I like to give the new sheet metal replacement parts and brackets a quick satin clear coat before installing them. Helps lengthen life by preventing rust better.
Be aware, on 2006 & later GM there is a meter on the ground wires that tells the alternator how much to output. So you’d need to run the second negative cable over to the drivers side and through the meter before grounding it.
I can't seem to find a video on this regarding the meter. I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 and my spare battery tray is swapped from his setup. My spare battery tray is on the driver's side and the primary on passenger side.
From what I understand, if you want the trickle charge if you run ground to ground and positive to positive on both batteries, the alt will keep both juiced up.
Tahoe PPVs have the option for a second battery from factory. One to start the vehicle and the second to run the accessories. This way the vehicle always starts.
No there’s no on board isolator on the ppv. There’s only a battery tray there already. I have a 2012 ppv with two optima yellow tops, isolator wired into the ignition fuse so the second battery links when the key is turned. It was for 4,000watt sound system but has saved me when the wife leaves the lights on and kills the first battery.
I have a 2017 Tahoe PPV and it came with dual batteries and an isolator. When you key on the isolator connects the second battery. This is so cops can run all their high current electronics all night with the vehicle switched off and still have a fully charged starter battery.
Great mod. I use the same Diehard Platinum AGM in my vehicles. Since the new battery cables are entirely covered with black wire loom, it’s less obvious which is POS/NEG. My solution was to carefully paint the +/- symbols on top of the battery with neon orange nail polish ($2 Walmart).
I too have done the extra battery upgrade in my 2000 and 2006 silverado. The only difference is I did use the OEM isolator that plugs into the connector that hangs by the A/C drier. The extra battery runs my amps, radios and extra lights I added while the factory battery only runs the truck. I also added a dual battery voltage gauge that shows the voltage of the 2 all the time. I will be getting the noco genius on board charger (5x2 or 10x2) in the future so they stay charged when not in use...
@Travis Hamler it's only about 1500w total. But I run multiple 100w 2 way radios, emergency lights and other items confidently with the truck off and not worry about draining batteries and them not starting.
@@2009KVFD976 I came to ask him to put an isolator in and do a video. I’m wanting to do one that will run an inverter. Do you have a video of the install?
Your cranking battery should ALWAYS run everything that is high current draw. Such as lights (exterior) big amps/subs. Because the second battery should be a deep cycle to run all of the low draw items
Just completed this mod on my 2006 GMC Yukon. Had to buy some cool tools but it was worth it. My current battery was expired by 45 days, LOL. Bought 2 of the same duralast gold at AutoZone. Love it. Thanks Matt for the video.
Had no idea you could use that area for another battery, awesome. Would love to see a video about being able to use it for something like charging up cordless job site tools. I would use it so much.
that new battery on the passenger side, could run the ground to the frame, or the front of the passenger head. the positive, you can run it down by the starter, and follow the starter's positive wire all the way over to the driver's side battery. Stinger makes a dual connector that helps. its clean that way
The 2015+ models have the default battery in the passenger side and it is grounded to the frame behind the wheel liner. The auxiliary battery location for 2015-2020 models is the driver side area. Exactly the opposite.
@Parker I think they should have put the factory battery on the driver left as they did in your Tahoe, as that would make replacement a whole heck of a lot easier. However some bean counter likely figured out they'd be using more wire to do so. Also maybe something about "unsprung" weight as it's forward of the front suspension. Who knows?
@ElectroVoltBoltI think this is normal for 07-14 gm suvs and trucks, my 07 Escalade also has the battery in the passenger side but has a spot to put a battery on the driver side
Thanks for the idea Matt. I just completed my install tonight. This is going to pair perfectly with my 3k watt inverter I’m installing before my camping trip next week.
@@VoltageAces bigger alternator, battery cables, better battery and something else. I’m guessing a capacitor. We used to always say the big 3 upgrade, but I guess they added capacitor.
You're going to want a dc-to-dc with mppt solar charge controller and a deep cycle/amp hour type battery. Then isolated to only your dash cam to the deep cycle if that's what you're trying to go for. That passenger fender firewall location is exactly where the battery is in my 07 Avalanche from the Factory, if I did this mod I would have to do it in reverse and put a battery up front, LOL
Once you do add solar and/or inverter, consider the isolator to protect your engine start battery from degradation, and have all goodies added on be running off the auxiliary battery/inverter/solar. Now I need to go eyeball 'neath the hood of my Tahoe and see if I'm GTG for this mod. I already have another automotive battery waiting in the wings. Good stuff there Matt. Thank you.
The small braided ground wire that on the firewall is how your ground is getting to the starter from your new battery. Also running it to the frame will not help. The engine is only grounded to the frame with a 6 awg wire that comes off the stock battery. Run the ground to the engine Block or to the front or back of the passenger Cylinder Head. If your tahoe came with a battery current sensor on the main ground of the the stock battery wire. Run your new ground wire to the stock battery terminal. If you have not cleaned your stock ground on the engine this would be a good time to do that. It's on the drivers side of the engine just follow the ground wire.
I just did the same mod on my 2004 Avalanche. Simple parallel setup. Effectively I have, instead of a 800 CCA single battery, I have a 1600 CCA battery split into 2 parts. I did ground the 2nd battery to the engine, there are several unused threaded bolt holes on the heads.
Good choice adding a second battery. In car audio, big system have two or more extra batteries just for extra reserve. A note on the isolator, if the batteries are the same chemistries, you dont need an isolator. I have a small AGM under the hood and an big H8 style in the back for my system and never had an issue. What I would say is to do is a "Big 3" wire upgrade. You'll have better charging current from the alt to keep those two batts charged much better.
In 2003 I installed a second battery on a 2002 Chevy Z71 pickup truck. I believe that I bought it from 4 wheel parts or maybe it was somewhere else. The transfer switch allowed the second battery to charge from the alternator all of the time with a manual switch for just the 2nd battery and also both batteries connected.
i never "knew" i needed a second battery but i ended up with a spare battery by accident (for free) and found this mod in 2023. this was great and explanation was brilliant! I did end up adding a battery isolator ($15 amazon purchase) just for the usage flexibility. The one use of this mode that i felt worked best for me was moving my amp wire to the second battery. i just like confusing the techs at jiffy lube when theyre trying to figure out which is the starting battery to test 🙂. checking for an auxiliary switch to add other accessories later, that i saw in your video.
Same setup with 2 battery was done by me some time ago. First - we have quite cheap "car batteries isolator device" integrated in to 200A relay. So battery connect to eachother only when voltage higher, than 13v for some seconds, this means only when engine is started and generator charge batteries. When engine stopped, batteries are disconnected. Second step - DashCams connects only to second battery, thru "automatic voltage disconnector relay", if voltage drops less, that configured value (11v for me), all 24h devices will be disconnected. This gives me insurance to start engine at any time, plus dual camera dashcam works for about a week, and, this not kill second battery, if car will stay for more time.
Thats the stock install location for if you you had the camper dual battery option or snow plow option. The factory option has a relay that isolates the second battery when vehicle us off
Only been here for the last couple of months (since I got a $1500 '01 Tahoe) so it's neat to see a video the day it was released. Been thinking about doing this anyway. Great work Matt, really appreciate the content and I even watch the Camero videos. 😃
@@Ericlmarwalker1 It wasn't when I got it. '01 LT 4x4, 5.3L / 4L60E with 226k. Main issues were grounds, crank position sensor and EGR valve. Now it runs smooth and still feels pretty strong. It sometimes shifts hard into 2nd, less now that the fluid is topped off. Besides most of the ground on the frame being corroded off and some rot in the rockers, it's is pretty good shape considering a hard life in rural South Dakota. I'm happy with it and it will share driving and towing duties with my '15 Sierra. I have lots of little things to do still so I'm enjoying Matt's series on his. Hope it's a good one for you if you end up with it.
The best thing to do is the big 3 upgrade. Don't take off the stock stuff just add to it both my battery connections are 9/16 bolts now, 0/4 gauge wire from alternator+ to power block, 0/4 from alternator case "top bolt on alt to ground firewall and ground firewall to -battery.
@@johnnymissfire8464 The gauges stay brighter with headlights on, pressing the window button doesn't slow the blower motor and overall the voltage sits higher. But yes it is most beneficial if you add lights a wench or aftermarket stereo.
Correct and in addition to that when the pedal is pushed to the floor the electronic fuel pump ignition system as a whole and other aspects of the drivetrain are depending on enough voltage available to maintain full capacity or to even get up to 100% in the first place pictures of fuel pump dropping from say 13.2 V to 11.8v . It will definitely have a lesser output. In addition your transmission is 110 electronic and Depends solely on voltage to make a quick shift. Lower bolted can cause a laggy shift even if just by a sort fraction of a second can cause slippage. Minor slippage will become more noticeable slippage and then your clutches become worn in the transmission and drastically worse as time goes on. Even if the vehicle is running the alternator can only put so much a back into the battery wow that seem a maybe forced out of the battery faster than it could be energized. For this reason the immediately available amount of proper voltage is incredibly important this is why two batteries is a must for people like myself who run winches performance audio accessory lighting communicational equipment and often charge batteries for tools and inverter simultaneous to the regular vehicle operations in which the factory vehicle alternator and battery system is hardly up to par for the first place it is already at Max. Some vehicles may have a higher amperage alternator from the factory sometimes it's like a special RPO code or any electric seat warmers sunroof may have equivalent to a larger Factory alternator which is all the more reason more to use a second battery I definitely recommend using a isolator I use a better doctor 100-amp and I put all the accessories including the radio and other accessories that I take off of the main circuits of the truck basically run everything that you had to the truck that you possibly can use without it running to the second battery now put the stereo on the second battery to you don't have to put the key and use the store anymore you can flip the switch and have the truck off. Also you can start the truck without it interrupting the stereo and like in the video Even when your main battery takes a shit because you left the wire Toulouse to the ground or to the positive and it wasn't getting charged your truck will have only been running properly because of the extra battery and as well as your second battery will not be used to jump the first battery by pushing the manual button on the smart isolator which will connect the two batteries. Generally the two batteries are only connected by the isolator reaches 13 point 6 which is a full charge with running vehicle it at that point will connect the two together and charge the auxiliary battery as well
Its been fine but recently my remote start app has been telling me the vehicle battery is low after sitting for more than a day. I’m planning on adding a switching solenoid for the 2nd battery soon.
I ran my battery wire in the same spot across the firewall but hooked it directly to my other battery and a positive from each battery directly to the alternator. Also upgraded the batteries grounds to the alternator bracket, firewall and frame on both sides
AWESOME VIDEO. I have a 2003 Tahoe and lost a Lead Acid Bat. do to me leaving the dash cam on. So I need a new Battery and so why not two of them. VERY AWESOME OF YOU to give us links for the parts . Thank you Thank you Thank you. ---mww
I am trying to figure out where to mount a 2nd battery in a 1999 suburban. There is a secondary Air injection smog pump on the 2nd battery tray. Also it has a different configuration in the location the battery tray was installed in this video. 🤨
I have a 5000W power converter in my work van so I can run power tools and charge batteries on job sites that power isn't convent to get to. I also installed a second battery. I put a 150A fuse at the second battery then installed a digital gauge on my dash that reads directly off the second battery. If the fuse is good then it should always read about the same as the volt gauge on my dash, If the fuse is blown then I'll see that the second battery has less volts then the main battery and the alternator isn't charging it. I live in N.E. Ohio so the extra power to start in -10 degree temp is a real bonus .
Whats up Matt. Thank you. The positive went to the big connector in the box and not the fusible link right? Stupid question but thank you. My Escalade has been sitting for 2 years. Didnt know it was a ground issue. Shes a beast again. Trying to run this second battery and this is by far the best video.
how do you lie that LED store thingy (can't tell which product it is)? i got the relay/fuse unit and a power distro unit, have to get 3 of the power units to get one where the lid tabs didn't brake imediately. Theyre customer service was great in helping get a good unit. Glad to see you giving the old some love still. Lookin' good
When I put a higher amp alternator in my 99 Silverado, I changed out the alternator charge wire from the alternator to that junction block. I couldn't believe how thin a gauge looking they come with. I recommend putting a thicker guage wire there since it's short and easy to get to for better charging
Hey Matt nice install one thing you should run a ground wire to the battery from the other one and now run the alt wire to new battery so you are crossing the charge from one battery to the other on and have all power come off the original battery will keep the batteries balanced car stereo stuff is were I picked this up and have used it many times for winches big solar power battery banks. If you really wanted the starter to spin faster put a ground wire from the second battery to starter bolt old drag racing trick getter ground
Awesome video I plan on doing this mod on my well used 2002 GMC SIERRA 1500 4.3 VORTEC V6 with 408 thousands miles a well used truck for $1500 peace ✌ and much respect to you Jason 👍
@Lsxmatt What kind of box is that to the left of the brake booster and can you please make another video about the details of how you distributed and connected the cables?
That would only protect the alternator, not the rest of the vehicle. There is a smaller gauge wire from the main battery cable to the fuse block, so I guess that would act as a fuse, protecting the rest of the truck wiring.
Maybe cuz mines an 08 z71 , my factory battery location is where you just added the 2nd one on the passenger side . And similarly I have a big open spot on the driver side for a second battery. I always assumed it was like that so it could be easily converted into a police vehicle package or something along those lines.
the reason there is no fuse on the old battery is because it uses a fusible link. I would recommend putting a MEGAFUSE (20% above the rating of the alternator and holder) between the new battery and the junction where you spliced it in.
As for your outlet I'd say skip it all together and do a little checking on line. The real deal 4wd warriors are hooking up diode rectifiers and solenoids to convert their alternator into a 110/220 power source. / Stick welder. They make extremely competent stick welders. You need to have someone bring the rpms up since thats how you control the output for welding thinker metals. I've got mine band I'm actually shooting for a plasma cutter built-in with a small fridge compressor converted to work with the cutter. The 2 things I want to have on me in a pinch a plasma cutter and a welder.
The second battery location is for vehicles with Onstar.My wifes Tahoe has Onstar and the battery is next to the firewall.My Suburban without Onstar has the battery up front next to radiator.
Assuming he had the power draw. Odds are it wont, the dual batteries help with spikes like in shifting (computer demands more power to engage shifts etc). Itll only pull more power to charge it otherwise the pull is the same as it has been once its charged. You just created double the Capacity. Basically ita like adding an extra fuel tank to your boat. You boat wont burn more fuel cause you didnt change the engine. Itll just run longer before fueling up. Same concept as two batteries, IF he leaves the key off he can have a longer duration to run stereos charge phones etc. The pull or "Fuel intake" is the same until he adds lights or a huge stereo.
I would do a slightly larger alternator maybe a 170 if you're running stock. And definitely would do the big three upgrade with one ought cable. Make sure it's oxygen free copper as well not copper clad aluminum as copper clad aluminum one ought is basically the same as 4 gauge copper.
Not sure why but on my gmt900 silverado the main battery was in that location with not sure the name but power distribution box? mounted on the firewall not sure why they changed from the front to back.
My Suburban has 2 main power wires for the starter and Accessories. If you install a dual battery isolator, would you want to keep the starter battery on one and move the Accessory wire over to the 2nd battery?
If those batteries are not "sealed", water will leak off the cowl onto the battery causing the acid to overfill a kill your battery. I know this by experience and you can find it talked about in forums. I covered my aux battery with stick on heat shield so water will run off.
I noticed today my 06 Silverado already had the second battery tray. Not sure if they just used the bracket they had when they built it or if it was actually optioned for a second battery. No sign of one ever being installed though.
Hey Matt! Firstly, I love your videos and I can't wait to see where you take Tahiti. I know you've been looking for some modernization ideas and I have an option for you that would be awesome. Passive keyless entry... you walk up (key in pocket) doors unlock. You walk away, doors lock. Also, ever been jealous of how Ford guys can lock everything, including their keys, in their trucks because of the door key pad? Compustar pro t13 has you covered. I'm looking to do this on my Avalanche and I think this would be a great way to bring Tahiti into the future! You could even pair it up with a push button start! Finally, both Pioneer and Kenwood make head units that support wireless CarPlay and wireless Android Auto. If you wanna compete with the new trucks and SUV's... I think this is a great option! Thanks!!
Hey Matt great timing, I in the process of adding a winch to my 2000 Chevy Silverado, would this be the way to add a second battery or would I need to add anything extra? ✌️
They should be the same cca. You won't experience any issues with a different cca until the smaller cca battery runs out if photons and pixies. The dead smaller cca will keep the vehicle from starting. The law of averages.
So if I understood the video correctly, the way you wired it means it just adds extra capacity to the system. So before... if my battery died, it was obvious, I might need a jump or my lights would be weak, and you could roll up to auto zone and have them test it. How would you know if one of the batteries was going bad with this setup? Do you have to constantly check them with a volt meter? Does this put extra load on the alternator to charge the extra battery?
sir ive got one question after you hooked both of the die hard batteries together does it make it a deep cycle or marine deep cycle cause it is in parallel only added amp hours not double the volts so does it make both batteries like a hundred amp hours ? thankyou!
Just for your info. You put the wrong battery in. These trucks do have a optional aux battery. It requires a Group 48 Battery. The bracket on the top is removed during installation and then must be reinstalled. This bracket is required by law for safety in the event of an accident. Only the Group 48 battery will fit in this. Most gasoline fleet trucks we see come standard with 2 - Group 48 batteries from the factory.
I like to give the new sheet metal replacement parts and brackets a quick satin clear coat before installing them. Helps lengthen life by preventing rust better.
Be aware, on 2006 & later GM there is a meter on the ground wires that tells the alternator how much to output. So you’d need to run the second negative cable over to the drivers side and through the meter before grounding it.
I can't seem to find a video on this regarding the meter. I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 and my spare battery tray is swapped from his setup. My spare battery tray is on the driver's side and the primary on passenger side.
@@AmitroniXthe mechman alternator comes with a harness to trick that sensor and comes with better amps, 2 birds 1 stone
All you have to do is run the new wires through the negative sensor...problem solved.
Unlikely you will fit 2 runs of 0awg wire thru the current sensor.
With the two batteries wired parallel without an isolator, that sensor won't matter.....
From what I understand, if you want the trickle charge if you run ground to ground and positive to positive on both batteries, the alt will keep both juiced up.
Tahoe PPVs have the option for a second battery from factory. One to start the vehicle and the second to run the accessories. This way the vehicle always starts.
So the factory wiring has an isolator? (I'm trying to understand)
@@Theopheus same haha
No there’s no on board isolator on the ppv. There’s only a battery tray there already. I have a 2012 ppv with two optima yellow tops, isolator wired into the ignition fuse so the second battery links when the key is turned. It was for 4,000watt sound system but has saved me when the wife leaves the lights on and kills the first battery.
I have a 2017 Tahoe PPV and it came with dual batteries and an isolator. When you key on the isolator connects the second battery. This is so cops can run all their high current electronics all night with the vehicle switched off and still have a fully charged starter battery.
Great mod. I use the same Diehard Platinum AGM in my vehicles. Since the new battery cables are entirely covered with black wire loom, it’s less obvious which is POS/NEG. My solution was to carefully paint the +/- symbols on top of the battery with neon orange nail polish ($2 Walmart).
I too have done the extra battery upgrade in my 2000 and 2006 silverado. The only difference is I did use the OEM isolator that plugs into the connector that hangs by the A/C drier. The extra battery runs my amps, radios and extra lights I added while the factory battery only runs the truck. I also added a dual battery voltage gauge that shows the voltage of the 2 all the time. I will be getting the noco genius on board charger (5x2 or 10x2) in the future so they stay charged when not in use...
Have the part number for the OEM isolator?
@Travis Hamler it's only about 1500w total. But I run multiple 100w 2 way radios, emergency lights and other items confidently with the truck off and not worry about draining batteries and them not starting.
@@2009KVFD976 I came to ask him to put an isolator in and do a video. I’m wanting to do one that will run an inverter. Do you have a video of the install?
@@leeroy7057 no sir. I do not. It's not hard to do at all. I wish I did a video of it when I put it in.
Your cranking battery should ALWAYS run everything that is high current draw. Such as lights (exterior) big amps/subs.
Because the second battery should be a deep cycle to run all of the low draw items
Just completed this mod on my 2006 GMC Yukon. Had to buy some cool tools but it was worth it. My current battery was expired by 45 days, LOL. Bought 2 of the same duralast gold at AutoZone. Love it. Thanks Matt for the video.
Love the metal music on the intro. Metal head and V8 heart can get along very well.
Nice man. I’m glad we are in the same page with the Tahoe I get to see the upgrades and I can choose which to add to mine
Had no idea you could use that area for another battery, awesome. Would love to see a video about being able to use it for something like charging up cordless job site tools. I would use it so much.
For me I was just gonna put a small inverter so incase of emergency’s I can charge my drill batteries
Yes I’m looking for the exact same thing imagine for job sites and camping applications
Made comment on "rusty battery tray".
Matt listens-repairs.
Awesome.
Put a red rubber cover on that positive terminal.
that new battery on the passenger side, could run the ground to the frame, or the front of the passenger head. the positive, you can run it down by the starter, and follow the starter's positive wire all the way over to the driver's side battery. Stinger makes a dual connector that helps. its clean that way
The 2015+ models have the default battery in the passenger side and it is grounded to the frame behind the wheel liner. The auxiliary battery location for 2015-2020 models is the driver side area. Exactly the opposite.
@Parker I think they should have put the factory battery on the driver left as they did in your Tahoe, as that would make replacement a whole heck of a lot easier. However some bean counter likely figured out they'd be using more wire to do so. Also maybe something about "unsprung" weight as it's forward of the front suspension. Who knows?
@ElectroVoltBoltI think this is normal for 07-14 gm suvs and trucks, my 07 Escalade also has the battery in the passenger side but has a spot to put a battery on the driver side
My battery, is where you added the second battery. So my extra battery slot is where your battery is sitting already lol. I’ve got a 2010 avalanche lt
I made the send comment for my chevrolet tahoe two thousand fourteen.
Thanks for the idea Matt. I just completed my install tonight. This is going to pair perfectly with my 3k watt inverter I’m installing before my camping trip next week.
Look into the big 4 upgrade for rest of your charging system wiring.
I run 2k accessory power in a v6 with stock alt and a yellow top so the big 4 is a major upgrade
What is big 4?
@@VoltageAces following.
@@VoltageAces bigger alternator, battery cables, better battery and something else. I’m guessing a capacitor. We used to always say the big 3 upgrade, but I guess they added capacitor.
I just did dual batteries and 320 amp alternator and ran 4 gage to my amp that pulls 100amp by itself and that worked just fine.
You're going to want a dc-to-dc with mppt solar charge controller and a deep cycle/amp hour type battery. Then isolated to only your dash cam to the deep cycle if that's what you're trying to go for. That passenger fender firewall location is exactly where the battery is in my 07 Avalanche from the Factory, if I did this mod I would have to do it in reverse and put a battery up front, LOL
When rednecks get really into shit. 😂 Fucken space science.
Once you do add solar and/or inverter, consider the isolator to protect your engine start battery from degradation, and have all goodies added on be running off the auxiliary battery/inverter/solar. Now I need to go eyeball 'neath the hood of my Tahoe and see if I'm GTG for this mod. I already have another automotive battery waiting in the wings. Good stuff there Matt. Thank you.
Good idea, I’ll have to look into that.
@@lsxmatt how’s the new battery mod doin!!!
I plan to add the 2nd battery. I hadn't thought of a solar charging setup, that would be sweet!
The small braided ground wire that on the firewall is how your ground is getting to the starter from your new battery. Also running it to the frame will not help. The engine is only grounded to the frame with a 6 awg wire that comes off the stock battery.
Run the ground to the engine Block or to the front or back of the passenger Cylinder Head.
If your tahoe came with a battery current sensor on the main ground of the the stock battery wire. Run your new ground wire to the stock battery terminal.
If you have not cleaned your stock ground on the engine this would be a good time to do that. It's on the drivers side of the engine just follow the ground wire.
I just did the same mod on my 2004 Avalanche. Simple parallel setup. Effectively I have, instead of a 800 CCA single battery, I have a 1600 CCA battery split into 2 parts. I did ground the 2nd battery to the engine, there are several unused threaded bolt holes on the heads.
Good choice adding a second battery. In car audio, big system have two or more extra batteries just for extra reserve. A note on the isolator, if the batteries are the same chemistries, you dont need an isolator. I have a small AGM under the hood and an big H8 style in the back for my system and never had an issue. What I would say is to do is a "Big 3" wire upgrade. You'll have better charging current from the alt to keep those two batts charged much better.
Will the existing alternator handle both batteries for charging without any problems?
@@conradnerdahl127 it should but if not then you can upgrade to an Escalade alternator from 03-06 years if you have a 03-06 truck or Tahoe or suburban
In 2003 I installed a second battery on a 2002 Chevy Z71 pickup truck. I believe that I bought it from 4 wheel parts or maybe it was somewhere else. The transfer switch allowed the second battery to charge from the alternator all of the time with a manual switch for just the 2nd battery and also both batteries connected.
i never "knew" i needed a second battery but i ended up with a spare battery by accident (for free) and found this mod in 2023. this was great and explanation was brilliant! I did end up adding a battery isolator ($15 amazon purchase) just for the usage flexibility. The one use of this mode that i felt worked best for me was moving my amp wire to the second battery. i just like confusing the techs at jiffy lube when theyre trying to figure out which is the starting battery to test 🙂.
checking for an auxiliary switch to add other accessories later, that i saw in your video.
Same setup with 2 battery was done by me some time ago.
First - we have quite cheap "car batteries isolator device" integrated in to 200A relay. So battery connect to eachother only when voltage higher, than 13v for some seconds, this means only when engine is started and generator charge batteries. When engine stopped, batteries are disconnected.
Second step - DashCams connects only to second battery, thru "automatic voltage disconnector relay", if voltage drops less, that configured value (11v for me), all 24h devices will be disconnected.
This gives me insurance to start engine at any time, plus dual camera dashcam works for about a week, and, this not kill second battery, if car will stay for more time.
Thats the stock install location for if you you had the camper dual battery option or snow plow option. The factory option has a relay that isolates the second battery when vehicle us off
Only been here for the last couple of months (since I got a $1500 '01 Tahoe) so it's neat to see a video the day it was released. Been thinking about doing this anyway.
Great work Matt, really appreciate the content and I even watch the Camero videos. 😃
How’s it running I’m bout to buy a 4,000 one
@@Ericlmarwalker1 It wasn't when I got it. '01 LT 4x4, 5.3L / 4L60E with 226k. Main issues were grounds, crank position sensor and EGR valve. Now it runs smooth and still feels pretty strong. It sometimes shifts hard into 2nd, less now that the fluid is topped off. Besides most of the ground on the frame being corroded off and some rot in the rockers, it's is pretty good shape considering a hard life in rural South Dakota. I'm happy with it and it will share driving and towing duties with my '15 Sierra. I have lots of little things to do still so I'm enjoying Matt's series on his. Hope it's a good one for you if you end up with it.
I would recommend upgrading the wire from the alternator to the power block it's spaghetti thin from the factory.
The best thing to do is the big 3 upgrade. Don't take off the stock stuff just add to it both my battery connections are 9/16 bolts now, 0/4 gauge wire from alternator+ to power block, 0/4 from alternator case "top bolt on alt to ground firewall and ground firewall to -battery.
@@sogood4u489 what is the benefit of this mod for a stock vehicle? Is it just redundancy or are the lights brighter and stereo louder ?
@@johnnymissfire8464 The gauges stay brighter with headlights on, pressing the window button doesn't slow the blower motor and overall the voltage sits higher. But yes it is most beneficial if you add lights a wench or aftermarket stereo.
Correct and in addition to that when the pedal is pushed to the floor the electronic fuel pump ignition system as a whole and other aspects of the drivetrain are depending on enough voltage available to maintain full capacity or to even get up to 100% in the first place pictures of fuel pump dropping from say 13.2 V to 11.8v . It will definitely have a lesser output. In addition your transmission is 110 electronic and Depends solely on voltage to make a quick shift. Lower bolted can cause a laggy shift even if just by a sort fraction of a second can cause slippage. Minor slippage will become more noticeable slippage and then your clutches become worn in the transmission and drastically worse as time goes on. Even if the vehicle is running the alternator can only put so much a back into the battery wow that seem a maybe forced out of the battery faster than it could be energized. For this reason the immediately available amount of proper voltage is incredibly important this is why two batteries is a must for people like myself who run winches performance audio accessory lighting communicational equipment and often charge batteries for tools and inverter simultaneous to the regular vehicle operations in which the factory vehicle alternator and battery system is hardly up to par for the first place it is already at Max. Some vehicles may have a higher amperage alternator from the factory sometimes it's like a special RPO code or any electric seat warmers sunroof may have equivalent to a larger Factory alternator which is all the more reason more to use a second battery I definitely recommend using a isolator I use a better doctor 100-amp and I put all the accessories including the radio and other accessories that I take off of the main circuits of the truck basically run everything that you had to the truck that you possibly can use without it running to the second battery now put the stereo on the second battery to you don't have to put the key and use the store anymore you can flip the switch and have the truck off. Also you can start the truck without it interrupting the stereo and like in the video Even when your main battery takes a shit because you left the wire Toulouse to the ground or to the positive and it wasn't getting charged your truck will have only been running properly because of the extra battery and as well as your second battery will not be used to jump the first battery by pushing the manual button on the smart isolator which will connect the two batteries. Generally the two batteries are only connected by the isolator reaches 13 point 6 which is a full charge with running vehicle it at that point will connect the two together and charge the auxiliary battery as well
Big 3
Dude, Just 1 DieHard Platinum H7 w/ a Mechman 400amp Alt & 1/0 OFC Power Cables is a pretty serious Power Upgrade!! Alot more than most people think!
Been wanting to add a second battery for my audio system but never had the time I wanna put a optima yellow top in that location!
If you have the funds for a yellow top, just go for a xspower battery.
How has the truck been with the 2 batteries any issues? Power issues or de energized ? Planning on doing this way on my truck
Its been fine but recently my remote start app has been telling me the vehicle battery is low after sitting for more than a day. I’m planning on adding a switching solenoid for the 2nd battery soon.
Great work brother, I’ll throw one on my Escalady, thanks.
California emmisions Tahoe has the electric smog pump mounted there.
I ran my battery wire in the same spot across the firewall but hooked it directly to my other battery and a positive from each battery directly to the alternator. Also upgraded the batteries grounds to the alternator bracket, firewall and frame on both sides
But did you change the voltage regulator ?
#1 cheap mod : zip tie around the battery (+) box 👍
I swear most of us have that lol
I have that little Milwaukee impact. Such a great little gun.
Next will be 8292N253A if you haven't already. Used it in my silverado. Rockauto carries it
Just got my big 6 0 swap done Ima do this next. Just ordered the pass battery tray and isolator 💪🏾👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
Thanks for the video. I'm going to do this when I put a PlayStation in my 2003 Yukon XL.
AWESOME VIDEO. I have a 2003 Tahoe and lost a Lead Acid Bat. do to me leaving the dash cam on. So I need a new Battery and so why not two of them. VERY AWESOME OF YOU to give us links for the parts . Thank you Thank you Thank you. ---mww
I am trying to figure out where to mount a 2nd battery in a 1999 suburban. There is a secondary Air injection smog pump on the 2nd battery tray. Also it has a different configuration in the location the battery tray was installed in this video. 🤨
Salute to everyone grind, Motivations, accomplishments , families , goals.....
You read my mind with the solar panel thing I can't wait for that one
I used that same positive junction box thing when I built my 83 Z28
I have a 5000W power converter in my work van so I can run power tools and charge batteries on job sites that power isn't convent to get to. I also installed a second battery. I put a 150A fuse at the second battery then installed a digital gauge on my dash that reads directly off the second battery. If the fuse is good then it should always read about the same as the volt gauge on my dash, If the fuse is blown then I'll see that the second battery has less volts then the main battery and the alternator isn't charging it.
I live in N.E. Ohio so the extra power to start in -10 degree temp is a real bonus .
Whats up Matt. Thank you. The positive went to the big connector in the box and not the fusible link right? Stupid question but thank you. My Escalade has been sitting for 2 years. Didnt know it was a ground issue. Shes a beast again. Trying to run this second battery and this is by far the best video.
how do you lie that LED store thingy (can't tell which product it is)? i got the relay/fuse unit and a power distro unit, have to get 3 of the power units to get one where the lid tabs didn't brake imediately. Theyre customer service was great in helping get a good unit. Glad to see you giving the old some love still. Lookin' good
Awesome video Matt, been thinking about doing the same on my '06 Sierra.
When I put a higher amp alternator in my 99 Silverado, I changed out the alternator charge wire from the alternator to that junction block. I couldn't believe how thin a gauge looking they come with. I recommend putting a thicker guage wire there since it's short and easy to get to for better charging
Hey Matt nice install one thing you should run a ground wire to the battery from the other one and now run the alt wire to new battery so you are crossing the charge from one battery to the other on and have all power come off the original battery will keep the batteries balanced car stereo stuff is were I picked this up and have used it many times for winches big solar power battery banks. If you really wanted the starter to spin faster put a ground wire from the second battery to starter bolt old drag racing trick getter ground
Both batteries are grounded to the chassis. So they are both charging off the alternator.
My 07 has the battery in the spot you put the 2nd one and still has the space yours had the original if i wanted to add a 2nd one.
Thanks Matt!! Great Add. I’m gonna do it!!
Awesome video I plan on doing this mod on my well used 2002 GMC SIERRA 1500 4.3 VORTEC V6 with 408 thousands miles a well used truck for $1500 peace ✌ and much respect to you Jason 👍
Thanks Sir! Just ordered mine. !
Hey bro for future reference go with duracell agm from sams club there much cheaper and was more reserve power and way stronger cca
I want a 2nd on my 2005 Denali looks like my only option is a different style air cleaner and use that space.
My 08 GMC has that as the single battery location. Its a serious PITA design to install stall.
All Tahoe ppv's came equipped with two batteries and they make a replacement wire setup for them
@Lsxmatt What kind of box is that to the left of the brake booster and can you please make another video about the details of how you distributed and connected the cables?
Slick crimping and wire work.
The area ( drivers side) IS the secondary spot for 09 Silverado 1500 LTZ 4x4- all factory wiring runs to that passenger corner on mine🤷♂️
In my Tahoe the place where you have the second battery js where I have my main.
Awesome. Will a super start marine agm battery work in that location as well for a audio system 🤔.
The thinner gauge wire coming from that positive red plastic block to the alternator is in theory a kind of fuseable link...
That would only protect the alternator, not the rest of the vehicle. There is a smaller gauge wire from the main battery cable to the fuse block, so I guess that would act as a fuse, protecting the rest of the truck wiring.
Maybe cuz mines an 08 z71 , my factory battery location is where you just added the 2nd one on the passenger side . And similarly I have a big open spot on the driver side for a second battery. I always assumed it was like that so it could be easily converted into a police vehicle package or something along those lines.
the reason there is no fuse on the old battery is because it uses a fusible link. I would recommend putting a MEGAFUSE (20% above the rating of the alternator and holder) between the new battery and the junction where you spliced it in.
My 98 Tahoe comes with a second battery location as well. I guess because they offered a diesel option.
Whent to the yard and got mine for dual optimas under the hood three xs power xp300 for my amps inside the truck
Sorry for the typo I can spell...I use to get burned in the coments for my typo and the periods are just out of habit
As for your outlet I'd say skip it all together and do a little checking on line. The real deal 4wd warriors are hooking up diode rectifiers and solenoids to convert their alternator into a 110/220 power source. / Stick welder. They make extremely competent stick welders. You need to have someone bring the rpms up since thats how you control the output for welding thinker metals. I've got mine band I'm actually shooting for a plasma cutter built-in with a small fridge compressor converted to work with the cutter. The 2 things I want to have on me in a pinch a plasma cutter and a welder.
The second battery location is for vehicles with Onstar.My wifes Tahoe has Onstar and the battery is next to the firewall.My Suburban without Onstar has the battery up front next to radiator.
You removed the passenger side firewall to fender bracket???? Your truck is going to split in half! 🤣
The new ones actually fit over the new battery lol
I removed my brackets driver and pass side 15 years ago. No cracks or splits in the fender. Over engineered from factory.
Need to try the torch trick on your Vortech engine cover to brighten it up
What is this trick
Your videos are so satisfying to my ocd
Matt I'm late to this rodeo but 07 and up yukons have the battery in the right rear.
Oops right rear of the engine bay.
Some of the trucks actually have a connection ready for a relay and a second battery, just gotta plug it all in
My 2007 GMC Denali has a single side battery under the passenger side cowling. I have to remove the little 90* brace when I remove the battery
I would get a bigger alternator as well because while the factory one can charge both batteries it will burn itself out doing it.
The the stock is like a 105, upgrade to the 145 just requires a slightly longer belt.
Assuming he had the power draw. Odds are it wont, the dual batteries help with spikes like in shifting (computer demands more power to engage shifts etc). Itll only pull more power to charge it otherwise the pull is the same as it has been once its charged. You just created double the Capacity. Basically ita like adding an extra fuel tank to your boat. You boat wont burn more fuel cause you didnt change the engine. Itll just run longer before fueling up. Same concept as two batteries, IF he leaves the key off he can have a longer duration to run stereos charge phones etc. The pull or "Fuel intake" is the same until he adds lights or a huge stereo.
@@nasty3145 I did this upgrade on my dad's 2014 Silverado because the electric steering would draw so much power.
😂 Just change the voltage regulator.
Not the whole alternator.
I would do a slightly larger alternator maybe a 170 if you're running stock. And definitely would do the big three upgrade with one ought cable. Make sure it's oxygen free copper as well not copper clad aluminum as copper clad aluminum one ought is basically the same as 4 gauge copper.
Not sure why but on my gmt900 silverado the main battery was in that location with not sure the name but power distribution box? mounted on the firewall not sure why they changed from the front to back.
Don't need the tool. I just fill the ends with solder and stick the wire in. That's what I do and haven't had any issue.
I use to do it that way until I had to make a bunch of wire ends for my trans am. The crimper is so easy I just use that now.
@@lsxmatt ya. If it's something your doing all the time then the tool would be nice just for speed sakes.
Definitely can't wait for the solar installation!
That would be a good spot to have if you have a system in your truck.
So how long did it take you to realize the hood is hitting the battery and lifted up slightly on the passenger side?
My Suburban has 2 main power wires for the starter and Accessories.
If you install a dual battery isolator, would you want to keep the starter battery on one and move the Accessory wire over to the 2nd battery?
I see the stud for the hood light, how well does that work? Ironically I bought the light and battery tray at the same time lol
Yeaaahh buddy. Nice. Just ordered a go rhino push Bar for mine from jegs
My 2007 has the battery already where you installed yours. I need to add a 2nd to the place your 1rst battery is
Same here. 2007 Chevy Avalanche
If those batteries are not "sealed", water will leak off the cowl onto the battery causing the acid to overfill a kill your battery. I know this by experience and you can find it talked about in forums. I covered my aux battery with stick on heat shield so water will run off.
Without that bracket it won't run lol 😆 😂 🤣 that was funny man
That 2nd battery location is a factory location for the battery in my sisters 2007 Tahoe.
same with my 09. The passenger side near the firewall is where the one and only battery is.
I just did the batter in my 02 Tahoe last week.
I noticed today my 06 Silverado already had the second battery tray. Not sure if they just used the bracket they had when they built it or if it was actually optioned for a second battery. No sign of one ever being installed though.
Hey Matt! Firstly, I love your videos and I can't wait to see where you take Tahiti. I know you've been looking for some modernization ideas and I have an option for you that would be awesome. Passive keyless entry... you walk up (key in pocket) doors unlock. You walk away, doors lock. Also, ever been jealous of how Ford guys can lock everything, including their keys, in their trucks because of the door key pad? Compustar pro t13 has you covered. I'm looking to do this on my Avalanche and I think this would be a great way to bring Tahiti into the future! You could even pair it up with a push button start! Finally, both Pioneer and Kenwood make head units that support wireless CarPlay and wireless Android Auto. If you wanna compete with the new trucks and SUV's... I think this is a great option! Thanks!!
Thanks for the tip, I might have to do that!
Hey Matt great timing, I in the process of adding a winch to my 2000 Chevy Silverado, would this be the way to add a second battery or would I need to add anything extra? ✌️
Probably the same since it is the same platform
Been running 2 batteries for over a year now without an issue of any kind with no isolator and two totally different kinds of batteries
They should be the same cca. You won't experience any issues with a different cca until the smaller cca battery runs out if photons and pixies. The dead smaller cca will keep the vehicle from starting. The law of averages.
No problems at all
Maybe I’m just lucky
@@tonkabot420 did you upgrade the alternator wire? Curious to know
So if I understood the video correctly, the way you wired it means it just adds extra capacity to the system. So before... if my battery died, it was obvious, I might need a jump or my lights would be weak, and you could roll up to auto zone and have them test it.
How would you know if one of the batteries was going bad with this setup? Do you have to constantly check them with a volt meter?
Does this put extra load on the alternator to charge the extra battery?
sir ive got one question after you hooked both of the die hard batteries together does it make it a deep cycle or marine deep cycle cause it is in parallel only added amp hours not double the volts so does it make both batteries like a hundred amp hours ? thankyou!
Just for your info. You put the wrong battery in. These trucks do have a optional aux battery. It requires a Group 48 Battery. The bracket on the top is removed during installation and then must be reinstalled. This bracket is required by law for safety in the event of an accident. Only the Group 48 battery will fit in this. Most gasoline fleet trucks we see come standard with 2 - Group 48 batteries from the factory.
Thanks for this video! It answered my question!
Front end of the vehicle is going to break in half....LMAO!!! Great video thank you!
What's the black box above the hydroboost unit hanging from the cowl.