Because I had clicked on the 'Bell,' I WAS informed when this video hit the airwaves. Thank you for posting this. I enjoyed listening to to your planning ideas,
Charlie, - up front I must admit I am not a railway modeler and I have no idea how I came across your channel many moons ago. But I am so glad I did. I really enjoy your honest,, simple. enthusiastic, comedic approach - its so lovely. I feel I am living your new layout with you and I enjoy every video you post. Please keep it up. Really lovely heart warming stuff. Thank you
Thank you Charlie, You have inspired me to get cracking again. I had a layout 2 years ago, but made the novice mistake - too much track. So, now I am starting again. Thanks again for your videos, Full of great info. Chris
Hi Charlie, I use AnyRail. I find it very easy to use and the way the individual track pieces snap together makes it very easy to rapidly put together a plan. Also by using layers you can experiment with different plans for areas making the ones that you don't want to see invisible. Thanks for some great videos.
I have used Foam track bed on wood in the past & it was fine. However I now build on a 40mm thick high density foam board. My layout is long & narrow ( 6500 x 1000) which is great not only from the sound point of view, but allows for “carving out” scenic areas such as steam beds etc. Thanks for the idea of a Apple Based track design package. I will give it a try. 👍👍😎
Looking good Charlie, thanks for the information about the foam road bed, i am looking into that also. Glad to see you liked it. Thanks for sharing. Ken
With the foam once you ballast the sound will return, this is due to the PVC setting the rock ballast hard, have tries cork and foam and happens with both. Great video again mate Best regards Andrew
Hi Charlie another very interesting video.I had a spot where my upper level track crossed over a tunnel and was supported by a narrow strip of hard board.Horrific sound transfer but solved the problem by using a strip of the woodland scenic foam board.Better sound reduction than cork for my money.cheers waiting for more!
Hi Charlie, I subscribed about a month ago to your channel. My intention is to build a layout in my loft, which I’m still clearing out and boarding. I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos and I’ve learnt a lot, including how to make mistakes lol. Thanks again Barry
Subscribed, after having been bingewatching your channels' videos & those of 'The Mc Kinley Railway'... / Greetings from Germany - & all my excuses for any mistakes concerning my English.
Hi Charlie, love your films, yes i keep changing my track as well problem with renting. I use the scarm programme has limits but can play around with it better. This time i printed out the track 1:1 and much easier but had a few hiccups. All working so far. But great work you do Charlie thanks.
Top episode always enjoy your episodes keep them up good job mate well done can't wait to see it all done you given me same top ideas for my new layout
Have to say Charlie, going through similar uplifting my SMP track to incorporate proper droppers (don't ask) and install Cobalts with some track plan fine tuning, you have my empathies. Mine was just Peco pinned down (with interference fit pins) so all your uplift of glued track is commendable. Its like re-engineering the whole thing properly I find...and taking the lead from the real thing instills some patience. Cheers
Charlie, I'm so happy you are moving forward with the layout. I like the idea of the black foam for the track bed. I used the cork on my layout, but I think I will try the foam. I'm laying another track on the lower level of my HO layout. I eagerly wait for your next video to see your progress. I think it will look great!
Charlie - so glad to have you back! Good to see you working with the foam roadbed; I much prefer foam to cork, also. Thanks for the referral to Railmodeler; I hadn't tried it yet. I'll let you know how that goes!
I've been using Woodland Scenics foam trackbed in N scale. The "split" mark on the N scale version isn't central, and because putting the glue down does completely obscure any track centres I want to line up to (doh!!) I've been taking to drawing in the *edges* of where the trackbed would be. What I haven't figured out is how to accurately lay the track on top, given the now complete lack of marks...
Charlie; Thank you so very much for all your videos and hard work. Im currently working on a very tricky bit at my club layout and you have solved a number of my questions and "how to's". Please forgive me if you have spoken before as to where you obtained the incline roadbed (shaped like a number of connected "z"s) fr your flyover. I happen to be in the direct market for *just* such a piece of incline roadbed as that. Thank you heartily in advance! Cheers!Scott Hill, Augusta, KS, USA
Hi Charlie - I used AnyRail which too is limited to 50 item download, but it is per file so I split may design into 3 had a file for each which did not need more than 50 items. Each section had an overlap with the other and it worked ok , when I came to lay the track there we only a few adjustments required. You can also print out a list of track you will need and also print the plan out in 1-1 scale which I found useful when it came to seeing what room I had for scenic , buildings etc and also that I didn't have points over joints in baseboards. I have done a couple of videos on it. Cheers Kev
Great video as ever. I always end up watching you current vid and then some old ones. You often raise the Pins Vs Glue question. Have you ever tried track screws? Can get diff lengths and can be applied to ensure u don't bend the sleepers downwards. Really good for lifting back up the track where not meeting correctly and can shift by milemeters to correct and screw back down. You prob already have! Looking forward to the next video. Regards
Having extended my layout to include a German theme, I opted for Fleischmann Profi track which is well engineered and using their track screws, it is incredibly secure and isolated. Typical German engineering...
@@paredding sounds great. When I finally have a proper layout I will have 00 on main layout and possibly HO above that to mimic an Alpine theme in the mountains. I love Fleischmann. Currently creating an Alpine theme to go round the Xmas tree!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I dont have a layout as such, just 2 mini test ones. I used underlay for laminate flooring on one and polystyrene sheeting backed with brown paper on the other (creating a snow look); using the screws, and both v quiet. I am no modeller though, I just put components together!!!
@@jimmydotcom6078 Similar here - my original UK outline layout was ~5m x2m with the aforementioned SMP track with code 75 Peco slips and double slips which is wht I am relaying and wiring up now. Then I added the same size for the DE section as a result of living in Munich for the past 7 years. I chose FL Profi for that as a result of watching the Hovermotion videos on YT and wanting a quicker more reliable tracklaying experience. All the points are integral surface mounted and driven by ESU Switchpilots. DCC Concepts Cobalts and AD-8FX decoders for the UK side. Its basically three long baseboards with access aisles in between. I have also planned a small Bavarian village with a log mill, the track is HOe and will run down to a Vollmer & Faller sawmill and pallet factory, over 2 large viaduct bridges. Its all a bit mad but the layout I promised myself 25 years ago...
Hi Charlie, great video as always. I use WS trackbed and Foam Tack and find them both very good. Personally though I use much less of the foam tack, just a thin smear on the baseboard. If the trackbed is weighted down for a short period afterwards it sticks fine. The big advantage then is if you do need to lift it (trust me I had to a couple of times in some areas!), it comes up quite easily without damaging the foam, put too much adhesive down and it just rips apart (again from experience) when you try and lift it. I also use the foam tack to stick the trackwork to the trackbed but again using only a thin smear and then weighting. I also use AnyRail with a licence and am very happy with it, as others have mentioned you can set your own limits, smooth slopes to set a required grade and there is a basic 3d viewer Cheers Steve
@@ChadwickModelRailway I've also exported 3D anyrail trackplans and then Imported them into Sketchup (then rescaled) to model buildings around them. Buildings are rough currently, thus... mobile.twitter.com/KnucklesSCC/status/1185596257609375745
Hi again. I was going to say about the same as the above. I use a very light coating of the Foam Tack (cheep- I am) but it works fine. I don't glue any of the points as I glue the ends of the tracks joining to them and that keeps them tight. For weight I use cans of food for the weights. If my wife wants a particular soup and can not find it, she goes to the train room. For the weight on the track I use the cans laying down and it works just fine. The cans lay in the tracks and won't roll off. Then between each can I use "T" pins to hold the track in place until the glue dries. Works for me!!!!!
Well, I will keep my fingers crossed that this is the start to the grand finale of your layout to come. Great work and fun to watch, as always. :D Cheers
An item that might have made the radius bits easier is an item I started using ages ago in model shipbuilding--T pins. Also known as "dress maker's pins" these are needle-like pins with the top bent over into a "T" shape (about 12-15mm wide). This makes them easy to poke into softer surfaces, and can be rapped with a light mallet into less-soft surfaces. You could have set a line of the pins at say, 10-15cm apart down the lined out centerline, and applied glue around them. Then, the foam could have been laid like a batten against them. Perhaps only setting the one side of the curve, then pulling pins and using the set side as the guide for the other. Maybe. Perhaps. It's my 2¢ (which is only 78% of 2d)
Enjoyable and informative Charlie as always, the cant on the rails really will add something to it, will almost have a Farnborough station feel if you carry it on through the curves in the station. Looking forward to the next installment 👌 all the best matt
I've started using laminate floor sound deadening foam underlay which comes in packs of 10 large sheets. It seem to work well and I've even layered it on my N gauge layout to create an incline.
I will look forward to the next video. I am interested in the reasons for using the foam in place of cork. I was going to lay a diorama on cork and now you are making me think otherwise. Thanks for another informative video.
Great video charlie, nice to see your not afraid to rip up the track if your unhappy with it. I'm not so sure on the woodland scenic trackbed but thats me, I've yet to advance to using cork under my track yet. Hopefully see you at Warley if your there.
any rail will also do track height, meaning if you want to do a slope up and over it can demonstrate this for you when you switch to 3d preview mode. You can also set a slope to a percentage incline so you can tell if your slope is too steep. Rule of thumb: 4mm down every 200mm along is a 1 in 50 gradient Great video as always, keep going!
I cannot believe how accurate this program is to use. When printed 1:1, with blank pages suppressed, it creates a fantastic template for track laying and reminds you of any ‘unique’ pieces you need to cut and fit. The price of this software for the full version represents excellent value IMO. T
Have you checked the gradient of the green track? I think it's going to be very steep to clear the orange lines on the left. There are some nasty kinks in both the main through lines top right. I'm sure they could be smoothed out.
Have you worked out how the parcels siding will be operated? Because you've got facing access, to prevent the loco from becoming trapped you need to run round somewhere. You could use the long orange loop to do that but that would tie up the loop for a while and involve a lot of wrong-road running. Then the reverse procedure for departing parcels? I notice there are no crossovers between inner and outer (Up and Down) lines shown so there's no way for a train to change direction on scene, including parcels trains.
Hi Phil, yes the gradient using 3% seems okay. Please don’t take the track plan too seriously, I found it quite difficult to draw. Only when I lay out the track can I be sure of workable curves. Regards Charlie
Charlie, You might find it's easyer to glue 1/2 the foam track bed snug to the predrawn line then glue the other 1/2 down. How long have you made lead in to the " canted " rail, 18''? On the prototype the outter track is canted higher than the inner track. Cheers, Chris Perry.
hi charlie don't use pva to glue your ballast down you will defeat the object of using foam, use a latex type glue magei, you can get screw fix i mixed it 40/60 water /glue doesn't set like concrete, will stop most of the sound, also are you going to cut a champer in the foam`? great video........tony
Hi Charlie - with Railmodeller Express you can always open a new "layout" and create another plan for the other sections (again with the 50 item limit). I use the Pro version a lot, and you can see the results of that with the latest video on my channel, which shows a whole "garage" full of plans I drew showing an old branch line in Northumberland :)
Hi Charlie, best do your homework on foam underlay as some products break down and disintegrate over time whereas cork does not. Apart from that, great video as always. Cheers Baz :)
Hi Baz, I believe that it’s only the soft foam like the Hornby underlay, that has the limited 10 year life. It’s great to have you onboard, regards Charlie
with regard to the track plan. If you move the two left hand curved turnouts down the straight sections you will increase the size of the curves, avoiding that unsightly kink in the curves. It should improve your running as well.
Charlie, I have noticed a few times that you encounter issues with having a mac rather than windows based pc. I would suggest you look into bootcamp, allowing you to install windows on your mac. You can use windows inactivated and all you will have is a small watermark in the corner of the screen or use an old pc serial number to activate fully.
another fine video once again solved my problem on risers. did I hear you say that you use joiners to link code 100 to code 75 if so please where can you get them thank you keith leadbitter
Hi Charlie, I use Anyrail as my layout is large (17x13) in OO but Anyrail will plan in any gauge any track system including Lego! It also has an expanding selection of signals,platforms and buildings. It also tells you if the flexitrack has been "stretched'" to far. Regards Chris
@@ChadwickModelRailway - Hi Charlie, been using a full licenced version of Anyrail for many years, can't recommend it enough, worth the money IMO. If you go to my YT Community page on my channel you can see the trackplans on it, painted in with features. Super easy to do and it won't be the 1st time I've built layouts with it. Can testify to its accuracy, I'm not sponsored to say this BTW! Just like the program. All the best, Gavin.
You have gone rather better then farther 👍 bented station, acoustic absorption and superelevation on the redone tracks. About the railcar ment to go from Chadwick Central to Chadwick Parkway and back (which had it´s own switches) - is it now going Chadwick Central -> Chadwick Parkway (downstairs) -> through the crossings and back into branch line -> Chadwick Parkway (upstairs) -> Chadwick "Industrial Park" (maybe elevated over the *new* Chadwick TMD) -> and behind stations - just a thought. Next to the hill scene, leaning on the hill, would be a nice overlooking place for a signal box and some trainspotters (named after some of your patreons) - edit have overseen the already existing scene you layed aside away for working. Keep on moving forward / getting better.
I also noticed after putting down glue that I couldn’t see my center reference line for a curve section of roadbed. I wonder if there’s some good way to help that. Maybe somebody can make a clear glue that does the same stuff.
Great video again Charlie, I have a question.. Can’t seem to find help on the net for.. I want to use electrofrog points for DCC modified to a point (no pun) without using point motors.. are there any modifications you could recommend me?
Chadwick Model Railway I’m thinking a bridge rectifier ,, that will switch the polarity.. guess I’m just worried about using point motors. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply to me Charlie.
Hi Charlie, thanks for posting another interesting video. Can I be a little cheeky and ask if you have a timeline as to when your first trains will be running on your layout. I`m enjoying what you are doing, so to have trains running will be great to watch. Cheers Greg.
Charlie, another great video!. I did spot something that created a question for me. In your track planning you have a curve going across the four tracks representing the bridge. Is the bridge curved? I thought it was straight.
Hi Charlie, Trial and error eh!! It will look great when you’ve finished. Cheers Andrew Ps. I bought some pre owned PECO points but some have the springs missing I’ve looked around for replacement springs any idea where to find them??? 🏴🏴🏴
Hi Andrew, I called Peco on their land line and spoke with the customer support team. Very helpful for supply of spare springs but they did (not unreasonably) suggest I might invest in some new turnouts after 40years of faultless service! A Great Company with a fine tradition being upheld so professionally. 🚂🚂
Has anyone tried the WS bed and glue directly onto cork? I have an inclination to cover the entire of the baseboard (9mm ply) with cork and build up from there with WS bed for the tracks...very noise sensitive household. Thanks.
Hello Charlie. All great ideas, but... when (shortly I hope) I build my layout, I hope not to rip it up and start again - silly me? but couldn't bear it at my age!!!
hopefuly not a doubled reply, but i could sugest puting a strip of plastic under the outer rail to raise it, however it might jsut sink into the foam still
I wondered when prying up the track if it would throw it off gauge. Lots of rework so it will be interesting to see the final result. Did I say "final"?🤔
Me you Charlie, I think my light bulbs have expired. I struggle with electrics. Trail and error. I do it and have to undo it and eventually get there. That glue does grab well.
@@ChadwickModelRailway both the caution and limit values are configurable for curves, you could have a limit (red) of 2nd radius and a warning (yellow) on 3rd radius. Anyrail would not allow the mistake you have in the top right corner of your diagram, that is way too tight! and the tracks are too close together for that radius! You can only run 50mm offsets (peco streamline) if you stay above 32 inch radius, when you drop down to 2nd radius you'll need the full 67mm centres that hornby trackset is designed for.. Anyrail was also free for 50 parts also when I got it a few years back..
With Any rail one can "stick" the track, so it won't move. Leave only the end pieces, remove all tracks in between and build another 50 pieces of track. Copy, cut & paste.
Hi Charlie. Great progress! Was that background music from Ghost Hunters? Have to say I felt really unsettled all through this video as if something was about to jump out... Looking forward to future developments. All the best, Nick
Interesting video Charlie, however I wonder if that glue is nothing more than rapid setting PVA, which can be purchased far cheaper than the extortionate price Woodland Scenics charge. Looking forward to next weeks video when we will see the finished result, all ballasted and landscaped :)
Hello Charlie, Glad to see you are modifying the orientation of the station. I used a track layout programme called SCARM from which I printed a full-size plot to transfer to the base board. One thing that puzzled me with your proposed layout was the high level track which crosses the main lines on a curve. How do you envisage a girder bridge being used in this location? Keep up the good work making these videos.
Hi Charlie, I used Anyrail found it very easy to use, the only thing that I have found is that it doesn't have all the latest peco tracks. otherwise it's worth the money. I have just finished planning my new layout with it.
It looks like you planned a "legal" in-out from the Branch Line, but neglected an exit route from the possible Parcels Line! Though you could put the Parcels line between the branch and the station.
Does that foam underlay meet up with your cork on neighbouring board as you said it was thicker,or are you going to replace all the existing cork witH the foam? I do enjoy watching your videos,very informative cheers
I have used RailModeller Pro for the last 3 years to design and modify my layout and find it really good. On the curves you can probably best plan them by adjusting the radius and setting the angle on flex-track. As a Mac user I think it is the best option.
Liking the idea of using this method Charlie. I am really looking forward to seeing how you get along with this & may well use it too. Any thoughts of the future of You Tube & FTC Coppa legislation? I'm one who would be devastated if this was to be pushed off the air by these "people" Keep up your brilliant layout & your great videos. All the best. Iain
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video Charlie. Change is good , looking forward to the progress.. Thanks .. Jim
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jim.
Loved the video. Its nice to have a down to earth Commentary that's easy to follow doesn't bore you and helps a layman have a go. Thanks Charlie
Thanks mate, you’re too kind.
Awww I wanted to see you do the rest of the yard. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Vince
Because I had clicked on the 'Bell,' I WAS informed when this video hit the airwaves. Thank you for posting this. I enjoyed listening to to your planning ideas,
Thanks Donald, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Charlie, - up front I must admit I am not a railway modeler and I have no idea how I came across your channel many moons ago. But I am so glad I did. I really enjoy your honest,, simple. enthusiastic, comedic approach - its so lovely. I feel I am living your new layout with you and I enjoy every video you post. Please keep it up. Really lovely heart warming stuff. Thank you
Thanks CM, it’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Thank you Charlie, You have inspired me to get cracking again. I had a layout 2 years ago, but made the novice mistake - too much track. So, now I am starting again. Thanks again for your videos, Full of great info. Chris
Chris, it’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Thank you for taking the time to make your videos.
I use track screws for my 00 gauge layout not to much money off eBay.
A good tip Lewis.
Hi Charlie, I use AnyRail. I find it very easy to use and the way the individual track pieces snap together makes it very easy to rapidly put together a plan. Also by using layers you can experiment with different plans for areas making the ones that you don't want to see invisible. Thanks for some great videos.
Thanks Allan, useful advice.
I have used Foam track bed on wood in the past & it was fine. However I now build on a 40mm thick high density foam board. My layout is long & narrow ( 6500 x 1000) which is great not only from the sound point of view, but allows for “carving out” scenic areas such as steam beds etc. Thanks for the idea of a Apple Based track design package. I will give it a try. 👍👍😎
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it David.
Looking good Charlie, thanks for the information about the foam road bed, i am looking into that also. Glad to see you liked it. Thanks for sharing. Ken
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ken
Looking good Charlie. Love the modular boards, makes working on them a doddle.
So pleased that you enjoyed it
Glad ur back Charlie.... missed ur videos mate!
You’re too kind EE.
Thanks as ever for the update
Dave
You’re welcome Dave
Most entertaining and informative Charlie. Many thanks for sharing. Now sat here waiting for the next video😊.Cheers, Bob
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob.
Hi so glad I came home from school for lunch amazing video keep it up
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it PKK
With the foam once you ballast the sound will return, this is due to the PVC setting the rock ballast hard, have tries cork and foam and happens with both.
Great video again mate Best regards Andrew
I don’t intend to use PVA. Instead a rubberised glue that should stop the sound transmission.
@@ChadwickModelRailway HI Charlie, hopefully it all works out, I have never tried a rubber based glue, thank you again Andrew
Nice job Charlie, look forward to seeing the progress 👍
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Mick.
Hi Charlie another very interesting video.I had a spot where my upper level track crossed over a tunnel and was supported by a narrow strip of hard board.Horrific sound transfer but solved the problem by using a strip of the woodland scenic foam board.Better sound reduction than cork for my money.cheers waiting for more!
Thanks Mark, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Hi Charlie another great video mate the layout is coming along great it will be good to see trains run on the layout clive
Thanks Clive, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Hi Charlie, I subscribed about a month ago to your channel. My intention is to build a layout in my loft, which I’m still clearing out and boarding. I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos and I’ve learnt a lot, including how to make mistakes lol. Thanks again Barry
I’m so pleased to have you onboard Barry.
Subscribed, after having been bingewatching your channels' videos & those of 'The Mc Kinley Railway'... / Greetings from Germany - & all my excuses for any mistakes concerning my English.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Frank
Another good educational tutorial well done Charlie
I’m so pleased that you found it useful John
Hi Charlie, love your films, yes i keep changing my track as well problem with renting. I use the scarm programme has limits but can play around with it better. This time i printed out the track 1:1 and much easier but had a few hiccups. All working so far. But great work you do Charlie thanks.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Rodney.
Enjoyable video as always Charlie. Watched it on train as I'm on way to Warley. Might see you there tomorrow!
Do say hello if you spot me.
Top episode always enjoy your episodes keep them up good job mate well done can't wait to see it all done you given me same top ideas for my new layout
Thanks Rowan, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Another great video Charlie, roll on a week or so to see the next update, can't wait to see it all finished ☺
If only JM.
Have to say Charlie, going through similar uplifting my SMP track to incorporate proper droppers (don't ask) and install Cobalts with some track plan fine tuning, you have my empathies. Mine was just Peco pinned down (with interference fit pins) so all your uplift of glued track is commendable. Its like re-engineering the whole thing properly I find...and taking the lead from the real thing instills some patience. Cheers
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Charlie, I'm so happy you are moving forward with the layout. I like the idea of the black foam for the track bed. I used the cork on my layout, but I think I will try the foam. I'm laying another track on the lower level of my HO layout. I eagerly wait for your next video to see your progress. I think it will look great!
Thanks Crystal, I’m so pleased to have you onboard.
Charlie - so glad to have you back! Good to see you working with the foam roadbed; I much prefer foam to cork, also. Thanks for the referral to Railmodeler; I hadn't tried it yet. I'll let you know how that goes!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Pat.
I've been using Woodland Scenics foam trackbed in N scale. The "split" mark on the N scale version isn't central, and because putting the glue down does completely obscure any track centres I want to line up to (doh!!) I've been taking to drawing in the *edges* of where the trackbed would be. What I haven't figured out is how to accurately lay the track on top, given the now complete lack of marks...
An interesting point Chris.
Charlie; Thank you so very much for all your videos and hard work. Im currently working on a very tricky bit at my club layout and you have solved a number of my questions and "how to's". Please forgive me if you have spoken before as to where you obtained the incline roadbed (shaped like a number of connected "z"s) fr your flyover. I happen to be in the direct market for *just* such a piece of incline roadbed as that. Thank you heartily in advance! Cheers!Scott Hill, Augusta, KS, USA
Hi Scott, the polystyrene inclines are made by woodland scenics.
Hi Charlie - I used AnyRail which too is limited to 50 item download, but it is per file so I split may design into 3 had a file for each which did not need more than 50 items. Each section had an overlap with the other and it worked ok , when I came to lay the track there we only a few adjustments required. You can also print out a list of track you will need and also print the plan out in 1-1 scale which I found useful when it came to seeing what room I had for scenic , buildings etc and also that I didn't have points over joints in baseboards. I have done a couple of videos on it. Cheers Kev
Thanks Kev, I have checked out your videos, many thanks.
Hi Charlie. Just bumped into you at NEC. Made my day. 👍👍
The pleasure was all mine SJ.
Great video as ever. I always end up watching you current vid and then some old ones. You often raise the Pins Vs Glue question. Have you ever tried track screws? Can get diff lengths and can be applied to ensure u don't bend the sleepers downwards. Really good for lifting back up the track where not meeting correctly and can shift by milemeters to correct and screw back down. You prob already have! Looking forward to the next video. Regards
No jimmy I haven’t. But I try to avoid any metal due to sound transmission.
Having extended my layout to include a German theme, I opted for Fleischmann Profi track which is well engineered and using their track screws, it is incredibly secure and isolated. Typical German engineering...
@@paredding sounds great. When I finally have a proper layout I will have 00 on main layout and possibly HO above that to mimic an Alpine theme in the mountains. I love Fleischmann. Currently creating an Alpine theme to go round the Xmas tree!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I dont have a layout as such, just 2 mini test ones. I used underlay for laminate flooring on one and polystyrene sheeting backed with brown paper on the other (creating a snow look); using the screws, and both v quiet. I am no modeller though, I just put components together!!!
@@jimmydotcom6078 Similar here - my original UK outline layout was ~5m x2m with the aforementioned SMP track with code 75 Peco slips and double slips which is wht I am relaying and wiring up now. Then I added the same size for the DE section as a result of living in Munich for the past 7 years. I chose FL Profi for that as a result of watching the Hovermotion videos on YT and wanting a quicker more reliable tracklaying experience. All the points are integral surface mounted and driven by ESU Switchpilots. DCC Concepts Cobalts and AD-8FX decoders for the UK side. Its basically three long baseboards with access aisles in between. I have also planned a small Bavarian village with a log mill, the track is HOe and will run down to a Vollmer & Faller sawmill and pallet factory, over 2 large viaduct bridges. Its all a bit mad but the layout I promised myself 25 years ago...
Hi Charlie, great video as always. I use WS trackbed and Foam Tack and find them both very good. Personally though I use much less of the foam tack, just a thin smear on the baseboard. If the trackbed is weighted down for a short period afterwards it sticks fine. The big advantage then is if you do need to lift it (trust me I had to a couple of times in some areas!), it comes up quite easily without damaging the foam, put too much adhesive down and it just rips apart (again from experience) when you try and lift it. I also use the foam tack to stick the trackwork to the trackbed but again using only a thin smear and then weighting.
I also use AnyRail with a licence and am very happy with it, as others have mentioned you can set your own limits, smooth slopes to set a required grade and there is a basic 3d viewer
Cheers Steve
Great advice Steve, many thanks.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I've also exported 3D anyrail trackplans and then Imported them into Sketchup (then rescaled) to model buildings around them. Buildings are rough currently, thus...
mobile.twitter.com/KnucklesSCC/status/1185596257609375745
Hi again. I was going to say about the same as the above. I use a very light coating of the Foam Tack (cheep- I am) but it works fine. I don't glue any of the points as I glue the ends of the tracks joining to them and that keeps them tight. For weight I use cans of food for the weights. If my wife wants a particular soup and can not find it, she goes to the train room. For the weight on the track I use the cans laying down and it works just fine. The cans lay in the tracks and won't roll off. Then between each can I use "T" pins to hold the track in place until the glue dries. Works for me!!!!!
Well, I will keep my fingers crossed that this is the start to the grand finale of your layout to come. Great work and fun to watch, as always. :D Cheers
Thanks Anthony, fingers crossed!
Nice to meet you at the NEC today
And you Emma
An item that might have made the radius bits easier is an item I started using ages ago in model shipbuilding--T pins. Also known as "dress maker's pins" these are needle-like pins with the top bent over into a "T" shape (about 12-15mm wide). This makes them easy to poke into softer surfaces, and can be rapped with a light mallet into less-soft surfaces.
You could have set a line of the pins at say, 10-15cm apart down the lined out centerline, and applied glue around them. Then, the foam could have been laid like a batten against them. Perhaps only setting the one side of the curve, then pulling pins and using the set side as the guide for the other.
Maybe.
Perhaps.
It's my 2¢ (which is only 78% of 2d)
A useful thought which I think is the same product as Woodland Scenics pins. They still won’t touch chipboard though.
Enjoyable and informative Charlie as always, the cant on the rails really will add something to it, will almost have a Farnborough station feel if you carry it on through the curves in the station. Looking forward to the next installment 👌 all the best matt
Thanks Matt, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I've started using laminate floor sound deadening foam underlay which comes in packs of 10 large sheets. It seem to work well and I've even layered it on my N gauge layout to create an incline.
Sounds like it will be a lot cheaper than Woodland Scenics too?
@@dolvaran I'd say at around £20 a pack for almost 10 square metres. I still have 6 or more unused sheets.
A vey interesting option J.
I will look forward to the next video. I am interested in the reasons for using the foam in place of cork. I was going to lay a diorama on cork and now you are making me think otherwise. Thanks for another informative video.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Don.
Lots of good ideas as ever Charlie, Thank you. Kev
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Kev
Hi Charlie nearly caught me out on a Friday afternoon ,another great video
Thanks Dave, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Great video charlie, nice to see your not afraid to rip up the track if your unhappy with it.
I'm not so sure on the woodland scenic trackbed but thats me, I've yet to advance to using cork under my track yet.
Hopefully see you at Warley if your there.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Alex.
Nice work Charlie!
Thanks mate.
Excellent video very informative as usual great improvements to the layout and I’m going to look into that computer program 👍🏻👍🏻😊
Thanks Alan, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Thanks Charlie, another informative video.
Thanks Paul.
any rail will also do track height, meaning if you want to do a slope up and over it can demonstrate this for you when you switch to 3d preview mode.
You can also set a slope to a percentage incline so you can tell if your slope is too steep.
Rule of thumb: 4mm down every 200mm along is a 1 in 50 gradient
Great video as always, keep going!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Mr D.
I cannot believe how accurate this program is to use. When printed 1:1, with blank pages suppressed, it creates a fantastic template for track laying and reminds you of any ‘unique’ pieces you need to cut and fit. The price of this software for the full version represents excellent value IMO. T
I love anyrail you can set limits and a lot of other useful things in the full program
I’m convinced that you’re right mate.
Anyrail every day. A very good application. You can actually set your parameters so that anything less than 3rd or even 4th radii highlights in red.
I too believe that it has the edge.
Have you checked the gradient of the green track? I think it's going to be very steep to clear the orange lines on the left. There are some nasty kinks in both the main through lines top right. I'm sure they could be smoothed out.
Have you worked out how the parcels siding will be operated? Because you've got facing access, to prevent the loco from becoming trapped you need to run round somewhere. You could use the long orange loop to do that but that would tie up the loop for a while and involve a lot of wrong-road running. Then the reverse procedure for departing parcels? I notice there are no crossovers between inner and outer (Up and Down) lines shown so there's no way for a train to change direction on scene, including parcels trains.
Hi Phil, yes the gradient using 3% seems okay.
Please don’t take the track plan too seriously, I found it quite difficult to draw.
Only when I lay out the track can I be sure of workable curves.
Regards Charlie
Sorry. I have to correct myself: There is a facing crossover in the branch line junction but using it to change direction would not be pretty!
Charlie, You might find it's easyer to glue 1/2 the foam track bed snug to the predrawn line then glue the other 1/2 down. How long have you made lead in to the " canted " rail, 18''? On the prototype the outter track is canted higher than the inner track. Cheers, Chris Perry.
A good tip AP, many thanks.
hi charlie don't use pva to glue your ballast down you will defeat the object of using foam, use a latex type glue magei, you can get screw fix i mixed it 40/60 water /glue doesn't set like concrete, will stop most of the sound, also are you going to cut a champer in the foam`? great video........tony
I’ve bought a rubberised glue already thanks. For the super-elevation, I intend to build up from the foam trackbed by 1.5mm.
Regards Charlie
Great work mate.
Thanks mate.
Great video!
Sorry I watched it so late this time. I was on a trip up in New England.
Don’t be sorry, I’m so grateful Andrew.
Hi Charlie - with Railmodeller Express you can always open a new "layout" and create another plan for the other sections (again with the 50 item limit). I use the Pro version a lot, and you can see the results of that with the latest video on my channel, which shows a whole "garage" full of plans I drew showing an old branch line in Northumberland :)
Thanks Stephen, I’ll take a look.
Hi Charlie, best do your homework on foam underlay as some products break down and disintegrate over time whereas cork does not. Apart from that, great video as always. Cheers Baz :)
Hi Baz, I believe that it’s only the soft foam like the Hornby underlay, that has the limited 10 year life. It’s great to have you onboard, regards Charlie
with regard to the track plan. If you move the two left hand curved turnouts down the straight sections you will increase the size of the curves, avoiding that unsightly kink in the curves. It should improve your running as well.
I’ll take a look tomorrow Rich.
Can you explain the "chock blocks" that you connect the boards together with?
I’ll show them at the start of the next video Stephen.
Charlie, I have noticed a few times that you encounter issues with having a mac rather than windows based pc. I would suggest you look into bootcamp, allowing you to install windows on your mac. You can use windows inactivated and all you will have is a small watermark in the corner of the screen or use an old pc serial number to activate fully.
No Dave, I have to get off my lazy backside and fix the PC.
another fine video once again solved my problem on risers. did I hear you say that you use joiners to link code 100 to code 75 if so please where can you get them thank you keith leadbitter
Peco does (or did) make small brown fishplates which allow connection.
Hi Charlie, I use Anyrail as my layout is large (17x13) in OO but Anyrail will plan in any gauge any track system including Lego! It also has an expanding selection of signals,platforms and buildings. It also tells you if the flexitrack has been "stretched'" to far.
Regards
Chris
Hi Chris, I too believe that it’s the better product.
@@ChadwickModelRailway - Hi Charlie, been using a full licenced version of Anyrail for many years, can't recommend it enough, worth the money IMO. If you go to my YT Community page on my channel you can see the trackplans on it, painted in with features. Super easy to do and it won't be the 1st time I've built layouts with it. Can testify to its accuracy, I'm not sponsored to say this BTW! Just like the program. All the best,
Gavin.
Thanks Gavin, sound advice.
hey charlie, I would have put the glue on the foam, allowing for the line on the board to remain visible
Yes it's obvious afterwads AJ
You have gone rather better then farther 👍 bented station, acoustic absorption and superelevation on the redone tracks.
About the railcar ment to go from Chadwick Central to Chadwick Parkway and back (which had it´s own switches) - is it now going Chadwick Central -> Chadwick Parkway (downstairs) -> through the crossings and back into branch line -> Chadwick Parkway (upstairs) -> Chadwick "Industrial Park" (maybe elevated over the *new* Chadwick TMD) -> and behind stations - just a thought.
Next to the hill scene, leaning on the hill, would be a nice overlooking place for a signal box and some trainspotters (named after some of your patreons) - edit have overseen the already existing scene you layed aside away for working.
Keep on moving forward / getting better.
Interesting points LUS. I do like the naming of the train spotters too.
Hi Charlie, any idea when super elevation was introduced in the UK? Looking to build a 50/60s era steam/diesel layout.
You need to turn the clock back over 100 year. Superelevation, has been around for donkeys. Regards Charlie
I also noticed after putting down glue that I couldn’t see my center reference line for a curve section of roadbed. I wonder if there’s some good way to help that. Maybe somebody can make a clear glue that does the same stuff.
The trouble us railway models have to face! We get there in the end, regards Charlie
Please could you do a video on wiring up a double slip for tortoise point motors, thanks.
Is that for insulfrog or electrofrog?
@@ChadwickModelRailway elctrofrog please, appreciate it
Great video again Charlie, I have a question.. Can’t seem to find help on the net for.. I want to use electrofrog points for DCC modified to a point (no pun) without using point motors.. are there any modifications you could recommend me?
But how do you intend to change the points?
Chadwick Model Railway , thank you for your reply. Hands on finger switching if that’s possible, new to DCC sorry if it seems an amateur question.
I’m sorry James but I don’t think that it can be done. There must be some kind of device attached which can change the polarity of the frog.
Chadwick Model Railway I’m thinking a bridge rectifier ,, that will switch the polarity.. guess I’m just worried about using point motors. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply to me Charlie.
g'day Charlie a little suggestion ,spray some windex over the track to be lifted, comes away very easily
But what’s Windex, is that like Windowlene.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Windex is window or glass cleaner, it is blue coloured and debonds PVA or wood glue, softens it so it comes up easier
Thanks David.
Hey backdrop Charlie, it appears to me your bridge is straight but the track (in green) going over it is curved. By the way love your work.
Trust me mate it’s straight.
Sorry I had the wrong end of the stick.
Yes it should be straight.
Hello, great videos, was wondering where you source your digitrax compoents living in the UK, any help much appreciated
Hi HJ, I usually use Digitrains.
@@ChadwickModelRailway wow that was a really quick replay thank you very much. Just starting in the hobby and love your videos 😊
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm looking for a starter set but all out of stock; any pointers?
Speak with Jeremy of Digitrains, i
He gives sound advice.
@@ChadwickModelRailway do you have contact info for this Jeremy? Dm me if you have
I've lost count of how many times I've re-laid my track, glad I'm not the only one ;)
I’m so pleased that I’m not alone.
Hi Charlie, thanks for posting another interesting video. Can I be a little cheeky and ask if you have a timeline as to when your first trains will be running on your layout. I`m enjoying what you are doing, so to have trains running will be great to watch. Cheers Greg.
Hi Greg, thanks for your continued support. January is my completion target due to work commitments.
Oh, and I have been telling others about your channel!
Thanks Crystal, you’re too kind.
Check out the SCARM track planning program. It's impressive.
I’ll take a look Paul.
Charlie, another great video!. I did spot something that created a question for me. In your track planning you have a curve going across the four tracks representing the bridge. Is the bridge curved? I thought it was straight.
You’re right, my mistake.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Perhaps you can add in a curved, but shorter viaduct?
Hi Charlie,
Trial and error eh!! It will look great when you’ve finished.
Cheers
Andrew
Ps. I bought some pre owned PECO points but some have the springs missing I’ve looked around for replacement springs any idea where to find them???
🏴🏴🏴
I’m pretty sure that Peco do sell them in small packs.
Hi Andrew, I called Peco on their land line and spoke with the customer support team.
Very helpful for supply of spare springs but they did (not unreasonably) suggest I might invest in some new turnouts after 40years of faultless service! A Great Company with a fine tradition being upheld so professionally. 🚂🚂
Has anyone tried the WS bed and glue directly onto cork? I have an inclination to cover the entire of the baseboard (9mm ply) with cork and build up from there with WS bed for the tracks...very noise sensitive household. Thanks.
Sounds like a good plan to me DD.
Hello Charlie. All great ideas, but... when (shortly I hope) I build my layout, I hope not to rip it up and start again - silly me? but couldn't bear it at my age!!!
I’m so pleased that you enjoy my mistakes NBA
Yay update.
Thanks Eric
For my first layout, settrack or flexitrack ? What do you recommend ?
Always Flexitrack. You will learn so much more regarding track laying.
Also you can dictate the curve profile rather than the manufacturer.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ok, tnx ! Looking forward to learning all these things.
hopefuly not a doubled reply, but i could sugest puting a strip of plastic under the outer rail to raise it, however it might jsut sink into the foam still
That’s exactly my intention Skog
I wondered when prying up the track if it would throw it off gauge. Lots of rework so it will be interesting to see the final result. Did I say "final"?🤔
An interesting point G47
Me you Charlie, I think my light bulbs have expired. I struggle with electrics. Trail and error. I do it and have to undo it and eventually get there. That glue does grab well.
I’m so pleased that you found it useful Nige
Using Any rail you can put in the limits, Minimum radius, Etc Etc
Thanks Sam
@@ChadwickModelRailway both the caution and limit values are configurable for curves, you could have a limit (red) of 2nd radius and a warning (yellow) on 3rd radius.
Anyrail would not allow the mistake you have in the top right corner of your diagram, that is way too tight! and the tracks are too close together for that radius! You can only run 50mm offsets (peco streamline) if you stay above 32 inch radius, when you drop down to 2nd radius you'll need the full 67mm centres that hornby trackset is designed for..
Anyrail was also free for 50 parts also when I got it a few years back..
Parax77 , best I buy it then.
Hi Charlie great video as always, what are your plans for the channel with the changes to RUclips
I’m just watching with interest at the moment. I’m sure that it will be fine.
With Any rail one can "stick" the track, so it won't move. Leave only the end pieces, remove all tracks in between and build another 50 pieces of track. Copy, cut & paste.
Good tip Rob.
Hi Charlie. Great progress! Was that background music from Ghost Hunters? Have to say I felt really unsettled all through this video as if something was about to jump out... Looking forward to future developments. All the best, Nick
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Nick
Interesting video Charlie, however I wonder if that glue is nothing more than rapid setting PVA, which can be purchased far cheaper than the extortionate price Woodland Scenics charge. Looking forward to next weeks video when we will see the finished result, all ballasted and landscaped :)
No the glue drys in a soft rubbery texture.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Rebranded Copydex then :-)
Morning Charlie. What is your opinion/thoughts on the new COPPA laws. Some posters are getting very worried.
It’s too early to judge. Don’t lose any sleep yet.
did you read the dictions on the glue?
No but I will now, have I missed something?
@@ChadwickModelRailway it tell you to let the two pieces with the glue on them set till their just tacky then lay together
Thanks James, serves me right.
Hello Charlie,
Glad to see you are modifying the orientation of the station. I used a track layout programme called SCARM from which I printed a full-size plot to transfer to the base board. One thing that puzzled me with your proposed layout was the high level track which crosses the main lines on a curve. How do you envisage a girder bridge being used in this location?
Keep up the good work making these videos.
My mistake Frank, the bridge will be straight.
Hi Charlie, I used Anyrail found it very easy to use, the only thing that I have found is that it doesn't have all the latest peco tracks. otherwise it's worth the money.
I have just finished planning my new layout with it.
Thanks for the advice Ken.
MATE JUST A TIP MAKE SURE U GLUE THE OUT SIDE EDGES OF YOUR BLACK SUPPORT DOWN IF NOT IN HOT WEATHER THEY WILL LIFT
Are you refering to the foam track-bed?
It looks like you planned a "legal" in-out from the Branch Line, but neglected an exit route from the possible Parcels Line! Though you could put the Parcels line between the branch and the station.
An interesting point Neil.
Does that foam underlay meet up with your cork on neighbouring board as you said it was thicker,or are you going to replace all the existing cork witH the foam?
I do enjoy watching your videos,very informative cheers
It will align okay but we’ll see if I choose to remove the foam.
AnyRail is the best Layout Diagram software with free uploads of upgrades life of the product.
I think that you’re right PR.
Hello, it is typhoon trains from warley!
Got it subbed. Regards Charlie
Thank you, it was nice meeting you!
I have used RailModeller Pro for the last 3 years to design and modify my layout and find it really good. On the curves you can probably best plan them by adjusting the radius and setting the angle on flex-track. As a Mac user I think it is the best option.
Thanks Andrew, I just need more practice.
Liking the idea of using this method Charlie. I am really looking forward to seeing how you get along with this & may well use it too. Any thoughts of the future of You Tube & FTC Coppa legislation? I'm one who would be devastated if this was to be pushed off the air by these "people" Keep up your brilliant layout & your great videos. All the best. Iain
This channel doesn't direct itself at children, nor does it contain content aimed at children. Charlie shouldn't have any issues therefore.
@@dolvaran Fair comment J, thank you
The COPPA regulations need to be enforced for the protection of youngsters. However, I I do belive that channels such as mine should be safe.