The BIG 3 Upgrade Install - Improve your Car's Electrical and Charging System
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- Опубликовано: 11 дек 2018
- This is an awesome upgrade that most of us have been in need of for some time! Follow along as I upgrade all the power cables and battery terminals on my 1998 Jeep Cherokee using USA made components from Jeep Cables.
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This product is meant for entertainment purposes only. Your mileage may vary. Do not try this at home. Void where prohibited. Some assembly required. For off-road use only. Slippery when wet. Batteries not included. Do not use while operating a motor vehicle, heavy equipment, cherokee XJ, wrangler TJ, wrangler JK, or any Jeep vehicle, especially the newer Fiat ones. How-to videos may be too intense for some viewers and children under 30 years of age. Please remain seated until the 4x4 ride has come to a complete stop. Studies have shown viewing these videos causes increased cancer risks in laboratory test people. I am not a professional, I have no training, I'm not even particularly good at horse whispering. Don't believe everything that you know. Please keep your hands in the vehicle at all times. Do not tap on glass. Do not eat anything that has been on the floor for more than 3 days. Keep your hands to yourself. Not to be taken internally. Reproduction strictly prohibited. Driver does not carry cash. Objects in Bleepinjeep mirrors may be farther than they appear.
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Isn't there a reason why the cable from the head bolt to the firewall braided?
It's very close to the header and my guess would be that the factory used a braided wire just because of its proximity to it. Insulation could melt or catch fire. The replacement cables are longer in this kit and it was easy to route the cable so that it's plenty far enough away from the header. No issue.
not sure but, I believe it is to help with grounding out RF noise. Supposedly RF prefers the braided strap to cable. probably won't be an issue unless you are putting in sensitive comm radios, and in my experience, the RF from the fuel pump was more of an issue than RF from the ignition.
Braided cable that's open like that is always a fuseable link, I thought.
The braided cable is specifically used in that location to reduce RF interference.
no entiendo
I did the same thing pretty much but made my own cables , and used one of the old cables to whip the leaf blower guys .
Installed these back in September, didn’t notice a huge difference but the jeep def seems smoother and it’s a huge piece of mind.
Nice install video Tim , I will look into these for my TJ . Believe it or not my TJ still has the factory cables from 2003 and are just fine , however I am going to be rebuilding the 4.0 next spring and will change the cables out at the same time. Thank you for posting this. Take care .
Now I want that headlight harness eval! :) Put the upgrade cables on mine a while ago. Nice piece of mind.
JUST CAME ACROSS THIS WOW!!! great stuff, I just happen to be redoing all the motor wiers on my 1986 RV!! great timming
The green alternator wire is called a fusible link wire. Except the link often caught fire instead of blowing. Then the auto industry ran fiberglass cloth tubing over them, but they still caught fire. Starting in the 80's, they went to real battery fuses, like the ANL fuse, located on or at the battery. Battery fuses are a special design to blow safely but quickly.
I did a Jeepcables kit on my XJ about a year ago with great results! On my 95 the PDC is a bit different and you end up pulling the two main fuses out of the PDC as they get replaced by the ANL fuse. When I emailed the owner of Jeepcables with some questions he responded very quickly. Awesome product!
Hello.
Just got the kit.
I also have a 95.
What question did you have?
I got the addendum sheet that explains the extra steps.
I wish you had a video of that and the starter wiring. Cause my 94 has a bracket that goes over the starter. So it pulled both wiring off the starter instead of just the one that runs to the battery and im stuck on what to do
Those cables look awesome. Looks to be an amazing upgrade
I made my own out of 1/0 welding cable and soldered the ends on. Got everything for well under $100.
Not everyone wants to make their own, so it's good that someone is making a kit.
Josh B yea for about the same price
I did this to mine after a long period of those crappy aftermarket exposed wire lead terminals from Walmart. WOW. that was my first reaction. its been a long while now since i did the swap and i haven't had any electrical issues of any kind. Really great product. I would put it as one of my first mods to any older car.
The alternator power cable has a fusible link. It's a slightly smaller wire soldered in and it's designed to melt at whatever voltage. Personally I love what you did and got it a real fuse.
You guys @ BleepinJeep are terrific! I wish you lived close by (CT). Thanks for all of these informative vids! 👍🏼
i sand back the paint where the bolt goes that way you dont just rely on the threads of the bolt to conduct electricity.
I just replaced the terminals/ends of the cables when mine broke but now there is a bunch of corrosion and the wires are shorter because of how much I had to cut off. This looks like a good solution when they break again. :)
Shockingly good video. Right on, Tim.
Out of all the videos this one was the best at showing what went where.
Thanks for sharing this - I've been thinking about replacing the cables in my ZJ as an upgrade - and now I know where to look for them. - It's a 4.0 with the stock alternator, which I've been thinking also about upgrading, as well.
Thank you I especially like the part about having the accessories on the outside of the terminal and the necessary on the inside. I learned something today thank you. I am a student out of college automotive electrical I've learned a lot of time with parasitic draw the first thing we go after is the accessories good idea
Good clean install! Nice job. There are many ways to have done this but i guess new clean wires works.
Right in time needed this one.
I personally would have cleaned up all my connections... Solid clean connections are critical to electrical system life and duty cycles.
I'm thinking a well maintained and clean stock charging system will work every bit as well. The heavy duty everything is cool and all - but you don't need to upgrade your 4 lane to a 8 lane highway when the same single car is going to drive on it.
@@padrescout yes, it absolutely can, if your not adding to the electric stuff. What I was talking about in my comments is where the cables go to old spots. The fender, firewall, TDC, and starter. I would have hit them all with at least a wire wheel. Clean bare metal to metal does the best for electricity.
@Curtis Rockwell Ah, my apologies, I misread that. Yeah , I completely agree - hitting those ground points with something to clean them up would have been a good idea, especially as a "while you are at it" sort of thing.
soldering connections is a 100% guarantee,that wire wont fail/break b4 that end fails,i do every power/ground that way its very easy and a lot of the time faster than junk crimp connections
@Sean Patrick I totally agree with the metal to metal connection cleaning , but you gotta watch out for precious metal conductive plating that people not knowing that they are sanding off the best part.Chassis anything goes. Since you were talking about marine conditions , I like to brush on some Star Brite Liquid electrical insulation/dielectric tape. Airtight , waterproof....What more can you do to improve on that? For the cherry on top.
i moved the ground on the firewall/head to the front stud on the head and to the rad support. i can see it and make sure it stays clean and can easily access it for cleaning.you confirm the ground with an Ohm meter.
Nice job Tim.I made my own cables out of #2 welding cable and crimped on my own lugs.Not quite as fancy as yours but for 30 bucks in wire and lugs they work damn good...
This is what I did, but my rig is mongrel so Kit's aren't an option to
careful with welding cable as its not rated for oils and detergents (dont forget heat) of the engine bay of a vehivle
@@Madams95 how do you figure?
HA! I just noticed the Bi-Mart brand battery which tells me you're located in the PNW. I'm just north of Tacoma, but grew up in Yakima and once worked at the Bi-Mart there when I was a kid. Thanks for a great video!
Watched on Patreon last week great video
I made a set of these wit 2ga marine cable, blue seas ANL fuse, and marine grade connections . Including tools for about $100. The cable is cheap on eBay and have made many other cables for other vehicles as well.
Mark Espinoza yea the wiring kit is 100$ so .... yea.... I bought the kit
I’m surprised you didn’t install some heat shielding on your cables, but I’m a weekend tinkerer. Great video! You did exclude the narrative when you retrieved that nut that fell between the bell housing and the firewall.
Thanks so much for the link. I need this in my hero.
Tim, great vid. You make it look easy....even the bleeding part. Lol
Just kidding. As always, you’ve produced another fantastic how to video.
Merry Christmas!
You saved my butt with this video thanks very much!
Good job bud keep up the good work I will be doing this for my bmw for grounds etc 👌
Nice video as always Tim
This looks similar to the amount of ground wires and connections in my 3.0ltr Ford Ranger. Mine even has that braided ground. This gives me ideas as there's no Ranger video of this quality. Thank you!
Yess after years of driving it is wise to clean corrosions n upgrade such automotive electronical wires n cables
Nothing beats gettin the Juice where it needs to be!
Did this mod last week. TJ is much happier
I put 2/0 cables on my diesel swap and more than doubled the cranking speed.
Awesome!!
Very happy You upgraded. I did mine about year ago with the addition to the rampage headlight and Putco harness upgrade. Headlights are super bright.
Don't run the alternator to fuse cable under the battery tray!!!! My stock wiring got pinched like that after I had the battery tray out doing some unrelated work. Well, the pinch weld beneath the battery tray cut through the shielding on the cable after a few days from the weight of the battery! It shorted so bad it melted the plastic coating off the entire parking brake line under the Jeep. I have a nice scorch mark under the hood too. Very lucky my XJ didn't catch fire.
He is arcing because, as you can see from the color, there is an layer of oxidation (I assume) that prevents or reduces conductivity between the cable and the terminal. This causes the arc to form. You should clean your terminals well until the metal is exposed and perhaps lube it with some conducting lube to prevent corrosion.
Aye!! I just installed those exact one about a month ago! There great!
what one is it
Great video, probably could have mentioned specifically to remove negative battery cable first, but otherwise nice setup and video!
Always good to put a bit of grease on the battery posts, stops any arcing and corrosion between battery posts and terminals
that is very helpful man . thank you very much for this great Video
Sweet! I want one of those for my zj
I just installed this a few days ago! This kit is awesome and Paul is very responsive. I ran into the same issue with the plastic shroud on the alternator. I ended up removing it, cutting it flat then reinstalling.
I also went with a marine breaker instead of the anl fuse.
That's what I should have done... Thought I'd be all trick by stretching that thing out. Nope.
@@jstans01 what marine fuse did you end up going with?
@@zacharywhitlock3130 It was on the shelf at my parts store (Autozone). I think it was something like 100 amp.
Awesome video, was able to follow along.
Please do an over view or a recap of your cowl induct air intake.
Thinking of doing this mod instead of a snorkel
i ended up getting this kit for a WJ.. super happy with it.
i left the braided cable from the head to the firewall and used the cable from the kit to connect the alternator case direct to battery instead.
It’s a few years late but cleaning connecting points and dielectric grease, also mount the fuse where you can see it and replace it without having to pull the battery out
Very nice video. I am re-building my Jeep (with engine swap) and I can't remember everything that was connected to battery. Your video helped out tremendously. Thank you for putting it together.
I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind.
I see that you installed a fuse between the PDC and the alternator. I assume that is to protect the PDC. Why not run a cable from battery directly to alternator?
Is there not a ground that goes from battery to the starter?
Thanks
Haha I installed those exact same ones about 4 months ago. I watched Nick on nick in time films channel! I still have a killer spark when i hook up the + of the battery. it looks really good tool. He does quality work. Thanks for sharing.
John Padilla if you get large sparks when you hook up your battery with the key off, you have something drawing power and that draw with the key off will kill your battery if left unattended for awhile. Thats known as parasitic draw, to avoid potentially dangerous and always terminal damaging sparks in the future, hook up your ground cable last, not your positive.
My alternator is giving me problems so I am getting an 120 amp replacement. I figured this would be a good time to do it right. I ordered mine last night.
Sweet action brother I love the big 3 . The big 3 is pretty popular in the car audio community it also is very good for keeping in maintaining your trucks electrical systems. 🇺🇸#Merica
This was a very good representation of exact placement points. However, I will say that I have always been told never take the stock wires away. Just add to them.
Thanks man. This helped a lot
Not too bad with that kit!
The flat braided cable from the engine to the bulkhead is flat to reduce radio interference and should be replaced by the same type of wire. The green wire has a "Fusable Link" which burns out to protect the alternator and what it connects to.
What. A great job brother thanks a lot
Nice kit for the most part. No crimping etc.
Great timing. This is next on my XJ to-do list.
You have a list!? Does it have an end?
Yes I have a list. Of course there is no end. @@bleepinjeep
BleepinJeep Now ‘that’ is funny!!
Great video, thank you!
Ah, Yes! Military battery terminals! They had it right and now you do too!
I like it already!!
i would round off the corner of the battery bracket by the positive terminal. looks a little close to me
I just did this last weekend...totally worth it!!
Much respect great video 📹
Great video
That looks awesome I need to upgrade my cables in the Cherokee. Veteran owned and made in the USA say no more.
T
great vid.... did your headlights get any brighter?
Been thinking of going welding wire route. They have a ton more strands than automotive and you get get really large cable for cheaper. But hey I’m an electrician and have seen guys at work save money by taking large scraps from work as battery cables lol.
Good visual and will help others. Also while companies need to make money and many can't seem to put all the parts list together seems very pricey. Quality cabling is available in many places (as others have mentioned) and those "special military" terminals are like $12.00 a set. That's some kinda markup.
The best mods require a blood sacrifice.
For long term corrosion protection, you want no metal to metal connections. Always use antiseize (metal dust in a carrier) or Telgel, silicone grease, many choices guarantee the cables you bolt down will never corrode. FWIW.
I did this today and when I connected the negative terminal the 150 amp fuse blew straight away? Any idea why?
Do you have something showing your air intake system? I am trying to figure something out that would free up the space where the factory air filter box is for a 2nd battery. Yours looks like it would work! Just found it "Thor's" video. lol I'll be doing something similar to this video when my 2nd battery is installed. Thanks for the video!
I would have used some convoluted piping especially on the positive wires to protect them from driving themselves bare and throwing a ground to the chassis and blowing the fuses.
Before installing new cable's clean to shiny metal then instsl new cable's and use grease to protect new terminals against corosion!
I built my own wire kit when I installed a winch. I did it for about $50 I went and bought wire from a marine dealer.
I some mids I want to install but some are dual coil and some are single. can I wire those to the same amp. if so what method of writing should I use?
waht name or model of the DeWaL you are have in thes video ? 2:45 pless ?
looks good mate the only think I recommend is grind a bit off the flat bar that's near the positive terminal, I don't like how close it is. I know the leads have heat shrink on them but long drives on rough tracks everything moves around and shakes around if it rubbed through a little bit it will short out.
go to 15 minutes 20 seconds and you will see what I mean
Several people have pointed this out and although you guys are correct, what you can't see is that the hold down bolts connect to the plastic battery tray so even if it did some how rub through the cable insulation it wouldn't arch out. Thank you though!
BleepinJeep so if that plastic tray cracked in an accident or over rough terrain, it can let go of one end of that steel bar, and then it can touch both terminals, and it wouldn’t matter if your whole Jeep was plastic, that bar touches both terminals it’s game over, or you just gonna pull it off while its glowing red? Doubt it, keep relying on plastic to save the day and you might earn a Darwin Award. Cover that positive terminal at least or I’d say you deserve one. Your Jeep on fire in a traffic accident won’t help anyone and if it hurts someone, your feel like a dick. Positive terminals are protected on just about everything in 2018, even mowers, get a clue accidents/rollovers happen, don’t be the asshole modding his vehicle in ways that make accidents worse than they need to be. That stupidity can turn a fender bender into a vehicle fire. People like you make insurance more expensive for the rest of us.
Keep telling us “what we can’t see tho”
its not us with the narrow selfish outlook missing the point.
They got you with that plastic piece on the alternator. If you had tried the other end of the cable to inside the plastic piece at the alternator, it probably would have fit without stretching the plastic.
My TJ kit has a ground wire labeled "Battery Negative and Fender". Being as I have a ground wire for Negative to the firewall and Negative to the engine block, I'm going to assume the fender one is supposed to be for block to body. It's about 4 feet long and I don't have one labelled block to body. Any reason why I couldn't run it from the engine block ground bolt to the firewall ground bolt? Is it actually supposed to go to a fender somewhere?
Good video. Do you have a video on how you set up your air filter/air inlet to your throttle body?
Wonder how much the kit costs. I replaced all my battery cables but I made my own and it didn't cost much and have plenty of spare cable and terminals
Just saw this, did u ever find out why its arcing? My 98 is doing the same ...I'm about to do this set up but I wonder why it arcs.its killin my battery as we speak the past few days. Also I added a 120 amp alt to my jeep, did the grind down bracket deal, what size fuse is needed 120 ?
Along with this, do most folks recommend having an additional battery to help for winching and lights?
I wouldn't say most folks... 1 good quality battery should be plenty for almost any situation. After installing the THOR intake I certainly have room for two batteries if ever needed.
How many total feet wire you think you used?
Thanks for this! I didn’t even know about JeepCables.com.
Hey did you end up getting it. If so how long did it take to deliver
@@mrpsound7754 I did, I bought it last year. It arrived quickly.
Watched the video and bought the cables. But I need help. My 96 XJ green pdc cable is part of a bigger wire harness. Temporary fix was cut old alternator tip and install new cable that came from set. Should I open up harness and separate all those connectors. Not sure and all the videos don’t address the 96. Any help would be appreciated
Great vid though!!
I wonder if this kit would work for my 95 ZJ?
If only a video like this existed for a gen 1 Camry solara
Would this also help with a misfire?
What year is that XJ? I'm getting in a MLC-6 too and noticed you didn't mount it over the block like recommend.
How long do you think the red and black lines are, respectfully?
These videos motivate me to stay working on my vehicles bc sometimes I can get so unorganized or drop stuff all the time and lose things and I give up and eventually sell stuff it...but then I see u work on ur jeep and u drop stuff and lose it or something goes wrong but u keep going with it and u finish it.
Start a RUclips channel. Makes you accountable to follow through on projects and keeps you motivated. 😁
that battery hold down iron bar/bracket looks awfully close on the corner to the pos batt terminal
Thanks for the video. Did you have any issues with the voltage gauge on the dash reading low? I did the same upgrade on my 89' Cherokee, and now the volt gauge on the dash reads low. Battery reads good with a voltage meter and everything seems to work fine otherwise.
There’s a dirty or loose connection somewhere, or something was missed somewhere.