Man, you did everything right. Stable camera, well-lit, focused shots. And you seem to actually have fun with the hassles that would make me cuss. Thank you, Dan.
Just a heads up: @4:06 your front coil perches are completely gone! I just had to replace mine for the same reason, they rust out bc Chrysler sucks at designing drainage points. It is not very safe without them bc the coil can move around as you drive!!! Doorman makes a bolt in replacement, that is what I went with since only the tops rusted out. Your link brackets and lower shock mount areas look fine so it should work for you too. Dorman 926-079 (driver side), Dorman 926-078 (passenger side). Only alternative is to weld new ones on, you can look it up bc this is a very common issue. Great video!
Had to also do the rear only one place sells them for the rear called rustys off road in the south some place. Man I get to replace everything since the spring perch brackets failed.
Thank you very much for addressing the resting stance. I was losing sleep over that until you told me so so now I am readjusting my control arms because I did them on a lift lift.
You saved me a big headache. Thank you. I didn't realize the axle housing side bushings were separate either. My Dad just bought an 04 and I loaded up the parts cannon to redo the front end.
Doing the same thing on my 94 ZJ. Had to make a run to buy ratchet straps to pull the Dana 30 so the upper CA bolts line up. It's a PITA . Also doing 4 BJ, 4 springs and a RC 1.5" lift with 4 shocks and stab pins. I appreciate your channel to get ideas on how to attack things on my Jeep, thank you.
Just did my rear control arms/links and sway bar bushings this weekend. That was a solid 4 hours and 3 beers. Thanks for this vid. Showed me some short cuts and also that I need bushing press before I begin that project. Thank the Lord for air tools. Great vid brother. Keep up the great work!! 😁
Before you take out the bolt that's inside the frame, shove a rag inside in case your drop your socket or the bolt falls in. The rag will save you from having to fish out whatever you dropped.
How fun! We’re about to install Clayton adjustable short arms for the Grey Goat!! Long arms will have to wait for another time 😜 But now we can fit those 35’s and hit the Jeep Jamboree in July 😎🍦🐐💪
Funny how I just did this job this past weekend. Only I swapped in a junkyard Dana 30 axle, added new ball joints, and coil springs, but other than that it was the same job.
@@ProjectDanH Yeah, it sure took care of the death wobble. Not a fun job. Sadly, I think doing the rear control arms is going to be worse. Swapped out the np249 for a np242(looks like an HD) but the driveshaft was tight going in at the rear axle. I got a bad feeling I'm going to need to have it shortened.
I got bad news for you. Unfortunately I just put on 2 sets and well have to do it again. You see you just pulled out the spring. The lower spring perch is totally shot. The only way you can pull the spring out is when you have a jack stand under the body, pull a shock and sway link fasteners off one side, you don't need to take it fully off. Then you can Lower the jack under the axle and it'll go down far enough to pop out the string. I ended up getting the front spring perch brackets off Amazon and it's called rustys in the south only one place that sells them for the rear. But you have to cut them off and weld new ones on. Felt like I was driving a washing machine had to replace all 4 and now I'm going 100% over the whole underside cause it messed everything. Need to get the front inner bushings was gonna swap them out today bit did realize them the last time or two who sells them bushings.
I’m changing out my rear upper control arm, ball joint & bushings. Also new lower control arm, rotors, calibers, axles and emergency parking brakes. I may change out gas tank skid plate due to damage from rear end accident previous owner had,
FAST on his feet with the "CONGRATULATIONS" camera work! Boom. Dude, I just replaced my first steering damper, and hoooooooo did I congratulate myself today! ha.
Nice job. I especially liked the weld modification on that XJ bolt. I'm psyching up for this job on my ZJ. It's not an easy decision because I"m probably double your age, so I just don't know if I can take doing the worm on the ground anymore. I have the squirming know-how, but the old body adds challenges. Still, if I do decide to take the plunge to the grunge, and down some prophylactic muscle relaxers, your video will come in handy. Thanks for putting it together and posting it. Good video work, explanation, and sense of humor, Dan. H. Good on ya'. Cheers.
First off my neck hurts now 🤣 Dan H. Needs an automotive hammer like a dead blow sledge or 24 oz ball peen hammer they will make life easier . Great Job and the custom bolt was epic !!
Great video! Thanks for the heads up on the bushings. I think the holes on the control arms go to the inside, I guess it doesn't make any difference, nothing goes in them front or rear.
If you have one in San Francisco and get your work done in South SF it's almost $1400-1700 . Don't assume the parts to repair the upper and lower control arms, drag links ball joints are readily available. Buy your parts first and show up with the correct ones. I simply don't have time after new motor install, then transmission. When I went to have her aligned a must after you install the control arms and replace everything the frame was bent, so that was an additional $200. A classic situation is cheap parts, no alignment performed or both and parts melting after 8000 miles. These WJ suspensions are a marvel considering they are solid axle! When I think solid front and rear I conjure images of leaf springs. I can see why jeep eventually just migrated to independent front.
Buen vídeo tengo una WJ overland 2000-2005 y le voy a hacer ese trabajo, gracias desde Venezuela, y también voy a tener una fría al lado para refrescarme...
WJs are a great off road capable rig And I’m sure by now a few thousand people have told you about how to properly install control arms that have rubber bushings NEVER TIGHTEN THEM DOWN UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS SETTLED ON ITS OWN WEIGHT if you tighten them down out of position they will start life in a bind that will cause the bushings to prematurely self-destruct By placing them in a neutral position first You then get equal pressure up and down when your vehicle articulates crossing a ditch or climbing over a bump Making them last a long time If how ever you use a Johnny joint type swivel bushing you can tighten them up in any position. It does not matter. The only consideration is if you are using arms that are bent to accommodate your vehicle make sure you put the bins in the proper direction. PS those jam nuts need 125 to 150 foot pounds of torque A big crescent wrench to buy yourself a good 1/2” drive crows foot that fits those jam nuts They can work lose and damage the threads making future adjustments difficult if not impossible Frameless and shameless Is the only way to wheel
You are supposed to leave all the bolts loose until done, mount the tires and let the jeep down to fully load the suspension. THEN tighten the bolts. While you got close with the rear upper bolt you tightened the front diff bushing bolt with the suspension drooped. That bushing won't last long and you'll be doing this again soon unless you go out and loosen and retighten those bolts. Also the spring perches were totally rotted away and the springs can actually come off when the axle is fully articulated.
I had rubbing on mine didn't notice I put one in flipped as well. I think they'd work either way I have 245 tire instead of more normal size 235. Great video though.
@@brackoncorbridge1966 Thanks man! Yeah they Definitely easy to reverse if you're not paying attention.. Maybe I'll just replace them with adjustable ones!
Sweet I have no mechanical education but your cámara 🎥 angles and explanations have risen my confidence that I can do this 😂 with little to less than half the tools 🛠️ you have but I’ll do what I can I have to save myself a 1000 dollars 💸
Thanks for the video man 👍 it looks easy, the only thing is I don't have an air hammer I guess I have to chisel it out with the hammer. I hope Im feeling much better tomorrow I've been with the flue 🤧 this past day
Always enjoy your videos Dan! At 1:25, it would be best for the jack stand to be 90 degree from the direction of the woodgrain on your 2 by 4. Depending on the weight, the wood could split with the right amount of movement. Unless you use stronger wood. I only say this because I've seen blocks of wood split or even explode before. I doubt the Jeep is that heavy, just thought I'd let ya know.
Another great video Dan. I did the front upper and lower control arms on my 04 WJ in March. Had a hard time with the passenger side bushing install. Still have driver side to do. Seeing the bevel you put on your bushing should help me get it installed when I get to it. Working on rear suspension at the moment. 👍🏻🇺🇸 Paul
Paul, you should check out these rebuildable axle bushings from Iron Rock Offroad. The inside is rebuildable, so once you press the outside cup in the axle; you never have to mess with pressing anything in again in the future. I have these on my ZJ and I love them. Also, if the bushing gets a little loose; you just tighten it with an allen wrench and you're good. www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/upper-control-arm-flex-joint-8-bolt-10mm-cartridge.html
Hello Dan from Argentina! I don't know if they told you before but I see that your lower arms are now backwards! you did not put them as they were before! At least that's what I just saw when you posted the new ones! They have a curve that goes from the inside out, therefore the holes in the arm remain inside as they were before and now when you bend the wheel it will touch the arm. I'm also changing greetings!
They are not too hard to do more so for Jeep heads. And yah doing those need an alignment so the axle can be set as well as the tie rod you had to fix. Plus good to be sure the front end is all good. Your DW chances are greatly reduced even more now so that’s good!
They wanted $850 just to change a tie rod and two front lower control arms at my local autoshops. Do it yourself, you can rent the presses for putting in ball joints and some expensive tools, some places like Autozone make you pay $100-$200 for deposite to rent and refund you when you return the parts unharmed. They where gonna charge me $600 to change front and rear shocks, got front shocks on but the rear bolts are seized since it's 20 years old and I need replacement bolts since the kits online don't come with rear hardware. But a Sawz-all is far cheaper to rent or buy and cut the bolts off, buy the $20 bolts and save $500 and that's not including cost of shocks. Which I picked up all 4 on sale for $103 shipped (Quality Monroe)
Nice job Dan! Good explanations on what you're doing and using to get the job done! I did rear bearings and seals on my zj Dana#44 rear with oil change( 80/140). C-clip axles are a bit challenging but doable!
Def getting control arms now! New to you channel, maybe you discussed it on previous videos but what lift do you have on your jeep 2"? also how do you like your RC shocks? getting a new set on my WJ and exploring all options, tx for the video!
Unfortunately I wouldn't know how to compare to new factory pieces. I replaced them because the bushings were completely shot. Its 100% better now. lol
Always enjoy your videos Dan and it’s so hard to find good videos for the Jeep Cherokees but you are the man. I have a 2001 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo that I am fighting with in regards to death wobble and I need your help brother so please hit me up or come down to Georgia and film a video at my house! Thanks Bradley 😊
The bushing at the axle, on a WJ has a 10mm dia. bolt. , and the WJ bushing has a 10mm hole. On an XJ the axle bushing and bolt are 12mm. The only difference in the two bushings is the diameter of the bolt. You can put an XJ bushing in a WJ if you get a new grade 8 (10.9 metric) bolt and lock nut. You may have to use a 29/64th drill bit to slightly enlarge the holes in the control arm. Don't make them too big or the bolt will be sloppy and work loose. DO NOT REUSE THE 10mm BOLT! ( 7/16th will work fine too)
Yes hi Dan I got a question I had bought speakers off of you I don't know if you remember anyway I have a question my fuel filter is it's like hissing is that does that mean that it's a bad fuel filter because when I start up my truck it runs a little rough and then it you know runs a little smooth but then it gets a little rough again and everything that I'm reading it's saying that the fuel filter and mine is actually hissing I would appreciate it if maybe you could let me know if that's normal
I wish I had of watch this video before trying my trying my bushing on passenger upper control arm axel side. So mine bent a little, anyway to fix that?
Great Job once again my friend! Although I am a little disappointed to no Happy Gilmore tappy tap tap tap just tap it in reference haha. Great work looking forward to the next one my friend!
Good work but at 11.0 it shows the bush in the diff housing. This is supposed to be pressed right in up to the flange. ( obviously it has still a small gap between the flange and the housing, but only very small ) It should be protruding on the inside in order for the bush to be central in the radius arm.
I'm a little confused. When you take out the control arm at 19:28 minute mark, The holes where on the inside and the bend was towards the inside of truck. When you installed the new one 19:56 the bend was facing you (towards the outside of truck) and the holes were facing you has well. I'm I just seeing this wrong? looks like you put the new one in wrong.
Hello Dan H, I am looking for Control arms for 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0l. I wanted to know if the Maxspeedingrods control arms have held up after a year or so. I can't just run down to parts house to pick up a set. I can only order them online and would not be able to return them if they are no good. I wanted your opinion after you had them for a while. I was looking at Moog and Mevotech then I saw your video. I am overseas and would appreciate any helpful knowledge you can give.
I thought my spring cups were rusted when I looked inside and saw the top sitting over a rusty hole where the walls used to be 😂 guess I was worried for nothing.
Why the hell doesn't part manufacturers include the needed hardware with the parts? Grinds my gears ⚙️ I have rear Monroe shocks for my 02 Jeep WJ (Laredo 4.7L V8 4x4) just sitting in the back hatch waiting for the correct bolts because the front + rear shock kit didn't include rear bolts and nuts. In case anyone needs Bolts for the Rear shocks on a 94-04 WJ, they are: M12x1.75x80mm top and M12x1.75x70mm bottom Hex Flange Bolt with partial threads. They have to be SAE 8 grade(Standard OEM strength or greater) I ordered Grade 10.9 which is far stronger than OEM. The Nuts have to be Grade 10 at least and M12x1.75 I recommend you get Flanged Nuts and Bolts (Hex head 16mm/18mm wrench) you can get Flanged Nuts with nylon lock gasket to keep them from coming off but I'm just getting regular flange so I can get them off easier if needed. Torque to OEM specs. I recommend using Yellow Zinc Bolts and Nuts instead of Black Oxide because they are more corrosion proof. Look on BelMetric for the high quality automotive fasteners (bolt/nuts/washers) About $2.40 a bolt and $0.56 a nut, BelMetric let's you choose partial thread, coating, length and size of threads, bolt head and tells you socket size. I think the rear upper control arms are M14x1.75x110mm but check specs to make sure, I may be mistaken. People on Jeep forums are very knowledgeable
Dan, I was doing a suspension overhaul on my WJ. The rear went very smoothly, but the front is giving me too many problems. So I basically took everything out and the axle was just sitting in jack stands, I painted everything around for rust prevention. I got brand new control arms, struts and steering stabilizers. The track bar bushings however are Moog. I’ve been trying to put back everything. First I put the upper and lower control arm in place, and then I put the track bar in place and now the passenger side upper control is rubbing against the catalytic convertor. What am I doing wrong here? Is there a sequence to put back stuff? Please let me know, thanks.
Sorry for the late reply, hope you got it in by now. if not work top down, just slide the bolts in without tightening the nuts, use ratchet straps to pull and maneuver the axle. also use the jack to manipulate angles. God speed!
That track bar driver side bushing is not lpoking grwta either buddy. Better handle that now before the death wobble kicks in. (If it didnt right after doing these control arms)
Are the frame end and axle end upper control arm bushings the same part? Nobody seems to know and I've called 4 wheel drive specialists as well as the auto parts stores.
My 1999 WJ 4.0 had the Front Lower Control arms replaced. Now the car has a distinctive, creeeaking noise., which is definitely coming from somewhere in the front suspension. Took it back to mechanic, we rocked it from side to side and the noise was quite loud, but he said it's not coming from the new control arms. Took it to another mechanic, he said it's the Panhard Rod bushes. Replaced them. Creeeaking noise isn't quite as bad, but it's still there. This noise is driving me to distraction...Any clues as to what it could be??? Cheers from Australia.
Hate to gice you bad news bit that driversside lower control arm is on backwards. The curve should go jneard so there is room for the tire at full lock. I didnt watch the passenger side install yet but also may be backwards. The curve shoukd fo inward away from the tire.
Hey dan, i have a question, i have a cherokee 2000 4.0, 6c, 2wd And i have a big problem, the proble is the stearing wheel its hard as a rock and it has stearing wheel liquid, i hope you know something about it please help :(
At 19: 38 you put the control arm on the right backwards the original one was bowed to the inside the new one is bowed to the outside . Don't know if it will hurt anything ?
Hi Dan, overall do you find the original moar parts are way better than aftermarket? Seems the bushing on aftermarket (moon,Mevotch, especially dorman) don’t last as long.
Inspirational. How many miles on the WJ when you changed the bushings? Thumb up for the video, and I'm really liking your Dewalt XR impact. I need one.
Jeep tj bushings work no problem. No modifications You installed the lowers the wrong way. Bend to the inside or your tires will rub them. Swap out those ate calipers for some akabonos
Man, you did everything right. Stable camera, well-lit, focused shots. And you seem to actually have fun with the hassles that would make me cuss. Thank you, Dan.
Thanks Randy, I appreciate the compliment
Just a heads up: @4:06 your front coil perches are completely gone! I just had to replace mine for the same reason, they rust out bc Chrysler sucks at designing drainage points. It is not very safe without them bc the coil can move around as you drive!!! Doorman makes a bolt in replacement, that is what I went with since only the tops rusted out. Your link brackets and lower shock mount areas look fine so it should work for you too. Dorman 926-079 (driver side), Dorman 926-078 (passenger side). Only alternative is to weld new ones on, you can look it up bc this is a very common issue. Great video!
Had to also do the rear only one place sells them for the rear called rustys off road in the south some place. Man I get to replace everything since the spring perch brackets failed.
Lol.. yep . Gone! Rust sucks
Thank you very much for addressing the resting stance. I was losing sleep over that until you told me so so now I am readjusting my control arms because I did them on a lift lift.
I was out in my driveway working on my wife's minivan for about 4 hours. She came out to check on me with my life insurance policy in her pocket! Lol!
🤣🤣🤣🤣 classic!
I need gas thank covered for the bouton off the thank
It’s 2004 jeep Cherokee
Great job on camera and lighting... also I lol'd a couple times too.... "wow, what a hole"
Thanks man! I try to make it easy for you guys to follow!
You saved me a big headache. Thank you. I didn't realize the axle housing side bushings were separate either. My Dad just bought an 04 and I loaded up the parts cannon to redo the front end.
Thanks for watching!!
Doing the same thing on my 94 ZJ. Had to make a run to buy ratchet straps to pull the Dana 30 so the upper CA bolts line up. It's a PITA . Also doing 4 BJ, 4 springs and a RC 1.5" lift with 4 shocks and stab pins. I appreciate your channel to get ideas on how to attack things on my Jeep, thank you.
Thank you for watching! Best of luck with your Jeep work!
I just found your channel. I thought you were grate for all the movie references but after you welled that bolt you’re a legend dude.
Just did my rear control arms/links and sway bar bushings this weekend. That was a solid 4 hours and 3 beers. Thanks for this vid. Showed me some short cuts and also that I need bushing press before I begin that project. Thank the Lord for air tools.
Great vid brother. Keep up the great work!! 😁
Thanks man.. I probably had too many beers cuz I put my control arms in facing the wrong way 🤣
Great wife coming out to check on you and see if you need anything! Looks like a hell of a job, nice work bro!
She's amazing.. I've said it before and I'll say it again... This channel wouldn't be possible without her support!
Best jeep control arm video I've seen. Thanks bro
Thanks Josh. Remember the control arm curve bends inward away from the wheels. (Not like how I did it ,🤦) lol
Before you take out the bolt that's inside the frame, shove a rag inside in case your drop your socket or the bolt falls in. The rag will save you from having to fish out whatever you dropped.
How fun! We’re about to install Clayton adjustable short arms for the Grey Goat!! Long arms will have to wait for another time 😜 But now we can fit those 35’s and hit the Jeep Jamboree in July 😎🍦🐐💪
Those arms awesome.. they'll definitely get you buy until long arms! I can't wait to get my long arms in beach jeep.. soon I guess. Lol
"Thank you Jesus" I love it 😀
I don't know how many times I've said that. LoL
Cant say it enough!! Amen!
Funny how I just did this job this past weekend. Only I swapped in a junkyard Dana 30 axle, added new ball joints, and coil springs, but other than that it was the same job.
Yeah if you needed a new front end now it definitely be the time to do it... Great job!
@@ProjectDanH Yeah, it sure took care of the death wobble. Not a fun job. Sadly, I think doing the rear control arms is going to be worse. Swapped out the np249 for a np242(looks like an HD) but the driveshaft was tight going in at the rear axle. I got a bad feeling I'm going to need to have it shortened.
What perfect timing, just got control arms and was gonna replace them tomorrow! Now I don't have to search around, love it.
Awesome! Good luck👍
Dan if you have to do that again put the bushings in the freezer easier going into the axle holes
thanks for the tip!
Thanks for the very well recorded and explained video. I have to do this to my 99 Grand Cherokee.
Thanks for watching!
I got bad news for you. Unfortunately I just put on 2 sets and well have to do it again. You see you just pulled out the spring. The lower spring perch is totally shot. The only way you can pull the spring out is when you have a jack stand under the body, pull a shock and sway link fasteners off one side, you don't need to take it fully off. Then you can Lower the jack under the axle and it'll go down far enough to pop out the string. I ended up getting the front spring perch brackets off Amazon and it's called rustys in the south only one place that sells them for the rear. But you have to cut them off and weld new ones on. Felt like I was driving a washing machine had to replace all 4 and now I'm going 100% over the whole underside cause it messed everything. Need to get the front inner bushings was gonna swap them out today bit did realize them the last time or two who sells them bushings.
I’m changing out my rear upper control arm, ball joint & bushings. Also new lower control arm, rotors, calibers, axles and emergency parking brakes. I may change out gas tank skid plate due to damage from rear end accident previous owner had,
Heck yeah brother! do it all when you have it all apart!
👍🏻🇺🇸
FAST on his feet with the "CONGRATULATIONS" camera work! Boom. Dude, I just replaced my first steering damper, and hoooooooo did I congratulate myself today! ha.
Right on! Congrats with the fix!!!
Nice job. I especially liked the weld modification on that XJ bolt. I'm psyching up for this job on my ZJ. It's not an easy decision because I"m probably double your age, so I just don't know if I can take doing the worm on the ground anymore. I have the squirming know-how, but the old body adds challenges. Still, if I do decide to take the plunge to the grunge, and down some prophylactic muscle relaxers, your video will come in handy. Thanks for putting it together and posting it. Good video work, explanation, and sense of humor, Dan. H. Good on ya'. Cheers.
True or false: freezing the bushings makes them go in easier. I’ve heard a rumor.
Great video! Wish I lived somewhere I could find 20 year old vehicles that clean...
Yep, look out for rust!
First off my neck hurts now 🤣 Dan H. Needs an automotive hammer like a dead blow sledge or 24 oz ball peen hammer they will make life easier . Great Job and the custom bolt was epic !!
Haha! I was considering a 5lb sledge! Thanks brother 💪
@@ProjectDanH Hammer Time !! 🤣
Great job! Your jack ratcheting at 20:47 was like the countdown on Mission Impossible!
Lol.. very tense moments!
Great video! Thanks for the heads up on the bushings. I think the holes on the control arms go to the inside, I guess it doesn't make any difference, nothing goes in them front or rear.
If you have one in San Francisco and get your work done in South SF it's almost $1400-1700 . Don't assume the parts to repair the upper and lower control arms, drag links ball joints are readily available. Buy your parts first and show up with the correct ones. I simply don't have time after new motor install, then transmission. When I went to have her aligned a must after you install the control arms and replace everything the frame was bent, so that was an additional $200. A classic situation is cheap parts, no alignment performed or both and parts melting after 8000 miles. These WJ suspensions are a marvel considering they are solid axle! When I think solid front and rear I conjure images of leaf springs. I can see why jeep eventually just migrated to independent front.
Thanks for your input.. ill make sure I steer clear of SF 🤣
Buen vídeo tengo una WJ overland 2000-2005 y le voy a hacer ese trabajo, gracias desde Venezuela, y también voy a tener una fría al lado para refrescarme...
Amen Jesus. Cheers! 🍻
WJs are a great off road capable rig
And I’m sure by now a few thousand people have told you about how to properly install control arms that have rubber bushings
NEVER TIGHTEN THEM DOWN UNTIL THE VEHICLE IS SETTLED ON ITS OWN WEIGHT
if you tighten them down out of position they will start life in a bind that will cause the bushings to prematurely self-destruct
By placing them in a neutral position first
You then get equal pressure up and down when your vehicle articulates crossing a ditch or climbing over a bump
Making them last a long time
If how ever you use a Johnny joint type swivel bushing you can tighten them up in any position. It does not matter. The only consideration is if you are using arms that are bent to accommodate your vehicle make sure you put the bins in the proper direction.
PS those jam nuts need 125 to 150 foot pounds of torque
A big crescent wrench to buy yourself a good 1/2” drive crows foot that fits those jam nuts
They can work lose and damage the threads making future adjustments difficult if not impossible
Frameless and shameless
Is the only way to wheel
You are supposed to leave all the bolts loose until done, mount the tires and let the jeep down to fully load the suspension. THEN tighten the bolts. While you got close with the rear upper bolt you tightened the front diff bushing bolt with the suspension drooped. That bushing won't last long and you'll be doing this again soon unless you go out and loosen and retighten those bolts. Also the spring perches were totally rotted away and the springs can actually come off when the axle is fully articulated.
He also put both lower control arms in with the wrong side facing out. It even shows on the thumbnail to the video.
Good job, the best vid I have seen for this project.
Man those bushings were shot another great video brother
They were sooooo shot! Thanks 💪
Very good, my friend, thank you for such a wonderful video, kudos to you!👍👍
Thank you Erin!
Try Dorman 926-078 and 926-079, They run about $50 a piece. Bolt In Lower Coil Spring Bracket Repair Perch, Did both sides on mine recently!
Your driver's side lower was put in backwards. The curve goes on the outside for the tire to clean
Passenger side is backwards as well.
😱😱😱 I flipped em!
I had rubbing on mine didn't notice I put one in flipped as well. I think they'd work either way I have 245 tire instead of more normal size 235. Great video though.
@@brackoncorbridge1966 Thanks man! Yeah they Definitely easy to reverse if you're not paying attention.. Maybe I'll just replace them with adjustable ones!
@@ProjectDanH tht was my first thought was wait those aren't adjustable like the back ones are lol.
Sweet I have no mechanical education but your cámara 🎥 angles and explanations have risen my confidence that I can do this 😂 with little to less than half the tools 🛠️ you have but I’ll do what I can I have to save myself a 1000 dollars 💸
Thanks for the video man 👍 it looks easy, the only thing is I don't have an air hammer I guess I have to chisel it out with the hammer. I hope Im feeling much better tomorrow I've been with the flue 🤧 this past day
Always enjoy your videos Dan! At 1:25, it would be best for the jack stand to be 90 degree from the direction of the woodgrain on your 2 by 4.
Depending on the weight, the wood could split with the right amount of movement. Unless you use stronger wood. I only say this because I've seen blocks of wood split or even explode before. I doubt the Jeep is that heavy, just thought I'd let ya know.
Excellent observation! Your absolutely right! I'll make sure I swap em around next time!
things about old cars, the money depreciates but not the labor and the oem parts
Fact!
Another great video Dan. I did the front upper and lower control arms on my 04 WJ in March. Had a hard time with the passenger side bushing install. Still have driver side to do. Seeing the bevel you put on your bushing should help me get it installed when I get to it. Working on rear suspension at the moment.
👍🏻🇺🇸 Paul
Yeah I definitely needed to get that bevel in there... I just wouldn't go in without it!
Paul, you should check out these rebuildable axle bushings from Iron Rock Offroad. The inside is rebuildable, so once you press the outside cup in the axle; you never have to mess with pressing anything in again in the future. I have these on my ZJ and I love them. Also, if the bushing gets a little loose; you just tighten it with an allen wrench and you're good. www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/upper-control-arm-flex-joint-8-bolt-10mm-cartridge.html
@@stormtrooper_jeep_zj Thanks for that info 👍🏻🇺🇸
Love you content man new wj owner
Welcome aboard! Enjoy the Jeep!
Better address your front lower coil spring perch issue. Mine were rusted out too. Bought the Dorman bolt on kit, then welded them into place.
Smart! I gotta do that!
The same work remains to be done. Spare parts are ordered. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Man!
Nice video, have you noticed any issues after installing the lower control arms upside down?
That looked like a fun one brother...😂😂😂
Yes! I actually sung a tune for ya in this one 🤣🤣🤣
Hello Dan from Argentina! I don't know if they told you before but I see that your lower arms are now backwards! you did not put them as they were before! At least that's what I just saw when you posted the new ones! They have a curve that goes from the inside out, therefore the holes in the arm remain inside as they were before and now when you bend the wheel it will touch the arm. I'm also changing greetings!
Lol. Yes 🤣🤣 one too many coronas
@@ProjectDanH 😆🍻
You should look into the wj spring cup repair kit
Absolutely
Musta been like giving her a mild lift by comparison. Well played sir
They are not too hard to do more so for Jeep heads. And yah doing those need an alignment so the axle can be set as well as the tie rod you had to fix. Plus good to be sure the front end is all good. Your DW chances are greatly reduced even more now so that’s good!
Amen brother.. anything to reduce DW! Lol.
love the WJ!
Same!
Would this and other additional bushing replacements be the solution to most of my rattling and knocking noises ??
Yes and death wobble too
Great video! I feel confident in replacing mine after watching this video. I'm sure my bushings will look just like yours or worse. Lol
lol, Glad it helped! Good luck!
They wanted $850 just to change a tie rod and two front lower control arms at my local autoshops.
Do it yourself, you can rent the presses for putting in ball joints and some expensive tools, some places like Autozone make you pay $100-$200 for deposite to rent and refund you when you return the parts unharmed.
They where gonna charge me $600 to change front and rear shocks, got front shocks on but the rear bolts are seized since it's 20 years old and I need replacement bolts since the kits online don't come with rear hardware.
But a Sawz-all is far cheaper to rent or buy and cut the bolts off, buy the $20 bolts and save $500 and that's not including cost of shocks. Which I picked up all 4 on sale for $103 shipped (Quality Monroe)
Great Job! DIY projects will always save you money!
Great job, got this to do this on my ZJ soon.
Good luck!
Ok bro. appreciate👍
Thanks!
Nice job Dan! Good explanations on what you're doing and using to get the job done! I did rear bearings and seals on my zj Dana#44 rear with oil change( 80/140). C-clip axles are a bit challenging but doable!
That's great man! Everything is doable with enough time and the right tools!
Def getting control arms now! New to you channel, maybe you discussed it on previous videos but what lift do you have on your jeep 2"? also how do you like your RC shocks? getting a new set on my WJ and exploring all options, tx for the video!
Thanks for watching, RC has been ok. Price is right, they get some flack sometimes but they're better than stock! lol
How does the quality of the MSR arms compare the factory pieces? Does the gauge and grade of the steel seem similar?
Unfortunately I wouldn't know how to compare to new factory pieces. I replaced them because the bushings were completely shot. Its 100% better now. lol
Movie references are hilarious
Thanks brother! I love that South Park reference u got going on there
Always enjoy your videos Dan and it’s so hard to find good videos for the Jeep Cherokees but you are the man. I have a 2001 jeep grand Cherokee Laredo that I am fighting with in regards to death wobble and I need your help brother so please hit me up or come down to Georgia and film a video at my house! Thanks Bradley 😊
Same problem on my 2000, I did the driver side hub, new rotors, pads, driver side tie rod. Next is the control arms (upper and lower both sides)
Greath job brother, thank you
Thank you sir! 💪
The bushing at the axle, on a WJ has a 10mm dia. bolt. , and the WJ bushing has a 10mm hole. On an XJ the axle bushing and bolt are 12mm. The only difference in the two bushings is the diameter of the bolt. You can put an XJ bushing in a WJ if you get a new grade 8 (10.9 metric) bolt and lock nut. You may have to use a 29/64th drill bit to slightly enlarge the holes in the control arm. Don't make them too big or the bolt will be sloppy and work loose. DO NOT REUSE THE 10mm BOLT! ( 7/16th will work fine too)
Excellent Tip!!!!
Yes hi Dan I got a question I had bought speakers off of you I don't know if you remember anyway I have a question my fuel filter is it's like hissing is that does that mean that it's a bad fuel filter because when I start up my truck it runs a little rough and then it you know runs a little smooth but then it gets a little rough again and everything that I'm reading it's saying that the fuel filter and mine is actually hissing I would appreciate it if maybe you could let me know if that's normal
I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to hiss but changing a fuel filter is pretty simple.. give it a shot!
We need the ZJ -> XJ rear disc brake conversion 👀
Yes!! Getting closer!!!
The fact that the control arm sprung up when you released it from the bottom bolt tells me that it was tightened in the up position not on the ground
When the control arms go back up it means they were tightened when the jeep was on the ground
I wish I had of watch this video before trying my trying my bushing on passenger upper control arm axel side. So mine bent a little, anyway to fix that?
Yikes!
Great Job once again my friend! Although I am a little disappointed to no Happy Gilmore tappy tap tap tap just tap it in reference haha. Great work looking forward to the next one my friend!
Haha! Thanks man.. the tappy quote is too easy! Got to use it sparingly 🤣
Good work but at 11.0 it shows the bush in the diff housing. This is supposed to be pressed right in up to the flange. ( obviously it has still a small gap between the flange and the housing, but only very small ) It should be protruding on the inside in order for the bush to be central in the radius arm.
thanks man... I did my best. lol
@@ProjectDanH No criticism. You obviously know what you're doing. Just a small detail. Exchange of information makes this all worthwhile.
I'm a little confused. When you take out the control arm at 19:28 minute mark, The holes where on the inside and the bend was towards the inside of truck. When you installed the new one 19:56 the bend was facing you (towards the outside of truck) and the holes were facing you has well. I'm I just seeing this wrong? looks like you put the new one in wrong.
Buddy your spring perch is missing! Holy crap!
lol, There's still some left!
I hope you sid something about those spring perches.
Hello Dan H, I am looking for Control arms for 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0l. I wanted to know if the Maxspeedingrods control arms have held up after a year or so. I can't just run down to parts house to pick up a set. I can only order them online and would not be able to return them if they are no good. I wanted your opinion after you had them for a while. I was looking at Moog and Mevotech then I saw your video. I am overseas and would appreciate any helpful knowledge you can give.
They have been pretty good. also you may want to try core4x4 !
I thought my spring cups were rusted when I looked inside and saw the top sitting over a rusty hole where the walls used to be 😂 guess I was worried for nothing.
HAHA! nothing is better than rust I guess!! haha
HotShots! Hell yeah
😉
Why the hell doesn't part manufacturers include the needed hardware with the parts?
Grinds my gears ⚙️
I have rear Monroe shocks for my 02 Jeep WJ (Laredo 4.7L V8 4x4) just sitting in the back hatch waiting for the correct bolts because the front + rear shock kit didn't include rear bolts and nuts.
In case anyone needs Bolts for the Rear shocks on a 94-04 WJ, they are:
M12x1.75x80mm top and M12x1.75x70mm bottom Hex Flange Bolt with partial threads.
They have to be SAE 8 grade(Standard OEM strength or greater)
I ordered Grade 10.9 which is far stronger than OEM.
The Nuts have to be Grade 10 at least and M12x1.75
I recommend you get Flanged Nuts and Bolts (Hex head 16mm/18mm wrench) you can get Flanged Nuts with nylon lock gasket to keep them from coming off but I'm just getting regular flange so I can get them off easier if needed. Torque to OEM specs.
I recommend using Yellow Zinc Bolts and Nuts instead of Black Oxide because they are more corrosion proof.
Look on BelMetric for the high quality automotive fasteners (bolt/nuts/washers)
About $2.40 a bolt and $0.56 a nut, BelMetric let's you choose partial thread, coating, length and size of threads, bolt head and tells you socket size.
I think the rear upper control arms are M14x1.75x110mm but check specs to make sure, I may be mistaken. People on Jeep forums are very knowledgeable
Excellent info!! Thank you for your input
Dan, I was doing a suspension overhaul on my WJ. The rear went very smoothly, but the front is giving me too many problems.
So I basically took everything out and the axle was just sitting in jack stands, I painted everything around for rust prevention. I got brand new control arms, struts and steering stabilizers. The track bar bushings however are Moog.
I’ve been trying to put back everything. First I put the upper and lower control arm in place, and then I put the track bar in place and now the passenger side upper control is rubbing against the catalytic convertor. What am I doing wrong here? Is there a sequence to put back stuff? Please let me know, thanks.
Sorry for the late reply, hope you got it in by now. if not work top down, just slide the bolts in without tightening the nuts, use ratchet straps to pull and maneuver the axle. also use the jack to manipulate angles. God speed!
I liked this video so much I watched it again,lol . My wj has 250k , think the bushings are worn ?. lol
Thank you!!! 250k... probably
That track bar driver side bushing is not lpoking grwta either buddy. Better handle that now before the death wobble kicks in. (If it didnt right after doing these control arms)
don't spoil it.. Wait for the death wobble vid! haha
Are the frame end and axle end upper control arm bushings the same part? Nobody seems to know and I've called 4 wheel drive specialists as well as the auto parts stores.
Yes, I have a link to the bushings in the video description
@@ProjectDanH I'm the guy you talked to on Instagram yesterday. Thank you again for the help.
Excellent work
Many thanks!
Don’t you think you could use some bolt on spring brackets? Nothing holding your springs on bottom .
A bit dangerous no?
100% Gotta weld all new spring perches on too!
My 1999 WJ 4.0 had the Front Lower Control arms replaced. Now the car has a distinctive, creeeaking noise., which is definitely coming from somewhere in the front suspension. Took it back to mechanic, we rocked it from side to side and the noise was quite loud, but he said it's not coming from the new control arms. Took it to another mechanic, he said it's the Panhard Rod bushes. Replaced them. Creeeaking noise isn't quite as bad, but it's still there. This noise is driving me to distraction...Any clues as to what it could be??? Cheers from Australia.
Just broke my tooth replacing these
Sorry man. Jeep my life
Hate to gice you bad news bit that driversside lower control arm is on backwards. The curve should go jneard so there is room for the tire at full lock. I didnt watch the passenger side install yet but also may be backwards. The curve shoukd fo inward away from the tire.
yes, the curve is made for more tire clearance.. no big deal.
Hey dan, i have a question, i have a cherokee 2000 4.0, 6c, 2wd
And i have a big problem, the proble is the stearing wheel its hard as a rock and it has stearing wheel liquid, i hope you know something about it please help :(
your steering box could be bad.
I have ZJ that shakes a 55 or more MPH what could be the issue?
55 is usually tires not balanced
At 19: 38 you put the control arm on the right backwards the original one was bowed to the inside the new one is bowed to the outside . Don't know if it will hurt anything ?
Hey man I have a 2002 and I can't get that darn bushing out! Can't continue with the build!
Hi Dan, overall do you find the original moar parts are way better than aftermarket? Seems the bushing on aftermarket (moon,Mevotch, especially dorman) don’t last as long.
Stick to OEM as much as possible, theyre much better and not made in china!
Love your videos but what's up with that project wreckJ?
coming soon! filming in progress 💪
Inspirational. How many miles on the WJ when you changed the bushings? Thumb up for the video, and I'm really liking your Dewalt XR impact. I need one.
170k!! They were beyond bad
Jeep tj bushings work no problem. No modifications
You installed the lowers the wrong way. Bend to the inside or your tires will rub them. Swap out those ate calipers for some akabonos
I know! I can believe I flipped em! 🤦♂️ Thanks for the heads up!
Do you have the axle bushing part number?
Yes, there's a link in the description of the vid
Nice.....!
Thank you! Cheers!
"thank you Jesus".. lol
Every single day
You installed the lower control arm backward. The holes on the side are supposed to face inwards.
Re: the broken control arm bolt. Using an impact driver to tighten them is asking for trouble
Installing with an impact isn't bad if you're not cranking on it. of course, hand torquing to spec is best.
Я менял саленблоки возле двора без ямы даже данкрат не нужен, только на мосту немного сложновато и то если условий нет
I wish you would have given the axle bushings part number and where to get it. Otherwise a dodge specific. Thanks
The amazon link is in the video description