K98 Mauser Bolt Removal, Disassembly, & Reassembly
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- This video will demonstrate how to properly remove any Mauser K98, K98k, K98a, bolt, disassemble, and reassemble. Used was the stock bolt tool devise found on WWII German made 98 rifles. A simple hole in a block will do also.
Хобби
I've watched soooo many videos like this and you my friend are the first genius to actually re assemble after disassemble and I thank you....now to watch this a few times so I have the same confidence that you possess.....once again thank you for this video
Wow, thank you!
@@norwich93CMP
Now if I can only do what you did I'd be happier than a pig in mud..lol
This is the best Mauser bolt disassembly video I've seen on RUclips.
Wow! Thank you for that hi praise. Glad it helped you!!
I've had my sporterized 98 for years, love the rifle. But I've never took the bolt apart, not yet at least. Thank you
Your welcome!
Just took apart and cleaned the bolt from my Argentine 1909 long rifle and all went smoothly, thanks to your clear and comprehensive tutorial. My rifle doesn't have the metal takedown disc so I drilled through a scrap piece of pine 2x4 into the top of my workbench to make a solid support for the pin. Thanks!
Great glad it helped. Hopefully your bolt is thankful for the maintenance.
I've never studied this rifles bolt action, truly fascinating. I had a feeling it wasn't going to be extremely simple.. the Germans are known to over engineer time to time ;) but I feel this is exactly why they were so proficient at developing new firearm designs. Some of my favorites would be the FG-42 MG-42 & the STG-44
Thank you, this was super helpful getting the bolt off. Was having issues with the safety flag stuck upside down.
Glad it helped you out. Thanks.
Thank you very much! I got my first milsurp rifle, a 1940 Steyr K98 and I was completely lost on how to clean it. It's such a fun gun to shoot, that 8mm kicks like a mule haha. I was ready to lose it for a while because I de-cocked the bolt by accident and couldn't get the bolt apart. Luckily I figured out what I did and your video got me back to functional!
Nice to hear. I have to edit the full disassembly and reassembly video and I'll post soon. Thank you!!
Great video, I appreciate it. Easy peasy and you were very clear in each step. Saved me a lot of time. Thanks again.
Glad it helped you and you're welcome!
Really nice video, thorough and well described. Appreciate it!
You are very welcome and thank you for the compliments.
This is an excellent, well made video.
Thank you for the feedback!
Lovely piece of engineering
Great tutorial 👏🏻💯
THANK YOU!
You're welcome!
Your videos are great!
I appreciate that, thank you.
Thanks for this video it was a huge help
Glad it helped you!
This info was right on for my FN M30's bolt, saw no differences.
Besides the AK series, the 1898 Mouser action has to be the most popular. Glad it worked for you!!
@@norwich93CMP I prefer my 1891 argentine's cock on close action, the 1889 pattern mauser, simpler lower part count bolt, just more spinning when you put it back together and you really need a quarter, and a table edge or piece of firewood to abuse to disassemble the bolt if you arent used to the disassembly procedure yet.
Great video; thank you.
Thank you!
Sure wished I'd watched this before I tore mine apart! I collect WW II guns, and this one is the hardest to work on yet! Your tutorial was awesome!!!!! Not just another "joe-blow" amatuer.
Thanks!!!
What a nice sling!
Yes it is, marked on the inside of the sling and then again on the frog. Its the way I bought it.
Great video
Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Muy bueno y educativo. Gracias
No, gracias amigo!
Thanks so much 👍
You're very welcome!
Muy amable buen maestro.
Gracias amigo.
No when the safety is to the left its fire, when it is straight up it's the safety and when the safety is to the right it's safe and a bolt lock that prevents the bolt from being operated. The safety is straight up and down so it blocks your field of aiming to remind you to take the safety off before firing.
Yeap, you got it!
Good you joob 👍👍
Thank you! 😃
Have a Yugoslav FN 1924. Same bolt assembly but the safety is stuck on fire and I can’t take the bolt apart file it down. Any suggestions?
See my other video about that resetting.
@@norwich93CMP alright thanks man. I figured it out now. But after solving one problem Ive ran into another. My safety gets stuck on fire and can’t switch back to safe. I’ve filed the OG one down island it hasn’t helped. I even bought a new one, but it also didn’t work. Any suggestions to fix this issue?
How do you take the bolt out of battery or fire mode to rotate the safety flange. The bolt was out of the gun and the safety flange was rotated counter clockwise into battery position and now I can’t get it out again. Any help will help.. thanks😉
You have to rotate the sleeve, which is not easy to do because you are pulling against the firing pin spring.
I effed up by turning my bolt head counterclock wise without putting it in the maintenance position and now i cant get the bolt back in. What should i do?
See my other video.
the pin as found at 5:27 realy gave me hell when cleaning my rifle
first cleaning since i got it, its from 1949 and has barely been used but the spring was so nasty that i can still feel my finger from pushing so damn hard on that blunt pin that feels sharp when putting a ton of force on it lmfao
for some reason it was the dirtiest part of the gun, but other parts were bad too
now im suprised it still fired accuratly at 100 meters when i testfired it lol
thanks for your video, was a huge help!
my rifle may be a La-Coruna but besides the bolt lever being straight as on the gewehr 98 there is no difference in the parts that matter, just some visual things
Cool!
I have an M38 Turk mauser, reworked off a WW1 G98, and I just cleaned the bolt and re-lubricated it. Is it natural for the bolt to have a little "clunk" to it on cocking the bolt?
Yes. After it is fired and the bolt body is moved one quarter turn open you will hear a clunk. It is the firing pin moving over the sear. If you return the bolt without pulling back it can be fired for a second time.
@@norwich93CMP
Perfect. Thank you for your time, I just wanted to be sure that all was well with it after re-assembly.
Great video and I will try to use it to solve my problem! I have 2 Swedish Mausers and the bolts are still in the receiver. I cannot open either of them. The safety flag is full left on both and will not move. Any suggestions?
Soak in WD40. Old gun oil dries up and leaves a lacquer residue behind binding the parts. Some physical persuading may be in order too. Good luck!!
@@norwich93CMP THANKS!! I was wondering about getting physical with them. I was afraid of breaking something.
Great video. I have a issue with my bolt which I can't seem to correct, the bolt has been removed (not by me) but the safety lever is stuck in the firing position preventing it's reassembly back into the gun, when I press in the little spring loaded pin I'm still not able to rotate the safety flag clockwise into the upright position, it won't budge at all. Any advice would be appreciated.
If I am following correctly you will need to pull the firing back and rotate the sleeve. This is very hard to do. The safety needs to line up with cuts in the cocking piece, many times if they don't line up just right the safety won't move.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks for your advise, I did exactly as you described, I've sorted it now. Cheers
I had the same thing happen to me on a Yugo refurbed K98k that I bought at an online auction. That was a pain in the butt to fix for sure.
Its great, but complicated mechanism
Mauzer kompliciran? Izgleda da baš nisi najbistriji ako ti je to komplicirano..
Is that an original WW2 stock? Also what year exactly?
Yes it is, 1942. The second on is a WWI early in the video.
👍👍
Thanks!!
So my extractor ring broke, you know the one you said not to ever remove? And I'm not sure what to do, I ordered a replacement ring but I'm not sure if that will ever fit flush enough to work properly. Do I need to get an entirely new bolt? Or do you think I can make it work?
Try the replacement collar first. The extractor should cinch it closed enough to clear the receiver, if it doesn't then you might have to replace the bolt and check headspace.
The bolt and extractor collar should have tight tolerances, so it may not be perfectly circular before you put it on, but once you put it on the bolt body, and put on the extractor, it will fit perfectly since the extractor will be holding the collar closed
Please help me . I removed the bolt while leaving it in the fire position. Now I can not further take down the bolt the piece will depress but it won't spin freely . I am truly at a loss here . Anyone please help . Any advice at all .
I'll make a video for you.
@@norwich93CMP thank you man I really appreciate it
ruclips.net/video/7D3rCSUXI2g/видео.html
Let me know how you make out!
My safety does not work correctly, I am going to break it down and clean all parts, I hope this will fix problem.
Definitely something to look into!
Cómo limpio el cañón? Amigo
Always pull or push from the rear to the front.
Bro i was trying to solve that issue with its bullets but I when pulled the cocking piece it is removed from the bolt and now I can't fix it
Disassemble and reassemble is the only solution I can think of based upon your question. I hope that helps.
Как всё очень подробно, жаль что не по русски !
Da, pleseba.
Bisa pesan gak yg grendel yg sudah jadi bos,
?
Tengo 1 de esos mauser me he difícil conseguir las balas 7 mm.ayudeme
Sorry, you no se.
U srednjem položaju je isto zakočeno,to nije samo za rastavljanje.
👍👍👏👏👏
Pretty sure a real rifle doesn't have this issue... but the black part that you twist to screw in that has the safety, but my replica slips to the left if I pull the bolt back and I cant seem to ever get it to stop. Any input?
No sorry.
@@norwich93CMP all good