I always solder a 10uf cap to the 3.3v rail and 5v rail. Can make a significant difference in BB on the gyro. A 10uf 25v SMD ceramic fits perfectly between the power and ground pads on my Kakute H7 FC and I'm sure other FC's as well.
Thats a tight racing build, single standoff at the back. Interesting. Good video. Little weird electrical noise is interesting. Could it be just this unit?
Hello,will a low ESR electrolytic cap on the 3.3v rail be any help ?
or does it have to be a tantalum cap ?
Why are the Speedybee f405 and f722 on sale? Have they had problems, or just coming out with new stacks/FC's?
Thanks a bunch for all the testing, Mark! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I have one of these and I love it
I mounted it on a 5" mini longrange, the gyro doesn't seem very clean... is there any way to improve the noise?
I always solder a 10uf cap to the 3.3v rail and 5v rail. Can make a significant difference in BB on the gyro. A 10uf 25v SMD ceramic fits perfectly between the power and ground pads on my Kakute H7 FC and I'm sure other FC's as well.
Did you put a nut under the stack screws? I heard it's very important for the FC stack to sit tight and not wiggle
@@chrisbee5481 yes I put them at the bottom of the stack 😉
@@danthemancasey I've never heard of this solution... do you have a link for those capacitors?
yea a cap can help sometimes. Also 48khz instead of 24khz in blheli helped me on some rigs@@ElRouge_FPV.
Thats a tight racing build, single standoff at the back. Interesting. Good video. Little weird electrical noise is interesting. Could it be just this unit?
possible
great
I got a hakrc 35A in a 5.5 inch (creamer), just haven't beat it yet. Gotta put analog back in there.
Good job! On the other side, show us bad signal :) Cheers!
that signal is not perfect. worse is more of a glitch. This one is slight.
I haven't seen anyone mention the fact that TPU isn't RF transparent due to its hygroscopic nature.