your replacement time seems lower. So you have 20 cars all outfitted with Northstar batteries? Are these vehicles driven daily?
@@fahadalwheibi760 What area are you in?
So, I thought about this and I know I asked you about you the fuse before, (hear me out) - Wouldn't it be more advantageous to remove the original charge wire (8 gauge fuselink) from the alt to the red box and put it behind the new inline fuse (on the 1/0awg cable)? You could add a 1/0 from the battery going to the positive Red Box, which attaches to the starter. This way, you have one 1/0 cable from the alternator with an inline fuse going to the battery and everything else going from there, ie fuse box and starter. This is actually how my diesel step up is.
Your thoughts.....
Cheers!
You could. Depends what your new fuse holder mount looks like. Is there a fusible link on each of your batteries at the positive terminals?
@@AnthonyJ350 It's an ANL Fuse mounted to the fuse box. Attached from the Alternator and running to the pos battery terminal. Was going to eliminate the charge wire (original) from the alt to the red junction box and run a 0 gauge from the pos battery terminal to the red junction box instead. That way there is one fuse link (ANL 350amp fuse) from the 320amp Mechman alternator to the pos battery terminal.
What's the price difference?
It was like $100ish difference at the time, totally worth getting this model.
Have you noticed better fuel economy with the mechman alternator?
It seemed to be about the exact same. Nothing you can notice better or worse.
@@AnthonyJ350 Maybe if i got a 320, 370 or 400 amp?
@@seangowan7441 You're fuel economy might get worse and you have to update your wiring. If you're trying to get better fuel economy, may I suggest accelerating slower?
@@AnthonyJ350 i do.
@@seangowan7441 Did you upgrade all the grounds of the charging system? That would be really beneficial for everything working better.
Should've measured the current before/after to compare
Yaaa I know. But trust me, it's way better than it was before. Mainly my sound system is performing better.
any other companies that makes upgraded charging system alternators?
DC, singer, power bastards, Ohio generator, a few more.. there's like 5 that are all very good.. there pricy, but once you run a high output alternator you won't go back.. I installed my first one today, a mechman 370a elite (black) and it looks great.. and a beast, I don't think there are any much bigger then the 370, does 200+ amps at idle, runs at 14.4v after its hot
DC, singer, power bastards, Ohio generator, a few more.. there's like 5 that are all very good.. there pricy, but once you run a high output alternator you won't go back.. I installed my first one today, a mechman 370a elite (black) and it looks great.. and a beast, I don't think there are any much bigger then the 370, does 200+ amps at idle, runs at 14.4v after its hot all day
This is the only one!
Antony, that wire that you showed 13:33 is not just a wire, but an 80 Amp fusible link. I did exactly the same that you have done, but then decided to put that fusible link back, as it is not a good idea to install wires instead of fuses. You need to install a High Amp fuse instead of that link.
Thanks for the feedback!
Kilometers?
Yes, the truck is Canadian.
@@AnthonyJ350 Kinda freaked me out 😂😂😂👍🏾
....you may consider a 2nd battery / in parallel with the original...using an RV battery diodes isolator......identical batteries...
Thanks for the tip!