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We are located in Eastern Washington near the Idaho border. /K&K

Lake station?

I was just thinking about the odds but hey I use you videos thanks

Sure links are the start of each series are below and at the end of each video you can click on the next part of the series. This is the complete story of Monte 1995 Royal 88. ruclips.net/video/Dce1YSvN1hQ/видео.html Intake gasket replacement series part 1 ruclips.net/video/OSS8a5DyBzw/видео.html Timing chain Series Intro. /K&K

No you just need to squeeze the push lock together and push the hose in and out till the hose releases. Those push lock connectors do break so be sure to have a fresh set of locks in hand before you remove them. /K&K

Thank you for the comment. It does make me nervous using a shop vac as well. We always blow the sending unit with compressed air but it doesn't get all the trapped dirt out. I should get a vacuum that uses compressed instead to be safer that's for sure. I'm not trying to blow my shop up. :) /K&K

Thank you for the awesome comments. Getting the correct hoses was a challenge for sure. /K&K

GM discontinued that part years ago, you might have to go to pull and save (local junk yard) for that "rear pump support bracket" as its considered a "hard part." Good news is that bracket was used with any TBI 4.3L, 5.0, 5.7L RPO code LB4, LO3, LO5. /K&K

Glad this video helpped you! Without the cooling fan working right it don't take much for these Aveo's to overheat. /K&K

I did mention the TSB on those screws to red loctite them, I did not do it. I tried to remove one and it just stripped out the head. Its one of those things, test the tightness but if you strip the head chances are they will stay put the life of the engine. /K&K

Glad it was helpful! /K&K

Very close, its a 2002 Grand Prix GTP 40 Anniversary year edition. Rare car as far as RPO codes. /K&K

I'm sure 40 amp battery chargers are out there, I have yet to see one. Most battery chargers run 2/10 amp modes. Battery charger manuals I have read state to "ground to block" to "avoid overheating the battery and causing cell death" so am I wrong or the battery charger manufactures? /K&K

The commentator was correct answer amps I think you got stuck on the 40 amp charger. He was just giving that as an example.

@KNKRNR each his own brother. 40 amps was just an example. Heat build-up at 2/10 amps seems unlikely. I can't speak for manufacturers, but I believe they recommend this more to reduce the possibility of arcing terminals during charging, which could ignite hydrogen produced during charging. This is a real lawyer'e thing, kinda like how everything in California causes cancer. If you take manufacturers' instructions, literally you either don't use brake clean or are cool with getting cancer.

If we install a new oil pump we will pack it with Sta-Lube extreme engine assembly lube, but this oil pump was reused so pre-lube was not needed. Once an oil pump is broke in, in theory its no different then losing the oil in the pick up tube during an oil change. Not sure I would use Vaseline for pre lube in a new oil pump. The Sta-lube is thick enough to provide lubricant protection during break in, but also allow the pump suction to pick up oil upon startup after the repair. /K&K

@@KNKRNR thank you so much, that makes complete sense!

I know i sound like a moron but this is my very first car im learning everything i can

Normal tap water has minerals and other chemicals that don't mix well coolant. This can and will damage metal, rubber, gaskets, and plastics with in the cooling system over time. Newer vehicles using different colors and types of coolants only compounds this issues even more. /K&K

In the video we aligned the timing dots 12 O'clock on the crank / 12 O'clock up before removal of the old chain not after. We do it this way to make sure we are the compression stroke. If you have taken your chain off already make sure your on the compression stroke. Take the disturber cap off and make your pointed at cylinder 1. Its real easy to be 180 degrees out if you do not align your timing dots before remove of the old chain. /K&K

Normally you would jump at the relay being its the load side of circuit and the direct path to the pump. You have to know which pin to jump or you could burn up the PCM. You should use a wiring diagram for that year and do pin point tests to find the issue if power is not getting to the fuel pump. /K&K

With the K probes you would use normal ports that the voltage probes plug into. There is also a temp symbol on the port you plug into as well. /K&K

@@KNKRNR i see the other end of the port going into the car … where inside the car should I be putting it into ? . Also I did get a bubble when I did mine at first try , I ran the car for a while still didn’t get to 205 temperatures. How do I know/ test to see everything has been good and wouldn’t over heat again

I followed every step in this video of fixing this car, thank you so much . Everything was perfectly explained. All this series was very help of , thank you soo much again

@@tomish4156 I don't think all Kliens DVM have the temp probe feature. If it does have temp test option, it will have a C/F on the selection knob. With this engine the only we can verify you have bleed it correctly is to make sure the heater stays hot. Before we bleed the rear port as shown in the video the heater would get cold at times. If the heater runs out of heat there's still an air bubble in the system. At start up the heater would get hot then suddenly would get cold. This engine became a very difficult engine to bleed. The temps we had ranged from 205F-208F after 20 minutes of running in the shop @ 80 Degrees of ambient air temp. . What brand of Thermostat did you use? /K&K

i use the OEM , got it from nissan. the heater has been getting hot, i also turn the heater on for a good 30 to hr . still hot and the hoses are hot . run the car for a well last night and heaters are hot. this morning i check the coolant tank, it was in the middle of min and max . it was at max

Did you use import green coolant when that radiator was changed out? Mixing normal Prestone green coolant with import green will causes microscopic clogging. I don't normally change radiators out unless they are clogged, leaking, or a majority of fins are damaged. /K&K

If i recall there should be holes in the power steering pump pulley to get at the 2 or 3 bolts that fasten the pump to the block. /K&K

Should hold full fuel pressure minus 5-10 lbs max for 10 minutes so no less then 44 lbs key off @10 minutes. Sadly most aftermarket fuel pumps bleed back after 30 minutes. /K&K

You can change the front thermostat only sure, but if the rear thermostat (water control valve) is stuck shut you will still have an over heating situation. If it has over 150k miles you might want to do both to make sure it runs at the temp it was designed to. /K&K

@@KNKRNR as a first timer , is it a hard thing to do myself ? i bet scared but then again i am confident i can do it by being extra cautious. a mechanic charging close to 900 to replace just that one

We will a floor jack and a block of wood to disperse the weight right under the oil pan . Be careful with the jack as you don't need much lift to remove the mount and support the engine. Doesn't take much to dent the oil pan. /K&K

Looks like you have enough fuel pressure not to lean out, vacuum leak maybe the cause of your lean codes. /K&K

@@KNKRNR I replaced the fuel pump today. Solid 55 PSI and fixed the issue. My friend owns a shop and said it should be between 55-60 PSI while running.

It's a safety factory, liquid fuel is safer to work with then a tank full of vapor. It's not to bad to remove a tank with fuel in it but going back up is a different story. Other issue then you gotta store siphoned fuel in 5 gallon tanks. These new EPA fuel cans are just awful to work with. /K&K

We always set our dots up before removing the chain then re-check alignment with a straight edge just before installation. /K&K