IRO WJ 4" Long front and rear. - I was hearing knock from the front that I couldn't figure out. I kept checking, but everything felt tight. It would knock when I first hit a bump, then nothing for the rest of the bumps. Finnaly found the bushing poped out this AM while test fitting the new Method 703's. 😃 I installed a new OEM bushing, when I installed the lift, like you I was surprised to see it pulled out of the seat. I got 2 new aftermarket bushings one for now a the other for later, but now that I know what the problem is, I'll be calling IRO in the AM. Note on the Method 703's. The +25 offset looks like its going to fit the WJ pretty good. The valve stem is in a much better place than the 0 offset. I sent the 0 offset wheels back. Thank you so much!
We could all use a "toot" around town in the WJ, we'd love to hear the purr of it's engine, the hum of it's tires, and have the chance to proudly look down upon somebody in Avoca as they ask "How's the air up there".
I had a nice problem for you this weekend in my WJ! Started with a no crank, no start on Friday. Replaced the battery, tested the alternator & starter, and still got nothing. Ended up taking the positive battery terminal apart, cleaning it with baking soda & water, and put it back together. My WJ started right up after that! So thanks for posting updates on this channel! It's helping people like little old me to stay on the road! Thanks Eric!
A few things, 1. Factory OEM parts are often not heavy-duty enough for bastardized lifted off-road rock hopping, mud running, out to have fun and conquer obstacles suspensions. 2. If you still have the front end 'clunk' first check the drag link mounts for 'ovaled' worn out holes. They may be drilled out and a patch welded in place, then redrilled the proper size, or do that and then weld a reinforcement plate, or heavy fender washers for additional strength because the OEM steel was not heavy enough. 3. I know that you have a fetish for OEM specs but sometimes you need to get lifted and sometimes front ends 'Bubba Tight'. 4. I don't know if you mentioned it but long arms have generally (almost always) better road manners. Raising the center of gravity and very heavy 10 ply Load Range E oversized tires do not require much front end misalignment to turn your beast into a carnival ride. Get the offset ball joints and make sure your drag link is firmly seated. 5. Adjusting the track bar and long arm length will get your wheels properly centered, you really do not want to trim the metal behind the wheels if you can avoid it. 6. Get a quality heavy weight vinyl sign made for the WJ and throw a toolbox in the back. An off-road vehicle that offers service at Jeep shindigs is a legitimate business and advertising expense as well as all your RUclips video expenses can be chalked up to advertising if your business has increased. -Just sayin'...
Texas fan for a quick weather report. Last 3 days its been t-shirts and sunglasses. Great time to be wrenching on airplanes that are stuck outside. Time for a nice drink with some sort umbrella in it. Enjoy your cold and snow. BTW, a lot of what you do (tips and tricks) translates well to aviation. The only big difference, I can't ever be wrong.
Little tip on bushing and ball joint type installs. Leave them in freezer overnight or you can use liquid nitrogen and bring them up to acceptable install temp.
...and for that reason I do NOT screw with the suspension on my trucks. I maintain it only, bushings, ball joints and alignment only when necessary. Ride quality and comfort are more important to me than looking cool.
@@mitchvankesteren6771 - LOL. I suppose. But my truck costs too much to be out there trashing it by mudding and off-roading. The 4wd is to get me out of a pinch in case I find myself in a tough spot. It stays on the pavement whenever possible.
That will be a nice upgrade. No more clunking or worries. Since your already upside down on this project you might as well go ahead and get the lockers. Then in the Spring we want to see it flex. :)
😁 Yeah these projects always seem to have a way of getting upside-down. It's going to be muddy out there on it's next excursion! So much thawing, freezing, snowing & raining up here lately ...
yes it does, metal contracts when cool, and expands the hotter it gets, alot of press fit can be accomplished with out a press using this technique, either heating up the female, or cooling down the male.
If you ever have problems with that I believe OTC ball joint press, I bought the snapon for $800 beans and man you can throw away any other ball joint press! It’s an awesome tool.
I'd be willing to bet, since that truck came out of the South, that bushing was a bit harder and dryer than it should have been ... and one good articulation out back, and that was it. Up here, our metal doesn't last long ... but down in the salt-free, warmer climates, their rubber doesn't last long (Phoenix is REAL bad for that - older cars will have no window or door seals left). The heat just bakes the stuff stiff. Wish OEM's would engineer stuff like that replacement bushing. Now that's a well-engineered part, at least from where I'm sitting. Of course, they'd charge $100 each or more for a replacement .. IF it would ever fail. Ain't it great how you can't even park a vehicle up here without it rusting? Rotors are the first to go, then slowly, everything else. One of the joys of living in the Northeastern USA. Well, glad you got that taken care of. Hope you share some video footage of that Poker Run! Either way, have fun! 😎🍻
No Eric installed a brand new OEM bushing when he installed the kit so it wasn't the bushing in it from when it was a southern vehicle the new bushing didn't even last 100 miles.
If you would not be so far, you would be the one I would totaly trust with my car repairs. I normaly do all my repairs / maintenance but I am getting older ( and lazy ) Keep up thèse interesting video's.
I made a hyme joint adapter that goes to the stock bushing into a hyme joint. Had to do this on my jeep also cause the articulation causes too much stress on the Bush and kept breaking the center out. I didn't know about the iroc Bush at the time.
if ya whack that with a hammer under pressure, it skips in just like when youre pressing them out. I ASSUME because ive never used that exact part but it has worked well for me in the past on other applications.
With the oem bushings.... if you tighten the bolts with the suspension in droop it'll tear the bushings at ride height. Keeps it under constant tension unless it's all full droop where you tightened it
Don't blame the country of origin for that bushing! I had a '89 Cherokee Pioneer that I had a add a leaf in back, pucks up front, no sway bars and 31s on. I abused the loving hell out of that poor thing...I was doing control arm bushing in the front end of it regularly. And on the odd change I replaced the whole control arm...all four of them. Them Jeeps are hard on bushings off road...then again with no sway bars I had insane flex and even without lockers I could aim it and go anywhere...I miss it.
Great to see the WJ again. Was wondering what happened to it after the alignment issue you were having in the last video. I guess you got that resolved somehow.
As a former Chrysler gold certified tech I have never had to replace one of those bushings. Might have a little to do with me living in TX though. Great video can't wait to see you climbing some mountains.
I must have missed the part where you corrected some drive line vibration which got worse when you increased the caster to 4 degrees. Were you ever able to get that handled?
I hope the bolt for the new bushing set up is an upgrade. Without any cushion from the "bushin," a stock bolt will possibly fatigue and break. Also, washers on the outside of the 3rd arm would spread the load. A grade 8 or 9 bolt and washers, and a compression fit nut would do the job. Have fun.
Great series Eric.... I'm just concerned that in two years of your New York salt, that beautifully clean, rust free Jeep will become crustified beyond hope... I really think you ought to just pack it up and move out to the Colorado mountains where the old Jeep can have a long, productive rust free life and our mountain folks can finally have a skilled and trustworthy "techmech" to bring our vehicles to;) Cheers!!
Eric, I just love seeing your work on your own project and see that you come across the same difficulties we average DIYers have to combat. Changed the CV axle on my wife's 99Accord EXL drivers side and it was a bear getting it out of the tranny. With some help and pointers fromDave at Big Dog 50001, I was finally successful. Lying on your back fighting things called for a hot cup of coffee and the next day it just popped right. The wonder of walking away from something. Glad to see your project back on the lift ❤️️ call it a sleeve. Guess the SMA coffee mug did the magic. Eric any decals. hate pestering you.👍
I think it might be because the original bushing wasn't meant to hold the weight of the vehicle in that fashion, being that it's a 3 link suspension instead of 4 link. It held double the load and double the flex it was meant to hold basically, as it's pal on the passenger side just takes it easy.
I believe the outer shell is called a sleeve. Have you ever done axle pivot bushings and/or radius arm bushings on a 2 wheel drive 93-97 Ford Ranger? They're next on the list for my 94 Ranger V-8 project truck. I have Moog bushings but I bought Dorman radius arms since both of my originals have rust pin holes where our Ohio winters took their toll. The shock mount studs are also both broken off from someone going gonzo years ago trying to replace the front shocks.
Hey there Mr. O. Walter again. Future reference, you can get them to fit mo better if you put them in the freezer before installing. You may or may not have to put a VERY LITTLE HEAT on the bracket. Worked for me many times in the past. As always, thanks and keep em coming.
"Dear Mr. O We here at the one great American MOPAR, now owned by the only car company that makes its customers want to commit seppuku, take your satisfaction seriously." I don't know why that popped in my head, but I thought I would share it as it gave me a chuckle...
It stands to reason that breaking vehicles is COSTLY....lololol I love to see the facial expressions of the guys that go mudding here. One minute they are all smiles and the next they are scratching their heads while holding a Pabst. The hobby isn't cheap, that's for sure.
DUH I can beat on the bushing on that side instead of the 1/16 of an inch I have on the other side like a lot of other videos were suggesting. I have a stock height XJ (well minus any sagging from wear) but I have the axle pulled which makes it a lot easier to do this
What did you heat up the rear end casing there and I just put that bushing in the freezer for a little bit It can’t be a .005 Press fit I don’t know it’s just a thought
@@dewyatt Like this? -- "It's not cool to make a joke out of your girlfriend's monthly flow....... PERIOD!!!" Now *THAT'S* some punctuation, right there.
The bigger blob the better the job! Haha My boss always says you can never use to much grease! That looks like a stout bushing and don’t think you will have another problem.
I think that's a stock bushing for a stock WJ. You have aftermarket suspension parts which make the travel of your axles greater than they would be at stock.
A few thoughts from a full time jeeper here. I notice you have quik disconnect sway bar links, and the ONLY down side to switching to that style of center joint you just installed is....if you over articulate , it breaks....where as the old rubber joint just smooshes. Keeping in mind that top bars only job is to keep axle from rolling forward or back, you can also get a track bar with a rotating end, allowing the use of a much stronger bushing. HOWEVER.....(lol ) your using a non trussed dana 30, so with a center track bar, your axle tubes are prob going to rotate in the center section......just before the axle breaks. Are those chrome alloy upgrades ? ( just empty every pocket )
Can't wait for the next video but it's the end of April and there's no more vids in this playlist! I love seeing what my Jeep could have been if it wasn't so crusty underneath, and if I had money lol. My rear control arm tabs are rusting away as we speak and it's so worn out back there and can move the bushing up and down with 2 fingers and it clunks like mad. Pretty sure I need to scrap the poor thing before doing some major welding jobs.... SOUTHERN SUBARU HERE I COME
@@izzynutz2000 The guts are fully serviceable/replaceable. If it's kept greased, the sleeve should live for a long time before rusting away from the outside in.
I always try to tell folks - the moment you deviate from OEM stock, you WILL have problems. :) That being said, I've never been able to leave any of my personal vehicles stock at all!!
Thanks for taking us along on the build. Wife has a Jeep Sahara 5 speed manual love it. Thanks Eric For all the time and effort you and family give. God bless.
Today South Main Auto Repair got the official seal of approval from Big Clive as well. I guess quality content always attracts attention . I wonder if there are any other Project Binky fans here?
Just subbed, like this channel. However I must say you're killin me with those disconnects at the axle mount, time for a single tab in place of the factory mount.
I love your WJ Project. I have a 2000 WJ Right hand drive, Australia. I do many things watching your videos. I was just wondering that will you do any more videos on WJ? Such as, steering parts, Front drive-line upgrades or changes or some engine upgrades. Thanks
I never use a impact on my ball joint press, I've always used a ratchet for removing or installing anything. A person needs that feedback on whats happening.
Those ball joint presses are made for use with a impact if you want to use hand tools for everything more power to you the key to Air Tools are battery powered tools is trigger control to snug it up then come in with torque wrenches or whatever to make the final tightness I prefer power tools makes it easier on your body it’s all about using your noodle and common sense
The more you hop around RUclips, the more you have to appreciate Eric O's cinematography. He must put a huge amount of work into his products.
Wow! - the whole procedure completed without the use of a scan tool !!!
Twig you need the scanner to reset the bushing ecu 😂
Or Brakekleen lol
Or BIG NASTY.
also no brake fluid
brake clean my bad
IRO WJ 4" Long front and rear. - I was hearing knock from the front that I couldn't figure out. I kept checking, but everything felt tight. It would knock when I first hit a bump, then nothing for the rest of the bumps. Finnaly found the bushing poped out this AM while test fitting the new Method 703's. 😃
I installed a new OEM bushing, when I installed the lift, like you I was surprised to see it pulled out of the seat. I got 2 new aftermarket bushings one for now a the other for later, but now that I know what the problem is, I'll be calling IRO in the AM.
Note on the Method 703's. The +25 offset looks like its going to fit the WJ pretty good. The valve stem is in a much better place than the 0 offset. I sent the 0 offset wheels back.
Thank you so much!
We could all use a "toot" around town in the WJ, we'd love to hear the purr of it's engine, the hum of it's tires, and have the chance to proudly look down upon somebody in Avoca as they ask "How's the air up there".
I had a nice problem for you this weekend in my WJ! Started with a no crank, no start on Friday. Replaced the battery, tested the alternator & starter, and still got nothing. Ended up taking the positive battery terminal apart, cleaning it with baking soda & water, and put it back together. My WJ started right up after that! So thanks for posting updates on this channel! It's helping people like little old me to stay on the road!
Thanks Eric!
A few things, 1. Factory OEM parts are often not heavy-duty enough for bastardized lifted off-road rock hopping, mud running, out to have fun and conquer obstacles suspensions. 2. If you still have the front end 'clunk' first check the drag link mounts for 'ovaled' worn out holes. They may be drilled out and a patch welded in place, then redrilled the proper size, or do that and then weld a reinforcement plate, or heavy fender washers for additional strength because the OEM steel was not heavy enough. 3. I know that you have a fetish for OEM specs but sometimes you need to get lifted and sometimes front ends 'Bubba Tight'. 4. I don't know if you mentioned it but long arms have generally (almost always) better road manners. Raising the center of gravity and very heavy 10 ply Load Range E oversized tires do not require much front end misalignment to turn your beast into a carnival ride. Get the offset ball joints and make sure your drag link is firmly seated. 5. Adjusting the track bar and long arm length will get your wheels properly centered, you really do not want to trim the metal behind the wheels if you can avoid it. 6. Get a quality heavy weight vinyl sign made for the WJ and throw a toolbox in the back. An off-road vehicle that offers service at Jeep shindigs is a legitimate business and advertising expense as well as all your RUclips video expenses can be chalked up to advertising if your business has increased. -Just sayin'...
Texas fan for a quick weather report. Last 3 days its been t-shirts and sunglasses. Great time to be wrenching on airplanes that are stuck outside. Time for a nice drink with some sort umbrella in it. Enjoy your cold and snow. BTW, a lot of what you do (tips and tricks) translates well to aviation. The only big difference, I can't ever be wrong.
Little tip on bushing and ball joint type installs. Leave them in freezer overnight or you can use liquid nitrogen and bring them up to acceptable install temp.
Lifted trucks look cool, but the secondary complications can be a real headache.
...and for that reason I do NOT screw with the suspension on my trucks. I maintain it only, bushings, ball joints and alignment only when necessary. Ride quality and comfort are more important to me than looking cool.
That is great guys but obviously he wheels this rig it is all about applications and actually using the rig for purpose.😉
@@robertgantry2118 Dudes already rocking a minivan.
@@robertgantry2118 until you high center on something or swamp your motor.. then you’ll wish you had one lol
@@mitchvankesteren6771 - LOL. I suppose. But my truck costs too much to be out there trashing it by mudding and off-roading. The 4wd is to get me out of a pinch in case I find myself in a tough spot. It stays on the pavement whenever possible.
Can’t believe anyone would give your videos a thumbs down! Really people come on! Eric is at the top of his game!!
Use the torch, Luke
Reading directions before proceeding with installation seems like a good idea.
That will be a nice upgrade. No more clunking or worries. Since your already upside down on this project you might as well go ahead and get the lockers. Then in the Spring we want to see it flex. :)
😁 Yeah these projects always seem to have a way of getting upside-down.
It's going to be muddy out there on it's next excursion! So much thawing, freezing, snowing & raining up here lately ...
Typical nocar junk.
That company does seem to make some quality products. Well done. Thanks Dr. O!
"Beat it around the house". Don't let Mrs. O catch ya!
Suggestion, freeze the bushing the day before, should slide right in.
........and heat up that loop with the torch.
Does it work? I hear that before
yes it does, metal contracts when cool, and expands the hotter it gets, alot of press fit can be accomplished with out a press using this technique, either heating up the female, or cooling down the male.
great tip
Yoooo, thanks for the tip.
If you ever have problems with that I believe OTC ball joint press, I bought the snapon for $800 beans and man you can throw away any other ball joint press! It’s an awesome tool.
Impressed you actually read instructions
I'd be willing to bet, since that truck came out of the South, that bushing was a bit harder and dryer than it should have been ... and one good articulation out back, and that was it. Up here, our metal doesn't last long ... but down in the salt-free, warmer climates, their rubber doesn't last long (Phoenix is REAL bad for that - older cars will have no window or door seals left). The heat just bakes the stuff stiff.
Wish OEM's would engineer stuff like that replacement bushing. Now that's a well-engineered part, at least from where I'm sitting. Of course, they'd charge $100 each or more for a replacement .. IF it would ever fail.
Ain't it great how you can't even park a vehicle up here without it rusting? Rotors are the first to go, then slowly, everything else. One of the joys of living in the Northeastern USA. Well, glad you got that taken care of. Hope you share some video footage of that Poker Run! Either way, have fun! 😎🍻
No Eric installed a brand new OEM bushing when he installed the kit so it wasn't the bushing in it from when it was a southern vehicle the new bushing didn't even last 100 miles.
If you would not be so far, you would be the one I would totaly trust with my car repairs. I normaly do all my repairs / maintenance but I am getting older ( and lazy ) Keep up thèse interesting video's.
I made a hyme joint adapter that goes to the stock bushing into a hyme joint. Had to do this on my jeep also cause the articulation causes too much stress on the Bush and kept breaking the center out. I didn't know about the iroc Bush at the time.
Awesome Video Mr. O, Please more "W-J" Video's...… Thanks for all the Great Content.
if ya whack that with a hammer under pressure, it skips in just like when youre pressing them out. I ASSUME because ive never used that exact part but it has worked well for me in the past on other applications.
Just watched the Jeep WJ project (nice find BTW). Glad to see you're enjoying it - Lord knows you've earned it. Hope Mrs O is excited about it too!
Este pastor habla mucho pero tiene la razón en todo lo q dise me gusta oírlo por q dise en sus platicas muchas verdades
With the oem bushings.... if you tighten the bolts with the suspension in droop it'll tear the bushings at ride height. Keeps it under constant tension unless it's all full droop where you tightened it
Don't blame the country of origin for that bushing! I had a '89 Cherokee Pioneer that I had a add a leaf in back, pucks up front, no sway bars and 31s on. I abused the loving hell out of that poor thing...I was doing control arm bushing in the front end of it regularly. And on the odd change I replaced the whole control arm...all four of them. Them Jeeps are hard on bushings off road...then again with no sway bars I had insane flex and even without lockers I could aim it and go anywhere...I miss it.
That’s a pretty cool setup. Pretty much a heim joint conversion.
Very cool. Essentially a Heim joint. That should do the job.
Great to see the WJ again. Was wondering what happened to it after the alignment issue you were having in the last video. I guess you got that resolved somehow.
As a former Chrysler gold certified tech I have never had to replace one of those bushings. Might have a little to do with me living in TX though. Great video can't wait to see you climbing some mountains.
Me Jeep hit around 275k miles before it needed them. Maybe that's why you weren't seeing them needing replacemt.
thx for sharing Mr. O .always nice to see a project come to life, cheers !
Thanx! Just ordered my IRO lift kit
I must have missed the part where you corrected some drive line vibration which got worse when you increased the caster to 4 degrees. Were you ever able to get that handled?
Heat and freeze method works wonders for the sleeve
I hope the bolt for the new bushing set up is an upgrade. Without any cushion from the "bushin," a stock bolt will possibly fatigue and break. Also, washers on the outside of the 3rd arm would spread the load. A grade 8 or 9 bolt and washers, and a compression fit nut would do the job. Have fun.
Great series Eric.... I'm just concerned that in two years of your New York salt, that beautifully clean, rust free Jeep will become crustified beyond hope... I really think you ought to just pack it up and move out to the Colorado mountains where the old Jeep can have a long, productive rust free life and our mountain folks can finally have a skilled and trustworthy "techmech" to bring our vehicles to;)
Cheers!!
Eric,
The other Eric would have told you to weld that in. Love to see some video of you DRIVING it!
SMA#1
God bless
Paul
that new bush looks crazy, getting ready to do mine, thanks for the vid
Jeep freak here. Love the Jeep videos!
Nice fix. Appears to be way more substantial than the OEM
Eric, I just love seeing your work on your own project and see that you come across the same difficulties we average DIYers have to combat. Changed the CV axle on my wife's 99Accord EXL drivers side and it was a bear getting it out of the tranny. With some help and pointers fromDave at Big Dog 50001, I was finally successful. Lying on your back fighting things called for a hot cup of coffee and the next day it just popped right. The wonder of walking away from something. Glad to see your project back on the lift ❤️️ call it a sleeve. Guess the SMA coffee mug did the magic. Eric any decals. hate pestering you.👍
I guess the ol' dime dime quarter dollar was just too much for it; like you said, hard tellin' not knowin'.
Thanks for the effort, Mr. O.
wow. i love the sawzall idea. wish i would have thought of that earlier.
Please keep us posted on how it all works out !!!
Kaye Wortman seriously I’m curious also
I think it might be because the original bushing wasn't meant to hold the weight of the vehicle in that fashion, being that it's a 3 link suspension instead of 4 link. It held double the load and double the flex it was meant to hold basically, as it's pal on the passenger side just takes it easy.
another great vid..we need to see you off roading it when you can..thanks
Looking good, Eric.
I believe the outer shell is called a sleeve. Have you ever done axle pivot bushings and/or radius arm bushings on a 2 wheel drive 93-97 Ford Ranger? They're next on the list for my 94 Ranger V-8 project truck. I have Moog bushings but I bought Dorman radius arms since both of my originals have rust pin holes where our Ohio winters took their toll. The shock mount studs are also both broken off from someone going gonzo years ago trying to replace the front shocks.
Get er done and have some fun! ☺️
Wow! You have been working on this on and off since July !
I wanted to go to sleep but Eric posted a new video... yeeeeeeas
11:30 shoutout to louis !!
Great upgrade Eric O
Hey there Mr. O. Walter again. Future reference, you can get them to fit mo better if you put them in the freezer before installing. You may or may not have to put a VERY LITTLE HEAT on the bracket. Worked for me many times in the past. As always, thanks and keep em coming.
"Dear Mr. O We here at the one great American MOPAR, now owned by the only car company that makes its customers want to commit seppuku, take your satisfaction seriously."
I don't know why that popped in my head, but I thought I would share it as it gave me a chuckle...
How is those checks from Fiat treating you?
It stands to reason that breaking vehicles is COSTLY....lololol I love to see the facial expressions of the guys that go mudding here. One minute they are all smiles and the next they are scratching their heads while holding a Pabst. The hobby isn't cheap, that's for sure.
Old machinist's trick, stick the bushing in the freezer for a few hours. It will shrink enough to be inserted easily.
DUH I can beat on the bushing on that side instead of the 1/16 of an inch I have on the other side like a lot of other videos were suggesting. I have a stock height XJ (well minus any sagging from wear) but I have the axle pulled which makes it a lot easier to do this
Nice job Dr E. O.
What did you heat up the rear end casing there and I just put that bushing in the freezer for a little bit It can’t be a .005 Press fit I don’t know it’s just a thought
Punctuation, please!
@@dewyatt Like this? -- "It's not cool to make a joke out of your girlfriend's monthly flow.......
PERIOD!!!"
Now *THAT'S* some punctuation, right there.
takes us on a spin in that thing
Great job, a little involved though, but hey seems like a fun thing to do.
Great job Eric !!
Like always you make everything look so easy. Great Video Mr O
The bigger blob the better the job! Haha My boss always says you can never use to much grease! That looks like a stout bushing and don’t think you will have another problem.
I think that's a stock bushing for a stock WJ. You have aftermarket suspension parts which make the travel of your axles greater than they would be at stock.
Hey Eric could you do a recent video about the WJ? I bought one that has a 3” IRO benchmark lift going to put a 4 “ short arm lift on soon with 33s.
Another good how to fix things the right way
That bushing looks just like the lower shock bushings on my 06' Dakota.
How come this series ended here? What did I miss? Stolen , wrote off?
Thanks Mr O! Another great vid.
Don't forget to program the new part with the ECM and register it so ya get free updates.
A few thoughts from a full time jeeper here. I notice you have quik disconnect sway bar links, and the ONLY down side to switching to that style of center joint you just installed is....if you over articulate , it breaks....where as the old rubber joint just smooshes. Keeping in mind that top bars only job is to keep axle from rolling forward or back, you can also get a track bar with a rotating end, allowing the use of a much stronger bushing. HOWEVER.....(lol ) your using a non trussed dana 30, so with a center track bar, your axle tubes are prob going to rotate in the center section......just before the axle breaks. Are those chrome alloy upgrades ? ( just empty every pocket )
Can't wait for the next video but it's the end of April and there's no more vids in this playlist! I love seeing what my Jeep could have been if it wasn't so crusty underneath, and if I had money lol. My rear control arm tabs are rusting away as we speak and it's so worn out back there and can move the bushing up and down with 2 fingers and it clunks like mad. Pretty sure I need to scrap the poor thing before doing some major welding jobs.... SOUTHERN SUBARU HERE I COME
Basically, it is a Heim joint that yu assemble in place. Should work very well !
Got a solution for the "death wobble" ?
"I see in the instructions that you can weld them in"
EricTheCarGuy : hmmmmmmm
You would have to convince me at these parts would be around for a lifetime before I would weld it in
@@izzynutz2000 The guts are fully serviceable/replaceable. If it's kept greased, the sleeve should live for a long time before rusting away from the outside in.
More vids on the WJ and it's lift, please =)
How about the right side, that one is a little different.
Mine is getting bad and I'd like to see what you come up with to pull it out.
I always try to tell folks - the moment you deviate from OEM stock, you WILL have problems. :) That being said, I've never been able to leave any of my personal vehicles stock at all!!
Would you not ensure that the tube slips inside the cup before you start the pressing process
Omg. 2-3 days cooling @-18 and some grease.
Without any problems put in
Thanks for taking us along on the build. Wife has a Jeep Sahara 5 speed manual love it.
Thanks Eric For all the time and effort you and family give. God bless.
What ?. No scope usage. Ivan is probably in tears watching this video.
I like the AvE @ 11:32 😆
Today South Main Auto Repair got the official seal of approval from Big Clive as well. I guess quality content always attracts attention . I wonder if there are any other Project Binky fans here?
omg yes - Binky: the never-ending project. :-D
Wow! OE... but still, I'd expect more out of them.
Quality in parts is not what it used to be.... period.
I sure would have liked your opinion after a test drive.
Are you planning on posting any wheeling videos???
Thanks bro.
Does make it easier when you have the right tools to install
Just subbed, like this channel. However I must say you're killin me with those disconnects at the axle mount, time for a single tab in place of the factory mount.
I love your WJ Project. I have a 2000 WJ Right hand drive, Australia. I do many things watching your videos. I was just wondering that will you do any more videos on WJ? Such as, steering parts, Front drive-line upgrades or changes or some engine upgrades. Thanks
Good job
@ 7:32, that is my wifes motto.
I never use a impact on my ball joint press, I've always used a ratchet for removing or installing anything. A person needs that feedback on whats happening.
Those ball joint presses are made for use with a impact if you want to use hand tools for everything more power to you the key to Air Tools are battery powered tools is trigger control to snug it up then come in with torque wrenches or whatever to make the final tightness I prefer power tools makes it easier on your body it’s all about using your noodle and common sense
A job well done thanks for the video.
Wait a minute no brake clean? lol Good job Mr. O.
when that bushing goes ,it going to be funny alen bolts what a mess waiting to happen
Great job again like always A+
How is the wj now?