Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Leak 2010 Dodge Ram Pt I: Seal Removal & Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- This 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 TRX4 has a common issue with that the Transfer Case Output Seal will leak after it reaches 100,000 miles or more. We will be replacing Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal in this 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 TRX4 with 131,000 miles. This is a common leak that all 4x4 trucks will have no matter what make or model it is.
Part II We will be topping of the fluid in the transfer case and retesting the seal for leak.
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Great video guy's! Helped me a whole bunch.
I don't see you tube team videos where your both under the truck heck yes going ham and potatoes with class. Very informative. My dad has a 2004 dodge ram 1500 we are replacing a tcase. Like the pictures you showed it grenades and my dad bought it because of that. He got it for 1,000. Truck has 200000 plus miles. I now consider the seals may have caused the tcase to burn up and go kaboom . Salute to you two for taking your time to teach a real world view. 🫡
Thank you for the awesome comment! What a deal for that easy fix! I suppose the T-case wasn't cheap to buy used?
/K&K
@@KNKRNR Yeah I think it was a good deal. My dad was wanting to put a engine in the same truck he already has that blew. It was a 2wd so and engine would have been more work then the transfer case. I'm glad I didn't have to mess with the exhaust to fit that big old transfer case in. At a junkyard about 100 miles away he got it for 300ish and he bought a used front drive shaft to which was like 60 that he didn't necessarily need. It was a but thicker and had bigger ujoints so that was a plus. I actually went to the wrong junkyard one time and wasted a day doing that but oh well what can I say. There was also a company LKQ selling one for 300 deliverd to their department like an hour and half away. I'm glad for your video and glad to leave a good response on your channel.
Oh and no back fees on the truck but registration will be due and also a check engine light which we were told has something to do with the fuel tank but I haven't googled the code or nothing.
Bravo on a job well done guys.
I had my transfer case implode on my 01... transmission shop was surprised at what happened. There was no damage to anything except the innards of the case. Of course, that doesn't mean much. It cost me a bit but I had my trans built with a diesel shift kit, and a stronger t case. U was using my half ton to haul chords of green oak firewood. So you can only imagine the abuse she got
Green oak is heavy!!! Those t-cases are tough but you can find their limits if pushed hard enough.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR i found it! Haha. Live and learn. I remember the mechanic saying there was pretty much no metal pieces, just all flakes, dust I guess. The second time around (5 years later) I said screw it. It was time for a heavy duty ram instead. I found a gen 3 power wagon, which is a perfect setup. Then hurt my back at work a few months later (2 surgeries and 5 years now) and it's never hauled any firewood. Irony right there. But she's moved some weight. I'd rather not though. It's expensive to fix this truck
Thanks, great video.
Glad you liked it!
/K&K
THX
Man the dude that owned it before really put it through hell
Good stuff
Glad you enjoyed the video!
/K&K
EXCELENT
👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾 Great video!
Great video, thanks for sharing! I have a 2006 3500 and my leak is at the yoke versus the transfer output seal? There is fluid all over the u-joint and under body above the shaft.
Why would there be a seal in the yoke? Is this repairable or does the yoke need to be replaced?
Nice vid
Just had my seal pop right out didn't know what it was looks like i can just slap a new one in 4wd works fine still just gotta fill her up been running it dry for 2 weeks I guess with no seal hopefully this will fix it.
Yikes sounds like the seal just fell out. Even with a seal leak it does take some time to completely empty the transfer case. Hopefully losing fluid for two week you should be okay. This case had 1.5 Qt in it from leaking for about 10k miles and its been fine after the repar.
/K&K
I have to remind my self my truck is not a quad
Canada truck for my 2018, PEI to be specific of province, the province where vehicles get wrecked quick. 96k miles and it is starting.
2003 dodge truck 4x4, Ive replace the seal twice, still leaks, so I had a trusted mechanic replace it with the dodge oem part, week later leaking, anything else I can do
So here is your problem you need a speedy sleeve that adds a thin piece of stainless steel to the yoke so the seal can cut in a new ride line in. Other option is to replace the Yoke in the driveline, but that can cost a pretty penny compared to a simple speedy sleeve installation.
/K&K
You can also get a new tail shaft housing for $170 with a new brass bushing and seal. You'll need to inspect the propeller shaft to make sure it's not grooved/overly worn, elese it'll continue to leak
Thx guys!!
Waiting for filling and leak test
Check out part 2 link below
ruclips.net/video/MB3WlUh4YSs/видео.html
/K&K
Do you know what is the part number of output seal of my 2013 Ram 1500 V8 4.7L??need help
I show two listing from Autozone for that seal depending if you have the NP243D or Borg Warner 4444 or 4445 transfer case You will need to verify which transfer case you have. There will be a tag on the transfer case so you identify which one you have. Part number(s) are listed below for both; Borg Warner seal part number is (Duralast Part # 710726) and the NP243D (Duralast Part # 4503N). I hope this information will help you out.
/K&K
How important is it to mark the drive shaft location? I ask because I have to replace my rear differential flange that connects to the drive shaft. It busted while driving. So I have no idea where it left off. I'm putting a new transfer case seal, new u-joints and a new flange
This rule only applies to the old U-joints not new ones. If you ever take that driveshaft off for any reason and reuse those U-joints be sure to mark the driveshaft before removal.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR oh awesome! Thank you!
Did that drive shaft move around at all with the bad seal? Mine is leaking and I need to fix mine but I feel like there is a little play we’re it go’s into the transfer case.
Yes, there should be some minimal movement up and down that's normal so the driveshaft can move in and out depending on the load. Dodge has a know issue with the seal leaking after 100,000 miles.
/K&K
Just started the process of removing the drive shaft got 1 bolt the others are solid as a fright train cant move them at all tried a 12 inch braker bar tried kicking it tried my full weight nothing they won't budge and inch any suggestions remember truck is on jack stands no real room for any leverage . Plz need help.
@@THOMAS01ify Try putting the bolt you took out back in then try to loosen up the locked one up first. The cap bolts work off each other. If that doesn't work you need to get some "Freeze off" and spray the locked up bolt a few times then try to break it lose. Those bolts should be tight but not that tight as you should be able to remove with a wrench with a small cheater bar. Kicking it won't provide enough torque to remove that bolt if its rusted in the treads. Also I would hit that bolt and the flange few times with some WD-40 and let it sit for a few minutes. Those cap bolts can be hard but if you keep at they should break loose. I know in the past I have gone the wrong way with the wrench and I was tighten not loosen the bolt so make sure your going the right way, I know it may sound silly but it happens even to us.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR got her all done had to anchor a come along to a tree and tighten her up then hit with wd 40 and smack the shaft some rotate and do it over who ever put it on used lock tight and about 100lbs of tourq two of them i broke loose by wedging myself against the tire and pushing my full weight on a 12 inch breaker bar latterly.
@@THOMAS01ify Yikes that's a lot of torque for those little bolts. Glad to hear you were able to get it fixed. :)
/K&K
I just did this tonight and i didnt mark it how do I know if it's in correct spot or not
Well if your doing 55-70 MPH and feel a driveline vibrations then flip the driveshaft 180 degrees, if there's no vibration at 50-70 MPH then your most likely fine. The vibration test is the only test we use if we don't mark the drive line before removal.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR will do thanks for fast reply
Also just found out it's still leaking
@@HamptonHelly Sometimes those seals have to break in a new ride line to seal after installations. I wounder if you might have a drive line issues that is causing the driveshaft to not run true causing the seal to leak. What year of Dodge do you have and how many miles are on it?
/K&K
It's going to the shop tomorrow some friends mine said it might be the yolk and it has 170000km ram 1500 2015 thanks for the tips tho
Dodge switched after 2001 my old 01 2nd gen had those junky u-joint straps and i hated them on the u joint
Yeah our roads up in Canada are bad . Constantly gotta wash your vehicle
My oil seal looks small and thin it doesn’t have the protective boot
Wounder if that been replaced before? The one we took out was the OEM seal.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR I think it was a rear axle seal...wrong part but I would’ve put it on if it fit
I lived in CA, yes rust free. But we find them mudholes. I buried my jeep deep enough that I had to climb out the back hatch. I no longer have that jeep, nor do I live in commiefornia. I now live in the free country of Montana, which is quickly turning into far northern CA lol
Yup the California's are coming to my town as well. I can't blame them, I left So-Cal in 1993 when I was 14 years old. Lol Hi from Eastern Washington. I hear Montana is a great place to live!
/K&K
@@KNKRNR i lived in Western Washington when I was little. Last place in CA I lived was outside redding.. nothing like Socal, or the bay area. Montana has been my goal since I was 13ish. Took me 26 years to make it here, and I wouldn't care if I lived under a bridge. That's how much I like it here