You can hook up the negative cable to mounting bolt on alternator...you can use welding cable..I've also seen people use 0/0 amp cable Wich apparently works just as good.
That’s what I use as my wires for everything. I got a 1 gauge tho cause u don’t really need the 0 if it’s welding cable. I use Temco, made in USA, I try to stay away from the China stuff.
Dude you need another battery or a battery capacitor. You got a 2000w amp not including what ever else amp you got to run mids and highs. Big 3 will help but it will still dim
@@bikerworld4712 I mean this in the absolute least dick-ish way; If you can't answer that question on your own, you REALLY shouldn't be attempting a project like the big 3. Cars produce currents strong enough to KILL you.
I'm doing the big 3 upgrade with 0gauge wire with the stock 140 AMP alternator, I'm also going to have a a single yellow top battery.I will be running a 4000 RMS AUTOTEK Mean Machine amp for my single 12" 3,000 RMS sub in a 4th order box and a AUTOTEK Mean Machine 400 RMS amp for my highs. My question is that will that be enough to run that whole set up? I would also like to add that I'm not planning on having it full volume I just happened to come across a good deal on that set up so I took it. Please any feed back would be greatly appreciated from anyone. Thanks 🙏. And great job on the video. A like and a follow from me🎉
I have everything needed for a big 3 upgrade but i saw where my alternator is located & havent messed with it. Altima Coupe v6, alternator is at the bottom of the vehicle similar to yours. Any advice on how to get to it? Props on your system bro
Upgrading to a high output alternator would be at least 800 in parts and labor then any subwoofer and amp that would make you upgrade an alternator would run about 1000. Ill be happy with just getting a modest 1200 watt amp/sub with an agm battery
Eh, I’m doing a 6000w system. Stock alt would never be able to keep up. I will have 55ah of AGM reserve with my 320a alt, as well as 90ah of lithium so I have 0 voltage drop. Lots of extra grounds to keep it efficient!
You can do both adding to existing works the same. If you choose to replace then make sure that your positive or negative wires doing have sensors in them like newer vehicles because then it could cause issues.
If your vehicle has current voltage sensors make sure your wires are going through them. Gm usually have them on the negative ( both chassis and engine ground must go through the sensor) but fords have them on positive and negative. (Alternator wire goes through the positive and negative side is chassis and engine ground. On fords with these sensors should not have any accessorie grounds hooked directly to the battery chassis only. If you don’t go through those sensors the computer won’t charge the battery and with cause the alternator to cycle. DO NOT use CCA wire only OFC welding wire or equivalent.
I have 2 batteries for. My 7000W System I can barely use 1/2 of the sound system I have. I think the people who installed my system, only used Zero Wire from the the battery at the back but in the Alternator has stock wire...so I adjusted my music to keep my battery at 14V
Is a fuse REQUIRED between the alt and battery +? Should the fuse rating be based on the current that the alt can deliver to the battery or what the total of the amp(s) can draw (plus the OEM electronics)?
Fuses aren't absolutely required but I HIGHLY recommend them. They are inexpensive and easy to install and could be the device that stops your vehicle from becoming a pile of ash. Don't fuse for the alt, you fuse for the wire. Google ampacity charts if you're unsure how big of fuse you should use.
Look in your owners manual or google it. Chances are if the fuse is at the battery post you can add the wire directly to it. If not just make sure you match whatever your car uses.
Hace same question, about to upgrade gauge 4 wire and don't know if adding an anl fuse to the wire between alt and batt, running stock alt. 5.7 TBI '98 OBS, think 105 amp
Couldn’t I just leave the alternator frame to ground part out? since technically the alt frame is already grounded by it being bolted to the engine block?
You technically could but it wouldn't be optimal. Remember, electricity flows the path of least resistance. You want the most direct route possible. Relying on engine ground means you're ground path has to travel from the case, through mounting Bolts, through the engine block, to ground strap, to battery.
why did you run a ground from alt case to back battery? wouldn't a ground in the front from alt case to frame, and then another from back battery to frame be essentially the same thing?
Essentially, yes. And i do have a rear "frame ground" But with my vehicle being a unibody that would mean my ground path would travel from case to subframe to body to battery vs alt case straight to battery. When pulling this amount of amperage, you want the path of least resistance.
@@John--John iA ground is a ground. I’ve done this for 20+ plus years on all builds. I currently have a 2000+ watt system running off 125 amp alternator with no drop in voltage. Runs constant 13.8v. So no dimming of lights or anything.
I’ve watched many of these big 3 upgrade videos. This one right here was it. By far the best video explanation and showing us exactly what we need to do, also showing us that big ass power plant in his bechile that can probably power a small town in Wisconsin.
This guy said a real life install and proceeds to show a whole power plant stuffed in his car😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🔥🔥
Fo reals lol shit is sexy af
Saved me 13 minutes
Do you need to upgrade the alternator to run the big three??
Not necessarily, but it will definitely help!
Also.does.the wire have to be ofc wire?
@@jerz732 OFC will give a better current flow than CCA
@anthonywaldrep5982 I appreciate your response, I ended up doing the big 3 and some. It seriously makes a huge difference
@@jerz732 You are most welcome! I'm getting ready to do my Big 3 in the very near future
Do you need a throat lozenge? Great video otherwise.
I was looking for this comment 😂 bro cleared his throat like 50 times in this video
You can hook up the negative cable to mounting bolt on alternator...you can use welding cable..I've also seen people use 0/0 amp cable Wich apparently works just as good.
That’s what I use as my wires for everything. I got a 1 gauge tho cause u don’t really need the 0 if it’s welding cable. I use Temco, made in USA, I try to stay away from the China stuff.
Damn man when you opened that back i was in shock!! 🔈🔈🔈
flabbergasted😅
That's gay
Would the big 3 help with dimming lights when bass hits? I just got a 2000 watt amp with 2 12s
Dude you need another battery or a battery capacitor. You got a 2000w amp not including what ever else amp you got to run mids and highs. Big 3 will help but it will still dim
@divelife1382 big 3 and capacitor?
Did anyone else say "wtf!?" When he opened the trunk? Lol amazing set up bro.
Yes lol 😂
Every vehicle should do a big 3 even they not going to put bass init , it just better!!!!
Can it affect fuel consumption
@@bikerworld4712😂…..😂😂😂😂
@@bikerworld4712 I mean this in the absolute least dick-ish way; If you can't answer that question on your own, you REALLY shouldn't be attempting a project like the big 3. Cars produce currents strong enough to KILL you.
@@bikerworld4712😳😳😳😳😳
@@bikerworld4712it's providing a better flow from your alternator. Unless you upgrade the alternator it won't effect it.
That top comment is an understatement; he’s got more power than a cyber truck.
I'm doing the big 3 upgrade with 0gauge wire with the stock 140 AMP alternator, I'm also going to have a a single yellow top battery.I will be running a 4000 RMS AUTOTEK Mean Machine amp for my single 12" 3,000 RMS sub in a 4th order box and a AUTOTEK Mean Machine 400 RMS amp for my highs. My question is that will that be enough to run that whole set up? I would also like to add that I'm not planning on having it full volume I just happened to come across a good deal on that set up so I took it. Please any feed back would be greatly appreciated from anyone.
Thanks 🙏.
And great job on the video. A like and a follow from me🎉
Ok ok. I admit I’m trying to compete, but if it was me and you you’d for sure win I just have two fifteens, it appears you have four 18”s!
5:35 boi got a small nuclear device in the trunk 🤣😂
Great info man. Good video
I have everything needed for a big 3 upgrade but i saw where my alternator is located & havent messed with it. Altima Coupe v6, alternator is at the bottom of the vehicle similar to yours. Any advice on how to get to it? Props on your system bro
A lift makes a world of a difference
Upgrading to a high output alternator would be at least 800 in parts and labor then any subwoofer and amp that would make you upgrade an alternator would run about 1000. Ill be happy with just getting a modest 1200 watt amp/sub with an agm battery
Eh, I’m doing a 6000w system. Stock alt would never be able to keep up. I will have 55ah of AGM reserve with my 320a alt, as well as 90ah of lithium so I have 0 voltage drop. Lots of extra grounds to keep it efficient!
Just to be clear. Are you ADDING wires to the EXISTING wire runs OR replacing the original/old wires with zero gauge new wire?
You can do both adding to existing works the same. If you choose to replace then make sure that your positive or negative wires doing have sensors in them like newer vehicles because then it could cause issues.
If your vehicle has current voltage sensors make sure your wires are going through them. Gm usually have them on the negative ( both chassis and engine ground must go through the sensor) but fords have them on positive and negative. (Alternator wire goes through the positive and negative side is chassis and engine ground. On fords with these sensors should not have any accessorie grounds hooked directly to the battery chassis only.
If you don’t go through those sensors the computer won’t charge the battery and with cause the alternator to cycle.
DO NOT use CCA wire only OFC welding wire or equivalent.
can leave the stock wires running through the sensors and add the thicker grounds extra, they don't need to pass through.
Is it needed to put a bigger wire to the fuse box?
5:30 ... Bruh...😳
I have 2 batteries for. My 7000W System
I can barely use 1/2 of the sound system I have. I think the people who installed my system, only used Zero Wire from the the battery at the back but in the Alternator has stock wire...so I adjusted my music to keep my battery at 14V
LOL. His trunk looks like a power plant subdivision. LOL
And you leave the existing wires - right ?? So double + and double - ?
hopefully all goes 48v so we can get away from this ridiculous thick cables
Very clean setup bro 🔊💪💪
Thanks man!
Would you fuse the power to the alternator?
Best video on the topic by far man, thank you.
Other than the charge wire ,the pos stock cable is fine , no help increasing the guage
The DC elect. System doesn't have a ground
It's a field
Why didn’t you install a main breaker in that load center? My goodness!
where do you put your luggage?
I have a rooftop cargo box
My 2013 chevy Impala has a built in fuse on the alternator wire going to the battery. Is it bad to replace it with a bigger wire and no fuse?
Btw, not running car audio, just better positive and ground wires
😀Also upgrade all body to frame grounding straps
Sooo… when will they come out with a 48 volt systems so the wire gauge does not need to be that big?
By far the best dumbed down explanation for people like me.
Are you engine looks a bit pissed it just come back from the
Is a fuse REQUIRED between the alt and battery +? Should the fuse rating be based on the current that the alt can deliver to the battery or what the total of the amp(s) can draw (plus the OEM electronics)?
Fuses aren't absolutely required but I HIGHLY recommend them. They are inexpensive and easy to install and could be the device that stops your vehicle from becoming a pile of ash. Don't fuse for the alt, you fuse for the wire. Google ampacity charts if you're unsure how big of fuse you should use.
Look in your owners manual or google it. Chances are if the fuse is at the battery post you can add the wire directly to it. If not just make sure you match whatever your car uses.
Hace same question, about to upgrade gauge 4 wire and don't know if adding an anl fuse to the wire between alt and batt, running stock alt. 5.7 TBI '98 OBS, think 105 amp
Couldn’t I just leave the alternator frame to ground part out? since technically the alt frame is already grounded by it being bolted to the engine block?
You technically could but it wouldn't be optimal. Remember, electricity flows the path of least resistance. You want the most direct route possible. Relying on engine ground means you're ground path has to travel from the case, through mounting Bolts, through the engine block, to ground strap, to battery.
Damnnn wish we were homiez lol
The power needs to be fused.
why did you run a ground from alt case to back battery? wouldn't a ground in the front from alt case to frame, and then another from back battery to frame be essentially the same thing?
Essentially, yes. And i do have a rear "frame ground" But with my vehicle being a unibody that would mean my ground path would travel from case to subframe to body to battery vs alt case straight to battery. When pulling this amount of amperage, you want the path of least resistance.
You're too awesome 💯
Just ordered a 250 amp alt you think I need 1 gauge or 4 gauge
I'd go 1/0
Would 4 awg be okay or is that still too small?
Anything over stock is an upgrade but I would consider going thicker to allow you to upgrade power in the future
@@bassheadmechanic I gotcha man d4s.com has a 0awg kit for 56$! Imma get that bad boy and put on my truck
4 is more than enough. 0 is over kill. I run 6 from the alternator to battery and my battery cables are 4
@irishuwould5185 agree I'm pulling 350+ amps from my system and it's all 4 gauge I've never had a issue.No fuses popped no wires burned nothing
Can you just add a ground on the alternator to the body instead of engine block to chassis?
Yes. My alternator is grounded to the frame
Yep almost burned my truck forgot to swap out a small wire
What wire?
I dod the big 4 I also ground the alternator to the battery and not the chassis.
What?! What in the hell are you thinking? That is a extremely bad idea smfh. Have you zapped your charging system yet??
@@John--John iA ground is a ground. I’ve done this for 20+ plus years on all builds. I currently have a 2000+ watt system running off 125 amp alternator with no drop in voltage. Runs constant 13.8v. So no dimming of lights or anything.
👍
Does this make your headlights brighter?
Not necessarily
Makes the current faster is all, stronger.
@@InternacionalBoxing will this make my DRL lights brighter because they’re very dim
@@mikemanners5803like they said already, no.
I’ve watched many of these big 3 upgrade videos. This one right here was it. By far the best video explanation and showing us exactly what we need to do, also showing us that big ass power plant in his bechile that can probably power a small town in Wisconsin.