I work Home Depot electrical sure I’ve learned a lot since being there but at the end of the day I sell parts not the service so any DIY folks that come in asking for advice I’m sending them here haha
One of the best comments that I have had. I really appreciate you watching and commenting and sending all of your people over to me. Have a great day ☺
Simplest advice is; ALL metal parts of an electrical installation must be grounded(bonded),period.Not only junction points,but all utilities and appliance frames.Then,not to say they are incompatible,but NM residential cable installations do not waste money on steel boxes.Plastic for NM(Romex) cable and steel for TW conduit,which by code,serves as the circuit ground.With conduit,devices need only be bonded to the box.
Nice video. For all the more curious folks out there the box in this video doesn't need to be bonded to the box because he is using BX wire(metal sheathing is the ground), I am of course assuming it goes to the panel or another 4x4 that is bonded. I also might clear up that your ground screw does not need to be a green machine screw, the code book states the screw only needs to be green for the devices(switch, outlet etc..) the bonding wire needs to be green or green w yellow stripe but only if insulated. Bare wire is fine for this application. Most of use just buy pre made 12 gauge pigtails that have a green screw but if you can't find any you have an alternative. Some but not all jurisdictions allow self grounding receptacles instead of the grounding pigtails.
Just used a side ground clip from home depot to ground an existing junction box. The box was just for romex wire connections. It had grounds running through it but the box itself was not grounded. This was a hexagon box mounted flush at the back to a 2x4. It didnt have the raised ground at the back like some newer boxes. I was considering drilling a hole in the box side for a ground. This clip was far easier and worked perfectly. I hooked the front cut wire slightly over the clip and ran the wire from the back of the clip to a wire nut in the box. The box cover fit over the clip easily.
Hey - just wanted to thank you for this video. Always been too uneasy with electrical - but after watching this, decided to update a electrical box in the basement following your video. Last owner wired the basement in the 80s - no ground wires or screw, metal boxes. I'm gonna check out your other vids too now. Thanks.
I installed a ceiling fan last night and this video was super helpful. I ended up grounding to my electrical box and used this pigtail method. Thank you!
Thank you. I found that to be very helpful. My house was originally run w/ ground wires (14/2 I believe) coming up to the metal gang boxes but they were simply grounded out tot he box, and only 2 prong receptacles were installed. I would like to bring these up to code and I felt this video was helpful in explaining the best way to ground/bond them.
After watching this, I opened up a metal receptacle box in my basement that I needed to work on. The ground wire was wrapped around the ground screw and the two ground wires were merely twisted together with no wire nut. This was done by a professional electrician! Re-did the way you showed here (along with your ground nut video). Thanks!
Awesome glad that my video helped you. Alot of guys especially older ones in my experiences do it like that. Is it right no, but unfortunately they do it like that for so long that they believe it's right.
Thank you for helping out a fellow RUclips, currently installing some 12/2 mc to add outlets for lighting our new shop and indoor riding arena, have a pretty good understanding but the here and there tips that I’m picking up from you are going to make a big difference. Thank you!
Just subscribed. Nicely done. Omg - Its about time someone illustrates and provides a sample on “how to,” especially the CORRECT way. Tired of hearing different people say “you’ll be fine” your whole house is grounded. “You don’t need a ground.” Smh. Great job. Thank you for sharing.
You are so good!!! Clear explanations, good examples and providing the names of the parts and the tools in your information. I will watch more of your videos. I learned a lot.
Liked and Subscribed. Besides the quick and simple explanation that I was looking for on grounding/bonding a metal box, I liked the way you created a J-Hook. It takes practice to get it right the first time (for me, at least 🤷🏻♂️😂) even when stripping the right amount of insulation. Always felt the strip gauge on the back of a receptacle was a bit too small going with 3/4 of an inch to be on the safe side. 🤔🤷🏻♂️👍🏼⚡️🔌💡
I appreciate your feedback and thank you for your subscription. Welcome to the diy/ mountaineeroutdoors family. I am super appreciative. Have a great day ☺️
Cool, thanks for the help brother.. the bending the hook part helped me a ton!! That stupid 12/3 ground popped off on a cheap light socket and this little trick did the 'trick
Question: Make a video where you explain when you HAVE to use a ground bushing connector when coming into a box. I normally only see them in main panels and sub panels. But I know there is a code that explains that are required when using either eccentric or concentric holes.
I say use whatever screws you want, however, the contention is that drywall screws with the steel boxes create oxidation reaction and the screws rust. I use sheet metal screws. If code calls for a specific screw and an inspector checks, he can cite that as an impropriety.
Very nice video. I found out just today that the electrician that wired this house back in 1994 didn't bond the box for my electric cooktop and it is a box just like the one in your video (no raised dimple for the ground screw). It is mounted to the back panel of the cabinet. I think if I just try to screw the ground screw in, it will likely strip the box like you mentioned. But wouldn't running a drywall screw through the hole also screw up the threads for the ground screw? I was thinking of marking the hole, then taking the box off and drilling out the back of the cabinet where the ground screw would go.
Great video! I have a square bit (robertson #2) screw driver for these green ground screws. It holds on the tiny screws without falling. I also have a tiny robertson #1 to drive set screws for devices. As for the direction of the hook. I forget sometimes, but it's the reflected version of the question mark. So "no question" is what I tell myself to remind of the orientation.
I like the video. I agree with everything except in certain situations when you have surface mounted boxes and you are using your raceway as the egc then no bonding jumper is required and the yoke contacting the box or yoke and cover contacting the box acts as the bonding jumper per NEC 250.146. I may be wrong but I see this type of installation often.
I don't think using conduit is considered a egc anymore. As far as the yoke you have to take off the Insulator tab behind the screw or make sure you are using a self grounding device
@@MountaineerOutdoors It is still acceptable to use the raceway as an egc per NEC 250.118. Although it is uncommon for electricians to do so as it is not well known. But I have seen it which prompted me to figure out why someone would not run a separate egc.
Yep your correct I looked it up. I was always taught that that was the old way. I wouldn't want to depend on that being my ground for sure. I really appreciate you teaching me something and giving me the code number.
I’m glad I was able to give some insight into proper grounding. Although you are right about not relying on the raceway as your egc. I wouldn’t want to trust it either.
Great video. Thanks for that. I have a cable that is going through metal ceiling fan box. The cable is not spliced at the box as yet it is just a pass through (will splice when we install the fan). When I use the non contact tester, it shows that metal box is hot. How do i ground this as of now? or is it not required? pls let me know
Hi i am installing a outdoor weather box running conduit It is a 60’s built no ground wire from my power source. I will have a GFI receptacle wired properly to protect remaining receptacles your thoughts on the ground wire. Thanks for your videos I have learned how to bend conduit from them 👍
My opinion is this. Can you drive a ground rod to your garage and add that ground wire to your garage panel? Then you can replace the wire from the your panel in the garage to your receptacles and all will have a ground. You adding a gfci will satisfy the code but it is not creating a ground.
Mountaineer Outdoors thank you for the reply much appreciated. This wiring is from an existing 2 wire feed to the porch area were I am going from the two wire feed to a metallic box than emt and boxes. I anticipated you would recommend a ground added. So the home panel is very inaccessible as far as the wiring distance to the outdoors. I visioned adding a ground rod than run the ground to the weather receptacle box . Your thoughts. Thank you for all you do !!!!
So do you have a panel in the garage??? if you dont and your planning on adding a ground rod, I would run it to a grounding bridge block which you can google to find exactly what I am talking about. That way you can add more ground wires to items. Although it is not code to run a ground wire outside of a conduit or a romex to feed devices.
Thanks for the informative video. If your ground wire comes into the box as a bare copper wire, is it okay to use that for bonding the box instead of green plastic coated?
Hey and thanks for the video, super helfpul! Question: what is the last piece of ground wire you attached to it for? Is it to simulate if you had a receptacle or branching of to another box?
You don't need to twist your wires together if you use the proper wire nut(ie Ideal TWISTER wire nuts) and the Mc ground wire can be wrapped around the screw in the box if it is long enough. There are several right ways of doing that. Your way is right also. Drywall screws are usually more brittle and bush league for mounting boxes,IMO. Thanks, Russ, 28 years in the Electrical Trade.
Thanks for your helpful videos ! I live in an older apt that does not have a ground wire , would adding a ground wire to the metal box alone provide protection?
Do you mean adding a wire that's starts at the ground rod or steel to the box? Or do you mean just from the box to the Recep? If it's older I may be in bx which they use to use the bx outer jacket as the ground?
Great Video! I always do a mid strip in my ground wire, loop on the box ground screw and then use my excess for the switch or receptacle. Old timer taught me this, but i heard its against code. though im not sure why it would be, less connections / less resistance. How ever i do waste more wire doing this with MC cable because i pull two feet into box so ground is long enough. whats your opinion?
I believe that as long as it's not broken and in good condition send it. As far as I know most people do that and never been busted any inspector. Great question. Thanks for the comment and watching ☺
Thanks for the great video. I have a question now, if i have an outdoor receptacle that does not have a ground and I'm unable to run a ground to the electrical box that is not grounded can i just make my own ground near the location of the receptacle with a grounding rod?
@@MountaineerOutdoors thank you. I figured that was the case. Do you have any videos on how to ground the whole system? I really just need this one outdoor outlet to be grounded.
I am an industrial electrician, from hard learned lessons never use 3 piece welded boxes on exposed work they are to easily broken, use only one piece drawn boxes for exposed work.
My house has aluminum wiring and only has white and black wires. It has an open ground on one of the boxes. How can I ground that one? There’s no green wire on the wiring since it’s an older house.
Thank you for your video. I have a 1970s home with an electrical outlet that has AC cable running into it (hot/black is copper, neutral/white is copper but the armored cable has a thin aluminum ribbon that connects to the ground screw on the outlet. I want to add another electrical box in my shop and tie it into this outlet with the AC (the new outlet has a 14/2 Romex). When I bring the Romex copper ground into the original metal box, should I ground it into the metal box? Should I take the aluminum ground from the AC cable and screw it to the original box too in a separate spot? I do not want to tie an aluminum ground together with a copper one.
Question or you... if you ran 4 X 6 gauge THHN wires for a 240V outlet, how do you ground the box? It is or a single device and the 6 gauge cable is way too thick to ground on that little grounding screw. Thanks again for the great information..
What is the Article 250 verbiage regarding bonding by means of the MC outer layer sheath/connector, or conduit especially RMC? I worked industrial plant maintenance electrical for decades but did very little if any installations. I do however remember back in the days when a separate ground wire was not required when connected to metal raceway. Do you know when that rule changed and or the Article that addresses that topic/issue? Thank you.
I'll have to look. But in conduit you can absolutely use the conduit as a ground without any extra ground wire. I personally don't think that is a good idea but perfectly legal
Amazing video but how would u go about grounding with bx armored cable I understand it has its own bonding wire so how do we go about grounding an outlet or switch if the bx armored cable doesn’t have a copper ground
Wouldn’t the outlet box or switch box itself be bonded can I just add a green screw with wire for the ground since it’s bonded with the bx armored cable I don’t know if I’m making any sense but hope it clear
So what you are saying is partly right. Bonded switch to box yes grounded no. I'm not sure the exact code right off but it's not legal anymore. I will have to look at it when I get home this weekend and I will let you know what I find out. From my experience though it's not and even though I probably showing ground I wouldn't trust it too many variable..
@@MountaineerOutdoorsI would appreciate that so much I’m working on my basement all my wires are bx armored cable with bonding I want to add outlets when I test it all says correct wiring and when I test for proper ground reads 120 volts when I have the tester on black and white wire says the same when I put the tester on the black wire and the metal outlet box and would it be wise to splice and switch to romex
Thank you for the video. You earned a subscriber in me. Couple questions though. I will be doing this with splicing Romex cables. But I understand there’s no insulation for the ground. Would it be the same method? Also can I use WAGOs instead of wire nuts?
Welcome to the family. And yes same method and you can use wagos. I'm not the biggest fan of them but they are U. L. Listed. Thank you for your comment and watching ☺
thanks. Is there any reason why the ground wire can't simply first do a loop to the box'es green screw , and then go to the plug, all as one wire. Why make this setup with 3 wires.
Im in an old house from the 60s. Its 12 guage wire running through it but there is no ground. Can i just ground the receptical straight to the box or should i run a new wire with a ground from the fusebox
If it's conduit yes but you need to verify it's connected still. Over time alot of the pipe does come apart. Pipe is technically a ground if it's in tact
Instead of using a pig tail ground wire, can you use the source ground wire by stripping a small section of it, wrap it clockwise around the painted ground screw lol, crimp it close, secure it and connect it to the load ground?
Does it matter how old the metal box is for adding a ground wire to it and can I use any screw that fits or if it already has a screw even if it isn’t green
im new to all of this. im making a 30amp extension cord to run off my generator. im using 10G 30AMP extension cord as my wire. cutting the 3 head off it and making a 4 way box. i dont have any Grounding Pigtails. Could i use some of the Green wire out of the extension cord to make up a grounding pigtail ? Thanks
If you have splices from more than one circuit going through the same junction box, do all of the grounds have to be pigtailed to the box or just one of them?
Just bought a house and all metal electrical boxes are grounded via a ground wire and ground clip. The outlets are not grounded, but in using an outlet tester, it shows the outlet is wired properly. I need to install new outlets because the previous owner painted the outlets and you can see they are old. Do I need to get a ground wire to the outlet or is the ground wire that is connected to the clip to the box okay, since the tester shows the outlet is wired properly (both amber lights to the right are on and red light off on the tester).
Good question. So make sure you get self grounding receps. And/or you remove the plastic or fiber washer that hold on the screw to the receptacle so it makes metal to metal contact. Sounds like you have an older home? They use the bx or conduit as the grounding conductor which is totally fine.
Hear me out what do you do if it’s a double outlet and another 12/2 wire going to the next outlet ? And do you treat the bare ground the same as a coated?
If you're using a 4 gang box with 2 receptacles would you then pigtail the 4 grounds in one wire nut? (1 to ground the box, 1 from main box, 2 separate out to each respective outlet)? TIA
Yes you can wrap one of the grounds around the screw which will eliminate a separate wire from the box to the wire nut. And yes then you would run the two separate lines off that to your receps or switches. I hope that makes sense
So if a hot touched the metal box. Fault current would travel through that bonding wire through the receptacle back to your main panel? I see pictures of panels that have a bonding wire connected from the inside side of the panel to the door of the panel? So how does that keep the whole panel from being energized?
What if one of the wires is stranded, ifor instance, a mc whip for an A/C. Can one of the 3 wires twisted together be stranded or is a different wire nut or connector required?
Great video. Do I have to use a metal box and mc cable for my basement where there are no finished walls I can mount it to? Could I just build a wall segment and mount it flush to that so I can get away with using plastic?
The electrical box comes with more than one ground screw option capability. The threaded ports are for a threaded bolt. The other more ordinary screw holes are for a more ordinary ground screw like one with a wide flat head top on it. Then the big wide extra depth box later in video has two threaded bolt ground screw humps in it because where the box is bigger and can accommodate more wire cables going into it it is better to have a second screw to diversify and add in additional grounding location to help out in accommodating the all that big box can potentially hold at its highest limit to so do so. Note: many complaints exist that when one uses the pig tail caps as wire connectors that the more wires that need to be grounded make such an awkward giant hard to work with pig tail they now like other connectors , yet the manufacturer makes both the electrical box and the connectors that use the pig tail wire connector [ and the other connectors possibly ]. As such they give two ground bolt humps in the big box so one can pig tail so many of the wires onto one; then after use the other as well to do so thus diversifying them and using pig tail twist on wire connectors as they have made and used for years and not push folks over to another companies wire connector. They addressed the problem in their own way by adding more places to ground the ground wires to the metal electrical coupling chassis of the metallic box , and then inter connected the various ground port locations by virtue of it being a metal box - thus the ground screws are connected to the metal and both electrically are together and both serve the mob of wires in the box if the number of wires in it reach the max the box can handle should its capacity be maximized if ever in time. Note: if one connected all the ground wires of all the cables in the box to one set screw. Then used the other one to connect the device in example one with a large square back that absorbs box space on seal boxes all up. GFI outlet, or a count down timer switch or etc…. Or say a smoke detector - since they are changed every few years often many may wish for a roomy box with a lot of spare wire length since over time they chisel down and away at the spare wire length. Many home owners complain that they have no wire eft or rome to put a twitch of spare in when boxes get Tied up as such - a second pig tail and set screw to ground in a metal box is used or more liked buy them. In that: 1- set screw = all ground wire conductors that never need to be touched again hopefully. Then the ; 2nd ground screw - they like to tie jut the device to it since it will be changed out periodically every so often - smoke detectors every 6 to 10 years, and outlets when house paint colors change , switches , and lights - when styles change. By putting all the conductors on one - that would be bad Ince all would be played with when changing ou the device. By putting all things one does not normally change on one - then they can be left alone so ground wires don’t twist and snap off at the stem entry point of it entering the box making entire cable useless, and in need of being re-run through all kinds of walls, rooms and ceilings, as a result to re-establish proper 6” of spare ground length to reside in it. = hopefully a bigger box will end to a longer left over spare length in it to last for longer lengths of time. ♦Simply putting the more likely to be changed more often devices ground on a stand alone ground screw or the opposite hump in the big expanded box is an option that possibly the manufacturer intended for it to be used for, thus possibly the electrical code does allow it, or if it "does not allow it", then possibly manufacturer wanted it to be in the product as a feature that they will one day go to the board that rights the code and try to get them to see it as a better feature to aid from putting to many grounds on one ground wire connector coupler or see it as a feature in some other way or as possible a thing they can include now and late go through teh long tedious process of government approval for it to be used in that way and await an electrical code book update or change to occur over time note many folks commenting on many reviews stating situation that was just stated needs to be improved. Since so many things are absorbing the spare wire length and diminishing it over the span of time needlessly since they thought of a way to help end it.
This has to be the most informative and helpful comments I have ever had. Thanks for taking your time to write all this and for watching and commenting.
Most companies too cheap or lazy to order ground bars. I would get a long say 40 hole bar and cut it to 6 or 7" for a 8 by 8" junction box then use two screws to secure this convenient bar to side of metal box. Made installing additional ground wires a lot easier in the future.
Could you also strip a mid point of the ground wire and bug the box ground wire to that middle section? With the end of that original wire then going to ground of the receptacle? It would make for one less wire to add Thanks for the video!
Is there anyway to flush mount a metal box like that? We are building a shop with 7/16 OSB on the walls and are required to use metal boxes, but we want the box inside the wall so the outlet/switch is flush.
Does the ground wire need to be insulated My 12/2 wire has bare copper so the the ground from the box screw and the ground from the wire are all bare copper . Is there a reason yours is insulated and needed to be stripped?
@@MountaineerOutdoors I looked thru several of my homes. Everyone one of them have the ground wire into wood 4x4s. Every video I seen also uses 4x4 to screw in the ground wire. So I going to say they do ground into wood.
You’re only partially correct about whether to bond the metal box or not. If you’re only running MC cable to the box and you don’t make any splices or terminations with circuit conductors in that box, you still must bond the box with the screw and egc. Why? Because the armor of the MC cable is not intended of capable to be used as an equipment grounding conductor and all metallic non current carrying parts must be bonded. The MC armor is not identified or sufficient for bonding. In the case of metallic raceways (emt, imc, rmc) you are correct.
Another informative video...for us nubbies...easy peazy! .........In a Romex/plastic box configuration the ground is bare, in a metal box configuration the ground is shielded...can you explain why?
Most of the time in a plastic box you are using romex. In a metal box your using thhn single strand. Honestly I wish the bare wire in romex was coated. Does that help?
It definitely takes more time, and I have had to do this with my old house that seems to need custom work at every turn, but have had to drill and tap new holes for the green grounding screw with metal j-boxes. Not ideal for making good time, but what else to do.
@@MountaineerOutdoors12:20 I liked the way you twisted the wires together. I didn't know the insulated part of the wires needed to twist around themselves. You may want to mention that very important fact. Thank you. I enjoy your easy viewing and great guidance on your program.
Learned a whole lot from your videos. Potentially dumb question: If attaching metal junction box to a metal stud, is there a chance that a fault would electrify the entire metal stud/building for a split second? Thank you.
your videos are good. a question when I have metal cable like the one you are using but it only has black and white the same procedure is done for the ground I have a project to do at home but it would be great if you answered my question thank you greetings from Connecticut.
yes, it is armored steel cable from an old house that I have, but it is with these cables that have only two wires inside, black and white. Thanks for answer.🙏
I have I detached Garage with no sub panel. Two UF Cables ran under ground to the garage. One 12/2 and one 12/3. Just replaced all mc cables and added new metal boxes. Does the pigtail in the first box create a chain of proper ground for every other box with a pigtail? Biggest electrical job I’ve taken on, so I’m trying to cover all my bases. Thank you!
Anywhere there is a device (switch or Recep or junction) has to be be grounded with a pigtail. I'm guessing the 12-3 is for a 3 way from the house to the garage? Always go the extra mile to make sure that you are safe. Redundancy is the best policy
@@MountaineerOutdoors yes there is a 3 way switch for the outside security light. I’m headed to go pick up some ground screws right now! Thank you so much for the quick reply and great video! Subscribed!
Awesome video with explaination! I have a question on 11:06 where you introduced a new (3rd) green wire. I am installing Ring fllodlight wired pro camera which comes with 3 wires and mounting bracket but no green screw. If I understood correctly, here in my situation, this 3rd green wire will be my ring camera wire ? Thanks!
My honest opinion is this. Hold both in your hands and which ever one feels the most comfortable buy them. You need to be comfortable using them. I prefer the 9 inch they fit my hand the best. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Great video! Do you prefer the screw on connector more than wago? I will be doing this to my entire house and am unsure where to put the wires once in the main panel. The original installer was stupid.
In my (admittedly limited) experience using wagos in electronics low-voltage wiring, wagos don’t generate the same amount of compression force, so can’t stand up to strain the same way a properly twisted wire nut join can.
Appreciate the info. Is that bend twist, twist again and the bend the wire to form the wire hook true of any conductor that is screwed to a switch outlet etc. ?
Yeah I was wondering the same thing. I would think you would do that on the box to get a very secure ground connection, and it wouldn’t matter as much then doing just a normal hook on a receptacle or switch. But we need the pro to tell us!
I work Home Depot electrical sure I’ve learned a lot since being there but at the end of the day I sell parts not the service so any DIY folks that come in asking for advice I’m sending them here haha
One of the best comments that I have had. I really appreciate you watching and commenting and sending all of your people over to me. Have a great day ☺
imagine a world where you could do both.
you must be that DUUUUUUDE I spoke with the other day. LOL
Simplest advice is; ALL metal parts of an electrical installation must be grounded(bonded),period.Not only junction points,but all utilities and appliance frames.Then,not to say they are incompatible,but NM residential cable installations do not waste money on steel boxes.Plastic for NM(Romex) cable and steel for TW conduit,which by code,serves as the circuit ground.With conduit,devices need only be bonded to the box.
Nice video. For all the more curious folks out there the box in this video doesn't need to be bonded to the box because he is using BX wire(metal sheathing is the ground), I am of course assuming it goes to the panel or another 4x4 that is bonded. I also might clear up that your ground screw does not need to be a green machine screw, the code book states the screw only needs to be green for the devices(switch, outlet etc..) the bonding wire needs to be green or green w yellow stripe but only if insulated. Bare wire is fine for this application. Most of use just buy pre made 12 gauge pigtails that have a green screw but if you can't find any you have an alternative. Some but not all jurisdictions allow self grounding receptacles instead of the grounding pigtails.
Very well said thank you for your comment and watching
Just used a side ground clip from home depot to ground an existing junction box. The box was just for romex wire connections. It had grounds running through it but the box itself was not grounded. This was a hexagon box mounted flush at the back to a 2x4. It didnt have the raised ground at the back like some newer boxes. I was considering drilling a hole in the box side for a ground. This clip was far easier and worked perfectly. I hooked the front cut wire slightly over the clip and ran the wire from the back of the clip to a wire nut in the box. The box cover fit over the clip easily.
Definitely a life saver when you don't have any other options. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺️
Hey - just wanted to thank you for this video. Always been too uneasy with electrical - but after watching this, decided to update a electrical box in the basement following your video. Last owner wired the basement in the 80s - no ground wires or screw, metal boxes. I'm gonna check out your other vids too now. Thanks.
Good deal man, I appreciate the time you took to watch my videos. Have a great day ☺
I installed a ceiling fan last night and this video was super helpful. I ended up grounding to my electrical box and used this pigtail method. Thank you!
Awesome. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thank you. I found that to be very helpful.
My house was originally run w/ ground wires (14/2 I believe) coming up to the metal gang boxes but they were simply grounded out tot he box, and only 2 prong receptacles were installed.
I would like to bring these up to code and I felt this video was helpful in explaining the best way to ground/bond them.
After watching this, I opened up a metal receptacle box in my basement that I needed to work on. The ground wire was wrapped around the ground screw and the two ground wires were merely twisted together with no wire nut. This was done by a professional electrician! Re-did the way you showed here (along with your ground nut video). Thanks!
Awesome glad that my video helped you. Alot of guys especially older ones in my experiences do it like that. Is it right no, but unfortunately they do it like that for so long that they believe it's right.
Thank you for helping out a fellow RUclips, currently installing some 12/2 mc to add outlets for lighting our new shop and indoor riding arena, have a pretty good understanding but the here and there tips that I’m picking up from you are going to make a big difference. Thank you!
My pleasure I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Just subscribed. Nicely done. Omg - Its about time someone illustrates and provides a sample on “how to,” especially the CORRECT way. Tired of hearing different people say “you’ll be fine” your whole house is grounded. “You don’t need a ground.” Smh. Great job. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you and welcome to the mountaineer outdoors family. I really appreciate you watching and commenting
Thank you for the clear explanation and example. I've the confidence to redo my bathroom and bedroom without fearing I'm going to mess up.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
You are so good!!! Clear explanations, good examples and providing the names of the parts and the tools in your information. I will watch more of your videos. I learned a lot.
Awesome I appreciate it ☺
Thanks for this video. Answered my question about if I needed to ground if I was just using junction box as a pulling point.
Glad that this helped you ☺
lol, i really appreciated the outtake intro, that was nice!
😂 😂 Thanks. Have a great day ☺
Awesome tip on bending hook in ground wire. So simple. Wasnt aware of that method. Thanks
Thank you for your comment and watching ☺
Liked and Subscribed. Besides the quick and simple explanation that I was looking for on grounding/bonding a metal box, I liked the way you created a J-Hook. It takes practice to get it right the first time (for me, at least 🤷🏻♂️😂) even when stripping the right amount of insulation. Always felt the strip gauge on the back of a receptacle was a bit too small going with 3/4 of an inch to be on the safe side. 🤔🤷🏻♂️👍🏼⚡️🔌💡
I appreciate your feedback and thank you for your subscription. Welcome to the diy/ mountaineeroutdoors family. I am super appreciative. Have a great day ☺️
You make it look easy. Great job, you answered all my questions! Keep the videos coming.
Awesome I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
Thank you so much. This video is extremely helpful for those who are learning the ropes like me.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Thanks to this video, I NOW know what I did wrong! Thank you for sharing with the rest of us DIY'ers.
Definitely my pleasure and I thank you for your comment and watching
Then you so much for these videos!! I'm in a mechatrontics program and electrical makes my head spin, these are great!!
I appreciate your comment. Thanks for watching ☺
Fantastic video. That plus the Q & A section answered all my questions. Thank you!
Awesome.. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
Cool, thanks for the help brother.. the bending the hook part helped me a ton!! That stupid 12/3 ground popped off on a cheap light socket and this little trick did the 'trick
Awesome glad to hear that this helped you. I appreciate you watching and commenting ☺
Question: Make a video where you explain when you HAVE to use a ground bushing connector when coming into a box. I normally only see them in main panels and sub panels. But I know there is a code that explains that are required when using either eccentric or concentric holes.
Great idea for a video. I'll definitely work on it
@@MountaineerOutdoors
Is it ready yet?
😂 😂 Nope unfortunately
Hahaha. I love these videos. How about someone finally showing us how to ground a metal box when there is only a hot and neutral coming into it???
You changed the name of your RUclips channel and I couldn’t find you. Now, I am glad I did so resubscribed
Awesome, welcome back 😂. I changed it to niche down my channel a bit.
Thank you for making this video, it helped a bunch, I had no idea how to bond jump and 1900 box lol.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I say use whatever screws you want, however, the contention is that drywall screws with the steel boxes create oxidation reaction and the screws rust. I use sheet metal screws. If code calls for a specific screw and an inspector checks, he can cite that as an impropriety.
Great video! This video explained exactly what i needed to know. Thank you!
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Very nice video. I found out just today that the electrician that wired this house back in 1994 didn't bond the box for my electric cooktop and it is a box just like the one in your video (no raised dimple for the ground screw). It is mounted to the back panel of the cabinet. I think if I just try to screw the ground screw in, it will likely strip the box like you mentioned. But wouldn't running a drywall screw through the hole also screw up the threads for the ground screw? I was thinking of marking the hole, then taking the box off and drilling out the back of the cabinet where the ground screw would go.
So the short answer is yes, mark the box take it off the wall then drill out the spot. Running drywall screw will mess up your threads.
Great video! I have a square bit (robertson #2) screw driver for these green ground screws. It holds on the tiny screws without falling. I also have a tiny robertson #1 to drive set screws for devices.
As for the direction of the hook. I forget sometimes, but it's the reflected version of the question mark. So "no question" is what I tell myself to remind of the orientation.
Those Robertson are good. And they way you remember on how put the wire on is genius. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I like the video. I agree with everything except in certain situations when you have surface mounted boxes and you are using your raceway as the egc then no bonding jumper is required and the yoke contacting the box or yoke and cover contacting the box acts as the bonding jumper per NEC 250.146. I may be wrong but I see this type of installation often.
I don't think using conduit is considered a egc anymore. As far as the yoke you have to take off the Insulator tab behind the screw or make sure you are using a self grounding device
@@MountaineerOutdoors It is still acceptable to use the raceway as an egc per NEC 250.118. Although it is uncommon for electricians to do so as it is not well known. But I have seen it which prompted me to figure out why someone would not run a separate egc.
Yep your correct I looked it up. I was always taught that that was the old way. I wouldn't want to depend on that being my ground for sure. I really appreciate you teaching me something and giving me the code number.
I’m glad I was able to give some insight into proper grounding. Although you are right about not relying on the raceway as your egc. I wouldn’t want to trust it either.
Definitely I have seen rigid and emt both broken and come apart which at that point your ground is gone.
Great video. Thanks for that.
I have a cable that is going through metal ceiling fan box. The cable is not spliced at the box as yet it is just a pass through (will splice when we install the fan).
When I use the non contact tester, it shows that metal box is hot.
How do i ground this as of now? or is it not required? pls let me know
It's just reading inductance did you figure it out?
Hi i am installing a outdoor weather box running conduit It is a 60’s built no ground wire from my power source. I will have a GFI receptacle wired properly to protect remaining receptacles your thoughts on the ground wire. Thanks for your videos I have learned how to bend conduit from them 👍
My opinion is this. Can you drive a ground rod to your garage and add that ground wire to your garage panel? Then you can replace the wire from the your panel in the garage to your receptacles and all will have a ground. You adding a gfci will satisfy the code but it is not creating a ground.
Mountaineer Outdoors thank you for the reply much appreciated. This wiring is from an existing 2 wire feed to the porch area were I am going from the two wire feed to a metallic box than emt and boxes. I anticipated you would recommend a ground added. So the home panel is very inaccessible as far as the wiring distance to the outdoors. I visioned adding a ground rod than run the ground to the weather receptacle box . Your thoughts.
Thank you for all you do !!!!
So do you have a panel in the garage??? if you dont and your planning on adding a ground rod, I would run it to a grounding bridge block which you can google to find exactly what I am talking about. That way you can add more ground wires to items. Although it is not code to run a ground wire outside of a conduit or a romex to feed devices.
@@MountaineerOutdoors thanks again mike for your reply
Always my pleasure ☺
Great in depth video
Thank you
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺️
Thanks for the informative video. If your ground wire comes into the box as a bare copper wire, is it okay to use that for bonding the box instead of green plastic coated?
Absolutely!! and good question. Thanks for watching and commenting
Hey and thanks for the video, super helfpul!
Question: what is the last piece of ground wire you attached to it for? Is it to simulate if you had a receptacle or branching of to another box?
Yes a receptacle
You don't need to twist your wires together if you use the proper wire nut(ie Ideal TWISTER wire nuts) and the Mc ground wire can be wrapped around the screw in the box if it is long enough. There are several right ways of doing that. Your way is right also. Drywall screws are usually more brittle and bush league for mounting boxes,IMO. Thanks, Russ, 28 years in the Electrical Trade.
I appreciate this comment and watching ☺ have a great day
Thanks for your helpful videos ! I live in an older apt that does not have a ground wire , would adding a ground wire to the metal box alone provide protection?
Do you mean adding a wire that's starts at the ground rod or steel to the box? Or do you mean just from the box to the Recep? If it's older I may be in bx which they use to use the bx outer jacket as the ground?
You can actually Magnetize a non-magnetized nut driver (or screw driver) with to magnets using opposite polarity.
A smaller cap could also be applied to the additional wire to protect against exposure.
Great Video! I always do a mid strip in my ground wire, loop on the box ground screw and then use my excess for the switch or receptacle. Old timer taught me this, but i heard its against code. though im not sure why it would be, less connections / less resistance. How ever i do waste more wire doing this with MC cable because i pull two feet into box so ground is long enough. whats your opinion?
I believe that as long as it's not broken and in good condition send it. As far as I know most people do that and never been busted any inspector. Great question. Thanks for the comment and watching ☺
Thanks for the great video. I have a question now, if i have an outdoor receptacle that does not have a ground and I'm unable to run a ground to the electrical box that is not grounded can i just make my own ground near the location of the receptacle with a grounding rod?
No by code you cannot. That could cause a whole lot of issues down the road bottom line is no
@@MountaineerOutdoors thank you. I figured that was the case. Do you have any videos on how to ground the whole system? I really just need this one outdoor outlet to be grounded.
The best video! Thank you.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
I am an industrial electrician, from hard learned lessons never use 3 piece welded boxes on exposed work they are to easily broken, use only one piece drawn boxes for exposed work.
Fs boxes are good for sure
My house has aluminum wiring and only has white and black wires. It has an open ground on one of the boxes. How can I ground that one? There’s no green wire on the wiring since it’s an older house.
Get that aluminum wire out of there
Thank you for your video. I have a 1970s home with an electrical outlet that has AC cable running into it (hot/black is copper, neutral/white is copper but the armored cable has a thin aluminum ribbon that connects to the ground screw on the outlet. I want to add another electrical box in my shop and tie it into this outlet with the AC (the new outlet has a 14/2 Romex). When I bring the Romex copper ground into the original metal box, should I ground it into the metal box? Should I take the aluminum ground from the AC cable and screw it to the original box too in a separate spot? I do not want to tie an aluminum ground together with a copper one.
You definitely can do it just as you have written here. Thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Do you still have to run a ground wire to the ground on the outlet? Thanks for the great video!
Excellent video. What is the drill attachment you used that slides to hold the drywall screw?
This is what I use amzn.to/3FQhUhI
Meat and Potatoes starts at 8:00 onwards, great video though
😉.. I appreciate your comment and watching ☺
@MountaineerOutdoors no worries man, appreciate you and people like you who show us common folk how to get stuff done 😉👌🙏 keep up the great work!
Question or you... if you ran 4 X 6 gauge THHN wires for a 240V outlet, how do you ground the box? It is or a single device and the 6 gauge cable is way too thick to ground on that little grounding screw. Thanks again for the great information..
Working on a video for this very thing
What is the Article 250 verbiage regarding bonding by means of the MC outer layer sheath/connector, or conduit especially RMC?
I worked industrial plant maintenance electrical for decades but did very little if any installations. I do however remember back in the days when a separate ground wire was not required when connected to metal raceway. Do you know when that rule changed and or the Article that addresses that topic/issue?
Thank you.
I'll have to look. But in conduit you can absolutely use the conduit as a ground without any extra ground wire. I personally don't think that is a good idea but perfectly legal
Amazing video but how would u go about grounding with bx armored cable I understand it has its own bonding wire so how do we go about grounding an outlet or switch if the bx armored cable doesn’t have a copper ground
You will have to run new wire or use a gfci
Wouldn’t the outlet box or switch box itself be bonded can I just add a green screw with wire for the ground since it’s bonded with the bx armored cable I don’t know if I’m making any sense but hope it clear
So what you are saying is partly right. Bonded switch to box yes grounded no. I'm not sure the exact code right off but it's not legal anymore. I will have to look at it when I get home this weekend and I will let you know what I find out. From my experience though it's not and even though I probably showing ground I wouldn't trust it too many variable..
@@MountaineerOutdoorsI would appreciate that so much I’m working on my basement all my wires are bx armored cable with bonding
I want to add outlets when I test it all says correct wiring and when I test for proper ground reads 120 volts when I have the tester on black and white wire says the same when I put the tester on the black wire and the metal outlet box and would it be wise to splice and switch to romex
Thank you for the video. You earned a subscriber in me. Couple questions though. I will be doing this with splicing Romex cables. But I understand there’s no insulation for the ground. Would it be the same method? Also can I use WAGOs instead of wire nuts?
Welcome to the family. And yes same method and you can use wagos. I'm not the biggest fan of them but they are U. L. Listed. Thank you for your comment and watching ☺
The 3rd short piece (that was tied together on the wire nut) of ground wire is what you tie to the ground screw on the device going in the box?
Yep
thanks. Is there any reason why the ground wire can't simply first do a loop to the box'es green screw , and then go to the plug, all as one wire. Why make this setup with 3 wires.
You absolutely can I was just showing a different way.
Great video. Is it ok to use a silver screw with a washer instead of a green screw
As long as its a machine type screw with at least 2 threads into the box your are fine. code on that is 250.8 (A)
Im in an old house from the 60s. Its 12 guage wire running through it but there is no ground. Can i just ground the receptical straight to the box or should i run a new wire with a ground from the fusebox
If it's conduit yes but you need to verify it's connected still. Over time alot of the pipe does come apart. Pipe is technically a ground if it's in tact
Instead of using a pig tail ground wire, can you use the source ground wire by stripping a small section of it, wrap it clockwise around the painted ground screw lol, crimp it close, secure it and connect it to the load ground?
Does it matter how old the metal box is for adding a ground wire to it and can I use any screw that fits or if it already has a screw even if it isn’t green
Code says it has to be machine screw.. Green is irrelevant as long as it's a machine type screw. The age of the box doesn't matter either
Is there any code violation for using the bare copper wire instead of the green one?
No but you must use a green screw
im new to all of this. im making a 30amp extension cord to run off my generator. im using 10G 30AMP extension cord as my wire. cutting the 3 head off it and making a 4 way box. i dont have any Grounding Pigtails. Could i use some of the Green wire out of the extension cord to make up a grounding pigtail ? Thanks
If it's stranded I would make sure you use a fork terminal then insert that under the ground screw.
If you have splices from more than one circuit going through the same junction box, do all of the grounds have to be pigtailed to the box or just one of them?
Good question, but only one.
Just bought a house and all metal electrical boxes are grounded via a ground wire and ground clip. The outlets are not grounded, but in using an outlet tester, it shows the outlet is wired properly. I need to install new outlets because the previous owner painted the outlets and you can see they are old. Do I need to get a ground wire to the outlet or is the ground wire that is connected to the clip to the box okay, since the tester shows the outlet is wired properly (both amber lights to the right are on and red light off on the tester).
Good question. So make sure you get self grounding receps. And/or you remove the plastic or fiber washer that hold on the screw to the receptacle so it makes metal to metal contact. Sounds like you have an older home? They use the bx or conduit as the grounding conductor which is totally fine.
Hear me out what do you do if it’s a double outlet and another 12/2 wire going to the next outlet ? And do you treat the bare ground the same as a coated?
Grounds are grounds unless you have isolated grounds then it's different. So tie them all together. Unless they are definitely isolated grounds
Could rubber washer insulators be used with a wood screw on either side of the box wall?
Not to ground the box. Has to be of machine type
If you're using a 4 gang box with 2 receptacles would you then pigtail the 4 grounds in one wire nut? (1 to ground the box, 1 from main box, 2 separate out to each respective outlet)? TIA
Yes you can wrap one of the grounds around the screw which will eliminate a separate wire from the box to the wire nut. And yes then you would run the two separate lines off that to your receps or switches. I hope that makes sense
So if a hot touched the metal box. Fault current would travel through that bonding wire through the receptacle back to your main panel?
I see pictures of panels that have a bonding wire connected from the inside side of the panel to the door of the panel? So how does that keep the whole panel from being energized?
I think I understand this question...the fault would travel out through the ground wires to earth or water ground and take the fault from you.
Nice. I like your sense of humor! Is it against code to put stranded 12ga wire onto a receptacle screw? Or do you always need to solid wire?
No you can pull it to the Recep but you will need to add a fork terminal or add a wire nut and a solid piece of wire to it
What if one of the wires is stranded, ifor instance, a mc whip for an A/C. Can one of the 3 wires twisted together be stranded or is a different wire nut or connector required?
You can do one of two things, make a pigtail from stranded or solid or use a fork terminal
Is the metal conduit necessary for proper grounding? Does the conduit have to be attached to anything in particular at the other end?
If you use metal conduit it's in tact from the panel to your box. This answer your question?
Great video. Do I have to use a metal box and mc cable for my basement where there are no finished walls I can mount it to? Could I just build a wall segment and mount it flush to that so I can get away with using plastic?
Clear and entertaining; thank you.
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
The electrical box comes with more than one ground screw option capability. The threaded ports are for a threaded bolt. The other more ordinary screw holes are for a more ordinary ground screw like one with a wide flat head top on it. Then the big wide extra depth box later in video has two threaded bolt ground screw humps in it because where the box is bigger and can accommodate more wire cables going into it it is better to have a second screw to diversify and add in additional grounding location to help out in accommodating the all that big box can potentially hold at its highest limit to so do so. Note: many complaints exist that when one uses the pig tail caps as wire connectors that the more wires that need to be grounded make such an awkward giant hard to work with pig tail they now like other connectors , yet the manufacturer makes both the electrical box and the connectors that use the pig tail wire connector [ and the other connectors possibly ]. As such they give two ground bolt humps in the big box so one can pig tail so many of the wires onto one; then after use the other as well to do so thus diversifying them and using pig tail twist on wire connectors as they have made and used for years and not push folks over to another companies wire connector. They addressed the problem in their own way by adding more places to ground the ground wires to the metal electrical coupling chassis of the metallic box , and then inter connected the various ground port locations by virtue of it being a metal box - thus the ground screws are connected to the metal and both electrically are together and both serve the mob of wires in the box if the number of wires in it reach the max the box can handle should its capacity be maximized if ever in time.
Note: if one connected all the ground wires of all the cables in the box to one set screw.
Then used the other one to connect the device in example one with a large square back that absorbs box space on seal boxes all up.
GFI outlet, or a count down timer switch or etc….
Or say a smoke detector - since they are changed every few years often many may wish for a roomy box with a lot of spare wire length since over time they chisel down and away at the spare wire length. Many home owners complain that they have no wire eft or rome to put a twitch of spare in when boxes get
Tied up as such - a second pig tail and set screw to ground in a metal box is used or more liked buy them. In that:
1- set screw = all ground wire conductors that never need to be touched again hopefully.
Then the ;
2nd ground screw - they like to tie jut the device to it since it will be changed out periodically every so often - smoke detectors every 6 to 10 years, and outlets when house paint colors change , switches , and lights - when styles change.
By putting all the conductors on one - that would be bad Ince all would be played with when changing ou the device.
By putting all things one does not normally change on one - then they can be left alone so ground wires don’t twist and snap off at the stem entry point of it entering the box making entire cable useless, and in need of being re-run through all kinds of walls, rooms and ceilings, as a result to re-establish proper 6” of spare ground length to reside in it. = hopefully a bigger box will end to a longer left over spare length in it to last for longer lengths of time.
♦Simply putting the more likely to be changed more often devices ground on a stand alone ground screw or the opposite hump in the big expanded box is an option that possibly the manufacturer intended for it to be used for, thus possibly the electrical code does allow it, or if it "does not allow it", then possibly manufacturer wanted it to be in the product as a feature that they will one day go to the board that rights the code and try to get them to see it as a better feature to aid from putting to many grounds on one ground wire connector coupler or see it as a feature in some other way or as possible a thing they can include now and late go through teh long tedious process of government approval for it to be used in that way and await an electrical code book update or change to occur over time note many folks commenting on many reviews stating situation that was just stated needs to be improved. Since so many things are absorbing the spare wire length and diminishing it over the span of time needlessly since they thought of a way to help end it.
This has to be the most informative and helpful comments I have ever had. Thanks for taking your time to write all this and for watching and commenting.
Most companies too cheap or lazy to order ground bars. I would get a long say 40 hole bar and cut it to 6 or 7" for a 8 by 8" junction box then use two screws to secure this convenient bar to side of metal box. Made installing additional ground wires a lot easier in the future.
I'm doing this on a metal stud can I still doing exactly how you did it on this videos?
Yep
Could you also strip a mid point of the ground wire and bug the box ground wire to that middle section? With the end of that original wire then going to ground of the receptacle? It would make for one less wire to add
Thanks for the video!
Yes and I appreciate your watching and commenting
@@MountaineerOutdoors awesome thank you, didn’t know if there was a lower limit on wire gauge to what you can bug. Appreciate the video
What fitting connector could be used to secure the installation of one metal electrical box directly on top of the other?
Thanks
Are you referring to back to back or back to front?
@@MountaineerOutdoors bottom to top '"one metal electrical box directly on top of the other"
Is there anyway to flush mount a metal box like that? We are building a shop with 7/16 OSB on the walls and are required to use metal boxes, but we want the box inside the wall so the outlet/switch is flush.
Yes get a plaster ring. Then it will be perfect. They come in different sizes
What was the reason for that 3rd wire you twisted woth the other 2 in the last part of the video?
For a receptacle or a switch
Does the ground wire need to be insulated
My 12/2 wire has bare copper so the the ground from the box screw and the ground from the wire are all bare copper . Is there a reason yours is insulated and needed to be stripped?
Nope it can be bare. I bought those like that pre made that's why mine look like that
So you can Ground to the 2x4? Also what the 3rd free floating green wire for?
You cannot ground wood and the 3 rd wire is a pig tail
@@MountaineerOutdoors I looked thru several of my homes. Everyone one of them have the ground wire into wood 4x4s. Every video I seen also uses 4x4 to screw in the ground wire. So I going to say they do ground into wood.
You’re only partially correct about whether to bond the metal box or not. If you’re only running MC cable to the box and you don’t make any splices or terminations with circuit conductors in that box, you still must bond the box with the screw and egc. Why? Because the armor of the MC cable is not intended of capable to be used as an equipment grounding conductor and all metallic non current carrying parts must be bonded. The MC armor is not identified or sufficient for bonding. In the case of metallic raceways (emt, imc, rmc) you are correct.
Thank you for your comment and watching ☺
Can you use this to ground an outlet in an older house that doesn't have a ground wire?
Another informative video...for us nubbies...easy peazy! .........In a Romex/plastic box configuration the ground is bare, in a metal box configuration the ground is shielded...can you explain why?
Most of the time in a plastic box you are using romex. In a metal box your using thhn single strand. Honestly I wish the bare wire in romex was coated. Does that help?
Do u have a video on how to ground receptacles on old wiring? Like old wiring in a old building.. 🤔
ruclips.net/video/2I4HrJRZklM/видео.html
can you use bare copper solid wire for the ground wire?
Absolutely
Welp I’m regrounding my junct box now, thanks!
My pleasure thanks for watching and commenting ☺
It definitely takes more time, and I have had to do this with my old house that seems to need custom work at every turn, but have had to drill and tap new holes for the green grounding screw with metal j-boxes. Not ideal for making good time, but what else to do.
Better safe than sorry for sure.
Isn't the ground screw when installed in the metal box touching the stud behind the box? Is that ok for a ground?
If you are using boxes like I have it's raised up. Are you referring to boxes that don't have them? If so it could be
@@MountaineerOutdoors12:20 I liked the way you twisted the wires together. I didn't know the insulated part of the wires needed to twist around themselves. You may want to mention that very important fact. Thank you. I enjoy your easy viewing and great guidance on your program.
It's not important just the way I do it. The copper twisted is the most important part. Thank you for your comment and watching ☺
Great video!
Thanks!
Learned a whole lot from your videos. Potentially dumb question: If attaching metal junction box to a metal stud, is there a chance that a fault would electrify the entire metal stud/building for a split second? Thank you.
Good question. The building steel is or should be grounded so it will definitely ground itself out. I doubt you would ever feel it.
@@MountaineerOutdoors Thanks!
My pleasure ☺
Do I do anything different if I am screwing the box to a metal (aluminum) stud? Can I still ground it the same way?
Yep
your videos are good. a question when I have metal cable like the one you are using but it only has black and white the same procedure is done for the ground I have a project to do at home but it would be great if you answered my question thank you greetings from Connecticut.
I am confused so there is no ground. So it's old bx wire. What exactly are you asking me I'm kinda confused?
yes, it is armored steel cable from an old house that I have, but it is with these cables that have only two wires inside, black and white. Thanks for answer.🙏
They use the bx as your ground. You just need to make sure that if Your panel is grounded it is all the way to that bx your working with.
Thank you
That’s awesome video I will do it when working on it
Great video !!!
I appreciate it alot thanks for watching and commenting ☺
What is the third grounding wire you installed at the end for? I’m a total idiot when it comes to electrical.
It's the pigtail
Would the same grounding technique apply if you use a metal box on metal studs in a detached garage.
Yep grounding and bonding is very redundant.
I have I detached Garage with no sub panel. Two UF Cables ran under ground to the garage. One 12/2 and one 12/3. Just replaced all mc cables and added new metal boxes. Does the pigtail in the first box create a chain of proper ground for every other box with a pigtail? Biggest electrical job I’ve taken on, so I’m trying to cover all my bases. Thank you!
Anywhere there is a device (switch or Recep or junction) has to be be grounded with a pigtail. I'm guessing the 12-3 is for a 3 way from the house to the garage? Always go the extra mile to make sure that you are safe. Redundancy is the best policy
@@MountaineerOutdoors yes there is a 3 way switch for the outside security light. I’m headed to go pick up some ground screws right now! Thank you so much for the quick reply and great video! Subscribed!
My pleasure and I appreciate your subscription.. Welcome to the mountaineer outdoors family ☺. Have a great weekend
Awesome video with explaination! I have a question on 11:06 where you introduced a new (3rd) green wire. I am installing Ring fllodlight wired pro camera which comes with 3 wires and mounting bracket but no green screw. If I understood correctly, here in my situation, this 3rd green wire will be my ring camera wire ? Thanks!
I'm having the same problem. I thought it was always just me.
For light fixtures you do not need to pigtail the green. Just put all green wires together
Just omit the other green wire and put all green wires together
For Klein lineman pliers, what size do you recommend for home or DIY use? 8inch or 9?
D213? Or D2000?
My honest opinion is this. Hold both in your hands and which ever one feels the most comfortable buy them. You need to be comfortable using them. I prefer the 9 inch they fit my hand the best. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting ☺
Great video! Do you prefer the screw on connector more than wago? I will be doing this to my entire house and am unsure where to put the wires once in the main panel. The original installer was stupid.
I don't trust wagos I hear alot of good things about them just do not trust them.
In my (admittedly limited) experience using wagos in electronics low-voltage wiring, wagos don’t generate the same amount of compression force, so can’t stand up to strain the same way a properly twisted wire nut join can.
Appreciate the info. Is that bend twist, twist again and the bend the wire to form the wire hook true of any conductor that is screwed to a switch outlet etc. ?
Yeah I was wondering the same thing. I would think you would do that on the box to get a very secure ground connection, and it wouldn’t matter as much then doing just a normal hook on a receptacle or switch. But we need the pro to tell us!
Yes