Great video, thanks. I learned something unexpected, I’ve always chosen the number of bridges and than moved them to where I wanted them. I did not know you could click “edit bridges” and than just clicked where I wanted them………I wish I had access to quality plywood like you have in this video. Thanks again.
Great Video that I knew absolutely nothing about that website & I have wasted so much time & money on trying to get those finger joints to come out perfectly whenever I want to switch material thicknesses. Man I just wish it would do the lids, but truthfully the lids won’t be the problem anyways cause after I glue the box up I just take my trusty calipers & measure!! 📏 None the less I greatly appreciate you sharing & showing the info in this video! God I’m already itching for it to be mornings time so I can fire up my computer & CNC & give this a try! I won’t be sleeping well tonight!! Just Greatness!! 👍 💯 🎯
As usual, terrific information!! I was curious if that program included an option for making grooves that would enable trays for small parts. I'm thinking for an storing game pieces so you can put your games away sorted. The box joints would hold the overall box together with an array of smaller compartments...
@@BigJeff19999 thank you Sorry that program won’t do what you are asking for I would create a dado for the compartments then slide the dividers in and out at what ever size cubbys you need for a particular piece
The T slots are used for bolts and nuts. The nut goes into the t section with the bolt thru a hole in the bottom. I have used this type of connection on homemade 3D printers.
T slots are used for slides. Something you and I would never use most likely, but the t part slides in the groove and the straight edge side sticks out and has a bearing to ride on.
@@davidcochran934 Yes And since I uploaded this I have learned if you lie to the program and tell it your stock is slightly larger than it really is you can loosen or tighten the joints as needed or preferred
Vernon, you never fail to amaze me. I am so glad you produced this video. I don't need any boxes just now, but I plan to make just one to see how it turns out and have it ready to remind me next time I need a box. One thing, will this work for drawer boxes in 1/2" ply? If so making cabinet drawers just got easy. Is there a way to cut the bottoms from a different thickness?
Thanks Jim You’re welcome Yes you can do up to 1/2” Unfortunately no the software will only work with uniform thickness But you could omit the bottom and cut one out of whatever size you want and put a dado inside the parts before assembly Like traditional drawers
Thanks for the website to make boxes. Tried one today. Man they fit tight together! Had to use a hammer and 2 sides cracked from it. Can i change that?
I agree with you all about how it use t tracks but how does T track/Slots figure into box making? Maybe it's an idea that I need a few barley pops to figure out but for me t tracks are for hold downs and jigs
@Hinkleshop Great video I tried it today on my Onefinity and it cut great but the fit was quite tight. I had to use a mallet to get them together. I was using a 1/4 in downcut bit and bits and set it up just like you did. Any ideas on what to adjust in Carveco or should I slightly increase the router bit diameter?
Try adding.02 to the stock size in maker case then enter the actual size of your stock in Carveco that will give you a little space for a looser fit Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the video
I'm not sure, but it's possible there was a mistake in this video. The option in Makercase is labelled "router bit diameter" and he enters in 0.125 which would be 1/8th, not sure why he says to use half the bit diameter.
This was fantastic! Do you know if the software can create an offset on the bottom for something like Blum concealed drawer slides? If not, how would you suggest accounting for that in Carveco? Would that require a major redesign? Thanks!
@@Mr.GucciClass1A thank you I think it would require redesigning of you use tabs But if you did flat sides you could lengthen or shorten the sides as needed to create the space needed for the hinge The program uses the thickness of the stock for all cut calculations so thats why tabs would be tough
@@Hinkleshop Thanks! I think the software is a great option. If the software developer found a way to include the solution to my question, it would be worth a pro-paid version of the software. Thanks for sharing this. I had never seen anyone post anything about it, and I think it's a huge game-changer! 👍
Just made a box yesterday with maker case. How did you know that the bit diameter was the actual radius of the bit? It says , I think to put in the bit diameter......
That’s interesting I never noticed that before! I will have to make a box with the diameter of the bit entered instead of radius and see what works best up to this point I had always put in the radius of the bit
@@beverlyjackson7976 hi Beverly maker case is not a downloadable program it is simply a website pin the website to your bar for easy use, but you will have to open it each time you want to start a new project
A couple things to remember make sure the work area when you start the project is larger than the length of the pieces layed in a line or carveco will adjust the import to match stock size and be sure to run an outside tool path
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Thank you very much for the explanation. Cheers!
You’re welcome thanks for watching
Great video, thanks. I learned something unexpected, I’ve always chosen the number of bridges and than moved them to where I wanted them. I did not know you could click “edit bridges” and than just clicked where I wanted them………I wish I had access to quality plywood like you have in this video. Thanks again.
You’re welcome glad it helped
T slots for nuts and bolts. Used with acrylic typically.
This is awesome. I had no idea about this site, man I'm so thankful you shared this!
You’re welcome! Its a great way to make cubby boxes for doo dads in the shop
Awesome video Brother! I have got to try this with the Altmill! Great tip on bridge placement!!
I have a shapeoko 4 xxl and soon as I seen this I came down to try it out I think it’s gonna work thanks for the video
@@nickharvey5377 you’re welcome thanks for watching
Great Video that I knew absolutely nothing about that website & I have wasted so much time & money on trying to get those finger joints to come out perfectly whenever I want to switch material thicknesses. Man I just wish it would do the lids, but truthfully the lids won’t be the problem anyways cause after I glue the box up I just take my trusty calipers & measure!! 📏
None the less I greatly appreciate you sharing & showing the info in this video! God I’m already itching for it to be mornings time so I can fire up my computer & CNC & give this a try! I won’t be sleeping well tonight!!
Just Greatness!! 👍 💯 🎯
Actually never mind…. The "closed boxes" setting will do the lids!! Thanks again for this video & happy box making!!
💯 🎯
@@PiercesPerfectPieces you’re welcome thanks for watching
As usual, terrific information!! I was curious if that program included an option for making grooves that would enable trays for small parts.
I'm thinking for an storing game pieces so you can put your games away sorted. The box joints would hold the overall box together with an array of smaller compartments...
@@BigJeff19999 thank you
Sorry that program won’t do what you are asking for
I would create a dado for the compartments then slide the dividers in and out at what ever size cubbys you need for a particular piece
Great video Thanks for sharing
The T slots are used for bolts and nuts. The nut goes into the t section with the bolt thru a hole in the bottom. I have used this type of connection on homemade 3D printers.
Makes perfect sense. Thanks
Thank you I couldn’t get my head wrapped around how you would use a t in box making
T slots are used for slides. Something you and I would never use most likely, but the t part slides in the groove and the straight edge side sticks out and has a bearing to ride on.
Thanks for the info!
Great video. Have you tried with thicker material?
@@davidcochran934
Yes
And since I uploaded this I have learned if you lie to the program and tell it your stock is slightly larger than it really is you can loosen or tighten the joints as needed or preferred
Vernon, you never fail to amaze me. I am so glad you produced this video. I don't need any boxes just now, but I plan to make just one to see how it turns out and have it ready to remind me next time I need a box. One thing, will this work for drawer boxes in 1/2" ply? If so making cabinet drawers just got easy. Is there a way to cut the bottoms from a different thickness?
Thanks Jim
You’re welcome
Yes you can do up to 1/2”
Unfortunately no the software will only work with uniform thickness
But you could omit the bottom and cut one out of whatever size you want and put a dado inside the parts before assembly
Like traditional drawers
Nice video 👍
Thanks James
Inside dimensions are important if you're making a box to fit something specific.
@@Aarononautos very good point thank you!
Wow neat! Thanks
You’re welcome thanks for watching
@@Hinkleshop of course :)
The bottom t slots are probably used for under mount drawer slides
Thats a great thought thank you
Thanks for the website to make boxes. Tried one today. Man they fit tight together! Had to use a hammer and 2 sides cracked from it. Can i change that?
Yes lie to the program tell it your stock is slightly larger than actual and it will loosen the joints
@Hinkleshop i had the stock at .5 inch and actual was .48 inch. Shouldnt that have done the same thing?
Yes it should have thats how I loosen the joints
@@Hinkleshop ok thanks ill have to try another
I agree with you all about how it use t tracks but how does T track/Slots figure into box making? Maybe it's an idea that I need a few barley pops to figure out but for me t tracks are for hold downs and jigs
I agree 👍
@Hinkleshop Great video I tried it today on my Onefinity and it cut great but the fit was quite tight. I had to use a mallet to get them together. I was using a 1/4 in downcut bit and bits and set it up just like you did. Any ideas on what to adjust in Carveco or should I slightly increase the router bit diameter?
Try adding.02 to the stock size in maker case then enter the actual size of your stock in Carveco that will give you a little space for a looser fit
Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the video
I'm not sure, but it's possible there was a mistake in this video. The option in Makercase is labelled "router bit diameter" and he enters in 0.125 which would be 1/8th, not sure why he says to use half the bit diameter.
@@cjleshThanks I tired again following the directions so I will try again with full bit size
Might be a dumb question but do you cut outside the line on the line or inside the line?
Thats not a dumb question thats a good one
The toolpath is outside
Thanks for watching
This was fantastic! Do you know if the software can create an offset on the bottom for something like Blum concealed drawer slides? If not, how would you suggest accounting for that in Carveco? Would that require a major redesign?
Thanks!
@@Mr.GucciClass1A thank you
I think it would require redesigning of you use tabs
But if you did flat sides you could lengthen or shorten the sides as needed to create the space needed for the hinge
The program uses the thickness of the stock for all cut calculations so thats why tabs would be tough
@@Hinkleshop Thanks! I think the software is a great option. If the software developer found a way to include the solution to my question, it would be worth a pro-paid version of the software. Thanks for sharing this. I had never seen anyone post anything about it, and I think it's a huge game-changer! 👍
@Mr.GucciClass1A you’re welcome thanks for watching
will this also work using vcarve pro?
I have never used v carve pro but I should think it would as long as it can download a DXF file you should be good
Thank you.
Just made a box yesterday with maker case. How did you know that the bit diameter was the actual radius of the bit? It says , I think to put in the bit diameter......
The radius is half the diameter of the bit
@@Hinkleshop but the program asks for the bit diameter
That’s interesting I never noticed that before!
I will have to make a box with the diameter of the bit entered instead of radius and see what works best up to this point I had always put in the radius of the bit
@@Hinkleshopif cutting outside the line I don't think the bit diameter would matter as long as the radius is half. Correct or no?
@garydube3627 thats correct
I am unable to download Maker Case why
@@beverlyjackson7976 hi Beverly maker case is not a downloadable program it is simply a website pin the website to your bar for easy use, but you will have to open it each time you want to start a new project
Thank you.
I'm having trouble with this method. Carveco doesn't want to play right with the imported vectors. Oh well
A couple things to remember make sure the work area when you start the project is larger than the length of the pieces layed in a line or carveco will adjust the import to match stock size and be sure to run an outside tool path
@@HinkleshopThanks. I think I figured it out.