One of my first & best mods IMO. My XJ started first try, prepped for my Dodge big alt swap,& ensure current available when needed. I used welding wire, waterproof shrink tube, & brass lugs. Upgraded batt post clamps too.
Hey Martin, I'm fairly new to your channel and being a jeep guy. Your videos are freaking great all the way around from the camera work to your explanations. Most importantly though is your demeanor, attitude, and your knowledge. Knowledge is the key to most things in life I believe and I appreciate you sharing yours.
Nice job posting this. I did this a couple of years ago on my XJ and it really made a difference, smoother running engine and no issues with the gauges.
Here is a video that I did that will show you exactly where I got this cable and how to remove it for around $5. ruclips.net/video/fto-1sLFt0A/видео.html
Hey Martin, great video. Just a suggestion on crimping,when doing a double crimp, first crimp starts closer to palm of lug second goes to wire entering lug
I've always struck a hammer on the end of the Pitman arm bolt bolt and also using a hammer on the side of the Pitman arm. Continuously tightening the Pitman arm bolt And it always comes off for me.
Love the video. I got my big piwer cable out of a bmw 740 IL any time i build a car i buy one to scrap an i take all the wire out of it an use it on my build
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it. Yeah. I've seen the battery cables on some of those BMWs. Those are even bigger than the one I got out of the chrysler.
I like how you said im not running 10 to 1 compression. The whole time i was thinking yeah not yet!!you know your always brainstorming for more power,ha,ha..know this is old vidieo but i was revisiting trying to see if you had info on were to get those nutsetter tools.i got a few projects that would benifit,snooky pa.keep ur top side up martin!!!!
Use some liquid electric tape after soldering/crimping then add your heat-shrink and you will have a forever cable that will last until the lug rots off. Seems not many people know about liquid electric tape but it is a great product especially like where you joined 2 wires in one lug and have a penetration between wires into the joint.
U pick u save in Syracuse New York I got mine out of a Chrysler 300 today yep 👍 about $ 6.00 in the rusty east coast. Thank you Martinbuilt great heads up on parts to put to use. I’ll have the ground on tomorrow from engine to frame. Got a ground a bit smaller but the best Made in the USA.
No in fact it was 66 degrees yesterday. Still warm today but rain. Snow is all most gone. I have my receipt from yesterday I paid 2.80 for 13’ of #1 red welding wire from that Chrysler 300. WOW cheap. I also found a high performance air cleaner, and a small 90 of hose for a total of $6.00
By pulling the negative cable first you prevent sparks. That's why they tell you to pull the negative then the positive. If it was a wet cell battery it could cause an explosion if it's venting alot of hydrogen gas at the time.
Only problem with a battery cut off switch is you have to do a PCM drive cycle every time you turn it off Basically like clearing your codes Then perform your drive cycle to reestablish your monitor systems test cycles Such as evap 02 sensors cat ect
I only use the cut off switch when servicing the vehicle much easier than pulling the cover off the battery box and removing the negative terminal, it also makes a great safety feature.
Great job and informative. Only thing I would do different would be to have a vent tube for battery due to fumes. Could be just as simple as hose and grommet that runs outside cab.
Thank you, there is actually a 3/4 hole vent toward the bottom of the battery box and there is also the battery temp sensor mounted at the back of the battery Box that also vents any battery games if any. One thing nice about the Optima battery that it is a sealed battery and only would it vent would gasses during an overcharge situation.
What is the special terminal called that leads to the alternator? It already came on your part from the junkyard, It’s got like some arms on it that you gotta spin into the alternator
Hey Martin your Jeep is 4.7 correct? Well my 4.0 doesn't have a power cord from the battery to the alternator. It has a power cord from the alternator to my fuse box. Is that the same cord essentially?
At the 15:30 mark what did you mean that the terminal wasnt touching the.. i think it was frame??? Also to solder, i just have the basic tools that i bought at Walmart, also a roll of lead type solder... Could i use that? Or is that too weak and 🔥
@@martinbuilt not directly related but still on the 04 jgc 4.7 HO, i watched the fan SWAP you did and was intrigued... But i was wondering have you found another electric fan that would also fit into it? Or has another subscriber of your page come across another fan that would also fit? And easier to bolt in?
not sure i would solder the joint. solder is not a reliable cable connection method. as the copper hardens from vibration more strain is placed on the solder joint itself until it fails. the ground system on these vehicles is kind of not great. i would not rely much on the unibody structure to transfer much load i would keep something similar to the factory arrangement and add a battery ground straight to the engine block as many parts of the vehicle electrical system ground through the block back to the battery, which is also grounded to the block.
I used to work at a wire harness factory where we built harnesses for John Deere and Caterpillar and many other companies and all of caterpillars terminals are dipped in soldered.
I agree with Marting, The solder is not for securing the joint, it is to improve the joint preventing moisture from entering the crimped zone and stiffens the cable end. The Heatshrink further holds the joint to reduce "moving/bending" the wire to lug section.
What if your battery is in the trunk? I've been wanting to install the big 3 on my 2015 camaro but the battery is located in the trunk. The only thing I can think of is run the 0g power wire from the trunk ,through the car, and to the alternator but from what i was told having "too long" of a wire can diminish the power your creating with the big 3. I have car audio that eats a good bit of it so i definitely need more power with everything powering off of the oem alternator
Since your battery is in the trunk, you probably already have one gauge cable. I would improve the ground cables then. You can also enlarge the alternator cable.
Very intresting your talking about ground. I have the left light flickering issue when stopped and my blower motor relay keeps blowing out. Wondering if i have weak ground straps. Their paper thin
So what is the Positive on your battery fed to? You show the one red cable (harness you built) it is connected to the frame and then you show (what I assume is the same Pos wire from the frame?) that wire connecting to the alternator. Frame to Alternator? Not Pos battery post to Alternator? Are you in Europe or is your car a diesel? I'm looking to do this for my Civic but now I'm not so sure lol
I am in Nevada USA. The red cable (+) to a pass through type connector. It does not ground directly to the frame that would cause a direct short. The positive cable does run inside the frame and I did add an additional split loom sleeve to help protect it. Then yes on the other side of the frame that pass through connector supplies power the starter and alternator and main distribution block. The link below are the type of connectors I was talking about that passed through my unibody frame. amzn.to/42hYy2E
Martinbuilt: I’ve looked for how you have removed the long battery positive wire from Chrysler 300 or dodge I don’t see a link under this video, I don’t find it in your video’s?
Martin, I missed the video link you mention of removing these cables at the recycling yard. Would you mind letting me know which video it is, possibly by the date, or name ? Thanks, A-Fan
I'm looking to do the big three on my 2018 JL Wrangler but it has an auxiliary battery and I'm not quite sure exactly how to do it is there any links you could send me to or any kind of help you can give me it would be much appreciated thank you
@@martinbuilt Well the auxiliary battery is buried under a whole lot of stuff in the engine bay and if I don't have to replace the cables to that it would be great that's mainly what my question was thank you for the reply.
Hi I had a quick question, I was gonna change my Alt to a 320 in my 20 Ram 1500 5.7. It said I needed a shorter belt, 1/2" to 1" shorter. I seen there is 2 options 1 belt is like .58" shorter and other is .98" shorter. How would I know which one will work best, thanks alot
By the sounds of it the manufacturers already determined that either one would work just fine it's just a range half an inch to 1" shorter will work. If you're planning on Is pulling anywhere near that 300 amps I would go ahead with the shorter one.
@martinbuilt ok cool yeah I was thinking of going with the 240A alt but might jus do the 320 and be done with jus in case. My amp Is a 2k which I don't plan on going any higher than that. It looks like the 240 and 320 pull around same amps at idle which I like but wasn't sure on if I should use that 1/2 belt or the belt closer to 1"
Hi Martin, I'm replacing the heads on my 4.7 and there are some ground straps that have fallen apart. Do the heads need a ground as well? From where to where? Thanks!
Yes, it's a go idea to have them. They go from the driver-side head at the rear coil bolt to the passenger side rear coil bolt to a ground stud just above the ECM.
check the block surface for flatness. these engines run a mls gasket which require an exceptionally perfect surface finshes to seal correctly. as martin said, yes theres a ground strap from each rear coil stud to a stud on the firewall.
I dont have a jeep but a mazda 323fastbreak (2001) I did a big 5 upgrade How do you think about upgrading the power and ground wires of the fusepanel or fusebox?(under the hood) not the interior fusepanel!! + battery to + fusebox - battery to -fusebox -fusebox to ground chassis or bodywork Is it also better to upgrade these 3 wires?
@@martinbuilt oke oke Tanx for your comment And what about the power wire from alternator to + fusebox? Is this one also needed to upgrade whene the powerwire from +alternator to + battery is alteady done? And how is it possible that you dont have any - fusebox?
@@acepairfecto5597 Yes i watched that vid also I am gonna put some small bolts in the back frame of the alternator and connect 2 or 3 wines from the small bolts to the bolt that holds the alternator . Than connect a big wire from that bolt to the - of the battery. And a extra ground wire from the altornator to grond chassis
hey martin, quick question. I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee 4.0. I'm doing a basic big 3 for a aftermarket sound system that is being installed. Where is the location of the factory OEM ground to switch out? It's so hard to find information on the grand cherokees. Thanks, great content boss
I think you prolly figured it out but when i did mine i just overlayed a lot or replaced some. 6guage for passenger side engine where i think the knock sensor is up to fire wall. 2 gauge from alternator bracket to battery, 2 gauge from battery to fender under the coolant tank (opted to not move the fuse box to replace the factory fender ground), then there is one more ground low on the engine block behind alternator i put a 2 gauge there up to the other bolt hole for the coolant tank but you can run it how you like. I choose the coolant tank because the mounting bolts already existed and it was easy to use studs over the lugs to reattach the tank. It is actually more like a big 7 wire upgrade on the WJ once you have done then all. I left the fuse box alone in mine as i was only adding 1200watt amplifier without expensive alternator upgrade and the factory should have had enough for their end (fuse box). I did notice the engine was a bit happier when the cooling fans kicked on and AC was running. Some those wires like Martin said maybe only 8guage and the flat strap on the passenger side to fire wall well i have seem more copper feeding and rc cars motor than Crysler used there my flat strap fell to 2 pieces when i remove the nut from it. I took 4 gauge back under passenger rear seat on a 100amp maxi fuse added a distribution block there with a pass through hot and 4 fusible legs. Added a Xspower AGM where Martin added his optima and found good spot just beside the E-brakes splitter box under the seats for a ground. This will all depend on how you want to do things i opted for some solid terminals that have 2 grubs screw holes of that take 0 to 4gauge and 2 grubs taking some smaller wires so i could over lay some of the factory wire since the terminals gave me so many options. I got both factory hot and negatives into 1 large grub hole per terminal and had another big hole and 2 smaller to play around with.
Martin I’m curious, have you had any issues with your wiring in the door hinge? I didn’t realize WJ’s have this problem with the wires breaking. Just curious if it’s happened to you yet. I was thinking going ahead and fixing it before it breaks since I see so many having that issue.
@@martinbuilt Appreciate you answering Martin. Yeah I guess we’re both lucky. I think I’m going to just pull the loom out and see if there’s any sign of wear. I didn’t realize so many WJ’s have an issue with this. Nice seeing you’re clean wiring in yours. I love how meticulous you are. It’s always the best when you do it yourself!
Not true. At 75° Celsius ... 1/0 OFC can handle around 150amps , while 1/0 CCA can handle around 120amps. So Copper Clad Aluminum isn't so bad. As long as it's measured by the AWG standard. 🤷🏻👍🏻
So you re-engineer ed your your cars electrical system , are you do you have an automotive engineering degree mr._______, let the record show he does not.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I like to grind the flare off the terminal ends so there aren't any hot spots in the shrink tube
One of my first & best mods IMO. My XJ started first try, prepped for my Dodge big alt swap,& ensure current available when needed.
I used welding wire, waterproof shrink tube, & brass lugs. Upgraded batt post clamps too.
Thanks for sharing
Jmu
Thanks Martin. Already got me 2 of these. 2.99 a piece is a steal. Going to get more. Great for the boat too!
Wow that's a great price, you can't bet that.
Hey Martin, I'm fairly new to your channel and being a jeep guy. Your videos are freaking great all the way around from the camera work to your explanations. Most importantly though is your demeanor, attitude, and your knowledge. Knowledge is the key to most things in life I believe and I appreciate you sharing yours.
Thank you for the kind words Todd, I really appreciate that. 😊
Nice job posting this. I did this a couple of years ago on my XJ and it really made a difference, smoother running engine and no issues with the gauges.
Yeah I may need to do this to my XJ
What size ground did you use same size as this?
@@mobius-1503 yes, same cable 1 gauge, I just pained the red black.
@@mobius-1503 yes
Also the ground going to the body by the battery I did that #4 as well
Currently doing the BIG 3 on our 2 Dodge Chargers, love Martin's processes, very nice, clean and thoughful. in one word, AWESOME!
Thank you, Rob. I really appreciate that! 🤗
Martinbuilt: I’m going to follow your big three cable set up for my own WJ. Always the best videos on RUclips. Thank you!
Thank you, Greg, I really appreciate that. 😀
Jeep Cables has big7 kits, but for stock battery location.
kits are over priced. wire itself is expensive Martin shows how to save and still do it right.
we're did you get the wire from
Here is a video that I did that will show you exactly where I got this cable and how to remove it for around $5.
ruclips.net/video/fto-1sLFt0A/видео.html
Hey Martin, great video. Just a suggestion on crimping,when doing a double crimp, first crimp starts closer to palm of lug second goes to wire entering lug
What video do you show how to remove the 1 guage wire from the dodge charger/magnum? I really want to watch it
I rewatched this video and seen the video recommendation pop up thanks!
Kenny Gerald,
Is there a timestamp of the video Martin mentioned ?
I too, have missed it.
Thanks in advance,
Any advice on how to get a stuck pitman arm off? Mine is stuck on there good.
I've always struck a hammer on the end of the Pitman arm bolt bolt and also using a hammer on the side of the Pitman arm. Continuously tightening the Pitman arm bolt And it always comes off for me.
Do you guys know about autotechengineering they have alternators for imports like the 10th gen Honda civic
Love the video.
I got my big piwer cable out of a bmw 740 IL any time i build a car i buy one to scrap an i take all the wire out of it an use it on my build
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it. Yeah. I've seen the battery cables on some of those BMWs. Those are even bigger than the one I got out of the chrysler.
I like how you said im not running 10 to 1 compression. The whole time i was thinking yeah not yet!!you know your always brainstorming for more power,ha,ha..know this is old vidieo but i was revisiting trying to see if you had info on were to get those nutsetter tools.i got a few projects that would benifit,snooky pa.keep ur top side up martin!!!!
The engine I have on the stand will be 10:1 if I ever get it built. Here is a link to that tool
RZX 16" RIVET NUT TOOL amzn.to/3tGHSyl
Thank you. I appreciate the info, I will try to upgrade to my toyota camry.
Use some liquid electric tape after soldering/crimping then add your heat-shrink and you will have a forever cable that will last until the lug rots off. Seems not many people know about liquid electric tape but it is a great product especially like where you joined 2 wires in one lug and have a penetration between wires into the joint.
I've used that liquid tape many times and it works quite well.
amzn.to/3MjrVqn
U pick u save in Syracuse New York I got mine out of a Chrysler 300 today yep 👍 about $ 6.00 in the rusty east coast. Thank you Martinbuilt great heads up on parts to put to use. I’ll have the ground on tomorrow from engine to frame. Got a ground a bit smaller but the best Made in the USA.
That's still a really good deal.. I would imagine this time of year you had to battle a little bit of snow.
No in fact it was 66 degrees yesterday. Still warm today but rain. Snow is all most gone.
I have my receipt from yesterday I paid 2.80 for 13’ of #1 red welding wire from that Chrysler 300. WOW cheap. I also found a high performance air cleaner, and a small 90 of hose for a total of $6.00
@@gregj.gotham4402 That is is an awesome deal.👍
Do you recommend fuses from alternator to battery and battery to fuse box?
Thanks Martin I never knew they were using wire like that in that vehicles in seriously going to go snag me up some new wires for my zj
By pulling the negative cable first you prevent sparks. That's why they tell you to pull the negative then the positive. If it was a wet cell battery it could cause an explosion if it's venting alot of hydrogen gas at the time.
Is there a particular order to connect the Big 3 once ur ready to install???
Only problem with a battery cut off switch is you have to do a PCM drive cycle every time you turn it off
Basically like clearing your codes
Then perform your drive cycle to reestablish your monitor systems test cycles
Such as evap 02 sensors cat ect
I only use the cut off switch when servicing the vehicle much easier than pulling the cover off the battery box and removing the negative terminal, it also makes a great safety feature.
Great job and informative. Only thing I would do different would be to have a vent tube for battery due to fumes. Could be just as simple as hose and grommet that runs outside cab.
Thank you, there is actually a 3/4 hole vent toward the bottom of the battery box and there is also the battery temp sensor mounted at the back of the battery Box that also vents any battery games if any. One thing nice about the Optima battery that it is a sealed battery and only would it vent would gasses during an overcharge situation.
I think those optima bats are AGM so no vents needed
What is the special terminal called that leads to the alternator? It already came on your part from the junkyard, It’s got like some arms on it that you gotta spin into the alternator
Harness/ Wiring Tuck, Damn Martin WAAAAYYYY TOOOO MUCH TROUBLE FOR ME TO DO, KRAZY. GOOD LUCK WITH THAT, YA I IMAGINE IT WILL TAKE WHILE, HOLY CROW.
Another great job and video.
I appreciate that
Not shown in the other video, was the negative cable also off the charger?
I didn't use the negative from the Charger, it is only 8 gauge. The negative that I used was the same red cable I just painted it black.
Hey Martin your Jeep is 4.7 correct? Well my 4.0 doesn't have a power cord from the battery to the alternator. It has a power cord from the alternator to my fuse box. Is that the same cord essentially?
At the 15:30 mark what did you mean that the terminal wasnt touching the.. i think it was frame???
Also to solder, i just have the basic tools that i bought at Walmart, also a roll of lead type solder... Could i use that? Or is that too weak and 🔥
To prevent rust, paint the frame any where the terminal is not contacting the frame.
@@martinbuilt not directly related but still on the 04 jgc 4.7 HO, i watched the fan SWAP you did and was intrigued... But i was wondering have you found another electric fan that would also fit into it? Or has another subscriber of your page come across another fan that would also fit? And easier to bolt in?
@@noemah3272 the 97 Mercury Villager or the Lincoln Mark VIII fan would be a good fit and perform well.
not sure i would solder the joint. solder is not a reliable cable connection method. as the copper hardens from vibration more strain is placed on the solder joint itself until it fails. the ground system on these vehicles is kind of not great. i would not rely much on the unibody structure to transfer much load i would keep something similar to the factory arrangement and add a battery ground straight to the engine block as many parts of the vehicle electrical system ground through the block back to the battery, which is also grounded to the block.
I used to work at a wire harness factory where we built harnesses for John Deere and Caterpillar and many other companies and all of caterpillars terminals are dipped in soldered.
@@martinbuilt how long ago?
@@salvadorebertolone 1986-1991
I agree with Marting, The solder is not for securing the joint, it is to improve the joint preventing moisture from entering the crimped zone and stiffens the cable end. The Heatshrink further holds the joint to reduce "moving/bending" the wire to lug section.
My mechanic did not sand painted part of chasis. It didn’t improve the voltage at all.
Nice job as always Martin..
Thanks again!
What if your battery is in the trunk? I've been wanting to install the big 3 on my 2015 camaro but the battery is located in the trunk. The only thing I can think of is run the 0g power wire from the trunk ,through the car, and to the alternator but from what i was told having "too long" of a wire can diminish the power your creating with the big 3. I have car audio that eats a good bit of it so i definitely need more power with everything powering off of the oem alternator
Since your battery is in the trunk, you probably already have one gauge cable. I would improve the ground cables then. You can also enlarge the alternator cable.
Very intresting your talking about ground. I have the left light flickering issue when stopped and my blower motor relay keeps blowing out. Wondering if i have weak ground straps. Their paper thin
Yes it could be a poore ground. The ground straps may be thin but they add up to around a 14 Gauge wire.
So what is the Positive on your battery fed to? You show the one red cable (harness you built) it is connected to the frame and then you show (what I assume is the same Pos wire from the frame?) that wire connecting to the alternator. Frame to Alternator? Not Pos battery post to Alternator? Are you in Europe or is your car a diesel? I'm looking to do this for my Civic but now I'm not so sure lol
I am in Nevada USA. The red cable (+) to a pass through type connector. It does not ground directly to the frame that would cause a direct short. The positive cable does run inside the frame and I did add an additional split loom sleeve to help protect it. Then yes on the other side of the frame that pass through connector supplies power the starter and alternator and main distribution block. The link below are the type of connectors I was talking about that passed through my unibody frame.
amzn.to/42hYy2E
@martinbuilt amazing work btw! Thanks for explaining, I suspected you had something novel setup there ✓
Martinbuilt: I’ve looked for how you have removed the long battery positive wire from Chrysler 300 or dodge I don’t see a link under this video, I don’t find it in your video’s?
It should be this video
Relocate Battery on a 99-04 Jeep Grand ruclips.net/video/TDyCwM6FI54/видео.html
Is it true that the big 3 upgrade affects the battery after a while ?
There would be no negative effects from doing the big 3
You are a legend!
What's the output of your alternator?
160 amp
@@martinbuilt 1/0 is good for 300A continuous duty if length is kept under 8ft
Very helpful. Thanks.
You're very welcome. Thank you for watching.
Question... When I do the Big 3 install... Do I completely disconnect the battery cables before installing the big 3 wires???
Yes, I definitely disconnect the battery before being.
@@martinbuilt Appreciate
Martin,
I missed the video link you mention of removing these cables at the recycling yard.
Would you mind letting me know which video it is, possibly by the date, or name ?
Thanks,
A-Fan
ruclips.net/video/fto-1sLFt0A/видео.html
I'm looking to do the big three on my 2018 JL Wrangler but it has an auxiliary battery and I'm not quite sure exactly how to do it is there any links you could send me to or any kind of help you can give me it would be much appreciated thank you
I would just replace the existing battery cables with a larger gauge cable, and you should be good.
@@martinbuilt
Well the auxiliary battery is buried under a whole lot of stuff in the engine bay and if I don't have to replace the cables to that it would be great that's mainly what my question was thank you for the reply.
I have a cylinder 4 misfire changed cam and crank sensors, no change. 98 2.5 Wrangler. Any ideas
I would check and change if needed, the spark plug, ignition wire, fuel injector and distributor cap.
@@martinbuilt think could be pcm?
@@michaeladams3851 I doubt it, I would check the things that control the #4 cylinder first.
Also look for carbon tracking in the spark plug boots, always start with the simple stuff first.
Great job as always.
I appreciate that, thank again!
Hi I had a quick question, I was gonna change my Alt to a 320 in my 20 Ram 1500 5.7. It said I needed a shorter belt, 1/2" to 1" shorter. I seen there is 2 options 1 belt is like .58" shorter and other is .98" shorter. How would I know which one will work best, thanks alot
By the sounds of it the manufacturers already determined that either one would work just fine it's just a range half an inch to 1" shorter will work.
If you're planning on Is pulling anywhere near that 300 amps I would go ahead with the shorter one.
@martinbuilt ok cool yeah I was thinking of going with the 240A alt but might jus do the 320 and be done with jus in case. My amp Is a 2k which I don't plan on going any higher than that. It looks like the 240 and 320 pull around same amps at idle which I like but wasn't sure on if I should use that 1/2 belt or the belt closer to 1"
Hi Martin, I'm replacing the heads on my 4.7 and there are some ground straps that have fallen apart. Do the heads need a ground as well? From where to where? Thanks!
Yes, it's a go idea to have them. They go from the driver-side head at the rear coil bolt to the passenger side rear coil bolt to a ground stud just above the ECM.
check the block surface for flatness. these engines run a mls gasket which require an exceptionally perfect surface finshes to seal correctly. as martin said, yes theres a ground strap from each rear coil stud to a stud on the firewall.
hi! can i use 200amp wires from a jumper cable/lead? i found them to be thick and high amperage. thanks in advance!
As long as the Gauge of wire is bigger than what you already have I would go for it, bigger is always better.
@@martinbuilt thanks for your advice! love your vid so informative
I dont have a jeep but a mazda 323fastbreak (2001)
I did a big 5 upgrade
How do you think about upgrading the power and ground wires of the fusepanel or fusebox?(under the hood)
not the interior fusepanel!!
+ battery to + fusebox
- battery to -fusebox
-fusebox to ground chassis or bodywork
Is it also better to upgrade these 3 wires?
yes, it would a good idea to upgrade the + battery to fusebox+
I don't have any - fusebox but if your car does yes you can do those as well.
@@martinbuilt oke oke
Tanx for your comment
And what about the power wire from alternator to + fusebox?
Is this one also needed to upgrade whene the powerwire from +alternator to + battery is alteady done?
And how is it possible that you dont have any - fusebox?
@@acepairfecto5597 ok..tanx man👍
@@acepairfecto5597
Yes i watched that vid also
I am gonna put some small bolts in the back frame of the alternator and connect 2 or 3 wines from the small bolts to the bolt that holds the alternator .
Than connect a big wire from that bolt to the - of the battery.
And a extra ground wire from the altornator to grond chassis
@@acepairfecto5597
Watch team# peranurkka
Also a good explain
Nice work.
Thank you! Cheers! 😃
hey martin, quick question. I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee 4.0. I'm doing a basic big 3 for a aftermarket sound system that is being installed. Where is the location of the factory OEM ground to switch out? It's so hard to find information on the grand cherokees. Thanks, great content boss
I think you prolly figured it out but when i did mine i just overlayed a lot or replaced some. 6guage for passenger side engine where i think the knock sensor is up to fire wall. 2 gauge from alternator bracket to battery, 2 gauge from battery to fender under the coolant tank (opted to not move the fuse box to replace the factory fender ground), then there is one more ground low on the engine block behind alternator i put a 2 gauge there up to the other bolt hole for the coolant tank but you can run it how you like. I choose the coolant tank because the mounting bolts already existed and it was easy to use studs over the lugs to reattach the tank. It is actually more like a big 7 wire upgrade on the WJ once you have done then all. I left the fuse box alone in mine as i was only adding 1200watt amplifier without expensive alternator upgrade and the factory should have had enough for their end (fuse box). I did notice the engine was a bit happier when the cooling fans kicked on and AC was running. Some those wires like Martin said maybe only 8guage and the flat strap on the passenger side to fire wall well i have seem more copper feeding and rc cars motor than Crysler used there my flat strap fell to 2 pieces when i remove the nut from it. I took 4 gauge back under passenger rear seat on a 100amp maxi fuse added a distribution block there with a pass through hot and 4 fusible legs. Added a Xspower AGM where Martin added his optima and found good spot just beside the E-brakes splitter box under the seats for a ground. This will all depend on how you want to do things i opted for some solid terminals that have 2 grubs screw holes of that take 0 to 4gauge and 2 grubs taking some smaller wires so i could over lay some of the factory wire since the terminals gave me so many options. I got both factory hot and negatives into 1 large grub hole per terminal and had another big hole and 2 smaller to play around with.
Martin I’m curious, have you had any issues with your wiring in the door hinge? I didn’t realize WJ’s have this problem with the wires breaking. Just curious if it’s happened to you yet. I was thinking going ahead and fixing it before it breaks since I see so many having that issue.
No not as of yet. A lot of cars have this problem.
@@martinbuilt Appreciate you answering Martin. Yeah I guess we’re both lucky. I think I’m going to just pull the loom out and see if there’s any sign of wear. I didn’t realize so many WJ’s have an issue with this. Nice seeing you’re clean wiring in yours. I love how meticulous you are. It’s always the best when you do it yourself!
Great work Martin!!! My 04 WJ is jealous of your 04!!!🤣🤣
Thanks 👍
great job Martin,i liked the made in the U-S-A...but what about made in Great Britain...hahaha.
I think you're the guy my Uncle Scott told me about. You're from Henderson right? He helped you fabricate something for some weights you made.
Yup I'm the guy, your Uncle has helped me out several times.
Nice!
Thanks 😊
That cheap cable isn't oxygen free and has a lot more resistance than oxygen-free cable. You basically got to run twice as much as oxygen-free wire.
Not true. At 75° Celsius ... 1/0 OFC can handle around 150amps , while 1/0 CCA can handle around 120amps.
So Copper Clad Aluminum isn't so bad. As long as it's measured by the AWG standard. 🤷🏻👍🏻
Go 2
So you re-engineer ed your your cars electrical system , are you do you have an automotive engineering degree mr._______, let the record show he does not.
Go trump
The problem is made in USA 😂
Is it true that the big 3 upgrade affects the battery after a while ?
What do you mean it affects the battery?
@@martinbuilt meaning will it make the battery swell after a period of time or destroy it's life cycle before time