If you have any issues with the build please have a look at my ultimate repair guide - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
When I was a child, Lego was for kids. Now I’m an adult, Lego is for everybody. It doesn’t matter what age you are. When you see the engineering behind these Technic models, you know they were designed and built by engineers. Fascinating!
I agree. I am 65 years old and can't wait for the next big technic set to come out. I wasn't into Lego's when I was a kid (the Technic sets didn't exist then). Erector sets were my thing. I was in my 40's when the 8480 Space Shuttle came out and I had to have it. I have been hooked ever since. I still play with Erector sets and Meccano too.
@@RacingBrick If you switch the red & beige and the blue & grey gear is that sufficient to make the hi/lo work as its supposed to as in real life, or are there more changes necessary?
Found your video and some replies very thought provoking. Just finished gear box construction when I saw it, so decided to try and come up with some gearing numbers. Also, wanted to see if the Land Rover could actually be driven by gear box. Used Lego NXT motors and light sensor to try both. Attached motor to one of two gray gears on back of gear box to drive gear box 20 rotations, and count rotations of wheels using light sensor. Testing setup worked great after 3 days of NXT progarmming learning, only to find the Rover gear box is not capable of actually driving the car wheels except in 2 highest gears with no weight on wheels. Otherwise, the small size of the gears cannot handle the torque, and easily strip. Then set up to simply count number of rotations of the rear gray gears on gear box in relation to wheel rotation. Set up to move car 5 wheel rotations per test. Results are as follows, 5 wheel rotations: #gray gear rotations (rounded): High gear, Drive, First gear (lowest on +- selection) 5:2 High gear, Drive, Second gear 5:3 High gear, Drive, Third gear 5:6 High gear, Drive, Fourth gear (highest on +- selection) 5:8 Lo gear, Drive, First gear (lowest on +- selection) 5:1 Lo gear, Drive, Second gear 5:2 Lo gear, Drive, Third gear 5:3 Lo gear, Drive, Fourth gear (highest on +- selection) 5:6
Interesting design to split the gearbox into two parts - one up front and one over the rear axle. Two universal joint shafts provide the connectivity between these gearboxes. The range control and D/N/R is up front and 4-speed constant mesh gearbox in the rear for D mode. But therein lies the problem...the acute angles of those universals add a lot of friction/resistance and make it very difficult to spin the entire assembly in low gears, even with an XL motor with high torque. The use of four universals causes "surging" behavior in the spin and is not a good design. They have to be "just right" for smooth operation across all 8 gears. If you want to study the complexity of an 8 speed transmission then the Lamborghini is your better choice for a working model - it uses an inline, single gearbox and was done CORRECTLY out of the box with low gears generating higher engine RPM.
This video gives me a LOT of useful information for motorization. 1. D/N/R selector is between the gearbox and the diff, so the gearbox could be set to neutral and a motor could be attached directly to the driveshaft. 2. R bypasses the gearbox, so a motor could alternatively be put into the engine space, and not have to go through all the friction of the gearbox. This is important information, my friend!
This is a really great video. Thank you for showing how it's supposed to work. It's nice to see that when put together correctly it will function as intended. I put this together recently, but obviously I did something wrong, as the vehicle will not move smoothly when I push it no matter what gear it's in. It will move forward but makes a cracking sound. It won't move in reverse (the wheels are stuck). I took it apart and will try again! It's an incredible set and a fun challenge.
check if th differentials between the wheels are properly aligned. also make sure the cracking doesn't come from the ujoints: ruclips.net/video/0p1kMtrvFvQ/видео.html
I was having an issue with the gear train making cracking noises and hanging up. I found that the universal joint on the back end of the light gray shaft was hitting the teeth on the large gear end of the red differential housing. I pushed all the universal joints out as far as they can go against the frame of the model. Now everything works smooth with no issues at all other than the play from lots of gears.
I bought this set and yes, the gears were reversed, but if you have good memory and experience with lego technic its definitely possible to get to the gearbox after the car is built... although pushing and pulling the technic pins killed my fingers and some of the axles took godlike force to move, i still was eventually able to access the gearbox. but yes, i would definitely recommend just flipping the plus and minus and cutting and re-positioning the hi and lo sticker if you aren't planning on going through an hour of painful sequential deconstruction, even though my intention wasn't to change the gears, but rather to swap a 4 stud long axle with a five stud one in order to attach a universal gear to it in order for me to connect my own power functions. but anyway, most of that was useless info lmao
3:00 but wait... you're powering it from a constant speed from the wheel... so it should make the engine run different speeds when you adjust the gear... since power is being put in the "wrong end" of the drivetrain.. If you had the motor directly connected to the engine, the gears should work out the right way... right?
OH WAIT. I get it. It's like if you've got it in gear, and you're coasting down a hill and you downshift... the engine itself needs to speed up to match with the gearing... nevermind. :D
Think it again, the relation between the speed of the wheels and the speed of the engine should be the same, regardless which one is "driving" the other. The LEGO fake engine will never drive the wheels.
@@RacingBrick no the transmission depends on the direction. For example a 2:1 transmission turns into an 1:2 transmission if you power it from the other side (e.g. the wheels instead of the engine output shaft)
Surely the fake engine will never drive the wheels, but in order to judge if the model is correct or not I would assume it does as it would be the case in a real life car.
Mine runs perfect in all gears other than 4th Hi/Lo, I have tried aligning the UJ's and nothing has come of it, it seems to be almost missing on the same pistons as i push it forwards. 4 out of the 6 run smoothly then 2 of them jump and cause a cracking sounding like its coming from the gearbox... Its s frustrating arghhhh!!!
i got this set yesterday and have almost the same problem. But 4 hi on my defender runs terrible. It makes cracking noice but u-joins are correct. I tested it without output UJ (which is connected from gearbox to the engine) and there was no cracks. I think the problem is somewhere near the engine. And when i push the car backwards it runs perfect
Awesome! Though In a real car you would gradually upshift the gearbox as you accelerate faster ;) I think LEGO should give such models a thorough gearbox test run to ensure it works smoothly and effectively. I’m definitely going to create my own gearbox for this set, I love the overall look, just the gearbox needs tweaking. Great video!
Just a side note, the drivetrain is well built provided that you align correctly the cardan joints (one of them) and not as depicted in the instructions
@@RacingBrick yes indeed I just completed bag 2 and it will crack on max gear in D-Hi. I considered inverting the differentials as others suggest, but I decided to finish the build, enjoy it, disassemble it and leave it for the next time. No haste. Thank you for your videos again! PS: next time I rebuild the Defender I also plan to replace the 6L kindergarten engine for a more serious Technic V6 engine. It seems pretty straightforward given the free space.
I also had the pleasure to build it. It is definitely showing the right way of advancement in the Lego Technic range. Thank you for that. There is one thing though, that doesn't let me sleep: Why is it working the other way around? Specifically the Hi-Lo and the 4sp sequential. Btw the front bit of the gearbox, the Hi-Lo RND cluster is ingenious. :-)
You're making a fair point and the same explanation is poping up here and there. However Lego, as an educational toy should - I guess- demonstrate realistic concepts. From my point of view this excuse is similar to teaching kids that the earth is flat (because it looks like that if you stand on a field). Not to mention all the old sets featuring gearboxes have been designed the right way, and it did not confuse us the kids in the 80's, 90s and 00's. Instead I had the right concept in my head from my childhood about what a gearbox does actually as a torque converter.
One thing I haven't seen considered yet is the perspective of the fake engine. For LEGO Technic sets we push the vehicle to drive the wheels and move the fake engine, or as your video simulates by replacing one of the wheels with a PF motor. In a real car we turn on the engine and drive the wheels to make the car move. If you put the PF motor on the fake engine and watch the wheels move, is it still backwards or would it solve the problem?
The problem is not if the engine or the wheels move forwards or backwards. The problem is with the sequence of the gears and the corresponding gear ratio.
Sorry, I misworded my comment. I was referring to the sequence of the gear ratios when I said something was backwards. I was thinking that maybe the sequence of the gear ratios might look like they are in the wrong order when you put the PF motor on the wheel and look at the fake engine's speed. If you put the PF motor on the fake engine and drive the wheels, would the wheels seem like they go in the correct sequence of speed when you change the transmission? That might be hard to do though in real life, but it's just a thought I had.
I have a question I just finished my Land Rover and the gear box and the pistons aren’t moving when I’m playing with it without the electronics I’m just pushing it forward and backward and it wont move the pistons or the gear box. Are you supposed to use the electrical engine to get the gearbox moving and the pistons?
Push it forward at least 1m in D or R, you don't need any motors to see the pistons moving. If it still doesn't work check the link in the pinned comment for troubleshooting
@@chazsignora1777 there might be no ready-made solution to your problem in the article as I don't know exactly what your problem is. I suggest to check the video and compare carefully your build with what you see on the video. It might be beneficial to remove the body to have a better visibility on the internals.
What is that red shaft connected to the universal joint doing? 2:37 Your universal joints are not properly in phase. That’s why this shaft does rotate with a constant speed, but speeds up and slows down. I don’t know if that’s adding to any problems in the mechanism, but it clearly isn’t put together right. One universal joint needs to be rotated 90 degrees
The red shaft goes to the fake engine. The universal joints are properly aligned, double checked during building (interestingly the instructions tell you to apply one incorrectly). What you see is the effect of 40+ gears working in the drivetrain.
@@Sean-me4fv There are occasionally substantial price drops on these sets (especially in the first couple of years after release date). I bought dozens of sets this way, saving hundreds of dollars.
So I learned that if you swap the stickers they will be like a real car but there will be cracking noise if you push it real hard? Is there a way that I fix it?
It seems to me that Lego designed the reverse sequence of gears on purpose...because the fake engine is supposed to be driven via wheels by hand, not the other way around! (though it can be modified with electric power functions, this is how most people with it...)
The gear sequence should be the same in any cases, does not matter from which direction you drive it. At a constant wheel speed the engine should be the slowest in the highest gear.
@@RacingBrick well, what i mean is that the power is sent from the engine to wheels in a real vehicle, while the opposite in our case. In other words, we are ”driving” the engine to rotate. Thus, we need an inverse gear ratio (engine:wheel -> wheel:engine). Consequently, it needs a larger force for us to push the fake engine to run in the highest gear, analogous to that the real engine needs a larger force to push the car.
@@yuanz8053 I guess the reason for the reversed sequence is the general perception of the kids. Higher gear -> faster engine. Normally I'd accept this but in the designer video Milan said the main purpose of the huge and complicated gearbox is educational, to teach the kids how such system should work. If it is educational then a correct gear sequence should be used to show them how it works in a real car.
@@RacingBrick yes, agree with you on this, but the reversed gearbox can be somewhat educational as well in the sense that when it is hard to push the car (say, climbing a slope) we should shift down the gear ;)
Guys im onto step 100, and when I move the gearbox the back wheels dont turn, is that ok because at the moment im only on step 100? Also i only have the back wheels. Basically, at this stage, should the wheels turn when the gearbox is working?
the engine should rev higher just not this way it shoulda came with power functions and a controller the higher the rpm the faster the engine meaning u can get the car cruising and 4 motors 1 for shifting to lo/hi and transmission then one to drive and steer also this is a manual shouldnt it have a clutch? or is it a "fake" manual
So if I get this correctly, the sticker for the gearbox needs to be turned upside down (so minus on the left) and the high low selector sticker needs to be cut in half and placed the other way (so low at the bottom)
Did they ever fix the issue with the gears being the wrong way round, or even just change the labels? I'm not sure about your statement in the video saying it maybe being intentional for children ... when I was eight I had the 8865 test car and I thought the three gears were the wrong way round because the higher gear made the engine slower, but I was wrong. My mum wouldn't tell me why but she asked me to read books and work it out for myself. My mind was blown and it got me really interested in all things engineering. Not just why the engine was slower, but how gearboxes work, ratios, also why vehicles even need gears. I honestly think a lot of people just change gears because they learned to but couldn't tell you why. It really opened doors for me. Now in my 40's I still play with lego but also use it as a design tool. I think lego is *the* platform that gets children interested in this kind of thing from an early age so they kind of have a responsibility to make sure details like this are accurate.
Hypothetical question: If one would attempt to motorize this model, could it be done by replasing the fake engine w’ an electric motor (simulating a real engine) if the space would permit? And would the existing gears lower the speed enough in relation to the weight of the model to be able to drive it at low speed? PS. Might come of as a dumb question, but after seeing Zeronricks video, in my wildest Technics novice dreams I’m thinking if something similar could be achieved w’ motors & parts from the 42099. 🙄
You can't switch the gears, the bigger blue 20T gear won't fit in the place of the red 16T gear. It's easier to cut the Hi / Lo sticker in half and put them back swapped :)
The ‘cracking’ noise that people say they hear is actually the noise of the pistons hitting the plate to which the go through. Try opening the bonnet of the car and running along with it and which the pistons...
Which motor and hub is this called on the website? I would love to purchase this product so that I can run diagnostics on my defender. I’m getting a cracking noise as well. Thanks 🙏🏾
I had an issue with the gears not engaging at all when pushed forwards. I then thought to spin the central differential and the wheels started spinning in opposite directions! Any ideas??
Hello. I was hoping you could answer a question with this set. Does the fake engine operate when the gear is selected in D? I have finished my set and I cannot see the fake engine operating when D is selected. Sorry if I have missed this in your video.
@@RacingBrick thanks for the reply. I pushed it along today and it was making the cracking noise as per your other video and also tension built up in wheels to push the car backwards once I let go. Is there an easy way to remove the shell from the chassis so I can take it apart and investigate?
As far as I see it. all that is wrong with shifting the gears is that the labels for the shift controls were made backwards. Think about this. You turn a knob on a stereo CW to go higher and CCW to go lower. Turning the gear shift knob on this vehicle CW makes it go to a higher gear and CCW to a lower gear. Also as far as the HI-LO shifter goes, it makes sense to me that you would pull it back to go slower and push it forwards to go faster, like the throttle on a boat or jet. If the labels were just reversed, it would shift the way they are marked.
@@RacingBrick Thanks. I knew you could just turn around the +/- sticker. I guess you could cut the HI/LO sticker in half and switch their positions. I don't usually put the stickers on. I won't put them on this vehicle.
I just got done building through the first two sections of bags. When I move the car the pistons in the engine do not move up and down, and the gearbox doesn’t move with the car. Any advice?
Then you must have built it wrong..... I've just started on stage 4 and the gearbox in mine appears to be working correctly.... and the wheels should't go on until the end ! Am wondering how much work it is to reduce it to a chassis from the fully built stage
OK, I have finished building mine and had a sort-of similar issue on completion. Go to step 89 and the UJ's are shown incorrectly built. They need to line up on the shaft, not be at 90 degrees to each other. Fix that and it should be OK, a bit of a struggle and requires some disassembly of the finished model but it's only a few minutes work
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié. ____ If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
I think the gearbox is working correctly. If you replace the fake motor with a real one the revs of the engine will transfer to lower output on the wheels. But when you do it the other way - from wheels to engine the engine runs faster in lower gears.
The source of power does not matter. What matters is the relationship between wheel speed, the selected gear and the engine speed. With this gearbox layout you would still have an incorrect gear sequence even if the theoretical power would come from the engine and not from the wheels.
@@RacingBrick If you drive you car with constant speed (constant wheel revs (as when you apply the electric motor to the whell) and shift down gear revs on the engine should go up, right?
@@jacobaxelsen1975 yep, this means the engine is faster in lower gears at constant wheel speed. By default the set has lower engine speed in lower gears at constant wheel speed, so it's working the opposite way.
In my mind I can hear the discussion when the design of the set was started: Marketing Guy: "Land Rover asked us to bring a kit of their latest model to make the kids think it's cool even though it burns tons of fuel and destroys their planet." Designer: "You know, Lego Technic was invented to teach kids how technology works. We should come up with something like this again. Maybe we could put in a proper offroad gear box with hi/lo and stuff. I've seen a lot of MOCs so it can't be that complicated, I'll download some instructions right away." Marketing Guy: "Nah, better invent something on your own this time. Those MOC creators tend to be way too generous with the parts, it eats into the profits. Oh, and you got time 'till tomorrow." Designer: "Uhh, okay, I guess I can do it. And I'll make sure it works like the real thing to the kids can really learn something." Marketing Guy: "Actually I hate kids even more than those annoying AFOBs. You know what? Let's screw their little minds by letting the gearbox run the wrong way around. That'll teach them!"
What generator you meen? The Power Functions motor? That's an L motor but it is only used here for demonstration purposes, it would be pretty weak alone to drive the whole model.
@@RacingBrick Sorry I'm from the Czech Republic and I don't know much English So if we put in front and give hi or lo and give speed 1 to 4 so it starts to crunch in the transmission as if it slipped there. And I don't know what I'm doing
@@honziiik4937 I've started to build my land rover and I tested it at step 300. It was making cracks and so I decided to rebuild it and it works perfectly now. Such a fascinating set!
This can be a zillion things, you need to be more specific. Does it happen in R and D as well? Did you try in different gears? Did you push the car at lest 1 meter?
@@oliverpreece5512 so you turn the rear wheels and block the front ones, the engine works but if you roll all wheels then the engine does not run? What if you block the rear wheels and turn only the front ones?
@@oliverpreece5512 one of your differentials might be reversed, check them both should have the same orientation. You can see a shot of the correct configuration here - racingbrick.com/2019/09/decoding-the-gearbox-of-the-lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender/
Die Kardangelenke sind zu stark angewinkelt.Das mögen die nicht. Je größer der Winkel, umso größer sind Drehzahlschwankungen.Durch das zwei Gelenk werden diese Schwankungen neutraliert.Aber nur, wenn es 90 Grad verdreht montiert wird.Was hier aber nicht gemacht wurde.Daher verdoppeln sich die Schwankungen.
The real car has an automatic transmission. The model has a manual transmission. But then the car is a nice model anyhow, considering that Danes don't know anything about cars, and prefer bicycles.
Hey there, I have a question. I got in trouble, because after putting the gearbox and rear suspensoin together, the transmission don’t work proper anymore, because there are two gears locking each other. Did you have the same issue?😳 I hope you can help me out🥺. It is very beautiful, it would be very sad if it doesn’t work. Nice video👍👍
The cracks are always coming from the differentials at the front and back. They have an stiffness problem, so they crack back from the gear that is driven by the gearboxoutput. In the bugatti chiron they fixed this problem, by putting a counter gear on the opposite side of the gearbox frame. Could be solved the same way here🙂
I'm almost sure that's not the case here. The set has 52 gears (not counting the differentials), when the fake engine supposed to drive the fastest then you see the highest resistance in the system, there's a weak spot somewhere. But it only appears in an extreme situation so that's not really an issue with this set.
Sorry mate I drive a pick up and you’re wrong about Hi and Lo...Hi carries more speed but lower torque but Lo carries less speed but higher torque in 4WD. Hi is for loose gravel and dirt but Lo is when there are steep inclines up or down where torque and engine braking is required...the system isn’t reversed. But good video nonetheless
If you have any issues with the build please have a look at my ultimate repair guide - racingbrick.com/2020/04/lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender-ultimate-repair-guide/
How did you hook up the battery pack to the vehicle in order to see the inner workings without the wheels moving?
@@andrewgochenaur5647 I simply connected a motor to one of the wheels
When I was a child, Lego was for kids. Now I’m an adult, Lego is for everybody. It doesn’t matter what age you are. When you see the engineering behind these Technic models, you know they were designed and built by engineers. Fascinating!
I agree. I am 65 years old and can't wait for the next big technic set to come out. I wasn't into Lego's when I was a kid (the Technic sets didn't exist then). Erector sets were my thing. I was in my 40's when the 8480 Space Shuttle came out and I had to have it. I have been hooked ever since. I still play with Erector sets and Meccano too.
TinkeringJohn good for u man keep that inner kid in you alive
Nah man, the faulty gearbox is actually a feature to make it resemble the Land Rover reliability
Lmao
I drive real Land Rovers since 1996, always trouble, but even more fun.
Only old models tough, nothing newer than 1994. ;-)
Lmao
lol
@@Vassilika1 Yeah, because the old ones are the crappier and more problematic ones.
The new ones have no real issues.
To fix the transmission just put the sticker the other way :)
The hi/lo sticker would look pretty funny upside down..
@@RacingBrick the hi lo transmission looks like it is pretty easy to be build reversed.
Maybe we can switch the 2 gearing pairs between hi and lo gear and switch sticker +,- the other way round.
@@verypong1 that's what i said
@@RacingBrick If you switch the red & beige and the blue & grey gear is that sufficient to make the hi/lo work as its supposed to as in real life, or are there more changes necessary?
Found your video and some replies very thought provoking. Just finished gear box construction when I saw it, so decided to try and come up with some gearing numbers. Also, wanted to see if the Land Rover could actually be driven by gear box. Used Lego NXT motors and light sensor to try both. Attached motor to one of two gray gears on back of gear box to drive gear box 20 rotations, and count rotations of wheels using light sensor. Testing setup worked great after 3 days of NXT progarmming learning, only to find the Rover gear box is not capable of actually driving the car wheels except in 2 highest gears with no weight on wheels. Otherwise, the small size of the gears cannot handle the torque, and easily strip.
Then set up to simply count number of rotations of the rear gray gears on gear box in relation to wheel rotation. Set up to move car 5 wheel rotations per test. Results are as follows, 5 wheel rotations: #gray gear rotations (rounded):
High gear, Drive, First gear (lowest on +- selection) 5:2
High gear, Drive, Second gear 5:3
High gear, Drive, Third gear 5:6
High gear, Drive, Fourth gear (highest on +- selection) 5:8
Lo gear, Drive, First gear (lowest on +- selection) 5:1
Lo gear, Drive, Second gear 5:2
Lo gear, Drive, Third gear 5:3
Lo gear, Drive, Fourth gear (highest on +- selection) 5:6
I love this set the same as i hate its gearbox and beautiful cracking noise
Interesting design to split the gearbox into two parts - one up front and one over the rear axle. Two universal joint shafts provide the connectivity between these gearboxes. The range control and D/N/R is up front and 4-speed constant mesh gearbox in the rear for D mode. But therein lies the problem...the acute angles of those universals add a lot of friction/resistance and make it very difficult to spin the entire assembly in low gears, even with an XL motor with high torque. The use of four universals causes "surging" behavior in the spin and is not a good design. They have to be "just right" for smooth operation across all 8 gears. If you want to study the complexity of an 8 speed transmission then the Lamborghini is your better choice for a working model - it uses an inline, single gearbox and was done CORRECTLY out of the box with low gears generating higher engine RPM.
This video gives me a LOT of useful information for motorization.
1. D/N/R selector is between the gearbox and the diff, so the gearbox could be set to neutral and a motor could be attached directly to the driveshaft.
2. R bypasses the gearbox, so a motor could alternatively be put into the engine space, and not have to go through all the friction of the gearbox.
This is important information, my friend!
This is a really great video. Thank you for showing how it's supposed to work. It's nice to see that when put together correctly it will function as intended. I put this together recently, but obviously I did something wrong, as the vehicle will not move smoothly when I push it no matter what gear it's in. It will move forward but makes a cracking sound. It won't move in reverse (the wheels are stuck). I took it apart and will try again! It's an incredible set and a fun challenge.
check if th differentials between the wheels are properly aligned.
also make sure the cracking doesn't come from the ujoints: ruclips.net/video/0p1kMtrvFvQ/видео.html
I'm seeing some problems with u joints on shafts. They need to be properly phased together. They cannot be simply wantonly installed on the shaft.
Exactly what you can see in the video linked in the pinned commed above
I was having an issue with the gear train making cracking noises and hanging up. I found that the universal joint on the back end of the light gray shaft was hitting the teeth on the large gear end of the red differential housing. I pushed all the universal joints out as far as they can go against the frame of the model. Now everything works smooth with no issues at all other than the play from lots of gears.
I bought this set and yes, the gears were reversed, but if you have good memory and experience with lego technic its definitely possible to get to the gearbox after the car is built... although pushing and pulling the technic pins killed my fingers and some of the axles took godlike force to move, i still was eventually able to access the gearbox. but yes, i would definitely recommend just flipping the plus and minus and cutting and re-positioning the hi and lo sticker if you aren't planning on going through an hour of painful sequential deconstruction, even though my intention wasn't to change the gears, but rather to swap a 4 stud long axle with a five stud one in order to attach a universal gear to it in order for me to connect my own power functions. but anyway, most of that was useless info lmao
All these problems about the gearing being the wrong way around can be resolved by moving the gear sticker labels upside down.
3:00 but wait... you're powering it from a constant speed from the wheel... so it should make the engine run different speeds when you adjust the gear... since power is being put in the "wrong end" of the drivetrain.. If you had the motor directly connected to the engine, the gears should work out the right way... right?
OH WAIT. I get it. It's like if you've got it in gear, and you're coasting down a hill and you downshift... the engine itself needs to speed up to match with the gearing... nevermind. :D
Yes exactly my opinion, the conclusion made here is wrong as the drivetrain is powered the opposite direction. But still nice video!
Think it again, the relation between the speed of the wheels and the speed of the engine should be the same, regardless which one is "driving" the other. The LEGO fake engine will never drive the wheels.
@@RacingBrick no the transmission depends on the direction. For example a 2:1 transmission turns into an 1:2 transmission if you power it from the other side (e.g. the wheels instead of the engine output shaft)
Surely the fake engine will never drive the wheels, but in order to judge if the model is correct or not I would assume it does as it would be the case in a real life car.
Do you think there is an easy way to "fix" the gearbox? My first idea is to turn the sticker + and - around.
Mine runs perfect in all gears other than 4th Hi/Lo, I have tried aligning the UJ's and nothing has come of it, it seems to be almost missing on the same pistons as i push it forwards. 4 out of the 6 run smoothly then 2 of them jump and cause a cracking sounding like its coming from the gearbox... Its s frustrating arghhhh!!!
i got this set yesterday and have almost the same problem. But 4 hi on my defender runs terrible. It makes cracking noice but u-joins are correct. I tested it without output UJ (which is connected from gearbox to the engine) and there was no cracks. I think the problem is somewhere near the engine. And when i push the car backwards it runs perfect
@@lw4ve1488 I would switch both grey diffs to the passenger side, because that’s what I did and it worked
Excellent analysis. Very informative. Thanks!
There is also a video on youtube showing how to add a motor to make it work remotely from another lego set
Awesome! Though In a real car you would gradually upshift the gearbox as you accelerate faster ;) I think LEGO should give such models a thorough gearbox test run to ensure it works smoothly and effectively. I’m definitely going to create my own gearbox for this set, I love the overall look, just the gearbox needs tweaking. Great video!
And top it up with an actual Lego V6 engine and you’re done.
Just a side note, the drivetrain is well built provided that you align correctly the cardan joints (one of them) and not as depicted in the instructions
Even if you align the joints correctly it might crack, but I've covered it in multiple other videos
@@RacingBrick yes indeed I just completed bag 2 and it will crack on max gear in D-Hi. I considered inverting the differentials as others suggest, but I decided to finish the build, enjoy it, disassemble it and leave it for the next time. No haste. Thank you for your videos again!
PS: next time I rebuild the Defender I also plan to replace the 6L kindergarten engine for a more serious Technic V6 engine. It seems pretty straightforward given the free space.
Great video, thanks!
Hi. Finished, but when I push it along it seems to free wheel. Engine doesn't work either.. Any ideas
Cheers!
I also had the pleasure to build it. It is definitely showing the right way of advancement in the Lego Technic range. Thank you for that. There is one thing though, that doesn't let me sleep: Why is it working the other way around? Specifically the Hi-Lo and the 4sp sequential. Btw the front bit of the gearbox, the Hi-Lo RND cluster is ingenious. :-)
You're making a fair point and the same explanation is poping up here and there. However Lego, as an educational toy should - I guess- demonstrate realistic concepts. From my point of view this excuse is similar to teaching kids that the earth is flat (because it looks like that if you stand on a field). Not to mention all the old sets featuring gearboxes have been designed the right way, and it did not confuse us the kids in the 80's, 90s and 00's. Instead I had the right concept in my head from my childhood about what a gearbox does actually as a torque converter.
One thing I haven't seen considered yet is the perspective of the fake engine. For LEGO Technic sets we push the vehicle to drive the wheels and move the fake engine, or as your video simulates by replacing one of the wheels with a PF motor. In a real car we turn on the engine and drive the wheels to make the car move. If you put the PF motor on the fake engine and watch the wheels move, is it still backwards or would it solve the problem?
It is still backward.
it’s not about backwards/forwards it’s about wheels then moving fast in low gears and vice versa
The problem is not if the engine or the wheels move forwards or backwards. The problem is with the sequence of the gears and the corresponding gear ratio.
Sorry, I misworded my comment. I was referring to the sequence of the gear ratios when I said something was backwards. I was thinking that maybe the sequence of the gear ratios might look like they are in the wrong order when you put the PF motor on the wheel and look at the fake engine's speed. If you put the PF motor on the fake engine and drive the wheels, would the wheels seem like they go in the correct sequence of speed when you change the transmission? That might be hard to do though in real life, but it's just a thought I had.
@@zachcheung8400 you can't drive it from the motor's side, if you check my previous video you'll see that the motor stalls due to the gearing.
I just bought my very own lego land rover!! My first big technic set!!
I have a question I just finished my Land Rover and the gear box and the pistons aren’t moving when I’m playing with it without the electronics I’m just pushing it forward and backward and it wont move the pistons or the gear box. Are you supposed to use the electrical engine to get the gearbox moving and the pistons?
Push it forward at least 1m in D or R, you don't need any motors to see the pistons moving. If it still doesn't work check the link in the pinned comment for troubleshooting
Thanks for getting back to me I looked on your web site for trouble shooting. I don’t see anything that says trouble shooting
@@chazsignora1777 there's a pinned comment here right under the video that is pointing to the exact article on my website
I found the article but where do I find the solution to my problem. Sorry to waste your time
@@chazsignora1777 there might be no ready-made solution to your problem in the article as I don't know exactly what your problem is. I suggest to check the video and compare carefully your build with what you see on the video. It might be beneficial to remove the body to have a better visibility on the internals.
I have this set and I didn’t understand the gears so thanks for helping me understand
What is that red shaft connected to the universal joint doing?
2:37
Your universal joints are not properly in phase. That’s why this shaft does rotate with a constant speed, but speeds up and slows down. I don’t know if that’s adding to any problems in the mechanism, but it clearly isn’t put together right. One universal joint needs to be rotated 90 degrees
The red shaft goes to the fake engine. The universal joints are properly aligned, double checked during building (interestingly the instructions tell you to apply one incorrectly). What you see is the effect of 40+ gears working in the drivetrain.
Can you turn it into a r/c
I would like to have it
I guess it will be hard since half of car is just gearbox...
That would be nice
@@thesmalllad2603 Yeah
I already did i just removed the entire gearbox and added the 42099 engines
I like a lot such deep dive in Technic set engineering. Could you explore the 42082 engineering ?
Awesome engineering in this set. Love that shade of green. I'll wait till it drops to $150. This is one killer set for donor parts.
MarzNet256 LEGO goes up in price not down
@@Sean-me4fv There are occasionally substantial price drops on these sets (especially in the first couple of years after release date). I bought dozens of sets this way, saving hundreds of dollars.
I got it when it was $150
I've having issues with mine, the rear wheels lock and can not roll, something is binding in the transmission
So I learned that if you swap the stickers they will be like a real car but there will be cracking noise if you push it real hard? Is there a way that I fix it?
The cracking is not caused by the stickers :) I have a full guide on this, check my other videos
I'm having the same issue. At the end of the day it's a display piece for me so not to worried about it.
It seems to me that Lego designed the reverse sequence of gears on purpose...because the fake engine is supposed to be driven via wheels by hand, not the other way around!
(though it can be modified with electric power functions, this is how most people with it...)
The gear sequence should be the same in any cases, does not matter from which direction you drive it. At a constant wheel speed the engine should be the slowest in the highest gear.
@@RacingBrick well, what i mean is that the power is sent from the engine to wheels in a real vehicle, while the opposite in our case. In other words, we are ”driving” the engine to rotate. Thus, we need an inverse gear ratio (engine:wheel -> wheel:engine). Consequently, it needs a larger force for us to push the fake engine to run in the highest gear, analogous to that the real engine needs a larger force to push the car.
@@yuanz8053 I guess the reason for the reversed sequence is the general perception of the kids. Higher gear -> faster engine. Normally I'd accept this but in the designer video Milan said the main purpose of the huge and complicated gearbox is educational, to teach the kids how such system should work. If it is educational then a correct gear sequence should be used to show them how it works in a real car.
@@RacingBrick yes, agree with you on this, but the reversed gearbox can be somewhat educational as well in the sense that when it is hard to push the car (say, climbing a slope) we should shift down the gear ;)
Can I ask what is that motor you use to get the gears running and how does it attach to the Lego kit?
I simply removed one wheel and extended that axle. You can use any LEGO motor and power source for this.
@@RacingBrick Thank-you.
So many friction because of the gears !
But the pieces are very interesting
Guys im onto step 100, and when I move the gearbox the back wheels dont turn, is that ok because at the moment im only on step 100? Also i only have the back wheels. Basically, at this stage, should the wheels turn when the gearbox is working?
the engine should rev higher just not this way it shoulda came with power functions and a controller the higher the rpm the faster the engine meaning u can get the car cruising and 4 motors 1 for shifting to lo/hi and transmission then one to drive and steer also this is a manual shouldnt it have a clutch? or is it a "fake" manual
You forgot the petrol engine that it should have as well
my gear box sounds like a fire cracker and won’t move I think some gears are congested but i cant figure it out
Please help🙏🏼 the wheels of the car are turning the opposite both in the back and the front...
And this is exactly how differentials work
So if I get this correctly, the sticker for the gearbox needs to be turned upside down (so minus on the left) and the high low selector sticker needs to be cut in half and placed the other way (so low at the bottom)
Did they ever fix the issue with the gears being the wrong way round, or even just change the labels?
I'm not sure about your statement in the video saying it maybe being intentional for children ... when I was eight I had the 8865 test car and I thought the three gears were the wrong way round because the higher gear made the engine slower, but I was wrong. My mum wouldn't tell me why but she asked me to read books and work it out for myself. My mind was blown and it got me really interested in all things engineering. Not just why the engine was slower, but how gearboxes work, ratios, also why vehicles even need gears. I honestly think a lot of people just change gears because they learned to but couldn't tell you why. It really opened doors for me. Now in my 40's I still play with lego but also use it as a design tool. I think lego is *the* platform that gets children interested in this kind of thing from an early age so they kind of have a responsibility to make sure details like this are accurate.
They did not change it because it is really how LEGO wanted to release it, this reversed layout is intentional.
my transmission broke down on the Lego defender too☹️
Where is trouble shooting located in your website the pistons aren’t moving and the gearbox
Замечательный обзор! Спасибо!
Hypothetical question: If one would attempt to motorize this model, could it be done by replasing the fake engine w’ an electric motor (simulating a real engine) if the space would permit? And would the existing gears lower the speed enough in relation to the weight of the model to be able to drive it at low speed?
PS. Might come of as a dumb question, but after seeing Zeronricks video, in my wildest Technics novice dreams I’m thinking if something similar could be achieved w’ motors & parts from the 42099. 🙄
Definitely not possible with the current drivetrain, you'd need to replace a lot of things.
To fix the reversal, you can switch the gears for the hi/lo gearbox. And for the gears you just need to rotate the +/- sticker by 180 degrees.
You can't switch the gears, the bigger blue 20T gear won't fit in the place of the red 16T gear. It's easier to cut the Hi / Lo sticker in half and put them back swapped :)
How do you get the engine pistons to move because I can’t get them to move when the wheels roll
I noticed this too. I think for me, one of the shifters wasn’t engaged properly.
I think it also needs to be in “hi” gear where the engine runs the fastest and pushing it at a reasonable speed to notice them moving. But not sure
The ‘cracking’ noise that people say they hear is actually the noise of the pistons hitting the plate to which the go through. Try opening the bonnet of the car and running along with it and which the pistons...
Nope, it's not that. The cracking is there with the body removed and it obviously comes from the gears.
@@RacingBrick it wasn't there when I was building it. how strange...
If you build it correctly then there's no cracking, but even with a slight misalignment of the gears or other parts it can appear
@@RacingBrick oooohhhhh ok. Fair enough
Which motor and hub is this called on the website? I would love to purchase this product so that I can run diagnostics on my defender. I’m getting a cracking noise as well. Thanks 🙏🏾
Power Functions L motor and a Power Functions battery box (does not matter which one)
Thanks for the speedy reply
The first gear is where the engine runs faster, 4th gear is where the engine runs slower
My shifter goes in neutral and reverse but it wouldn’t go in drive????
I had an issue with the gears not engaging at all when pushed forwards. I then thought to spin the central differential and the wheels started spinning in opposite directions! Any ideas??
I like the casing around your power functions motor. What kind of lego block do use? Do you have a name so that I try to order it somewhere?
which motor setup/system do you use to demonstrate the gear/motor mechanism?
Yes it does have a cracking noise!
I thought I did something wrong..
Hello. I was hoping you could answer a question with this set. Does the fake engine operate when the gear is selected in D?
I have finished my set and I cannot see the fake engine operating when D is selected. Sorry if I have missed this in your video.
It should operate, but you need to push the car forward at least 1 meter continuously to test it
@@RacingBrick thanks for the reply. I pushed it along today and it was making the cracking noise as per your other video and also tension built up in wheels to push the car backwards once I let go.
Is there an easy way to remove the shell from the chassis so I can take it apart and investigate?
@@walmsleyclio it won't come off in one piece, you can check this photo how I managed to strip it down - instagram.com/p/B2jcQDjp9HR/
@@RacingBrick that's not too bad then. I will have a look into this and hopefully I can see where I have gone wrong in the build.
As far as I see it. all that is wrong with shifting the gears is that the labels for the shift controls were made backwards. Think about this. You turn a knob on a stereo CW to go higher and CCW to go lower. Turning the gear shift knob on this vehicle CW makes it go to a higher gear and CCW to a lower gear. Also as far as the HI-LO shifter goes, it makes sense to me that you would pull it back to go slower and push it forwards to go faster, like the throttle on a boat or jet. If the labels were just reversed, it would shift the way they are marked.
Here's a fix :) ruclips.net/video/KiA7hoW9Fwg/видео.html
@@RacingBrick Thanks. I knew you could just turn around the +/- sticker. I guess you could cut the HI/LO sticker in half and switch their positions. I don't usually put the stickers on. I won't put them on this vehicle.
I saw this Lego set on the Lego Shop web site, but wasn't interested in getting it until I saw this video showing all the gears.
Why is this kit so multi-coloured? Looks like it was made using leftover bits.
I just got done building through the first two sections of bags. When I move the car the pistons in the engine do not move up and down, and the gearbox doesn’t move with the car. Any advice?
Then you must have built it wrong..... I've just started on stage 4 and the gearbox in mine appears to be working correctly.... and the wheels should't go on until the end ! Am wondering how much work it is to reduce it to a chassis from the fully built stage
OK, I have finished building mine and had a sort-of similar issue on completion. Go to step 89 and the UJ's are shown incorrectly built. They need to line up on the shaft, not be at 90 degrees to each other. Fix that and it should be OK, a bit of a struggle and requires some disassembly of the finished model but it's only a few minutes work
SOLUTION FR + EN/ SOLUTION IN ENGLISH (translated by browser) BELOW FRENCH
Si comme moi lors du premier montage, vous avez eu cette frustration en essayant votre nouveau Land Rover. Dans mon cas, après le premier montage et en dépit que tout soit bien monté ET que les arbres de transmission soient bien alignés, les vitesses craquaient en Low ou en High à partir de la 3ème vitesse. La 4ème vitesse en High craquait à mort. Bref, sans grand espoir, j’ai tout de même tenté un démontage et remontage complet MAIS en veillant à laisser pour CHAQUE engrenage (ou TOUT AUTRE PIÈCE TOURNANTE/MOBILE) un petit espace (juste ce qu’il faut pour que ça ne frotte pas), afin qu’il y ait un minimum de frottements entre les pièces mobiles et les pièces fixes. Ce qui a son importance vu le nombre d’axes et d’engrenages par lequel s’opère la transmission depuis les roues jusqu’aux 6 cylindres. Et là miracle, toutes les vitesses marchent sans craquer, même si ça manque toujours de fluidité (en 4ème High surtout). Mais ça ne craque plus jamais ! Tout ce que je peux vous dire, pour ceux qui (re)montent, c’est de bien tester la boite à vitesse (directement en 4ème High) dès que vous arrivez à l’étape de la pose du volant, en mettant les 4 roues en place au préalable bien sûr. N’hésitez pas à la faire rouler en l’accompagnant sur 2 à 3 mètres pour vous faire une bonne idée et ajuster si besoin est. Et une fois que c’est acceptable pour vous, vous pouvez continuer la suite en veillant à ne pas trop malmener la structure afin de ne pas compromettre les différents serrages établis. En espérant que ça en aidera pas mal et courage à ceux qui doivent redémonter. J’ai moi-même longuement hésiter à le faire sans savoir si ça en vaudrait le coup mais je ne pouvais pas me résigner à avoir un Lego à 150€ dont la fonction principale ne marche qu’à moitié.
____
If like me during the first assembly, you had this frustration while trying your new Land Rover. In my case, after the first assembly and despite everything being well assembled AND that the drive shafts are well aligned, the gears creaked in Low or in High from the 3rd gear. 4th gear in High creaked to death. In short, without much hope, I still tried a complete disassembly and reassembly BUT making sure to leave for EACH gear (or ANY OTHER ROTATING PART / MOBILE) a small space (just enough to keep it from rubbing step), so that there is a minimum of friction between the moving parts and the fixed parts. This is important given the number of axes and gears through which transmission takes place from the wheels to the 6 cylinders. And there miracle, all speeds work without cracking, even if it still lacks fluidity (especially in 4th High). But it never cracks again! All I can tell you, for those who (re)build, is to test the gearbox (directly in 4th High) as soon as you get to the stage of fitting the steering wheel, putting the 4 wheels in place beforehand of course. Do not hesitate to roll it by accompanying it for 2 to 3 meters to get a good idea and adjust if necessary. And once it is acceptable to you, you can continue following it while being careful not to manhandle the structure too much so as not to compromise the various tightenings established. Hopefully it will help a lot and courage for those who have to restart. I myself have long hesitated to do it without knowing if it would be worth it but I could not resign myself to having a Lego at 150 € whose main function works only halfway.
merci mon frere francais ! haha bonne journee a toi :)
@@SAMSAM-xe5cu De rien haha, également :)
I think the gearbox is working correctly. If you replace the fake motor with a real one the revs of the engine will transfer to lower output on the wheels. But when you do it the other way - from wheels to engine the engine runs faster in lower gears.
The source of power does not matter. What matters is the relationship between wheel speed, the selected gear and the engine speed. With this gearbox layout you would still have an incorrect gear sequence even if the theoretical power would come from the engine and not from the wheels.
@@RacingBrick If you drive you car with constant speed (constant wheel revs (as when you apply the electric motor to the whell) and shift down gear revs on the engine should go up, right?
@@jacobaxelsen1975 yep, this means the engine is faster in lower gears at constant wheel speed. By default the set has lower engine speed in lower gears at constant wheel speed, so it's working the opposite way.
The music is nice what is it for music
Mine has one front wheel going forward while the other goes in reversed causing the tires to pop off every time I try and push it
Yeah me too, what is causing this problem?
You've likely reversed either the front or rear differential. Make sure that the bevel gears of the two differentials are on the same side.
I have the same problem!
Then it needs the same correction, check the alignment of the differentials
In my mind I can hear the discussion when the design of the set was started:
Marketing Guy: "Land Rover asked us to bring a kit of their latest model to make the kids think it's cool even though it burns tons of fuel and destroys their planet."
Designer: "You know, Lego Technic was invented to teach kids how technology works. We should come up with something like this again. Maybe we could put in a proper offroad gear box with hi/lo and stuff. I've seen a lot of MOCs so it can't be that complicated, I'll download some instructions right away."
Marketing Guy: "Nah, better invent something on your own this time. Those MOC creators tend to be way too generous with the parts, it eats into the profits. Oh, and you got time 'till tomorrow."
Designer: "Uhh, okay, I guess I can do it. And I'll make sure it works like the real thing to the kids can really learn something."
Marketing Guy: "Actually I hate kids even more than those annoying AFOBs. You know what? Let's screw their little minds by letting the gearbox run the wrong way around. That'll teach them!"
What lego generator is that? Would like one to run my landy!
What generator you meen? The Power Functions motor? That's an L motor but it is only used here for demonstration purposes, it would be pretty weak alone to drive the whole model.
@@RacingBrickthat would be perfect, yes just for demos- cheers!
Hey, I need help. When I submitted and made the conversion from 2 to 4 and going to the front, so it burst strangely
you need to explain your issue better, I don't understand what conversion you made
@@RacingBrick Sorry I'm from the Czech Republic and I don't know much English So if we put in front and give hi or lo and give speed 1 to 4 so it starts to crunch in the transmission as if it slipped there. And I don't know what I'm doing
@@honziiik4937 check out my other video about the possible issues - ruclips.net/video/0p1kMtrvFvQ/видео.html
@@honziiik4937 I've started to build my land rover and I tested it at step 300. It was making cracks and so I decided to rebuild it and it works perfectly now. Such a fascinating set!
@@jamesg5777 and how did you fix it?
Great video, thank you very much.
Very nice video. Thanks for posting and have a nice day too.
So the solution for the gears is simply to reverse the sticker.
I just spent 10 hours building mine and it doesn't work..... Idk what to do 😞
If know that gear up is really gear down why not just to change the labels hi with low and plus with minus?
You can do that, although you need to cut the high/low sticker
So how do I make the car go faster?
Push it harder
@@RacingBrick no I mean don't the gears change the speed of the car?
No they don't, it's not a motorized set. You push the car, if you change gears then the speed of the fake engine changes only.
I feel like this gearbox doesnt serve a purpose. I finished my build recently and don't notice the difference b/w the different gears
Really really helpful
Hi.
If I push the car in 4th gear high it pulls the tension in the gearing and releases at once on the engine and so on. Who has the same ?
Did you check my other video - ruclips.net/video/0p1kMtrvFvQ/видео.html
Is it really motorized or is that just a mod?
The motor was just attached to demonstrate the gearbox, it is not motorized by default
@@RacingBrick ok thanks for your reply its really helpful
Help me, I move the lego set forwards and the engine doesn’t move help I’m dying inside
This can be a zillion things, you need to be more specific. Does it happen in R and D as well? Did you try in different gears? Did you push the car at lest 1 meter?
the engine works only when the rear wheels turn but as soon as the front wheels turn, the engine stops, this happens for all of the sellections/gears
@@oliverpreece5512 so you turn the rear wheels and block the front ones, the engine works but if you roll all wheels then the engine does not run? What if you block the rear wheels and turn only the front ones?
@RacingBrick when I block the back wheels, and roll the front ones, the engine moves but slower
@@oliverpreece5512 one of your differentials might be reversed, check them both should have the same orientation. You can see a shot of the correct configuration here - racingbrick.com/2019/09/decoding-the-gearbox-of-the-lego-technic-42110-land-rover-defender/
Mine cracks and eventually won’t let the car move without a lot of force
Could you be able to motorize it?
Yes you can
I have posted a video showing a breakdown of the drivetrain of the Land Rover. The link is ruclips.net/video/R3TfZbrkDfY/видео.html.
My front wheels are going backwards and backwheels forewards
the other thing that doesn't look right is the firing order of the cylinders
I have no problems, accept in high range 4th gear, but i can live with that.
Die Kardangelenke sind zu stark angewinkelt.Das mögen die nicht.
Je größer der Winkel, umso größer sind Drehzahlschwankungen.Durch das zwei Gelenk werden diese Schwankungen neutraliert.Aber nur, wenn es 90 Grad verdreht montiert wird.Was hier aber nicht gemacht wurde.Daher verdoppeln sich die Schwankungen.
My 42110 is cracking at 4th / lo. Why?
edit: It's also cracking at 3rd / lo, and 4th / hi is completely unusable.
Check his other video! I'll get you the link
ruclips.net/video/0p1kMtrvFvQ/видео.html
@@blablaennogwat Tried it.
is there any way to make to rc?
never mind someone else already asked this
Yes
The real car has an automatic transmission. The model has a manual transmission. But then the car is a nice model anyhow, considering that Danes don't know anything about cars, and prefer bicycles.
Excellent
Hey there, I have a question. I got in trouble, because after putting the gearbox and rear suspensoin together, the transmission don’t work proper anymore, because there are two gears locking each other. Did you have the same issue?😳 I hope you can help me out🥺. It is very beautiful, it would be very sad if it doesn’t work. Nice video👍👍
Uni-joints need to be timed properly so they dont bind up
Yep, just like it's demonstrated in this video - ruclips.net/video/0p1kMtrvFvQ/видео.html
The cracks are always coming from the differentials at the front and back. They have an stiffness problem, so they crack back from the gear that is driven by the gearboxoutput. In the bugatti chiron they fixed this problem, by putting a counter gear on the opposite side of the gearbox frame. Could be solved the same way here🙂
I'm almost sure that's not the case here. The set has 52 gears (not counting the differentials), when the fake engine supposed to drive the fastest then you see the highest resistance in the system, there's a weak spot somewhere. But it only appears in an extreme situation so that's not really an issue with this set.
My pistons move so much slower and the gearbox doesnt work
Can we see it drive?
Check my other videos about the set
Are you sure that you built the engine correctly? The pistons in the fake engine have a very weird firing order for a straight six cylinder engine.
You should ask the designers about it
I think that you are brilliant
Sorry mate I drive a pick up and you’re wrong about Hi and Lo...Hi carries more speed but lower torque but Lo carries less speed but higher torque in 4WD. Hi is for loose gravel and dirt but Lo is when there are steep inclines up or down where torque and engine braking is required...the system isn’t reversed. But good video nonetheless
Check out how to make a Land Rover defender on my channel!!
Great video, congratulations