Been a watcher of yours for a couple years but just got my first Tahoe a couple weeks ago, an '02 with just over 101k on the ODO. Just here to say im absolutely loving binging the Tahiti playlist & cheers from just over the Kill in Jersey!
There aren’t a whole lot of people that work on Escalades on here (that I can find) so I always use your videos as a base when working on my 02. I really appreciate you making these videos!
@@todddann3134 as in the wood finish and leather? The only thing I would do to a Tahoe is give it that 3rd brake light. The big bar that’s sits on the top of the cargo door. But I’ve never had a Tahoe only my 02 Escalade lol. Hope it works for ya!
@@zed366891 yeah wood finish. Interchangeability , entire dash, interior door panels, caddy logo etc. I saw somewhere theres a kit to install pillar tail lights on tahoe. Can't for the life when we find it right now
@@todddann3134 hell ya that all would be awesome. Most of the shit specifically for 02 Escalades are discontinued, might just go to a junkyard and get those parts off some old caddy’s there
Definitely great preventative maintenance. My front connector cracked and was leaking on my coil pack so I had a misfire every time I restarted after short trips. Great video
On my fronts, I basically did what you did on the rear. I put the hose straight to the plastic T and hose clamped on. Never a single problem out of them after a few years living in the southeast. I am glad I found this video, I need to check out my rears. Since the fronts both blew apart and crumbled, I expect the rears will be going out any day now as well.
I replaced my heater quik connects with y-connectors i bought from ebay had to wait for them to come from China yuk!...but couldn't find them in that size anywhere spliced some new heater hose to the factory assembly with some metal clamps and viola!...never better also upgraded all my vehicles to drilled and slotted rotors and they look and perform fabulously!...great videos man!...keep em coming!
I did the same to the front heater core that you did the the back one. Scrapped the quick disconnects and pushed hose over the lip and clamped it down. It has not leaked since.
Dorman makes a aluminum Y piece { Dorman 47157 Coolant Hose Junction } to repace the the plastic one that goes to waterpump. No need to replace hoses... Just cut them off as close to the Y as possible on the 2 longer ones but the short piece that goes to waterpump needs to be broken out and cleaned. I just did mine a month ago with no issues so far.
I replaced front heater quick connects right before I drove it to Disney World. Heard far too many stories about these failing. Sure enough, it literally crumbled apart when I went to go change it out. I didn't even know they had them in the rear as well. I need to look under there and check/replace them!!
I just love these Tahoe videos you make. They are really great. I have followed since the first vid with Tahiti, and you are doing a great job on the car and the videos.
My wife has an 05 Tahoe and your channel has helped me solve many issues with it. Thank you so much Matt! I’ve seen you use dorman parts I’ve had good and bad luck with them was just wondering your opinion on this company? Thanks again.
Dorman is OEM grade. That's good and bad. At minimum, the parts will hold up as good as factory and sometimes they beef things up. However, their stuff isn't an upgrade.
Ive been looking for the part number for the fittings on the firewall heating system thank you. I had to do a field repair on one barb it broke on the way back from the keys.
I had the power stop rotors on my ‘03 Tahoe. All four corners. They looked good, even felt like they stopped better. About a year later they disintegrated from the inside out. Rust. I’ll never trust them again. YMMV. Don’t forget to do the break-in. Man is that fun.
So something to point out. I have a 2001 Tahoe LS 5.3V , over 400K. I came across thinking I needed to change the CV Joints, thankfully I didn't have to, but come to learn that the ones on her are not able to be purchased at any of the COMMERCIAL Stores (i.e. NAPA, AUTOZONE, ADVANCE and O'Reilly). They are GM Specific and run about 500+ each, Sucks but it is what it is. Just wanted to drop that in the bag. I did find a shop that dose rebuild them.
I broke the left one that tees into the rear heater core while trying to remove the rear bolt that secures the passenger side coil pack rack. $100 later I fixed it via Oreillys. Interior heater cores are trash. Btw Dorman makes a metal version of that Y heater hose. It was the source of a leak that made me replace every hose on that side of the engine until I found it.
I am loving these videos like this! I just bought a 2002 Suburban...just a longer version, and am watching stuff like this to make sure the truck is reliable for my family and I to take on road trips
A useful tip from your friends over in the Ford Expedition Club. Brass Tee fittings are cheap, easy to use and will handle any temperature your truck can throw at them. We use them on our First Gen Expeditions when the stock Rear Heater Tees fail due to being plastic Quick Connect crap too. Can't recall the size offhand, but it' either 5/8 or 3/4". Mine haven't yet failed, but when they do, it's getting a cooling system overhaul with brass fittings and silicone hose throughout. Life is too short to be futzing around with stuff that's designed to fail.
The only issues I can see with using generic brass fittings are 1) using brass is that it's being used in a system with a dissimilar metal, aluminum, 2) size of fittings may have differing/non-compliant inside diameters that could restrict flow. But that's just me nitpicking. I've read conflicting info on whether dex-cool coolant functions as an electrolyte after a period of time where corrosion would then come into play. I bought 2 of these billet aluminum tees from this site which are built for purpose, but they were expensive (about $100 each): www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/
@@grantgeorgia7168 Those are good points, but household/commercial plumbing fittings are under RoHS regulations to be chemically inert with water. Plus, cars in the 70s used brass and copper in their radiators instead of aluminum. Material leaching aside, I don't think it would be a big issue. As far as GM is concerned, they've been going more and more down the "reinvent the wheel" road by designing failure into every product such as on the plastic fittings in question. Every other car out there uses regular amino acid free coolant, there's no reason why a Bush-era Tahoe couldn't either. Coolant should be changed every 1-3 years anyway per almost every car's Service Schedule in the Owner's Manual.
I used similar looking brass hose connectors on my old suburban's rear heater hoses and they always leaked. I tightened the clamps weekly. It was as if someone loosened them. Hopefully you have better luck. Love your videos!
I did this yesterday replaced both t disconnects but did not attach the end connects as I could not get either one to click. Are the ends really necessary?
If your aftermarket axles are anything like the ones I bought back in 2018, all the grease will fling itself out after a couple years. I'm just waiting for my axles to go before I go back to AC Delco for 3x the price.
I used brass tees to replace the crappy plastic quick-connect tees at the engine bay heater core, as well. Those Dorman ones might not last you more than a few years but I've also had the AC Delco versions break. It's a little busy with with hose clamps at the firewall and I recommend getting heavier hose clamps that you can really tighten down. It's only been 2 years but it's holding good so far for me.
@@justinvanwijk716 sorry I missed your question--I actually just used a Sharkbite tee fitting from the hardware store. I can't recall the size but it requires also using 3 short sections of heater hose and six hose clamps. I used a union for the return to the water pump hose--I'll probalby replace that entire line at a future point.
For some reason the back caliper sliders always seize up destroying one pad and that side of the rotor.The other pad sits there doing nothing .This was with new brake hard lines (thanks GM) and stainless flex hose. I'm down the road in the same crappy weather and salt so maybe that's part of it but sliders will be operating room clean and new high temp grease goes in anytime the calipers come off!
I went with power stop kit for my lift 03 Tahoe. Did there complete kit with new calibers. With 22x12 and 35”s and 6inch lift. Brakes 1000 times better than with the stock set up.
Matt, I have watched all of your videos ref. Tahiti. Very helpful to me with my 2006 Tahoe that I now call Sir Leaks Alot. So far I have fixed power steering hose, transmission oil pan and wiper tank reservoir leaks. Now concerned with a coolant leak. I see coolant leaking from above the bellhousing on the passenger side dripping down the the bellhousing. I can't find the source of the coolant leak. Can you give me any suggestions. I really like this Tahoe and want to drive and enjoy it without fear of coolant leaks. Looks just like Tahiti, keep the Tahoe videos coming!
Awesome content a usual. I've been restoring an 05 Tahoe for my daughter and have followed your tutorials the whole way. QQ - would it be crazy to just replace every hose and the water pump as PM? Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks for all your great work!
@@lsxmatt to get you brakes to wear evenly grease your slide pins for the calipers. They allow the calipers to apply weight evenly to both brake pads. You'll see they have bolts on the back side of the caliper and the bolts have a rubber boot that's flexible. You just pull the bolts and the bolt hole ontop of the boots and grease inside the boot after you clean the burnt grease out
Awesome Matt. I have a Sierra 1500 and am getting the power stop complete front brake kit with calipers. My caliper was sticking so decided just going to do the whole thing. Awesome you just did this video since I’ll be doing mine this weekend. Great video buddy
@@burnham187 Nah, haven't gotten a 100% confirm if the 6 pistons fit my wheels yet. Putting the brakes off another year until I get some different wheels or someone finds out lol I got some other stuff to do anyways that will improve braking way more so it isn't a big deal to me.
@@shakenfake Yes I am going with a cheap brake kit as I also will be upgrading to larger wheels in the future so no reason to go all out till then. Just something to get me by in the mean time.
Answer to the problem I have. One my hoses in the rear is cut and both are capped off on the front. No rear heat and probably why my freon was leaking in the rear
Yeah, my "Y" cracked before the quick connects gave me trouble at 195k. Now at 206k I think one of my roller lifters are squeaking on my 05 Suburban 🤦♂️
I seriously thought you were replacing the fuel injectors. Wow 8 watched the whole video. I've done the heater core quick disconnect already. And I do need to do my brakes all around. I'm hopping you left us parts list. Thank you... I need the brakes for all 4 wheels. Maybe amazon. Summit is too expensive
Those heater core connectors are so annoying especially after they age and break. I had to pry them off with a flat head screwdriver and I think I stabbed my hand several times. (Edit had to fix a spelling error) I had them break on me when I was living at my college last year which now I'm graduated but luckily I was right around the corner and had extra coolant just to make it there and in a parking spot and didn't overheat it. I wish GM personally made metal extension t fittings that lock on with special locking tabs. Another thing I do have to address if you do install new backing plates for the rear make sure you bend them away from the rotors!!! I had a shop install them because I had to get a whole new rear end put in and they did not do that so everytime I went into a corner the rotors would just touch making that annoying scraping noise. Now I did fix it to my best of my abilities from time to time they slightly do but it's not as noticable. After finding your channel and watching what parts I should replace or upgrade gave me new ideas on how I want to build mine while being on a budget. Keep up the great work and hope to see more content soon. Rn I got catching up to do on this series.
Maybe your viewers would know why I seem to have an intermittent no start? I had the cam position sensor reading low voltage so I swapped it, got a bad unit I assume because the truck went to giving high voltage and throwing a code on that circuit. After I got it swapped again, it seems to function, but intermittently it'll just sit and crank until the relay clicks off. The second turn of the key almost always makes it fire right up. It's getting fuel since it'll backfire while you crank on it sometimes, obviously getting spark to be backfiring. Any idea where to go from here? I want er to fire up the first time everytime like it did a few short months ago. I hesitate to assume the sensor is still bad? What else can I check?
It’s pretty funny I just had to replace that lower elbow on the cooling lines that you left alone on my dad‘s 2007 GMC sierra literally like two days ago because it developed a hairline crack that was spewing antifreeze up onto the engine block right at the head bolts making us think it was a head gasket luckily it wasn’t. I appreciate you making these videos man they have been a big help to me and my family keep up the great work!!
I had the Z36 on my Dodge Journey w/ the small brakes (early 2011). It was chewing through OE pads/rotors and the PowerStop stuff fixed it. They can be a touch noisy when cold but after the first stop or two they are quiet.
I couldn't find that hose you used for the rear with all the part numbers do you have a link? Great fix by the way; stupid GM doesn't sell those quick connectors for the rear.
Hello Friend how are you? I have a 2005 tahoe and on the dashboard it tells me gear control service, I have no idea what is wrong I hope you can give me an idea, thanks
Dorman makes metal connectors for the hoses to your heater core, should get those instead and you'll never have to worry about that plastic breaking, there is also a Y connector made of metal, to replace that common Y plastic connector that cracks also, i found it on Rock Auto.
What plugs do you run in the lsa supercharged iron??? Tr6ix/Tr7ix/br7ef, or delco? If so what number, I can’t seem to find a plug that makes my lsa 370 happy, tuner said put in br7ef gapped at .022…… thing ran like crap so I put the ngk tr6v plugs back in gapped at .030 , but I still don’t think that’s right either, that’s why I ask what plugs you run and at what gap?…….how is the LT firebird coming along, we haven’t seen her in a minute!!!
Those white ones seem to brake more often then the black ones so I put 2 black ones on my 2004 suburban at 285k I bought a 210 suburban first thing I did was get rid of those plastic connectors and put brass Ts and did away with that plastic crap
Sometimes eating up of brakes is the driver’s style... LOL But seriously I put power stop rotors and pads on my silverado back in October. Same truck/ tow kit you have and so far they’re rust free even with a few real good snow storms and they throw the damn salt down here. Like bad. Even had one day where it was raining and I ended up behind a plow truck was dumping salt. Still rust free rotors
NJ likes to salt @ 40 degrees ever since the idiot in trenton got called out after the state got shut down from a november snow storm .He is so thin skinned he salts the roads before a 38* and rain forecast . Not his money or car!
I thought that hose issue was a Ford problem. Do you drive your SUV to the point that it needs drilled rotors and ceramic brake pads? If you do, you might consider jetting that ABS . Then when you lock them brakes up, the wheels quit turning, and I don’t mean maybe.
That plastic y sucks. Rock auto has one with metal. I bought it. It's great. Definitely do it. The fire wall t's suck. 1 failed then I broke the damn other one replacing the first. Had to walk my ass to get another. Really wish there was a way to bypass that with something not chinese plastic.
![Tee Grizzley - Detroit (Feat. 42 Dugg) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aeKfTtt0x14/mqdefault.jpg)
Been a watcher of yours for a couple years but just got my first Tahoe a couple weeks ago, an '02 with just over 101k on the ODO. Just here to say im absolutely loving binging the Tahiti playlist & cheers from just over the Kill in Jersey!
There aren’t a whole lot of people that work on Escalades on here (that I can find) so I always use your videos as a base when working on my 02. I really appreciate you making these videos!
I want to put the escalade interior in my tahoe. See how many people notice
@@todddann3134 as in the wood finish and leather? The only thing I would do to a Tahoe is give it that 3rd brake light. The big bar that’s sits on the top of the cargo door. But I’ve never had a Tahoe only my 02 Escalade lol. Hope it works for ya!
@@zed366891 yeah wood finish. Interchangeability , entire dash, interior door panels, caddy logo etc. I saw somewhere theres a kit to install pillar tail lights on tahoe. Can't for the life when we find it right now
@@todddann3134 hell ya that all would be awesome. Most of the shit specifically for 02 Escalades are discontinued, might just go to a junkyard and get those parts off some old caddy’s there
Same! I just bought an 02 escalade ext and hardly anyone works on them lol
Definitely great preventative maintenance. My front connector cracked and was leaking on my coil pack so I had a misfire every time I restarted after short trips. Great video
On my fronts, I basically did what you did on the rear. I put the hose straight to the plastic T and hose clamped on. Never a single problem out of them after a few years living in the southeast. I am glad I found this video, I need to check out my rears. Since the fronts both blew apart and crumbled, I expect the rears will be going out any day now as well.
Did the same on my 06 when it began leaking. Working like a champ.
I replaced my heater quik connects with y-connectors i bought from ebay had to wait for them to come from China yuk!...but couldn't find them in that size anywhere spliced some new heater hose to the factory assembly with some metal clamps and viola!...never better also upgraded all my vehicles to drilled and slotted rotors and they look and perform fabulously!...great videos man!...keep em coming!
Hi Nathaniel, I'm looking to do the save as you. Do you have a link for that y connector? Thank you.
I did the same to the front heater core that you did the the back one. Scrapped the quick disconnects and pushed hose over the lip and clamped it down. It has not leaked since.
Dorman makes a aluminum Y piece { Dorman 47157 Coolant Hose Junction } to repace the the plastic one that goes to waterpump. No need to replace hoses... Just cut them off as close to the Y as possible on the 2 longer ones but the short piece that goes to waterpump needs to be broken out and cleaned. I just did mine a month ago with no issues so far.
I replaced front heater quick connects right before I drove it to Disney World. Heard far too many stories about these failing. Sure enough, it literally crumbled apart when I went to go change it out. I didn't even know they had them in the rear as well. I need to look under there and check/replace them!!
I just love these Tahoe videos you make. They are really great. I have followed since the first vid with Tahiti, and you are doing a great job on the car and the videos.
My wife has an 05 Tahoe and your channel has helped me solve many issues with it. Thank you so much Matt! I’ve seen you use dorman parts I’ve had good and bad luck with them was just wondering your opinion on this company? Thanks again.
Dorman is OEM grade. That's good and bad. At minimum, the parts will hold up as good as factory and sometimes they beef things up. However, their stuff isn't an upgrade.
Always go acdelco if it's available
Ive been looking for the part number for the fittings on the firewall heating system thank you. I had to do a field repair on one barb it broke on the way back from the keys.
I had the power stop rotors on my ‘03 Tahoe. All four corners. They looked good, even felt like they stopped better. About a year later they disintegrated from the inside out. Rust. I’ll never trust them again. YMMV. Don’t forget to do the break-in. Man is that fun.
So something to point out. I have a 2001 Tahoe LS 5.3V , over 400K. I came across thinking I needed to change the CV Joints, thankfully I didn't have to, but come to learn that the ones on her are not able to be purchased at any of the COMMERCIAL Stores (i.e. NAPA, AUTOZONE, ADVANCE and O'Reilly). They are GM Specific and run about 500+ each, Sucks but it is what it is. Just wanted to drop that in the bag. I did find a shop that dose rebuild them.
I broke the left one that tees into the rear heater core while trying to remove the rear bolt that secures the passenger side coil pack rack. $100 later I fixed it via Oreillys. Interior heater cores are trash. Btw Dorman makes a metal version of that Y heater hose. It was the source of a leak that made me replace every hose on that side of the engine until I found it.
Wow that's exactly what happened to me earlier today. Reached over to get that awkward bolt and knocked the hose out.
5:01 holy wheel weights Batman
I am loving these videos like this! I just bought a 2002 Suburban...just a longer version, and am watching stuff like this to make sure the truck is reliable for my family and I to take on road trips
A useful tip from your friends over in the Ford Expedition Club. Brass Tee fittings are cheap, easy to use and will handle any temperature your truck can throw at them. We use them on our First Gen Expeditions when the stock Rear Heater Tees fail due to being plastic Quick Connect crap too. Can't recall the size offhand, but it' either 5/8 or 3/4". Mine haven't yet failed, but when they do, it's getting a cooling system overhaul with brass fittings and silicone hose throughout. Life is too short to be futzing around with stuff that's designed to fail.
YES!!! I did that on my GMC.
The only issues I can see with using generic brass fittings are 1) using brass is that it's being used in a system with a dissimilar metal, aluminum, 2) size of fittings may have differing/non-compliant inside diameters that could restrict flow. But that's just me nitpicking. I've read conflicting info on whether dex-cool coolant functions as an electrolyte after a period of time where corrosion would then come into play.
I bought 2 of these billet aluminum tees from this site which are built for purpose, but they were expensive (about $100 each): www.gruvenparts.com/billet-gm-heater-core-coolant-tees/
@@grantgeorgia7168 Those are good points, but household/commercial plumbing fittings are under RoHS regulations to be chemically inert with water. Plus, cars in the 70s used brass and copper in their radiators instead of aluminum. Material leaching aside, I don't think it would be a big issue. As far as GM is concerned, they've been going more and more down the "reinvent the wheel" road by designing failure into every product such as on the plastic fittings in question. Every other car out there uses regular amino acid free coolant, there's no reason why a Bush-era Tahoe couldn't either. Coolant should be changed every 1-3 years anyway per almost every car's Service Schedule in the Owner's Manual.
The Astra has odd clamps at the heater core as well. Those hoses were NLA for a long time but are available again.
I used similar looking brass hose connectors on my old suburban's rear heater hoses and they always leaked. I tightened the clamps weekly. It was as if someone loosened them. Hopefully you have better luck. Love your videos!
I did this yesterday replaced both t disconnects but did not attach the end connects as I could not get either one to click. Are the ends really necessary?
I always recommend lubing between the bracket and the hardware. Prevents rust jacking.
You should look to see if they make metal ones I know on 3.8L Buick‘s they make metal replacements for the heater core part #47065HP
If your aftermarket axles are anything like the ones I bought back in 2018, all the grease will fling itself out after a couple years. I'm just waiting for my axles to go before I go back to AC Delco for 3x the price.
Literally came across this video not even that long ago and the heater hoses took a shit on me you were right and I should’ve listened lol
I used brass tees to replace the crappy plastic quick-connect tees at the engine bay heater core, as well. Those Dorman ones might not last you more than a few years but I've also had the AC Delco versions break. It's a little busy with with hose clamps at the firewall and I recommend getting heavier hose clamps that you can really tighten down. It's only been 2 years but it's holding good so far for me.
Hey Alan, do you happen to have a link for the brass version?
@@justinvanwijk716 sorry I missed your question--I actually just used a Sharkbite tee fitting from the hardware store. I can't recall the size but it requires also using 3 short sections of heater hose and six hose clamps. I used a union for the return to the water pump hose--I'll probalby replace that entire line at a future point.
You can just cut that Y fitting out and use a Brass Y like you did with those barbed fittings, i did that on my 05
I had to replace that "Y" hose, it had a hairline crack and I could not find where it was leaking, until it got worse lol
Your editing is top notch! Very entertaining. Can't wait to see what happens when the snow clears out.
I replaced my lines and the connectors from Amazon for another $30 or so
Did you say "where's my hand"? ... Lol, ultimate tool searching catchphase
I had those cheap plastic heater core connectors break on both of my Oldsmobile Aleros too 😒.
For some reason the back caliper sliders always seize up destroying one pad and that side of the rotor.The other pad sits there doing nothing .This was with new brake hard lines (thanks GM) and stainless flex hose. I'm down the road in the same crappy weather and salt so maybe that's part of it but sliders will be operating room clean and new high temp grease goes in anytime the calipers come off!
i swear, I could watch Tahiti content all day. Great content.
I went with power stop kit for my lift 03 Tahoe. Did there complete kit with new calibers. With 22x12 and 35”s and 6inch lift. Brakes 1000 times better than with the stock set up.
you just had to ruin it with 22s
I just noticed on this video that you took off the Z71 plastic from the Tahoe. Do you have a detailed video on that process?
Matt, I have watched all of your videos ref. Tahiti. Very helpful to me with my 2006 Tahoe that I now call Sir Leaks Alot. So far I have fixed power steering hose, transmission oil pan and wiper tank reservoir leaks. Now concerned with a coolant leak. I see coolant leaking from above the bellhousing on the passenger side dripping down the the bellhousing. I can't find the source of the coolant leak. Can you give me any suggestions. I really like this Tahoe and want to drive and enjoy it without fear of coolant leaks. Looks just like Tahiti, keep the Tahoe videos coming!
The powerstops are amazing. Have them on my tahoe, had them on an is300
Dude I love ur videos, I’m not an American car guy, but ur vids are so awesome and informative. Thanks
Awesome content a usual. I've been restoring an 05 Tahoe for my daughter and have followed your tutorials the whole way. QQ - would it be crazy to just replace every hose and the water pump as PM? Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks for all your great work!
Not crazy at all, might as well do it all!
@@lsxmatt to get you brakes to wear evenly grease your slide pins for the calipers. They allow the calipers to apply weight evenly to both brake pads. You'll see they have bolts on the back side of the caliper and the bolts have a rubber boot that's flexible. You just pull the bolts and the bolt hole ontop of the boots and grease inside the boot after you clean the burnt grease out
What steel braided lines did you use?
I really thought you were going to install the billet quick disconnect
Awesome Matt. I have a Sierra 1500 and am getting the power stop complete front brake kit with calipers. My caliper was sticking so decided just going to do the whole thing. Awesome you just did this video since I’ll be doing mine this weekend. Great video buddy
I see you....
@@shakenfake Did you decide on your kit yet?
@@burnham187 Nah, haven't gotten a 100% confirm if the 6 pistons fit my wheels yet. Putting the brakes off another year until I get some different wheels or someone finds out lol
I got some other stuff to do anyways that will improve braking way more so it isn't a big deal to me.
@@shakenfake Yes I am going with a cheap brake kit as I also will be upgrading to larger wheels in the future so no reason to go all out till then. Just something to get me by in the mean time.
Answer to the problem I have. One my hoses in the rear is cut and both are capped off on the front. No rear heat and probably why my freon was leaking in the rear
Loves these Tahoe videos! Keep up the good work! Glad I found this channel!
Yeah, my "Y" cracked before the quick connects gave me trouble at 195k. Now at 206k I think one of my roller lifters are squeaking on my 05 Suburban 🤦♂️
I seriously thought you were replacing the fuel injectors. Wow 8 watched the whole video. I've done the heater core quick disconnect already. And I do need to do my brakes all around. I'm hopping you left us parts list. Thank you... I need the brakes for all 4 wheels. Maybe amazon. Summit is too expensive
Those heater core connectors are so annoying especially after they age and break. I had to pry them off with a flat head screwdriver and I think I stabbed my hand several times. (Edit had to fix a spelling error) I had them break on me when I was living at my college last year which now I'm graduated but luckily I was right around the corner and had extra coolant just to make it there and in a parking spot and didn't overheat it. I wish GM personally made metal extension t fittings that lock on with special locking tabs. Another thing I do have to address if you do install new backing plates for the rear make sure you bend them away from the rotors!!! I had a shop install them because I had to get a whole new rear end put in and they did not do that so everytime I went into a corner the rotors would just touch making that annoying scraping noise. Now I did fix it to my best of my abilities from time to time they slightly do but it's not as noticable. After finding your channel and watching what parts I should replace or upgrade gave me new ideas on how I want to build mine while being on a budget. Keep up the great work and hope to see more content soon. Rn I got catching up to do on this series.
Maybe your viewers would know why I seem to have an intermittent no start? I had the cam position sensor reading low voltage so I swapped it, got a bad unit I assume because the truck went to giving high voltage and throwing a code on that circuit. After I got it swapped again, it seems to function, but intermittently it'll just sit and crank until the relay clicks off. The second turn of the key almost always makes it fire right up. It's getting fuel since it'll backfire while you crank on it sometimes, obviously getting spark to be backfiring. Any idea where to go from here? I want er to fire up the first time everytime like it did a few short months ago. I hesitate to assume the sensor is still bad? What else can I check?
Man my brother went through this.couldn't find the leak for at least 2 weeks on his GMC yukon
Thanks Matt!
Looking for the video when he replaced the bow tie emblem .
Lol of course your fittings come right off! Took me nearly 2 hours to get mine off!
I feel i should stop every tahoe i see on the road and make sure they are aware of these things
Advance autoparts has the heater hose for like 40 bucks with an aluminum y fitting.
It’s pretty funny I just had to replace that lower elbow on the cooling lines that you left alone on my dad‘s 2007 GMC sierra literally like two days ago because it developed a hairline crack that was spewing antifreeze up onto the engine block right at the head bolts making us think it was a head gasket luckily it wasn’t. I appreciate you making these videos man they have been a big help to me and my family keep up the great work!!
Rock Auto has the upgrade aluminum hose
All the more reasons to have tools & zip ties in every vehicle 😅
I was thinking this was going to be the aluminum ones I saw on rockauto but I mean those plastic ones lasted for like 20 years so probably fine
Hey Matt , why didn’t you go with the extended travel axles? I just bought some for my 02 Tahoe that has leveling keys.
I had no idea those were a thing until I was linking the parts for this video! If these fail thats what I’m going to do
I had the Z36 on my Dodge Journey w/ the small brakes (early 2011). It was chewing through OE pads/rotors and the PowerStop stuff fixed it. They can be a touch noisy when cold but after the first stop or two they are quiet.
If my T piece isn’t broken can I just change the hoses and connector piece? I’m having the problem of placing the hose back on.
I couldn't find that hose you used for the rear with all the part numbers do you have a link? Great fix by the way; stupid GM doesn't sell those quick connectors for the rear.
Mine did the same thing, do you happen to have the link to the brass fittings?
They all do this. Just did my 05 tahoe.
Just had to do that on mine it blew coolant everywhere
Hello Friend how are you? I have a 2005 tahoe and on the dashboard it tells me gear control service, I have no idea what is wrong I hope you can give me an idea, thanks
What kind of rims are thosevis what id like to know
Dorman makes metal connectors for the hoses to your heater core, should get those instead and you'll never have to worry about that plastic breaking, there is also a Y connector made of metal, to replace that common Y plastic connector that cracks also, i found it on Rock Auto.
That why on the the water pump blew apart on me backing outta a gas station annoying
What plugs do you run in the lsa supercharged iron??? Tr6ix/Tr7ix/br7ef, or delco? If so what number, I can’t seem to find a plug that makes my lsa 370 happy, tuner said put in br7ef gapped at .022…… thing ran like crap so I put the ngk tr6v plugs back in gapped at .030 , but I still don’t think that’s right either, that’s why I ask what plugs you run and at what gap?…….how is the LT firebird coming along, we haven’t seen her in a minute!!!
Matt with the Segue! Nice.
Part # Dorman 626 538 engine heater hose.
The ones by the fire wall are fun. 05 Tahoe with 320000
Those white ones seem to brake more often then the black ones so I put 2 black ones on my 2004 suburban at 285k I bought a 210 suburban first thing I did was get rid of those plastic connectors and put brass Ts and did away with that plastic crap
Love the Tahoe videos, already know how do most of this stuff but enjoy watching. Keep them coming!
You’re shitting me. There’s two more of these I have to deal with. I just dealt with the front ones that left me stranded😂
Driving the Camaro to the store in the winter, hopefully they don't use brine in NY like they do in WI
Great video Matt
PEX fittings?
I miss the beast. Miss Piggy doesn't compare.
Great vid
Hey man what wheels and specs are you running
I snapped the white one in half cleaning part of the engine lmao
You would make a cool neighbor.
Matt! Who the hell balanced those wheels!
What bumper stop is that
Sometimes eating up of brakes is the driver’s style... LOL
But seriously I put power stop rotors and pads on my silverado back in October. Same truck/ tow kit you have and so far they’re rust free even with a few real good snow storms and they throw the damn salt down here. Like bad. Even had one day where it was raining and I ended up behind a plow truck was dumping salt. Still rust free rotors
NJ likes to salt @ 40 degrees ever since the idiot in trenton got called out after the state got shut down from a november snow storm .He is so thin skinned he salts the roads before a 38* and rain forecast . Not his money or car!
Oh my God it feels so good to hear the camaro again
Your gonna like my next video then👍
@@lsxmatt I can't wait man
When r u going 2 do a live video where u could answer questions on the live chat comments?
What’s that steering wheel
I thought that hose issue was a Ford problem. Do you drive your SUV to the point that it needs drilled rotors and ceramic brake pads? If you do, you might consider jetting that ABS . Then when you lock them brakes up, the wheels quit turning, and I don’t mean maybe.
I deleted my rear heat/ac and lost the plastic connectors up front.
What ya do with your old shocks?!?! I ll buy them from you!!
Piss off i called dibs a while back
That plastic y sucks. Rock auto has one with metal. I bought it. It's great. Definitely do it. The fire wall t's suck. 1 failed then I broke the damn other one replacing the first. Had to walk my ass to get another. Really wish there was a way to bypass that with something not chinese plastic.
Wait... drum brakes and calipers? 🤔 thats a thing?
Also if you don't do the break in procedure with these you'll void the warranty.
At least Rain Man shows how the repairs done you just keep everything what’s the point he didn’t show us how to do it
I just removed all that garbage plastic and clamped to the stainless steel 😆
Bro you could use a bigger garage 😳🤣✌🍺🇺🇸
Stop using Dorman, I have a Tahoe too, I’ve used Dorman and they failed. I’ve used Gates or AC Delco and never a problem.
Not unions these are brass M.I.P.'s