Please note, this is not an ultimate fix for all cracking issues, it only covers one of the most frequent reasons. For a detailed guide please click here - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI) Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
Same here. I finished the build last night and the rear drivetrain runs sluggish and cracks when driven around. U-joints are fine. I really think the problem is in the rear drivetrain because running the front wheels goes fairly smooth. It's the rear wheels that are the problem. All the connections seem to be right, at first glance. Anyone got a fix or point in the right direction?
Great video. To all people who still have problems after this mod. Don't slide the u-joints all the way to the end of the axles. Let it be losen a little bit.The shaft will be restricted in it's movement If you slide the u joints all the way to the end of the shafts, which in turn will cause cracking noise and stop movement of the wheels. This solution together with the solution of racingbrick fixed my problem and the gearbox is running like a dream now.
Thank God for this video! I was A convinced I’d screwed up my first ever Lego model at the tender age of 41 and B virtually stripped it as far as I could thinking I’d reversed the difs... you’re right the instructions are wrong on the alignment of the universal joints... many thanks!
Thank you for this fix video. After final assembly, I didn't have a cracking issue but noticed the selectors didn't seem to do anything. Spent 20 minutes trying to do a minimal disassembly and noticed that one of the joints was off set. Normally I keep them in line, but not this time. Fixed and the issue was resolved. Thanks.
Guys, I’ve spent a lot of time trying to find out what was the issue that caused the cracking noise and I think that the most popular “mistake” is in the fake engine itself. Little 2:1:1 pieces that are rotated by the axle in the engine might not be placed perfectly and then it becomes much harder to rotate while touching the wrong fake cylinder (red one). And sometimes when it cracks, the engine stops working on any other speed. It is because of the dark bluish grey connectors between the seats (and near the + - sticker). They just get further from each other and don’t let the gears rotate properly.
I had the same clicking issue and was able to properly align the U-joints without any disassembly (I accessed them from under the vehicle and through the passenger side door). I no longer experience any clicking at all and it runs silently in neutral, as intended! Thank you for the helpful, informative video and for saving my build! :D
I have managed to solve the sticking wheel issue!! Took me a full strip down to find it. 1. Turn the vehicle upside down. 2. Look for the main gear on the rear differential. 3. Locate the small dark grey cog to the rear if the main diff gear. 4. Double check you have installed item "6261374" correctly page 495 of the manual. (Small grey + - o connector) Let me know if this solves your issue 😎🤙
Thank you very much for your videos. I had the tension build, cracking issue in Hi 3rd and 4th, official Lego directions were wrong! Adjusted my u joints as shown here, and problem solved! You rock dude!
If you still have issues I suggest to remove the body, then go through the whole drive train and double check everything as it is presented in this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html It is also possible to disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately by turning the gears manually. Here's a hint how can you remove the body in bigger pieces - facebook.com/Racingbrick/photos/a.642361079222005/1486442398147198/
Hello. Like your video very much. Just a short question. I have checked my U-joints and other stuff you proposed. And still have the same issue. Funny, when I put gear in R, all gears work perfectly without cracking sound (HI, LOW, all gears) and motor simulating cylinders movements. Only in D I have explained issues. Any comment on that? Thanks.
@@tom7956 I suggest to check this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html In R your gearbox is not involved, the fake engine is driven directly so hi/lo and the gears does nothing. I suggest to remove the body, disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately
I only have this issue when moving the defender forward in drive high or low, but when I move the defender backwards, even in drive high or low (or reverse - yes I know R bypasses) there are no cracks, albeit the pistons don't move completely smooth. Why is it cracking when my U joints are aligned?
I just finished stage one and found that when I spun one wheel the other was reversed. I reversed the differential multiple times without luck. I ended up tearing it apart. Right before attaching the gear box I tested the wheels and they spun the same way. After I attached it they were reversed. I've triple checked the gearbox. Do you know what's going on? I'm probably just going to continue.
That need to set UJ's correctly is very well known in motor engineering. Odd that Lego got one of them wrong. Well done for finding it and making this video. BobUK
Had an older manual, the 2 u-joints orientation was wrong, no clicking sound but pistons wouldn't run. aligned them per your recommendations and solved my issue. Thanks!
Great video - my model suffered both issues, but now running much better - thanks! Very informative generally on the universal joint alignment too, I had no idea that it mattered.
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié. ____ If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
Thanks for this video, along with alot of people i thought i had done some thing wrong during the build. It's just going to be a display piece so my mind is at ease knowing this was a common problem.
During my last 2 medicopter shift, I spent my freetime to build this set. It was so frustrating to hear this creepy noise. I started to search the web instantly, and found this video very soon. I did everything as it mentioned, but first, I didn't get a good result. Double checked everything, finally I found out, that a pin is a bit out of it's place. Took that back, than everything worked as it should be. Thx! A+
Thank you soooooo much. Great advice, it fixed the problem, I am really glad you made this video. Just finished bag 2, I really enjoyed construction but this little bit was frustrating. Well done!!
Thanks for the great video. I've just got this set and the instructions have been corrected. It shows the correct alignment of the universal joints as you suggest.
Wow I hate it when I hear this noise when I try to play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender, but thanks to this video I can now play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender in peace.
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI) Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
I made the Defender and looked carefully at all gears and orientation of the U-joints. No cracking noise when moving the Defender slow. At higher speed there is still cracking noise, despite I checked all your advised checkpoints.
I checked everything three times, reconnected the UJ at least ten times, tried every other advice, also I followed the instructions so close, it was not even fun building it. Now I still have that ******* cracking and I feel like Im going insane.. nothing helps, so I will have to take it all apart and build again... what a great thing to spend money on, last model I bought. ever.. thanks for thorough manual though..
I wouldn't really spend this much time with it. It is possible to make it work without cracking, but even then you let it sit for a month and it will crack.
Thanks, we had only one of the universal joints out of line so the clicking was a bit quieter. You can remover the shaft by taking the front seats out. All sorted now.
At 2:11, the right image is step 89 on page 59 of the instructions. I just got this set 2 days ago and although my book has the same picture, the online pdf instructions shows the correct alignment of the u-joints in the inset. I just realized that although the inset is wrong in the book and in this video, the main image shows the u-joints correctly aligned.
That's a nice explanation Getting better every review And really helps me a lot Keep going, keep helping us Better that the one who lives in Poland 😃😃😃
Fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing. This fixed my set and is now working well. I emailed Lego 6 days ago about my set not working but have not heard a thing from them.
Just like land rover! It's a fantastic copy of the original 🤣 ! One thing remains : do the forum of this vehicle in order to resolve the lot of problems that have the land rovvies!
Thanks to you very much, this problem make me can't sleep after finish building . At first, I think is there any wrong building made by me ? And now, after watching your video , I fix it ! It done!
Remove the joined part under the passenger seat and move ur whel. If its still craking ur problem is from gearbox. Its too hard to move the gear rleas them with a way . If ur problem is from the engin its about timing like a real car U just need a clutch like somthing and replace it with red par then move it frome hiest gear it will finde its plaice (the clutch must not bee to realisd or too hard) then very cearful remove the clutch sistem and get bak the red shaft. Mark the place and U have the timing on Ur lego
So I built mine with the help of all of your videos (very recently I may add) and there was no cracking...at first. Now in high gears there seems to be cracking and the output is not at a constant speed. What do I do?
I am not totally sold on your recommendation. I have properly aligned both universal joints according to your instructions. My main concern is that the gearbox works incredibly fine when the car moves in reverse (i.e., backwards), regardless how hard you push it, even in Hi-4th gear. On the contrary, when you push the car 'drivewards' the gear box is a complete mesh in 3rd and 4th gears. I suspect it has to do with torsional torques in the shafts, and I would like to know if somebody else is having issues with it.
I did not say that the U-joints can be the only source of the problems, I suggest to check my pinned comment above. Btw in reverse the gearbox works incredibly fine because it does not drive anything, in reverse the fake engine is driven directly bypassing the gearbox.
@@RacingBrick Thanks for your answer. I know that the gearbox works fine in reverse because the 'selectors' are bypassed. What I meant is that when you have the model in 'Drive' mode with Hi + 4th gear, you can push it either frontwards or backwards. In the latter my gear box works like clockwork. However, pushing the car frontwards produces cracking over 3th gear. Probably, I am going to rebuild the car in 'British mode', to see whether I can reverse that behaviour (frontwards vs. backwards) or not.
I have disasembled the model completely and gone back to step 1. I intended to rebuilt the model alla 'British' but in the end, instead of flipping right to left and left to right, I found it easier to make two small changes: in steps number 4 and number 134, I just swapped the position of the differentials. Of course, in steps number 89 and number 90 I have properly aligned the U-joints, as originally suggested by RacingBrick. Also, I have paid careful attention to assemble the gears with enough gaps to reduce friction at all times. Now, my Land Rover's gear box runs like soft butter, whithout barely any sign of friction when pushing it forward.
@@BorjaVarona_at_YT Swapping the direction of the rear and front differentials worked for me also! I had tried adjusting every gear I could access without a complete rebuild. There was cracking from the gears only when moving forward in D on the two highest gears. Now there's only cracking when moving backwards in D on the two highest gears. As you shouldn't really reverse in D, this is not a problem. :)
You’re guide is amazing, and it stopped cracking in drive, but the fake engine won’t work and when I go in the low or high differential mods it still cracks :/ Amazing video though!
Great video. Thanks! It helps me a lot. I have checked that Lego has fixed this issue updating the online instructions and setting the shafts exactly as you do. Apart from this, I've also checked that the fake motor gears cascade is the other origin of these cracks (apart of the u-joints issue, of course) because it does not run very smoothly. If you disconnect the light gray shaft to them, everything goes fine. Interestingly, if you spin the gears with the chassis upside-down, the motor spins smoother. I think that is something related to front chassis torsion. Ironically everything works also fine when you move the car backward!
Gert Heb ik ook gemeld bij Lego. Als je zelf rijd ga na ongeveer 1 meter het rijden moeilijker, til de auto op en het achter wiel draai naar achteren. Dat is het probleem dat niet alle mogelijkheden werken zoals beweerd.
It is actually possible to build the model with a properly working drivetrain and without building up tension or cracking, but everything needs to be perfectly aligned and well balanced.
I am getting cracking when in D, and I can see/hear the tension built up in the gears. Don’t know how to fix, as I’ve gotten all the build correct, as far as I can tell. U joints are oriented correctly, as are the differentials.
I bought my Landy second hand for € 75 including box and spare parts as defective because rear wheels turned in opposite direction. So I had to rebuild it . Price was quite good I think.
I did everything correct, without the other green parts i removed it works fine, then when i built it fully, the pistons again move well, it cracks a little in 4th gear hi when it drives fast, when i move it slow it doesn’t crack. I think it might be the weight of the car that causes the crack
Hi, I had massive problems with 3rd and 4th gear, which complete wind up the driveline. My suspicion is that the 8 /24 teeqth gear combo in the gearbox is pushing things to fast. After changing this to a 12/24 teeth combination everything works fine. There is still more resistant in the higher gears but no more driveline wind up or cracking noises.
So mine seems like it is having the same issue, but aligning the u-joints does not fix it. It works perfectly in R. But when in D, it binds up and builds that tension that spins the wheels when you lift them up.
I did everything you said and still had some clicking in hi and lo 3rd and 4th gear. What I figured out is that Lego put the 2 differentials in backwards so I flipped them around and now I have no issue at all in any gear combination
I am in the middle of building a motorized mod, with all sorts of snaps, crackles and pops. I read the hypoallergenic Vaseline is OK to dab on gears, but other people say it will melt the plastic over time.
I changed the U-Joints and my connector in the center holding the axle of the DNR selector is in place but I still get cracks at that location, any solutions?
That thing with the + and - on it, if you scroll it all the way to the - and put it in drive, it cracks, but then when you scroll it however many times you want to in the + direction it doesnt crack, im not sure if its for everyone, or just me,
I have this model and it is finished now but i have also problems with it: 1 it doesn't drive, the front wheels are good but the back wheels not, 1 turns forward and other backward. 2 the black gear on the roof turns but is not functioning 3 if i would pull the winch out, i can not pull it back because it is all hidden. the gear which was meant to do this in the hood is stuck Do you know what went wrong? I rebuilded the chassis 2 times but the problem with the back wheels is still there. I don't understand it.
1. Turning one wheel on the rear axle and having the other running in the opposite direction is normal due to the nature of the differential, but this should be only the case if the differential is "locked" and cannot be turned or the output axle is blocked. Check the rear differential and the gears/axles going to the central differential. 2. This means your HOG steering is not connected somewhere, follow the axles/gears from the roof to the steering rack. 3. There's a ratchet with a red knob in the front left corner of the engine bay, you need to push that forward to release the winch. If you can pull it out but can't pull back that means the rope is winded up in the opposite direction. Turning the knob should pull it back, so you need to pull all the rope out and at the end start to wind it up with the knob.
My U joints are aligned yet I can still hear cracks and the wheels want to spin the opposite direction (reverse) when I use the 3rd and 4th gear (the knob with the + -) when on D L/H. The 1st and 2nd gear works just fine. What’s wrong and how shall I fix that?
I aligned properly the joints but in 3rd and 4th gear i still have some issues, the engine doesn't make any weird noise but the wheels roll backwords when I lift the car up. Please help I can't find a solution (I already redone the entire build but nothing)
Hey, I’ve built the car and the car won’t go, it makes exactly this sound. Rolling one wheel rolls the other in opposite direction. The engine in the back does nothing. Question... how do I even get to these engine parts? The whole car is a solid unit and I have no idea how to dismantle all this. Any help appreciated.
Sounds like one of your differential gear boxes was installed incorrectly. The differentials are the square enclosures with the small tan halved gear wheels.
I've done as you've suggested both in your video and in the link provided however I still get resistance in the high gears. There's no cracking but the wheels wind back and the engine doesn't run properly. Any help?
My U-joints are correct but I still feel some mechanical resistance in the model. In the higher gears that resistance acts like a pullback motor until a gear slips
@@RacingBrick Yup. Pity I then can't hear the clicking noises the video is demonstrating. hey ho. Apologies for applying my pet rant re music on videos here , your video is genuinely of interest to me as my landie was exhibiting exactly these build issues elearningindustry.com/use-background-music-with-instruction-no
@@GregElkin luckily the clicking/cracking noises are very loud so they can be absolutely clearly heard despite the background music. It might be a personal preference, I don't like videos where there's no sound at all.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Please note, this is not an ultimate fix for all cracking issues, it only covers one of the most frequent reasons. For a detailed guide please click here - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
now i just hear clicking instead of cracking and the wheels do not recoil
Ya thanks for the ultimate build guide or whatever it was called cuz that explained the solution much better
Thank you very much I appreciate all the work!
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI)
Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
Same here. I finished the build last night and the rear drivetrain runs sluggish and cracks when driven around. U-joints are fine. I really think the problem is in the rear drivetrain because running the front wheels goes fairly smooth. It's the rear wheels that are the problem. All the connections seem to be right, at first glance. Anyone got a fix or point in the right direction?
Wow, Lego genuinely did go over and above when they made this set, it has design issues and causes grief, just like a real Land Rover 👍
Funny....
Ha! Comedian
But keeps on ticking!
True!
And what car do U have a Ford Fiesta mate
Is this guy a Certified Land Rover Technician tho?
That’s the warranty void then
considering the amount of people I helped in the past few months, I definitely deserve that certification :)
Great video. To all people who still have problems after this mod. Don't slide the u-joints all the way to the end of the axles. Let it be losen a little bit.The shaft will be restricted in it's movement If you slide the u joints all the way to the end of the shafts, which in turn will cause cracking noise and stop movement of the wheels. This solution together with the solution of racingbrick fixed my problem and the gearbox is running like a dream now.
Hi, you mean the axle within itself (the one which has u-joints at both ends) or the axles coming from the gearbox to which the u-joints get attached?
I just though it was authenticity.
didnt want to ruin 111
Lol
Same
Also the fact that the U-joints work at a very high angle contributes to the problem.
I never thought I needed this video,
I don’t even own this thing
Same
I had
I am getting it for christmas I'm hoping
@@EvillRat Did you get it?
Thank you, I rebuilt the chassis 3 times thinking I messed something up as I had the same issue with the wheels binding when pushing forward
sam cas me too😑
It was only a matter of time before car repair videos got a Lego version!
Thank God for this video! I was A convinced I’d screwed up my first ever Lego model at the tender age of 41 and B virtually stripped it as far as I could thinking I’d reversed the difs... you’re right the instructions are wrong on the alignment of the universal joints... many thanks!
Thank you for this fix video. After final assembly, I didn't have a cracking issue but noticed the selectors didn't seem to do anything. Spent 20 minutes trying to do a minimal disassembly and noticed that one of the joints was off set. Normally I keep them in line, but not this time. Fixed and the issue was resolved. Thanks.
Guys, I’ve spent a lot of time trying to find out what was the issue that caused the cracking noise and I think that the most popular “mistake” is in the fake engine itself. Little 2:1:1 pieces that are rotated by the axle in the engine might not be placed perfectly and then it becomes much harder to rotate while touching the wrong fake cylinder (red one). And sometimes when it cracks, the engine stops working on any other speed. It is because of the dark bluish grey connectors between the seats (and near the + - sticker). They just get further from each other and don’t let the gears rotate properly.
I had the same clicking issue and was able to properly align the U-joints without any disassembly (I accessed them from under the vehicle and through the passenger side door). I no longer experience any clicking at all and it runs silently in neutral, as intended! Thank you for the helpful, informative video and for saving my build! :D
Awesome. Thank you. I didn’t had the cracking issue but the engine speed wasn’t correct. That small change fixed that!!
I have managed to solve the sticking wheel issue!!
Took me a full strip down to find it.
1. Turn the vehicle upside down.
2. Look for the main gear on the rear differential.
3. Locate the small dark grey cog to the rear if the main diff gear.
4. Double check you have installed item "6261374" correctly page 495 of the manual. (Small grey + - o connector)
Let me know if this solves your issue 😎🤙
My land Rover still cracks, I built it 2 times
No one:
When the cracking noise is still there:
*Visible depression*
Thank you very much for your videos. I had the tension build, cracking issue in Hi 3rd and 4th, official Lego directions were wrong! Adjusted my u joints as shown here, and problem solved! You rock dude!
Not all superheroes wear capes! Thank you @RacingBrick!
If you still have issues I suggest to remove the body, then go through the whole drive train and double check everything as it is presented in this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html
It is also possible to disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately by turning the gears manually.
Here's a hint how can you remove the body in bigger pieces - facebook.com/Racingbrick/photos/a.642361079222005/1486442398147198/
Hello. Like your video very much. Just a short question. I have checked my U-joints and other stuff you proposed. And still have the same issue. Funny, when I put gear in R, all gears work perfectly without cracking sound (HI, LOW, all gears) and motor simulating cylinders movements. Only in D I have explained issues. Any comment on that? Thanks.
@@tom7956 I suggest to check this video - ruclips.net/video/t9VQGoqhOFs/видео.html
In R your gearbox is not involved, the fake engine is driven directly so hi/lo and the gears does nothing. I suggest to remove the body, disconnect the shafts going to and from the gearbox and check the sections separately
@@RacingBrick i watched your video changed details and my Landover actually doesn't crack.
I fixed it with your help
I only have this issue when moving the defender forward in drive high or low, but when I move the defender backwards, even in drive high or low (or reverse - yes I know R bypasses) there are no cracks, albeit the pistons don't move completely smooth. Why is it cracking when my U joints are aligned?
I just finished stage one and found that when I spun one wheel the other was reversed. I reversed the differential multiple times without luck. I ended up tearing it apart. Right before attaching the gear box I tested the wheels and they spun the same way. After I attached it they were reversed. I've triple checked the gearbox. Do you know what's going on? I'm probably just going to continue.
Nobody
Me Trying to silently turn on my electric stove 3am 0:06
lmfao🤣😂😅
That need to set UJ's correctly is very well known in motor engineering. Odd that Lego got one of them wrong. Well done for finding it and making this video. BobUK
Had an older manual, the 2 u-joints orientation was wrong, no clicking sound but pistons wouldn't run. aligned them per your recommendations and solved my issue. Thanks!
Great video - my model suffered both issues, but now running much better - thanks! Very informative generally on the universal joint alignment too, I had no idea that it mattered.
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH
Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié.
____
If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
Thanks for this video, along with alot of people i thought i had done some thing wrong during the build. It's just going to be a display piece so my mind is at ease knowing this was a common problem.
Slap some WD40 on it and it will fix it.
During my last 2 medicopter shift, I spent my freetime to build this set. It was so frustrating to hear this creepy noise. I started to search the web instantly, and found this video very soon. I did everything as it mentioned, but first, I didn't get a good result. Double checked everything, finally I found out, that a pin is a bit out of it's place. Took that back, than everything worked as it should be. Thx! A+
Örülök hogy tudtam segíteni :)
@@RacingBrick esetleg abban még tudnál segíteni, hogy hol lehet rá beszerezni valami terepesebb gumit és felnit?
@@Memmaao a 9398 gumijai mennek rá erre a felinre amik ballonosabbak, viszont az kanyarodáskor beleér a kerékívbe.
@@RacingBrick köszi! Kár, hogy ilyen utcai gumival jött ki... Egy terep gumi bitang jól mutatna rajta!
Thank you soooooo much. Great advice, it fixed the problem, I am really glad you made this video. Just finished bag 2, I really enjoyed construction but this little bit was frustrating. Well done!!
Thanks for the great video. I've just got this set and the instructions have been corrected. It shows the correct alignment of the universal joints as you suggest.
Wow I hate it when I hear this noise when I try to play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender, but thanks to this video I can now play with my new LEGO Technic 42110 Land Rover Defender in peace.
3:06 Even my wheels rotate backwards also the fake engine pistons work (I'm talking about my 4th gear /HI)
Should I open my model and check the U joints again? Or I should check something else too...
I really have to say thank you
I was struggling and thinking about demolish and redo from start everything
Great job
Getting this tmw. I’ll keep this in mind.
I made the Defender and looked carefully at all gears and orientation of the U-joints. No cracking noise when moving the Defender slow. At higher speed there is still cracking noise, despite I checked all your advised checkpoints.
I'm already lost 10 seconds into the video, still give an A+ for the effort for this whole vid
I checked everything three times, reconnected the UJ at least ten times, tried every other advice, also I followed the instructions so close, it was not even fun building it. Now I still have that ******* cracking and I feel like Im going insane.. nothing helps, so I will have to take it all apart and build again... what a great thing to spend money on, last model I bought. ever.. thanks for thorough manual though..
I wouldn't really spend this much time with it. It is possible to make it work without cracking, but even then you let it sit for a month and it will crack.
Thanks, we had only one of the universal joints out of line so the clicking was a bit quieter. You can remover the shaft by taking the front seats out. All sorted now.
At 2:11, the right image is step 89 on page 59 of the instructions. I just got this set 2 days ago and although my book has the same picture, the online pdf instructions shows the correct alignment of the u-joints in the inset. I just realized that although the inset is wrong in the book and in this video, the main image shows the u-joints correctly aligned.
That's a nice explanation
Getting better every review
And really helps me a lot
Keep going, keep helping us
Better that the one who lives in Poland 😃😃😃
Fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing. This fixed my set and is now working well. I emailed Lego 6 days ago about my set not working but have not heard a thing from them.
That's great to hear, glad I could help! :)
Just like land rover! It's a fantastic copy of the original 🤣 ! One thing remains : do the forum of this vehicle in order to resolve the lot of problems that have the land rovvies!
Also make sure the inner U joint doesn't slide into the 24 tooth gear.
I just bought this and this video is very useful thank you for making this!
After this, if it's still not working, check if differential are in the right direction. step 4 and 136. It fixed my model :)
Thanks to you very much, this problem make me can't sleep after finish building . At first, I think is there any wrong building made by me ? And now, after watching your video , I fix it ! It done!
Thank you 🙏. This has been really helpful! Keep up the good work!
The hero we needed, but not the one we deserve.
Remove the joined part under the passenger seat and move ur whel. If its still craking ur problem is from gearbox. Its too hard to move the gear rleas them with a way . If ur problem is from the engin its about timing like a real car U just need a clutch like somthing and replace it with red par then move it frome hiest gear it will finde its plaice (the clutch must not bee to realisd or too hard) then very cearful remove the clutch sistem and get bak the red shaft. Mark the place and U have the timing on Ur lego
4:35 that little red gap shown was the problem with mine. Thank you so much!! No more cracks and all I hear the pistons moving :)
So I built mine with the help of all of your videos (very recently I may add) and there was no cracking...at first. Now in high gears there seems to be cracking and the output is not at a constant speed. What do I do?
Thx for the fix! I also used a bit of mineral oil on the gears, it helps.
I am not totally sold on your recommendation. I have properly aligned both universal joints according to your instructions. My main concern is that the gearbox works incredibly fine when the car moves in reverse (i.e., backwards), regardless how hard you push it, even in Hi-4th gear. On the contrary, when you push the car 'drivewards' the gear box is a complete mesh in 3rd and 4th gears. I suspect it has to do with torsional torques in the shafts, and I would like to know if somebody else is having issues with it.
I did not say that the U-joints can be the only source of the problems, I suggest to check my pinned comment above. Btw in reverse the gearbox works incredibly fine because it does not drive anything, in reverse the fake engine is driven directly bypassing the gearbox.
@@RacingBrick Thanks for your answer. I know that the gearbox works fine in reverse because the 'selectors' are bypassed. What I meant is that when you have the model in 'Drive' mode with Hi + 4th gear, you can push it either frontwards or backwards. In the latter my gear box works like clockwork. However, pushing the car frontwards produces cracking over 3th gear. Probably, I am going to rebuild the car in 'British mode', to see whether I can reverse that behaviour (frontwards vs. backwards) or not.
I have disasembled the model completely and gone back to step 1. I intended to rebuilt the model alla 'British' but in the end, instead of flipping right to left and left to right, I found it easier to make two small changes: in steps number 4 and number 134, I just swapped the position of the differentials. Of course, in steps number 89 and number 90 I have properly aligned the U-joints, as originally suggested by RacingBrick. Also, I have paid careful attention to assemble the gears with enough gaps to reduce friction at all times. Now, my Land Rover's gear box runs like soft butter, whithout barely any sign of friction when pushing it forward.
@@BorjaVarona_at_YT Swapping the direction of the rear and front differentials worked for me also! I had tried adjusting every gear I could access without a complete rebuild. There was cracking from the gears only when moving forward in D on the two highest gears. Now there's only cracking when moving backwards in D on the two highest gears. As you shouldn't really reverse in D, this is not a problem. :)
I don’t even have this or need to fix this but I’m here and I’m watching this
The solution that worked for me. Swap the side of the «dark grey » toothed disk in both steps N.4 and N.134. The english side. And both on same side.
Thanks a lot for the solution! Is it normal to have the crackig even after implementing this solution for the highest(4th) gear?
It is normal, I suggest to check the link in the pinned comment for some background information
This isnt just a lego issue. People with insane lifts on their vehicles snap axles and driveshafts all the time and wonder why.
Can't believe I missed that in the instructions, ty
Ok mine were actually already aligned and I still get cracks
You’re guide is amazing, and it stopped cracking in drive, but the fake engine won’t work and when I go in the low or high differential mods it still cracks :/ Amazing video though!
Thanks for this video! :D
I never had this problem, but because you made this video before I got this, I knew what to look out for! :D
Great video. Thanks! It helps me a lot. I have checked that Lego has fixed this issue updating the online instructions and setting the shafts exactly as you do. Apart from this, I've also checked that the fake motor gears cascade is the other origin of these cracks (apart of the u-joints issue, of course) because it does not run very smoothly. If you disconnect the light gray shaft to them, everything goes fine. Interestingly, if you spin the gears with the chassis upside-down, the motor spins smoother. I think that is something related to front chassis torsion. Ironically everything works also fine when you move the car backward!
Thanks for the clear explanation!
thank you! fixed my issue even after rebuilding it a second time!
Thank you i was thinking on it for 6 months thank you very much
Gert
Heb ik ook gemeld bij Lego. Als je zelf rijd ga na ongeveer 1 meter het rijden moeilijker, til de auto op en het achter
wiel draai naar achteren. Dat is het probleem dat niet alle mogelijkheden werken zoals beweerd.
It is actually possible to build the model with a properly working drivetrain and without building up tension or cracking, but everything needs to be perfectly aligned and well balanced.
Guess what? No cracking, finally! Thanks! :)
Looks like LEGO have fixed the manual now. I'm up to this step on my Defender and both of the joints are in the correct position.
I am getting cracking when in D, and I can see/hear the tension built up in the gears. Don’t know how to fix, as I’ve gotten all the build correct, as far as I can tell. U joints are oriented correctly, as are the differentials.
I bought my Landy second hand for € 75 including box and spare parts as defective because rear wheels turned in opposite direction. So I had to rebuild it . Price was quite good I think.
sorry but it still dose't work for me can you help me?
This helped me to fix similar issue in my moc. Thanks for this video
Do you connect the red axle with the same colour, or the opposite, as I find it difficult to manage it? Could you please make a tutorial?
I did everything correct, without the other green parts i removed it works fine, then when i built it fully, the pistons again move well, it cracks a little in 4th gear hi when it drives fast, when i move it slow it doesn’t crack. I think it might be the weight of the car that causes the crack
Thanks for this ! Not that i need it yet, but the guide is helpfull to know should my completed build have issues.
Hey my Lamborghini rear wheels spin in opposite directions. Do I have to re build? Thanks
I'm about to build this, so good to keep in mind!
Pls help me.
I dont know how to fix it
same. this set is bs. worst lego building experience ever.
Hi, I had massive problems with 3rd and 4th gear, which complete wind up the driveline. My suspicion is that the 8 /24 teeqth gear combo in the gearbox is pushing things to fast.
After changing this to a 12/24 teeth combination everything works fine. There is still more resistant in the higher gears but no more driveline wind up or cracking noises.
Did you do this with your own separate gears? I feel like I have the same problem, gears 3&4 not working because the gears can't handle the friction
@@CptMaximus Yeah, I pulled the gear out of a different set.
The thing is a nightmare to take apart, hopefully this will fix my issue.
So mine seems like it is having the same issue, but aligning the u-joints does not fix it. It works perfectly in R. But when in D, it binds up and builds that tension that spins the wheels when you lift them up.
I suggest to use this - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
Thanks for the video it helped out with diagnosing the problem and fixing it aswell
I did everything you said and still had some clicking in hi and lo 3rd and 4th gear. What I figured out is that Lego put the 2 differentials in backwards so I flipped them around and now I have no issue at all in any gear combination
i saw all your videos, and there aren't any mistakes with my range rover, and i did what you said to do and it never worked.
If there are no mistakes with your build then it should be working, shouldn't it?
@@RacingBrick well it should be working i took it completely apart, i couldn't find any mistakes
i tried aligning the u-joints, it improves how it runs but there is still a lot of cracking.
I am in the middle of building a motorized mod, with all sorts of snaps, crackles and pops. I read the hypoallergenic Vaseline is OK to dab on gears, but other people say it will melt the plastic over time.
thank you so much for this.so all i have to do is push in that axle in the correct order?
well this is a potential source of the problems with the car, that's the first thing worth to check
@@RacingBrick thank you.
I changed the U-Joints and my connector in the center holding the axle of the DNR selector is in place but I still get cracks at that location, any solutions?
That thing with the + and - on it, if you scroll it all the way to the - and put it in drive, it cracks, but then when you scroll it however many times you want to in the + direction it doesnt crack, im not sure if its for everyone, or just me,
Cheers finally fixed mine kept putting it off but it's not too difficult to get to..
I have this model and it is finished now but i have also problems with it:
1 it doesn't drive, the front wheels are good but the back wheels not, 1 turns forward and other backward.
2 the black gear on the roof turns but is not functioning
3 if i would pull the winch out, i can not pull it back because it is all hidden.
the gear which was meant to do this in the hood is stuck
Do you know what went wrong? I rebuilded the chassis 2 times but the problem with the back wheels is still there. I don't understand it.
1. Turning one wheel on the rear axle and having the other running in the opposite direction is normal due to the nature of the differential, but this should be only the case if the differential is "locked" and cannot be turned or the output axle is blocked. Check the rear differential and the gears/axles going to the central differential.
2. This means your HOG steering is not connected somewhere, follow the axles/gears from the roof to the steering rack.
3. There's a ratchet with a red knob in the front left corner of the engine bay, you need to push that forward to release the winch. If you can pull it out but can't pull back that means the rope is winded up in the opposite direction. Turning the knob should pull it back, so you need to pull all the rope out and at the end start to wind it up with the knob.
My U joints are aligned yet I can still hear cracks and the wheels want to spin the opposite direction (reverse) when I use the 3rd and 4th gear (the knob with the + -) when on D L/H. The 1st and 2nd gear works just fine.
What’s wrong and how shall I fix that?
Hi, Exactly same issue with mine aviv. Did you find a solution please ?
tony_et_tony. No... I guess I’ll just rebuilt it when I have the time
I aligned properly the joints but in 3rd and 4th gear i still have some issues, the engine doesn't make any weird noise but the wheels roll backwords when I lift the car up. Please help I can't find a solution (I already redone the entire build but nothing)
There's no ultimate solution other than checking the drivetrain section by section for any misalignments
If my rear wheels are binding after phase 2 of building should i rebuild ?
Hey, I’ve built the car and the car won’t go, it makes exactly this sound. Rolling one wheel rolls the other in opposite direction. The engine in the back does nothing.
Question... how do I even get to these engine parts? The whole car is a solid unit and I have no idea how to dismantle all this.
Any help appreciated.
And the U-joints are correctly put.
You can see here how the body panels can be removed in bigger pieces - facebook.com/Racingbrick/photos/a.642361079222005/1486442398147198/
Sounds like one of your differential gear boxes was installed incorrectly. The differentials are the square enclosures with the small tan halved gear wheels.
I've done as you've suggested both in your video and in the link provided however I still get resistance in the high gears. There's no cracking but the wheels wind back and the engine doesn't run properly. Any help?
There's no magic solution for that, the only thing is to rebuild
Hi , whats motors and box are you using on the wheel so I can get this to show the movement
Something somewhere is happening with my Lego technic Lamborghini do you have any suggestions for that
Well something somewhere definitely needs to be rebuilt then
OUTSTANDING thank you for your time and effort
Mine doesny make any noise. Is mine not a true land rover?
My U-joints are correct but I still feel some mechanical resistance in the model. In the higher gears that resistance acts like a pullback motor until a gear slips
Hi, I tried to fix my Defender with your solution, but, still, there is cracking noise when gearbox is set on higher gears.
fascinating and want to watch to fix my landie but have to have the audio off to remove the irritating music!
We are so lucky to have a mute button, aren't we?
@@RacingBrick Yup. Pity I then can't hear the clicking noises the video is demonstrating. hey ho. Apologies for applying my pet rant re music on videos here , your video is genuinely of interest to me as my landie was exhibiting exactly these build issues elearningindustry.com/use-background-music-with-instruction-no
@@GregElkin luckily the clicking/cracking noises are very loud so they can be absolutely clearly heard despite the background music. It might be a personal preference, I don't like videos where there's no sound at all.