Please check the full guide here with the issues and symptoms listed - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
@RacingBrick Hello dear fellow! I got a probably silly question, why put the red tough spring in front of the grey soft spring? I was wondering this because I got the idea of putting it the other way around to first have a soft bump onto obstacles and then have a tight stopper for the bump! As in you drive onto a rock and have the soft spring Feathering in (I don't know how else to word this, what I mean is the spring stick to slide into the outta pipe, hope this is helping to understand my shitty English lol) and letting the bump push the front wheels up and then having the tough spring in the back of the two spring front suspension to absorb the last bit of energy to have a "more comfortable" "driving experience", I don't know if this makes any sense and would love to hear your opinion on this 😂 (and everyone's else's thoughts as well!)
@@Marlon_J. there's no real "driving experience" with a non-motorized LEGO car :) You can play around with the springs but I think the hardness-softness was tuned to keep the body level, so the designer was mostly considering the weight of the car.
"As you see you really get the full Landrover owner's experience with this car"!!!! Great video. I don't even own the model (yet) and thought it was outstanding!
@Racing Brick - thank you for sharing your passion, with those of us who were stranded, with a distraught young child, unaware of what was wrong with their LEGO set, that they have been working on for the past 4 months. It wouldn't roll, because the back tires were blocked. After watching your video, I easily fixed the problem, and because of you - I look like a hero. For that - I THANK YOU.
You do a fantastic job with these videos. The camera angles, the verbal explanations and the hand demonstrations are top quality and extremely easy to follow along with. My hat is off to you, sir.
You are a SAVIOUR my Friend !! I had the rear axle not moving and after hours of building this it was a disappointment. Following you superb instructions, the sorrow turned to joy in a few mins. Thanks a ton for posting so much helpful information. You ROCK !!!
Thank you so much for your trouble shooting guide. My 12 year old son spent days building it only to find that the rear suspension didn't work. Your detailed video helped us to discover the problem and fix it within minutes. It saved a lot of stress and tears! Thank you.
Thank you so much for doing all this work and solving all the different issues people have with correctly assembling this complex model. This is a very in depth guide and I, for one, am very grateful for your gift to the LEGO world!
Amazing video. It was so frustrating to had the back differential and back wheels stucked. My wife helped me realize I got step 65 wrong, this video could have saved me a couple hours of my life and an epic discussion with her. Greetings from Mexico
Racing brick, your videos and content are absolutely superb!, i had a problem with the rear wheels not turning, i started fault finding and found an issue with the rear part of the vehicle and found the culprit, now thanks to this video you helped massively, tiny correction of turning around 1 piece solved it, now everything works fine, so thank you very much and take care.
@@gzbg21 Hi there, an yes its one of those pieces that can fit in both ways an very easily missed, an yea definitely seems pretty common, but yea so glad i found this video too, happy building 😉👍
Great guide! I must have re-watched it a hundred times by now - probably peaked between the time I ordered this set and as I watched its delivery status to finally reach me. The review of the correct setup of the transmission and gearing was unbelievably helpful however at higher (fixed/reversed lower)+HI gear there's still some cracking and push back from the system - my guess is with so many cogs and shafts the issue lies in the friction between plastic parts rather than build error, but it gives me an excuse to strip it down and build it up again. Also the droopy suspension might depend on the "freshness" of the springs or maybe which one is closer to the axles - red+grey up front seems to be doing a good enough job (with the red being at the centre of the axis). Anyway, I am hooked (again) on Lego partially because of you and looking forward to more inspiring reviews!
My Land Rover had those cracks and tried everything in the video. Finally, the solution was to disassemble (saving the exterior parts as shows in the video) and assemble again. Now works fine, so don't desperate if you have to rebuild, just make sure many times that mechanical drivetrain works smoothly.
Thank you. Four hours of repeatidly assembling , dissasembling and reassembling the same module..then I found this video and ( after calling myself all sorts of idiots) I sorted my problem.
What I found out is that the fake engine is the biggest cause of the gears getting stuck. The crankshaft needs to hit the pistons with some force, if not, they get stuck and the gearbox gets stuck which makes the wheels get stuck. The crankshaft from the manual fires 2-1-1-2. If you change it to 2-1-2-1, you'll get a better balanced force that goes through the fake engine. Definatly helped for me! I've also build the version from jb70 from rebrickable, that drivetrain moves smoother because there are no u-joints. He did a great job redesigning the drivetrain, also fixes the Hi-Lo sticker working correctly. Would recommend it to everyone. Also Racingbrick, you're awesome doing all the video's on this set. It's a great set to build and to have, and helping people having problems is always a good thing!
SEE ENGLISH VERSION BELOW FRENCH Oh mec, c'est exactement sur ce dernier point que je me suis penché hier, après avoir cassé une pièce. Comme toi j'ai trouvé que les pistons moteur à eux seuls étaient difficiles à entraîner. ça me rassure que je ne suis pas le seul à imaginer ce problème. Peux-tu montrer les photos du vilebrequin/de l'axe moteur corrigé. As-tu lien de la vidéo où il modifie le système avec les arbres de transmission (en espérant qu'il ne faille pas d'autres pièces que celle du set sinon pas envisageable pour moi). Mais changer la hauteur ou la configuration des pistons me semble être une voie à explorer. Faut juste voir comment réorganiser le jeu de pistons. Inverser les deux différentiels d'axe pour faciliter la marche avant au détriment de la marche arrière (qui je pense n'utilise quand même pas la totalité de la transmission) peut résoudre en partie le problème, mais à tester... Merci pour ton retour en tout cas ! EDIT : J'ai trouvé et regardé sur le site Rebrickable le MOC de JB70 seulement je ne vois nulle part où il a changé le séquencement des pistons par rapport aux instructions originales. Mais je pense trouver une séquence à tester lors de l'éventuel prochain remontage. Je viens de mieux comprendre le séquencement 2-1-2-1 que tu veux dire par rapport au 2-1-1-2 suggéré par le livre qui, je pense, déséquilibre l'inertie de l'axe. Et concernant la boite de vitesses, il supprime de fait les u-joint mais ça change pas mal la construction de la voiture mais surtout, il faut acheter pas mal de pièces en plus, du coup je vais devoir rester sur le modèle de transmission par u-joint. --------------------------------------- Oh man, it's exactly on this last point that I looked at yesterday, after breaking a piece. Like you, I found that the engine pistons alone were difficult to train. It reassures me that I am not the only one imagining this problem. Can you show the photos of the corrected crankshaft / engine shaft. Do you have a link to the video where he modifies the system with the drive shafts (hoping that it will not require other parts than that of the set if not not possible for me). But changing the height or configuration of the pistons seems to me to be a way to explore. Just have to see how to rearrange the piston set. Reversing the two axle differentials to facilitate forward travel to the detriment of reverse (which I think still doesn't use the entire transmission) can partially solve the problem, but to be tested ... Thank you for your return anyway! EDIT: I found and looked at the JB70 MOC on the Rebrickable site only I can't see anywhere where it changed the piston sequence from the original instructions. But I think I will find a sequence to test during the possible next reassembly. I just got a better understanding of the 2-1-2-1 sequencing that you mean compared to the 2-1-1-2 suggested by the book which, I think, unbalances the inertia of the axis. And concerning the gearbox, it removes in fact the u-joints but it changes a lot the construction of the car but above all, you have to buy a lot of parts in addition, suddenly I will have to stay on the transmission model by u-joint
@@crucqjeremy8762 The crankshaft change was my own idea. If you have some extra technic parts you can get a long way with the V1.3 MOC model. I've only made the drivetrain and the gearbox. I didn't changed the steering system or the bodywork like on jb70's design. You can always try and see how far you can get if you have some other Technic models you are willing to take apart, or if you can buy spare parts somewhere. I haven't tested the 2-1-2-1 crankshaft with the standard LEGO model, but maybe that will be helpfull to make it run better. Good luck!
@@shampo0oLWD Je pense tester le vilebrequin en 2-1-2-1 + vérifier l'entiereté du modèle et des ajustements (comme suggéré par l'auteur de la vidéo), car pour le reste je n'ai ni envie d'acheter de pièces supplémentaires (déjà que je sais pas pour combien j'en aurais avec les 4 u-joints et les frais d'envois), ni envie de démonter le seul autre set Lego que j'ai (qui fonctionne merveilleusement bien, je serai capable de le casser lui aussi en le démontant.). Et merci ! ---------------- I plan to test the crankshaft in 2-1-2-1 + check the completeness of the model and adjustments (as suggested by the author of the video), because for the rest I have neither desire to buy parts extra (already that I don't know how much I would have with the 4 u-joints and the shipping costs), nor want to disassemble the only other Lego set that I have (which works wonderfully well, I will be able to also break it by dismantling it.). And thanks !
My rear wheels were spinning against each other and the car would not move. I was breaking my head to find where I went wrong and finally found your video. The mistake was putting the gray piece upside down after step 65. Your video (9:10) helped me solve it.
Thank you so much! I almost gave up after I had to disassemble almost the whole thing after finiishing the chassis. After I had put together everything, the motor wasn't running. Fortunately it was just the diff - I admire your patience
Thanks RacingBrick, step 65 correction sorted me out. If both rear wheels lock out when trying to roll on surface I’d check this step. Excellent instructions.
This helped me a lot! On my Defender, the pistons wouldn't move, but after I changed the differentials like you did, it works just fine! Thanks so much for making this video!
Living in England I wanted to build a right-hand drive version. Our friendly designer Grohl says just mirror-build it, left to right. The box arrived today so I now have to try to get my head around building the chassis as per the instructions, but mirror imaging the build of all the drive train and steering. Wish me luck. This excellent video may come in useful
Thank you so much I put the front wheel differential in the wrong place and the engine was not working. So I did like you said and now it works!!!!!! Thank you again soooo much!!!!
I just came across your youtube channel through recommendation. I immediately thought this guy must be Hungarian, and you are! :D (Don't misunderstand me, your pronunciation is great, just for a Hungarian is easier to spot a Hungarian accent. Szia! :)
The verification steps helped us a lot in diagnosing problems we had with the drive train! A faulty connection between the gearbox and the engine was the culprit.
Thank you very much for this. Step 65 error. I had a very frustrated son who had spent so much time building and couldn't get the wheels to turn. This fixed it.
Didn't realize people were having so many issues with a more advanced set like this. I think Lego reached the limit of what an average buyer can build as regards to complexity.
I guess a few verification steps are missing from the manual, like the ones we had for 42082. Once the model is built it is very difficult to find out where the problem is, unless you really understand how the whole drive train works.
The car is too complex for its own good, it doesnt need a working gearbox at all, especially the most complex one lego has ever made. It was inevitable that there would be gearbox problems.
as someone who recently purchased the land rover, this will be incredibly helpful! i love lego but even i would rather not take the set apart shortly after building it. thanks!
For anyone else like me that has tried all the troubleshooting and still has issues, try this: Locate the two gears meshed together - Tan beveled gear and red color gear, below the DNR selector on steering wheel side. On my model they were pressing together tightly which created friction. Any other friction on these gears eg. if they are sandwiched to tightly together on the axels, could also be a problem. Make sure both gears spin freely with no friction. Its extremely subtle but after fiddling with these two gears for a while I got the engine to run smooth in al the high gears.
You, my friend, are a genius. I had the "droopy rear suspension" issue (bring on the jokes!), and your video immeiately pointed me to the problem. Fixed! Thanks for saving me hours of wailing and teeth-gnashing.
First ever technic build and everything was mint didnt have one single problem!! Just gotta be careful and double check your steps and match it to the picture and you will be good!
I am new to this set. I bought it second hand for €75 as "defective" because rear wheels are running in opposite direction. I think that's a good price. I'll rebuild it and check your guide before. Thanks for your detailed information.
AWESOME video and we appreciate your attention to detail! We may also appreciate LEGOs realism in terms of how unreliable LAND ROVER's transmissions are lol
Hello RacingBrick. I came across your Lego Land Rover videos because I recently got this set and (of course) I had the cracking issue. My model was cracking badly even in 3rd-High or 4th-Low. I checked all the possible issues in this guide, but still didn't manage to fix it. What did the trick for me was to re-build the front end of the car more carefully: all the gears built between step 206 and step 246 must have as little friction as possible, especially the gears that directly drive the fake engine. This is essential because in the high gears the output shaft of the 4-speed gearbox has very high speed and therefore very low torque. Any extra-resistance encountered between this shaft and the fake engine will cause the transmission to fail.
Thank you for sharing your experience! Unfortunately no careful building provides a long-term solution, if you leave your car on the shelf for a month or two, it will potentially start to crack...
@@RacingBrick Thanks! I was just very curious. It looked so similar to AutoCad I used years ago but not for Lego! I had a feeling it would take a lot of time & effort to produce! The Defender kit will be my first Technic kit, infact my first Lego kit! Just waiting for it to arrive. Thanks once again. The information you provided in all your videos will make the build more enjoyable & successful. Cheers.
Wonder if lego designers actually do all the meticulous Tests that you do ? I had all the problems mentioned and decided to put on shelves and only admire my handy work. Now I am thinking, if only this was available at the time! I will still look at it on the shelf. Many thanks for the enlightenment :-)
Thanks for the video and for useful suggestions! I was thinking that my Land Rover had some problems and I've just checked it all with this video and there is all ok (btw, I reversed stickers for selectors based on your another vid)... But one thing is still annoying me is a delay of the engine working on low speed, and that it works far from smooth. But it looks like this is how it was designed. Overall, this is my first lego technic for 20 years and a great set overall.
If you check the amount of gears involved you'll understand the cause of the delay. LEGO is not precision technology, you have visible slack already with a handful of gears, and here there are dozens working the same time.
@@RacingBrick yeah, I understand that. I think that the weakest part of this particular machine is a universal joint. I know there is a mod for the chassis out there, but I'm going to leave it as it is
Yeah, you're right.. The get the experience for full and best ownership of the model.. Even though I don't own this model, That is a good video that can be used for other complex models to troubleshoot.. Even if the instruction were written/printed correctly, its human nature to make mistakes..
I bought one that was already mounted... I was like oh no, it's cracking, and direction won't work... I made a first repair by following the plan, then a second repair with your video... Still cracking, so I fully destroyed it and made the stadium truck proposed by the creator of the set... It is not as complex, but it won't crack... Once I will feel better about it, I might rebuild the original defender XD
Hi Balasz, wery nice vid. Yesterday I bought a brand new Defender and I got stuck on step 321 inspecting the gearbox and stuff. I hear cracking noises and wheels move backward starting usually on the 3rd gear. After further inspection, I found out that problem is the weak outer u-joint connection, that struggles to move the motor with the higher speed although aligned properly due to your guide and already fixed printed manual. When I disconnect it from the motor by removing the one gear that follows the red axle, then the red axle turns without any problem. Driving the motor manually through the red axle is smooth as well. I guess this is the same problem as with your older defender but it is weird that sometimes a problem occurs sometimes not. I think it would be worth carefully compare your old and new defender maybe there is some issue other than luck during the building phase but I bet you tried.
Removing a section of the drive train makes it move easier so this is a kind of obvious resolution, but still not a satisfactory one for most :) Based on my experience it is possible to build the set without any cracking or tension building up, even with the fake engine connected, but it requires precision and very careful alignment of all moving parts and even the pieces holding them.
@@RacingBrick of course, it is not satisfactory to disconnect the engine since the moving engine with various speed is the purpose of having a gearbox, I wrote it down as a report from my investigation, not as a solution. :) But it's really weird, although the engine seems to turn smoothly, the gearbox output shaft struggles to move it in higher gears. Now I have the hard choice - try to rebuild it now or finish it and rebuild it later. :D
@@michaelfight7951 even though it seems to move smoothly it is an additional set of gears and then the pistons to move. On thing I did not try - and it would be interesting to test if you have a chance - is to see what happens if only the pistons, or certain pistons are removed? Is it the resistance of the whole fake engine section with the gears and everything that is already over the limit, or it is the fake engine itself?
@@RacingBrick removing pistons did not solve the problem. After several hours I have found the major cause of the cracking - yellow gear on the driver side below the steering wheel that drives the engine directly in the case of reverse. There was friction, probably caused by minor misalignment (weird is, that when the car was shifted into reverse this gear was moving well). After its removal, the car drives fairly okay, there is only occasionally cracking on the highest gear when pushed too fast. There is probably still some minor friction. Now let's find out how to put the gear back to avoid the friction. :D Overall, this model seems to be very sensitive for any friction caused by the misalignment of some parts, not pushing pins fully, etc. even by 0,00000000000000000000001 mm.
Thanks so much for this! Unfortunately even after aligning to U joints properly i still have that cracking noise. Too lazy to disassemble. Guess i'll just stick to reverse
wow , wish I would watch this earlier , just finished my build on last sunday and it doesnt work as it should . Did most likely all those mistakes , starting from very first one- used black toothed wheel instead of grey . No wonder I was short of black one later for my winch . Good job , now need to find time to correct all .
Great video, you put a lot of effort and enthusiasm into this topic. I still have some problems, though. Is it possible that everything is assembled correctly but you cannot get rid of the cracking? - When I first put together all working functions, there was significant cracking noise in D mode in higher gears or in HI mode. In R mode, everything seemed fine, no matter if I moved the car forward or backwards (I hope I remember clearly). Also, if the setup is one where there is cracking, when I lift up the car, the wheels start turning backwards, like coming out of some kind of resistance. - Then I disassembled the model into the two main units to be able to check all the possible errors in your video and also do the verification of the rear unit at step 123. Everything seemed OK and working as in the video except for one thing: - My differentials don't act the same as in the video. When you turn one wheel, the opposite wheel starts to turn immediately into the opposite direction, and only the small yellow gears are moving in the differential, the grey differential remains almost still. When I turn one wheel, usually the whole differential starts to rotate and it rotates the central differential or the main shaft, while the opposite wheel does not turn (or is turning randomly/rarely). I don't understand this becasue my differentials are facing the good direction and I don't see any other possible way to assemble the differential from scratch. Anyway, I haven't gone back to step 1 yet, and every other verification steps were exactly as in the video. - After I checked everything, I assembled the working units again to give it a try. The cracking noise is the same in D mode in higher gears or in HI mode. But now there is also cracking in R mode but only in LOWER gears (not in high) and only if I move the car forward. So now my Defender got even worse. :) Perhaps the short answer is that I should start the assembly again from step 1 but do you have any ideas about the potential problem based on the above symptoms?
The set can be built correctly and it might still make cracking noises. You need to find the perfect alignment of the parts to make everything work smoothly. Honestly if you don't nail it for the first or second time, I would not start over again.
@@RacingBrick Thanks. So far I've built it once, I only disassembled it until the separation of the rear and front units. But I decided not to fully build it a second time now, perhaps later in the future. By the way, I flipped the orientation of both differentials and now the cracking symptomps changed and decreased but still present. Now the forward movement is without cracking in all gears but backward movement has cracking noise in D mode/higher gears and in R mode/lower gears. I will not mind it. But do you have any idea about why the differentials act strange? If I lift up the model and start spinning one wheel, it minimally rotates the opposite wheel but rather the central differential. So it's easier for it to transfer energy towards the grey differential itself rather than the small yellow gears moving only. For you, the central differential is basically still when you spin one wheel. It's the same for me before and after flipping the orientation. Last question for the future: when you build the model from scratch, do you build everything very tight/snug or intentionally leave a minimal gap between moving and non-moving parts (for example next to all gears, etc.)?
Only I assembled the second stage of the assembly checked and everything creaked, then checked the cardan and reassembled the second stage still creaks in fourth gear 2 weeks have passed, looked at everything checked too much load on the input shaft in the gearbox and the plastic does not withstand such a load in vain. Can you recommend something?
Man, thank you so much for posting this! It's so frustrating that after spending days and finished the build the engine doesn't work and it's so difficult to change/fix it.
Love your videos! I finally got around to building this set. I don’t have any cracking - it rolls smoothly. But when I change the gears it doesn’t seem to have any effect. I’m really confused. The L/H , +\- wheel works, and shifter. They all work, and I see the movement of the parts. But when I roll the car the engine block doesn’t move. 🤷🏻♂️
Ok, i wanted to put this out there. I recently built the land land rover and experienced ABSOLUTELY NO problems with it. I have no idea why people are having issues
You are very lucky believe me ! Me twice that I go up meticulously and 2 times that it cracks (a u-joint even ended up breaking), to go crazy. So that I built the 42082 without problem which contains much more parts and gears than this Land Rover ....
@RacingBrick Hope you see this comment. First of all, thank you so much for the solutions! :) I have a question. I am at step 336 and decided to check the drive train, gearbox and etc. I noticed a problem which may not be a problem, or not a major problem: ONLY AT 3rd and 4th gear in HIGH gear selected, the drive train seems to have some kind of difficulty in turning. No cracking sound but creates a temporary resitance (or temporary block) of the drive train which is strong enough to block the RIMS as they have weak grip on especially hard surfaces. The resistance is not strong enough to block the tires. When I ignore the problem and drive the car with rims anyway with a little down force, I can beat the resitance of the drive train which compansate the correct amount of axle turns that it resisted before. To put it another way, when it is free from the abnormal resistance, the drive train and the engine turns faster than it's supposed to turn, recovering the turn losses caused by the abnormal temporary block. I followed your guide but couldn't find anything similar. Do you have a guess?
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Please check the full guide here with the issues and symptoms listed - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
You are amazing!
@RacingBrick Hello dear fellow! I got a probably silly question, why put the red tough spring in front of the grey soft spring? I was wondering this because I got the idea of putting it the other way around to first have a soft bump onto obstacles and then have a tight stopper for the bump! As in you drive onto a rock and have the soft spring Feathering in (I don't know how else to word this, what I mean is the spring stick to slide into the outta pipe, hope this is helping to understand my shitty English lol) and letting the bump push the front wheels up and then having the tough spring in the back of the two spring front suspension to absorb the last bit of energy to have a "more comfortable" "driving experience", I don't know if this makes any sense and would love to hear your opinion on this 😂 (and everyone's else's thoughts as well!)
@@Marlon_J. there's no real "driving experience" with a non-motorized LEGO car :) You can play around with the springs but I think the hardness-softness was tuned to keep the body level, so the designer was mostly considering the weight of the car.
@@RacingBrick ah alright, thx man! And yeah to the experience thing, it's hard for me to find the best words sometimes 😂
@RacingBrick
I unfortunately placed the front wheel differential facing top. How should I place it to bottom without damaging the model? Help me...
"As you see you really get the full Landrover owner's experience with this car"!!!! Great video. I don't even own the model (yet) and thought it was outstanding!
@Racing Brick - thank you for sharing your passion, with those of us who were stranded, with a distraught young child, unaware of what was wrong with their LEGO set, that they have been working on for the past 4 months. It wouldn't roll, because the back tires were blocked. After watching your video, I easily fixed the problem, and because of you - I look like a hero. For that - I THANK YOU.
Thank you for the nice words, I'm really glad I could help!
You do a fantastic job with these videos. The camera angles, the verbal explanations and the hand demonstrations are top quality and extremely easy to follow along with. My hat is off to you, sir.
You are a SAVIOUR my Friend !! I had the rear axle not moving and after hours of building this it was a disappointment. Following you superb instructions, the sorrow turned to joy in a few mins. Thanks a ton for posting so much helpful information. You ROCK !!!
How did you fix the rear axle?
You sir deserves my sub after you have poured your heart out on this in-depth Lego tutorial. Keep on keeping on!
Thank you so much for your trouble shooting guide. My 12 year old son spent days building it only to find that the rear suspension didn't work. Your detailed video helped us to discover the problem and fix it within minutes. It saved a lot of stress and tears! Thank you.
Thank you so much for doing all this work and solving all the different issues people have with correctly assembling this complex model. This is a very in depth guide and I, for one, am very grateful for your gift to the LEGO world!
Amazing video. It was so frustrating to had the back differential and back wheels stucked. My wife helped me realize I got step 65 wrong, this video could have saved me a couple hours of my life and an epic discussion with her. Greetings from Mexico
Racing brick, your videos and content are absolutely superb!, i had a problem with the rear wheels not turning, i started fault finding and found an issue with the rear part of the vehicle and found the culprit,
now thanks to this video you helped massively, tiny correction of turning around 1 piece solved it, now everything works fine, so thank you very much and take care.
I'm really glad I could help, thank you for the nice feedback!
Sounds like we had the same problem, step 65. Thank hod for this vid I would never have found the issue without it!! 🙏🏻
@@gzbg21 Hi there, an yes its one of those pieces that can fit in both ways an very easily missed, an yea definitely seems pretty common, but yea so glad i found this video too, happy building 😉👍
What an amazingly detailed video...my son went wrong at step 65 and it was stopping the rear wheels turning, thanks for posting such great help 😃
Great guide! I must have re-watched it a hundred times by now - probably peaked between the time I ordered this set and as I watched its delivery status to finally reach me. The review of the correct setup of the transmission and gearing was unbelievably helpful however at higher (fixed/reversed lower)+HI gear there's still some cracking and push back from the system - my guess is with so many cogs and shafts the issue lies in the friction between plastic parts rather than build error, but it gives me an excuse to strip it down and build it up again. Also the droopy suspension might depend on the "freshness" of the springs or maybe which one is closer to the axles - red+grey up front seems to be doing a good enough job (with the red being at the centre of the axis). Anyway, I am hooked (again) on Lego partially because of you and looking forward to more inspiring reviews!
"as you see you get the full landrover experience with this car"
My Land Rover had those cracks and tried everything in the video. Finally, the solution was to disassemble (saving the exterior parts as shows in the video) and assemble again. Now works fine, so don't desperate if you have to rebuild, just make sure many times that mechanical drivetrain works smoothly.
Thank you so much for step 65, it's beautifully explained! I was so frustrated and my hands hurt from the pointy gears trying to fix it...thank you
Thank you. Four hours of repeatidly assembling , dissasembling and reassembling the same module..then I found this video and ( after calling myself all sorts of idiots) I sorted my problem.
What I found out is that the fake engine is the biggest cause of the gears getting stuck. The crankshaft needs to hit the pistons with some force, if not, they get stuck and the gearbox gets stuck which makes the wheels get stuck.
The crankshaft from the manual fires 2-1-1-2. If you change it to 2-1-2-1, you'll get a better balanced force that goes through the fake engine. Definatly helped for me!
I've also build the version from jb70 from rebrickable, that drivetrain moves smoother because there are no u-joints. He did a great job redesigning the drivetrain, also fixes the Hi-Lo sticker working correctly. Would recommend it to everyone.
Also Racingbrick, you're awesome doing all the video's on this set. It's a great set to build and to have, and helping people having problems is always a good thing!
SEE ENGLISH VERSION BELOW FRENCH
Oh mec, c'est exactement sur ce dernier point que je me suis penché hier, après avoir cassé une pièce. Comme toi j'ai trouvé que les pistons moteur à eux seuls étaient difficiles à entraîner. ça me rassure que je ne suis pas le seul à imaginer ce problème. Peux-tu montrer les photos du vilebrequin/de l'axe moteur corrigé. As-tu lien de la vidéo où il modifie le système avec les arbres de transmission (en espérant qu'il ne faille pas d'autres pièces que celle du set sinon pas envisageable pour moi). Mais changer la hauteur ou la configuration des pistons me semble être une voie à explorer. Faut juste voir comment réorganiser le jeu de pistons. Inverser les deux différentiels d'axe pour faciliter la marche avant au détriment de la marche arrière (qui je pense n'utilise quand même pas la totalité de la transmission) peut résoudre en partie le problème, mais à tester... Merci pour ton retour en tout cas !
EDIT : J'ai trouvé et regardé sur le site Rebrickable le MOC de JB70 seulement je ne vois nulle part où il a changé le séquencement des pistons par rapport aux instructions originales. Mais je pense trouver une séquence à tester lors de l'éventuel prochain remontage. Je viens de mieux comprendre le séquencement 2-1-2-1 que tu veux dire par rapport au 2-1-1-2 suggéré par le livre qui, je pense, déséquilibre l'inertie de l'axe. Et concernant la boite de vitesses, il supprime de fait les u-joint mais ça change pas mal la construction de la voiture mais surtout, il faut acheter pas mal de pièces en plus, du coup je vais devoir rester sur le modèle de transmission par u-joint.
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Oh man, it's exactly on this last point that I looked at yesterday, after breaking a piece. Like you, I found that the engine pistons alone were difficult to train. It reassures me that I am not the only one imagining this problem. Can you show the photos of the corrected crankshaft / engine shaft. Do you have a link to the video where he modifies the system with the drive shafts (hoping that it will not require other parts than that of the set if not not possible for me). But changing the height or configuration of the pistons seems to me to be a way to explore. Just have to see how to rearrange the piston set. Reversing the two axle differentials to facilitate forward travel to the detriment of reverse (which I think still doesn't use the entire transmission) can partially solve the problem, but to be tested ... Thank you for your return anyway!
EDIT: I found and looked at the JB70 MOC on the Rebrickable site only I can't see anywhere where it changed the piston sequence from the original instructions. But I think I will find a sequence to test during the possible next reassembly. I just got a better understanding of the 2-1-2-1 sequencing that you mean compared to the 2-1-1-2 suggested by the book which, I think, unbalances the inertia of the axis. And concerning the gearbox, it removes in fact the u-joints but it changes a lot the construction of the car but above all, you have to buy a lot of parts in addition, suddenly I will have to stay on the transmission model by u-joint
@@crucqjeremy8762 The crankshaft change was my own idea. If you have some extra technic parts you can get a long way with the V1.3 MOC model. I've only made the drivetrain and the gearbox. I didn't changed the steering system or the bodywork like on jb70's design. You can always try and see how far you can get if you have some other Technic models you are willing to take apart, or if you can buy spare parts somewhere.
I haven't tested the 2-1-2-1 crankshaft with the standard LEGO model, but maybe that will be helpfull to make it run better. Good luck!
@@shampo0oLWD Je pense tester le vilebrequin en 2-1-2-1 + vérifier l'entiereté du modèle et des ajustements (comme suggéré par l'auteur de la vidéo), car pour le reste je n'ai ni envie d'acheter de pièces supplémentaires (déjà que je sais pas pour combien j'en aurais avec les 4 u-joints et les frais d'envois), ni envie de démonter le seul autre set Lego que j'ai (qui fonctionne merveilleusement bien, je serai capable de le casser lui aussi en le démontant.). Et merci !
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I plan to test the crankshaft in 2-1-2-1 + check the completeness of the model and adjustments (as suggested by the author of the video), because for the rest I have neither desire to buy parts extra (already that I don't know how much I would have with the 4 u-joints and the shipping costs), nor want to disassemble the only other Lego set that I have (which works wonderfully well, I will be able to also break it by dismantling it.). And thanks !
This might be the greatest support video on the internet. Thank you! Saved me hours of troubleshooting and rebuilding!
My rear wheels were spinning against each other and the car would not move. I was breaking my head to find where I went wrong and finally found your video. The mistake was putting the gray piece upside down after step 65. Your video (9:10) helped me solve it.
Same
I was having the same issue. Flipped the grey piece and now my truck only goes in reverse
Thank you so much! I almost gave up after I had to disassemble almost the whole thing after finiishing the chassis. After I had put together everything, the motor wasn't running. Fortunately it was just the diff - I admire your patience
What do you mean by that I might have that problem
Thanks RacingBrick, step 65 correction sorted me out. If both rear wheels lock out when trying to roll on surface I’d check this step. Excellent instructions.
The full Land Rover owner’s experience - truly hilarious!
This helped me a lot! On my Defender, the pistons wouldn't move, but after I changed the differentials like you did, it works just fine! Thanks so much for making this video!
Living in England I wanted to build a right-hand drive version. Our friendly designer Grohl says just mirror-build it, left to right. The box arrived today so I now have to try to get my head around building the chassis as per the instructions, but mirror imaging the build of all the drive train and steering. Wish me luck. This excellent video may come in useful
Did you manage to do it???
@WezleyBrown Yes. I did post somewhere that I did it. First time too with no mistakes. It's still sitting on my bookcase. A great mental test!
Thank you so much I put the front wheel differential in the wrong place and the engine was not working. So I did like you said and now it works!!!!!! Thank you again soooo much!!!!
I did the same mistake
Same mistake
Thanks for the help!! I wouldn’t even thought about the wrong orientation at step 65! Even taking it apart you explained it perfectly thank you :)
I just came across your youtube channel through recommendation. I immediately thought this guy must be Hungarian, and you are! :D
(Don't misunderstand me, your pronunciation is great, just for a Hungarian is easier to spot a Hungarian accent.
Szia! :)
Hát ez bizony ilyen :)
They should've used Constant Velocity joints in the first place.
There's a difference between a Universal and Constant Velocity joint.
But the cv is usually too weak unless you use the ‘mega cv’ included in real he Lambo
Thanks a million for the effort you put into making this guide; I would have given up looking for a solution if not for this video.
Legend! You just saved me having to take the complete build apart to figure out where the suspension went wrong. Thank you!!
Thanks a lot. Located my error myself (part of the fun) but verified it with your video before I put everything apart!
Thank you! I screwed up step 65, back wheels weren't spinning. Glad I found this video. Also glad it was such an easy fix.
The verification steps helped us a lot in diagnosing problems we had with the drive train! A faulty connection between the gearbox and the engine was the culprit.
Thanks for this video. Swapping a Ujoint seriously helped the chunky gearbox/ engine operation. Nice subtle Land Rover maintenance burn
Thanks man. I haven’t checked it as yet but step 65 is where I muffed mine. Think you’ve saved me a ton of time. Legend.
Wow even the lego Land Rover has problems. It’s just like the real thing😂
True!
very true
i for sure find lego landrover a problem i am at screaming point just about to give up and make it a non working technic landrover
Hammond: you had a Land Rover didn’t you?
May: yeah
Hammond: did yours ever... What’s it called... um... Work?
I has problems
Coming late to sets seems like a great way to avoid these problems. I picked up an Osprey and already ordered the parts to fix it as it's being built.
Thank you very much for this. Step 65 error. I had a very frustrated son who had spent so much time building and couldn't get the wheels to turn. This fixed it.
Didn't realize people were having so many issues with a more advanced set like this. I think Lego reached the limit of what an average buyer can build as regards to complexity.
I guess a few verification steps are missing from the manual, like the ones we had for 42082. Once the model is built it is very difficult to find out where the problem is, unless you really understand how the whole drive train works.
@@RacingBrick wow, I thought the body came off easy... but that is not the case.
@@basberend it's much easier than doing the second part of the instructions backwards :D
The car is too complex for its own good, it doesnt need a working gearbox at all, especially the most complex one lego has ever made. It was inevitable that there would be gearbox problems.
as someone who recently purchased the land rover, this will be incredibly helpful! i love lego but even i would rather not take the set apart shortly after building it. thanks!
Be careful at all stages and pray that it works car it's a little lottery I feel.
Thank you for your help. Your explanations are very clear (I was victim of an old manual with the error at step 89 U joins orientation)
An amazingly helpful guide that helped us solve our construction problems quickly. Thank you!!
This is very VERY serious work. Thank you very much for the deeply detailed tips !
Can’t tell you how helpful this was! You’re awesome! 👏
For anyone else like me that has tried all the troubleshooting and still has issues, try this:
Locate the two gears meshed together - Tan beveled gear and red color gear, below the DNR selector on steering wheel side. On my model they were pressing together tightly which created friction. Any other friction on these gears eg. if they are sandwiched to tightly together on the axels, could also be a problem. Make sure both gears spin freely with no friction.
Its extremely subtle but after fiddling with these two gears for a while I got the engine to run smooth in al the high gears.
Dude, thank u so much, i had issues building it, but now its perfect
Thank you so much for the perfect information! I was having a few issues with the gearbox and your video helped with them all! Thank you!!!
Thanks a lot!
The dig at Land Rover earned your a subscription. I’ve rebuilt several real Land Rovers. 👍
Great informative video, which helped me solve a problem with the drive chain without tearing everything apart. Thank you!
Thank you for the tips and advice I’m looking to get one of these later this year and will use your advice greatly.
Thanks
Thank you so much for confirming my hunch about the "wrong cog at step 3" problem.
Oh man your video saved my life. The Lego manual mistake shown at 11:01 is the only thing I needed to fix. Now the gear works so great!
You, my friend, are a genius. I had the "droopy rear suspension" issue (bring on the jokes!), and your video immeiately pointed me to the problem. Fixed! Thanks for saving me hours of wailing and teeth-gnashing.
First ever technic build and everything was mint didnt have one single problem!! Just gotta be careful and double check your steps and match it to the picture and you will be good!
9:59: that was my answer for rear wheels that would not turn, thank you so much for this wonderful tutorial
I am new to this set. I bought it second hand for €75 as "defective" because rear wheels are running in opposite direction. I think that's a good price. I'll rebuild it and check your guide before. Thanks for your detailed information.
10/10 explanations and video and entire guide. You are the man
Awesome video, thanks. Somehow I made the error with the rear suspension. Glad it was such an easy fix.
Great video. Thanks for the help. A true Land Rover experience 😂
Thanks a lot! Found at the stage of completed gearbox that differential stock. With your guide fixed very simply.
And one more issue was found and fixed - messed with differentials sides. Easily fixed with your help!
Build the Defender with 7 years old son - fun 😂
AWESOME video and we appreciate your attention to detail! We may also appreciate LEGOs realism in terms of how unreliable LAND ROVER's transmissions are lol
Hello RacingBrick. I came across your Lego Land Rover videos because I recently got this set and (of course) I had the cracking issue. My model was cracking badly even in 3rd-High or 4th-Low. I checked all the possible issues in this guide, but still didn't manage to fix it. What did the trick for me was to re-build the front end of the car more carefully: all the gears built between step 206 and step 246 must have as little friction as possible, especially the gears that directly drive the fake engine. This is essential because in the high gears the output shaft of the 4-speed gearbox has very high speed and therefore very low torque. Any extra-resistance encountered between this shaft and the fake engine will cause the transmission to fail.
Thank you for sharing your experience! Unfortunately no careful building provides a long-term solution, if you leave your car on the shelf for a month or two, it will potentially start to crack...
Incredible! You are the king of gears!
Yes! Thank you, been trying to figure out the problem for a week
Thank you so much for saving my sanity with a mistake at step 56 which I discovered at step 200+
Thank you for this. It really helped figure out the problem I was having
Awesome vid. Even though i had already built this set, i was able to go through the steps and check them against my build. Thanks for your work.
You are a life saver thank you so much land rover is rubbing of their unreliability to the lego model ! Cheers
This is an incredible contribution. Thank you for all the time you invested in this!
Such an informative tutorial! Fantastic graphics to aid the explanations. Your hard work is much appreciated. Thankyou.
Can I ask what you used to produce the graphics? Did you have to enter each piece manually?
You mean the 3d model? That was built with LDCad, and you have to built it pretty much the same way as you build the real one, piece by piece :)
@@RacingBrick Thanks! I was just very curious. It looked so similar to AutoCad I used years ago but not for Lego! I had a feeling it would take a lot of time & effort to produce! The Defender kit will be my first Technic kit, infact my first Lego kit! Just waiting for it to arrive. Thanks once again. The information you provided in all your videos will make the build more enjoyable & successful. Cheers.
Wonder if lego designers actually do all the meticulous Tests that you do ?
I had all the problems mentioned and decided to put on shelves and only admire my handy work. Now I am thinking, if only this was available at the time!
I will still look at it on the shelf. Many thanks for the enlightenment :-)
Super work! Thanks very much. I will check the u-connector issue. Such a correct remark at the end! Full experience indeed!
Thanks for the video and for useful suggestions! I was thinking that my Land Rover had some problems and I've just checked it all with this video and there is all ok (btw, I reversed stickers for selectors based on your another vid)... But one thing is still annoying me is a delay of the engine working on low speed, and that it works far from smooth. But it looks like this is how it was designed. Overall, this is my first lego technic for 20 years and a great set overall.
If you check the amount of gears involved you'll understand the cause of the delay. LEGO is not precision technology, you have visible slack already with a handful of gears, and here there are dozens working the same time.
@@RacingBrick yeah, I understand that. I think that the weakest part of this particular machine is a universal joint. I know there is a mod for the chassis out there, but I'm going to leave it as it is
Thanks!
Thank you!
Yeah, you're right.. The get the experience for full and best ownership of the model.. Even though I don't own this model, That is a good video that can be used for other complex models to troubleshoot.. Even if the instruction were written/printed correctly, its human nature to make mistakes..
Such an amazing video! Thank you for the work you put into this it helped me out a lot.
Hey I have a problem which isn’t in the guide,can I reach out to you somehow to try and help with the problem
Great job! You solved many issues happened to me!
I bought one that was already mounted... I was like oh no, it's cracking, and direction won't work... I made a first repair by following the plan, then a second repair with your video... Still cracking, so I fully destroyed it and made the stadium truck proposed by the creator of the set... It is not as complex, but it won't crack... Once I will feel better about it, I might rebuild the original defender XD
Hi Balasz, wery nice vid.
Yesterday I bought a brand new Defender and I got stuck on step 321 inspecting the gearbox and stuff. I hear cracking noises and wheels move backward starting usually on the 3rd gear. After further inspection, I found out that problem is the weak outer u-joint connection, that struggles to move the motor with the higher speed although aligned properly due to your guide and already fixed printed manual. When I disconnect it from the motor by removing the one gear that follows the red axle, then the red axle turns without any problem. Driving the motor manually through the red axle is smooth as well.
I guess this is the same problem as with your older defender but it is weird that sometimes a problem occurs sometimes not. I think it would be worth carefully compare your old and new defender maybe there is some issue other than luck during the building phase but I bet you tried.
Removing a section of the drive train makes it move easier so this is a kind of obvious resolution, but still not a satisfactory one for most :) Based on my experience it is possible to build the set without any cracking or tension building up, even with the fake engine connected, but it requires precision and very careful alignment of all moving parts and even the pieces holding them.
@@RacingBrick of course, it is not satisfactory to disconnect the engine since the moving engine with various speed is the purpose of having a gearbox, I wrote it down as a report from my investigation, not as a solution. :) But it's really weird, although the engine seems to turn smoothly, the gearbox output shaft struggles to move it in higher gears. Now I have the hard choice - try to rebuild it now or finish it and rebuild it later. :D
@@michaelfight7951 even though it seems to move smoothly it is an additional set of gears and then the pistons to move. On thing I did not try - and it would be interesting to test if you have a chance - is to see what happens if only the pistons, or certain pistons are removed? Is it the resistance of the whole fake engine section with the gears and everything that is already over the limit, or it is the fake engine itself?
@@RacingBrick removing pistons did not solve the problem. After several hours I have found the major cause of the cracking - yellow gear on the driver side below the steering wheel that drives the engine directly in the case of reverse. There was friction, probably caused by minor misalignment (weird is, that when the car was shifted into reverse this gear was moving well). After its removal, the car drives fairly okay, there is only occasionally cracking on the highest gear when pushed too fast. There is probably still some minor friction. Now let's find out how to put the gear back to avoid the friction. :D Overall, this model seems to be very sensitive for any friction caused by the misalignment of some parts, not pushing pins fully, etc. even by 0,00000000000000000000001 mm.
thank you very much for this video. finally solved my problems with the defender !
Thanks so much for this!
Unfortunately even after aligning to U joints properly i still have that cracking noise.
Too lazy to disassemble.
Guess i'll just stick to reverse
How about neutral? Does it make the noise while in neutral? I'm about to start this build and all my projects are display pieces anyway
in my land rover in reverse every gear is smooth, but in drive its hard to spin a wheel and its gets harder in higher gears
A very useful video. Many thanks. I found the body removal part very helpful too.
wow , wish I would watch this earlier , just finished my build on last sunday and it doesnt work as it should . Did most likely all those mistakes , starting from very first one- used black toothed wheel instead of grey . No wonder I was short of black one later for my winch . Good job , now need to find time to correct all .
This was so much work!! Thank you very much👍👍
This helped me a lot when building the defender in November of 2021
Great video, you put a lot of effort and enthusiasm into this topic. I still have some problems, though. Is it possible that everything is assembled correctly but you cannot get rid of the cracking?
- When I first put together all working functions, there was significant cracking noise in D mode in higher gears or in HI mode. In R mode, everything seemed fine, no matter if I moved the car forward or backwards (I hope I remember clearly). Also, if the setup is one where there is cracking, when I lift up the car, the wheels start turning backwards, like coming out of some kind of resistance.
- Then I disassembled the model into the two main units to be able to check all the possible errors in your video and also do the verification of the rear unit at step 123. Everything seemed OK and working as in the video except for one thing:
- My differentials don't act the same as in the video. When you turn one wheel, the opposite wheel starts to turn immediately into the opposite direction, and only the small yellow gears are moving in the differential, the grey differential remains almost still. When I turn one wheel, usually the whole differential starts to rotate and it rotates the central differential or the main shaft, while the opposite wheel does not turn (or is turning randomly/rarely). I don't understand this becasue my differentials are facing the good direction and I don't see any other possible way to assemble the differential from scratch. Anyway, I haven't gone back to step 1 yet, and every other verification steps were exactly as in the video.
- After I checked everything, I assembled the working units again to give it a try. The cracking noise is the same in D mode in higher gears or in HI mode. But now there is also cracking in R mode but only in LOWER gears (not in high) and only if I move the car forward. So now my Defender got even worse. :)
Perhaps the short answer is that I should start the assembly again from step 1 but do you have any ideas about the potential problem based on the above symptoms?
The set can be built correctly and it might still make cracking noises. You need to find the perfect alignment of the parts to make everything work smoothly. Honestly if you don't nail it for the first or second time, I would not start over again.
@@RacingBrick Thanks. So far I've built it once, I only disassembled it until the separation of the rear and front units. But I decided not to fully build it a second time now, perhaps later in the future. By the way, I flipped the orientation of both differentials and now the cracking symptomps changed and decreased but still present. Now the forward movement is without cracking in all gears but backward movement has cracking noise in D mode/higher gears and in R mode/lower gears. I will not mind it.
But do you have any idea about why the differentials act strange? If I lift up the model and start spinning one wheel, it minimally rotates the opposite wheel but rather the central differential. So it's easier for it to transfer energy towards the grey differential itself rather than the small yellow gears moving only. For you, the central differential is basically still when you spin one wheel. It's the same for me before and after flipping the orientation.
Last question for the future: when you build the model from scratch, do you build everything very tight/snug or intentionally leave a minimal gap between moving and non-moving parts (for example next to all gears, etc.)?
Only I assembled the second stage of the assembly checked and everything creaked, then checked the cardan and reassembled the second stage still creaks in fourth gear 2 weeks have passed, looked at everything checked too much load on the input shaft in the gearbox and the plastic does not withstand such a load in vain. Can you recommend something?
Man, thank you so much for posting this! It's so frustrating that after spending days and finished the build the engine doesn't work and it's so difficult to change/fix it.
Thank you so much for all the explanation and problem-fixing! :D
Now I understand more!
Love your videos! I finally got around to building this set. I don’t have any cracking - it rolls smoothly. But when I change the gears it doesn’t seem to have any effect. I’m really confused. The L/H , +\- wheel works, and shifter. They all work, and I see the movement of the parts. But when I roll the car the engine block doesn’t move. 🤷🏻♂️
You saved my lego set thank you very much I couldnt belive it works but it does.
Ok, i wanted to put this out there. I recently built the land land rover and experienced ABSOLUTELY NO problems with it. I have no idea why people are having issues
You are very lucky believe me ! Me twice that I go up meticulously and 2 times that it cracks (a u-joint even ended up breaking), to go crazy. So that I built the 42082 without problem which contains much more parts and gears than this Land Rover ....
@@crucqjeremy8762, turning the differentials (the crown wheels NOT on the driver side) helped me a lot.
@RacingBrick
Hope you see this comment. First of all, thank you so much for the solutions! :)
I have a question. I am at step 336 and decided to check the drive train, gearbox and etc. I noticed a problem which may not be a problem, or not a major problem: ONLY AT 3rd and 4th gear in HIGH gear selected, the drive train seems to have some kind of difficulty in turning. No cracking sound but creates a temporary resitance (or temporary block) of the drive train which is strong enough to block the RIMS as they have weak grip on especially hard surfaces. The resistance is not strong enough to block the tires. When I ignore the problem and drive the car with rims anyway with a little down force, I can beat the resitance of the drive train which compansate the correct amount of axle turns that it resisted before. To put it another way, when it is free from the abnormal resistance, the drive train and the engine turns faster than it's supposed to turn, recovering the turn losses caused by the abnormal temporary block. I followed your guide but couldn't find anything similar. Do you have a guess?
I want to cry this set has given me so much pain
Nice work! I’ve completed mine but the steering won’t turn. Any idea on how to fix this easily without starting from scratch? Thanks :)
It couldn’t move, I was crying….
After watching this video and got it fixed, I was tearing….
Thank you
thank you so much for the video, apparently i had one of the first versions with the wrong manual!