My carb leaked gas without an O ring. I looked everywhere to find just that and ended up purchasing a carb rebuild kit. I was having a flooding issue whenever I hit a bump in yard and was glad I found your video showing replacing the needle valve. That was my flooding prob. Thanks
Can't thank you enough for sharing your 'tinkering' ! The carb on the Kohler on my Scag 48" was full of water and within a few minutes of watching your video I had the knowledge of what to do. Now all sorted and runs perfectly. You guys that take the bother of sharing your experiences are invaluable. Cheers FW
I love watching because I learn so much! Eventually I hope to gain what I now call patience. Something I've never had until I started watching your videos! Thank You Brad!
Can I make a suggestion? Since you're already taking the time to pull the carb off and break it down to be rebuilt; wouldn't it be wise to go ahead and clean the carb with your carb cleaning agent of choice? I recommend using a ultrasonic when its plausible to do so, however sometimes a good ol can of carb cleaner can do the trick, as long as you've got the seals/gaskets/diaphragms to replace the ones you'll be pulling... I work at a small rental company, and I tend to see these and honda type carbs, on a regular basis, and normally when I do a carb rebuild, Ill go ahead and give the exterior and interior parts a good cleaning. *** Update- The small needle screw and spring is your pilot/idle mixture screw. This is located to the right of the fuel solenoid port on the lower portion of the carb assy. Adjusting this screw after installation will adjust the mix....Crank your engine and try it :)
Thank you so much for the video, it took the apprehension out of trying it myself. I did noticed however that you forgot to change out the 'idle fuel adjustment needle' and spring. I saw these in your left over parts. I did it and it fired up immediately! Thanks again!
4:08 Mine ran great until a week ago. Flooding like crazy... Plugs wet and gasoline spraying out of the plug holes when cranking. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much for your comprehensive video. Though I only needed the first 7 minutes, it was just what I needed. I have the same carb on my Miller welder that has sat for a couple years and needed to be cleaned out. Your video was perfect and the good lighting and camera angles even allowed me to see the orientations of even the smallest components. A+ Thank you again
Thanks for making this video, I have been using my mother in laws old Grasshopper on her yard for years and this spring it began to run roughly I supposed it was a bad fuel pump so I replaced it and the fuel filter and it ran much better, then later in the day I was mowing a prat of her yard that has quite a steep section as I turned the mower up hill it would mow fine for a little bit then began to die, I thought It must be the float swelled up and sticking from the alcohol in the fuel these day. I could mow just fine at just above Idle but as soon as I cranked it up above 1/2 throttle it would starve and die... or so I believed... I now know it was flooding.. I just replaced a float in a Keihin carb 24 053-32 I called the Kohler service center and they quoted a float kit that had only a float, a bowl gasket, a pin and a retaining screw. it was $75.00 add a bottom gasket and a top gasket and I am out 81.00 plus I looked at the main needle under the float and it looked fine, I checked the fuel shut off solenoid and it worked well. So I reassembled everything and guess what at idle it's fine but just as soon as the governor begins to crack the butterfly open just a little it floods out the exhaust is smoking and the plugs show a really rich sooty condition but they were dry. So I guess my question would be Is there any way to order just the o rings for the main fuel jet that you replaced on your's or should I bite the bullet and order the same kit you did? our local repair shop want's $300. just to pick it up and deliver it with a tune up... I can't imagine how much they want to work on it but it might come to that. Thanks again for your help... Jim.
+BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose I don't suppose you have the kit number that you used on this carb? I hope that some of the small rubber o rings will help my problem.. thanks
I don't know anything about small engines or big engines. But I watched this whole video. BC, you make good videos! Always have and that's why I watch! I still learned something. There aren't as many parts as I would believe and not really that hard (at least you make it look easy) to work on. Time consuming yes; but it is worth doing!
Thanks Richard! This was a fairly easy carb. I have another cub with a much more complicated carb. The less complicated ones are far easier and cheaper to work on.
Great video.. Thanks.. I had the same rotted O-Rings in my carb due to the 10% ethanol content in the gasoline.. Will only run none ethanol fuel from now on.
Thank you for posting your video. My question is. That Kohler carb, some of them have a fuel pump built into the carb, maybe on the older models. Our Cub Cadet won't start because fuel isn't getting into the carb. We are thinking mounting an external fuel pump, but we don't know which port to run the air pressure line to. Can you post a video, or picture of your fuel pump showing how the three hoses are hooked up? Thanks all in all for posting. Stay healthy and spoil your dogs for us. We're big pet lovers here in Missouri.
I learned something new I guess. I have a C series Kohler Command 15 HP. What is the difference from C to K series? My carb part # is AM125355 For my John Deere CV15S My carb won't regulate the gas flow and I cleaned it out and reused the old needle cause the seat looked good but it's back to not stopping the gas flow. I installed a shut off valve and I can regulate flow with that but if I run the engine harder, when the fuel in the bowl is used up, it shuts down for lack of fuel or if I open up the flow at my shut off valve and I go to an idle without adjusting the valve back, it floods. Has to be my needle. And I'm sure the float is fine but I must test it also to be sure. I cleaned out my lines from dirt by making the fuel pump pump the fuel into a container before hooking the fuel line back up and I've replaced fuel line with the colored rubber/plastic dirt bike line. I love to see through the fuel line.Some of these old lines start to disintegrate from the inside. I see these carbs on Ebay anywhere from $17 to $125 and the look alike in quality but I'm told to look for the John Deere label on the package. I despise copycats!!! You get what you pay for, remember that.My carb is a Walbro and I suspect original.Thanks for letting me get that off my chest.
Brad, I'm working on the same carb off a bobcat welder. Finding the parts is a choir and the prices are astronomical. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work.
Do a little digging. Goto ereplacementparts.com and search by your specific engine and type code...once you have that, you should be able to search that engine until you find the parts associated with what you need, and then you will have your part numbers as this site uses the oem part numbers!!.. I found a rebuild kit that fits most of these on Amazon for $7.99.
Nice rebuild, I was really hoping that would solve the problem, gonna be a like new mower when you get done with it, but well worth the time and effort.
I also use a torch tip cleaner to clean all air and fuel passages & then use compressed air afterwards, and it helps to lube the plunger in the fuel shut -off valve. You can remove the plunger to clean the surface rust off of it and save 60.00 plus dollars on a new fuel shut off solenoid .
simplest fix to a flooding issue with the engine shut off is to add a manual gate valve in the fuel line. I have an old kohler motor that I do that with. The check valve on the fuel pump is worn out. Floods the motor when shut off. easiest fix to avoid a lack of replacement parts on a Kohler since Kohler has stopped parts support for that model and series. an accurate scale that weighs down to the gram will tell you if the neoprene float is heavy. The floats are actually solid but the materials can soak up gasoline. a heavy float doesnt float the way it is intended. I also agree with the flywheel key. Command series motors are known to shake the flywheel nut loose enough that that it allows the flywheel to shift on the shaft. The keys are meant to shear. The keys are cheap but they are unique to that series of Kohler. the KT and Magnum series keys wont work. A back fire, a load shock from the mower hitting something solid that transfers the shock thru the motor can shear or half shear a flywheel key. Out of time (even a little bit) makes lots of issues that are hard to track down because the spark checkers just say yes or no it is/isnt sparking.
Does that act like a fuel regulator?? Here I thought it was y needle valve and I cleaned all my lines out and still flooded. I will change my fuel pump then, thanks!!! BTW, see my post further up on the subject.
Aftermarket fuel pumps are available for most kohler engines, via the web or Amazon. I'd recommend changing out the pump, its a quick fix and an cheap one at that. Just my opinion.
The brass tube with the small O-ring at each end must be installed correctly. The hole in center of the tube does not extend all the way through. I pulled mine out not paying attention and had to do some extensive research to determine which end went into the main body base. This needs to be explained and shown in your video. It's probably the most important part of the rebuild.
I thought the tube in that carb looked thicker than others and didn't look removable but looked brass. Yeh, I watched Taryl Dactal replace one and it was cool to watch the 'HOW TO' but looked unnecessary. I couldn't see how it would change anything. I hope we are talking about the same thin tube that you need a tool to PULL it out with.
A first option would be to remove carb from engine, detach bowl then soak all in a jar of white vinegar for a few days, shaking it now and then to loosen dirt and grunge buildup. Once you take it out, use a small paint brush to brush off any remauning chunks. Then blow out all the jets, etc.. with carb cleaner. If its really bad, do the process twice. You can buy a sheet of gasket paper and cut out the gaskets. Works like a charm as long as the problem isn't parts that are just worn out.
They sure can be a challenge, I wonder are you like me when working around carbs and open intakes, where you get all tensed up thinking something is going to fall in,,lol I wonder was there a gasket in between the top of the carb and filter plate seemed like a place dirt could get sucked in from under it. Hope you get it figured out and yes it does sound like the timing is off.
Great video. I'm repairing a Kohler CH25S engine. There's a Keihin 24 053 carburetor. I wonder what the main gasoline nozzle should be there. If you can advise. Thank you.
You definitely have ignition while your intake valve is open. I am not sure how cub's are timed but the sheared pin is a good place to start. The worst case would be a camshaft out of time with the crankshaft, and I have seen that happen before so if the pin in the flywheel is good looks like the motor may have to come out. Also a stuck open intake valve would do that.
Hmmmmmm,,, Good advice. Maybe I'll pull the valve covers off and make sure they are opening and closing before i pull the flywheel. I'm hoping at this point its just the key. I cant believe how good it ran,then I parked it and came back the next morning and it sounded then like it sounded on the video.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Pull the valve covers and the plugs and make sure the valves open and close and at what you think are the right times, could be 45 deg off and backfire through the carb.
Very good video,you have to have a lot of patience to do that,and I would have trouble seeing those small parts.I am sorry to hear about someone stealing your videos.There is a video of a person calling a goat or sheep and he/she comes hopping down the hallway in the house,and about 5-10 people stole the video and put it up as their own.
I Have a habit of preforming a blow test after installing the needle & float. Blow into the gas inlet tube and work the float up & down and check for leakage in the needle & seat.
the bottom butterfly is spring loaded. should it always snap back closed when not hooked up? mine has very little tension and only closes about half way.
Did you put new spark plugs in I had a john deere that was doing the same thing the spark plugs looked fine but I still replaced them and now it runs great
For everyone wondering about their P/N for the carb kit, Kohler does not include the rebuild kit number in their parts break downs due to the many variations in engine performance specs and options. To get the correct number, a parts rep from a dealer has to call Kohler, they will need the engine model and arrangement numbers. Go to jackssmallengines, partstree, PSEP and CALL THEIR 1-800 NUMBER, or visit your local small engine shop, they will be able to get you what you need. This kit should run around $60 US.
The engine has a Sam ignition system on it and they were junky! So if you find the keyword is OK I would go to that ignition system they make a conversion kit that gets rid of all of that crap comes with a new fly wheel because the magnets in a different spot. Mine was acting the same way and that's what I found wrong put the new conversion kit on ran great
Hello...is there a way to check with a timing light to see if the key is sheared. It seems strange that it ran so well for those couple hours now to have jumped timing like that. I can't believe the key has sheared. Has it ever severely backfired? Good luck on the repairs.
There actually is a way to check timing with a light. Im just gonna pull the magneto though. It will give me a chance to check the crank seal and clean the stator and check the magnets.
By experience was saying a timing problem withthe backfire from the earlier video. And I would have siad the distributor was off by a "tooth" but no distributor...didn't even think about loose or sheared key on the flywheel effecting your timing. Be waiting for that next video to see if that's the culprit! Sometimes you got to go through all the systems to find a problem..you most certainly had or would have a carb issue regarding rotted O-Rings that would have gotten you sooner or later. So you've got that off the list.....
+BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose I have a Kohler 18.5hp & a Rebuild kit for it is 115.00 ...so I set out to buy a new carb or a good used one instead & found you cant buy them anywhere new they dont make one for it.
Thanks for makeing this do you know anything about taking the governor out of the motor Kohler commando ? The reason why I ask is because I've done it but I haven't ever road run the motor also the heads and intake is port and polished I grinded a little deeper relief in the head to trying to achieve higher compression
I was wondering if the jet you removed from the upper half of the carb, brass cylinder,holes up and down the barrel, with O Rings on the end. Were both ends of the cylinder open? Could you see daylight down the center line of the cylinder? Just removed the jet on my carb, just like yours, and one end is closed. Is that normal? BTW, great videos!
@@bctruck well i got a lincoln welder with that motor it will run for a couple minutes then it bogs down starts smoking then starts running right again for a minute or two starts the whole process again any ideas ? thank you for replying
great video but question if you would be so kind. You stop the video at one point and say you will cut back in when you figure out where the orings go. At the point you cut out, you are holding the brass thing I think it may be called the slow jet(multiple holes in it, it has 2 orings on it). NOT the piece where the solenoid goes into. You were also struggling with the orings on it when you were talking about swearing when someone stole your video or something. Do you remember if those orings are both the same size and if the kit came with 2 of them? They look like they are the same size but one is deformed and it looks bigger but it may just have stretched?? I am having the same problem you did trying to figure out which orings go on that jet. Are both the same size?? Thank you
another thing to check with a flooding issue is the engine oil. pull the dip stick and smell the oil. it shouldnt smell gassy. It should also be the same thickness and stickiness as new oil or thicker as the oil gets dirty.
one came into the shop where the owner ignored the oil completely. something hot made it into the crankcase and the gas exploded. no fix to that engine. every single piece was damaged somehow couldnt even salvage points or coils
Hey, enjoyed the video. Very informative. I noticed you put a part number 12853177S as a replacement part for this particular engine. I have a Kohler command with a KEIHIN with a serial number of 2405332 and underneath that is 17E LA Im having difficulty finding a repair kit. Where do you order your repair kits? And is that part number that you gave compatible with my carburetor? Thank you!
Do you happen to know the kit rebuild number and where you got it? I can't find this kit anywhere online and don't want to spend $175 + for a replacement carb. Complete engine tag is illegible so I'm not quite sure which carb I have but the one you have is very similar. The link in your post is not the same carb, unless the picture is the wrong one. Appreciate any help.
can you tell me when you got the rebuild kit? I have looked everywhere and cant seem to find one, i have exact same carb and took apart with your video. My gasket is bad and all the internal parts were gummed up
yes sir i understand that, i looked on there already and wasnt able to find it. My carb has a little different number but it is identical to that one in your video. 24 053 32 for a lincoln ranger 8 welder/generator. I wasnt able to find it so thought i would ask more specific.
70% of my repairs on this type of carb is due to the fuel shut off valve being stuck either open or closed and it's usually a dirty plunger in the solenoid that needs cleaning & lubed.
Can someone, anyone, help me? I got a Toro 22' XT675 recycling front wheel power walk behind mower, no primer. I got it about 5 or 6 yrs ago. It always started right up on first or second pull, best mower I've had. Last year I wasn't able to mow for a few months and had a lawn service do it during that time. When I tried the mower again it wouldn't start. Tried taking off and cleaning carb, it was pretty badly weathered, so I began a hunt for a replacement carb. Its like there is no known record of the original. The part # on the carb shows 14053 55, but even Kohler can't find it. I've found another, with the exact body, but the upper mechanism for butterfly controls is different.. its part # 14053 90. Then theres another I've found where the mechanisms are the same as the original, but the body is a bit different..part # 14853 56. I can't find a reference to the original part # anywhere. Anyone have any ideas?
It wasnt a sheared key and I never figured it out./ I sold it for exactly what I had into it. I have a small shop and can only work on one at a time. Im still puzzled as to what it was.
@@bctruck I know this is an old video, but I did this carb today... It takes forever for the bowl to fill up, I ran it on carb clean until it caught up and ran.
@@smallie42 did you get your fuel delivery problem sorted? I am trying to diagnose a carb problem on a Kohler and when I empty the carb it only takes about 10 seconds of cranking to fire up , I would suspect you have a suction leak in the fuel line , a dirty filter or a leak in the vacuum hose to the fuel pump
Wow! Between your two comments, I’m convinced that you should do repair videos. RUclips could use someone who can point out all the wrong ways of doing things. Oh wait. RUclips is full of those. Thanks for stopping by.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Quality, quantity? RUclips has a lot of videos but it’s sometimes difficult to find the right info. And of course, it’s easier to find the errors in an existing video than to create a new video. I have just rebuilt this carb (not tested yet) and I learned a lot. I wish I had the filming and narration skills you have, I would explain the content of the rebuild kit and where each part goes.
My carb leaked gas without an O ring. I looked everywhere to find just that and ended up purchasing a carb rebuild kit. I was having a flooding issue whenever I hit a bump in yard and was glad I found your video showing replacing the needle valve. That was my flooding prob.
Thanks
I LEARNED A LOT HOW TO REBUILD THE KHOLER CARBURETOR THANKS👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad it helped.
Can't thank you enough for sharing your 'tinkering' ! The carb on the Kohler on my Scag 48" was full of water and within a few minutes of watching your video I had the knowledge of what to do. Now all sorted and runs perfectly. You guys that take the bother of sharing your experiences are invaluable. Cheers FW
I love watching because I learn so much! Eventually I hope to gain what I now call patience. Something I've never had until I started watching your videos!
Thank You Brad!
Thank YOU Randy. I appreciate the time you give me and my vids.
Can I make a suggestion? Since you're already taking the time to pull the carb off and break it down to be rebuilt; wouldn't it be wise to go ahead and clean the carb with your carb cleaning agent of choice? I recommend using a ultrasonic when its plausible to do so, however sometimes a good ol can of carb cleaner can do the trick, as long as you've got the seals/gaskets/diaphragms to replace the ones you'll be pulling... I work at a small rental company, and I tend to see these and honda type carbs, on a regular basis, and normally when I do a carb rebuild, Ill go ahead and give the exterior and interior parts a good cleaning. *** Update- The small needle screw and spring is your pilot/idle mixture screw. This is located to the right of the fuel solenoid port on the lower portion of the carb assy. Adjusting this screw after installation will adjust the mix....Crank your engine and try it :)
Thank you so much for the video, it took the apprehension out of trying it myself. I did noticed however that you forgot to change out the 'idle fuel adjustment needle' and spring. I saw these in your left over parts. I did it and it fired up immediately! Thanks again!
4:08 Mine ran great until a week ago. Flooding like crazy... Plugs wet and gasoline spraying out of the plug holes when cranking. Thanks for the video!
Thank you very much for your comprehensive video. Though I only needed the first 7 minutes, it was just what I needed. I have the same carb on my Miller welder that has sat for a couple years and needed to be cleaned out. Your video was perfect and the good lighting and camera angles even allowed me to see the orientations of even the smallest components. A+ Thank you again
Glad to help.
Thanks for making this video,
I have been using my mother in laws old Grasshopper on her yard for years and this spring it began to run roughly I supposed it was a bad fuel pump so I replaced it and the fuel filter and it ran much better, then later in the day I was mowing a prat of her yard that has quite a steep section as I turned the mower up hill it would mow fine for a little bit then began to die, I thought It must be the float swelled up and sticking from the alcohol in the fuel these day. I could mow just fine at just above Idle but as soon as I cranked it up above 1/2 throttle it would starve and die... or so I believed... I now know it was flooding..
I just replaced a float in a Keihin carb 24 053-32 I called the Kohler service center and they quoted a float kit that had only a float, a bowl gasket, a pin and a retaining screw. it was $75.00 add a bottom gasket and a top gasket and I am out 81.00 plus I looked at the main needle under the float and it looked fine, I checked the fuel shut off solenoid and it worked well. So I reassembled everything and guess what at idle it's fine but just as soon as the governor begins to crack the butterfly open just a little it floods out the exhaust is smoking and the plugs show a really rich sooty condition but they were dry. So I guess my question would be Is there any way to order just the o rings for the main fuel jet that you replaced on your's or should I bite the bullet and order the same kit you did? our local repair shop want's $300. just to pick it up and deliver it with a tune up... I can't imagine how much they want to work on it but it might come to that. Thanks again for your help... Jim.
+josephthediviner I'm almost positive you can order any part or piece from the website, jackssmallengines.
+BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose I don't suppose you have the kit number that you used on this carb? I hope that some of the small rubber o rings will help my problem.. thanks
I don't know anything about small engines or big engines. But I watched this whole video. BC, you make good videos! Always have and that's why I watch! I still learned something. There aren't as many parts as I would believe and not really that hard (at least you make it look easy) to work on. Time consuming yes; but it is worth doing!
Thanks Richard! This was a fairly easy carb. I have another cub with a much more complicated carb. The less complicated ones are far easier and cheaper to work on.
Great video.. Thanks.. I had the same rotted O-Rings in my carb due to the 10% ethanol content in the gasoline.. Will only run none ethanol fuel from now on.
Thank you for posting your video. My question is. That Kohler carb, some of them have a fuel pump built into the carb, maybe on the older models. Our Cub Cadet won't start because fuel isn't getting into the carb. We are thinking mounting an external fuel pump, but we don't know which port to run the air pressure line to. Can you post a video, or picture of your fuel pump showing how the three hoses are hooked up? Thanks all in all for posting. Stay healthy and spoil your dogs for us. We're big pet lovers here in Missouri.
This video was very well put together. Great quality footage, good instructions and the like. Thanks!
I learned something new I guess. I have a C series Kohler Command 15 HP. What is the difference from C to K series? My carb part # is AM125355 For my John Deere CV15S My carb won't regulate the gas flow and I cleaned it out and reused the old needle cause the seat looked good but it's back to not stopping the gas flow. I installed a shut off valve and I can regulate flow with that but if I run the engine harder, when the fuel in the bowl is used up, it shuts down for lack of fuel or if I open up the flow at my shut off valve and I go to an idle without adjusting the valve back, it floods. Has to be my needle. And I'm sure the float is fine but I must test it also to be sure. I cleaned out my lines from dirt by making the fuel pump pump the fuel into a container before hooking the fuel line back up and I've replaced fuel line with the colored rubber/plastic dirt bike line. I love to see through the fuel line.Some of these old lines start to disintegrate from the inside. I see these carbs on Ebay anywhere from $17 to $125 and the look alike in quality but I'm told to look for the John Deere label on the package. I despise copycats!!! You get what you pay for, remember that.My carb is a Walbro and I suspect original.Thanks for letting me get that off my chest.
Dude! thanks so much for posting this video along with your comments and stuff that didn't work too. I'm doing this this after work tonight
Brad, I'm working on the same carb off a bobcat welder.
Finding the parts is a choir and the prices are astronomical.
Thanks for the video and keep up the good work.
Do a little digging. Goto ereplacementparts.com and search by your specific engine and type code...once you have that, you should be able to search that engine until you find the parts associated with what you need, and then you will have your part numbers as this site uses the oem part numbers!!.. I found a rebuild kit that fits most of these on Amazon for $7.99.
Carburetor Overhaul Repair Kit Replaces Kohler 24 757 03-S For CH18-CH25 CH620-CH740 LH685-LH755 www.amazon.com/dp/B0798W5LP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kgZUCbJ7ME3W9
Amazon has a kit for $9. Excellent reviews. Yes, some are $$$
Nice rebuild, I was really hoping that would solve the problem, gonna be a like new mower when you get done with it, but well worth the time and effort.
Im gonna enjoy painting the deck.
I also use a torch tip cleaner to clean all air and fuel passages & then use compressed air afterwards, and it helps to lube the plunger in the fuel shut -off valve. You can remove the plunger to clean the surface rust off of it and save 60.00 plus dollars on a new fuel shut off solenoid .
As always the busy bctruck. Good video.
simplest fix to a flooding issue with the engine shut off is to add a manual gate valve in the fuel line. I have an old kohler motor that I do that with. The check valve on the fuel pump is worn out. Floods the motor when shut off. easiest fix to avoid a lack of replacement parts on a Kohler since Kohler has stopped parts support for that model and series. an accurate scale that weighs down to the gram will tell you if the neoprene float is heavy. The floats are actually solid but the materials can soak up gasoline. a heavy float doesnt float the way it is intended. I also agree with the flywheel key. Command series motors are known to shake the flywheel nut loose enough that that it allows the flywheel to shift on the shaft. The keys are meant to shear. The keys are cheap but they are unique to that series of Kohler. the KT and Magnum series keys wont work. A back fire, a load shock from the mower hitting something solid that transfers the shock thru the motor can shear or half shear a flywheel key. Out of time (even a little bit) makes lots of issues that are hard to track down because the spark checkers just say yes or no it is/isnt sparking.
I just happen to have a scale that is capable of weighing down to the gram,,,,,it was left over from,,,uhhhh,, a "job" I had in the 80,s.
Does that act like a fuel regulator?? Here I thought it was y needle valve and I cleaned all my lines out and still flooded. I will change my fuel pump then, thanks!!! BTW, see my post further up on the subject.
Aftermarket fuel pumps are available for most kohler engines, via the web or Amazon. I'd recommend changing out the pump, its a quick fix and an cheap one at that. Just my opinion.
The brass tube with the small O-ring at each end must be installed correctly. The hole in center of the tube does not extend all the way through. I pulled mine out not paying attention and had to do some extensive research to determine which end went into the main body base. This needs to be explained and shown in your video. It's probably the most important part of the rebuild.
I had the same issue, and since the video was so good I could see the orientation of the part perfectly
Yep, I had this issue too and watched just to see the orientation of the tube. I didn't pay attention either when I pulled mine apart.
I thought the tube in that carb looked thicker than others and didn't look removable but looked brass. Yeh, I watched Taryl Dactal replace one and it was cool to watch the 'HOW TO' but looked unnecessary. I couldn't see how it would change anything. I hope we are talking about the same thin tube that you need a tool to PULL it out with.
When rebuilding a carb I recommend you take everything apart first, lay all the old pieces and match them with new pieces.
A first option would be to remove carb from engine, detach bowl then soak all in a jar of white vinegar for a few days, shaking it now and then to loosen dirt and grunge buildup. Once you take it out, use a small paint brush to brush off any remauning chunks. Then blow out all the jets, etc.. with carb cleaner. If its really bad, do the process twice. You can buy a sheet of gasket paper and cut out the gaskets. Works like a charm as long as the problem isn't parts that are just worn out.
Nice job. Lots of details were helpful in my rebuilding the same carb. Thank you.
They sure can be a challenge, I wonder are you like me when working around carbs and open intakes, where you get all tensed up thinking something is going to fall in,,lol I wonder was there a gasket in between the top of the carb and filter plate seemed like a place dirt could get sucked in from under it. Hope you get it figured out and yes it does sound like the timing is off.
I do get concerned about that. The other day when I was working on the toilet all I could think about was losing something down the pipe.
Great video. I'm repairing a Kohler CH25S engine. There's a Keihin 24 053 carburetor. I wonder what the main gasoline nozzle should be there. If you can advise. Thank you.
You definitely have ignition while your intake valve is open. I am not sure how cub's are timed but the sheared pin is a good place to start. The worst case would be a camshaft out of time with the crankshaft, and I have seen that happen before so if the pin in the flywheel is good looks like the motor may have to come out. Also a stuck open intake valve would do that.
Hmmmmmm,,, Good advice. Maybe I'll pull the valve covers off and make sure they are opening and closing before i pull the flywheel. I'm hoping at this point its just the key. I cant believe how good it ran,then I parked it and came back the next morning and it sounded then like it sounded on the video.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose Pull the valve covers and the plugs and make sure the valves open and close and at what you think are the right times, could be 45 deg off and backfire through the carb.
Very good video,you have to have a lot of patience to do that,and I would have trouble seeing those small parts.I am sorry to hear about someone stealing your videos.There is a video of a person calling a goat or sheep and he/she comes hopping down the hallway in the house,and about 5-10 people stole the video and put it up as their own.
I Have a habit of preforming a blow test after installing the needle & float. Blow into the gas inlet tube and work the float up & down and check for leakage in the needle & seat.
the bottom butterfly is spring loaded. should it always snap back closed when not hooked up? mine has very little tension and only closes about half way.
Did you put new spark plugs in I had a john deere that was doing the same thing the spark plugs looked fine but I still replaced them and now it runs great
Yep. First thing I did.
For everyone wondering about their P/N for the carb kit, Kohler does not include the rebuild kit number in their parts break downs due to the many variations in engine performance specs and options. To get the correct number, a parts rep from a dealer has to call Kohler, they will need the engine model and arrangement numbers. Go to jackssmallengines, partstree, PSEP and CALL THEIR 1-800 NUMBER, or visit your local small engine shop, they will be able to get you what you need. This kit should run around $60 US.
The engine has a Sam ignition system on it and they were junky! So if you find the keyword is OK I would go to that ignition system they make a conversion kit that gets rid of all of that crap comes with a new fly wheel because the magnets in a different spot.
Mine was acting the same way and that's what I found wrong put the new conversion kit on ran great
Hello...is there a way to check with a timing light to see if the key is sheared. It seems strange that it ran so well for those couple hours now to have jumped timing like that. I can't believe the key has sheared. Has it ever severely backfired? Good luck on the repairs.
There actually is a way to check timing with a light. Im just gonna pull the magneto though. It will give me a chance to check the crank seal and clean the stator and check the magnets.
Is the seat for the float part of the body, or a rubber insert in the body? Thanks!
Very helpful video, thanks!
What is the model number/ rebuild kit, and is it available on Amazon?
Great knowledgeable video btw. Thanks.
itsbeen to many years since i did this. I cant remember.,
@@bctruck okay, thanks.
Found ball bearing in air filter housiing on kohler 26. Where would it have come from?
Not a clue.
You gave it a good shot and I am sure you will figure it out!
lawn mowers and bare feet. I don't have that much testosterone. GREAT VIDEO THANKS!
is their a way to adjust this carb from lean to rich is thier limiter caps
By experience was saying a timing problem withthe backfire from the earlier video. And I would have siad the distributor was off by a "tooth" but no distributor...didn't even think about loose or sheared key on the flywheel effecting your timing. Be waiting for that next video to see if that's the culprit!
Sometimes you got to go through all the systems to find a problem..you most certainly had or would have a carb issue regarding rotted O-Rings that would have gotten you sooner or later. So you've got that off the list.....
yeah the carb absolutely needed rebuilding so it wasnt a waste of time or money (15 bucks). Ill get back on it in a few days.
+BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose I have a Kohler 18.5hp & a Rebuild kit for it is 115.00 ...so I set out to buy a new carb or a good used one instead & found you cant buy them anywhere new they dont make one for it.
Thanks for makeing this do you know anything about taking the governor out of the motor Kohler commando ? The reason why I ask is because I've done it but I haven't ever road run the motor also the heads and intake is port and polished I grinded a little deeper relief in the head to trying to achieve higher compression
I'd love to hear that running!
How can I get kit for the wrking on the same carburator 24 053 23
I was wondering if the jet you removed from the upper half of the carb, brass cylinder,holes up and down the barrel, with O Rings on the end. Were both ends of the cylinder open? Could you see daylight down the center line of the cylinder? Just removed the jet on my carb, just like yours, and one end is closed. Is that normal? BTW, great videos!
Cary Kennedy
That’s normal. That tube has 2 sections, closed.
that rubber tube when you first started the video can gas blow back in the carb from that tube ?
That rubber tube just goes to the air breather to capture fumes.
@@bctruck well i got a lincoln welder with that motor it will run for a couple minutes then it bogs down starts smoking then starts running right again for a minute or two starts the whole process again any ideas ? thank you for replying
@@jtreedog409 it’s hard to diagnose an engine but I would think you have an orifice partially plugged.
@@bctruck ok thank you again
Tinkering, thats why like your vids
Im fixing to make a little something out of pvc pipe in just a few. Just got back from the big city and as soon as I drink a cup,I'm getting to work.
great video but question if you would be so kind. You stop the video at one point and say you will cut back in when you figure out where the orings go. At the point you cut out, you are holding the brass thing I think it may be called the slow jet(multiple holes in it, it has 2 orings on it). NOT the piece where the solenoid goes into. You were also struggling with the orings on it when you were talking about swearing when someone stole your video or something. Do you remember if those orings are both the same size and if the kit came with 2 of them? They look like they are the same size but one is deformed and it looks bigger but it may just have stretched?? I am having the same problem you did trying to figure out which orings go on that jet. Are both the same size?? Thank you
Sorry Scott but I can't remember that far back.
Where did you get that kit from? I have a 25 hp kohler for my Go Devil and it has the same carb. I can't get it to run without holding the choke
sorry,its been so long that I cant remember.
Very nice video good job!!
Thanks!
another thing to check with a flooding issue is the engine oil. pull the dip stick and smell the oil. it shouldnt smell gassy. It should also be the same thickness and stickiness as new oil or thicker as the oil gets dirty.
That was the first think I checked. I had one once that did just that. I had the cleanest internal engine ever!
one came into the shop where the owner ignored the oil completely. something hot made it into the crankcase and the gas exploded. no fix to that engine. every single piece was damaged somehow couldnt even salvage points or coils
Do you work on small engines still?
I work on my own stuff.
I do still have a library of all the small engine parts books and a bunch of stuff on micro fiche including a fiche reader that I dont need anymore
Hey, enjoyed the video. Very informative. I noticed you put a part number 12853177S as a replacement part for this particular engine. I have a Kohler command with a KEIHIN with a serial number of 2405332 and underneath that is 17E LA Im having difficulty finding a repair kit. Where do you order your repair kits? And is that part number that you gave compatible with my carburetor? Thank you!
+Tamra Parker I dont know about compatability,but I order my parts from jacks small engines.
Kohler Part # 2475703S Carburetor Repair Kit Keihin
What part number in that carb kit I need the same one . And where did you get it thanks
Sorry! I dont have the part number and its been so long I cant remember where I got it.
Do you happen to know the kit rebuild number and where you got it? I can't find this kit anywhere online and don't want to spend $175 + for a replacement carb. Complete engine tag is illegible so I'm not quite sure which carb I have but the one you have is very similar. The link in your post is not the same carb, unless the picture is the wrong one. Appreciate any help.
I dont. This was done a while ago and i no longer have the mower.
Thank you for the reply
can you tell me when you got the rebuild kit? I have looked everywhere and cant seem to find one, i have exact same carb and took apart with your video. My gasket is bad and all the internal parts were gummed up
I get all my parts at, www.jackssmallengines.com/equipment/lawn-mower
yes sir i understand that, i looked on there already and wasnt able to find it. My carb has a little different number but it is identical to that one in your video. 24 053 32 for a lincoln ranger 8 welder/generator. I wasnt able to find it so thought i would ask more specific.
Cody Lorance did you ever find it. I'm having same problem
Why?
Does the cylinois heat up
This is a ten year old video. I’m not sure what you’re asking me.
70% of my repairs on this type of carb is due to the fuel shut off valve being stuck either open or closed and it's usually a dirty plunger in the solenoid that needs cleaning & lubed.
How can i find the rebuild kit on amazon?
As cheap as carburetors are now, it would be easier to replace it than to rebuild it. amzn.to/3YC3WZd
It’s the fuel stop solenoid on side of carb hints the back fire!!
Can someone, anyone, help me? I got a Toro 22' XT675 recycling front wheel power walk behind mower, no primer. I got it about 5 or 6 yrs ago. It always started right up on first or second pull, best mower I've had. Last year I wasn't able to mow for a few months and had a lawn service do it during that time. When I tried the mower again it wouldn't start. Tried taking off and cleaning carb, it was pretty badly weathered, so I began a hunt for a replacement carb. Its like there is no known record of the original. The part # on the carb shows 14053 55, but even Kohler can't find it. I've found another, with the exact body, but the upper mechanism for butterfly controls is different.. its part # 14053 90. Then theres another I've found where the mechanisms are the same as the original, but the body is a bit different..part # 14853 56. I can't find a reference to the original part # anywhere. Anyone have any ideas?
Did you ever figure this out? was it a sheared key?
It wasnt a sheared key and I never figured it out./ I sold it for exactly what I had into it. I have a small shop and can only work on one at a time. Im still puzzled as to what it was.
@@bctruck I know this is an old video, but I did this carb today... It takes forever for the bowl to fill up, I ran it on carb clean until it caught up and ran.
@@smallie42 did you get your fuel delivery problem sorted? I am trying to diagnose a carb problem on a Kohler and when I empty the carb it only takes about 10 seconds of cranking to fire up , I would suspect you have a suction leak in the fuel line , a dirty filter or a leak in the vacuum hose to the fuel pump
please where I can find
its manual
repair
You can probably find one at jackssmallengines.com
www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=document_general_info&products_id=34596
i need to know where you got a rebuild kit for this. i have looked everywhere
jenise german it’s been a long time but I get nearly all my parts from jacks small engines.
Good job!!
Thanks!
Keep 'em comin' :)
Link to service manual: www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/sm_24_690_06.pdf
I was thinking intake I havnt redon a carb for a long time
Ill get back on it in a few days and get it apart and have a look.
try stiky exhaust valve
Guys who steal and make profit from it are just low life's. But in the end they will be judged. You have a good starter and battery there!
I'd say the valves need adjusting..
Hydraulic lifters dont need adjustment
Kecuesta el carburador
youll get it!
Im gonna keep at it until it runs!
replaced my 200 dollar kohler carb for 35 bucks on amazon lol
Valves
6:25
You’re missing a small o gasket top left, above the screw.
Wow! Between your two comments, I’m convinced that you should do repair videos. RUclips could use someone who can point out all the wrong ways of doing things. Oh wait. RUclips is full of those. Thanks for stopping by.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose
Quality, quantity?
RUclips has a lot of videos but it’s sometimes difficult to find the right info.
And of course, it’s easier to find the errors in an existing video than to create a new video.
I have just rebuilt this carb (not tested yet) and I learned a lot. I wish I had the filming and narration skills you have, I would explain the content of the rebuild kit and where each part goes.
BCtruck, rebuild, repair,repurpose
If you were local we could team up. I could the technical portion and you could do the video portion.
As always the busy bctruck. Good video.