I have just completed my layout and observed this exact problem on the facing Peco points. I implemented your suggestions on one of them and it worked great. Thanks.
Good day Charlie ,again another great presentation and you made a lot of good "points" ha ! ha!,thats the second time ive seen your phone ring as you are ding vid ,love the way you roll your eyes and say "that will be the phone then!!!!" keep em coming Charlie ,Take care ,Mac
nah no need to turn it off as you fan club wont be able to get hold of you and you need it for your photography business , its all part of showing you just a normal down to earth guy.
Brilliant video Charlie I had the same problem but just got me dremmil and put a bit of packing in to support it between the rails and ground back the edge of the blades slightly didn’t realise the switch rails had moved back, a good tip keep finding these please.
Hello, Charlie! What a pleasure to meet a man full of information, rather than himself. (The unfortunate outfall of giving such a platform to every ebullient chap in need of "stardom.") Thanks so much for these informative tips. I'm just considering modeling in 009, and this is just the sort of encouragement I need. I must say that another of your McKinley colleagues, David Townend, has caught my attention for the same reasons: calm, informed, vastly experienced, and most pleasant. Kudos to the both of you. And best wishes for a brilliant 2022 from a new fan "across the pond." FH - Reinbeck, IA, USA.
Brilliant tutorial Charlie, again; this has been a nemesis for me, nearly all my points are old and second hand. This modification has not only saved me replacing all my twenty points but saved me a fortune in the process, many, many thanks, keep up the excellent work.
just started in the hobby (at 72) really enjoying and learning so much, not sure if i've been a bit overambitious but have started out with N gauge and i've got fingers like pork sausages but i'm persevering with it
Evening Charlie watched your video about the evergreen strips for improving points l found some on ebay but I used it to get better contact for my train tech sensor signals prongs that go between the sleepers and rails and it was a success so I would recommend it to your other viewers who want better contact with train tech sensor products like signals thanks for showing this product on your channel it has lots of possibilities for model railways Thanks again Best wishes Kev Beighton Parkway
Bloody brilliant! That's just sorted out the most annoying Peco Code 75 point in the universe (which just happened to be on my layout!). My railway room is going to be a far less sweary place as a result. Thanks for that Charlie - much appreciated.
after watching this Im going to check the club layout for the blade movement . we have 3 areas of occaisional derailments on tacing points. thanks for another excellent tip
Charlie, great idea on how to remedy a very nasty problem. That little plastic piece will save many headaches. One trick I am going to remember. Thanks for sharing. Ken
Another terrific video with lots of really helpful tips, described and explained in such a way, even beginner modellers like me feel like I want to try to make these changes and be confident doing so. Brilliant. I SUBSCRIBED!!
Ahh, the light-bulb has come on! I had a really troublesome point on my last layout, and I've worried my plan may fail because of these issues, but you have just shown me how to solve my problems with this simple and elegant solution! Thanks Charlie!!
verry fine job, Charlie I am sure your trains will roll verry smoothly on this point . I appreciate the use of a precision file.thanks a lot for this tip.
At last, thank you for your tips and hints, it's great to have someone talk about derailment. I thought it was me! Well yes it was but not entirely, so I'm very grateful. Thank you
Thank you very much Charlie, I will have to wait till the morning. But I certainly am having those problems with 2 of my switches. This has highlighted an area I had not thought of. Thanks once again from Australia.
Hi Charlie thanks for publishing this video it's been most helpful as I too had a couple of problem points armed with this information I will put your tips to good use. I also use a 3 way point but have no issues with that.
Hi Charlie, very useful info and I have had to trim one of my N gauge points in the past. Didn’t put the rod in so I must go back to it and fix it in. Many thanks for sharing as this is invaluable info to know..Chris
Thanks Charlie for another great informative video. I have 2 Peco Code 100 3 Way Turnouts (Points) on my layout. One worked perfect and still does strait out of the box. The other one constantly derailed on selecting left turnout direction. The place I buy most of my stuff from sent out the same day a replacement. Received it a few days later, Installed it and worked perfect. Since then have never had a problem with them and my layout gets a work out. I think it is the luck of the draw just like anything you get good ones and bad ones.
Charlie is dead on with his suggestions. I would like to share from my personal experience dealing with Peco Turnouts what I have observed. 1) Do not under any circumstances make them a tight fit. Give them some wiggle room. Any pressure on them by a tight fit will cause them to bend/flex and in turn derailments. 2) Do not force them to lay flat. If it doesn't want to fine, if it does fine also, makes no difference in performance, let the turnout decide. Once again forcing them to lay flat if they do not want to will cause them to bend/flex and you got it derailments. 3) Sometimes no mater how hard you try nothing works, a defective turnout is just plain defective but rare for Peco.
Charlie - Thanks for the tips on getting the pecos reliable and for all your very helpful videos. I had similar problems when resurrecting my HO gear to return to the hobby after many years away. I had four old Atlas switches, the ones with the actual rails, not the bent sheet metal kind, and a bunch of newer ones that have the bent metal points. My old switch machines were rusted solid but the newer ones worked. The problem was that approaching from the point side would eventually result in a derailment. After many attempts to adjust the switch machines over the course of a couple of years by following advice from the internet did little to solve the problem, I finally was able to get these old switches reliable. Here's what to do: 1: check the plastic frogs for wear. Either file the plastic or use styrene plastic inserts to recondition them, On my switches I only needed to file the plastic to recondition the pointy end on the frogs. This should reduce the chances that wheels will "pick" the frog; 2: file the ends of the points for a better fit against the stock rails; 3: Check the height of the movable points and shim them if they are too low. This, along with step 2, lessens chance that wheels will "pick" the points ( I think so anyway) ; 4: if the rivets are loose where the rails pivot they can be made snug using superglue. Apply a small amount of liquid s.g. to the edge of the rivet and move the points back and forth until the glue sets. This should get rid of some of the slop while still allowing the points to pivot. Newer Atlas switches use a different design for the pivots. You can also use a punch and anvil to snug them up but be careful; 5: this is the big one - throw away the old switch machines and get new solenoid or other type of switch machine. The supplied switch machines will not reliably hold the points against the stock rails! If you purchase new Atlas switch machines, don't get the switches that include the switch machine. If you care to, watch my video on the switch machine problem and a solution on my channel. I have video on fixing the frogs as well but it is awaiting editing and uploading. Since I've made these repairs to the worst switch on my test track several months ago I've not had a single derailment, even running my old Mantua "Mike" 2-4-2 over it at full chat! Hope this is of some use. -Dave
Thanks Charlie. Forgot one: 6: Check the track gauge. Pay particular attention to the diverging point rail as well as the straight point rail as they can warp over time. Carefully bend them back into gauge. Also I neglected to emphasize that the derailments also occurred regularly when running the non-diverging points setting. Oh, if you watched my video, I found the missing spring on the carpet about a week ago. It just suddenly appeared. Go figure! -Dave
Excellent tips Charlie - a very nice modification! I'm installing Peco turnouts on my layout now - this info was very timely for me! Thanks for sharing. Best, John
Timely video. Took a Drumel to my blades in the hidden fiddle yard only last week! But had not thought about the movement issue will take another look. Also found a couple of blades with a slight twist and or low vs the stock rail.
Hi Charlie, another brilliant tip to try! as yet to put any track down, corresponded with you a short while ago re back to ‘basics’ in would love to see how you do your back to back points as understanding facing/trailing etc plus insulating /wiring. Kind regards Eddie🤓
Brillant!!! Absolutely Brillant!!!! I have been having issues like this for the past week on my layout and now you have answered the burning question, should I buy new switches, I am glad that I saw this, thank you, Sir.
Excellent! Thanks Charlie. I have 4 Peco 3 way points but fortunately they are only in areas such as the loco shed where trains pass over them at very slow speed - so far they seem to be OK.
If you leave the springs in the tie bar does not move backwards. I removed all the springs from 009 points on a new layout I was building to be controlled by servos only to find the blades were falling out so had to put all the springs back in, not vert easy with all the track laid. On my OO layout with servo controlled points the points not click over with the springs still in the servo stops this. You should be able to do this with your tortoise motors as well. I have 6 x three way points and they do not give any problems but they are Peco code 75 and these are a different type of three way point. Cheers Alec
Hey Sean, Charlie may, or may not, confirm this but you may have to use a different size of plastic strip for N gauge. Being half the size, there will be less clearance. I would be interested to know how you get on if you do try this fix.😊 Cheers, Dougie.
Hello Charlie, I have done this to peco and it can help on atlas turnouts also. The atlas are very loose on the slide and by adding a piece of styrene it gives more tension and operates better. Anyway this is just one of the many problems with turnouts ...good vid.
As a thought for modern image layouts, the plastic could be painted orange to look like cable trunking. Great video as always, can’t wait to see the ‘finished’ layout in years to come. Thanks, Owen.
Hi Charlie, never considered this one. IS this because we remove the spring? I do see the end piece from its mounting on the operator to where it fits into the main rail maybe slightly bent inwards so it does not fit into the cut out in the main rail, maybe bend out a smidgeon [very very small amount] or file off the end as you did. I run my thumb over the inside of the rail, if I can feel a bump it needs a bend or a file. Many thanks for all your good work, you have made railroading life easier for everyone. regards Bob
You have showed the (hopefully) answer to a lot of problem solving I believe for pointwork. Avoidance of 3 way & slips too ;-) Thank you for another informative video Charlie. Iain
Hi Charlie. I’ve had the same problem which is made worse when you remove the Peco springs for Tortoise/Cobalt style slow motion devices. I too have tried plastic strips but find that it binds the tie bar meaning the tortoise points actuator(being quite thin), bends more and can’t push the tie bar fully across. An alternative solution that DCC Concepts recommends for Cobalts is to bend the actuator wire so that is pushes the tie bar towards the nose of the crossing/frog and thus keeps the blades in their proper position. Another solution I have used in my fiddle yard is a bent piece of piano wire in the four foot on top of the sleepers with one end poked down the central hole of the tie bar and the other bent round a track pin about 6 or 7 sleepers towards the nose/frog. I’m about to start on code 75 Peco points on the scenic part of my layout and I think there is less of an issue with them as they are hinged/fixed at the end and can’t move forward. So that’s my favourite solution: use Peco code 75 and avoid Peco code 100! Hugh
More sound advice cheers Charlie. I can't remember ever having any issues with my code 75 Peco points, I did however switch the frog polarity which is what I have to do on my hand built track anyway. Its certainly not a waste of time, if it solves the issues you are having, its a no brainer to carry this out.
Thanks for this idea Charley, checking Evergreen's catalogue they make a .030" x .060" x 14" / .75mm x 1.5mm x 35cm version as well - if a slightly wider strip is needed. It's part number is 133.
Hi Charlie. My problem with peco 100 points is the gap at the end of the frog. It acts as a small well for the wheels on locos and wagons to dip into like a pothole in the road when your car hits it. I've cured that by doing away with peco 100 and changed all my track and points to peco 75. Much better now.
Very interesting.... The few issues that I have, were put down to lack of weight on certain rolling stock. A bit late for me doing the plastic strip - 98% of track laid and ballasted but I can look at doing the point blades.
Very valuable information; I have a few issues with points and I must try this. I wonder why Peco cannot address this in the design/manufacturing process ?
I use Tortoise motors, I use 0.9 mm wire for the activation of the point. I also mount the point motor so that a slight tension is put on the blade holders so that it cannot do what yours have done. However I also use solenoid motors so I will be modifying those points. Thanks its a good tip.
Very useful Charlie. I am going to the train room later..it would be interesting to see if thisworks in N Gauge. I am already modifying my points with a tiny piece of plasticard to stop wheels dropping into the vee of the electrofrog. Cheers, Bob
I had problems with certain carriages and wagons coming off on PECO points. Not tried this yet, but will take a look at the points. I got around it by fitting 14mm wheel sets. The gap appeared too long at the end of the Frog and the wheel dropped down into it (12 &13 mm wheel sets) Replacing the wheels did the job! :-)
Excellent video Charlie. Haven't laid the track that will require points yet but they are Peco Electrofrog and will most certainly adopt the plastic insert. Dread to think about trying to do anything after being ballasted !!! Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
I've also got a custom build double slip installed and it is fitted with a range of extra drop wires leading towards the Dcc ring feed or the tortoise point motors (I'm a huge fan of them) It might seem overkill but in the end the double slip never gives me any trouble.
Thanks, Charlie, I installed the last seven points on my layout last month... I wish you had made this video much earlier... Still, I have down loaded it for reference and added it to my collection. I will also buy a stock of Evergreen strip next wekk - just in case!
Over in the US I work on a layout called the Turtle Creek Railroad. This layout is unusual in that it is made up of moderately difficult switching puzzles strung onto each other and when you operate you run from town to town switching every one. As such we have about 250 peco turnouts of all shapes and sizes and well over half feed power thru the points. A common problem we have is dust, stray ballast, etc. collecting on various points of the turnout impeding power flow. Our late track superintendent's solution to this problem was a magic toothbrush. Whenever a turnout was acting up, a good scrub with Carl's magic toothbrush solved most any problem.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm Fairly new to this Charlie coming back into it at 62 !!! my layout still under development a few videos can be seen on youtube Robley Town.
Thank you for your guidance on point derailments. My points are Peco 009 and, by and large, they are fine. However, I have two which a a bit naughty. Like you explain, back-to-backs need checking first and are all OK. The pony-truck on the occasional loco, decides to jump the track, as it meets the switch rail. As a result, when it meets the frog, it decides to follow the divergent route, whilst the driving wheels follow the correct route. It does appear to stem from the switch-blade standing proud of the stock-rail by the tiniest amount, so I will try your solution, thank you.
What a great idea with the styrene strips. I did not even know the curved turnouts had such a problem , and my plan is to have 5 of them in total. One other thing, after much suffering with trying to bend over my layout to do something to the points that I should have done earlier, I know inspect and test any new points being put in at my work desk. I also tend to give them a start at weathering while there as that avoids my having to lean over my layout just to do weathering. YMMV.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well, if you insist upon continuing posting such excellent videos then I feel compelled to find them useful. The answer is quite simple, drop severely the quality of your videos and I will stop being impressed.
Great tip Charlie! Good timing too. I am still laying track. My turnouts are made to be removed from the track work by allowing the track joiners to slide under the rails thus allowing the turnout to be easily removed. That way I can make adjustments when needed. I model with O-16.5 Peco track for American narrow gauge I will incorporate the fix while rewiring the turnouts for DCC. Nothing ruins a video more than locos and rolling stock jumping up as the train passes through a turnout. One thing about narrow gauge is the lack of complicated track. 3 way turnouts would have been too expensive for a logging or mining railway to employ. Gives me a valid excuse not to use those on my layout. Tip: Occasionally there is that annoying gap between sections of rails that is usually discovered later causing rolling stock to visibly bounce as it passes over the gap. Usually it occurs when bending flex track around curves. Sometimes we don't notice it until all the curve is laid. One might think the only way to fix it is to pull up the track to adjust for it. Instead one can use little squares of Evergreen styrene to fill the gap, glue it in with super glue, then file it to the contours of the rail. A little rust colored paint will hide it. Have you done a video discussing track expansion and contraction due to changes of temperature in the train room? Also, why one should not let direct sunlight through a window fall on the layout? Thanks for posting the materials list in the comments section. My only local hobby shop closed here October 31st. I did buy up a lot of scenery materials and Atlas Code 83 HO track to strip out for bridge guard rails. I found a source for the Evergreen styrene on eBay.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My layout is indoors too. However, the temp in that room can be as much as 82 degrees in the summer so, I keep a portable A/C unit in there during the summer. During the winter the temp can drop as low as 60. I do not think that room was insulated when it was built.
Charlie with your coupling probllems why don't you use SYMOBA close couplings they have a NEM pocket on the extention for KD couplings to just clip them in what ever extention variation you need I use them on my marklin wagons and coaches they are available in UK produced in Germany maybe expensive but worth looking at I am a great fan 😁 of programs good luck regards len marks Cape town South Africa
Charlie, Thank you so much for this easy tip for Peco points. As well as fileing the toe end of the blades I find some of the points also can have a slightly rough edge where the pressed metal blades touch the rail section in the center of the point. Just gently rub your finger over this area and you'll soon notice this rough edge. To fix this I cut a 75mm x 20mm strip of cork ( road bed ) and glue a strip of 800 grade emery paper to this. Then a few rubs over the area will soon smooth it out. My major problem at the moment is Peco's Smartswich system. Having bought all the bit's all wired in, motors work trains run straight threw. Throw the point all dead. The wiring diagrams for this system are very poor. At the other end of the layout I'm using Tortoise point motors. Plug in wire up all running as sweet as a nut, go figure. I'm using Peco Electro Frog points. Sorry to moan on . Cheers, Chris Perry.
Very interesting Charlie. I wonder how many of us have got rid of stock because of constant derailing when it was the points to blame and not the stock at all. Maybe see you at Warley if you are attending, regards Bobby 'T'.
Thanks for another useful video, Charlie. I think part of this problem is that some years ago PECO made the code 100 tiebars narrower. I have been using PECO code 100 track & points for 40 years & the tiebars on my older points are wider than current products. Also the blades are probably being produced from quite old moulds (or however they are made) as PECO don't seem to check that the blade ends are profiled correctly. A final point is that too many new wagons have incorrect back to back measurements. I find this is especially the case with plastic axles. Recent brand new Bachmann tank wagons were all "out of gauge" & had to be reset. Once reset I also put a little superglue on the inside of the wheel/axle which seems to keep them in gauge.
I'd never have thought about that kind of modification Charlie, thank you for sharing it. The plastistrut seems like a worthwhile thing for sure, I am past the point where I can do it on my layout but I am planning an exhibition one which will include 2 or 3 code 75 curved points, so this seems like a must. Until the next video, Alex.
A interesting video Charlie even though I am a N-Gauge modeler myself. The peco 3 way point is a bit troublsome in Peco code 55 (N-Gauge). I used one on my old layout and ended up adding feeds while it was in situ,fiddly, but improved it no end.
It would be interesting to know whether Peco’s new Unistrut points which are replacing Electrofrog and Insulfrog solve the problems. In some other ways they are improvements. With regard to the filing, the way I have seen this done is to file the main rails to increase to size of the notch in the rails so the switch blade sits in the notch and does not interfere with the loco wheels. That method probably also helps stopping the blade moving forward as it is held in the notch. Love your videos and presentation style.
Hi Charlie. This is again a very useful and informative video. I've used peco code 100 track and live frog points for a number of years without any real problems. Providing the points are laid perfectly flat they should be ok . Having said that, occasionally I've had to adjust the plastic catch rails by bending the ends in a little. Why they don't make these out of metal I don't know. The only serious issue was with Dapol six wheeled milk tank wagons that kept derailing and I ended up fitting Bachmann wheels and the problem was solved. Apparently this is a common complaint with these wagons. Keep well and stay safe. Cheers Chris.
Very ingenious solution to the blade movement issue! Please commend McKinley Railway for me! Filing the tip of the blade can go a long way in improving performance.
Similar issues with the N gauge Peco points as well, however another issue to watch out for is where the moving switch rails meet the fixed frog. You noted that if the switch rails move, they create a gap which can cause derailment, but I've also had an issue at that joint, because the switch rails are slightly narrower than the standard rail in the frog. This creates a small notch on the inside of the diverging track (curved rail) which can cause some lighter stock to jump, especially if going through a crossover. Hopefully that makes sense?
Hi Charley I will have 41 points(Peco 75 electro frog) on my layout. 8 will be on the Oval Mainline (with an inside freight loop), other 33 in Terminal Station, MPD & Fiddle Yard off the ML. I’m thinking 8 medium radius Mainline & 33 small radius. All movements off the Mainline will be slow speed. I would appreciate your input !
Chadwick Model Railway The layout is loosely based on Bath Green Park. Some background scenery, but inside the layout mostly railway oriented. ECoS controller with DCCCONCEPTS, 4 x Cobalt Alpha Central units, 2 x Cobalt Alpha Power & 2 Alpha Box. Controlling 50 sound Locos, DCCCONCEPTS, 41 SS points, 38 mimic GPS & 9 Train Tech signals.
Charlie you may recall I commented a couple of months ago about you inspiring me to build a new layout - great video, but didn’t answer my question. I ordered a number of Peco electrofrog points and I’m having difficulty soldering the frog wires. I’m pretty efficient with the soldering stick having built electrical circuits since my teens. But I can’t get these things to hold. I’ve tried flux on them before I solder to tin the single wire, and tin on the stranded dropper wires, but during installation they just don’t hold (I installed 6 points today and had to re-solder half of them - have 7 more to do). Any tips or tricks?
Hi Steve, First, I'm so sorry if I missed your question first time around. Yes they can be a challenge. I always tin both the cable and the frog wire first and solder them together prior to laying down. I use 60:40 resin core solder, without any extra flux. The iron's temperature is around 3/4 power. I'm sorry if that doesn't help but they are never easy. Regards Charlie.
I have 5 Hornsby points plus the motors, the motors work how they should of the points but when the points are fitted they don’t work at all .thank you Kevin
G'day Charlie, the expression "back to back gauge" is something that I haven't heard of, or seen, previously. I wonder if it is an English expression - like the Americans use the word "switches", for what we in Australia call points? I thought that I should know the expression as I attend a long running club and have some very clever modelling mates. Looking on eBay reveals only one choice, to purchase (and it is from the UK). A Google search shows that DCC Concepts (a UK company) has a product for sale - albeit out of stock in HO gauge. I'm asking about this tool - whilst not the main thrust of your video - as it is something that I can see immense value in - thank you for demonstrating it. I recently purchased a Kadee coupler height gauge to resolve some issues with Australian brand SDS Models "ready to run" rolling stock - the trip pins on the Kadee's seem too low, and catch on points. But then that last sentence of mine may have some people in the UK scratching their heads - as it seems from watching various RUclips videos, Kadee's are not the "preferred choice" in the UK... Please keep up the great work with the videos.
Removal of the spring can also cause these issues as well. When installing my Cobalt point motors I tend to place the motor slightly back towards the closure rails thus causing the thin metal throw rod to bend slightly and therefore places pressure on the rails to keep them forced back at the hinge. (if that makes any sense!)
I’ve been having the exact same problem when removing the springs to install cobalt motors. Was almost at the point (no pun!) of reverting to solenoids so I could leave the springs in place. Hopefully retrofitting these evergreen strips solves the problem. Thankfully I’ve not ballasted the track yet so should be able to slide them in.
Great video as always. If you think OO 3 way points are troublesome - just thank your lucky stars you aren't modelling in N gauge. I use 5 of them and they are, how shall I say, high maintenance! Euan
Hi Charlie, hope you had a great holiday. I look forward to your regular blog as you always show something interesting. Great tip re points and many thanks to McKinley. Could you encourage them to get that snippet on double slips up soon? I'm in the process of installing several code100 on my layout. I think I can see what they are trying to do and will have a closer look and try myself - my bigger problem I have with them is the wheel drop into the wells they seem to have which catch out double bogie diesels badly. Any tips for that?
My first thought is this. Perhaps we can solder the gap? I say this as the force of a “Tortoise”/“Cobalt” will close the switchblades with some pressure. IF this doesn’t work (some trials would need to be conducted on spare or redundant points), then it might also be possible to remove the chairs from the rest of, or at least some of, the rails towards the frog. (See the real thing). Just a thought and it’s an area I am going to look at now I’ve seen this Charlie. I must check the “Unifrog” points, of which I have a few, but I think these are one piece rails as in the real thing. Will check.
I've noticed a problem with Peco N gauge points, where the point blades meet the frog. When a train is going into a point, towards the frog, taking the diverging route, the wheel flanges tend to get caught, as it seems Peco uses a smaller width rail for the moving point blades. This create a small ridge on the inside of the rail where the two join. When a train is taking a straight route this is not an issue. However if the train is taking the DIVERGING route, the wheels rub the rails, hit this ridge and jump the track. Hopefully that makes some sense...? :P
I have just completed my layout and observed this exact problem on the facing Peco points. I implemented your suggestions on one of them and it worked great. Thanks.
That’s exactly what this community is about. Brilliant.
Good day Charlie ,again another great presentation and you made a lot of good "points" ha ! ha!,thats the second time ive seen your phone ring as you are ding vid ,love the way you roll your eyes and say "that will be the phone then!!!!" keep em coming Charlie ,Take care ,Mac
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it MT. One day I’ll learn to turn the phone off!
nah no need to turn it off as you fan club wont be able to get hold of you and you need it for your photography business , its all part of showing you just a normal down to earth guy.
Thankyou. Very useful and I'll be doing these improvements on my N Gauge layout in preparation to using servo point motors
Thanks David, I’m so pleased that you found a video interesting. Regards Charlie
Brilliant video Charlie I had the same problem but just got me dremmil and put a bit of packing in to support it between the rails and ground back the edge of the blades slightly didn’t realise the switch rails had moved back, a good tip keep finding these please.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Michael.
Hello, Charlie! What a pleasure to meet a man full of information, rather than himself. (The unfortunate outfall of giving such a platform to every ebullient chap in need of "stardom.") Thanks so much for these informative tips. I'm just considering modeling in 009, and this is just the sort of encouragement I need. I must say that another of your McKinley colleagues, David Townend, has caught my attention for the same reasons: calm, informed, vastly experienced, and most pleasant. Kudos to the both of you. And best wishes for a brilliant 2022 from a new fan "across the pond." FH - Reinbeck, IA, USA.
What a heartwarming comment Frederick. Good luck with your 009 project and best wishes for 2022.
Regards Charlie
Brilliant tutorial Charlie, again; this has been a nemesis for me, nearly all my points are old and second hand. This modification has not only saved me replacing all my twenty points but saved me a fortune in the process, many, many thanks, keep up the excellent work.
So pleased that you found it useful.
Instablaster
Just found your channel and it it a gold mine... thank you so much.
I’m so pleased that you have found the channel useful. Regards Charlie
just started in the hobby (at 72) really enjoying and learning so much, not sure if i've been a bit overambitious but have started out with N gauge and i've got fingers like pork sausages but i'm persevering with it
N-Gauge can be a bit of a struggle AM. I wish you good luck with your project, regards, Charlie
Evening Charlie watched your video about the evergreen strips for improving points l found some on ebay but I used it to get better contact for my train tech sensor signals prongs that go between the sleepers and rails and it was a success so I would recommend it to your other viewers who want better contact with train tech sensor products like signals thanks for showing this product on your channel it has lots of possibilities for model railways
Thanks again
Best wishes
Kev Beighton Parkway
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Kev.
Bloody brilliant! That's just sorted out the most annoying Peco Code 75 point in the universe (which just happened to be on my layout!). My railway room is going to be a far less sweary place as a result. Thanks for that Charlie - much appreciated.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it BC1
very good video, I have 2 3-way points and fortunately they have been very reliable in the 8 years that they have been installed.
You’re a lucky man Simon, every time I’ve bought one of those points I’ve had problems.
after watching this Im going to check the club layout for the blade movement . we have 3 areas of occaisional derailments on tacing points.
thanks for another excellent tip
Is the three-way points that are the worst John, so keep an eye on those. Regards Charlie
Charlie, great idea on how to remedy a very nasty problem. That little plastic piece will save many headaches. One trick I am going to remember. Thanks for sharing. Ken
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ken.
Another terrific video with lots of really helpful tips, described and explained in such a way, even beginner modellers like me feel like I want to try to make these changes and be confident doing so. Brilliant. I SUBSCRIBED!!
It’s great to have you onboard Chris
Excellent video Charlie!!
Fantastic tips for correcting point problems (and making sure that wheels are gauged properly!!)
Cheers Derek
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it DL.
Ahh, the light-bulb has come on! I had a really troublesome point on my last layout, and I've worried my plan may fail because of these issues, but you have just shown me how to solve my problems with this simple and elegant solution! Thanks Charlie!!
That’s great news John, regards Charlie.
Top tip Charlie. I don't currently have any big problems but I shall store this one away in the memory bank for the future. Cheers.
Thanks Davie, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
verry fine job, Charlie I am sure your trains will roll verry smoothly on this point . I appreciate the use of a precision file.thanks a lot for this tip.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Pierre. Regards Charlie.
At last, thank you for your tips and hints, it's great to have someone talk about derailment. I thought it was me! Well yes it was but not entirely, so I'm very grateful. Thank you
Thanks Paul , I’m so pleased that you found it useful mate. Regards, Charlie
Thank you very much Charlie, I will have to wait till the morning. But I certainly am having those problems with 2 of my switches. This has highlighted an area I had not thought of. Thanks once again from Australia.
Thanks Ian, I’m so pleased that you have found it useful.
Hi Charlie thanks for publishing this video it's been most helpful as I too had a couple of problem points armed with this information I will put your tips to good use. I also use a 3 way point but have no issues with that.
Hi Giles, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Always nice to learn. Thanks Charley
So pleased that you enjoyed it Charles
Hi Charlie, very useful info and I have had to trim one of my N gauge points in the past. Didn’t put the rod in so I must go back to it and fix it in. Many thanks for sharing as this is invaluable info to know..Chris
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Chris.
Thanks Charlie for another great informative video. I have 2 Peco Code 100 3 Way Turnouts (Points) on my layout. One worked perfect and still does strait out of the box. The other one constantly derailed on selecting left turnout direction. The place I buy most of my stuff from sent out the same day a replacement. Received it a few days later, Installed it and worked perfect. Since then have never had a problem with them and my layout gets a work out. I think it is the luck of the draw just like anything you get good ones and bad ones.
An interesting point B68, thanks.
Charlie is dead on with his suggestions.
I would like to share from my personal experience dealing with Peco Turnouts what I have observed. 1) Do not under any circumstances make them a tight fit. Give them some wiggle room. Any pressure on them by a tight fit will cause them to bend/flex and in turn derailments. 2) Do not force them to lay flat. If it doesn't want to fine, if it does fine also, makes no difference in performance, let the turnout decide. Once again forcing them to lay flat if they do not want to will cause them to bend/flex and you got it derailments. 3) Sometimes no mater how hard you try nothing works, a defective turnout is just plain defective but rare for Peco.
Charlie - Thanks for the tips on getting the pecos reliable and for all your very helpful videos.
I had similar problems when resurrecting my HO gear to return to the hobby after many years away. I had four old Atlas switches, the ones with the actual rails, not the bent sheet metal kind, and a bunch of newer ones that have the bent metal points. My old switch machines were rusted solid but the newer ones worked. The problem was that approaching from the point side would eventually result in a derailment. After many attempts to adjust the switch machines over the course of a couple of years by following advice from the internet did little to solve the problem, I finally was able to get these old switches reliable. Here's what to do:
1: check the plastic frogs for wear. Either file the plastic or use styrene plastic inserts to recondition them, On my switches I only needed to file the plastic to recondition the pointy end on the frogs. This should reduce the chances that wheels will "pick" the frog;
2: file the ends of the points for a better fit against the stock rails;
3: Check the height of the movable points and shim them if they are too low. This, along with step 2, lessens chance that wheels will "pick" the points ( I think so anyway) ;
4: if the rivets are loose where the rails pivot they can be made snug using superglue. Apply a small amount of liquid s.g. to the edge of the rivet and move the points back and forth until the glue sets. This should get rid of some of the slop while still allowing the points to pivot. Newer Atlas switches use a different design for the pivots. You can also use a punch and anvil to snug them up but be careful;
5: this is the big one - throw away the old switch machines and get new solenoid or other type of switch machine. The supplied switch machines will not reliably hold the points against the stock rails! If you purchase new Atlas switch machines, don't get the switches that include the switch machine.
If you care to, watch my video on the switch machine problem and a solution on my channel. I have video on fixing the frogs as well but it is awaiting editing and uploading.
Since I've made these repairs to the worst switch on my test track several months ago I've not had a single derailment, even running my old Mantua "Mike" 2-4-2 over it at full chat!
Hope this is of some use.
-Dave
Well what a great and detailed comment Dave.
Some great advice.
Thanks Charlie.
Forgot one:
6: Check the track gauge. Pay particular attention to the diverging point rail as well as the straight point rail as they can warp over time. Carefully bend them back into gauge.
Also I neglected to emphasize that the derailments also occurred regularly when running the non-diverging points setting.
Oh, if you watched my video, I found the missing spring on the carpet about a week ago. It just suddenly appeared. Go figure!
-Dave
Great little video and went out on my railway and slid several point blades back.
That’s great Peter.
Excellent tips Charlie - a very nice modification! I'm installing Peco turnouts on my layout now - this info was very timely for me! Thanks for sharing. Best, John
I’m so pleased that you found it useful John.
Very timely tip. I’m about to start laying track on my new layout.
Thank you
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Hansfriess.
Thank you for taking the time to make the video Charlie, informative as always
Thanks, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Timely video. Took a Drumel to my blades in the hidden fiddle yard only last week! But had not thought about the movement issue will take another look. Also found a couple of blades with a slight twist and or low vs the stock rail.
Good spot Howard. Regards Charlie
There's always something useful a new to be learned. Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it OF.
Some great points you made on how to improve your turnouts. Thanks for your help!
You’re most welcome Joe.
Thanks for the info will now attempt a couple of n gauge points that are giving ttrouble on my layout. Thanks
Good luck Shaun.
Great practical tips. Appreciated Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Hi Charlie, another brilliant tip to try! as yet to put any track down, corresponded with you a short while ago re back to ‘basics’ in would love to see how you do your back to back points as understanding facing/trailing etc plus insulating /wiring. Kind regards Eddie🤓
It’s on the long list Edward.
Your a star!🤓
Brillant!!! Absolutely Brillant!!!! I have been having issues like this for the past week on my layout and now you have answered the burning question, should I buy new switches, I am glad that I saw this, thank you, Sir.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it SBRR
Excellent! Thanks Charlie. I have 4 Peco 3 way points but fortunately they are only in areas such as the loco shed where trains pass over them at very slow speed - so far they seem to be OK.
That’s good news TJ. I was coaching stock and steam locos that were the worst for me.
Thank you for your video. Perfect timing. I now have to do some mods to my points before laying my storage yards tomorrow morning.
Great timing Hamish.
If you leave the springs in the tie bar does not move backwards. I removed all the springs from 009 points on a new layout I was building to be controlled by servos only to find the blades were falling out so had to put all the springs back in, not vert easy with all the track laid. On my OO layout with servo controlled points the points not click over with the springs still in the servo stops this. You should be able to do this with your tortoise motors as well.
I have 6 x three way points and they do not give any problems but they are Peco code 75 and these are a different type of three way point.
Cheers Alec
Hi Alec, thanks for the info.
Your points are called isometric I believe. Clearly much better than the old Code 100 that I “treasure “!
Excellent video and great advice, I shall be checking my suspect points now
Good for you Gary.
Thank you for the tip Charlie, I have same problem with a couple of my n scale turnouts. I will surely check them out for this problem.
Hey Sean, Charlie may, or may not, confirm this but you may have to use a different size of plastic strip for N gauge. Being half the size, there will be less clearance. I would be interested to know how you get on if you do try this fix.😊
Cheers,
Dougie.
Interesting, N must be more difficult.
@@ChadwickModelRailway it is especially when the eyesight isn't as good as it use to be
Great tip Charlie , If I have any issues with any of my Pico turnouts I hope I remember your tips and tricks .. Thanks Charlie, Jim
Thanks Jim, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Absolutely brilliant tip. Timely as ever.
Thanks Tony, you’re too kind.
Great video and very informative, thank you Charlie so much
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Graham.
Always a great hints....thanks for sharing....Jack
You’re welcome Jack.
Hello Charlie, I have done this to peco and it can help on atlas turnouts also. The atlas are very loose on the slide and by adding a piece of styrene it gives more tension and operates better. Anyway this is just one of the many problems with turnouts ...good vid.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Adrian.
Off to check a troublesome point thanks to your info Charlie!
Good luck Kev.
As a thought for modern image layouts, the plastic could be painted orange to look like cable trunking.
Great video as always, can’t wait to see the ‘finished’ layout in years to come.
Thanks,
Owen.
Thanks Owen you’re too kind.
Hi Charlie, never considered this one. IS this because we remove the spring? I do see the end piece from its mounting on the operator to where it fits into the main rail maybe slightly bent inwards so it does not fit into the cut out in the main rail, maybe bend out a smidgeon [very very small amount] or file off the end as you did. I run my thumb over the inside of the rail, if I can feel a bump it needs a bend or a file. Many thanks for all your good work, you have made railroading life easier for everyone. regards Bob
What a heartwarming comment Bob. I was just trying to take out the play manufactured into the switch rails.
You have showed the (hopefully) answer to a lot of problem solving I believe for pointwork. Avoidance of 3 way & slips too ;-) Thank you for another informative video Charlie. Iain
Thanks Iain, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie. I’ve had the same problem which is made worse when you remove the Peco springs for Tortoise/Cobalt style slow motion devices. I too have tried plastic strips but find that it binds the tie bar meaning the tortoise points actuator(being quite thin), bends more and can’t push the tie bar fully across. An alternative solution that DCC Concepts recommends for Cobalts is to bend the actuator wire so that is pushes the tie bar towards the nose of the crossing/frog and thus keeps the blades in their proper position.
Another solution I have used in my fiddle yard is a bent piece of piano wire in the four foot on top of the sleepers with one end poked down the central hole of the tie bar and the other bent round a track pin about 6 or 7 sleepers towards the nose/frog.
I’m about to start on code 75 Peco points on the scenic part of my layout and I think there is less of an issue with them as they are hinged/fixed at the end and can’t move forward. So that’s my favourite solution: use Peco code 75 and avoid Peco code 100! Hugh
Thanks for the info Hugh.
I always use thicker piano type wire on my tortoises.
More sound advice cheers Charlie. I can't remember ever having any issues with my code 75 Peco points, I did however switch the frog polarity which is what I have to do on my hand built track anyway. Its certainly not a waste of time, if it solves the issues you are having, its a no brainer to carry this out.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Nige.
Thanks for this idea Charley, checking Evergreen's catalogue they make a .030" x .060" x 14" / .75mm x 1.5mm x 35cm version as well - if a slightly wider strip is needed. It's part number is 133.
Thanks Paul , great info, I shall check it out. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. My problem with peco 100 points is the gap at the end of the frog. It acts as a small well for the wheels on locos and wagons to dip into like a pothole in the road when your car hits it. I've cured that by doing away with peco 100 and changed all my track and points to peco 75. Much better now.
A useful tip CPR. I would too if I were starting afresh.
Very interesting.... The few issues that I have, were put down to lack of weight on certain rolling stock. A bit late for me doing the plastic strip - 98% of track laid and ballasted but I can look at doing the point blades.
But you can still check those blades for movement
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank you, I will.
Very valuable information; I have a few issues with points and I must try this.
I wonder why Peco cannot address this in the design/manufacturing process ?
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Charlie, regards Charlie
I use Tortoise motors, I use 0.9 mm wire for the activation of the point. I also mount the point motor so that a slight tension is put on the blade holders so that it cannot do what yours have done.
However I also use solenoid motors so I will be modifying those points. Thanks its a good tip.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Sam.
Great video Charlie and perfect timing as my track is down and weathered but not ballasted yet. Now another project before I ballast!
Hey, great timing Dan
Very useful Charlie. I am going to the train room later..it would be interesting to see if thisworks in N Gauge.
I am already modifying my points with a tiny piece of plasticard to stop wheels dropping into the vee of the electrofrog. Cheers, Bob
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob.
Great tip Charlie , I use peco as well , the narro gauge . Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bert.
I had problems with certain carriages and wagons coming off on PECO points. Not tried this yet, but will take a look at the points. I got around it by fitting 14mm wheel sets. The gap appeared too long at the end of the Frog and the wheel dropped down into it (12 &13 mm wheel sets) Replacing the wheels did the job! :-)
An interesting option Anthony.
Excellent video Charlie. Haven't laid the track that will require points yet but they are Peco Electrofrog and will most certainly adopt the plastic insert. Dread to think about trying to do anything after being ballasted !!! Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Thanks Rick, I’m so pleased that you found the video useful. Regards Charlie
I've also got a custom build double slip installed and it is fitted with a range of extra drop wires leading towards the Dcc ring feed or the tortoise point motors (I'm a huge fan of them)
It might seem overkill but in the end the double slip never gives me any trouble.
Hey, if it works, great.
Thanks, Charlie, I installed the last seven points on my layout last month... I wish you had made this video much earlier... Still, I have down loaded it for reference and added it to my collection. I will also buy a stock of Evergreen strip next wekk - just in case!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Over in the US I work on a layout called the Turtle Creek Railroad. This layout is unusual in that it is made up of moderately difficult switching puzzles strung onto each other and when you operate you run from town to town switching every one. As such we have about 250 peco turnouts of all shapes and sizes and well over half feed power thru the points. A common problem we have is dust, stray ballast, etc. collecting on various points of the turnout impeding power flow. Our late track superintendent's solution to this problem was a magic toothbrush. Whenever a turnout was acting up, a good scrub with Carl's magic toothbrush solved most any problem.
Thanks Charlie, that’s very interesting.
Thank you Charlie well presented video clear instructions. keep on educating us.
You’re too kind Rob.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm Fairly new to this Charlie coming back into it at 62 !!! my layout still under development a few videos can be seen on youtube Robley Town.
I’ll check it out Rob.
Thank you for your guidance on point derailments.
My points are Peco 009 and, by and large, they are fine. However, I have two which a a bit naughty. Like you explain, back-to-backs need checking first and are all OK. The pony-truck on the occasional loco, decides to jump the track, as it meets the switch rail. As a result, when it meets the frog, it decides to follow the divergent route, whilst the driving wheels follow the correct route. It does appear to stem from the switch-blade standing proud of the stock-rail by the tiniest amount, so I will try your solution, thank you.
John, I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
What a great idea with the styrene strips. I did not even know the curved turnouts had such a problem , and my plan is to have 5 of them in total.
One other thing, after much suffering with trying to bend over my layout to do something to the points that I should have done earlier, I know inspect and test any new points being put in at my work desk. I also tend to give them a start at weathering while there as that avoids my having to lean over my layout just to do weathering. YMMV.
myyou tubeacct I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well, if you insist upon continuing posting such excellent videos then I feel compelled to find them useful. The answer is quite simple, drop severely the quality of your videos and I will stop being impressed.
Great tip Charlie! Good timing too. I am still laying track. My turnouts are made to be removed from the track work by allowing the track joiners to slide under the rails thus allowing the turnout to be easily removed. That way I can make adjustments when needed. I model with O-16.5 Peco track for American narrow gauge I will incorporate the fix while rewiring the turnouts for DCC. Nothing ruins a video more than locos and rolling stock jumping up as the train passes through a turnout.
One thing about narrow gauge is the lack of complicated track. 3 way turnouts would have been too expensive for a logging or mining railway to employ. Gives me a valid excuse not to use those on my layout.
Tip: Occasionally there is that annoying gap between sections of rails that is usually discovered later causing rolling stock to visibly bounce as it passes over the gap. Usually it occurs when bending flex track around curves. Sometimes we don't notice it until all the curve is laid. One might think the only way to fix it is to pull up the track to adjust for it. Instead one can use little squares of Evergreen styrene to fill the gap, glue it in with super glue, then file it to the contours of the rail. A little rust colored paint will hide it.
Have you done a video discussing track expansion and contraction due to changes of temperature in the train room? Also, why one should not let direct sunlight through a window fall on the layout?
Thanks for posting the materials list in the comments section. My only local hobby shop closed here October 31st. I did buy up a lot of scenery materials and Atlas Code 83 HO track to strip out for bridge guard rails. I found a source for the Evergreen styrene on eBay.
Thanks S98. My layout is in doors so I don’t have heat expansion issues. You’ll have to ask elsewhere.
@@ChadwickModelRailway My layout is indoors too. However, the temp in that room can be as much as 82 degrees in the summer so, I keep a portable A/C unit in there during the summer. During the winter the temp can drop as low as 60. I do not think that room was insulated when it was built.
Thanks, Charlie. Layout pending.
Good luck with your project NBA.
Good advice Charlie, I had a bad turnout and wound up tossing it. I wish I knew then what you just showed everyone.
Thanks James, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Great video, it's a goer for me as I'm in process of rebuild....
Great Richard, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Nice one Charlie - simple but effective. The simple tweaks are always the best. Can we have more Chadwick and less McKinley please?!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Randal.
Great tip Charlie, will be doing this to all my peco points
Glad to help John.
Charlie with your coupling probllems why don't you use SYMOBA close couplings they have a NEM pocket on the extention for KD couplings to just clip them in what ever extention variation you need I use them on my marklin wagons and coaches they are available in UK produced in Germany maybe expensive but worth looking at I am a great fan 😁 of programs good luck regards len marks Cape town South Africa
Good tip there Charlie, I'll take that on board and check what few points I have on my layout. Thank you for your advice.
Cheers
Geoff
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Geoff.
Charlie, Thank you so much for this easy tip for Peco points. As well as fileing the toe end of the blades I find some of the points also can have a slightly rough edge where the pressed metal blades touch the rail section in the center of the point. Just gently rub your finger over this area and you'll soon notice this rough edge. To fix this I cut a 75mm x 20mm strip of cork ( road bed ) and glue a strip of 800 grade emery paper to this. Then a few rubs over the area will soon smooth it out. My major problem at the moment is Peco's Smartswich system. Having bought all the bit's all wired in, motors work trains run straight threw. Throw the point all dead. The wiring diagrams for this system are very poor. At the other end of the layout I'm using Tortoise point motors. Plug in wire up all running as sweet as a nut, go figure. I'm using Peco Electro Frog points. Sorry to moan on . Cheers, Chris Perry.
Tortoises should rule the world!
Very interesting Charlie. I wonder how many of us have got rid of stock because of constant derailing when it was the points to blame and not the stock at all. Maybe see you at Warley if you are attending, regards Bobby 'T'.
Thanks Bobby, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. I’ll be at Warley on the Saturday.
Thanks for another useful video, Charlie. I think part of this problem is that some years ago PECO made the code 100 tiebars narrower. I have been using PECO code 100 track & points for 40 years & the tiebars on my older points are wider than current products. Also the blades are probably being produced from quite old moulds (or however they are made) as PECO don't seem to check that the blade ends are profiled correctly.
A final point is that too many new wagons have incorrect back to back measurements. I find this is especially the case with plastic axles. Recent brand new Bachmann tank wagons were all "out of gauge" & had to be reset. Once reset I also put a little superglue on the inside of the wheel/axle which seems to keep them in gauge.
Interesting points Pat, thanks.
I'd never have thought about that kind of modification Charlie, thank you for sharing it.
The plastistrut seems like a worthwhile thing for sure, I am past the point where I can do it on my layout but I am planning an exhibition one which will include 2 or 3 code 75 curved points, so this seems like a must.
Until the next video, Alex.
Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you found it useful
A interesting video Charlie even though I am a N-Gauge modeler myself. The peco 3 way point is a bit troublsome in Peco code 55 (N-Gauge). I used one on my old layout and ended up adding feeds while it was in situ,fiddly, but improved it no end.
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting L 26.
It would be interesting to know whether Peco’s new Unistrut points which are replacing Electrofrog and Insulfrog solve the problems. In some other ways they are improvements.
With regard to the filing, the way I have seen this done is to file the main rails to increase to size of the notch in the rails so the switch blade sits in the notch and does not interfere with the loco wheels. That method probably also helps stopping the blade moving forward as it is held in the notch.
Love your videos and presentation style.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Andrew.
Hi Charlie, thanks for showing those tips I wouldn’t have known about that issue, and I would have been pulling my hair out. Kind regards alex
Thanks Alex, I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
Hi Charlie. This is again a very useful and informative video. I've used peco code 100 track and live frog points for a number of years without any real problems. Providing the points are laid perfectly flat they should be ok . Having said that, occasionally I've had to adjust the plastic catch rails by bending the ends in a little. Why they don't make these out of metal I don't know. The only serious issue was with Dapol six wheeled milk tank wagons that kept derailing and I ended up fitting Bachmann wheels and the problem was solved. Apparently this is a common complaint with these wagons. Keep well and stay safe. Cheers Chris.
Chris I'm so pleased that you found the video useful.
Regards Charlie
Very ingenious solution to the blade movement issue! Please commend McKinley Railway for me! Filing the tip of the blade can go a long way in improving performance.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Flyboy.
Good instruction. I do wish you would used another brand since Peco is found wanting. Would you have used a plastic piece on another brand?
Here in the UK, there is no real competiton to Peco JD.
Such great information Charlie - thankyou.
My pleasure John. Regards Charlie
Similar issues with the N gauge Peco points as well, however another issue to watch out for is where the moving switch rails meet the fixed frog. You noted that if the switch rails move, they create a gap which can cause derailment, but I've also had an issue at that joint, because the switch rails are slightly narrower than the standard rail in the frog. This creates a small notch on the inside of the diverging track (curved rail) which can cause some lighter stock to jump, especially if going through a crossover. Hopefully that makes sense?
Yes it makes perfect sense Billy.
Masters classwork. Well played! 👍
Thanks AD, you’re too kind.
Hi Charley
I will have 41 points(Peco 75 electro frog) on my layout. 8 will be on the Oval Mainline (with an inside freight loop), other 33 in Terminal Station, MPD & Fiddle Yard off the ML. I’m thinking 8 medium radius Mainline & 33 small radius. All movements off the Mainline will be slow speed. I would appreciate your input !
Hi Charley,
That’s not much to go on but I would avoid the small radius points if at all possible.
Regards Charlie.
Should have said 00 10’X10’ area, 11 road fiddle yard on top. Station on bottom 4 7’ platforms. 9 road MPD to right.
But will you have any room left for the scenics?
Chadwick Model Railway The layout is loosely based on Bath Green Park. Some background scenery, but inside the layout mostly railway oriented. ECoS controller with DCCCONCEPTS, 4 x Cobalt Alpha Central units, 2 x Cobalt Alpha Power & 2 Alpha Box. Controlling 50 sound Locos, DCCCONCEPTS, 41 SS points, 38 mimic GPS & 9 Train Tech signals.
Top tip for superglue, keep it in the fridge and it never goes off or clogs up the top.
Wow, I never knew that.
Superglue needs moisture to make to work, fridges these days are very dry so it’s a great place to store it.
Charlie you may recall I commented a couple of months ago about you inspiring me to build a new layout - great video, but didn’t answer my question. I ordered a number of Peco electrofrog points and I’m having difficulty soldering the frog wires. I’m pretty efficient with the soldering stick having built electrical circuits since my teens. But I can’t get these things to hold. I’ve tried flux on them before I solder to tin the single wire, and tin on the stranded dropper wires, but during installation they just don’t hold (I installed 6 points today and had to re-solder half of them - have 7 more to do). Any tips or tricks?
Hi Steve,
First, I'm so sorry if I missed your question first time around.
Yes they can be a challenge. I always tin both the cable and the frog wire first and solder them together prior to laying down. I use 60:40 resin core solder, without any extra flux. The iron's temperature is around 3/4 power.
I'm sorry if that doesn't help but they are never easy.
Regards Charlie.
I have 5 Hornsby points plus the motors, the motors work how they should of the points but when the points are fitted they don’t work at all .thank you Kevin
Sorry Kevin, but I have no Hornby points or Hornby point motors. Perhaps you could ask on a Facebook page.
G'day Charlie, the expression "back to back gauge" is something that I haven't heard of, or seen, previously. I wonder if it is an English expression - like the Americans use the word "switches", for what we in Australia call points? I thought that I should know the expression as I attend a long running club and have some very clever modelling mates. Looking on eBay reveals only one choice, to purchase (and it is from the UK). A Google search shows that DCC Concepts (a UK company) has a product for sale - albeit out of stock in HO gauge. I'm asking about this tool - whilst not the main thrust of your video - as it is something that I can see immense value in - thank you for demonstrating it. I recently purchased a Kadee coupler height gauge to resolve some issues with Australian brand SDS Models "ready to run" rolling stock - the trip pins on the Kadee's seem too low, and catch on points. But then that last sentence of mine may have some people in the UK scratching their heads - as it seems from watching various RUclips videos, Kadee's are not the "preferred choice" in the UK... Please keep up the great work with the videos.
I’m into Kadees too. Good luck with ordering the back to back gauge.
Regards Charlie
Removal of the spring can also cause these issues as well. When installing my Cobalt point motors I tend to place the motor slightly back towards the closure rails thus causing the thin metal throw rod to bend slightly and therefore places pressure on the rails to keep them forced back at the hinge. (if that makes any sense!)
That makes perfect sense Richard.
I’ve been having the exact same problem when removing the springs to install cobalt motors. Was almost at the point (no pun!) of reverting to solenoids so I could leave the springs in place. Hopefully retrofitting these evergreen strips solves the problem. Thankfully I’ve not ballasted the track yet so should be able to slide them in.
Hey, Charlie! Missed seeing you! Great pointers on modifying these switches for better reliability. Looking forward to the wiring video from McKinley!
Thanks Pat, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Great video as always. If you think OO 3 way points are troublesome - just thank your lucky stars you aren't modelling in N gauge. I use 5 of them and they are, how shall I say, high maintenance! Euan
Hi Euan, you must have the patience of a saint
Hi Charlie, hope you had a great holiday. I look forward to your regular blog as you always show something interesting. Great tip re points and many thanks to McKinley. Could you encourage them to get that snippet on double slips up soon? I'm in the process of installing several code100 on my layout. I think I can see what they are trying to do and will have a closer look and try myself - my bigger problem I have with them is the wheel drop into the wells they seem to have which catch out double bogie diesels badly. Any tips for that?
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’ll have a chat with McKinley and see what they say.
This is going to be very helpful when I get my first loco (hopefully) at Christmas, a OO scale HO guage (all OOs use HO track) hornby
Thanks EH, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
No problemo,
My first thought is this. Perhaps we can solder the gap? I say this as the force of a “Tortoise”/“Cobalt” will close the switchblades with some pressure. IF this doesn’t work (some trials would need to be conducted on spare or redundant points), then it might also be possible to remove the chairs from the rest of, or at least some of, the rails towards the frog. (See the real thing).
Just a thought and it’s an area I am going to look at now I’ve seen this Charlie.
I must check the “Unifrog” points, of which I have a few, but I think these are one piece rails as in the real thing. Will check.
Interesting remarks RML and I’m so pleased that you found it useful.
I've noticed a problem with Peco N gauge points, where the point blades meet the frog. When a train is going into a point, towards the frog, taking the diverging route, the wheel flanges tend to get caught, as it seems Peco uses a smaller width rail for the moving point blades. This create a small ridge on the inside of the rail where the two join. When a train is taking a straight route this is not an issue. However if the train is taking the DIVERGING route, the wheels rub the rails, hit this ridge and jump the track. Hopefully that makes some sense...? :P
It makes perfect sense Billy. Try and file the switch blade to make it a finer fit.