I think it would be a great idea to build the community fix using the free instructions and compare it with the original. Great videos as always, thanks!!
I'm 58yrs old and I started building lego sets about 4 months ago. I seen this set and fell completely in love with it. My 1st attempt at putting this together was a bad one. I spent the better half of 3 days (6hrs a day) putting this together only to have it not roll at all. So, after completely tearing it back down and restarting again. To hear that cracking sound you all are talking about made feel real good to know that I didn't mess up the build.
After having major clicking issues, I followed your guide and found nothing wrong with my build. I think I discovered the problem, and it lies in the gearbox construction. If you make any of the axles holding the gears too tight, there is too much force to overcome, and it leads to binding. My suggestion for anyone still having cracking, rebuild the set from the beginning. Take care building the gearbox, and make sure you check at every step that none of the gears are too tight, and spin relatively freely. After a complete rebuild, I made the gearbox pins just slightly looser, and everything works perfectly.
I got this set with a discount for 120 Euros and I still consider it a sweetspot in the Supercar-ish technic lineup. Thanks for all your effort and insight concerning the drivetrain.
I already give-up mine since 2020. After spend so many hours fixing it according to RacingBricks blog. After few months the cracking sound still back due to aging/earth gravity/dust. If one day, all gear can be made with Titanium material, that will be the final solution for cracking sound.
Balázs, since you have gone so far with this set, I think you should definitely cover up this MOD, which just makes this set as "ultimately playable" as you can get! I have built the pimped version a few weeks ago, and it definitely improves things in all the gears, low or high. One of its advantage is the removal of all universal joints in the drivetrain, but also the speed differenciation between gears is more noticeable, with no cracking noise. As for other improvements, I would say that the most impressive one is the easy-to-remove body, which only involves a few red pins: so easy and efficient! The instructions of this MOD have both a pros and a cons: they are much more difficult to follow that LEGO's ones (everything is shrinked from 500 to 200 pages), sometimes with parts which you have to deduce the location for. However, for those who have already built the original set, it is just like re-discovering it completely, because the whole drivetrain is modified, and also because the all-in-one body is built completely separately. Great experience, indeed! We should also mention the needed parts needed to build this MOD, but the number is not enormous (168) and they are quite common for any Technic collector.
Thanks for this analysis. I did not have any issue building it the first time and did not notice any cracking noise in high 4th or any other gears. Then I noticed the cracking issue being faced by many on the internet and tried to replicate it. Only after pushing the car very hard in 4th high gear that I started hearing the cracking noise. In fact, I pushed it so hard that the universal joints broke. So, may be I am in the minority group that did not face this issue with normal use. I do however, take my time in building technic sets making sure that every step is done and if possible tested to make sure everything is working as expected. The only other observation (which is true for all technic sets in general) is that when engaging driving rings, it takes a while for the power to transmit from input to output, thus introducing a kind of lag, if you will. As a result, when pushing the vehicle, it rolls freely for some time before the pistons start running. Since there are quite a few driving rings involved in the drivetrain, that lag is substantial and is quite noticeable. I think they should re-design the driving rings to have as many engagement points (for a lack of better words) as possible, as current 4 (I believe) are not sufficient
Yes please to the Pimp up my Land Rover and any other possible fixes. I recently bought this set, but have delayed building it because I know the clicking will frustrate me, so it would be both informative and helpful to see your possible solutions.
Would love to see that comparison build of the fan design 👍. Actually a timely video on this as really want to buy the Land Rover before it retires. Have been putting off for ages as other sets have got in the way.
Hello, yep i rebuilt mine twice at first trying to be as careful as possible with the way i was assembling the drivetrain. Only to find the cranking noise wont go away. The third time i 100% followed the "Pimp up" version and i have to say it feels like day and night now. I highly recommend this redesign 👍
I know in my lego nascar technic the piston would clog up and i kept thinking it was the gears but when i took them out it was no longer. The gears in the differential were slipping or the main gear on the diff was slipping because the pistons in the motor mount were catching the system.
I built this set roughly two years ago, when I was roughly 12 years old, and I managed to build it with just three mistakes, those also were very easy to fix, but I never experienced the cracking sound, and two years later, still no cracking!
I bought 42099 & 42110 and quickly tossed the chassis of 42110 in the LEGO bin and stuck the body on my 42099. That's one way to end the cracking noise lol.
Yes, please do the redesign! I am quite tempted to buy the parts [I already downloaded the PDF], but haven't gotten around to it. I built my Defender, experienced the cracking & resistance, and then rebuilt the entire thing from scratch... following your instructions, of course! It made it better, but not great. I leave it in the gears that have the least resistance for when my kids want to play with it.
As you said the solution may very for each individual but I have found a very easy fix that solved my cracking problem. I just removed the 16 teeth gear that connects the engine to the dnr gearbox. That way your gearbox has only drive and neutral but due to the much lowest resistance (because, as you said, the reverse gear is always engaged) the cracking sound stopped. Hope this solution solves your issues as well. If it did I would really appriciate it if you told me.
Mine just arrived yesterday and will start build this week. Will let you all know if i got the issue. As soon i finish it, i will transform it on an RC cara, so, i am positive that will not face this just because i will have to change everything i guess. Amazing explanation of the problem. Many thanks.
I built the pimp up model and I must say it solves all the drive train problems once and for all! That is the correct version of the Land Rover. Everyone who has a 42110 should rebuild it.
Okay, I just found out that Lego finally overworked the gears. I'm mailing them since years that they cant use this thick gears between 2 Lifearms with this tolerances. It has way to much resistance surface. I found similar problems in the Airrace Jet Gearbox and in the Buggatti which I never completed after that problems. With that new gear I might rebuild the problem Sets I got before :)
I came across your videos after researching technic. i haven’t put Lego’s together in years and am quite bored in my life and need something to help combat that boredom
I've build the "Pimp up my Landrover" mod about a year ago and it works amazing! The cost for all the extra parts needed is about 60-70€. It's not only improving the gear train but also modifying the way of how the body is mounted onto the chassis. Also the PDF instruction that comes with the mod is like you would expect it from a usual Lego manual. I'm amazed about all the "Pimp up my Landrover" mod and would highly recommend it!
60-70 €?? I have the needed 166 parts on a want list in bricklink. I could buy them from one seller for 10 €. Did you buy lots of other improvement parts, too?
@@ArinMatikkaa Hey, maybe prices may vary from country and seller and of course quality. Here in Germany it was about 60-70€ 1 1/2 years ago. And no, I only ordered the needed parts.
I built mine a month ago and the gears make zero noise and it all works as planned. My problem is the steering, it works but it’s rough turning left and right and the steering wheel is off centre when the wheels are straight. My Sian has the same off centre steering wheel.
Have a look at JB70’s “pimp my defender” MOC, I’ve built it this week end. It does not crack, issue has been eliminated replacing u-joint in the drive train.
Nem segít, ez tulajdonképpen tervezési hiba. Annyira a határon van a hajtáslánc bonyolultsága, hogy ha egyszer sikerül úgy összerakni hogy nem kattog, rövid idő elteltével akkor is szétcsúszik-összeakad valami annyira, hogy újra elkezdje.
@@RacingBrickEz megnyugtató, hogy nem én vagyok balfácán. Pedig még a tüskék irányára, meg az öntvényhibákra is betegesen figyelek. :) Kár érte. Ettől függetlenül a gyerekkori legózást újraindítván úgy 2 évtizeddel később ez a modell rántott vissza a legózásba (szerelem első látásra), és mivel sosem voltunk egy dúsgazdag család, így sosem volt túlontúl komoly Lego Technic-em. Éppen ezért is ámultam nyálcsorgatva, hogy mivé lett ez a műfaj... Köszi a válaszod Balázs, nagyon komolyan nyomod, le a kalappal! Következő "ámokfutásom" a 42160 lesz! 🙂
I got the imstructions from rebrickable to make (out of 2 land rover models) an extended version with 4 doors. while making this model on one page of the instructions it required a specific gear to be put in, however i had to replace it with a smaller one as it was too big to actually fit in and now fully built the wheels don't move (they sort of clonk and click a bit but won't turn) except in reverse but after a short distance one of the rear wheels starts to come away from the vehicle! I'm 90% sure it's due to this single gear as can see where the gears are getting stuck and it looks like the specific gear but can't be 100% sure.
just came across this video and whilst I haven't tested or noticed this with my Land Rover, I did notice this with my gt3rs last week. That car was built years ago and I don't remember it having any faults at the time I built it, but I did have the same cracking shown here along with general tension and the wind up effect you showed. I thought I may have messed something up with it but after switching gear, the issue went away, so it does look like the same issue as shown with this model. I would worry about all these larger technic sets with gearboxes getting this issue eventually as I'm pretty sure the Porsche was one of the simpler gearboxes, but still has this issue.
Great video! If you have the time, I would love to see the MOD, as I'm thinking of getting the set before it's retirement, and would like to know how well it works. :)
I don't play with my sets but simply display it. I don't recall getting the cracking noise. Mine has lights connected to the Bugatti so it looks good on shelves
In my opinion, the problem is the read fool gear on the front, because the shaft inside it rotates in the opposite direction. The friction in this case causes the cracking
I’ve decided to take it out of the shelf again and it still has the same problem with the cracks, even in Lo1 gear. I remember that I’ve watched that video to fix it countless times and at the beginning it’s fine but after few cm of moving it it still cracks. I’m sure that they didn’t really tested it before it went on sale
Thanks for your videos, I have been following your ultimate repair guide video to build and avoided all the mistakes, thank you! It worked great at the beginning, but the cracking started to happen and it was getting worse. I tried all the solutions and even swap the differential as the other guy suggested, but it was not improving much and seems got worse and it even start to crack in other gears. How i fix it? What I found at the end is all because of frictions. The gears and axles are too stiff, especially from the u-join to the fake engine and the engine pistons. I sprayed some Silicone-based lubricant to all the u-joins, axes and gears, including the engine pistons and now I can roll smoothly in every gears, even in Hi 4th gear without cracking! Please make sure to use Silicone-based lube as it is safe to plastic, dry and not messy, and does not attract dust. The one I use was WD-40 brand’s High Performance Silicone Lubricant. Please note not to use ordinally WD-40 as it is oily and will damage plastics. I am not sure if you call this cheating, but after all these are mechanical works, and it needs lubricant to work 😁
Just build the improved version from rebrickable. The gears change the right way around, the drivetrain is smooth and you can even remove the body after you finish. You do need to buy some parts though.
im considering myself as a more of a normal lego fan but i still like some of technic sets and find some really good looking and defender is one of them. what i dont like sometimes about technic is that mos of the build is inside structure nad u cant see it in the finish product and im not super interested in all the gears and stuff like that. i think that when u want set only to display and dont care bout mechanics its hard to skip some parts in build not like in normal lego cause u never really know the importancy of some parts till the very end
The issue is with the change of form around when Lego switches the 20T bevel gears from gray to tan colour. The 20T tan gears have sightly oversized teeth and slightly to small depth of cuts between teeth do they bottom out on certain meshings that should work okay on paper. LEGO uses these meshing pairs in their builds as if nothing happened.
As you see swapping the bevel gears does not solve the problem, so there might be some slight variation in them but that does not affect the performance significantly
@@RacingBrick if I understand correctly, you replaced the current tan 20t bevel gears with the new 20t straight cut gears and it didn't help. What I mean is, that the current tan gears have a different cut than first generation (old) 20t gears, which had a slightly different tooth profile. For example the rough terrain crane runs rough when built with the current 20t tan bevel gears, but rubs butter smooth with the old profile 20t bevel gears (usually gray)
@@MarekLewandowski_EE I understood your point. What I tried to point out is that the new non-bevel gears should run (theoretically) smoother than any kind of bevel gears, due to the smaller contact surface with the surrounding pieces. If these new gears cannot resolve or even improve significantly the cracking situation, then no variation of the different type of bevel gears could cause the cracking in the first place.
@@RacingBrick Hi, sorry, but this isn't right. The bevel gears do not have bigger or smaller contact area than the spur-only gears, at least not in a relevant way. The angled sides of the double-bevel gear don't touch when in straight mesh and the center is same width as the straight spur gear. What is, however, the issue is the way the teeth are cut. The nominal module for LEGO gears expressed in LDU is 1/8, which means that to mesh 20T gear and 16T gear an axle distance of (20+16)/8/2 = 36/16 = 2.25 LDU is necessary. Now, the current-production tan colour 20T gears have too high root diameter of the gear, the cuts between the gears are too shallow, as well as slightly too thick teeth, so they mesh best at slightly bigger distance than nominal. LEGO often uses non-nominal meshings, like the step 191 in Defender (20+24 and 20+12, both over the nominal axle distance), but there are sometimes meshings of 20+16 used in configuration where axles are offset 1 to the side 2 across, resulting in 2.23LDU distance instead of the 2.25. This wouldn't be an issue, if the teeth were cut deep enough and had enough clearance - but they don't, they are tight at nominal, so any reduction of mesh distance makes the situation only worse. This is compounded by the fact, that lego brick isn't 1LDU wide, it's 5-10% under, 7.8-7.9mm instead of 8mm, so depending on the stacking to get the axle offset, and exact bricks in use, the distance can be noticeably lower, than the theoretical 2.23LDU. This causes teeth to bottom out each time axles align so, that the cross arms point toward meshing gear pivot, as this axle position brings the gear closest to its counterpart. This is periodical 4x per each gear revolution, but depending on meshing every few turns both axles align this way causing a harder crash. So, depending on how the axles are aligned across several meshed pairs, the 'crashes' either spread out, or add up...
@@MarekLewandowski_EE if you check the side profile of the gears it is quite easy to see how larger the "flat" contact area is in the case of the bevel gears that potentially rubs against the surrounding pieces if they are not perfectly aligned for some reason. But regardless, I don't say you are not right regarding the different generations of bevel gears and how they can mesh. I'm still not sure this effect is significant enough to be the single cause of the cracking. I'm not sure if you already checked the teeth of the new gears from 42140 from this perspective and how they mesh, how they compare to the "problematic" bevel gears, that would be interesting to see if their usage should have a positive or same effect on paper. In the case of the Defender however, I still think the sheer number of gears used together with the 4 U-joints and a few not well secured suspension points cause enough different vibrations building up in the system that will have the cracking as an end result. But if you tell me the exact type/ID of "good" bevel gears to use as a test I am very happy to compare them to the ones in the set to see if there's any visible difference.
I’m waiting for the clutchless Z20 so I can test mine as I’ve found the new Z20 & Z12 gears do make a difference. I also found the the engine also adds it’s own resistance compared to using a traditional fake v8
I just let a pretty disappointing comment on your main fix vid... Thanks for this it really explains alot and thanks for sharing that MOC build I'm def. Gonna try it cheers ;)
Hi, great video, as usual! In my opinion, the Defender is one of the best sets available today : compared to the Ferrari and the Raptor, it's a masterpiece, and compared to the Sian, it's super cheap! I don't have this craking problem very much and, in fact, I almost never use the gearbox because it's cool but useless (like every gearboxes in Lego Technic). It would be cool if you could build the upgraded versions we can find on Internet to see if it's worth! Another possibility, could you, pleaaase, design an entirely new chassis with the new Buwizz Motor and 3.0 Pro to motorize it? It has been a while since you have made a model RC yourself, I would love to see it!
I am one of the lucky ones who has no cracking, but also a little resistence in the higher high-gears. Anyway, I rebuilt the car so it is remote control, so I don‘t have any trouble with cracking :)
I have this set and it clicks in any forward gear, but not in reverse. It happens when I join the two sides of the body, meaning I probably messed up the alignment
Hi! About "scratching".. Did you checked differential satellites? I had same troubles, whith my chineese lego f1. It was ok, till i disided to install motor and battery. On speed, under load, the satellites pop out of the cross rod, and appers "scratching".
I guess this is the reason why I got it on discount at the supermarket for only 95€. I'd like to find an easy solution to the cracking, but of course, with such a price cut I can't really be too annoyed...
@@RacingBrick I can understand, fast gear makes engine go fast. I've always just liked accuracy and it's cool to be able to hook a motor up to the Lego engine and have the gears shift the right way
This problem can be solved very simply, you just need to replace two gears in the gearbox, in the place where the smallest gear pushes the largest. The smallest one needs to be replaced with a gear with twelve teeth, and the largest with a gear with twenty teeth. To do this, you can use blue gears like in the video or black ones of the same size. Не благодарите.
Hi there. I just bought this kit. What gear parts do I need to buy to prevent the cracking noise, and at what stages do I need to replace the gears from those included with the kit? Thanks for your help! Your videos are awesome! 😊
Thank you again for another detailed build review. Can you say if this set is retiring any time soon? I dont have this set yet and hope to find it in my local Lego store but currently sold out.
Hi, instead of cracking i found that there is too much slip between the wheels and the engine. I know that if it makes sense if the engine were to be driving the wheels because that's the point of the differentials, but it is kind of losing the effect of having the engine engaged to the wheels. Is this how it should be or do i have some misalignment?
You can replace the differential bevel gears with half stud bevel with a half stud washer Edit: i think the main problem is the pistons in the fake engine jammed the crankshaft... My solution is to replace the 3 or 4 stud axle to an axle with stop Make sure to put the stop side ABOVE so the pistons will be raised slightly and will lessen the friction
If you noticed the fake engine being upside down at the end, the reason for this is that I tested the model without the fake engine, and it was still cracking unfortunately.
the cracking has nothing to do with the gears. the problem with this is that people don't allign the universal joints in phase in this set when they build it. And that results in cracking because out of phase universal joint leads to an rpm that is not constant.
Hi Balázs, could it be that the cracking noise comes from the cardan shafts? Especially from the joints. If they are not lined up correctly, they can couse some "bouncing" while turning. There is a video about it somewhere. (Of course I did not find it now. Cheers, Gábor
My brother found the best fix: he let’s it in neutral and calls it EV mode 😂
Haaaa absolutely genius 👌😂
Nice!
@@smokescreen5238 that’s what I said to him as well
@@toto-wolff yes
He has beat the system *New Achievement Unlocked*
I think it would be a great idea to build the community fix using the free instructions and compare it with the original. Great videos as always, thanks!!
does any body have a link to the community fix instructions please? Thanks
@@bigfilsingsearch for "pimp my defender" on rebrickable.
There's a pdf full building instruction free
@@NicolasCharretier Thanks very much
My Landrover does crack really bad. But I think it’s characteristic because real Landrovers are always broken to.
💀
I'm 58yrs old and I started building lego sets about 4 months ago. I seen this set and fell completely in love with it. My 1st attempt at putting this together was a bad one. I spent the better half of 3 days (6hrs a day) putting this together only to have it not roll at all. So, after completely tearing it back down and restarting again. To hear that cracking sound you all are talking about made feel real good to know that I didn't mess up the build.
After having major clicking issues, I followed your guide and found nothing wrong with my build.
I think I discovered the problem, and it lies in the gearbox construction. If you make any of the axles holding the gears too tight, there is too much force to overcome, and it leads to binding.
My suggestion for anyone still having cracking, rebuild the set from the beginning. Take care building the gearbox, and make sure you check at every step that none of the gears are too tight, and spin relatively freely.
After a complete rebuild, I made the gearbox pins just slightly looser, and everything works perfectly.
I got this set with a discount for 120 Euros and I still consider it a sweetspot in the Supercar-ish technic lineup. Thanks for all your effort and insight concerning the drivetrain.
I already give-up mine since 2020. After spend so many hours fixing it according to RacingBricks blog. After few months the cracking sound still back due to aging/earth gravity/dust. If one day, all gear can be made with Titanium material, that will be the final solution for cracking sound.
Balázs, since you have gone so far with this set, I think you should definitely cover up this MOD, which just makes this set as "ultimately playable" as you can get!
I have built the pimped version a few weeks ago, and it definitely improves things in all the gears, low or high. One of its advantage is the removal of all universal joints in the drivetrain, but also the speed differenciation between gears is more noticeable, with no cracking noise.
As for other improvements, I would say that the most impressive one is the easy-to-remove body, which only involves a few red pins: so easy and efficient!
The instructions of this MOD have both a pros and a cons: they are much more difficult to follow that LEGO's ones (everything is shrinked from 500 to 200 pages), sometimes with parts which you have to deduce the location for. However, for those who have already built the original set, it is just like re-discovering it completely, because the whole drivetrain is modified, and also because the all-in-one body is built completely separately. Great experience, indeed!
We should also mention the needed parts needed to build this MOD, but the number is not enormous (168) and they are quite common for any Technic collector.
Awesome! Can you provide the link for the instructions please? Thanks!
Pimped up is the best. I think I'll revisit it and replace bevel gears, the pimping will be even more intense 👍
@@kevinpeng8295 just search "Pimp my Land Rover lego"
@@kevinpeng8295 it is on rebrickable by jb70
Thanks for this analysis. I did not have any issue building it the first time and did not notice any cracking noise in high 4th or any other gears. Then I noticed the cracking issue being faced by many on the internet and tried to replicate it. Only after pushing the car very hard in 4th high gear that I started hearing the cracking noise. In fact, I pushed it so hard that the universal joints broke. So, may be I am in the minority group that did not face this issue with normal use. I do however, take my time in building technic sets making sure that every step is done and if possible tested to make sure everything is working as expected. The only other observation (which is true for all technic sets in general) is that when engaging driving rings, it takes a while for the power to transmit from input to output, thus introducing a kind of lag, if you will. As a result, when pushing the vehicle, it rolls freely for some time before the pistons start running. Since there are quite a few driving rings involved in the drivetrain, that lag is substantial and is quite noticeable. I think they should re-design the driving rings to have as many engagement points (for a lack of better words) as possible, as current 4 (I believe) are not sufficient
I see, I thought I was the only one that was facing the problem of lag!
Yes please to the Pimp up my Land Rover and any other possible fixes. I recently bought this set, but have delayed building it because I know the clicking will frustrate me, so it would be both informative and helpful to see your possible solutions.
Got mine year and a half ago for 110€ on sale! Fantastic set and yes, i would like to see improved version!
I think it would really interesting to see a comparison to the fan version
Would love to see that comparison build of the fan design 👍. Actually a timely video on this as really want to buy the Land Rover before it retires. Have been putting off for ages as other sets have got in the way.
Yes please, show us the community redesign!
Hello, yep i rebuilt mine twice at first trying to be as careful as possible with the way i was assembling the drivetrain. Only to find the cranking noise wont go away. The third time i 100% followed the "Pimp up" version and i have to say it feels like day and night now. I highly recommend this redesign 👍
After adjusting the universal joints on 42110, I totally eliminated the cracking with silicone spray lubricant. Works perfectly now!
I know in my lego nascar technic the piston would clog up and i kept thinking it was the gears but when i took them out it was no longer. The gears in the differential were slipping or the main gear on the diff was slipping because the pistons in the motor mount were catching the system.
I built this set roughly two years ago, when I was roughly 12 years old, and I managed to build it with just three mistakes, those also were very easy to fix, but I never experienced the cracking sound, and two years later, still no cracking!
I love the Lego Defender because tbh I don't use the gears. I've customised mine with carbon fibre too and black bumpers and arches
I bought 42099 & 42110 and quickly tossed the chassis of 42110 in the LEGO bin and stuck the body on my 42099. That's one way to end the cracking noise lol.
I love that you’re uploading so many new videos nowadays
Yes, please do the redesign! I am quite tempted to buy the parts [I already downloaded the PDF], but haven't gotten around to it. I built my Defender, experienced the cracking & resistance, and then rebuilt the entire thing from scratch... following your instructions, of course! It made it better, but not great. I leave it in the gears that have the least resistance for when my kids want to play with it.
Would love to see you build the Pimped Up version of the Rover. This vehicle fascinates me a lot
As you said the solution may very for each individual but I have found a very easy fix that solved my cracking problem. I just removed the 16 teeth gear that connects the engine to the dnr gearbox. That way your gearbox has only drive and neutral but due to the much lowest resistance (because, as you said, the reverse gear is always engaged) the cracking sound stopped.
Hope this solution solves your issues as well. If it did I would really appriciate it if you told me.
Mine just arrived yesterday and will start build this week. Will let you all know if i got the issue. As soon i finish it, i will transform it on an RC cara, so, i am positive that will not face this just because i will have to change everything i guess. Amazing explanation of the problem. Many thanks.
I built the pimp up model and I must say it solves all the drive train problems once and for all! That is the correct version of the Land Rover. Everyone who has a 42110 should rebuild it.
More and more years equals more and more grinding
Gotta love waking up to a new RB video! 😆👍👍
Okay, I just found out that Lego finally overworked the gears. I'm mailing them since years that they cant use this thick gears between 2 Lifearms with this tolerances. It has way to much resistance surface. I found similar problems in the Airrace Jet Gearbox and in the Buggatti which I never completed after that problems. With that new gear I might rebuild the problem Sets I got before :)
I came across your videos after researching technic. i haven’t put Lego’s together in years and am quite bored in my life and need something to help combat that boredom
I've build the "Pimp up my Landrover" mod about a year ago and it works amazing! The cost for all the extra parts needed is about 60-70€.
It's not only improving the gear train but also modifying the way of how the body is mounted onto the chassis.
Also the PDF instruction that comes with the mod is like you would expect it from a usual Lego manual. I'm amazed about all the "Pimp up my Landrover" mod and would highly recommend it!
No cracks?
@@damararyohanggoro9162 No. They are completely gone!
@@stefanhaler8114 need to revise mine then 😂
60-70 €?? I have the needed 166 parts on a want list in bricklink. I could buy them from one seller for 10 €. Did you buy lots of other improvement parts, too?
@@ArinMatikkaa Hey, maybe prices may vary from country and seller and of course quality. Here in Germany it was about 60-70€ 1 1/2 years ago. And no, I only ordered the needed parts.
I built mine a month ago and the gears make zero noise and it all works as planned. My problem is the steering, it works but it’s rough turning left and right and the steering wheel is off centre when the wheels are straight. My Sian has the same off centre steering wheel.
Have a look at JB70’s “pimp my defender” MOC, I’ve built it this week end.
It does not crack, issue has been eliminated replacing u-joint in the drive train.
Ha sosem jövök rá a problémára, akkor is kedvenc marad! De basszus, nem hiszem el, hogy nem sikerül megoldanom ezt a jelenséget. Újraépítem!
Nem segít, ez tulajdonképpen tervezési hiba. Annyira a határon van a hajtáslánc bonyolultsága, hogy ha egyszer sikerül úgy összerakni hogy nem kattog, rövid idő elteltével akkor is szétcsúszik-összeakad valami annyira, hogy újra elkezdje.
@@RacingBrickEz megnyugtató, hogy nem én vagyok balfácán. Pedig még a tüskék irányára, meg az öntvényhibákra is betegesen figyelek. :) Kár érte.
Ettől függetlenül a gyerekkori legózást újraindítván úgy 2 évtizeddel később ez a modell rántott vissza a legózásba (szerelem első látásra), és mivel sosem voltunk egy dúsgazdag család, így sosem volt túlontúl komoly Lego Technic-em. Éppen ezért is ámultam nyálcsorgatva, hogy mivé lett ez a műfaj...
Köszi a válaszod Balázs, nagyon komolyan nyomod, le a kalappal! Következő "ámokfutásom" a 42160 lesz! 🙂
I got the imstructions from rebrickable to make (out of 2 land rover models) an extended version with 4 doors. while making this model on one page of the instructions it required a specific gear to be put in, however i had to replace it with a smaller one as it was too big to actually fit in and now fully built the wheels don't move (they sort of clonk and click a bit but won't turn) except in reverse but after a short distance one of the rear wheels starts to come away from the vehicle! I'm 90% sure it's due to this single gear as can see where the gears are getting stuck and it looks like the specific gear but can't be 100% sure.
just came across this video and whilst I haven't tested or noticed this with my Land Rover, I did notice this with my gt3rs last week. That car was built years ago and I don't remember it having any faults at the time I built it, but I did have the same cracking shown here along with general tension and the wind up effect you showed. I thought I may have messed something up with it but after switching gear, the issue went away, so it does look like the same issue as shown with this model. I would worry about all these larger technic sets with gearboxes getting this issue eventually as I'm pretty sure the Porsche was one of the simpler gearboxes, but still has this issue.
I honestly wish I had the money to buy these cool technic sets
YES PLEASE BALASZ BUILD THE PIMP UP VERSIONNN!!! 🔥🔥🔥
The set is 20% off on the Amazon US website. It’s a great deal!
Yes I want to see you make the improved one
I did some research and at the time nothing was available so I finally just finished it. Its going to be on display anyways.
Great video! If you have the time, I would love to see the MOD, as I'm thinking of getting the set before it's retirement, and would like to know how well it works. :)
I don't play with my sets but simply display it. I don't recall getting the cracking noise. Mine has lights connected to the Bugatti so it looks good on shelves
In my opinion, the problem is the read fool gear on the front, because the shaft inside it rotates in the opposite direction. The friction in this case causes the cracking
you are a true legend !!!!!
I’ve decided to take it out of the shelf again and it still has the same problem with the cracks, even in Lo1 gear. I remember that I’ve watched that video to fix it countless times and at the beginning it’s fine but after few cm of moving it it still cracks. I’m sure that they didn’t really tested it before it went on sale
Thanks for your videos, I have been following your ultimate repair guide video to build and avoided all the mistakes, thank you! It worked great at the beginning, but the cracking started to happen and it was getting worse. I tried all the solutions and even swap the differential as the other guy suggested, but it was not improving much and seems got worse and it even start to crack in other gears.
How i fix it? What I found at the end is all because of frictions. The gears and axles are too stiff, especially from the u-join to the fake engine and the engine pistons.
I sprayed some Silicone-based lubricant to all the u-joins, axes and gears, including the engine pistons and now I can roll smoothly in every gears, even in Hi 4th gear without cracking!
Please make sure to use Silicone-based lube as it is safe to plastic, dry and not messy, and does not attract dust. The one I use was WD-40 brand’s High Performance Silicone Lubricant. Please note not to use ordinally WD-40 as it is oily and will damage plastics.
I am not sure if you call this cheating, but after all these are mechanical works, and it needs lubricant to work 😁
The Bugatti has the same problems too plz make a vid about it 😢😢😢😢😢😢
Just build the improved version from rebrickable. The gears change the right way around, the drivetrain is smooth and you can even remove the body after you finish. You do need to buy some parts though.
I never actually built the Defender. I bought it for 2 MOCs: The Jeep and Mad Max muscle car.
And those are amazing and have smooth functions.
Me too. My Land Rover was 2nd hand and already built. I love Land Rovers, but was really excited to build the WW2 jeep.
Mine was cracking too but it was in middle differential.
im considering myself as a more of a normal lego fan but i still like some of technic sets and find some really good looking and defender is one of them. what i dont like sometimes about technic is that mos of the build is inside structure nad u cant see it in the finish product and im not super interested in all the gears and stuff like that. i think that when u want set only to display and dont care bout mechanics its hard to skip some parts in build not like in normal lego cause u never really know the importancy of some parts till the very end
Interesting video and those new blue gears. Do someone know what is that software at 4:48? Interface looks old, but it's something new for me.
Thanks !!!!
The issue is with the change of form around when Lego switches the 20T bevel gears from gray to tan colour.
The 20T tan gears have sightly oversized teeth and slightly to small depth of cuts between teeth do they bottom out on certain meshings that should work okay on paper. LEGO uses these meshing pairs in their builds as if nothing happened.
As you see swapping the bevel gears does not solve the problem, so there might be some slight variation in them but that does not affect the performance significantly
@@RacingBrick if I understand correctly, you replaced the current tan 20t bevel gears with the new 20t straight cut gears and it didn't help.
What I mean is, that the current tan gears have a different cut than first generation (old) 20t gears, which had a slightly different tooth profile. For example the rough terrain crane runs rough when built with the current 20t tan bevel gears, but rubs butter smooth with the old profile 20t bevel gears (usually gray)
@@MarekLewandowski_EE I understood your point. What I tried to point out is that the new non-bevel gears should run (theoretically) smoother than any kind of bevel gears, due to the smaller contact surface with the surrounding pieces. If these new gears cannot resolve or even improve significantly the cracking situation, then no variation of the different type of bevel gears could cause the cracking in the first place.
@@RacingBrick Hi, sorry, but this isn't right. The bevel gears do not have bigger or smaller contact area than the spur-only gears, at least not in a relevant way. The angled sides of the double-bevel gear don't touch when in straight mesh and the center is same width as the straight spur gear.
What is, however, the issue is the way the teeth are cut. The nominal module for LEGO gears expressed in LDU is 1/8, which means that to mesh 20T gear and 16T gear an axle distance of (20+16)/8/2 = 36/16 = 2.25 LDU is necessary. Now, the current-production tan colour 20T gears have too high root diameter of the gear, the cuts between the gears are too shallow, as well as slightly too thick teeth, so they mesh best at slightly bigger distance than nominal. LEGO often uses non-nominal meshings, like the step 191 in Defender (20+24 and 20+12, both over the nominal axle distance), but there are sometimes meshings of 20+16 used in configuration where axles are offset 1 to the side 2 across, resulting in 2.23LDU distance instead of the 2.25. This wouldn't be an issue, if the teeth were cut deep enough and had enough clearance - but they don't, they are tight at nominal, so any reduction of mesh distance makes the situation only worse. This is compounded by the fact, that lego brick isn't 1LDU wide, it's 5-10% under, 7.8-7.9mm instead of 8mm, so depending on the stacking to get the axle offset, and exact bricks in use, the distance can be noticeably lower, than the theoretical 2.23LDU. This causes teeth to bottom out each time axles align so, that the cross arms point toward meshing gear pivot, as this axle position brings the gear closest to its counterpart. This is periodical 4x per each gear revolution, but depending on meshing every few turns both axles align this way causing a harder crash. So, depending on how the axles are aligned across several meshed pairs, the 'crashes' either spread out, or add up...
@@MarekLewandowski_EE if you check the side profile of the gears it is quite easy to see how larger the "flat" contact area is in the case of the bevel gears that potentially rubs against the surrounding pieces if they are not perfectly aligned for some reason.
But regardless, I don't say you are not right regarding the different generations of bevel gears and how they can mesh. I'm still not sure this effect is significant enough to be the single cause of the cracking. I'm not sure if you already checked the teeth of the new gears from 42140 from this perspective and how they mesh, how they compare to the "problematic" bevel gears, that would be interesting to see if their usage should have a positive or same effect on paper.
In the case of the Defender however, I still think the sheer number of gears used together with the 4 U-joints and a few not well secured suspension points cause enough different vibrations building up in the system that will have the cracking as an end result. But if you tell me the exact type/ID of "good" bevel gears to use as a test I am very happy to compare them to the ones in the set to see if there's any visible difference.
I think that the good idea to using community fix for the build
I’m waiting for the clutchless Z20 so I can test mine as I’ve found the new Z20 & Z12 gears do make a difference. I also found the the engine also adds it’s own resistance compared to using a traditional fake v8
Please do build and compare the custom version!
Well, as I bought the set to make the stadium truck and to get the pieces, no more cracking problems! XD
The wheel rims are now available in grey!
Please do a rebuild with the community fix!
Yea please build the revised version!!!!!
I just let a pretty disappointing comment on your main fix vid... Thanks for this it really explains alot and thanks for sharing that MOC build I'm def. Gonna try it cheers ;)
Hi, great video, as usual! In my opinion, the Defender is one of the best sets available today : compared to the Ferrari and the Raptor, it's a masterpiece, and compared to the Sian, it's super cheap! I don't have this craking problem very much and, in fact, I almost never use the gearbox because it's cool but useless (like every gearboxes in Lego Technic). It would be cool if you could build the upgraded versions we can find on Internet to see if it's worth! Another possibility, could you, pleaaase, design an entirely new chassis with the new Buwizz Motor and 3.0 Pro to motorize it? It has been a while since you have made a model RC yourself, I would love to see it!
No gear box = no cracking
@@cijaytheone exactly 😂
hi lololololololo
i love your videos so much that i watch a single video ten times !!!!!!!!!!!
This cracking started in my 42128 Heavy duty tow truck after a few weeks of sitting around, very confusing.
My set doesn’t have cracking issue as I built it pretty carefully. But I just thinly it has way too many gears to select from.
I am one of the lucky ones who has no cracking, but also a little resistence in the higher high-gears. Anyway, I rebuilt the car so it is remote control, so I don‘t have any trouble with cracking :)
Why doesn’t it happen on the Sian 42115?
It is a great set, it shows the builder has patience, something I no longer have at all 🙄
I have this set and it clicks in any forward gear, but not in reverse. It happens when I join the two sides of the body, meaning I probably messed up the alignment
Yeah build the pimped up version!
When will this set retire???
what is the name of the app he used for the 3d model of the defender?
Please build the "Pimp Up My Land Rover!"
Hi! About "scratching".. Did you checked differential satellites? I had same troubles, whith my chineese lego f1. It was ok, till i disided to install motor and battery. On speed, under load, the satellites pop out of the cross rod, and appers "scratching".
I guess this is the reason why I got it on discount at the supermarket for only 95€. I'd like to find an easy solution to the cracking, but of course, with such a price cut I can't really be too annoyed...
Why does the engine move faster in the high gears, wouldn't be the opposite? Or is it a visual thing.
This is apparently the LEGO concept for kids
@@RacingBrick I can understand, fast gear makes engine go fast. I've always just liked accuracy and it's cool to be able to hook a motor up to the Lego engine and have the gears shift the right way
❤❤
Yes please, build the community version by jb70. It uses no universal joints in the drivetrain.
I thought it would be cool if someone designed a modification to turn this into the 4 door Defender (Defender 110).
This problem can be solved very simply, you just need to replace two gears in the gearbox, in the place where the smallest gear pushes the largest. The smallest one needs to be replaced with a gear with twelve teeth, and the largest with a gear with twenty teeth. To do this, you can use blue gears like in the video or black ones of the same size. Не благодарите.
How do you fix the issue of it not rolling correctly?
Hi there. I just bought this kit. What gear parts do I need to buy to prevent the cracking noise, and at what stages do I need to replace the gears from those included with the kit? Thanks for your help! Your videos are awesome! 😊
You won't be able to eliminate fully the cracking, doesn't matter which gears you replace, that was the point of this video
Do yk where I could get instructions to build that f40 next to you on the shelf?
on lego.com ;) - www.lego.com/en-us/service/buildinginstructions/10248
♥️♥️
There’s a remote control rebuild moc by superkoala for the chaise that was the best fix I found
Give away of the old? Or new set????????? Pleeeeeeeeeease!?
Thank you again for another detailed build review. Can you say if this set is retiring any time soon? I dont have this set yet and hope to find it in my local Lego store but currently sold out.
The set is retired as of 2023. It may not be possible to find it available at a LEGO store.
@@darkwing11 thanks , does this mean the vale if this will go up on the collector market?
You should try the 8466. It is pretty bad for slipping teeth too in 1st, 2nd, and R.
Hi, instead of cracking i found that there is too much slip between the wheels and the engine. I know that if it makes sense if the engine were to be driving the wheels because that's the point of the differentials, but it is kind of losing the effect of having the engine engaged to the wheels. Is this how it should be or do i have some misalignment?
I haven't even had this problem
Great Vid on that issue. One question: What is the name of the software from 5:10 to 5:30?
LDCad
You can replace the differential bevel gears with half stud bevel with a half stud washer
Edit: i think the main problem is the pistons in the fake engine jammed the crankshaft... My solution is to replace the 3 or 4 stud axle to an axle with stop
Make sure to put the stop side ABOVE so the pistons will be raised slightly and will lessen the friction
If you noticed the fake engine being upside down at the end, the reason for this is that I tested the model without the fake engine, and it was still cracking unfortunately.
Thank you for video. Which program are you using for MOC ?
LDCad
@@RacingBrick Thank you so much for answer.
The gears in set 853 also crack
the cracking has nothing to do with the gears. the problem with this is that people don't allign the universal joints in phase in this set when they build it. And that results in cracking because out of phase universal joint leads to an rpm that is not constant.
I made several videos about the subject and did tons of testing, the phasing of the universal joints is only a single piece in a complicated puzzle.
Hi Balázs, could it be that the cracking noise comes from the cardan shafts? Especially from the joints. If they are not lined up correctly, they can couse some "bouncing" while turning. There is a video about it somewhere. (Of course I did not find it now. Cheers, Gábor
Please, tell me the name of the 3d program.
LDCad
@@RacingBrick Thanks
Can you do a review of the new optimus prime set?
As soon as it will be available
What software is that at 4:48?
LDCad