Gidday - Hey excellent videos on the Krico's. I'm going to post a little info that hopefully adds to the pool of knowledge on these. Hope you don't mind. Through the good graces of a neighbour who is a Krico collector I recently acquired a very "plain jane" 300 Series 22LR, proofed 1962. The rifle is in excellent condition, practically "as new" although it's not the sort of example a collector would consider (missing parts etc). I shot the rifle with my medium quality ammo (Norma Tac-22 etc) and it is safe to say I was astonished! It would hang with many high end guns, 5 shot groups at 52 yards starting at 0.29 and not many over 0.5! This despite a very heavy trigger. I resolved to address the trigger before trying it with high end ammos like my precious stash "good batch" Eley Club and Match etc. The trigger is a very simple and "cheap" two stage design, and on my model is also the bolt stop. It has a single adjustment screw, and on first experiments even it didn't do much but its purpose is to adjust the length of the first stage. It's seems to operate on a similar principle as the Mauser 98 type. So I replaced the very strong factory spring with one about 30% less wire diameter. This has profoundly improved the trigger although there are a couple of important learnings. One is that the trigger will always be two stage. Secondly (and counter-intuitive for me initially) is that reducing the first stage is not a good thing - keep it long, this considerably shortens and lightens the final break. My final break is now 1lbs 9 oz with just a wee bit of creep. BUT it is very important for safety that the spring is strong enough to reset/re-engage the sear from the first pull. My trigger took some polishing, and still requires "just right" lubrication to achieve this. So as soon as the wind drops I'll shoot it again. Posted in case my findings help others.
Really appreciate this video, I have a Krico 320 1969, starting to get miss fires from light firing pin stick, I was thinking might be need a bolt clean or new spring? The bolt on this rifle has never been stripped, the bolt shroud in cone shaped. Any ideas? If possible could you do a video on how to disassemble, adjust, replace springs, much appreciated. Back ground, a gunsmith played around with the trigger, tried change from a 2 stage pull to single stage and lighted the trigger by replacing the spring. In short he stuffed it, another gunsmith who specializes in triggers said he have never seen a trigger like it, I posted the trigger to him, he could not adjust it properly without the action, posting firearms is a major problem now in Australia.
A bolt clean always helps, but adding a small helper spring then a washer then the factory spring can help shim the old tired spring with some preload. You have to play around and experiment with this method as the bolt will bind if too much is used. I would order a bag of mixed coil springs from Amazon eBay etc and have some fun!
@@inrangerimfire20two Thanks, I will give it a try. The bolt assembly is different than your late model(1984?), there is a very fine screw that looks like it holds the bolt shroud in place, when removed looks like shroud is screw off. I have adjusted the trigger now working OK, the Krico trigger housing is set by spaces to give the correct high to engage the trigger & bolt, too high and bolt is decocked when closing the bolt, too low trigger not engaged and bolt stop does not work. Agree, Krico rifles are beautifully engineered and made, no machining marks, probably the same or better than Anschutze. Brno/CZ are a great design and shoot well but the Krico is better made & finished. I far as I know BRNO where the only 22RF with a screwed in Barrel, correct?
Excellent - Thank you
You are welcome!
Gidday - Hey excellent videos on the Krico's. I'm going to post a little info that hopefully adds to the pool of knowledge on these. Hope you don't mind.
Through the good graces of a neighbour who is a Krico collector I recently acquired a very "plain jane" 300 Series 22LR, proofed 1962. The rifle is in excellent condition, practically "as new" although it's not the sort of example a collector would consider (missing parts etc).
I shot the rifle with my medium quality ammo (Norma Tac-22 etc) and it is safe to say I was astonished! It would hang with many high end guns, 5 shot groups at 52 yards starting at 0.29 and not many over 0.5! This despite a very heavy trigger.
I resolved to address the trigger before trying it with high end ammos like my precious stash "good batch" Eley Club and Match etc.
The trigger is a very simple and "cheap" two stage design, and on my model is also the bolt stop. It has a single adjustment screw, and on first experiments even it didn't do much but its purpose is to adjust the length of the first stage. It's seems to operate on a similar principle as the Mauser 98 type.
So I replaced the very strong factory spring with one about 30% less wire diameter. This has profoundly improved the trigger although there are a couple of important learnings. One is that the trigger will always be two stage. Secondly (and counter-intuitive for me initially) is that reducing the first stage is not a good thing - keep it long, this considerably shortens and lightens the final break. My final break is now 1lbs 9 oz with just a wee bit of creep. BUT it is very important for safety that the spring is strong enough to reset/re-engage the sear from the first pull. My trigger took some polishing, and still requires "just right" lubrication to achieve this.
So as soon as the wind drops I'll shoot it again. Posted in case my findings help others.
Thanks a lot for posting this. Your comment and experience is most certainly valuable
Another outstanding video !! - Thanks SO much fer sharing !!
Thanks pal!!
Really appreciate this video, I have a Krico 320 1969, starting to get miss fires from light firing pin stick, I was thinking might be
need a bolt clean or new spring? The bolt on this rifle has never been stripped, the bolt shroud in cone shaped.
Any ideas?
If possible could you do a video on how to disassemble, adjust, replace springs, much appreciated.
Back ground, a gunsmith played around with the trigger, tried change from a 2 stage pull to single stage and lighted the
trigger by replacing the spring. In short he stuffed it, another gunsmith who specializes in triggers said he have never seen a trigger like it, I posted
the trigger to him, he could not adjust it properly without the action, posting firearms is a major problem now in Australia.
A bolt clean always helps, but adding a small helper spring then a washer then the factory spring can help shim the old tired spring with some preload. You have to play around and experiment with this method as the bolt will bind if too much is used. I would order a bag of mixed coil springs from Amazon eBay etc and have some fun!
@@inrangerimfire20two Thanks, I will give it a try. The bolt assembly is different than your late model(1984?), there is a very fine screw that looks like it holds
the bolt shroud in place, when removed looks like shroud is screw off.
I have adjusted the trigger now working OK, the Krico trigger housing is set by spaces to give the correct high to engage the trigger & bolt, too high and
bolt is decocked when closing the bolt, too low trigger not engaged and bolt stop does not work.
Agree, Krico rifles are beautifully engineered and made, no machining marks, probably the same or better than Anschutze.
Brno/CZ are a great design and shoot well but the Krico is better made & finished.
I far as I know BRNO where the only 22RF with a screwed in Barrel, correct?
Excellent explainer!! As always.
Thanks man
Great explenation! Thanks!!
ความยาวของสปริงเข็มแทงชนวนของยาวกี่นิ้ว คุณมีรายละเอียดเกี่ยวกับสปริงเข็มแทงชนวนหรือไม่
how do you set headspace on the Krico .22lr ?
Hello there, I shimmed the bolt on my example. I used a CZ shim but had to custom grind it with a diamond burr to fit.
Took all of 5min to do
@@inrangerimfire20two thank you I will have a look,
🙂👍👍