This video remains relevant to this day. Was all used to tuning a 3 inch quad, so I was able to push the sliders way off to the right, but then I started tuning on a 7 incher, and noticed that it violently revved on the ground but thankfully no flyaway. Flew fine, but that revving concerned me. Pushed the D filter slider back to 0.95 (think that puts the dynamic filter at 71Hz) and it's nice and chill. Big thanks!
Is there any way to do this on Libreflight? I’m rocking a f1 flight controller and it does the weird twitchy things and it just randomly goes way up in the air when it does the twitch thing. I’m not sure where the setting to change it is in Libreflight.
So on my last build of Superlight 5 V2, I put a BBB 2207 and motors were horrible with osciallation. What I ended up doing was mounted them with silicon softmount I had and also used locktight on motor screws as well and it was literally gone. I typically stick with Emax LS, Brotherhobby, and TMotor on my builds and don't have to deal with stutter and osciallations... but thanks for the tip! I tend to keep my D term low and P low as well.
I just got a new iflight nazgul 5 V2 6S, everything is setup and it arms but none of the motors spin when I throttle.. Just random stutters here and there
My babyhawk 2 HD has been giving me huge twitching issues just upon lift off...been racking my head, going through every little thing to figure it out...Never thought to just test it on the bench like this , lifting the quad, wiggling it around with your hand and just changing filter settings on the fly until the motors sounded smooth while connected to betaflight. Gonna give it a shot!
my problem is when i yaw right at full the drone bumps up but only when yaw right ,,,,,works fine when i yaw left,,,,and half stick right ,,,,,only at full stick right .....whats goinh on please help
Got the same problem on a Matek board with a 4 in 1 ESC in a Talon. It has BB and the data showed D-term oscillations at 50 to 60 Hz. I lowered the loops to 2k/2k and the LP to 50 Hz and it was gone. For a while at least. As it got colder, it came back and I decided to install a new FC. Struggling with these problems is annoying, especially when you have other, cheaper quads, that work just fine.
I have a problem. One of the motor spins even it is not armed and spins when armed only when the throttle is zero. When the throttle is incresed this motor stops. Could you please suggest a solution for this?
Does this still work today? With btfl 4.2.9 everything looks very different and I dont quiet know what exact numbers I should play around with. At least I have the exact same problem u had.
I thought I had the same problem with a drone I just built, but I started noticing sparks coming out of one motor. Ended up getting fixed by removing some metal shards in the motor... Thanks for the video though👍
I have an issue that the veteran drone builders can help me with. I built my own drone, and im using Libre Pilot, CC3D and FLYSKY FS-I6, A2212/6T 2200KV motors and QWinout 30A BEC ESC's, but when I get to step like plug battery in press stop where we try to spin the motors i never hear the next ESC or Motor tones why? I hear the first 3 tones for motor start . Please help this Navy Veteran!
I know this is very late to reply. But I came across this comment after struggling with a yaw twitch. I didn't think it would help because I've tried everything else , but one simply adjustment and OMG !! It's gone. Smooth as butter. I have another doing the same thing so I guess that one's next. Thanks. Funny how you learn more from the comments than the vid. Lol Thx.
Thank you for this video. Is this problem also associated with different voltages as input? I ran into this problem with my nano LR 18650 build. It flew like bobble head on 1S but for grins, I used 2S and the problem disappeared. Was this just accidental luck or is there a relationship for voltage input and how much of the D can be changed as related to input voltage? Thanks again for your clear evaluations.
used to have this problem with an SPracing F3, couldn't solve the issue at the time, (2 years ago). the f4's I've been using since don't seem to do it. ?
I am working with a mini quad with a F3 evo flight controller board, as soon as i arm the quad and give a little throttle , it lifts up and starts yawing CCW , i tried calibrating my flysky iA6B TxRx and changed even the motors and flight controller board but the problem is still there. I need help guys !! p.s. I am still a noobie trying to learn Quadcopter things so maybe this is a small problem but i cant solve this. actually i cant ven figure out what and where exactly the problem is.
I have the wizard ts215 and I'm slowly getting it. Man you should start a course or a workshop cause I would certainly come. You have the knack of teaching or getting ur point across. Anyways keep up the video cause I know theres always something new to learn.
I'm in the middle of my first build. This, more than anything else, makes me nervous. I'm totally comfortable with all the components of the build. But all the firmware stuff is new to me.
I fix that problem simply by changing esc protocol. I was on Dshot and went back to oneshot42. It took 10 mins and my quad was flying like a charm. I think some esc, even if they say they rated for dshot, they might not work properly. Im using racestar 30A on this particular quad.
This is the exact problem I'm having and as a newbie it's overwhelming bruh but I'm determined to get this Armattan Badger in the air. Thanks and please keep us informed.
i had same issues. countless hours watching tuning videos with no luck. but persistance paid off! i understand cleanflight now. if your still having troubles then you need to recalibrate your throttle on flight controller. fixed my problem instantly. no mor twitching no more dropping out of sky. smooth flight.
@@rudevibe This post is old now and a lot has changed. Feel free to message me if you need some help. either thru my email or on facebook @ David Ayers.
As somone else said, still relavant. Was getting this on a skystars am32 esc or using 1000hz elrs. Because ive built the frame and used the fc and vtx before. Not rx or motors. But upgrading betaflight just to use the 1000hz preset seemed to do it. Just a micro desync i can barley see now. Instead of hearing a WEEEEEE to full thrt its like weWEEEE somewhere after the middle or in fast moves. And blackboxed it last night so ill see.
Those are two ESC power wire pad pairs at opposite side of power connector - near S3 and S4 ESC signal pads to be correct. Powering ESC's from them does affect BEC used for gyro chip powering pretty bad. Obviously you can still connect and use ESC signal wires from S3 and S4 pads :)
KrotowX interesting!! Would you by any means know which pads would affect the f405-osd the most as well? Will definitely give it a try. Maybe directly from the battery pad as well, since I rarely use the current sensor
It's helped a lot,but your getting bounce back and Prop wash still, but without a BB your not going to be able to pinpoint the spike causing the issue. A tight notch filter would smash that stutter, but you've got no way of knowing what frequency to set.
Very interesting video. That's pretty awesome that you could just make it stop going crazy like it was. You're a magician. Did you go back to PT 1 and turn gyro Notch one and two off to get that tighter flying quad and less bounce back?
MAKE SURE BETAFLIGHT IS UP TO DATE I just built a quad, basically my third of a certain type but I was running a different set of motors, I flashed my board set everything up just as I always had then when I went to fly it shuttered and twitched like crazy trying to get off the ground, I found there was a newer version of betaflight installed it and flashed my board and reconfigured the same settings and boom it flies beautiful!
thanx bro helped alot . i tired everything you mentioned in the vidoe but nothing worked .i have the racerstar tattoo so i have the bb . noticed as i kept tuning it got better but wasnt perfect .so i noticed a guy in your comments that mentied to change the blheli32 pwm to 32k i had mine set to 48k like all my racerstar tattoo boards so as my last resort i changed the pwn to 32k and bammm !!!cleaned tuned now perfect. so yea first to check is the esc pwn dshot 1200 . thanx bro
Hey there watch this multiple times it's pretty good,but seems like i have different case, i have an riot control F4 with wraith 32 v2 if i leave my battery plug in for few seconds motors would start twitching and if turned on my radio it will twitch much worst so what i did I tried hovering it and quad wasn't sstable , wobbling like crazy it was dipping left and right like 4 esc having desync issue (they're brand new esc)
When ever i plug my battery in, the motors twitch hard with every chime from the esc start up tones. Its my only quad that suffers from this issue, why is that?
At least 4 of my quads do this.. to my knowledge it simply has to do with the strength of the magnets in the motors slightly but mostly it has to do with how the ESC boots up. All escs will put out a small test signal to the motors when it boots but only sometimes are they substantial enough to twitch the motors. I have replaced motors on quads that did it for various reasons and sometimes only a few motors twitch and the rest dont... its mostly a crap shoot but its certainly not harmful. If you set your ESC beeper to function as your buzzer you will see your motors twitch as the ESC chirps.
Andrew Bright Have you checked the transmitter channels if correct. Second make sure you sub trim is centered very easy to overlook and had happened to me before.
Though this post is old, i just noticed this recently from a friends quad...issue was motors spinning in wrong direction and his "reverse motor tab" wasnt ticked correctly...
Dude just ...THANK YOU !!!!!!! :D I had this issue since more than 1 week with my Tyro-79 just a little bit with 3s , but unable to fly with 4s cauz he just turned on hiself (yaw) I put 55 unstead of 100 and it's just perfect Thank you again :)))
I actually had to tighten the screws on my frame and motors. They loosened up even though I used loctite. I guess it wasn't enough. Reapplied generously after that.
It is not a fix. When you have to lower dterm lpf below 100 - something is terribly wrong with your quad. You introduced so much delay and phase shift to PID with these settings so it oscillated badly. The problem is with the hardware itself in your case. Please read about filtering and blackboxing and see for yourself
Drone Mesh, i watched. And you should understand that you cant mess with filters without it, since there is no info about whats happening with a quad in flight
when i punch my throttle sometimes it sticks! and shoots up! ever heard of this? and its not my transmitter! because i set another model and that one fly's fine..
I had the same issue. I fixed it with changing the motor screws. One or two screws may have been touching the coil. I also completely flashed a new firmware. Racerstar f4s tattoo version came with an outdated FW and I switched to Lux f4 and Bam. Problem solved. I'm not sure witch one fixed the issue but it if flying great now.
I had also a yaw twitch (don't know if it is the same ) but i had my p to high I guess because when I dropped it a bid it went away. But nice that you're debugging again 👍🏻
In my honest opinion you were getting mad P term osciliation because you put the gyro lowpassfilter down to 50 Hz which introduces mad mad latency and the pid loop can't compensate for the phase delay (time shift latency). Change that back to gyro LPF back to 100Hz and Dterm LPF to 90Hz either turn off the dynamic notch and leave the gyro notches or turn off the gyro notches and use the dynamic notch and give that a try hopefully that should fix that up.
Plus those motor wires are a nightmare: they will Tammy vibrations straight to your FC, also with delay the PID cannot compensate for. I've fixed a couple of courts that had yaw twitch, simply by rebuilding they neatly and making sure that nothing connected to the FC would vibrate and flop around.
So with the D term up and the Gyro up I get a lot of motor heat that i didn't get previously so that doesn't really make the issue better. There is P term oscillation but the motors are cooler and you can give the kwad enough D to where it doesn't fly sloppy. The Gyro and D term filter that high it may respond better but the D has to be cut so much the kwad does not produce good results
My recommendation with the latest betaflight is soft mount the flight controller and motors, turn on dynamic filtering and antigravity set to 3, in the filter section set to PT1 and turn off all notch filters. Obviously check your motors aren't getting too hot especially with the last filter turned off but unless you have really bad motors you should be fine and a bit of fine tuning of the PIDs will get rid of nearly all the propwash oscillations etc.
If you have motor twitching like that don't bum yourself with crazy dterm overfiltering rebuild the drone with more capacitance and a better softmounting or none at all if using a fc esc board like this.
This video points in the right direction, but isn't really correct. I couldn't get rid of the twitches on a new build with PID tweaks, so restored defaults then applied the settings here github.com/betaflight/betaflight/wiki/4.0-Tuning-Notes . That did it.
If you want the easiest way to get rid of oscillations Install Butterflight, enable airmode, antigravity and dynamic filters, then set the filter type to PT1 and disable all notch filters. Then go to the CLI and enable the fast Kalman stage2 gyro filter using the instructions on their website. Check out the latest video on my channel running an old f3 on Butterflight with the fast Kalman, no oscillations or bounce back on stock PIDs amazing. I've since learned its best to increase q=800 when running 8K/4K and with some minor PID tuning it's flying even better now.
Drone Mesh Definatly try it out mate, the configurator is almost the same as betaflight so it's super easy too. My video is just some DVR footage but you can see flying straight back into my own propwash isn't even a problem, last time I flew a quad that handled it this well was raceflight but I prefer a lot of the features in betaflight/Butterflight like the OSD.
Not sure if that'll help in this case. Dynamic filters don't seem to deal with harsh mechanical vibration that makes the D-gains go off the planet like what's happening here. Last time I had a quad do this it was a really harsh gyro spike in the 70-80hz range that I just squashed with a tight notch filter. Who knows though right? With all the magic these filters do it can't hurt to try it out. :P
Ahh, great timing! Thanks for this video, I think this might be why my Kingkong 90GT is flying terrible when I punch the throttle like it was flying with damaged props, even when I put new props on. Will definitely give it a go. BTW I got my Featherlite Custom 5 inch build completed and in the air ruclips.net/video/8z63gN9_wbE/видео.html
easier way is to hook up to betaflight and test each motor one at a time at different throttles and find out which one or two is causing the vibration issue and replace those esc's.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
This video remains relevant to this day. Was all used to tuning a 3 inch quad, so I was able to push the sliders way off to the right, but then I started tuning on a 7 incher, and noticed that it violently revved on the ground but thankfully no flyaway. Flew fine, but that revving concerned me. Pushed the D filter slider back to 0.95 (think that puts the dynamic filter at 71Hz) and it's nice and chill. Big thanks!
im such a noob. i still dont get how pids work!
Watching this mid way through 2021 and seeing how much the hobby has advanced in 3 years
Is there any way to do this on Libreflight? I’m rocking a f1 flight controller and it does the weird twitchy things and it just randomly goes way up in the air when it does the twitch thing. I’m not sure where the setting to change it is in Libreflight.
So on my last build of Superlight 5 V2, I put a BBB 2207 and motors were horrible with osciallation. What I ended up doing was mounted them with silicon softmount I had and also used locktight on motor screws as well and it was literally gone. I typically stick with Emax LS, Brotherhobby, and TMotor on my builds and don't have to deal with stutter and osciallations... but thanks for the tip! I tend to keep my D term low and P low as well.
I just got a new iflight nazgul 5 V2 6S, everything is setup and it arms but none of the motors spin when I throttle.. Just random stutters here and there
My babyhawk 2 HD has been giving me huge twitching issues just upon lift off...been racking my head, going through every little thing to figure it out...Never thought to just test it on the bench like this , lifting the quad, wiggling it around with your hand and just changing filter settings on the fly until the motors sounded smooth while connected to betaflight. Gonna give it a shot!
my problem is when i yaw right at full the drone bumps up but only when yaw right ,,,,,works fine when i yaw left,,,,and half stick right ,,,,,only at full stick right .....whats goinh on please help
Got the same problem on a Matek board with a 4 in 1 ESC in a Talon. It has BB and the data showed D-term oscillations at 50 to 60 Hz. I lowered the loops to 2k/2k and the LP to 50 Hz and it was gone. For a while at least.
As it got colder, it came back and I decided to install a new FC.
Struggling with these problems is annoying, especially when you have other, cheaper quads, that work just fine.
I have a problem. One of the motor spins even it is not armed and spins when armed only when the throttle is zero. When the throttle is incresed this motor stops. Could you please suggest a solution for this?
Does this still work today? With btfl 4.2.9 everything looks very different and I dont quiet know what exact numbers I should play around with. At least I have the exact same problem u had.
What was the ecs connection,, was it ter123456
I thought I had the same problem with a drone I just built, but I started noticing sparks coming out of one motor. Ended up getting fixed by removing some metal shards in the motor... Thanks for the video though👍
I have an issue that the veteran drone builders can help me with. I built my own drone, and im using Libre Pilot, CC3D and FLYSKY FS-I6, A2212/6T 2200KV motors and QWinout 30A BEC ESC's, but when I get to step like plug battery in press stop where we try to spin the motors i never hear the next ESC or Motor tones why? I hear the first 3 tones for motor start . Please help this Navy Veteran!
I had to change the pwm frequency to 32k on my blheli 32 escs to fix it
thanx bro you helped me alot by posting this 1 little comment lol i tried everything but this last and worked great !! ty bro
I know this is very late to reply. But I came across this comment after struggling with a yaw twitch. I didn't think it would help because I've tried everything else , but one simply adjustment and OMG !! It's gone. Smooth as butter. I have another doing the same thing so I guess that one's next. Thanks. Funny how you learn more from the comments than the vid. Lol
Thx.
I know this comment is two years old, but thank god I found it! Just this simple setting and the Problem ist solved! Thank you Sir!
Come back, we need you, where are you at? We are on Betaflight 4.4.2 now.
hey man my quad idels fine when u arm the then u thorrotle up a bit and it yaws left super hard any tips man i am stuck please help
Thank you for this video. Is this problem also associated with different voltages as input? I ran into this problem with my nano LR 18650 build. It flew like bobble head on 1S but for grins, I used 2S and the problem disappeared. Was this just accidental luck or is there a relationship for voltage input and how much of the D can be changed as related to input voltage? Thanks again for your clear evaluations.
Dude ! My twitch is gone thanks for your PID`s , thanks mate !!!!
used to have this problem with an SPracing F3, couldn't solve the issue at the time, (2 years ago). the f4's I've been using since don't seem to do it. ?
I am working with a mini quad with a F3 evo flight controller board, as soon as i arm the quad and give a little throttle , it lifts up and starts yawing CCW , i tried calibrating my flysky iA6B TxRx and changed even the motors and flight controller board but the problem is still there. I need help guys !!
p.s. I am still a noobie trying to learn Quadcopter things so maybe this is a small problem but i cant solve this. actually i cant ven figure out what and where exactly the problem is.
I have the wizard ts215 and I'm slowly getting it. Man you should start a course or a workshop cause I would certainly come. You have the knack of teaching or getting ur point across. Anyways keep up the video cause I know theres always something new to learn.
I'm in the middle of my first build. This, more than anything else, makes me nervous. I'm totally comfortable with all the components of the build. But all the firmware stuff is new to me.
Would flashing firmware possibly help the problem
Really looking forward to your blackbox analysis!
I fix that problem simply by changing esc protocol. I was on Dshot and went back to oneshot42. It took 10 mins and my quad was flying like a charm. I think some esc, even if they say they rated for dshot, they might not work properly. Im using racestar 30A on this particular quad.
Francis Alerte some older flight contrlers as well don't like to run d-shot even if they say they do...
This is the exact problem I'm having and as a newbie it's overwhelming bruh but I'm determined to get this Armattan Badger in the air.
Thanks and please keep us informed.
i had same issues. countless hours watching tuning videos with no luck. but persistance paid off! i understand cleanflight now. if your still having troubles then you need to recalibrate your throttle on flight controller. fixed my problem instantly. no mor twitching no more dropping out of sky. smooth flight.
@@ChainsawFPV hi! what u mean recalibrate throttle on fc?
@@rudevibe This post is old now and a lot has changed. Feel free to message me if you need some help. either thru my email or on facebook @ David Ayers.
As somone else said, still relavant. Was getting this on a skystars am32 esc or using 1000hz elrs. Because ive built the frame and used the fc and vtx before. Not rx or motors. But upgrading betaflight just to use the 1000hz preset seemed to do it. Just a micro desync i can barley see now. Instead of hearing a WEEEEEE to full thrt its like weWEEEE somewhere after the middle or in fast moves. And blackboxed it last night so ill see.
Did you continue work on the matek f405 issue? And agreed, without blacbox, this is a hell of a struggle
If you are talking about first F405-AIO then don't use forward side ESC pads - it will solve yaw twitching issue in great degree.
KrotowX For me, it's about the f405-osd, but maybe solutions are similar. What do you mean by forward facing? Don't you have to use them all?
Those are two ESC power wire pad pairs at opposite side of power connector - near S3 and S4 ESC signal pads to be correct. Powering ESC's from them does affect BEC used for gyro chip powering pretty bad. Obviously you can still connect and use ESC signal wires from S3 and S4 pads :)
KrotowX interesting!! Would you by any means know which pads would affect the f405-osd the most as well? Will definitely give it a try. Maybe directly from the battery pad as well, since I rarely use the current sensor
It's helped a lot,but your getting bounce back and Prop wash still, but without a BB your not going to be able to pinpoint the spike causing the issue. A tight notch filter would smash that stutter, but you've got no way of knowing what frequency to set.
Very interesting video. That's pretty awesome that you could just make it stop going crazy like it was. You're a magician. Did you go back to PT 1 and turn gyro Notch one and two off to get that tighter flying quad and less bounce back?
MAKE SURE BETAFLIGHT IS UP TO DATE I just built a quad, basically my third of a certain type but I was running a different set of motors, I flashed my board set everything up just as I always had then when I went to fly it shuttered and twitched like crazy trying to get off the ground, I found there was a newer version of betaflight installed it and flashed my board and reconfigured the same settings and boom it flies beautiful!
When i run pt1 i always turn off all those notch filters and my quads fly great is there that much of a difference between f3 and f4
Could you remake this video with Betaflight 4.4?
Don't know what happened to him..., He was one of my favorites to watch.
Mesh can u plz tell me why my quad rolls faster than it pitches.. the rates are the same but it's like the rolls are 2x as fast
Great Tip! What happens if you disable the D Term Filtering? Does that help, or your motors cannot handle it?
If you do that the motors flip out and get blazing hot in just a few seconds. D-term filters are the most important filters on your quad.
What frame is that?
which setting do I need to change in BF4.1.4, is it "D Term Lowpass 1 Dynamic Min Cutoff Freqency [Hz]?
Don't pay attention to this video AT ALL... This guy is usually spot on and knows his stuff, but this video is just like WOW.
thanx bro helped alot . i tired everything you mentioned in the vidoe but nothing worked .i have the racerstar tattoo so i have the bb . noticed as i kept tuning it got better but wasnt perfect .so i noticed a guy in your comments that mentied to change the blheli32 pwm to 32k i had mine set to 48k like all my racerstar tattoo boards so as my last resort i changed the pwn to 32k and bammm !!!cleaned tuned now perfect. so yea first to check is the esc pwn dshot 1200 . thanx bro
betaflight 3.3.1 i see, have you found this issue has gotten better in later versions of betaflight?
I had a wobleling quad without props and I changed from DShoot 600 to DShoot300. Maybe you should try !
Hey there watch this multiple times it's pretty good,but seems like i have different case, i have an riot control F4 with wraith 32 v2 if i leave my battery plug in for few seconds motors would start twitching and if turned on my radio it will twitch much worst so what i did I tried hovering it and quad wasn't sstable , wobbling like crazy it was dipping left and right like 4 esc having desync issue (they're brand new esc)
Great video....BTW are you ever going to build out the F2Mito frame?
When ever i plug my battery in, the motors twitch hard with every chime from the esc start up tones. Its my only quad that suffers from this issue, why is that?
At least 4 of my quads do this.. to my knowledge it simply has to do with the strength of the magnets in the motors slightly but mostly it has to do with how the ESC boots up. All escs will put out a small test signal to the motors when it boots but only sometimes are they substantial enough to twitch the motors. I have replaced motors on quads that did it for various reasons and sometimes only a few motors twitch and the rest dont... its mostly a crap shoot but its certainly not harmful. If you set your ESC beeper to function as your buzzer you will see your motors twitch as the ESC chirps.
How do you fix a yaw spin when I arm the quad it just starts to yaw spin it does lift off but spins like crazy ??
Andrew Bright Have you checked the transmitter channels if correct. Second make sure you sub trim is centered very easy to overlook and had happened to me before.
👀
Though this post is old, i just noticed this recently from a friends quad...issue was motors spinning in wrong direction and his "reverse motor tab" wasnt ticked correctly...
Nice lil ad at the end. Were the front standoffs in view while flying the real4? And is the eachine smartaudio still working?
No the standoff where not in view. And never tested the smart audio on the eachine.
Sweet i was hoping they where not in view and fosho smartaudio is not that important to me
Dude just ...THANK YOU !!!!!!! :D
I had this issue since more than 1 week with my Tyro-79
just a little bit with 3s , but unable to fly with 4s cauz he just turned on hiself (yaw)
I put 55 unstead of 100 and it's just perfect Thank you again :)))
Had the issue with the same quad, fixed it when i realized i was running pids on 2 khz instead of 8.
OK I have yaw problem in tyro79 (very nervous) ... can I solve by going down to 55 + / -... ??? Thank you
Hi, Hi had the same issue with my quad. But i fixed it with switching from Dshot600 to (i think) oneshot. So for me it was a communication issue.
I actually had to tighten the screws on my frame and motors. They loosened up even though I used loctite. I guess it wasn't enough. Reapplied generously after that.
It is not a fix. When you have to lower dterm lpf below 100 - something is terribly wrong with your quad. You introduced so much delay and phase shift to PID with these settings so it oscillated badly. The problem is with the hardware itself in your case. Please read about filtering and blackboxing and see for yourself
I don't know if you watched the vid there is no Black box log on this quad only way is to go blindly.
Drone Mesh, i watched. And you should understand that you cant mess with filters without it, since there is no info about whats happening with a quad in flight
MrBirdshell666 exactly... There is a way to have bb with an external bb logger
when i punch my throttle sometimes it sticks! and shoots up! ever heard of this? and its not my transmitter! because i set another model and that one fly's fine..
What receiver are you using?
its for the Evolution FS-A8S by Turnigy my main receivers are Spectrum and never have this problem! sounds like thats the issue right?
I had the same issue. I fixed it with changing the motor screws. One or two screws may have been touching the coil.
I also completely flashed a new firmware. Racerstar f4s tattoo version came with an outdated FW and I switched to Lux f4 and Bam.
Problem solved.
I'm not sure witch one fixed the issue but it if flying great now.
I had also a yaw twitch (don't know if it is the same ) but i had my p to high I guess because when I dropped it a bid it went away. But nice that you're debugging again 👍🏻
When you say P, do you mean P Gains?.
I know this is an old vid. But thanks it fixed my twitchy Baby ape. Cheers
Last run sounds a bit over tuned...that trilling sound = high I- gain??..
In my honest opinion you were getting mad P term osciliation because you put the gyro lowpassfilter down to 50 Hz which introduces mad mad latency and the pid loop can't compensate for the phase delay (time shift latency). Change that back to gyro LPF back to 100Hz and Dterm LPF to 90Hz either turn off the dynamic notch and leave the gyro notches or turn off the gyro notches and use the dynamic notch and give that a try hopefully that should fix that up.
Will do still trying to replicate it with a FC that has Black box.
Plus those motor wires are a nightmare: they will Tammy vibrations straight to your FC, also with delay the PID cannot compensate for. I've fixed a couple of courts that had yaw twitch, simply by rebuilding they neatly and making sure that nothing connected to the FC would vibrate and flop around.
So with the D term up and the Gyro up I get a lot of motor heat that i didn't get previously so that doesn't really make the issue better. There is P term oscillation but the motors are cooler and you can give the kwad enough D to where it doesn't fly sloppy. The Gyro and D term filter that high it may respond better but the D has to be cut so much the kwad does not produce good results
cool tips. i’m getting u nailed the issue
GREAT POST!!!
im shure this is going to help a lot of people in this hobby!!!!
GREAT CHANNEL!!
👍👍👍
And really nice flying
Big tip: If this didn't fix it check your gyro in blackbox... mine was screwed up
Go Butterflight. No filter issue. Just do the PIDs and you are fine.
my f3 asguard did the same thing today with betaflight 3.3 I thought my fc was bad.
Nice input and flying
I needed this Video today
good video quality under water,
My recommendation with the latest betaflight is soft mount the flight controller and motors, turn on dynamic filtering and antigravity set to 3, in the filter section set to PT1 and turn off all notch filters. Obviously check your motors aren't getting too hot especially with the last filter turned off but unless you have really bad motors you should be fine and a bit of fine tuning of the PIDs will get rid of nearly all the propwash oscillations etc.
Really great tip, man! Thanks a lot!
Thank you very much. This helped!
i had a very similar issue on matek f722
Same here. It went way with Betaflight 4.0 though
Are you in the uk? Looks like UK and Uk numberplate on the 206. You sound American.
"This is me from the future.." lol
Well then, , Thanks in advance. {;-)
Garry Kennedy 03:01
Yes,,, I was just playing along.
So if he gets allot of money we know he went to the future to get lotto numbers and i will give him a visit 😆
Bennie Leip lol
If you have motor twitching like that don't bum yourself with crazy dterm overfiltering rebuild the drone with more capacitance and a better softmounting or none at all if using a fc esc board like this.
Excellent! I've had this issue before on a previous kwad. Thanks for the fix.
Today on Drone Mesh, we drop the D!
This video points in the right direction, but isn't really correct. I couldn't get rid of the twitches on a new build with PID tweaks, so restored defaults then applied the settings here github.com/betaflight/betaflight/wiki/4.0-Tuning-Notes . That did it.
You said 98% this will help people lol you described it as 97% huge difference
THANK's for the info, GREAT FLYING
This is not a normal behaviour of a healthy FC... I think this is just a hasty patch..
Thanks Dude !
In my opinion this is wrong way to counter that issue, after that the quad is horrible to fly. Like we see in the video.
You should watch and listen to the whole thing before you comment.
I just fixed mine with softmount fc, matekf405
I coulda told you that your quad was gonna wobble like that setting your LPF to 5 xD WAYY too much filtering.
Facepalm
If you want the easiest way to get rid of oscillations Install Butterflight, enable airmode, antigravity and dynamic filters, then set the filter type to PT1 and disable all notch filters. Then go to the CLI and enable the fast Kalman stage2 gyro filter using the instructions on their website. Check out the latest video on my channel running an old f3 on Butterflight with the fast Kalman, no oscillations or bounce back on stock PIDs amazing. I've since learned its best to increase q=800 when running 8K/4K and with some minor PID tuning it's flying even better now.
MUNKY FPV Interesting will give a go
Drone Mesh Definatly try it out mate, the configurator is almost the same as betaflight so it's super easy too. My video is just some DVR footage but you can see flying straight back into my own propwash isn't even a problem, last time I flew a quad that handled it this well was raceflight but I prefer a lot of the features in betaflight/Butterflight like the OSD.
I can't believe anyone is still on BIQUAD
Not sure if that'll help in this case. Dynamic filters don't seem to deal with harsh mechanical vibration that makes the D-gains go off the planet like what's happening here. Last time I had a quad do this it was a really harsh gyro spike in the 70-80hz range that I just squashed with a tight notch filter. Who knows though right? With all the magic these filters do it can't hurt to try it out. :P
Great job thanks👍😍
.. “or kill someone” lmfao 🤣
MLCC capacitor
whats your 'D' ?????
Awesome !!!
Ahh, great timing! Thanks for this video, I think this might be why my Kingkong 90GT is flying terrible when I punch the throttle like it was flying with damaged props, even when I put new props on. Will definitely give it a go.
BTW I got my Featherlite Custom 5 inch build completed and in the air ruclips.net/video/8z63gN9_wbE/видео.html
For something so simple I’m well confused….
thx you very much my fwend
easier way is to hook up to betaflight and test each motor one at a time at different throttles and find out which one or two is causing the vibration issue and replace those esc's.
Great tips, thanks
Interesting
Just get no cheap parts. Done.
Can anyone understand a damn thing this guy is saying? Too much jargon