AnthonyJ350 hey again! Sorry for the off topic, Hey again! I’m trying to reach out to you on your latest RUclips video and here hoping you could save me once again My 350z 2004’s stayed unused around 20 days under temperature ranging from 10 to -2*C since the last ignition I tried to start it yesterday and today, but the battery seems to have died even though it’s 6 months old A shop nearby used an amplifier to keep the battery running, but we couldn’t start the car, though fuel pump seems to work properly, as everything else I’m thinking it’s Alarm/NATS because the red light above the wheel is constant when the key is in ON mode, when it’s in ACC, the light is flashing Could you confirm that when the red light is constant in ON mode, the car will never start. Or would it stay constantly red in ON mode because it’s usually so? Thank you greatly for any reply, I’m quite desperate right now
I just bought a 2013 chevy Tahoe LTZ. I ran a 0 gauge ground from battery to fender and another 0 gauge to the alternator bracket. I also ran two 0 gauge positive to the rear for a 2nd battery. I was looking at the factory ground to the engine block that had that sensor. That ground engine block wire look big enough look like almost 0 gauge but I think it's 2 gauge. Will it's be ok to run it like that, I have factory alternator. Will upgrade to mechman later.
@@AnthonyJ350 Ok I keep an eye on it's am still waiting on wire harness for Pioneer radio hooking it up to a Orion HCCA 3000.1 that amplifier has three positive and three negative connection.
Although this was posted 5 years ago, a BIG thanks for it. I was scratching my hair out, wondering why my voltage gauge in my 2008 Chevy Avalanche is dropping down to about 13V and, at random times, going up to about 14.6V. I decided to check on this when I noticed the Current Loop sensor on my ground wire from the battery while cleaning up and replacing rotten wire covers. Thanks for the information as I am from the old school that thinks that alternators put out a constant 14.x volts. Here is how I now think I got to this point and maybe others can relate to this - My voltage gauge was always showing over 14V because my previous battery was getting bad and was not reaching a proper SOC. It was when it got noticeably bad where my truck started to struggle to crank that I decided it is time to change the battery. I replaced it with an Optima Yellow top and that is when the voltage gauge started to read below 14V at random times. What made it complicated was that I was also tracing down a misfire issue (#6 Cyl) and started to think that the misfire issue was related to the battery voltage, not knowing what I know now. Thank you for this video.
That's the problem I've been having with my 2011 CTS with a Mechman 240 amp alt. I have a 4000 RMS amp on 2 -12'" and 1200 RMS 4 ch amp when I start jamming certain songs like the song named Previously by PAYROLL GIOVANNI&CARDO the alt starts to ramp up to 15.7+ the service power steering and traction control message pop up but it's fine after it goes back below 15.7 volts. I bought an SMD VM-1 and connected the ground and constant directly to the sub amp to get a more accurate reading. All this time I thought something was wrong with the alternator so I need an external RVC. Thanks for making this video.
Real car audio mad scientist ish man i love it keep it going its old head car audio enthusiasts don't know what to do with all these new sensors and things thanks a ton mane
Thank you!!! I couldn't muddle through the Motor article because of the way it was written and I've been trying to figure out how this whole bit works for years. You just gave the best explanation, no "extras" just to count words and with examples of what you're saying.
I got a 2019 Chevy Cruze RS 1.4 turbo engine and It does the same thing !! 12.5 volts with day lights on and climbs to 13.6 with night lights on !! When I un plug the wire from ecm battery lights comes on but 13.6 steady!! Thanks for the video it reassures me ! I was about to change everything 😊
Thanks for the video. I bought a 2015 Sierra Denali 2 days ago and put on close to 400 miles yesterday. All interstate miles. And about 3/4 the way to my destination I noticed my voltage was reading in the 13 range. I was a little worried. But the rain stopped and my lights went off. On the return trip my lights came on about 1/2 home and it went back up to 14 again. This was interesting to learn about.
Very informative video! I remember my 04 GMC did not have this amp clamp. 1st time I saw it was on my 06 Monte Carlo and GMC. I think they started this in 05 when they went to the dual electric fans. Now all GM cars have this feature.
Thanks for this video. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 LT loaded except no OnStar. I also have a 600 watt amp. I don’t see the clamp for PCM controlled voltage. My battery at rest today was 11.8V. After running it shows 12.6V. My issue is my volt meter (dash) at start has a rapid bounce between 14-17V. As soon as the idle lowers below 1000rpm it sit at 14+. When I drive, the same thing happens above 1000rpm, then come to a stop and it’s steady 14+. I noticed you changed the normal small alt to junction block wire to a large gauge wire. Could it be that small wire (fusible link) causing this? I’ve been chasing bad grounds but I’m stumped to the cause. Please help if you can.
I have a 03 Chevy suburban 1500 Z71 4wheel drive. I just replaced the battery and alternator and I'm still getting a reading on my dash that says Battery not charging and the battery light comes on and off, what's the next thing I can try before going to the dealership because they did replace my PCM less than a year ago
Finaly... the information i've been lQQking for, i just picked up a used 2005 GMC Sierra 1500(single cab/shortbed/4.3L v6/automatic/181k original miles), my first truck ever, it has the same guage cluster shown in this video, and im from the USA btw. Just after starting the truck, the factory voltmeter guage would be at 14v, then after driving around for around for a few minutes, the voltmeter would start to go downwards, showing less voltage, and this is during daylight hours, but when its dark out, like heading off to work in the early morning, the voltmeter guage stays at a constant 14v like normal. Now knowing what GM has installed on most of its newer vehicles, the clamp meter on the negative cable side of the battery, this all makes sense to me because of its design, i have a brand new battery thats within 2weeks old, it starts up fine, and honestly, i was ready to pull the alternator out to have it checked, now i see i dont have too, everything appears a-ok. FYI, i happen to have a "ScanGuage" device that you can mount on the dash, by velcro, in front of the factory guage cluster, or elsewhere if you prefer, and it connects directly to the OBDII port, you can check all sorts of vital information with it that the PCM sees. I set the scanguage device to the voltmeter function and watch it as im driving, after starting the vehicle, the display shows 14.4v, and dips down as low as 12.6v after driving around for a few minutes, and that is during daylight hours, again, when running in the early morning hours when its still dark out, the display shows a constant 14.4v for miles on end, no doubt because of the electrical load from the headlights, driving lights and tail lights that automaticall come on with no other accessories in use, other than listening to radio/cd player at low volume, other than that, the truck is factory stock.
@@williamgonzalez7167 Theres no problem, its completely normal.... look for a device thats attached to the negative battery cable near the negative side of the battery, it senses the battery voltage. As the alternator charges up the battery after starting the vehicle, the instrument cluster guage will typically read +14.4v at first, then slowly drops down as the battery is being charged back up to its nominal voltage of +12.6, its GMs way of not overcharging the battery and shortening its life and/or cause it to swell up prematurely, smart charging basically.
Nice video! Honda is similar, I installed a bypass on a switch so when I'm really bumpin hard, idling I can flick it on. For kicks I left the bypass on for a week and it's CRAZY how much gas mileage you lose.
Hi, what kind of bypass switch did you install? I mean what's it called, where does it go and where do I get it? I have a Honda Accord and I need more amps lol
Can I ask more about what your comment means or what you did. My voltage constantly dances. It doesn’t just go up and then down after a bit. Had the charging system checked out they said it was fine. They said my alternator was fine. My battery was fine. Truck just struggles to stay consistent to a point it’s going from 13 to 17. 14 to 15. 13 to 17. As I’m driving, you can hear my AC fan speed fluctuating up and down up and down. It’s kind of annoying when you’re driving.
DUDE!!! THANK YOU!!!! I've been chasing bad grounds, testing alternator and battery. Im getting a low voltage code on my o2 sensors and I didn't know if the two were related. Now I know they're not. My 05 GMC is my baby and im so happy I watched this. I do still have a battery light, but these years GMCs and Chevs are notorious for instument cluster problems.
Voltage and current have an inversely proportional relationship. Adjusting system voltage means adjusting current draw - the fuse/switch/relay/sensor and wiring specs all have to be within a specific range - and this is why grounding is so important.
Can you tell me how the voltage gauge operates? On a 2003 Silverado 5.3, I'm aware that this is being fed by class 2 serial data, but do you know what the "range" of values are that instruct the stepper motor to read from 9 to 19 volts?
A few years late but, did you run the engine ground through the RVC alone or with other cables? and if you run the cable through the RVC can I add the other grounds after to a distro block to the battery.
So i kind of grasp the concept of this. Recently replaced the alternator and battery in my 2013 Chevy Tahoe 5.3l. Idle is fine and flat cruising is fine, but when accelerating in any form i get serious light flicker...im stumped.. no sound system, everything is stock, any pointers on your end? Thanks for your knowledge!
I have a 2015 Silverado 2500 LT 4x4. I just bought an Iraggi 320Amp Alternator. I'm planning on upgrading my battery to a AM XS-D3400. I need your expertise ! The forums do no justice ! From what I can tell, I need to do the generic big 3. Then I get confused, do I then run the ground from my alternator through the clamp and then to my battery? Or ALL grounds? can you specify.. or is there a way to get ahold of you .. on a forum... anywhere to chat faster?
Newer alternator & battery (6 months old). Last night while on 3 hour drive the battery gauge dropped and "Battery Not Charging" light came on. Shortly thereafter it returned to normal and volatage held steady. About two hours later volatage again drastically dropped and the battery warning light came on. It again was short lived and returned to normal voltage setting on battery gauge. I checked the connections on the battery and the alternator all connections seem secure. Any suggestions what else I should be looking for? 2004 GMC Yukon Denali and it's stock with not mods.
2002 silverado, alternator wont 'wake up' until 5-10 minutes into the drive (battery light on!) and sometimes it wont until I rev it past 3000, then it will slowly ramp up and not give me any more issues.... ? Bad brush?
I have a 2009 GMC Sierra 5.3. I am currently running on a stock alternator and I’m looking to get a bigger one and do the big 3. Is your pickup still doin good? I’m just worried I’m going to screw somethin up. Thanks
I wonder is this whats happening with my battery voltage in my Charger....I have 370 mechman alt...2 agm batteries...and done a big( 3) 2 months ago...My voltage reads 13.0-13.4 at idle....but once i start driving voltage jumps up to 14.3- 14.7.....sound system push around 1500 watts...voltage fluctuate like you describe in video...Do i need add more ground connections
So I have a Ford but I think you’re still a good person to ask. My alternator is regulated by the pcm, and planned on adding a regulator because I have a 4,000 rms system, and 3 huge agm batteries, 370 amp alternator, and big three but somehow I still dip down into low 13s high 12s on the expressway. I have a ~500 amp draw if all 3 amps are doing their rms (which is super rare) so more like a consistent 350. Would the regulator help at all?
Ya I think you're going to need an external regulator to force the alternator to maintain 14.5 volts. Secondary sealed AGM battery isn't a bad idea to add on as well.
question for u i have 2 lishen banks max charging 14.6. i just bought a high out alt that will put out 14.8 v. will my truck regulate the voltage or will i charge at 14.8 my truck is a 2002 gmc yukon xl 5.3l is really don’t want to over charge my cells also i have a maxwell super cap under the hood. i dont have any kinda agm or lead acid battery’s i have the big 3 and am running close to 7 k
2002 wouldn't have an RVC system so I'm willing to bet you alternator will be 14.5 - 14.8 volts all the time. I would look into upgrading to an Odyssey battery.
Great video. Very informative. I have a 08 suburban LT. Been having some weird electrical issues. Started with locks clicking up and down and speedo and tach going crazy. Other messages on DIC like stabilitrack. Replaced alternator and everything seemed fine. Then started having an issue where I'd park the truck and turn off. Come back out to start up and nothing happens. No key fab unlock, no lights on dash when I put key into ignition. Truck wouldn't turn over or anything. I'd jump it and it would turn on. So after all this I replaced the alternator and battery. Not the top of the line battery and 160 amp new alternator. Had the same thing happen, voltage dropped real low, parked it and turned it off and had nothing when I tried to start it. Called AAA and by the time the tow truck got there, about an hour, I tried starting it and it started up. I exchanged the alternator again and so far it's been ok. I do watch the dash more carefully. It does fluctuate but seems to run real similar to your video. The lowest voltage I'd see was around 13.2 volts. I left a multimeter hooked up and turned the truck off and saw voltage go down to about 12.79 volts and stayed there. Started the truck and it went to about 14.78. Crossing my fingers! I love my grocery getter.
So I have a 2013 Cadillac ATS that I just replaced the battery and now the save battery is active and says check charging system I put in a full charged battery and load tested as well. Does this mean the Alternator is not kicking in because it’s fully charged and I should turn on all accessories to make the alternator charge the battery ?I followed the steps that Cadillac recommended when changing battery and turning to acc mode before turning engine on for 3 minutes. Please help Thank you
Does it matter what direction the sensor is? Is the sensor placed between the negative post half a foot away and then after that the rest of the ground cables are grounded to the rest of the chassis, body and engine (or it doesn't matter)?
Great video, I did not know about the Battery Current Sensor or the RVC system. I'm currently running a AGM 12V 1000 watt 18 ah Power Cell as a secondary for my Class D amp in my 2010 awd Escalade Luxury. I have my main 0 aught wire connected to the main battery under my hood in the engine compartment. I'm running that 0aught wire back to my power cell in the back and then I grounded to the back floor panel (grinded the area down to bare metal first). Would I need to somehow run a ground through the BCS for my amp? I got my new Sensor a few days ago, so I'm looking for your opinion on how to disconnect and reconnect the BCS Sensor. Also how do I know if I need the 1st BCS design or the second BCS design. One is for 5volt Power supply coming from BCM and the other is 2nd design 10volt Power supply coming from the BCM?
@@AnthonyJ350 yeah I see how that would be the best way to do it, So I'm running a 0 gauge power wire from my main battery back to my second battery and then to my amp. The secondary battery and my amp are in the back cargo area of my Escalade, I'm guessing that would be to long of a run for a ground wire if I were to run a 0gauge from my main battery through the BCS and back to my secondary. Unless of course I misunderstood your reply, which I forgot to thank you for replying, so thank you Sir for the feedback.
I had leds in my taillights for the brake/turn signal but single filiment 7440 bulb and it killed my stock agm battery, then dropped in an xs power D4800 agm battery in my 2018 Chevy Malibu. But I was told at my local Chevy dealer where I work my car has Regulated Voltage Control. My Battery will stay at 13-13.5 volts, is my Regulated Voltage Control kicking in by reducing voltage?
Probably, what happens when you turn on your lights? Will it got to 14.5 volts eventually? Also can't the mechanic plug into their scan tool and see how the alternator is operating?
Could you explain more about the voltage dropping with a sound system? 2024 Chevy, I have 130 amp alt, 1000 rms amp, 0 gauge wire no big 3, my voltage is dropping down to 12 while driving sometimes and going back up to 14.
@@AnthonyJ350 charging voltage with engine on system on will randomly go from 12.0- 14.5. No set indicator of what’s causing it. I can turn on all my accessories and it can go to 14.5, I can also turn it all off and be driving down the road with it at 12.0.
Hi my battery light came on today. But i dont use the truck a lot. I just remote start it every day. Do you think my alternator when bad or is just not putting up the voltage because i dont drive it? Thanks
Very helpful! Thank you. While I was driving it dropped down and I was concerned. While watching this video it actually came back up to "normal" appreciate the info!
@@AnthonyJ350 yep I did while I was driving. It didn't go all the way up but I'm going to put a meter on it. I have a feeling the factory gauge is reading a little low.
Quick question if you could answer this. I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0L car and having issues with it running. When I check the voltage on my car battery when the car is running it is overcharging the battery. It sometimes can get up to 18 Volts. I was wondering with your knowledge of voltage if you could provide any advice for what may be causing this. I replaced the battery with a brand new one and I'm still having this overcharge issue which in turn is making my car run very poorly and my electronics in my car turn on and off. I also just replaced my alternator last year and I did pull it off to bench test it and it passed. I was wondering if you think the PCM could be the potential cause of all this or something else? Any advice would greatly be appreciative. Nice video by the way I learned a few things from it.
Are the battery terminals clean and well secured? Were you driving the vehicle for a while with a bad battery? Has the vehicle been jump started or put on a battery charger set to "high" or "start" setting?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, battery terminals are clean and secured. Its a new battery. I don't think I was driving around for awhile with a bad battery. It was okay for awhile when i disconnected one of the terminals. If they were connected the battery would drain. The new battery has not been jumped yet. It has enough charge right now. It just overcharges when the car runs. Thanks for answering back.
My 2018 Chevy Malibu has the Regulated Voltage Control System and I have an amp and sub. 600 watt RMS at 1 ohm single 12" subwoofer with a 800 watt RMS at 1 ohm mono amp. And in the first time I start the car and go to work at 12 pm my voltmeter goes to 15 volts for a while even with the radio. Do I need a battery upgrade to keep up with my power hungry equipment.
I got a 400amp alternator for my 08 trailblazer has 3 batteries and a 8000 watt rms amp……I just got a voltage regulator that’s higher 15v it should still sit around the normal 14.7-8 I’d say…….doc you think this is a good move ?
Hello i have a 2005 Chevy tahoe it was driving fine then all of a sudden it stopped. It wont crank over at all none of my gauge hands are moving. All lights work so battery is good i jumped start my starter and it works. I looked at the sensor on black wire to battery o don't know what sensor that is but o opened it up and it look like oil was inside of and the harness thats connected to it. I don't know were the harness goes too seems like it goes under fuse box. What should I do?
I wanted to buy a mechman ho alternator for my lexus rx 2017, and mechman said they dont have any past 2015. But they have universal alternators. My main concern is Buy using a modified ho alternator in certain cars, hurt, or damage anything with the system?.
You'd have to research the system. You have to make sure you can reconnect everything (plugs) or else the computer may think something is wrong and turn on warning lights or operate differently.
The issue I have with my current sensor is I put a 2nd battery in on a smart isolator that kicks in at 13.2. Problem is my current sensor floats between 12.5-13 so my smart isolator doesn’t kick in and charge my 2nd battery. The current sensor just bounces between 12.5-13, and when my regulator does bump up voltage past 13.2, my second battery kicks in and causes the sensor to bump the voltage back down under 13.2. And just cycles that over and over. Any suggestions? The one thing I’ve done that makes the dual battery set up work perfectly is unplugging the sensor. When I do that my system stays at a steady 14.3 while engine is running
I honestly prefer a regular heavy duty solenoid that engages as soon as it sees 12 volts ignition. I personally combine my batteries to be hooked up all the time and install fusible links at both batteries for safety. I just connect the secondary battery to the positive terminal of the main battery and ground to chassis. Let me know if that works for you, that's how I wired up a 2018 Silverado 2500HD recently.
I have a 2019 camaro and my voltage is 14.5v or 13.5v sometimes but most of the times it goes to 12.4v and keeps going for a long time like that and then again go back to 13.5 or 14.1 for like 3 to 5 minutes and than again it got drop to 12.4v is this will be same case ?
Got a new battery sometimes my voltage shows 14 sometimes it shows 12... I have an 05 Escalade 6.0... shouldn’t it stay at 14 all the time it shows pretty low when I don’t drive it for a day or 2 and turn the key over to start it and once started it will either go to 14 or just go to 12 and stay. Or go to 14 then go down to 12 and stay. I don’t get it. Is my alternator bad or is my vehicle one of those that does what u said in this video?.. the whole not using such a load and saving energy.? I thought it would be the BCM , but not sure what to replace or to replace anything at all. Also not sure if it being 30 degrees the past week is gonna cause some issues or not.
I have a 2011 Chevy 1500 Silverado with 5.3 replaced the battery; charges fine til i turn on AC then it shuts off alternator and it wont restart til I shut off motor and restart it; any Thoughts?
Hi I have a 12in kicker ran from a 1000w pioneer amp it works good when the truck is off, or when I unplugged the alternator control it worked, but the lights died so I plugged it back in, once I did that the amp would cut in and out of protect mode. What do you think is wrong
I have a upgraded sound system in my car (Chrysler 300). When I had the stock alternator it used to read 14v at idle with the upgraded system. I installed a Mechman 320 amp alternator and it started to read 12v at idle. Come to find out the alternator can’t handle a big load on low idle so I changed the pulley to a smaller one and the rectifier on the alternator and now idles at 13v. Should I still put an external voltage regulator on to reach back up to the 14v or no?
2012 2500hd with a plow that just started to cut off the radio and cluster all lights go dim or off, (when I try to lift the plow). Now it won't even lift the plow and when I have the plow hooked up, when I try to roll both windows up at the same time everything blacks out for a few seconds cluster gauges zero out and black out but truck stays running.
Test both batteries with them disconnected. If they're over 4 years old, change them both. Then upgrade grounds from battery to chassis, motor and cab.
I have a 1999 GMC 2500 4X4 with 56000 miles. Looks and runs like new. Problem is the pulsing lights and meter. I cleaned and checked many grounds (6). Engine to frame, frame to body and battery grounds. No help. Something of note.... if I move gear selector in neutral and RPM drops to under 700, everything is fine. Can you help?
You can also try upgrading the positive wire from the alternator to the battery with another 4 gauge wire. Did you just clean the grounds or did you add?
@@AnthonyJ350 Add 2. Engine to frame I used another braided strap and frame to body. They are near the original straps. I will upgrade the positive from batt. to alt. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the info. Have same system in my Nissan Patrol Y62. Alpine PXA-H800 monitors the variable voltage and drives me nuts untill now why it does it. Thanks 😊 again
good morning, if I have any aftermarket installed on my car. and I installed a larger battery from 45Ah to 95Ah. Is it worth re-adjusting the "smart charger" to charge the battery more? I mean, set through the ECU or through some resistance that the alternator leaves the battery more charged than the one set by the house, which did not provide for the greater user.
@@AnthonyJ350 Sorry for my English. I didn't mean a higher amp draw peak. But I needed a longer absorption while the car was off. therefore charging the battery at a higher voltage (not 13.2 but 14.8 at moment of turning off) could leave more amps to absorb during the parking period with no engine. Is it possible with some workaround on RVC-ECM-BMO-resistance or other?
So 2 questions. 1. Where did you get that alternator? 2. I have a smart alternator and I wanna hook up an air horn and a light bar but still retain the smart features. Is hooking the negative up to the battery okay or should I put it on the frame or body somewhere?
I installed a Mechman alternator, give them a call if you're not sure which one to buy. Here is the install video ruclips.net/video/uzcVPcldvBU/видео.html
i have a 2005 chevy silverdo 1500 and i did a v6 to v8 swap . I used a wiring harness and engine from a 2003 2500HD with a 6 litre which did not have a generator battery control module . Now my battery light is on all the time . How do i get my light to go out . The gauge said it is charging about 14 volts .Thanks Keith
@@keithbradley9976 I'm also not sure if the ECU controls the system or the BCM. I wonder if you grab the BCM from that 2500HD if the problem would go away.
I recently bought a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 5.3 V8. When I was on my way home the voltage dropped to under 14 volts so I stopped and Replaced the alternator. Started driving again and about 75 miles into my trip the voltage drops again. I am Like WTF! so at this point I decided to just keep going and get home. But then from time to time the voltage would come back up and then drop again. I asked the service dept at Chevy what the deal is and they said that this was the way the new ones are designed! WTF! Wish I knew that! Would have saved me $175 on a alternator! Wish they would inform people of this when they buy these vehicles! Not to mention this just does not seem normal to me. Voltage drops I automatically assume charging system is not working.
I can understand the frustration, but a feature like that no place is going to inform consumers. Did they explain overdrive and lock up function of the torque converter when you bought it, or would you expect them to? They would expect you to bring it back and bring it to their attention.
Is it really normal? When i got a new battery it would always stay at 14 but after a while it started dropping on my 2013 tahoe hopefully its true and something doesnt fail on me
Can you help Me out I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I've got the new alternator and battery and for 2 weeks it drove perfect now it's going to 12-13-12-11v now stuck at 11 do I need a new ecm or grounds connected to alternator and car ground?
Good intimative video man... Okay my scenario is... 07 tahoe smart charging but I have a powerful sound system & dual batteries, how should I bypass the smart charging in order to connect my battery isolator & have it function properly?
have a 2016 GMC Sierra and my charging system is very wired sometime it will stay at 14 amps but when it gets hot it drops down to 12.8 have replaced 5 alt and 5 batteries have added a sound system and some led ditch lights do not understand this system and can not get a clear answer other than that is the way it works hove up graded the grounds and replaced the ground cable that has the amp reader still does the same
Your description say 2000 gm vehicles and I'm pretty sure that cluster is from 03 or newer and I have only seen those current sensor on 05 or newer but that cluster isn't American I assume Canada but we're things different or is this an 05 ,06, or 07 classic
Have a question I have a 2008 gmc Yukon SLT I was driving noticed my dash was going crazy doors locking and unlock pulled over battery post we're loose but notice it sparked when I closed the hood well the wrong battery post we're on there so changed everything out new battery and post it was fine now this morning it started fine then driving I noticed that it went below the middle a.nocth or two is this normal still driving no bleeking or anything do I need to change alternator
If you're driving for a while and the battery has a good charge, Ive seen my voltage drop down to 12.8. Turn your lights on and drive and see if it hangs out at 14.5.
I changed my alternator, my plugs, and my coils. My voltage meter is still flying around. I’m going to clean the connectors and check the ground. Was wondering if a bad battery could be the culprit too
I would check the health of the battery and clean off all the factory grounds. Are the gauges shutting off? This video might help ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
Wow ok so yes I’m having that problem right as now I’m pushing a 6k system Rms and I have an mechman 320 alt , xs power D3400 under the hood and one in the back! I was thinking it was my Alternator aswell… so my battery charging system come on when I’m sitting not really putting current through it, but when I start bumping the voltage goes up within like 30 to 40 sec I would guess… I need help on what to do? I just dnt like the battery light coming on while I’m sitting
My 2013 Nissan Altima has something similar but instead in runs as low as 12.2 when the engine is under load and only charges back to 14.5 when you begin to brake. I disconnected a wire within the pcm harness so it continues to regulate its voltage but now it stays at 14 consistently and throws no battery light.
AnthonyJ350 Yeap that's what it was designed to do. My gas mileage went down about 2mpgs since its mostly city miles which is fine with me as long as it works correctly.
270trevon My 2014 Ford Explorer does the same exact thing. I’m running a 5000 watt stereo though. It will sit around 13.0, and then shoot up to like 14.6-14.8 when braking. When the bass drops, it easily goes as low as 12.6-12.7.
I’m lost at the moment lol . I have a 2006 GMC Sierra. I replaced my battery about 4 months ago. I had a yellow top battery beforehand. I recently had my battery light come on, so I replaced my alternator. Ran good for two weeks. My truck came with an amp (from previous owner) & my battery light came on again. & I noticed on the highway today when I had my music on kinda high & I was accelerating I noticed the battery voltage gauge dropping the more I accelerated & when I let the gas go the gauge would go back up to 14. ANY suggestions at all ?
Hi there So i have a nissan versa 2018 And i have the same. Smart system And a i have an 15vsetpoint 320 amp alternator at the house The alternator is made for my car Do i will have the same deal like yours? And i will have the big3 with 0 wire Can i also use the factory wire from the alt to the battery? Thank uu
I dont know what u mean for clamp. But i will do the big3 1/0 gauge. But can i also use the factory wire plus the 1/0 going from the alternator to the battery?
Ok my main question is this even if the PCM kicks in and starts doing this and drops my charging to 13.8 where it's supposed to be at won't it still be charging at say hypothetically 290 amps at 13.8 volts if my alt is that size well I know it will produce less at idle but you get what I'm saying right say my original alternator was 100 amps and I've upgraded to a 290 amp model even if the PCM kicks in and drops the voltage to 13.8 won't it still be charging 2 1/2 times faster than it was originally just wondering I'm brand new to lithium and HO alternator etc and I just bought my first EVER lithium battery and about to order a 290 amp from autotech but my car is PCM controlled 19 Camry and im wondering about stuff like this any advice would be greatly appreciated
I have a 2500 same gen as you and the volt gage on the cluster fluctuates back and forth every second, but the voltmeter says its far more steady. Any ideas?
I have 05 silverado it always strong at 14 or above. Added a system and nothing changed. Now the volatge goes to 14. Then drops to about 12. Whats the reason
Extremely useful info. I have a G37x and was wondering why the car would start up and start charging at 14.5ish (for anywhere from a few minutes to barely a minute) and then drop to 13.6 then drop down to 13 and then hover there.
@@AnthonyJ350 It's actually causing more trouble than its worth. I rarely do long trips, I typical drive maybe 8-15km on a 'busy' day so my battery is always undercharged so I've gotten into the habit of hooking her up to a trickle charger once every few days to top it off. You think it would be a good idea to go ahead and disable it?
You'll have to research if the PCM controls it. There is a ground wire in the back of the block under the intake manifold. Make sure that one is ok. I cover it in my GM truck electrical maintenance video.
What do I need to up my voltage? JEEP Commander. I have a sound system with an extra battery in the back. Its a C Max lithium so I'm buying an isolator but still need my voltage to at least 14.8
I have a 2005 tahoe good battery good alternator but the voltage drops and the ac wont work or heated seats wont work but if i run the windshield wipers it brings the voltage up and i can use the ac i dont know
Thank you for the videos with the explanation of the GM charging system and upgrading the grounds. I have a problem with my 2006 Silverado. All the lights, headlights, dash lights, interior lights pulsating and the voltmeter bouncing when the truck is running and while driving. When I turn the truck off with the headlights still on the pulsating stops and the lights are steady. The battery is about a year old and good quality and the cable connections clean. The alternator was replaced 7 months ago with a remanufactured alternator. I plan to add the ground cables as described in your video but I also wonder if it could be a bad voltage regulator in the reman alternator. If you have any idea what is causing the lights to pulsate I would appreciate your advice.
@@AnthonyJ350 Update, It was the alternator. I took it back to the store I purchased it at and while it tested in operating range they agreed to replace it after I complained about the voltage fluctuating. Working good now no light flicker. Thanks for your help.
Any info in regards to the blue wire of the plug of the sarvc, looking for the location to where it connects to in the wiring harness, clymer service manual is only so much help. thank you...
Hi AnthonyJ350 great video i have 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE my truck kills my alternator and battery once a year i was told that it was RVC in my PCM and that i need to replace my PCM.Any help would be great thank you in advance
I have a 2002 Avalanche and I've been chasing this similar problem however in case my voltage drops down to almost 9 volts after the the vehicle has been running for a bit than if I tap the gas it will go up to 14 and of course all my lights go bright, dose my truck have this and will it cause miss fires, I have no system in it I do however run after market performance parts in including a 255 Amp alternator
Hmmm your truck won't have the RVC system. It might be a ground issue. You'll want to upgrade the grounds regardless and the positive wire from the alternator to the battery. This video might help you with the factory grounds ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 so I've actually done all of that including the big 3 upgrade as well as a 4 gauge wire feed from the alternator, that's why this is such a mystery to figure out I can seem to pinpoint where the power draw is coming from.
@@AnthonyJ350 yes I did, I even replaced it with a 10 gauge wire. I do have an idea that it may be the ignition coil Harnesses because I'm running MSD blaster coil packs with their wiring attachment for the extra power pull but I have a feeling that the stock harness wires are shot and can't handle the amount of draw over an extended period of time so I ordered a performance wire harness from summit so we'll see how that works.
My 05 Avalanche with RVC looks like a disco party going down the road. People have actually recorded me going down the road (without me even knowing) and showed me the video the next time they see me. The volt meter fluctuates from below the 14 mark to the large 16 mark which is a lot on the guage. The dash lights have gotten so bright they overrode the dimmer switch until the voltage fell again. any ideas?? it does have a carquest alternator in it. any ideas would be apprieciated
i got a 2005 tahoe when i first crank it gauge is at 14.8 like normal then it flutuates and slowly goes down to 13 and keeps flauting back and fourth to 13 to like 13.5 and it makes it idle kinda rough just started it idk if its the battery or alanator?
Check out the factory grounds, clean them and dielectric grease them. Also consider upgrading the electrical system by adding thicker grounds ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 I found out. It`s a 12 volt square wave around 90 to 200 hertz. But lower frequency`s seem to work. ruclips.net/video/y0A5s5m1_AY/видео.html
I got the service battery charging system alarm I tested the voltage on my battery I was good tested the alternator and found that the alternator was bad so I replaced the alternator and now I'm running about 14.5 volts with my lights off my radio off all electronics off and I can't seem to get the service battery charging system light to go off any suggestions? Oh I have also changed out the fuse that's between the battery and the alternator
How can I get in contact with you I got some questions on a 02 Tahoe. I got 2 8s and a Rockford fosgate t1000bd 0 gauge power wires and grounded straight to the frame. The big 3 has been done all 0 gauge sanded and painted over clean up the factory grounds as well. New AGM battery and new 140amp ac delco alternator. Soon as I turn my bass up the voltage drops so low it kills the truck and has a hard start after. Not only the sound does this but I can kill the truck buy rolling up all windows at the same time any idea ?
@@AnthonyJ350 13v at battery terminals with motor off. 15v with it on . I just read the fluke t5-600 rounds up or down so it’s not as accurate. My amp is grounded to the Frame of the vehicle with a foot long 0 gauge welding lead wire grounding point is sanded to bear metal ground attached with self tapping screw them paint over to protect it
I have a new alternator and battery, with subs, ive been running this set up for about a year, and now the voltmeter drops to slightly below 11, so low it cut off once, it also cut off before I changed my alternator, wondering how to check this RVC to see if it’s bad. Also do I need to have it hooked up?
@@AnthonyJ350 do you believe it’ll be the current sensor? I have a 03 Chevy 4.8 currently running 2 10s with a voice audio system as well but it won’t let me higher it at times because my voltage drops , it happens also more when I’m getting ready to start braking at a light but once I take off the voltage goes up to about 14.0-14.2 I’m on a stock alternator but want to know if maybe could be current sensor before replacing my alternator. Any help would be appreciated!!
@@AnthonyJ350 also if I have the truck In park I can jam the system as loud as it goes but once I put it in reverse or drive my voltage will start to drop .
I installed a new 300a HOA. At first it gives 14.8 from start. After idle for 10 mins, it drops to 13v. If I hit gas pedal, it jumps back up to 14.8v. Any idea why this would happen?
@@AnthonyJ350 13v. That's what I'm saying, ya know. Seems when car gets to optimal temp, it gradually drops off to 13v. If I tap the pedal the least bit, jumps to 14.8 and drops instantly back down to 13v again.
I wonder if you could help me I want to put a smalle 300 W inverter in my 2015 Chevy pickup I need I need 12 V or more for the inverter to work correctly without beeping low voltage I'm only plugging in a 150 watch device Therefore once the battery is fully charged it goes to 11.5 V which is driving me nuts because it works for about 20 minutes and minutes start To beep low voltage on the inverter Is there any way I could keep it at 12.5 votes
good I recently put a 370a H/O (cpm controlled)on my 04 crown victoria and when I hit the gas my music cuts out and then my amp comes back on but hit it again and it goes out again.What can I do for this
Can you measure the voltage at the alternator when you do this and tell me what's going on? You might need an external regulator. It's that or the drive belt is loose.
What about an under drive pulley with the stock belt? Bigger pulley to take up the slack and with all that output out of the alternator, it shouldn't affect it that much.
If anyone wants to read the article in more detail about these systems: www.motor.com/magazine-summary/are-you-smarter-than-a-smart-charging-system/
AnthonyJ350 hey again!
Sorry for the off topic, Hey again!
I’m trying to reach out to you on your latest RUclips video and here hoping you could save me once again
My 350z 2004’s stayed unused around 20 days under temperature ranging from 10 to -2*C since the last ignition
I tried to start it yesterday and today, but the battery seems to have died even though it’s 6 months old
A shop nearby used an amplifier to keep the battery running, but we couldn’t start the car, though fuel pump seems to work properly, as everything else
I’m thinking it’s Alarm/NATS because the red light above the wheel is constant when the key is in ON mode, when it’s in ACC, the light is flashing
Could you confirm that when the red light is constant in ON mode, the car will never start. Or would it stay constantly red in ON mode because it’s usually so?
Thank you greatly for any reply, I’m quite desperate right now
I just bought a 2013 chevy Tahoe LTZ. I ran a 0 gauge ground from battery to fender and another 0 gauge to the alternator bracket. I also ran two 0 gauge positive to the rear for a 2nd battery. I was looking at the factory ground to the engine block that had that sensor. That ground engine block wire look big enough look like almost 0 gauge but I think it's 2 gauge. Will it's be ok to run it like that, I have factory alternator. Will upgrade to mechman later.
@@Catholic1391 Main thing is to monitor voltage and see if it charges and goes through the modes like factory
@@AnthonyJ350
Ok I keep an eye on it's am still waiting on wire harness for Pioneer radio hooking it up to a Orion HCCA 3000.1 that amplifier has three positive and three negative connection.
I tried to post a relevant video from Remy Power Products, & it seems you blocked me??? Or did you?
Although this was posted 5 years ago, a BIG thanks for it. I was scratching my hair out, wondering why my voltage gauge in my 2008 Chevy Avalanche is dropping down to about 13V and, at random times, going up to about 14.6V. I decided to check on this when I noticed the Current Loop sensor on my ground wire from the battery while cleaning up and replacing rotten wire covers. Thanks for the information as I am from the old school that thinks that alternators put out a constant 14.x volts.
Here is how I now think I got to this point and maybe others can relate to this - My voltage gauge was always showing over 14V because my previous battery was getting bad and was not reaching a proper SOC. It was when it got noticeably bad where my truck started to struggle to crank that I decided it is time to change the battery. I replaced it with an Optima Yellow top and that is when the voltage gauge started to read below 14V at random times. What made it complicated was that I was also tracing down a misfire issue (#6 Cyl) and started to think that the misfire issue was related to the battery voltage, not knowing what I know now. Thank you for this video.
Oh your very welcome. Did you upgrade and clean the grounds as well?
This video might help as well ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.htmlsi=fUw72Qla_c1155jU
That's the problem I've been having with my 2011 CTS with a Mechman 240 amp alt. I have a 4000 RMS amp on 2 -12'" and 1200 RMS 4 ch amp when I start jamming certain songs like the song named Previously by PAYROLL GIOVANNI&CARDO the alt starts to ramp up to 15.7+ the service power steering and traction control message pop up but it's fine after it goes back below 15.7 volts. I bought an SMD VM-1 and connected the ground and constant directly to the sub amp to get a more accurate reading. All this time I thought something was wrong with the alternator so I need an external RVC. Thanks for making this video.
Glad to hear you figured out your charging system!
Wheee did you get it from?
Real car audio mad scientist ish man i love it keep it going its old head car audio enthusiasts don't know what to do with all these new sensors and things thanks a ton mane
Appreciate it!
Thank you!!! I couldn't muddle through the Motor article because of the way it was written and I've been trying to figure out how this whole bit works for years. You just gave the best explanation, no "extras" just to count words and with examples of what you're saying.
Glad you liked the video!
I got a 2019 Chevy Cruze RS 1.4 turbo engine and It does the same thing !! 12.5 volts with day lights on and climbs to 13.6 with night lights on !! When I un plug the wire from ecm battery lights comes on but 13.6 steady!! Thanks for the video it reassures me ! I was about to change everything 😊
Glad the video helped you out!
Thanks for the video. I bought a 2015 Sierra Denali 2 days ago and put on close to 400 miles yesterday. All interstate miles. And about 3/4 the way to my destination I noticed my voltage was reading in the 13 range. I was a little worried. But the rain stopped and my lights went off. On the return trip my lights came on about 1/2 home and it went back up to 14 again. This was interesting to learn about.
At least you know it's normal
@traviz no shit I got a 2012 sierra on Saturday, put 500 miles on it, and then noticed it went to like 12/13 and then back to 14. Crazy
Hmm
Very informative video! I remember my 04 GMC did not have this amp clamp. 1st time I saw it was on my 06 Monte Carlo and GMC. I think they started this in 05 when they went to the dual electric fans. Now all GM cars have this feature.
The crappy thing is the newer vehicle clamps are so small you can't add a ground wire, you can only replace.
Thanks for this video. I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 LT loaded except no OnStar. I also have a 600 watt amp. I don’t see the clamp for PCM controlled voltage. My battery at rest today was 11.8V. After running it shows 12.6V. My issue is my volt meter (dash) at start has a rapid bounce between 14-17V. As soon as the idle lowers below 1000rpm it sit at 14+. When I drive, the same thing happens above 1000rpm, then come to a stop and it’s steady 14+. I noticed you changed the normal small alt to junction block wire to a large gauge wire. Could it be that small wire (fusible link) causing this? I’ve been chasing bad grounds but I’m stumped to the cause. Please help if you can.
I have a 03 Chevy suburban 1500 Z71 4wheel drive. I just replaced the battery and alternator and I'm still getting a reading on my dash that says Battery not charging and the battery light comes on and off, what's the next thing I can try before going to the dealership because they did replace my PCM less than a year ago
How old is the alternator?
Finaly... the information i've been lQQking for, i just picked up a used 2005 GMC Sierra 1500(single cab/shortbed/4.3L v6/automatic/181k original miles), my first truck ever, it has the same guage cluster shown in this video, and im from the USA btw. Just after starting the truck, the factory voltmeter guage would be at 14v, then after driving around for around for a few minutes, the voltmeter would start to go downwards, showing less voltage, and this is during daylight hours, but when its dark out, like heading off to work in the early morning, the voltmeter guage stays at a constant 14v like normal. Now knowing what GM has installed on most of its newer vehicles, the clamp meter on the negative cable side of the battery, this all makes sense to me because of its design, i have a brand new battery thats within 2weeks old, it starts up fine, and honestly, i was ready to pull the alternator out to have it checked, now i see i dont have too, everything appears a-ok. FYI, i happen to have a "ScanGuage" device that you can mount on the dash, by velcro, in front of the factory guage cluster, or elsewhere if you prefer, and it connects directly to the OBDII port, you can check all sorts of vital information with it that the PCM sees. I set the scanguage device to the voltmeter function and watch it as im driving, after starting the vehicle, the display shows 14.4v, and dips down as low as 12.6v after driving around for a few minutes, and that is during daylight hours, again, when running in the early morning hours when its still dark out, the display shows a constant 14.4v for miles on end, no doubt because of the electrical load from the headlights, driving lights and tail lights that automaticall come on with no other accessories in use, other than listening to radio/cd player at low volume, other than that, the truck is factory stock.
Thanks for watching!
So how do u fix the problem broo ? I have the same problem with my tahoe 2008
@@williamgonzalez7167 Theres no problem, its completely normal.... look for a device thats attached to the negative battery cable near the negative side of the battery, it senses the battery voltage. As the alternator charges up the battery after starting the vehicle, the instrument cluster guage will typically read +14.4v at first, then slowly drops down as the battery is being charged back up to its nominal voltage of +12.6, its GMs way of not overcharging the battery and shortening its life and/or cause it to swell up prematurely, smart charging basically.
Nice video! Honda is similar, I installed a bypass on a switch so when I'm really bumpin hard, idling I can flick it on. For kicks I left the bypass on for a week and it's CRAZY how much gas mileage you lose.
Do you have a video explaining how?
That's interesting, I didn't know that.
Hi, what kind of bypass switch did you install? I mean what's it called, where does it go and where do I get it? I have a Honda Accord and I need more amps lol
Yep, the charging energy has to cone from somewhere.
Great video! Fixed all of the problems I was having, just by running the grounds through that stupid sensor! Thanks again for your video!
So glad to hear the video helped you! 🙂
Can I ask more about what your comment means or what you did. My voltage constantly dances. It doesn’t just go up and then down after a bit. Had the charging system checked out they said it was fine. They said my alternator was fine. My battery was fine. Truck just struggles to stay consistent to a point it’s going from 13 to 17. 14 to 15. 13 to 17. As I’m driving, you can hear my AC fan speed fluctuating up and down up and down. It’s kind of annoying when you’re driving.
DUDE!!! THANK YOU!!!! I've been chasing bad grounds, testing alternator and battery. Im getting a low voltage code on my o2 sensors and I didn't know if the two were related. Now I know they're not. My 05 GMC is my baby and im so happy I watched this. I do still have a battery light, but these years GMCs and Chevs are notorious for instument cluster problems.
I'm glad the video helped you! I have a bunch of videos for these trucks. This one might help you ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks bro I'll watch it tomorrow after work. Im gonna subscribe! Thank you SO MUCH
@@DM-qp7do Thanks for subscribing!
Well my voltage goes up and down and my battery expanded but I don't get battery light on on my cluster. Could it be the voltage regulator?
Voltage and current have an inversely proportional relationship. Adjusting system voltage means adjusting current draw - the fuse/switch/relay/sensor and wiring specs all have to be within a specific range - and this is why grounding is so important.
Thanks for the comment!
Can you tell me how the voltage gauge operates? On a 2003 Silverado 5.3, I'm aware that this is being fed by class 2 serial data, but do you know what the "range" of values are that instruct the stepper motor to read from 9 to 19 volts?
Sorry I don't know the parameters for the gauge operation.
A few years late but, did you run the engine ground through the RVC alone or with other cables? and if you run the cable through the RVC can I add the other grounds after to a distro block to the battery.
Yes ran additional grounds through the sensor. After the sensor, yes you can run multiple grounds to a distribution point.
So i kind of grasp the concept of this. Recently replaced the alternator and battery in my 2013 Chevy Tahoe 5.3l. Idle is fine and flat cruising is fine, but when accelerating in any form i get serious light flicker...im stumped.. no sound system, everything is stock, any pointers on your end? Thanks for your knowledge!
I would check all the grounds on the engine and chassis.
I have a 2015 Silverado 2500 LT 4x4. I just bought an Iraggi 320Amp Alternator. I'm planning on upgrading my battery to a AM XS-D3400. I need your expertise ! The forums do no justice ! From what I can tell, I need to do the generic big 3. Then I get confused, do I then run the ground from my alternator through the clamp and then to my battery? Or ALL grounds? can you specify.. or is there a way to get ahold of you .. on a forum... anywhere to chat faster?
You'll want to run all the grounds either multiple or just one 0 gauge from the battery through the clamp.
Thanks
What is function of piece near rotor brush
It is regulator or just connector
Specially in chrysler cars
Which part in the video?
Thank you, I was wondering why my voltage kept dropping to 13.3v then randomly at 14.4v after getting a HO alt. Mine mainly does it at idle.
Everything works well though?
Newer alternator & battery (6 months old). Last night while on 3 hour drive the battery gauge dropped and "Battery Not Charging" light came on. Shortly thereafter it returned to normal and volatage held steady. About two hours later volatage again drastically dropped and the battery warning light came on. It again was short lived and returned to normal voltage setting on battery gauge.
I checked the connections on the battery and the alternator all connections seem secure.
Any suggestions what else I should be looking for? 2004 GMC Yukon Denali and it's stock with not mods.
Do you have the clamp sensor on the negative terminal?
2002 silverado, alternator wont 'wake up' until 5-10 minutes into the drive
(battery light on!)
and sometimes it wont until I rev it past 3000, then it will slowly ramp up and not give me any more issues.... ? Bad brush?
Maybe, original alternator?
I have a 2009 GMC Sierra 5.3. I am currently running on a stock alternator and I’m looking to get a bigger one and do the big 3. Is your pickup still doin good? I’m just worried I’m going to screw somethin up. Thanks
My truck runs and works great, I also drive it everyday with a 30 min commute to work.
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks!
I wonder is this whats happening with my battery voltage in my Charger....I have 370 mechman alt...2 agm batteries...and done a big( 3) 2 months ago...My voltage reads 13.0-13.4 at idle....but once i start driving voltage jumps up to 14.3- 14.7.....sound system push around 1500 watts...voltage fluctuate like you describe in video...Do i need add more ground connections
Did you upgrade the ground from the battery in the back to the new amplifier?
@@AnthonyJ350 I upgrade ground 1/0 Gauge to both batteries....and positive (+) 1/0 Gauge from battery to Alt
@@mr.earnings What is the voltage when you turn on your headlights at idle?
@AnthonyJ350 13.1 when headlights on at idle...once I'm driving voltage will jump up to 14.1-- 14.7
@@mr.earnings Turn off your audio and see if it acts the same. Might be just the way the PCM is programmed from factory
So I have a Ford but I think you’re still a good person to ask. My alternator is regulated by the pcm, and planned on adding a regulator because I have a 4,000 rms system, and 3 huge agm batteries, 370 amp alternator, and big three but somehow I still dip down into low 13s high 12s on the expressway. I have a ~500 amp draw if all 3 amps are doing their rms (which is super rare) so more like a consistent 350.
Would the regulator help at all?
Ya I think you're going to need an external regulator to force the alternator to maintain 14.5 volts. Secondary sealed AGM battery isn't a bad idea to add on as well.
question for u i have 2 lishen banks max charging 14.6. i just bought a high out alt that will put out 14.8 v. will my truck regulate the voltage or will i charge at 14.8 my truck is a 2002 gmc yukon xl 5.3l is really don’t want to over charge my cells also i have a maxwell super cap under the hood. i dont have any kinda agm or lead acid battery’s i have the big 3 and am running close to 7 k
2002 wouldn't have an RVC system so I'm willing to bet you alternator will be 14.5 - 14.8 volts all the time. I would look into upgrading to an Odyssey battery.
Great video. Very informative. I have a 08 suburban LT. Been having some weird electrical issues. Started with locks clicking up and down and speedo and tach going crazy. Other messages on DIC like stabilitrack. Replaced alternator and everything seemed fine. Then started having an issue where I'd park the truck and turn off. Come back out to start up and nothing happens. No key fab unlock, no lights on dash when I put key into ignition. Truck wouldn't turn over or anything. I'd jump it and it would turn on. So after all this I replaced the alternator and battery. Not the top of the line battery and 160 amp new alternator. Had the same thing happen, voltage dropped real low, parked it and turned it off and had nothing when I tried to start it. Called AAA and by the time the tow truck got there, about an hour, I tried starting it and it started up. I exchanged the alternator again and so far it's been ok. I do watch the dash more carefully. It does fluctuate but seems to run real similar to your video. The lowest voltage I'd see was around 13.2 volts. I left a multimeter hooked up and turned the truck off and saw voltage go down to about 12.79 volts and stayed there. Started the truck and it went to about 14.78. Crossing my fingers! I love my grocery getter.
Thanks for watching! You might find this video helpful as well ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
So I have a 2013 Cadillac ATS that I just replaced the battery and now the save battery is active and says check charging system I put in a full charged battery and load tested as well. Does this mean the Alternator is not kicking in because it’s fully charged and I should turn on all accessories to make the alternator charge the battery ?I followed the steps that Cadillac recommended when changing battery and turning to acc mode before turning engine on for 3 minutes. Please help Thank you
Some cars have a procedure that's specific when changing the battery. Those are the only steps you listed?
Does it matter what direction the sensor is? Is the sensor placed between the negative post half a foot away and then after that the rest of the ground cables are grounded to the rest of the chassis, body and engine (or it doesn't matter)?
I would install the sensor in the same orientation the manufacturer did just in case.
Great video, I did not know about the Battery Current Sensor or the RVC system. I'm currently running a AGM 12V 1000 watt 18 ah Power Cell as a secondary for my Class D amp in my 2010 awd Escalade Luxury. I have my main 0 aught wire connected to the main battery under my hood in the engine compartment. I'm running that 0aught wire back to my power cell in the back and then I grounded to the back floor panel (grinded the area down to bare metal first). Would I need to somehow run a ground through the BCS for my amp? I got my new Sensor a few days ago, so I'm looking for your opinion on how to disconnect and reconnect the BCS Sensor. Also how do I know if I need the 1st BCS design or the second BCS design. One is for 5volt Power supply coming from BCM and the other is 2nd design 10volt Power supply coming from the BCM?
Can you run 0 gauge from the original battery through the sensor? Then just ground the secondary battery at the negative terminal of the original.
@@AnthonyJ350 yeah I see how that would be the best way to do it, So I'm running a 0 gauge power wire from my main battery back to my second battery and then to my amp. The secondary battery and my amp are in the back cargo area of my Escalade, I'm guessing that would be to long of a run for a ground wire if I were to run a 0gauge from my main battery through the BCS and back to my secondary. Unless of course I misunderstood your reply, which I forgot to thank you for replying, so thank you Sir for the feedback.
I had leds in my taillights for the brake/turn signal but single filiment 7440 bulb and it killed my stock agm battery, then dropped in an xs power D4800 agm battery in my 2018 Chevy Malibu. But I was told at my local Chevy dealer where I work my car has Regulated Voltage Control. My Battery will stay at 13-13.5 volts, is my Regulated Voltage Control kicking in by reducing voltage?
Probably, what happens when you turn on your lights? Will it got to 14.5 volts eventually? Also can't the mechanic plug into their scan tool and see how the alternator is operating?
@@AnthonyJ350 it's already back to stock for 6 months now.
@@seangowan7441 And does the voltage act the exact same?
@@AnthonyJ350 it stays at 14.0+ volts with the big 3 and stock battery.
Could you explain more about the voltage dropping with a sound system? 2024 Chevy, I have 130 amp alt, 1000 rms amp, 0 gauge wire no big 3, my voltage is dropping down to 12 while driving sometimes and going back up to 14.
What if you turn on the headlights? Does the charging system drop with the sound system on?
@@AnthonyJ350 charging voltage with engine on system on will randomly go from 12.0- 14.5. No set indicator of what’s causing it. I can turn on all my accessories and it can go to 14.5, I can also turn it all off and be driving down the road with it at 12.0.
How would you bypass the system, being that I’ve just installed a large amp and need constant higher voltage?
You need an external voltage regulator to control the alternator. I would contact MechMan
Hi my battery light came on today. But i dont use the truck a lot. I just remote start it every day. Do you think my alternator when bad or is just not putting up the voltage because i dont drive it? Thanks
Idling a vehicle a lot isn't good for it. If you're using the alternator to charge the battery when it's low that's really hard on it
AnthonyJ350 ok. Thanks
Very helpful! Thank you. While I was driving it dropped down and I was concerned. While watching this video it actually came back up to "normal" appreciate the info!
Glad it helped you! If you're concerned, turn on the headlights and it should go up to 14.5 (it takes a little bit for it to kick up).
@@AnthonyJ350 yep I did while I was driving. It didn't go all the way up but I'm going to put a meter on it. I have a feeling the factory gauge is reading a little low.
@@Jonnydeerhunter Let us know what you find
@@AnthonyJ350
Sure thing
Quick question if you could answer this. I have a 2005 Ford Escape 3.0L car and having issues with it running. When I check the voltage on my car battery when the car is running it is overcharging the battery. It sometimes can get up to 18 Volts. I was wondering with your knowledge of voltage if you could provide any advice for what may be causing this. I replaced the battery with a brand new one and I'm still having this overcharge issue which in turn is making my car run very poorly and my electronics in my car turn on and off. I also just replaced my alternator last year and I did pull it off to bench test it and it passed. I was wondering if you think the PCM could be the potential cause of all this or something else? Any advice would greatly be appreciative. Nice video by the way I learned a few things from it.
Are the battery terminals clean and well secured? Were you driving the vehicle for a while with a bad battery? Has the vehicle been jump started or put on a battery charger set to "high" or "start" setting?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, battery terminals are clean and secured. Its a new battery. I don't think I was driving around for awhile with a bad battery. It was okay for awhile when i disconnected one of the terminals. If they were connected the battery would drain. The new battery has not been jumped yet. It has enough charge right now. It just overcharges when the car runs. Thanks for answering back.
My 2018 Chevy Malibu has the Regulated Voltage Control System and I have an amp and sub. 600 watt RMS at 1 ohm single 12" subwoofer with a 800 watt RMS at 1 ohm mono amp. And in the first time I start the car and go to work at 12 pm my voltmeter goes to 15 volts for a while even with the radio. Do I need a battery upgrade to keep up with my power hungry equipment.
I would upgrade the grounds and it doesn't hurt to put a Northstar Battery in.
I got a 400amp alternator for my 08 trailblazer has 3 batteries and a 8000 watt rms amp……I just got a voltage regulator that’s higher 15v it should still sit around the normal 14.7-8 I’d say…….doc you think this is a good move ?
I would want the voltage to be at 14.5V - 14.8V
Hello i have a 2005 Chevy tahoe it was driving fine then all of a sudden it stopped. It wont crank over at all none of my gauge hands are moving. All lights work so battery is good i jumped start my starter and it works. I looked at the sensor on black wire to battery o don't know what sensor that is but o opened it up and it look like oil was inside of and the harness thats connected to it. I don't know were the harness goes too seems like it goes under fuse box. What should I do?
You might want to look into this ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
I wanted to buy a mechman ho alternator for my lexus rx 2017, and mechman said they dont have any past 2015. But they have universal alternators. My main concern is Buy using a modified ho alternator in certain cars, hurt, or damage anything with the system?.
You'd have to research the system. You have to make sure you can reconnect everything (plugs) or else the computer may think something is wrong and turn on warning lights or operate differently.
The issue I have with my current sensor is I put a 2nd battery in on a smart isolator that kicks in at 13.2. Problem is my current sensor floats between 12.5-13 so my smart isolator doesn’t kick in and charge my 2nd battery. The current sensor just bounces between 12.5-13, and when my regulator does bump up voltage past 13.2, my second battery kicks in and causes the sensor to bump the voltage back down under 13.2. And just cycles that over and over. Any suggestions?
The one thing I’ve done that makes the dual battery set up work perfectly is unplugging the sensor. When I do that my system stays at a steady 14.3 while engine is running
I honestly prefer a regular heavy duty solenoid that engages as soon as it sees 12 volts ignition. I personally combine my batteries to be hooked up all the time and install fusible links at both batteries for safety. I just connect the secondary battery to the positive terminal of the main battery and ground to chassis. Let me know if that works for you, that's how I wired up a 2018 Silverado 2500HD recently.
I have a 2019 camaro and my voltage is 14.5v or 13.5v sometimes but most of the times it goes to 12.4v and keeps going for a long time like that and then again go back to 13.5 or 14.1 for like 3 to 5 minutes and than again it got drop to 12.4v is this will be same case ?
Possibly, your car is under warranty still. Did you try bringing it to the dealership?
Got a new battery sometimes my voltage shows 14 sometimes it shows 12... I have an 05 Escalade 6.0... shouldn’t it stay at 14 all the time it shows pretty low when I don’t drive it for a day or 2 and turn the key over to start it and once started it will either go to 14 or just go to 12 and stay. Or go to 14 then go down to 12 and stay. I don’t get it. Is my alternator bad or is my vehicle one of those that does what u said in this video?.. the whole not using such a load and saving energy.? I thought it would be the BCM , but not sure what to replace or to replace anything at all. Also not sure if it being 30 degrees the past week is gonna cause some issues or not.
Did you watch the whole video?
I have a 2011 Chevy 1500 Silverado with 5.3 replaced the battery; charges fine til i turn on AC then it shuts off alternator and it wont restart til I shut off motor and restart it; any Thoughts?
Are you blowing fuses?
How do you know the alternator is shutting off?
Really detailed video, thanks for this!
Glad you liked it!
Hi I have a 12in kicker ran from a 1000w pioneer amp it works good when the truck is off, or when I unplugged the alternator control it worked, but the lights died so I plugged it back in, once I did that the amp would cut in and out of protect mode. What do you think is wrong
What is the voltage of the truck when idling?
Same problem in Toyota Camry hybrid 2023. Struggling with since two months. I want to run XS yinlong bank 80ah.
What does the voltage drop down to?
What is that sensor called? The one that you’re pointing to in between the battery and the alternator. Thank you and great video sir!
I call it a "current sensor".
Thank you my friend
I have a upgraded sound system in my car (Chrysler 300). When I had the stock alternator it used to read 14v at idle with the upgraded system. I installed a Mechman 320 amp alternator and it started to read 12v at idle. Come to find out the alternator can’t handle a big load on low idle so I changed the pulley to a smaller one and the rectifier on the alternator and now idles at 13v. Should I still put an external voltage regulator on to reach back up to the 14v or no?
Does it ever go to 14 volts?
@@AnthonyJ350 no not at idle and not when the system it playing loud either.
2012 2500hd with a plow that just started to cut off the radio and cluster all lights go dim or off, (when I try to lift the plow). Now it won't even lift the plow and when I have the plow hooked up, when I try to roll both windows up at the same time everything blacks out for a few seconds cluster gauges zero out and black out but truck stays running.
Test both batteries with them disconnected. If they're over 4 years old, change them both. Then upgrade grounds from battery to chassis, motor and cab.
I have a 1999 GMC 2500 4X4 with 56000 miles. Looks and runs like new. Problem is the pulsing lights and meter. I cleaned and checked many grounds (6). Engine to frame, frame to body and battery grounds. No help. Something of note.... if I move gear selector in neutral and RPM drops to under 700, everything is fine. Can you help?
You can also try upgrading the positive wire from the alternator to the battery with another 4 gauge wire. Did you just clean the grounds or did you add?
@@AnthonyJ350 Add 2. Engine to frame I used another braided strap and frame to body. They are near the original straps. I will upgrade the positive from batt. to alt.
Thanks for the help!
I have an 05 Avalanche and while driving this morning a warning came across my dash "stability system disabled" what would cause that?
You might have to clean up and update some of the grounds on the truck ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
Thanks for the info. Have same system in my Nissan Patrol Y62. Alpine PXA-H800 monitors the variable voltage and drives me nuts untill now why it does it. Thanks 😊 again
Glad it helped, I have another video that goes into this subject if you're modifying ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
good morning, if I have any aftermarket installed on my car. and I installed a larger battery from 45Ah to 95Ah. Is it worth re-adjusting the "smart charger" to charge the battery more? I mean, set through the ECU or through some resistance that the alternator leaves the battery more charged than the one set by the house, which did not provide for the greater user.
Best thing you can do is upgrade the grounds on the charging system.
@@AnthonyJ350 Sorry for my English. I didn't mean a higher amp draw peak. But I needed a longer absorption while the car was off. therefore charging the battery at a higher voltage (not 13.2 but 14.8 at moment of turning off) could leave more amps to absorb during the parking period with no engine. Is it possible with some workaround on RVC-ECM-BMO-resistance or other?
@@EmilianoVincenzoPorzio If you need more reserve capacity it's best to add another battery ran in parallel. I'll find a video for you.
@@EmilianoVincenzoPorzio Here's a video where I add a second battery ruclips.net/video/P8U9djm9_l8/видео.html
So 2 questions. 1. Where did you get that alternator? 2. I have a smart alternator and I wanna hook up an air horn and a light bar but still retain the smart features. Is hooking the negative up to the battery okay or should I put it on the frame or body somewhere?
I installed a Mechman alternator, give them a call if you're not sure which one to buy. Here is the install video ruclips.net/video/uzcVPcldvBU/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks. What about hooking up the air horn and light bar?
@@yourboyLYLE Hook them up with a fuse through a relay. So each device will need its own fuse and own relay off the battery or power distribution.
@@AnthonyJ350 the wiring harnesses already have there own relays and fuses. Would that work or would I have to plug in to the truck fuse box
@@yourboyLYLE If they have fuses and relays you can just attach straight to the battery.
i have a 2005 chevy silverdo 1500 and i did a v6 to v8 swap . I used a wiring harness and engine from a 2003 2500HD with a 6 litre which did not have a generator battery control module . Now my battery light is on all the time . How do i get my light to go out . The gauge said it is charging about 14 volts .Thanks Keith
Are you using the computer from the 2003 as well to control the engine?
@@AnthonyJ350 I am using the v6 computer that was tuned for the LQ4
@@keithbradley9976 Can you see if the tumer can turn off the RVC feature?
@@AnthonyJ350 I will ask
@@keithbradley9976 I'm also not sure if the ECU controls the system or the BCM. I wonder if you grab the BCM from that 2500HD if the problem would go away.
Thanks! Great video man! 👍
Glad you liked it!
I recently bought a 2013 Chevy Silverado 1500 with a 5.3 V8. When I was on my way home the voltage dropped to under 14 volts so I stopped and Replaced the alternator. Started driving again and about 75 miles into my trip the voltage drops again. I am Like WTF! so at this point I decided to just keep going and get home. But then from time to time the voltage would come back up and then drop again. I asked the service dept at Chevy what the deal is and they said that this was the way the new ones are designed! WTF! Wish I knew that! Would have saved me $175 on a alternator! Wish they would inform people of this when they buy these vehicles! Not to mention this just does not seem normal to me. Voltage drops I automatically assume charging system is not working.
I can understand the frustration, but a feature like that no place is going to inform consumers. Did they explain overdrive and lock up function of the torque converter when you bought it, or would you expect them to?
They would expect you to bring it back and bring it to their attention.
@@AnthonyJ350 I would have been nice if someone said something I had no idea such a system existed
@@leealberts9590 Yaaaa unfortunately I don't see people proactively telling people. That's why we make videos like this to help explain jt
0
Is it really normal? When i got a new battery it would always stay at 14 but after a while it started dropping on my 2013 tahoe hopefully its true and something doesnt fail on me
Can you help
Me out I have a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I've got the new alternator and battery and for 2 weeks it drove perfect now it's going to 12-13-12-11v now stuck at 11 do I need a new ecm or grounds connected to alternator and car ground?
@@BASSWRANGLER2000 Preciate it
I would clean and/or redo the grounds for the charging system and computer if you can. It's a start and won't hurt anything.
Good intimative video man... Okay my scenario is... 07 tahoe smart charging but I have a powerful sound system & dual batteries, how should I bypass the smart charging in order to connect my battery isolator & have it function properly?
Get a Mechman Alternator with an external voltage regulator.
have a 2016 GMC Sierra and my charging system is very wired sometime it will stay at 14 amps but when it gets hot it drops down to 12.8 have replaced 5 alt and 5 batteries
have added a sound system and some led ditch lights do not understand this system and can not get a clear answer other than that is the way it works hove up graded the grounds and replaced the ground cable that has the amp reader still does the same
That's how my RVC system works. I also made this ground upgrade video ruclips.net/video/i3QQAtogW40/видео.htmlsi=z3-paTnA4LFl_l8q
If I hook up my amplifier ground cable directly to the negative post of my battery, Does the cable need to go thru the hole ring in the sensor?
I would so the charging system can see the draw being pulled through the system.
Your description say 2000 gm vehicles and I'm pretty sure that cluster is from 03 or newer and I have only seen those current sensor on 05 or newer but that cluster isn't American I assume Canada but we're things different or is this an 05 ,06, or 07 classic
I believe you're right on the years.
Have a question I have a 2008 gmc Yukon SLT I was driving noticed my dash was going crazy doors locking and unlock pulled over battery post we're loose but notice it sparked when I closed the hood well the wrong battery post we're on there so changed everything out new battery and post it was fine now this morning it started fine then driving I noticed that it went below the middle a.nocth or two is this normal still driving no bleeking or anything do I need to change alternator
If you're driving for a while and the battery has a good charge, Ive seen my voltage drop down to 12.8. Turn your lights on and drive and see if it hangs out at 14.5.
I have another video that might help.
ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
I have a Silverado 2008 , i am almost a mont trying to solve (the problem) now i know isnt a problem, thank you so much for these informtion.
Glad it helped! Now you can make the truck better by upgrading the wiring keeping this in mind. ruclips.net/video/OqylgRKiC-A/видео.html
What other issues were you experiencing? On mine, the headlights get brighter when I rev the engine with the AC or heater on.
I actually didn't experience any issues. Just didn't understand the voltage fluctuations on the gauge making me think something was wrong.
I changed my alternator, my plugs, and my coils. My voltage meter is still flying around. I’m going to clean the connectors and check the ground. Was wondering if a bad battery could be the culprit too
Bad battery can do it. Check the standing voltage.
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you my man
Is it possible this unit fluctuate or malfunction so bad that it can keep the vehicle from running due to starving power to pcm?
I would check the health of the battery and clean off all the factory grounds. Are the gauges shutting off?
This video might help ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
There's a small ground on the back of the engine block under the intake manifold. It might be broken causing your issues.
Wow ok so yes I’m having that problem right as now I’m pushing a 6k system Rms and I have an mechman 320 alt , xs power D3400 under the hood and one in the back! I was thinking it was my Alternator aswell… so my battery charging system come on when I’m sitting not really putting current through it, but when I start bumping the voltage goes up within like 30 to 40 sec I would guess… I need help on what to do? I just dnt like the battery light coming on while I’m sitting
What kind of vehicle? Did you upgrade the grounds on the engine going to chassis and engine?
@@AnthonyJ350 2017 Chevy Impala yes I did the big 3
My 2013 Nissan Altima has something similar but instead in runs as low as 12.2 when the engine is under load and only charges back to 14.5 when you begin to brake. I disconnected a wire within the pcm harness so it continues to regulate its voltage but now it stays at 14 consistently and throws no battery light.
It might rack the voltage up to aid engine braking. I would monitor your gas mileage with it bypassed and see if it gets affected.
AnthonyJ350 Yeap that's what it was designed to do. My gas mileage went down about 2mpgs since its mostly city miles which is fine with me as long as it works correctly.
270trevon My 2014 Ford Explorer does the same exact thing. I’m running a 5000 watt stereo though. It will sit around 13.0, and then shoot up to like 14.6-14.8 when braking. When the bass drops, it easily goes as low as 12.6-12.7.
Yo, I have a Nissan Sentra and I sit around 12.3v, sometimes lower. I'm curious about this wire you unplugged to constant charge to your batts
@@SilverSurfer910 you ever fix? 2013 f150 with CES 370 and it's charging at like 14.2 but I need like 14.8
What kinda Straps are those holding the positive cables together? Wish my engine bay was that clean
Which minute mark in the video?
@@AnthonyJ350 what is holding your wired together. Looks like velco or is that just fancy electric tape
@@daviddavis3619 Exterior TESA tape
@@daviddavis3619 You can find a lot of items I use in my Amazon store. Just check out the links on my channel.
I’m lost at the moment lol . I have a 2006 GMC Sierra. I replaced my battery about 4 months ago. I had a yellow top battery beforehand. I recently had my battery light come on, so I replaced my alternator. Ran good for two weeks. My truck came with an amp (from previous owner) & my battery light came on again. & I noticed on the highway today when I had my music on kinda high & I was accelerating I noticed the battery voltage gauge dropping the more I accelerated & when I let the gas go the gauge would go back up to 14. ANY suggestions at all ?
The clamp meter on the negative terminal might need to be replaced.
This video on the grounds might help as well ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.htmlsi=2tjAlby7MqiTBdOv
@@AnthonyJ350 you’re awesome thank you
@@trigg3306 You're welcome, I have a bunch of videos on these trucks you can check out.
Hi there
So i have a nissan versa 2018
And i have the same. Smart system
And a i have an 15vsetpoint 320 amp alternator at the house
The alternator is made for my car
Do i will have the same deal like yours?
And i will have the big3 with 0 wire
Can i also use the factory wire from the alt to the battery?
Thank uu
You'll definitely want to upgrade the wiring if you amp is putting out that much power. Is the a clamp anywhere on the battery cables?
I dont know what u mean for clamp.
But i will do the big3 1/0 gauge.
But can i also use the factory wire plus the 1/0 going from the alternator to the battery?
My factory wire have a fuse link right at the pocitive pole "a big black box"
Ok my main question is this even if the PCM kicks in and starts doing this and drops my charging to 13.8 where it's supposed to be at won't it still be charging at say hypothetically 290 amps at 13.8 volts if my alt is that size well I know it will produce less at idle but you get what I'm saying right say my original alternator was 100 amps and I've upgraded to a 290 amp model even if the PCM kicks in and drops the voltage to 13.8 won't it still be charging 2 1/2 times faster than it was originally just wondering I'm brand new to lithium and HO alternator etc and I just bought my first EVER lithium battery and about to order a 290 amp from autotech but my car is PCM controlled 19 Camry and im wondering about stuff like this any advice would be greatly appreciated
I don't use lithium in vehicles. I just use traditional flooded or AGM.
@@AnthonyJ350 ok that doesn't tell me if I'm still receiving 290 amps at the different voltages
@@SlamryCamry19 I would put a clamp meter on it to measure output.
I have a 2500 same gen as you and the volt gage on the cluster fluctuates back and forth every second, but the voltmeter says its far more steady. Any ideas?
At 14v
It's possible the stepper motor in the gauge cluster is faulty, it's a common thing to happen on these trucks.
I have 05 silverado it always strong at 14 or above. Added a system and nothing changed. Now the volatge goes to 14. Then drops to about 12. Whats the reason
It goes to 12 flat?
@@AnthonyJ350 it's gradually falls. I found out the battery terminal was stripped. Changed it out so far it hold between 15 and 16
@@breadwinnerkane9661 Nice, ya a poor connection will do that. Glad you figured it out.
Extremely useful info. I have a G37x and was wondering why the car would start up and start charging at 14.5ish (for anywhere from a few minutes to barely a minute) and then drop to 13.6 then drop down to 13 and then hover there.
In theory you would get more life out of your battery and better fuel economy on the highway.
@@AnthonyJ350 It's actually causing more trouble than its worth. I rarely do long trips, I typical drive maybe 8-15km on a 'busy' day so my battery is always undercharged so I've gotten into the habit of hooking her up to a trickle charger once every few days to top it off. You think it would be a good idea to go ahead and disable it?
@@qwertyboi32 How old is the battery?
Just over 3 years old. Still holds 12.6 when fully charged so probably still healthy.
@@qwertyboi32 Does the car only see short drives?
Have a 2002 gmc Yukon xl with a 5.3. Alternator overcharges at 18.9 and blew up battery. Changed alternator and batt, same results. Any ideas?
I also checked all grounds and voltage at battery and alt. Thanks
You'll have to research if the PCM controls it. There is a ground wire in the back of the block under the intake manifold. Make sure that one is ok. I cover it in my GM truck electrical maintenance video.
I have a problem with my f150 06 voltage meter is falling out and lossing power then going back to normal
Did you try regrounding the truck?
What do I need to up my voltage? JEEP Commander. I have a sound system with an extra battery in the back. Its a C Max lithium so I'm buying an isolator but still need my voltage to at least 14.8
Cal Mechman and talk to them about their alternators and external voltage regulators.
@@AnthonyJ350 will do
I have a 2005 tahoe good battery good alternator but the voltage drops and the ac wont work or heated seats wont work but if i run the windshield wipers it brings the voltage up and i can use the ac i dont know
I would first investigate the factory grounds, clean then and apply dielectric grease ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
Thank you for this information. I was looking for it
Glad it helped!
Where did you get that digital gauge from?
The digital gauge is in my radar system
Thank you for the videos with the explanation of the GM charging system and upgrading the grounds.
I have a problem with my 2006 Silverado. All the lights, headlights, dash lights, interior lights pulsating and the voltmeter bouncing when the truck is running and while driving.
When I turn the truck off with the headlights still on the pulsating stops and the lights are steady. The battery is about a year old and good quality and the cable connections clean. The alternator was replaced 7 months ago with a remanufactured alternator. I plan to add the ground cables as described in your video but I also wonder if it could be a bad voltage regulator in the reman alternator.
If you have any idea what is causing the lights to pulsate I would appreciate your advice.
I would test the voltage of the alternator. Also the current sensor clamp (on the ground wire off the battery) might be faulty.
@@AnthonyJ350 Update, It was the alternator. I took it back to the store I purchased it at and while it tested in operating range they agreed to replace it after I complained about the voltage fluctuating. Working good now no light flicker. Thanks for your help.
@@iphotonw7032 Good to hear you got it sorted out.
I have a problem in my GM 2006 I install a mechman alternator and my voltage goes up and down and the engine runs weird
How can I make my Hyundai Accent charge at 15.5 volts? I wanted to run a lithium battery to power a sound system
Aftermarket alternator with am external voltage regulator you can adjust.
How big of a sound system?
Any info in regards to the blue wire of the plug of the sarvc, looking for the location to where it connects to in the wiring harness, clymer service manual is only so much help. thank you...
Not sure, you would have to check with AllData.
Hi AnthonyJ350 great video i have 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE my truck kills my alternator and battery once a year i was told that it was RVC in my PCM and that i need to replace my PCM.Any help would be great thank you in advance
Check your diodes in the alternator.
Most common is the voltage regulator failures. Go to Canadian tire get tested !
What's the voltage when driving around?
I have a 2002 Avalanche and I've been chasing this similar problem however in case my voltage drops down to almost 9 volts after the the vehicle has been running for a bit than if I tap the gas it will go up to 14 and of course all my lights go bright, dose my truck have this and will it cause miss fires, I have no system in it I do however run after market performance parts in including a 255 Amp alternator
Hmmm your truck won't have the RVC system. It might be a ground issue. You'll want to upgrade the grounds regardless and the positive wire from the alternator to the battery. This video might help you with the factory grounds ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 so I've actually done all of that including the big 3 upgrade as well as a 4 gauge wire feed from the alternator, that's why this is such a mystery to figure out I can seem to pinpoint where the power draw is coming from.
@@christophermurray2707 Did you check the really thin ground wire that's attached to the back of the block underneath the intake manifold?
@@AnthonyJ350 yes I did, I even replaced it with a 10 gauge wire. I do have an idea that it may be the ignition coil Harnesses because I'm running MSD blaster coil packs with their wiring attachment for the extra power pull but I have a feeling that the stock harness wires are shot and can't handle the amount of draw over an extended period of time so I ordered a performance wire harness from summit so we'll see how that works.
@@christophermurray2707 Are you talking about this one? ruclips.net/video/vJea4w731_Y/видео.html
My 05 Avalanche with RVC looks like a disco party going down the road. People have actually recorded me going down the road (without me even knowing) and showed me the video the next time they see me. The volt meter fluctuates from below the 14 mark to the large 16 mark which is a lot on the guage. The dash lights have gotten so bright they overrode the dimmer switch until the voltage fell again. any ideas?? it does have a carquest alternator in it. any ideas would be apprieciated
Have you upgraded the grounds and cleaned the factory ones?
@@AnthonyJ350what do mean when you say upgrade the grounds? Is there a certain upgrade pertaining to this issue?
@@Lost_souls_lose_freedom ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 thank you for the help! I know this is an old thread so I never thought I'd get a reply. so thank you, I really do appreciate it!
@@Lost_souls_lose_freedom Always happy to help 🙂
i got a 2005 tahoe when i first crank it gauge is at 14.8 like normal then it flutuates and slowly goes down to 13 and keeps flauting back and fourth to 13 to like 13.5 and it makes it idle kinda rough just started it idk if its the battery or alanator?
Check out the factory grounds, clean them and dielectric grease them. Also consider upgrading the electrical system by adding thicker grounds ruclips.net/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 it just now started it today
@@brentunderwood7600 Check the battery voltage when the vehicle is off
Anyone know what frequency the PWM signal from the ECU to the alternator is?
Sorry don't know
@@AnthonyJ350 I found out. It`s a 12 volt square wave around 90 to 200 hertz. But lower frequency`s seem to work.
ruclips.net/video/y0A5s5m1_AY/видео.html
I got the service battery charging system alarm I tested the voltage on my battery I was good tested the alternator and found that the alternator was bad so I replaced the alternator and now I'm running about 14.5 volts with my lights off my radio off all electronics off and I can't seem to get the service battery charging system light to go off any suggestions? Oh I have also changed out the fuse that's between the battery and the alternator
It's possible the clamp sensor on the negative terminal is unplugged or faulty.
@@AnthonyJ350 I'll take a look when I stop thank you for the quick reply
How can I get in contact with you I got some questions on a 02 Tahoe. I got 2 8s and a Rockford fosgate t1000bd 0 gauge power wires and grounded straight to the frame. The big 3 has been done all 0 gauge sanded and painted over clean up the factory grounds as well. New AGM battery and new 140amp ac delco alternator. Soon as I turn my bass up the voltage drops so low it kills the truck and has a hard start after. Not only the sound does this but I can kill the truck buy rolling up all windows at the same time any idea ?
What's the voltage of the battery when idling? And what's the voltage of the battery with everything off?
Amps read like 4.2 to 5.6
@@danielaguilera1506 That's with the motor off? What's the voltage at the battery terminal? How did you ground your sound system?
@@AnthonyJ350 13v at battery terminals with motor off. 15v with it on . I just read the fluke t5-600 rounds up or down so it’s not as accurate. My amp is grounded to the Frame of the vehicle with a foot long 0 gauge welding lead wire grounding point is sanded to bear metal ground attached with self tapping screw them paint over to protect it
@@danielaguilera1506 And what's the voltage at the amplifier terminals?
I have a new alternator and battery, with subs, ive been running this set up for about a year, and now the voltmeter drops to slightly below 11, so low it cut off once, it also cut off before I changed my alternator, wondering how to check this RVC to see if it’s bad. Also do I need to have it hooked up?
It’s a 2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3 with a JS alternator 360 amp and yellow top optima battery. Big 3 upgrade as well
You would need to use a multimeter to check it manually or a powerful scan tool. But your operating voltage is too low. The sensor might be faulty.
@@AnthonyJ350 do you believe it’ll be the current sensor? I have a 03 Chevy 4.8 currently running 2 10s with a voice audio system as well but it won’t let me higher it at times because my voltage drops , it happens also more when I’m getting ready to start braking at a light but once I take off the voltage goes up to about 14.0-14.2 I’m on a stock alternator but want to know if maybe could be current sensor before replacing my alternator. Any help would be appreciated!!
@@AnthonyJ350 also if I have the truck In park I can jam the system as loud as it goes but once I put it in reverse or drive my voltage will start to drop .
@@Therealeverr I don't think 2004 has it. Do you have a belt driven or electric fans? Check out my GM Truck Ground video and also upgrade them.
I have a doog battery and altenator but still have to jump my tahoe every morning is it because of this mudule
Sounds like you have a parasitic draw you need to address.
What kind of voltage meter is that, looks like a radar never seen it before.
It's an Escort Passort unit
I installed a new 300a HOA. At first it gives 14.8 from start. After idle for 10 mins, it drops to 13v. If I hit gas pedal, it jumps back up to 14.8v. Any idea why this would happen?
What kind of vehicle?
@@AnthonyJ350 2008 Mercedes-Benz E350
@@1ohmwrecker If you cruise on the highway or leave your lights on, what's the voltage?
@@AnthonyJ350 13v. That's what I'm saying, ya know. Seems when car gets to optimal temp, it gradually drops off to 13v. If I tap the pedal the least bit, jumps to 14.8 and drops instantly back down to 13v again.
@@1ohmwrecker Not sure, it could be normal for your charging system. You would have to ask a Mercedes specialist.
I wonder if you could help me I want to put a smalle 300 W inverter in my 2015 Chevy pickup I need I need 12 V or more for the inverter to work correctly without beeping low voltage I'm only plugging in a 150 watch device Therefore once the battery is fully charged it goes to 11.5 V which is driving me nuts because it works for about 20 minutes and minutes start To beep low voltage on the inverter Is there any way I could keep it at 12.5 votes
Is the inverter hooked up to the battery directly?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes I did have it hooked up direct and same thing happens when the vaulted gets down to 11.58 beeps low voltage
@@robertbernatovich8198 How old is the battery? Where are you grounding it to?
It's only a month old brand new battery
@@robertbernatovich8198 Where and how is the unit grounded?
good I recently put a 370a H/O (cpm controlled)on my 04 crown victoria and when I hit the gas my music cuts out and then my amp comes back on but hit it again and it goes out again.What can I do for this
Can you measure the voltage at the alternator when you do this and tell me what's going on? You might need an external regulator. It's that or the drive belt is loose.
Funny u said that was told to go 1/2 smaller my belt was 95.1 I got a 91.0 and it broke (but I didnt have that problem with it)
What about an under drive pulley with the stock belt? Bigger pulley to take up the slack and with all that output out of the alternator, it shouldn't affect it that much.