I just bought an inexpensive 3 jaw puller set just to remove the cv, although Im sure it will come in handy for other things. VERY much worth the $30. It took about 2 minutes (along with a ball peen to shock the cv) on my 20 year old rust belt driveshaft. I can't imagine how long it would take without it. Thanks for the suggestion and all the useful info!
Great video. I have a 1999 WJ 4.7 with a 4” lift. The driveshaft has 2 CV’s. I picked up a double Cordon from a salvage lot. Just have to find the yokes for the axle and transfer case. Then new U-joints. Thanks for sharing and the links.
Nice vid! Maybe you could discuss the NV242 (Selec-Trac) swap for the Quadra Trac when it comes to drivelines. My NV242HD requires a 2 inch shorter driveline (29" vs 31") for my 2000 V8 Grand that the Jeep dealers' parts dept has no clue about. Vary rare in option in 2000 if you're familiar. Thanks much for the great vids!
Such a great video! Helped give me a much better understanding of my WJ drive shaft. Need to rebuild my front cv style shaft. Considering the 4 inch suspension lift..... This video gives me the confidence to try the double cardan swap/install. Thank you!
Great video, I need to do my front DC driveshaft on my wj. Of course its not as spacious underneath like my tj, but it'll get done. Another awesome job!
You're supposed to press the cups in until they just clear the clip grove. If you go too far in you end up with the ends of the center section binding on its end with the cup. The solution to fix that is to use a drift and tap on the center section to push the cup back out a tad to free up the bind. If you don't fix this the cup will make metal and the joint will fail early and even vibrate.
I don't know if you do this or not, but after you bend and secure the stainless bands. I take a sharp center punch and place it directly over the sleeve it slides through and drive a holding punch mark through all the layers and at the end you cut as an additional security measure. I feel (please tell me if you think i am wrong) that by doing so it gives the layers a place to hold each other together nicely and avoid the edge from snagging and pulling it out of the ears. As i had a walmart bag snag on the end going down the freeway and the plastic bag managed to straighten the band out and it slid apart at 70mph.
I can see that as helpful for sure. I tapped mine down a bit to kind of crimp it, so yeah, I think you are right any extra security there would be good
WOW. Awesome video, you are subbed sir! I have an identical 2004 WJ 4.7 NV247 with 107Kmi that I just purchased. It has no weird noises, but it does have a serious driveline vibe noticeable from 40+ mph. I removed the front driveshaft (double cardan) and about 90% of the vibration was gone - so I took the front driveshaft to a reputable drive shaft rebuilder. After doing a quick hand exercising of the joints and pulling the open caps, he said it was fine. I had him balance it anyway. When I picked it up he said it was an ounce off and I saw where he removed the old weights and tacked on new ones. After installation, the vibration is worse...LOL. Are there any other components to check for the source of the vibration - or should I just go ahead and rebuild the front driveshaft? Thanks for reading this, I sincerely appreciate your response. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!! - Mike update: I took the front driveshaft out again tonight and road tested it. It is smooth as silk again...no vibes that I can tell. I checked all the front control arm bushings, motor mounts and trans mount with a prybar, they seem fine. truck is 100% stock highway queen (if that helps)
very good video thank you i replaced everything here is the list front cv or axle shafts both both front hubs rotors brakes pads and calipers all for upper and lower ball joints diff fluid and the gears looked great the transfer case fluid it was black and like water the steering drag link and the other linkages so the only thing i did not replace on the front it the drive shaft i will do this next sunday thank yo for this video it is exactly what the noise sound like not he 2004 grand cherokee 4.0 and it only make noise in 4x4 that is it nothing else do you think this could be the problem ?
it would be cool if you did a NP 242 rebuild and cable adjustment. I put mine in four wheel drive once and it was very difficult to switch gear positions and now in two wheel drive sitting at a traffic light the part-time light will come on and go off during take off.
i think it is a telescoping section so the driveshaft can stretch in length slightly when the axle lowers down from the normal ride height it is greased and booted already and appears he has already done it not to long ago.
What part number is the slinger and Y yoke? I've been looking to rebuild my double Cardin drive shaft for my 2001 Grand Cherokee and I can't find those two pieces.
Very good video, I'm going to replace my WJ 2002 cv driveshaft too. But have on idea for spec of 3 jaw baring remover which its suitable for this job and others common work on my WJ. Could you pls. advice for this tool.?
Great and informative video. Thanks for taking the time to share and help others. Question for you: I have a 99 Grand Cherokee with a CV-CV front driveshaft that I'm rebuilding now (on the floor behind me as I type). I prefer to convert both yokes to u-joint style and change the driveshaft to u-joints as well; however, even though double-cardan is preferred - couldn't I run a driveshaft with single u-joints on both ends? I'm not engineering genius, but it would seem that a double-cardan front driveshaft with adapters needed to mate up to the CV style yokes would vibrate more than if that same double-cardan driveshaft instead bolted to u-joint style yokes which tucks the spinning mass/knuckles closer to solid housings. With true ujoint yokes, any ujoint (double cardan included) could therefore bolt directly to the yokes as close to the transfer case and axles as possible. The spinning mass of the driveshaft would then be closer. As stated above, my interest is to run a single ujoint at both ends of my front driveshaft if it's possible. My rear driveshaft is like this; it's not a double-cardan. Suspension Config: +2 inch springs 1-inch transfer case drop and a 1-inch spacer at the rear control arm; both to reduce driveshaft angle by one inch. Running a 2.5 inch life now; the driveshaft should only be seeing a 1.5 inch lift due to this. CV yoke at the Dana 30 axle, and CV yoke at the transfer case ** In the past I've ran a Tom Woods double-cardan driveshaft but the WJ was plagued with vibration over 60 MPH so the driveshaft was pulled off and let sit in a garage. I'm wanting to avoid vibration. The yokes and assembly have been checked and are good; this is driveshaft problem.
JT I feel like you'd want to convert the yokes to a ujoint yoke on diff and tc ends. the single cardan/double cardan offers more flex movement for smoothness on angles than a single/single would. and. you'd want the yokes to match the design with no adapters to limit variables that may impact vibration
You all probably dont care but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Justin Major i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
Quick question, I have an 01 Wj Double Cardon. I have a 2 1/2 in lift currently no issues/vibrations/tested well on trails. From what ive gathered, for my 6 1/2 in lift from iron rock auto, I can keep my driveshaft and it will be fine. What is your opinion? A response would be greatly appricated... Thanks!!
Ajay Preach I think so with the double cardan. Im wondering if the iro lift has a transfer case drop in it to help ds angle? Either way prob not a bad idea to call them to verify but I would think your in better shape already having the double cardan unit
Awesome video, thanks! Is there an easy way to know what length driveshaft you need? For example, some people say you can not run a WJ 4.7L driveshaft on more than 2.5" lift. I understand that its shorter, but what is the way to measure the needed minimum length. Thanks!
What is the part number for the ball and spring assembly(double cardan) , i only found a replacement ball and spring not the entire assembly that you used here.
Hi I have a 2002 wj and about to fit a double double cardon with a 6.5 inch iro lift. I currently have the repezza to repezza front shaft. I'm aware I need to change the yolks but as you mentioned it's not as easy as a straight swap on the front diff side. Do you have any suggestions as to how to do this or am I best to take it to a diff specialist. Many thanks in advance.
Don't ever rebuild a Rzeppa joint. For the same price or less you can get a DC shaft from a junk yard. Having your Rzeppa joint fail is a gift from gob because now you have an excuse to upgrade. Also, any DC shaft from a ZJ will work on any WJ with a lift up to 3 inches. after 3 inches you will have to get a longer shaft or do a TC drop (tho you should be dropping your TC anyway after 3")
Hay i have a 02 ford ranger with a lift with a dubbul cardun im getting vibration at 45 mph you think its the U joints it's on the front when I take the driveshaft off all vibrations go away thanks by the way it's a super lift
I have a 4.0L with 242 front prop shaft is double cv joint. I have all the bolts out but cant seem to get the drive shaft out. Is there a trick or just a bfh or what?
I took a 3/16 punch and came through one of the holes on the backside (not the screw holes) two strikes opened enough gap to use a flathead to pry it off.... hope this helps someone else
I have a 2003 WJ with the 4.0L engine with selectable 2W, All Wheel, and 4WD, 197k miles. I have a clunk and a significant lurch when shifting from park to drive, park to reverse, and reverse to drive. After inspecting both driveshafts, I can rotate both back and forth by hand a bit (about 15 or 20 degrees) when the vehicle is in park and almost replicate the clunk. Should the driveshafts have any play like this? Should I be concerned with the safety of the vehicle with this movement? I figure replacing the U joints and rebuilding the CV joint would be a good start anyways, but I am worried about other problems or damaged components I might run into that the old U joints may have caused. What should I look for during the driveshaft removal so I can prepare to fix this issue properly?
Hi, thanks for the vids, they're very informative! Question: What ball joint removal kit are you using? I need to rebuild my double cardan, and am in the market for one. Thanks!
I need to know if the ds from the v8 with the dc joint will fit in my i6 they are both 2002. I also need to know if the yolk from the v8 with the dc joint will fit my 242.
They front drive shaft from the V8 should work., as long as your Jeep has the proper yokes. If your Jeep has the repezza yokes, you will need to switch yokes. I believe the lengths of the FRONT dc driveshafts are the same for both i6 and V8's. The transfer case yoke should work for the 242. If you end up having to switch your front transfer case yoke, might as well throw a new seal in there too while the yoke is off. I
Hey so im guna put a new(junkyard) rezeppa on my front. Are you saying i need New yoke for my np242 ? I cant just bolt everything on like how the old one came off?
+Vortex Garage Thanks! I looked at that, but it just seemed too cheap to be any good. But I also didnt want to shell out $120 for a Crown if it's only temporary until my lift. I think I will give this one a shot.
+Kelli Loveland The cv itself felt tight with no binding and looked like good quality - I was happy with it. I did a KJ Liberty with a Dorman kit and wasn't impressed plus the Dorman kit was twice as much. The person who has the WJ we did the me807 kit on has a few thousand miles on it so far and no issues yet.
+Vortex Garage Just got my kit today and it only has one gasket. Which is also pictured on the website. Hopefully that means the new kit only needs the one gasket up front! I guess I will find out...
Question i have a V6 WJ 2001. not sure of the Gear Ratio yet.. but anyways i'm buying a 2 Inch lift kit from Rough Country will this Damage my Driveshaft at all? Thanks!
+Vortex Garage I have a '99 WJ Limited 4.7L with 183k and after putting new OME "2" inch springs the pinion side joint started humming badly. Removed the driveshaft and the humming went away. Will the new Rzeppa's last at all or should I just go ahead and convert to DC/U-joint?
+Vim Njicki Not entirely sure, to be honest. I have heard with 2" of lift the rzeppa is usable but wont last as long. Just don't know how long without checking some forums out...
+Vim Njicki I had a 2" on my WJ and it ate through the rezeppa bearings... I went through 2 rezeppa bearings in about a 14 month period. The double-cardan driveshaft would be the best way to go if you intent to keep the 2" lift or install a bigger lift.
The gear ratio should be stamped on a metal tag on the differential cover, along with the recommend gear oil. One on the front diff cover and one on the rear diff cover... These goes missing very frequently. But if/when you do the next gear oil change, the gear ratio should be physically stamped somewhere on the carrier of each diff. If you need more help, check out wjjeeps.com, they will most definitely have it there!
Buon giorno Complimenti per il video vorrei sapere come si chiama o se a un codice l,estrattore che usa per sfilare le crocette perché non l ho trovo per acquistarlo grazie
I have WJ I6 w selectrac 242, w repezza joint only at TC, the video is great but missing one thing. Can any one verify if the stock yoke from v8 WJ w DC and NP247 quadrajunk, does it have same spline and length to b a direct bolt up on the NP 242 selectrac TC since I need to change that to get the DC,.also does the zj V8 DC shaft the one to get bc it has longer slip yoke,or is the wj v8 DC a dirct bolt up if that yoke at the TC fits, and u have u joint at pinion. I'm trying to use all factory parts not trying to order a yoke from DS shop. Any response would b much appreciated.
Gabe Mundo same spline count. I just swapped a242wj TC into my wj with the 247TC. The 242wj had a rzeppa front DS, and my 247 came from the factory with the DC DS. Swapped right over.
Hi - the WJ Jeep uses a 1310 style ujoint in the rear. very common size. I would ask your parts depot for a 1310 style ujoint. I think the Spicer brand ones I used are part # 5135x, and ones from moog are part number 269. going off memory here :) Also check out the video on doing Mountaineer Ujoints. They are very much the same process, but the wj has differenr yokes, a slip yoke that pulls out of the transfer case and a cardan style yoke on the differetia like both front shafts in this video you are commenting on. hope this helps! If not checkout jeepforum.com
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Thanks for the detailed information. The best I've seen so far
I just bought an inexpensive 3 jaw puller set just to remove the cv, although Im sure it will come in handy for other things.
VERY much worth the $30. It took about 2 minutes (along with a ball peen to shock the cv) on my 20 year old rust belt driveshaft. I can't imagine how long it would take without it.
Thanks for the suggestion and all the useful info!
Great video. I have a 1999 WJ 4.7 with a 4” lift. The driveshaft has 2 CV’s. I picked up a double Cordon from a salvage lot. Just have to find the yokes for the axle and transfer case. Then new U-joints. Thanks for sharing and the links.
great video, the best I've seen so far on this subject
Wow this is just the video I needed! My front rezeppa joint finally gave up the ghost haha. Awesome job with the WJ series keep it up! :)
Nice vid! Maybe you could discuss the NV242 (Selec-Trac) swap for the Quadra Trac when it comes to drivelines. My NV242HD requires a 2 inch shorter driveline (29" vs 31") for my 2000 V8 Grand that the Jeep dealers' parts dept has no clue about. Vary rare in option in 2000 if you're familiar. Thanks much for the great vids!
Excellent video, thank you!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed and found it helpful!
Such a great video! Helped give me a much better understanding of my WJ drive shaft. Need to rebuild my front cv style shaft. Considering the 4 inch suspension lift..... This video gives me the confidence to try the double cardan swap/install.
Thank you!
Great video, I need to do my front DC driveshaft on my wj. Of course its not as spacious underneath like my tj, but it'll get done. Another awesome job!
Thanks! I recently helped do a front ds on a KJ Liberty and the clearance on the TC side is quite tight, made the WJ clearance seem awesome ;)
Thanks for the excellent video!!!
I’ve had to replace the cv twice inside one year because of those boots. Definitely going to upgrade to the double cardan
This is gold!
The cv bolts to the axel joint, the other end is a Carden joint..but mine is a 97
My 97 ZJ has a double cardan at the tcase and a Rzeppa at the front drive shaft.
By golly I just learned something. Thanks for the video
You're supposed to press the cups in until they just clear the clip grove. If you go too far in you end up with the ends of the center section binding on its end with the cup. The solution to fix that is to use a drift and tap on the center section to push the cup back out a tad to free up the bind. If you don't fix this the cup will make metal and the joint will fail early and even vibrate.
I don't know if you do this or not, but after you bend and secure the stainless bands. I take a sharp center punch and place it directly over the sleeve it slides through and drive a holding punch mark through all the layers and at the end you cut as an additional security measure. I feel (please tell me if you think i am wrong) that by doing so it gives the layers a place to hold each other together nicely and avoid the edge from snagging and pulling it out of the ears. As i had a walmart bag snag on the end going down the freeway and the plastic bag managed to straighten the band out and it slid apart at 70mph.
I can see that as helpful for sure. I tapped mine down a bit to kind of crimp it, so yeah, I think you are right any extra security there would be good
Put the clamp on facing the other way
Dude, Love your videos!! So much help!! Thank you!!
great to hear and thank you!!
WOW. Awesome video, you are subbed sir! I have an identical 2004 WJ 4.7 NV247 with 107Kmi that I just purchased. It has no weird noises, but it does have a serious driveline vibe noticeable from 40+ mph. I removed the front driveshaft (double cardan) and about 90% of the vibration was gone - so I took the front driveshaft to a reputable drive shaft rebuilder. After doing a quick hand exercising of the joints and pulling the open caps, he said it was fine. I had him balance it anyway. When I picked it up he said it was an ounce off and I saw where he removed the old weights and tacked on new ones. After installation, the vibration is worse...LOL. Are there any other components to check for the source of the vibration - or should I just go ahead and rebuild the front driveshaft? Thanks for reading this, I sincerely appreciate your response. KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!! - Mike
update: I took the front driveshaft out again tonight and road tested it. It is smooth as silk again...no vibes that I can tell. I checked all the front control arm bushings, motor mounts and trans mount with a prybar, they seem fine. truck is 100% stock highway queen (if that helps)
very good video thank you
i replaced everything here is the list
front cv or axle shafts both
both front hubs
rotors brakes pads and calipers
all for upper and lower ball joints
diff fluid and the gears looked great
the transfer case fluid it was black and like water
the steering drag link and the other linkages
so the only thing i did not replace on the front it the drive shaft
i will do this next sunday thank yo for this video it is exactly what the noise sound like not he 2004 grand cherokee 4.0
and it only make noise in 4x4 that is it nothing else
do you think this could be the problem ?
Excellent 👍
it would be cool if you did a NP 242 rebuild and cable adjustment. I put mine in four wheel drive once and it was very difficult to switch gear positions and now in two wheel drive sitting at a traffic light the part-time light will come on and go off during take off.
+Jason Olson Haven't had to do one yet - but certainly will document when/if we do. Thx!
Can u still do the swap from a rzeppa to the double cardan if you have a 247 transfer case
Do you have a parts list?
Nice video, i bought a front shaft ZJ to update mine cj7, to turn dana300
Whats behind the other boot at 18:00? Dont you change parts in there or regrease anything in there?
i think it is a telescoping section so the driveshaft can stretch in length slightly when the axle lowers down from the normal ride height it is greased and booted already and appears he has already done it not to long ago.
What part number is the slinger and Y yoke? I've been looking to rebuild my double Cardin drive shaft for my 2001 Grand Cherokee and I can't find those two pieces.
Me either, I've looked at every local parts house and they say the parts arnt available
I want some of those 5100 shocks.
I have a ZJ 5.2 L V8 4x4 nice car
Very good video, I'm going to replace my WJ 2002 cv driveshaft too. But have on idea for spec of 3 jaw baring remover which its suitable for this job and others common work on my WJ. Could you pls. advice for this tool.?
thanks good video
Great and informative video. Thanks for taking the time to share and help others.
Question for you: I have a 99 Grand Cherokee with a CV-CV front driveshaft that I'm rebuilding now (on the floor behind me as I type). I prefer to convert both yokes to u-joint style and change the driveshaft to u-joints as well; however, even though double-cardan is preferred - couldn't I run a driveshaft with single u-joints on both ends?
I'm not engineering genius, but it would seem that a double-cardan front driveshaft with adapters needed to mate up to the CV style yokes would vibrate more than if that same double-cardan driveshaft instead bolted to u-joint style yokes which tucks the spinning mass/knuckles closer to solid housings. With true ujoint yokes, any ujoint (double cardan included) could therefore bolt directly to the yokes as close to the transfer case and axles as possible. The spinning mass of the driveshaft would then be closer. As stated above, my interest is to run a single ujoint at both ends of my front driveshaft if it's possible. My rear driveshaft is like this; it's not a double-cardan.
Suspension Config:
+2 inch springs
1-inch transfer case drop and a 1-inch spacer at the rear control arm; both to reduce driveshaft angle by one inch. Running a 2.5 inch life now; the driveshaft should only be seeing a 1.5 inch lift due to this.
CV yoke at the Dana 30 axle, and CV yoke at the transfer case
** In the past I've ran a Tom Woods double-cardan driveshaft but the WJ was plagued with vibration over 60 MPH so the driveshaft was pulled off and let sit in a garage.
I'm wanting to avoid vibration. The yokes and assembly have been checked and are good; this is driveshaft problem.
JT I feel like you'd want to convert the yokes to a ujoint yoke on diff and tc ends. the single cardan/double cardan offers more flex movement for smoothness on angles than a single/single would. and. you'd want the yokes to match the design with no adapters to limit variables that may impact vibration
You all probably dont care but does any of you know of a way to get back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Brandon Augustus instablaster :)
@Justin Major i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Justin Major it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you really help me out !
Quick question, I have an 01 Wj Double Cardon. I have a 2 1/2 in lift currently no issues/vibrations/tested well on trails. From what ive gathered, for my 6 1/2 in lift from iron rock auto, I can keep my driveshaft and it will be fine. What is your opinion? A response would be greatly appricated... Thanks!!
Ajay Preach I think so with the double cardan. Im wondering if the iro lift has a transfer case drop in it to help ds angle? Either way prob not a bad idea to call them to verify but I would think your in better shape already having the double cardan unit
They do have spacers that come with the kit for the TC. I forgot to mention that.
Ajay Preach Cool! That should definitely help keep things good
Thanks for your quick responses brother! Take care. Ill comment back after the build you can watch the vid if you like!
Ajay Preach Definitely! looking forward to checking it out! good luck on your build!
Awesome video, thanks!
Is there an easy way to know what length driveshaft you need? For example, some people say you can not run a WJ 4.7L driveshaft on more than 2.5" lift. I understand that its shorter, but what is the way to measure the needed minimum length.
Thanks!
I would contact a driveline shop for measuring recommendations.
Most measure from weld to weld, just google it there’s a lot out there
What is the part number for the ball and spring assembly(double cardan)
, i only found a replacement ball and spring not the entire assembly that you used here.
Hi Vortex
Great Video's. I cannot find part 2 of the Driveshaft Special....?
Catching up, and just wrapped it up. It's uploading, but will take some time - should be posted tomorrow!
Thanks, really helpful clip
41:33 i have a problem with this gasket. It is to loose. Can I use some glue to keep this together?
Hi I have a 2002 wj and about to fit a double double cardon with a 6.5 inch iro lift. I currently have the repezza to repezza front shaft. I'm aware I need to change the yolks but as you mentioned it's not as easy as a straight swap on the front diff side. Do you have any suggestions as to how to do this or am I best to take it to a diff specialist. Many thanks in advance.
My CV only had 1 gasket at the front. Also, I thought you weren't supposed to grease the U-joint caps?
Hi I'm in England and the only prop shaft with double cartage is the one from Zj would it fit a wj ? Thank you your videos are great help
Don't ever rebuild a Rzeppa joint. For the same price or less you can get a DC shaft from a junk yard. Having your Rzeppa joint fail is a gift from gob because now you have an excuse to upgrade. Also, any DC shaft from a ZJ will work on any WJ with a lift up to 3 inches. after 3 inches you will have to get a longer shaft or do a TC drop (tho you should be dropping your TC anyway after 3")
Why would you fix an inferior design and part. Swap,shafts and be done. Still a nice detailed job!
Hay i have a 02 ford ranger with a lift with a dubbul cardun im getting vibration at 45 mph you think its the U joints it's on the front when I take the driveshaft off all vibrations go away thanks by the way it's a super lift
Notice that uni joints are in phase on double cardan drive shaft if your spine is out by 1 it will vibrate
I have a 4.0L with 242 front prop shaft is double cv joint. I have all the bolts out but cant seem to get the drive shaft out. Is there a trick or just a bfh or what?
I took a 3/16 punch and came through one of the holes on the backside (not the screw holes) two strikes opened enough gap to use a flathead to pry it off.... hope this helps someone else
What were the part numbers? Watched the whole video and didn't see em.
I have a 2003 WJ with the 4.0L engine with selectable 2W, All Wheel, and 4WD, 197k miles. I have a clunk and a significant lurch when shifting from park to drive, park to reverse, and reverse to drive. After inspecting both driveshafts, I can rotate both back and forth by hand a bit (about 15 or 20 degrees) when the vehicle is in park and almost replicate the clunk. Should the driveshafts have any play like this? Should I be concerned with the safety of the vehicle with this movement? I figure replacing the U joints and rebuilding the CV joint would be a good start anyways, but I am worried about other problems or damaged components I might run into that the old U joints may have caused. What should I look for during the driveshaft removal so I can prepare to fix this issue properly?
Diesel export WJ's has rzeppas in both ends of both driveshafts. No U-joints anywhere.
Can i use two vc joint in the same cardan? Is it possible to be used without any risk of brake?
Great video but you missed one step should have pulled the boot off regreased the splines and put it back together.
Anyone know the torque specs for the front drive shaft yoke bolts???
Hi, thanks for the vids, they're very informative! Question: What ball joint removal kit are you using? I need to rebuild my double cardan, and am in the market for one.
Thanks!
Anthony Weed Sorry for slow reply here, but believe my kit is the ATD tool 8697 available on Amazon
I need to know if the ds from the v8 with the dc joint will fit in my i6 they are both 2002. I also need to know if the yolk from the v8 with the dc joint will fit my 242.
They front drive shaft from the V8 should work., as long as your Jeep has the proper yokes. If your Jeep has the repezza yokes, you will need to switch yokes. I believe the lengths of the FRONT dc driveshafts are the same for both i6 and V8's. The transfer case yoke should work for the 242. If you end up having to switch your front transfer case yoke, might as well throw a new seal in there too while the yoke is off.
I
+Catlin Thomas cool thanks
Hey so im guna put a new(junkyard) rezeppa on my front. Are you saying i need New yoke for my np242 ? I cant just bolt everything on like how the old one came off?
Can you link to the cv kit you used in the video? Trying to find a good brand.
This is the one I used: www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=978&search=me807
+Vortex Garage
Thanks! I looked at that, but it just seemed too cheap to be any good. But I also didnt want to shell out $120 for a Crown if it's only temporary until my lift. I think I will give this one a shot.
+Kelli Loveland The cv itself felt tight with no binding and looked like good quality - I was happy with it. I did a KJ Liberty with a Dorman kit and wasn't impressed plus the Dorman kit was twice as much. The person who has the WJ we did the me807 kit on has a few thousand miles on it so far and no issues yet.
+Vortex Garage Good to hear. I should have it in a day or so. The Dorman got pretty bad reviews on Amazon.
+Vortex Garage Just got my kit today and it only has one gasket. Which is also pictured on the website. Hopefully that means the new kit only needs the one gasket up front! I guess I will find out...
I have a v8 wj with the rezeppa can i put my old 4 liters zj double cardan shaft if they both have 242 t case ?
Question i have a V6 WJ 2001. not sure of the Gear Ratio yet.. but anyways i'm buying a 2 Inch lift kit from Rough Country will this Damage my Driveshaft at all? Thanks!
It may lower the lifespan of the rzeppa joints if equipped. But would be worse if the lift were higher than 2"
+Vortex Garage I have a '99 WJ Limited 4.7L with 183k and after putting new OME "2" inch springs the pinion side joint started humming badly. Removed the driveshaft and the humming went away. Will the new Rzeppa's last at all or should I just go ahead and convert to DC/U-joint?
+Vim Njicki Not entirely sure, to be honest. I have heard with 2" of lift the rzeppa is usable but wont last as long. Just don't know how long without checking some forums out...
+Vim Njicki I had a 2" on my WJ and it ate through the rezeppa bearings... I went through 2 rezeppa bearings in about a 14 month period. The double-cardan driveshaft would be the best way to go if you intent to keep the 2" lift or install a bigger lift.
The gear ratio should be stamped on a metal tag on the differential cover, along with the recommend gear oil. One on the front diff cover and one on the rear diff cover... These goes missing very frequently. But if/when you do the next gear oil change, the gear ratio should be physically stamped somewhere on the carrier of each diff. If you need more help, check out wjjeeps.com, they will most definitely have it there!
Buon giorno
Complimenti per il video vorrei sapere come si chiama o se a un codice l,estrattore che usa per sfilare le crocette perché non l ho trovo per acquistarlo grazie
Where are u now Mr.Vortex u coming back?
yep! I have a Spitfire resto update coming and a few more Jeep vids to edit and post. :)
I love u XD nice work lovin the channel
+jim kapass Awesome, thanks! Appreciate the feedback and looking forward to posting some updates!
This one time at band clamp...
where I can send you a picture? I want to show you the broken part!
best place is jeepforum.com
Technically both are cv joints. The double cardin is just a better one. And didn't the wj start in '99? Hmm.
I have WJ I6 w selectrac 242, w repezza joint only at TC, the video is great but missing one thing. Can any one verify if the stock yoke from v8 WJ w DC and NP247 quadrajunk, does it have same spline and length to b a direct bolt up on the NP 242 selectrac TC since I need to change that to get the DC,.also does the zj V8 DC shaft the one to get bc it has longer slip yoke,or is the wj v8 DC a dirct bolt up if that yoke at the TC fits, and u have u joint at pinion. I'm trying to use all factory parts not trying to order a yoke from DS shop. Any response would b much appreciated.
Gabe Mundo same spline count. I just swapped a242wj TC into my wj with the 247TC. The 242wj had a rzeppa front DS, and my 247 came from the factory with the DC DS. Swapped right over.
We’re can I find the slinger
NO MUSIC NEEDED
hi iam from to venezuela . I need information about u joint rear to my jeep grand cherokee wj. its broken. I need your help. thank you.
Hi - the WJ Jeep uses a 1310 style ujoint in the rear. very common size. I would ask your parts depot for a 1310 style ujoint. I think the Spicer brand ones I used are part # 5135x, and ones from moog are part number 269. going off memory here :)
Also check out the video on doing Mountaineer Ujoints. They are very much the same process, but the wj has differenr yokes, a slip yoke that pulls out of the transfer case and a cardan style yoke on the differetia like both front shafts in this video you are commenting on. hope this helps! If not checkout jeepforum.com
closed captions keeps saying "CB" and "CD" for CV
"98 wj"😂😂🤦♂️
HELP. HELP PLEASE
Good info, except you are wrong about strength. The CV joint can take a higher torque load. It's a stronger engineered design.
dreadful background music
Skip the intro...gay waste of time