This is the first video of yours that I've watched, and I must say, I am completely impressed with your shooting rest equipment! A side-view mirror, a rolled up T-shirt and a paper plate with a hand-drawn target!! Sir, you are spectacular! Keep it simple and old-school, and you will never go wrong!
I've got a Chinese copy of your CZ that I've had for years. When I bought it, I went to the range to test it. It put 5 shots in a group the size of a dime at 50 yards with iron sights. After years of it sitting in my closet, and my eyesight getting worse, I finally put a scope on it. A 9-24x40 so I can reach out and touch something. I can't wait for the weather to improve to take it out and have some fun.
I zeroed my Ruger 10/22 at 50 yards, and found that it was also zeroed at 30 yards. The arc of the CCI Mini Mag has the impact dead center at 30 as well as 50 yards. At 75 yards I have to hold 2 inches high, and at 100 yards 5 inches high. It is well worth the hour or so figuring out how your rifle and ammo perform. Thanks for an informative video. That is a good looking rifle you have.
I believe that it's far more important to know where your rifle shoots throughout it's effective range than what specific distance it's zeroed at. After the initial experimentation that many of us go through, with fire-power from semiautos and pumps, listening to "expert" opinions on the optimum distance to sight in at and what ammunition to use, I've been using the same set-up since 1978. That's an Anschutz Mod.1422 (54 sporter), using standard velocity ammo, sighted at 50m. The rifle was horribly expensive back then and the equivalent still is, but I think that I've had my money's worth. Mind you, I've seen many later rimfires which were just as accurate, such as CZs at a third of the price and some others which were embarrassingly cheap. Bottom line, sight in at an appropriate range and practice until you really know your rifle.
Thank you sir, great work. I have a Tikka .22, but I do use the exact same ammo (also suppressed), and I really like it. Your work confirmed everything I’ve been looking at doing. Again, thank you!
Sub-sonic 22 LR are great for being quiet (esp with a sound moderator) but they are very susceptible to changes in distance, uphill or wind. If zeroed at 50m, a typical 22 sub-sonic will drop by 1/2" to 1" at 75/80m and a little more by 100m. You can use the mil-dots on the reticle if you have them, usually aiming a mil-dot below the crosshairs will help compensate for shooting out to 80m.
Most of my .22 shooting is Precision Rifle, to distances up to 500 yards, so my zero is different. Our closest target is match heads at 25 yards, so that's my POA and POI for all rifles I shoot (others may do differently). Once there, every following distance is aimed according to my balistics calculator (Strelok), which will calculate MOA or Mil, depending on which rifle I'm shooting. From 25 to 100, my Mil is just under 7 inches (6.95), so I up two clicks and there I am. Some day I may go back to hunting (77 now) and could possibly use your target size for zeroing. Nice rifle, good shooting, my Friend. Thanks for the chat.
If it's done right the bullet will cross the "sight" setting twice, and your targets do demonstrate this ---you are not sighted in at 50 yards however ---you are sighted at 25 yards with the bullet trajectory still rising, being a half inch or so high at 50 yards and may still rise another 1/4 inch or so before dropping back to a second true siting distance around 75 yards and ending up just a bit low at 100 yards ---the "never over or under" x amount can be enhanced by having a higher mounted scope than a super low mounted scope ---I had a combination where the first intersection was a 22.5 yards and it gave me a one inch high to one inch low all the way out to 110 yards ---which is also dependent on the ammo used and barrel length ---so there is a lot of fun experimenting with this
why do you claim this? With a high powered gun and scope the projectile set to slightly rise up to and thru the vis line of the scope above the barrel, then to settle back down thru that same vis line as the projectile starts it drop... at 2 points the round goes right thru the horizontal like of the scope center...@Yettiattack
@Yettiattack you are totally correct, the round never rises. It is only the sight picture that gives this impression and the ballistics is misunderstood .
I suppose that is one perspective & maybe used for some reason in the industry... but it is flawed. The trajectory for reference, that matters most, & starting point, is the direct path as viewed thru the scope. This is the stage that defines this whole process.... so a better perspective is seeing how the barrel is adjusted up to and thru the line of view of the scope before descending back thru this primary reference trajectory as it continues to drop. So while the bullet does drop as soon as it leaves the barrel, it drops on an upward trajectory initially, to meet the primary line of sight trajectory. @Yettiattack
I agree also with the sub sonic stuff too…got a 77/22 as all weather with modified trigger and it loves the stuff… don’t like all the flyers with hyper ammo…👍🏼
I have that exact rifle but with the wood stock and agree entirely with you re those CI subsonics (1076fps) hollow points. I cannot believe how accurate this set up is. So glad someone else says the same.
Sir, Absolutely Brilliant !!! I haven't shot competition iron sights in near 50 years but still so "programed" to aim at round targets. The application of your idea changes my entire view of zeroing a scope sighted rifle (diamonds within diamonds) as I'm about to enter the ,22 Silhouette game. How coincident that I should nail your 22nd thumbs up! May all your shots be true!
Thanks for this video. For an even better sight picture, rotate the square 90 degrees and put the crosshairs on the intersection of the lines making the four sides.
If you rotate the paper 90 degrees you will be looking at a profile ...180 degrees would have you looking at the back of the original square....right???? 45 degrees will just oblique the paper
The first thing I do with a new .22 rifle is to find an ammo that places shots consistantly. After that , sight in range is a matter of personal preference. I have one of mine that groups C.C.I. Quiet rounds very consistantly at 100 yards
For his shorter ranges with slower ammo, not a bad suggestion. For typical 1240 fps ammo I suggest 1 inch high at 50yds. Your POI won't blow out your POA and your actual zero will be moved out to ~73 yds, ~3" low at 100yds which is a convenient 1 mildot (mil radian).
This is just my philosophy but: I see 50 yards for standard/subsonic velocity and high velocity - 75 yards for MiniMags and most hyper velocity out to 100. It pretty well just boils down to how far you want to do it but you have better, flatter trajectory with higher velocities at farther ranges.
@@jimsatterfield8748 That's where I see them for better pest control of larger things. I would rather hit a bobcat at 100yds than try for a squirrel at that same distance. lol.
I would agree with that. Both from a power perspective and being able to hit a 2" circle. Unfortunately the Hyper velocity stuff using the lighter weight bullets (like 30 grains), I'd still max them out at 75 yards. Their best use is for 50 yards on tougher game (that most use the 22 magnum for. 22 magnums probably are best at 100 yards and under). That's MY experience with hunting with .22 rifles for about 50 some years.
Use 25 yds as the bullet is known to cross the same height of the arc at 75 yds and will be about 0.5 inch high at 50 yds and same about 0.5 low at 100yds.
I like your simple no frills style and budget targets for zeroing. Those 50 and 100 yards results were very impressive and will get the job done, not sure about the 25 yarder, that one must have been a flyer which we get from time to time. Just imagine how much that stray bullet would be off at 100 yards. In my humble opinion you have just about the best set up for small game hunting there, gotta love a CZ.👍
I still have a Marlin 99 which preceded the Marlin 60 and is a tubular fed .22, topped with a 6 X Weaver scope. This rifle will routinely hit 1 /2 to 1 inch targets at 50 yards. Not sure what it is capable of at longer distances. Ammo used is typically CCI or Winchester high velocity
Use to love a night or two on the rabbit control with the 22lr. Ricochet's can be a thing to watch out for. You're right. More so when the ground is so hard from the long hot dry summer days. Keep up the good shooting great video
I use 40 yards. With standard velocity ammo, the path of the bullet doesn't deviate from line of sight by more than 1/2 inch from 20-65 yards. I sight it this way because I use the gun primarily for squirrel hunting and these are the ranges that 99% of my shots are taken. Headshots only.
I use 40 as well, but because I shoot out to 200 yards, and sometimes closer than 40, it means that when I lase and dial, I'm only ever dialing up. Close in is a dial up for height over bore. Farther out is dialing up for gravity. add 1.75moa and I get the 20/70 crossover everyone loves. Add a bit more I get 90 which is a shockingly useful mbpr. I lase and dial when I can, but I know a few different general hold zeroes and 40 yards as the base means they're all a few clicks up.
in my experience, best zero range depends on intended use; for target shooters zero for target distance; for plinking or small game, a zero range that keeps your bullet inside the vital area so it does not rise above or fall below where you want to strike. the load used in this video rises to within 1/2 inch of line of sight at 10 to 15 yards and falls below 1/2 inch at about 60 to 65 yards. according to nikon spot on ballistics calculator it should fall to almost 8 inches below line of sight at 100 yards. changing zero range to 75 yards yields a drop of 4 1/4 inches at 100 yards but at the cost of rising 1 1/2 inches or more between 30 and 55 yards. of course a ballistics calculator only provides a guideline; after using it to determine how a load should perform one should fire test shots at all ranges to confirm how the load behaves with your equipment. hope it provides some insight.
Now that is a proper Irish Beard Sir! ;) I sight my 22lr hunting rifles in, 1 inch high at 50 yards. I shoot CCI 40 grain HP Velocitors in a CZ Royal and CCI 36 grain HP mini-mags in a CZ Trainer. Both of these particular rifles handle the high velocity ammo very well, shoot very accurately. I do shoot a lot of sub sonic through an CZ MTR, but also use high velocity ammunition through it as well, depending on the task. At 300 yards, it shoots Aguila extra high velocity 40 grain SP like expensive target ammo! It makes no sense, but rifles are a fickle thing at times aren't they? :) Great video my friend! I can't count the number of ground squirrels and rock chucks that I've shot while sitting in my rig, along old country roads, or grouse along old logging roads.
I sight my .22lr in at 50-60 yds., then by setting a "kill zone" for whatever varmint is on the agenda, you can find the MPBR. Maximum Point Blank Range, a long bit of terminology to designate the distance where you don't have to change your hold to attain target termination. Small game would have a small kill-zone, large game larger, if desired. You just demonstrated a sufficient MPBR with the 50yd zero. My .223 varmint rifle is zeroed at 200yd, that keeps the grouping within 3" kill-zone out to 225yds. 1-1/2" high at roughly 100yd, 1-1/2 low at 225yds. A larger kill-zone stretches out the MPBR, obviously.
I must say, I do enjoy the pronunciation and accent. My family lived in 'the North' from roughly the 13th Century on (my branch immigrated to the New World prior to the Revolution). Carefully examining the three targets - excellent procedure and great shooting, by the way - the fifty yard target (group) somewhat sits to the left. Within the square and quite tight, but a bit to the left. The one-hundred yard target should magnify that a bit, and it does. No great shock. The twenty-five yard group is well centered, but any windage effects are mitigated at such close range. I envy you your rifle. I wanted a CZ 457 in .22 long rifle, but could not get one due to the COVID panic. I did find a Zastava .22 rifle, topped it with with a suitable scope and sighted it in. I adjusted it to impact a 50 meter - ? - target about an inch high. So the trajectory is much like yours. My rifle also likes CCI ammunition, but the copper washed "AR' product. Excellent video, sir. You were clear in thinking and easy to follow. I wish more who make similar videos were as straightforward and knowledgable as you.
20 morons have told you it's illegal to do that in America...not one American has commented that your steering wheel is also in an "illegal place" in America. Guess what people, he's not in America, and likely doesn't care.
As a Disabled hunter it is 100% Leagal to hunt from a car, depending on the state you have to be 30 feet from the road, unfinished roads gravel dirt or grass just off the tire ruts
Well pretty simple: from the bedroom window to the birdfeeder, about 40'. Aguila 60gr sniper sub-sonic, out of a beat up high standard pump, w/a crappy, no-light gathering scope (cuz i can't find 30mm rings that will grab that teeny-tiny receiver groove), that is a tack driver, & the 60 grainers absolutely hammer marauding skirrels! 😀
With my air riffles I put a target at every 10 yards and mapped the trajectory. - out to 60 yards. Transferred it onto graph paper and plotted the trajectory curve. I then put a straight line along the curve such that I could be as close to it as I could. This gave me a zero of 43 yards. The advantage of this was that at other ranges either side of 43 yards the deviation of point of impact would be a very small distance above or below the cross hairs. Sounds like your man there has done a very similar thing. Most folk would zero an air riffle at 25 yards meaning they’d have quite a drop at 40. All I’ve done is taken ‘a line of best fit’ which we’ve all done on graphs at school.
Hello George My Irish ancestors came to the Colony's (Georgia) prior to the revolution and being raised in the south I have been enjoying shooting and hunting for 70 of my 75 years. Never used .22 subsonic but with my favorite rifle, Marlin 880 SQ and CCI .22 long rifle MiniMags at. 25 yards I can often get a three shot clover leaf . Took some effort to find which brand and loading of 22 my rifle liked best. Enjoyed the post looking forward to seeing more we say here in the South Y'all come see us sometime!
Do anyone of you remember Winchester Laser .22 ammo? 37 grains high velocity silver case. It was accurate and deadly. Several friends noticed this and so did I. Made in Australia, it cannot be got now. RSW was good ammo, but can't be got now easily. They made small CB Flobert ammo with a round ball deadly on rats in the barns. Eley subsonic is a very accurate round and Tenex is very accurate. The head space of the rim is slightly less than American brands.
@@springerspanielful They were actually better for hunting than Stinger. 37 grains with chrome plated cases. CCI are OK but not exceptional. RWS was great ammo.
Sir i have a cz 455 thumbhole varmint i love the rifle. Thinking about getting a .22 wm barrel and magazine or kit. Its nice to see how enthuesiastic you are. Man keep it going. Thumbs up. by the way forgive me my english.
@@springerspanielful Why thank me. I am at the Same level of liking the old cz 455. Never thank me sir. Its just the joy of shooting this rifle. It was my first rifle with an optisan vortex viper on it 4x16 it is a joy so i know how you feel sir. My respects you have.
In general, it seems that slower ammo shoots tighter groups than faster ammo. The old timers used to shoot shorts for accuracy. Those would have a similar velocity as sub sonics. The holy grail of 22 ammo and gun combinations would be one that never shoots a flyer with hypersonic ammo.
Anything over 1250 FPS shoots flyers in my guns. I stick with slower velocities. I see CCI has a round out that is over 1600 FPS. I might buy a box just to see how bad they are.
I've participated in a few indoor bench rest competitions @ 30 yards with bolt action iron sight rifles using range issued .22 Shorts and the main problem was too many shots in or near the bullseye to accurately score the target.
@@michaelvrooman5681 - I believe you are meaning CCI "Stingers" and my 2 cents - they aren't very good - I have shot them out of a variety of guns, never was impressed, same goes for the Yellow Jackets (Remington, I think and are around 1500ish FPS), speed doesn't mean better with .22s. Best accuracy is sub-sonics, 1260FPS stuff shoots really well in all my CZ's. What gun are you using? Cheers...
Interesting topic, the humble .22lR. I love my .22's, I don't love the fact that they all prefer different ammo but that's a .22 for you. As has been mentioned previously in the comments, the Zero distance is a matter of preference ammo and target type. Just to add my little bit. One of my .22's is used for silhouette out to 200yds with a 45 yd sight-in, I use a Sightron SIII 8-36x56 scope and I dial the scope for each distance using a range finder, this rifle likes SK Std plus ammo with a 40gn bullet traveling at 1073fps, While my go to hunting .22 has a Bushnell elite 3-9x40 scope and is zeroed at 72yds which gives that rifle a 2" kill zone from 19yds out to 83yds (MPBR) with a 36gn bullet travelling at 1260fps, all I need to do is hold the x-hair on the target. Out past 83yds you are using hold overs. Nice video, thanks
I zero at the range I wish to hit things at and this probably varies man to man. I normally restrict my 22RF shooting to maximum 60yrds and anyhting over that I move to the 17HMR to do the job. I have a n Airmax scope which has a super reticule and I know exactly where each dot will kill at out to 60 yrds.
I haven't hunted rabbits in years. I shot many of them when I was younger. All my friends thought I was crazy because I didn't use a .410 shotgun. I used my first gun - a Winchester Model 1890 in .22 WRF (some call it .22 Special). I still have that - rifle slide action, tube fed, open sights. But it is retired now. I have several .22LR revolvers, pistols, and rifles. I have almost bought a CZ 452 a couple of times. I often kick myself for passing on those guns. Thank you for this great presentation. I would probably zero at 40 yards rather than 50. But my distance shot would be a little closer.
Try using Redfield sight-in targets. They are cheap relative to ammunition costs. The big bars can be used to align your rifle precisely for each shot. The amount of florescent bar on each side of the crosshairs gives you very repeatable rifle alignment for each shot. That repeat alignment makes zeroing much easier.
I use allen targets that splat when you shoot them. I can adjust my sights without walking 50 or 100 yards after every group. Maybe I am. A little lazy.😁
@@nhwnhw02 my problem is poor vision. Most of my rifles have scopes and the couple that have open sights my gun dealer put Hi Vis sights on. That is why I like the bright colored splatter targets also..I skip the spotting scope and crank my rifle scope up to 9x to veiw my groups. Each to thier own I guess. 🤔
@michael vrooman can relate to the vision thing. Was super nearsighted for 50+ yeats. Then for cataract surgery went the other way. Can't see closeup but really cheap reading glasses are perfect. A #1 for iron sights allows me to pickup front sight and still see target. Was sighting so hardware yesterday and had to change glasses to adjust scope correctly. Didn't notice at first that tiny print said 1/2 moa, I just assumed it would be 1/4 moa. Then later went up instead of down due again to small print. Something I really value now is any scope with an illuminated dot at the junction of the crosshairs.
i have always drew 1 inch squares on my target paper. it is just so much easier measuring square vs round. and no i do not actually measure them. i know what an inch is.
You zero at 25 and you'll be zeroed again at 60 yards, and only about 1/2 inch high at 50 yards. In fact you'll drop only about 1/2 inch all the way to about 75 yards.
CZ455 Varnint with CCI Standard Velocity. 16 / 65 yd = 0 25 yd = +5/8" (Sight In) 40 yd = +1" 75 yd = -1" I typically sight it in on the 25 yard pistol range.
Hi there George, we've got a couple of. 22 rifles, a really old 10/22 ruger and a nice Thompson Centre elite, both semi auto. Used only for smaller game (rabbits and hare's) both scoped. Accuracy for both definitely is dependent on the ammo, fortunately they both shoot cci subs extremely well. I've been sighting in at 50 yards for over 40 years and this has worked well for me in. 22. On the odd occasion when I've had to use other ammunition the accuracy has not been comparable and other problems appear, such as jamming, never happens with the cci though, and both actions are kept in as new condition. Good video mate, by the way here in nz it's illegal to discharge a firearm from a vehicle, but don't tell the deer cause my wing mirror is the perfect rest for my 270 browning 😏
I tried several semi auto .22 and I never could get them to reload reliably. Those that did reload skimmed lead from the bullets which damaged accuracy. I had a BSA and a CZ and had friends with other makes and none reloaded every time. How do you find the 10/22 and Thompson Centre ?
@@ValMartinIreland I've had an identical experience with semi autos,there's always a problem of some kind,misfires,failure to cycle,fussy re ammo.Can't beat the tried and trusted bolt action.
Haven't been shooting long didn't know different ammo different results, I have Savage arms model 64a semiautomatic it just sprays subsonic but mini-mag is 10 rounds 3" circle at 100 yrds fast as I can pull the trigger
Not a big fan of semi autos,in my experience they are not as inherently accurate and consistent as a bolt action,also they tend to be fussy re ammo,and misfire more often.
@@springerspanielful I agree, very few semi-automatics can compete for accuracy with a good quality bolt action. The only one I've come across was a Beretta, but that was over 40 years ago and I don't remember the model. The problem with using low velocity ammo in a s/a is that it may not have enough power to cycle the action consistently. If you're firing shots as fast as you can pull the trigger, you're going to warm the barrel up. It won't be as noticeable as with a centerfire, but it's still enough to destroy accuracy.
do the same with LR and see what happens cb shorts or CCI brand of shorts they are only good for 710 FPS which is not bad but not great either for long range , and you will also get tigher groups with regular LR rounds as well at the same ranges
I sight my twenty-twos at less than twenty yards from the shoulder as I would hunt, and attempt to place three shots in an extremely close group. (single hole). A rifle bullet travels in an arc and passes the same point at two distances close and far. Missing a target at extreme range is caused more often by the shooter than the firearm/sights. Windage is more important than trajectory in sight adjustment I have hunted with a twenty-two for sixty-five years and my sighting method has served me well.
Its impossible for any .22 lr cartridge to hit pretty much in the same spot at 25, 50 and 100 yards without holding either extremely high or low on the target. If this guy says he is aiming dead center at all 3 distances , hes not telling the truth since all 9 shots hit within 1 inch of each other vertically and thats not possible. When sighted in at 50 yards, that round will hit 6 inches low at 100 yards.
Especially with subsonic ammo, which has a steeper trajectory. If he is indeed aiming at the centre dot each time, that rifle is zeroed at 25 yds. His 50 yd shots are higher, which demonstrates that the round is still climbing due to the short zero, and the 100 yards are dropping down to the "second zero" distance again. There seems to be some confusion over "zero" and "group". I suppose the rabbits still feel the same way about it.
I like a dimond shape target, just take the square and turn it 45 degrees, on its side. I zeroed at 50 for along time but over time, found 75 the optimum zero point for .22 lr rifles, especially if your pushing out farther than 100.
Good to see someone else uses the CCI subs for rabbits. My BRNO model 2 is sighted at 75M and is inches low at 100M plus inches high at 30M so I might have to change my zero. Also I am having stabilization problems from 30M to 100M. I'll try your sighting and see if at least the trajectory improves. Thank you.
John W - What did you find out? What distance did you go for your first zero? I have to ask, what do you mean by "Also I am having stabilization problems from 30M to 100M."? I don't understand? If you are using sub sonics (and fact that they don't go super sonic) there shouldn't be issues with bullet stability. Any .22 round going faster than the speed of sound goes super sonic and comes out of super sonic, as it slows - this is where instability happens. That is the entire purpose for using subs, they tend to be more accurate because of that fact. Cheers...
@@irishkelly654 The projectiles are hitting the target sideways, that is what I mean by stabilization problems. I live in a fairly built up area and noise is an issue so I use subs to keep the neighbours happy... about 250M on either side of us. My rifle is still zeroed at 70M because that's the distance I get most of my rabbits at and at 30M I'm hitting 40mm high and at 100M about the same below the aiming point. Due to the stabilization issues there have been many times where I know I have done my part but the ammunition has caused a clean miss. My field of fire is limited by the location of neighbours and their outbuildings so I have to stick to the subs. Actually a .17 would be safer to shoot but try telling that to people who are unfamiliar with firearms.
@@JohnWilliams-iw6oq - Thanks for the reply...I do believe the term is called keyholing. Does it do it with all ammo or only a certain kind? You may have barrel issues, worn or a bad crown?? I had a .17 HMR do this to me and a CZ 452 Varmint to boot...had to re-barrel. I had not heard the term until it happened to me. Best of luck to you, cheers.
@@JohnWilliams-iw6oq - forgot to add...I also think a .17 HMR would safer, those little pills are so fast they tend to disintegrate upon impact rather than ricochet, like.22's tend to do.
I can understand using subsonic to take advantage of the can or shooting in the back yard ,otherwise standard rounds like the stinger perform much better
If you zero at 25 yds, this is the first intersection of bullet and line of sight, the rifle will be also zeroed at 70 yds. (Second intersection). This is obviously a rule of thumb only.
Never had a misfire? I don't believe it. I have had Remington .22LRs misfire in every .22 I own, sometimes as many as four or five per hundred rounds. However, CCIs are more reliable.
I stopped buying Remington because they are inconsistant. I have one savage that misfires about 1 of every 10 of the cheaper CCIs but I think the gun is the problem. Not the Ammo
Good video! I have the CZ 452 heavy barrel varminter. Had it just over 20 years I think and bought it new. In the field I use Winchester subs 42 gr and CCI Velocitors.
The army zeros all small arms at 100 meters (39.5). 308/ 7.62x51 M-14, M-16. fireing at a 2 INCH square .WE zerowed the 90mm on m60 tanks H.E at 1000 meters.
I always use sub-sonics 40 grain bullets.......but zeroed at 50 yards the bullet drop is around 6 inches out to 100 yards. 50 yard zero two inches drop at 75 yards....... 6 inch drop at 100.... 14 inch drop at 125 yards. At 125 yards can still hit a walnut !
Optimum sight in range Depends on your use. Use a trajectory calculator to begin - not a bad place to start IMO You need Velocity(actual in your rifle, not the manufacturers claim) weight and Ballistic Coefficient of the bullet. CCI 40gr 1070fps / BC = 0.123 . Of course IMO it's best to have the flattest trajectory(least hold over/under) over the useful range, for your intended use.
I have a CZ 457 with a variable power Vortex scope, the rifle is zeroed at 50 yds then I just use my turrets on the scope to adjust for distance out to 300 yds its all pretty darned simple, I feel I have everything I am using this rifle for covered.
There can be a lot of variables (height of scope mount, ammunition (speed)) which affect trajectory arc for any given zero, but the "good 'ol faithful" standard for a 22 was / (still is?) 25yd zero = inch high at 50yds = 75yds zero = 4 inches low at 100yds (and 10 inches low at 125 yds). I've never seen a reason to deviate from that - unless zeroing for the exact distance you're shooting at :)
Thank you for the video. I shoot league at 17 yards indoors. So those firearms i zero at that . For my larger firearms, 308 and 7.62x39 i zero at 25 yards, indoors. That puts me close at 100 yards. Most of my shooting is indoors where i live. It is a hour plus drive for outdoor ranges.
For sighting my cz 457 mtr i use a solid bench and a leadsled, this has got to be better than a car window and rear view mirror. I sight my rifle in 3 inches low at 100 yrds that way it is 3 inches high at 50 yrds. as for target i use printer paper then dab it with a red bingo dabber, it is about 1 inch. Easy,cheap and simple
Thank you. I shoot two Marlin .22 semi-auto rifles. One I turned into a bullpup version for hiking since I lost my left leg and kept the second as it is because it is made of stainless steel and nickel plated and the gun was made in Huntsville, Alabama and has a very beautiful stock so I put a very powerful scope on it. The other Marlin was manufactured in the original Connecticut factory but I rebuilt the rifle because the action was worn out and tuned it into a bullpup with the action behind the trigger with a lever back to the firing mechanism that works very well for me. Any way I appreciate this video for how you zero your rifle. Have a good 2023 and 2024 coming up. I shoot Winchester 40 grain hollow point ammunition mainly in my rifles because t hey seem to like those bullets the best in the action and that is due to the way the shell casing is made and catches the lever wire that moves the bullet out of the tube to the barrel for firing the semi-automatic rifles. I usually never miss unless it is really windy or bad weather with the Marlins. Any way thank you very much for the video on how you zero. I use a gun mount to xero my rifles on a table and can zero in two shots. One I shoot and bullet hits the target and then I just adjust the scope to where the bullet hole is and I'm done with getting the rifle zero perfect and works well for me with the gun in a gun mount that is very secure keeping the gun from moving and being semi automatic I don't have to worry with accidentally moving the gun to zero with a bolt lever to reload...which is nice... just pull the trigger after taking it off safety. Any way thanks and wish you and those that watch your videos the best.
Nice job, straight to the point on most issues and equipment. I shoot a ruger 10-22 with a scope for squirrels and I am going to need to change my scope and setup as its not dialed in properly and the scope is so crappy it justifys my poor shooting ,, I can shoot perfect 1/2 inch at about 30 yds = 29 meters, and its not even close on at 50 yds,
nevermind if a rabbit has a head as large as a grapefruit… i loved your video and it was very interesting. i’m sure you shoot better than the commenter who said you’d better run. i gave your video a 👍
Buenos disparos, con ésa joya de CZ, la respiración parece haberte traicionado a 25 yardas. Ya que te gusta la caza, como a mí, en especial las liebres hasta distancias de 250 yardas, te recomiendo muy encarecidamente que pruebes el nuevo proyectil XTREME calibre 22 de la Fábrica Norman de 43 grains y 1.169 pies por segundo. Lo bueno está en la parte de atrás de la bala, a la que se le ha agregado un cono invertido, cola de cohete, con el puedes disparar a 300 yardas con buena precisión. Increíblemente este proyectil teóricamente podría golpear un blanco de 12" a 600 yardas. También es muy efectivo en la caza de presas más grande, con disparos quirúrgicos. Saludos y buena caza, que siempre sea un ARTE conservacionista, que heredamos de Nuestra propia condición de Hombres.-
This is the first video of yours that I've watched, and I must say, I am completely impressed with your shooting rest equipment! A side-view mirror, a rolled up T-shirt and a paper plate with a hand-drawn target!! Sir, you are spectacular! Keep it simple and old-school, and you will never go wrong!
Needs must I suppose,glad you enjoyed the video.
I fully agree, 😉
I agree with everything you said. Lol
Whats with the sausage tube? To loud!!!
Lol , its illegal to shoot a firearm while sitting in a vehicle . 😆
its not often you see videos of this kind coming from Ireland we need more of them
There will be,subscribe so you won't miss them.
I made some but I aint as eloquent or as handsome than Mr Gundog and Fly.
I've got a Chinese copy of your CZ that I've had for years. When I bought it, I went to the range to test it. It put 5 shots in a group the size of a dime at 50 yards with iron sights. After years of it sitting in my closet, and my eyesight getting worse, I finally put a scope on it. A 9-24x40 so I can reach out and touch something. I can't wait for the weather to improve to take it out and have some fun.
Any updates?
I zeroed my Ruger 10/22 at 50 yards, and found that it was also zeroed at 30 yards. The arc of the CCI Mini Mag has the impact dead center at 30 as well as 50 yards. At 75 yards I have to hold 2 inches high, and at 100 yards 5 inches high. It is well worth the hour or so figuring out how your rifle and ammo perform. Thanks for an informative video. That is a good looking rifle you have.
I many states, shooting like that, from a vehicle, is taboo. 😂
I believe that it's far more important to know where your rifle shoots throughout it's effective range than what specific distance it's zeroed at. After the initial experimentation that many of us go through, with fire-power from semiautos and pumps, listening to "expert" opinions on the optimum distance to sight in at and what ammunition to use, I've been using the same set-up since 1978. That's an Anschutz Mod.1422 (54 sporter), using standard velocity ammo, sighted at 50m. The rifle was horribly expensive back then and the equivalent still is, but I think that I've had my money's worth. Mind you, I've seen many later rimfires which were just as accurate, such as CZs at a third of the price and some others which were embarrassingly cheap.
Bottom line, sight in at an appropriate range and practice until you really know your rifle.
Sound advice.
Truth spoken
Nice discussion. I have a CZ in 22 and a Tikka in 17hmr. Both are very accurate and a joy to shoot.
Two lovely rifles.
If I EVER see a Rabbit with a head as big as that circle I'm gonna RUN because that sob is gonna get MAD when you hit it...!!
Best comment yet,good man and thanks.
His rabbit head reference was the 2” square dufuss.
@@bobcasteel7811 - 5:08… watch again as he references the “circle” as “just slightly larger than a rabbits head.” - not the square.
😆Killer rabbit!
Man eater!
@@bobcasteel7811 No. watch again. He said the circle was only a little bit bigger than a rabbits head. That’s exactly what he said.
Thank you sir, great work. I have a Tikka .22, but I do use the exact same ammo (also suppressed), and I really like it. Your work confirmed everything I’ve been looking at doing. Again, thank you!
welcome
Sub-sonic 22 LR are great for being quiet (esp with a sound moderator) but they are very susceptible to changes in distance, uphill or wind. If zeroed at 50m, a typical 22 sub-sonic will drop by 1/2" to 1" at 75/80m and a little more by 100m. You can use the mil-dots on the reticle if you have them, usually aiming a mil-dot below the crosshairs will help compensate for shooting out to 80m.
Most of my .22 shooting is Precision Rifle, to distances up to 500 yards, so my zero is different. Our closest target is match heads at 25 yards, so that's my POA and POI for all rifles I shoot (others may do differently). Once there, every following distance is aimed according to my balistics calculator (Strelok), which will calculate MOA or Mil, depending on which rifle I'm shooting. From 25 to 100, my Mil is just under 7 inches (6.95), so I up two clicks and there I am. Some day I may go back to hunting (77 now) and could possibly use your target size for zeroing. Nice rifle, good shooting, my Friend. Thanks for the chat.
I did enjoy this, its a new way to look at Zeroing in my .22 LR.
Glad you liked it.
If it's done right the bullet will cross the "sight" setting twice, and your targets do demonstrate this
---you are not sighted in at 50 yards however
---you are sighted at 25 yards with the bullet trajectory still rising, being a half inch or so high at 50 yards and may still rise another 1/4 inch or so before dropping back to a second true siting distance around 75 yards and ending up just a bit low at 100 yards
---the "never over or under" x amount can be enhanced by having a higher mounted scope than a super low mounted scope
---I had a combination where the first intersection was a 22.5 yards and it gave me a one inch high to one inch low all the way out to 110 yards
---which is also dependent on the ammo used and barrel length
---so there is a lot of fun experimenting with this
thank you for explaining it so well for him and others who didn't realize.
why do you claim this? With a high powered gun and scope the projectile set to slightly rise up to and thru the vis line of the scope above the barrel, then to settle back down thru that same vis line as the projectile starts it drop... at 2 points the round goes right thru the horizontal like of the scope center...@Yettiattack
@Yettiattack you are totally correct, the round never rises. It is only the sight picture that gives this impression and the ballistics is misunderstood .
@Yettiattack Fantastic explanation
I suppose that is one perspective & maybe used for some reason in the industry... but it is flawed. The trajectory for reference, that matters most, & starting point, is the direct path as viewed thru the scope. This is the stage that defines this whole process.... so a better perspective is seeing how the barrel is adjusted up to and thru the line of view of the scope before descending back thru this primary reference trajectory as it continues to drop. So while the bullet does drop as soon as it leaves the barrel, it drops on an upward trajectory initially, to meet the primary line of sight trajectory. @Yettiattack
I agree also with the sub sonic stuff too…got a 77/22 as all weather with modified trigger and it loves the stuff… don’t like all the flyers with hyper ammo…👍🏼
Haven't used hyper ammo for years,there's a reason subsonic outsells all other types of ammo.
I have that exact rifle but with the wood stock and agree entirely with you re those CI subsonics (1076fps) hollow points. I cannot believe how accurate this set up is. So glad someone else says the same.
They're deadly..
Great video George, thanks and greetings from New Zealand in Down Under.
Glad you enjoyed it
If you turn the target 45 degrees you can cut the corners of the square with the cross hairs.
Excellent idea..
And if you don't have the target at a perfect forty five degree angle, you'll be canting your rifle to do that
@@robertdahle7216 Two suggestions: level or a plumb line.
Sir, Absolutely Brilliant !!! I haven't shot competition iron sights in near 50 years but still so "programed" to aim at round targets. The application of your idea changes my entire view of zeroing a scope sighted rifle (diamonds within diamonds) as I'm about to enter the ,22 Silhouette game. How coincident that I should nail your 22nd thumbs up! May all your shots be true!
Gotta luv an accuracy test out the truck window, now that’s real world field position for most!
Thanks for this video. For an even better sight picture, rotate the square 90 degrees and put the crosshairs on the intersection of the lines making the four sides.
Great tip!
I must not understand your point. If you rotate the square 90 degrees, wouldn’t that be the “same” square image?
@@brentgilbert4208 You are correct! I meant 45 degrees.
Excellent idea.
If you rotate the paper 90 degrees you will be looking at a profile ...180 degrees would have you looking at the back of the original square....right????
45 degrees will just oblique the paper
The first thing I do with a new .22 rifle is to find an ammo that places shots consistantly. After that , sight in range is a matter of personal preference. I have one of mine that groups C.C.I. Quiet rounds very consistantly at 100 yards
Nice
Yesterday I sighted in my 22LR to shoot a 5-shot group that measured 0.5" across the widest point. 👍
@@tim7052😮
For his shorter ranges with slower ammo, not a bad suggestion. For typical 1240 fps ammo I suggest 1 inch high at 50yds. Your POI won't blow out your POA and your actual zero will be moved out to ~73 yds, ~3" low at 100yds which is a convenient 1 mildot (mil radian).
Yep.
Australia
About right.. but I away had mind dead on at 25 yards
This is exactly the information which I was seeking, thank you.
You're very welcome
This is just my philosophy but: I see 50 yards for standard/subsonic velocity and high velocity - 75 yards for MiniMags and most hyper velocity out to 100. It pretty well just boils down to how far you want to do it but you have better, flatter trajectory with higher velocities at farther ranges.
All true.
Problem with the hyper stuff is that rifles often don't shoot it well enough to group very well @ 100 yds...
@@jimsatterfield8748 That's where I see them for better pest control of larger things. I would rather hit a bobcat at 100yds than try for a squirrel at that same distance. lol.
36 yd...
I would agree with that. Both from a power perspective and being able to hit a 2" circle.
Unfortunately the Hyper velocity stuff using the lighter weight bullets (like 30 grains), I'd still max them out at 75 yards.
Their best use is for 50 yards on tougher game (that most use the 22 magnum for. 22 magnums probably are best at 100 yards and under).
That's MY experience with hunting with .22 rifles for about 50 some years.
Use 25 yds as the bullet is known to cross the same height of the arc at 75 yds and will be about 0.5 inch high at 50 yds and same about 0.5 low at 100yds.
I like your simple no frills style and budget targets for zeroing. Those 50 and 100 yards results were very impressive and will get the job done, not sure about the 25 yarder, that one must have been a flyer which we get from time to time.
Just imagine how much that stray bullet would be off at 100 yards.
In my humble opinion you have just about the best set up for small game hunting there, gotta love a CZ.👍
Thanks for the visit.
Thank you for taking time to help folk awesome brother
No problem 👍
I still have a Marlin 99 which preceded the Marlin 60 and is a tubular fed .22, topped with a 6 X Weaver scope. This rifle will routinely hit 1 /2 to 1 inch targets at 50 yards. Not sure what it is capable of at longer distances. Ammo used is typically CCI or Winchester high velocity
Give it a go with subs and let us know how it goes.
Same with my Mod. 60.
The marlin are hard to beat ! Have a 99 m1. Carbine marlin a little other half inch at 30 yard ! Great little 22 cal.
I have a 39a lever action and can put squirrels eye out at 75 yards on a rest over and over.
@@brucevolk9729 me too. With either the 39A or 39M.
Use to love a night or two on the rabbit control with the 22lr. Ricochet's can be a thing to watch out for. You're right. More so when the ground is so hard from the long hot dry summer days.
Keep up the good shooting great video
Many thanks.
I use 40 yards. With standard velocity ammo, the path of the bullet doesn't deviate from line of sight by more than 1/2 inch from 20-65 yards. I sight it this way because I use the gun primarily for squirrel hunting and these are the ranges that 99% of my shots are taken. Headshots only.
Great stuff..
@@springerspanielful A rifle is a tool. The idea is to select and modify it for the job. Great content, btw.
@@georgesakellaropoulos8162 Thank you..
I use 40 as well, but because I shoot out to 200 yards, and sometimes closer than 40, it means that when I lase and dial, I'm only ever dialing up. Close in is a dial up for height over bore. Farther out is dialing up for gravity. add 1.75moa and I get the 20/70 crossover everyone loves. Add a bit more I get 90 which is a shockingly useful mbpr. I lase and dial when I can, but I know a few different general hold zeroes and 40 yards as the base means they're all a few clicks up.
I enjoyed your presentation along with all the comments. I once received rifle instruction from a Marine named Carlos Hathcock.
Read several books on white feather.
Good stuff George great advice good for any young fella starting out, and some of us older blind fellas🤣🤣
Thanks 👍
in my experience, best zero range depends on intended use; for target shooters zero for target distance;
for plinking or small game, a zero range that keeps your bullet inside the vital area so it does not rise above or fall below where you want to strike. the load used in this video rises to within 1/2 inch of line of sight at 10 to 15 yards and falls below 1/2 inch at about 60 to 65 yards. according to nikon spot on ballistics calculator it should fall to almost 8 inches below line of sight at 100 yards. changing zero range to 75 yards yields a drop of 4 1/4 inches at 100 yards but at the cost of rising 1 1/2 inches or more between 30 and 55 yards. of course a ballistics calculator only provides a guideline; after using it to determine how a load should perform one should fire test shots at all ranges to confirm how the load behaves with your equipment.
hope it provides some insight.
I have never seen anyone do that with a 22LR. good job
Thank you.
Saw one that size once. I was with my friends on a quest, it was guarding a cave, fierce little bugger
Many years ago I set up a 22 for my brother to shoot bowling pins and I used a ballistic chart and he knocked down pins at 300 yards over and over.
Great shooting for sure.
I have an old Savage-Anschutz Model 10 with a scope. I've shot subsonic out of it at 200 yards. It hits consistently, but the holdover is ridiculous.
Now that is a proper Irish Beard Sir! ;) I sight my 22lr hunting rifles in, 1 inch high at 50 yards. I shoot CCI 40 grain HP Velocitors in a CZ Royal and CCI 36 grain HP mini-mags in a CZ Trainer. Both of these particular rifles handle the high velocity ammo very well, shoot very accurately.
I do shoot a lot of sub sonic through an CZ MTR, but also use high velocity ammunition through it as well, depending on the task. At 300 yards, it shoots Aguila extra high velocity 40 grain SP like expensive target ammo! It makes no sense, but rifles are a fickle thing at times aren't they? :)
Great video my friend! I can't count the number of ground squirrels and rock chucks that I've shot while sitting in my rig, along old country roads, or grouse along old logging roads.
A man that truly enjoys his rifles,best of Irish luck in the future.
I sight my .22lr in at 50-60 yds., then by setting a "kill zone" for whatever varmint is on the agenda, you can find the MPBR. Maximum Point Blank Range, a long bit of terminology to designate the distance where you don't have to change your hold to attain target termination. Small game would have a small kill-zone, large game larger, if desired. You just demonstrated a sufficient MPBR with the 50yd zero. My .223 varmint rifle is zeroed at 200yd, that keeps the grouping within 3" kill-zone out to 225yds. 1-1/2" high at roughly 100yd, 1-1/2 low at 225yds. A larger kill-zone stretches out the MPBR, obviously.
This is my favourite small game ammo by far.
And mine..
I must say, I do enjoy the pronunciation and accent. My family lived in 'the North' from roughly the 13th Century on (my branch immigrated to the New World prior to the Revolution).
Carefully examining the three targets - excellent procedure and great shooting, by the way - the fifty yard target (group) somewhat sits to the left. Within the square and quite tight, but a bit to the left. The one-hundred yard target should magnify that a bit, and it does. No great shock. The twenty-five yard group is well centered, but any windage effects are mitigated at such close range.
I envy you your rifle. I wanted a CZ 457 in .22 long rifle, but could not get one due to the COVID panic. I did find a Zastava .22 rifle, topped it with with a suitable scope and sighted it in. I adjusted it to impact a 50 meter - ? - target about an inch high. So the trajectory is much like yours. My rifle also likes CCI ammunition, but the copper washed "AR' product.
Excellent video, sir. You were clear in thinking and easy to follow. I wish more who make similar videos were as straightforward and knowledgable as you.
Thank you for your positivity,best of Irish luck to you.
20 morons have told you it's illegal to do that in America...not one American has commented that your steering wheel is also in an "illegal place" in America. Guess what people, he's not in America, and likely doesn't care.
LOL..
Can’t shoot out of a motor vehicle in Canada as well. You can’t even lean a loaded weapon against a vehicle.
Hum. I was
trained. 3 shots, one hole!!
And who gives a 🐀 ass🥴
As a Disabled hunter it is 100% Leagal to hunt from a car, depending on the state you have to be 30 feet from the road, unfinished roads gravel dirt or grass just off the tire ruts
Well pretty simple: from the bedroom window to the birdfeeder, about 40'. Aguila 60gr sniper sub-sonic, out of a beat up high standard pump, w/a crappy, no-light gathering scope (cuz i can't find 30mm rings that will grab that teeny-tiny receiver groove), that is a tack driver, & the 60 grainers absolutely hammer marauding skirrels! 😀
In the right hands seemingly average equipment can perform.
@@springerspanielful hey, my wife tells me that all the time!😄
You're fortunate to be able to shoot in your back yard. I'm a city dweller and I'd get arrested if I did what you do.
Be safe and in good health.
@@wisdomseeker4898 Some wisdom right there....lol.
@@tyronekim3506 I am indeed,the countryside is my therapy.
With my air riffles I put a target at every 10 yards and mapped the trajectory. - out to 60 yards.
Transferred it onto graph paper and plotted the trajectory curve.
I then put a straight line along the curve such that I could be as close to it as I could.
This gave me a zero of 43 yards.
The advantage of this was that at other ranges either side of 43 yards the deviation of point of impact would be a very small distance above or below the cross hairs.
Sounds like your man there has done a very similar thing.
Most folk would zero an air riffle at 25 yards meaning they’d have quite a drop at 40.
All I’ve done is taken ‘a line of best fit’ which we’ve all done on graphs at school.
Hello George
My Irish ancestors came to the Colony's (Georgia) prior to the revolution and being raised in the south I have been enjoying shooting and hunting for 70 of my 75 years. Never used .22 subsonic but with my favorite rifle, Marlin 880 SQ and CCI .22 long rifle MiniMags at. 25 yards I can often get a three shot clover leaf . Took some effort to find which brand and loading of 22 my rifle liked best.
Enjoyed the post looking forward to seeing more we say here in the South Y'all come see us sometime!
If you ever come to the Emerald Isle give me a shout,best of Irish luck to you sir.
Good video. Straight and to the point. Love the accent and the beard too!
Many thanks Steve..
Do anyone of you remember Winchester Laser .22 ammo? 37 grains high velocity silver case. It was accurate and deadly. Several friends noticed this and so did I. Made in Australia, it cannot be got now. RSW was good ammo, but can't be got now easily. They made small CB Flobert ammo with a round ball deadly on rats in the barns. Eley subsonic is a very accurate round and Tenex is very accurate. The head space of the rim is slightly less than American brands.
Shot thousands of rabbits with Winchester lasers, super ammo, never a misfire.
@@springerspanielful I and a few others reckon it was the best ammo of all. Why did they stop making it?
@@ValMartinIreland That's a question for Winchester I think.
@@springerspanielful They were actually better for hunting than Stinger. 37 grains with chrome plated cases. CCI are OK but not exceptional. RWS was great ammo.
@@ValMartinIreland RWS,good but expensive.
Good video, short and straight to the point
Appreciated.
If you've got rabbits with heads as near as big as the circle, you've got problems. LOL Must be a 100lb rabbit.
They grow big around here..
Sir i have a cz 455 thumbhole varmint i love the rifle. Thinking about getting a .22 wm barrel and magazine or kit. Its nice to see how enthuesiastic you are. Man keep it going. Thumbs up. by the way forgive me my english.
Thanks.
@@springerspanielful Why thank me. I am at the Same level of liking the old cz 455. Never thank me sir. Its just the joy of shooting this rifle. It was my first rifle with an optisan vortex viper on it 4x16 it is a joy so i know how you feel sir. My respects you have.
In general, it seems that slower ammo shoots tighter groups than faster ammo. The old timers used to shoot shorts for accuracy. Those would have a similar velocity as sub sonics. The holy grail of 22 ammo and gun combinations would be one that never shoots a flyer with hypersonic ammo.
Really like the subsonics.
Anything over 1250 FPS shoots flyers in my guns. I stick with slower velocities. I see CCI has a round out that is over 1600 FPS. I might buy a box just to see how bad they are.
I've participated in a few indoor bench rest competitions @ 30 yards with bolt action iron sight rifles using range issued .22 Shorts and the main problem was too many shots in or near the bullseye to accurately score the target.
@@michaelvrooman5681 - I believe you are meaning CCI "Stingers" and my 2 cents - they aren't very good - I have shot them out of a variety of guns, never was impressed, same goes for the Yellow Jackets (Remington, I think and are around 1500ish FPS), speed doesn't mean better with .22s. Best accuracy is sub-sonics, 1260FPS stuff shoots really well in all my CZ's. What gun are you using? Cheers...
@@irishkelly654 I have several .22s a Savage MK-II. A savage " minimizer" a Henry lever and a Hatsan Escort , which is aCZ clone
Interesting topic, the humble .22lR. I love my .22's, I don't love the fact that they all prefer different ammo but that's a .22 for you.
As has been mentioned previously in the comments, the Zero distance is a matter of preference ammo and target type.
Just to add my little bit. One of my .22's is used for silhouette out to 200yds with a 45 yd sight-in, I use a Sightron SIII 8-36x56 scope and I dial the scope for each distance using a range finder, this rifle likes SK Std plus ammo with a 40gn bullet traveling at 1073fps,
While my go to hunting .22 has a Bushnell elite 3-9x40 scope and is zeroed at 72yds which gives that rifle a 2" kill zone from 19yds out to 83yds (MPBR) with a 36gn bullet travelling at 1260fps, all I need to do is hold the x-hair on the target. Out past 83yds you are using hold overs.
Nice video, thanks
Interesting, thanks.
I zero at the range I wish to hit things at and this probably varies man to man. I normally restrict my 22RF shooting to maximum 60yrds and anyhting over that I move to the 17HMR to do the job.
I have a n Airmax scope which has a super reticule and I know exactly where each dot will kill at out to 60 yrds.
Excellent
I haven't hunted rabbits in years. I shot many of them when I was younger. All my friends thought I was crazy because I didn't use a .410 shotgun. I used my first gun - a Winchester Model 1890 in .22 WRF (some call it .22 Special). I still have that - rifle slide action, tube fed, open sights. But it is retired now. I have several .22LR revolvers, pistols, and rifles. I have almost bought a CZ 452 a couple of times. I often kick myself for passing on those guns. Thank you for this great presentation. I would probably zero at 40 yards rather than 50. But my distance shot would be a little closer.
Thanks for the positivity.
Winchester made the WRF, Remington brought out the Remington special as competition. Basically interchangeable.Have both. Keep shooting your rifle
Try using Redfield sight-in targets. They are cheap relative to ammunition costs. The big bars can be used to align your rifle precisely for each shot. The amount of florescent bar on each side of the crosshairs gives you very repeatable rifle alignment for each shot. That repeat alignment makes zeroing much easier.
Will check them out.
I use allen targets that splat when you shoot them. I can adjust my sights without walking 50 or 100 yards after every group. Maybe I am. A little lazy.😁
@michael vrooman I may be more lazy, I staple up targets 3 or 4 at a time and have a spotting scope on a tripod.
@@nhwnhw02 my problem is poor vision. Most of my rifles have scopes and the couple that have open sights my gun dealer put Hi Vis sights on. That is why I like the bright colored splatter targets also..I skip the spotting scope and crank my rifle scope up to 9x to veiw my groups. Each to thier own I guess. 🤔
@michael vrooman can relate to the vision thing. Was super nearsighted for 50+ yeats. Then for cataract surgery went the other way. Can't see closeup but really cheap reading glasses are perfect. A #1 for iron sights allows me to pickup front sight and still see target. Was sighting so hardware yesterday and had to change glasses to adjust scope correctly. Didn't notice at first that tiny print said 1/2 moa, I just assumed it would be 1/4 moa. Then later went up instead of down due again to small print. Something I really value now is any scope with an illuminated dot at the junction of the crosshairs.
First time watcher, just subbed.
Welcome aboard.
can't decide to give a "thumbs up" for his beard...his accent or using the mirror as a bench rest.
All three maybe.
Loved the advice of using a square target to zero your rifle.
Glad it was helpful.
i have always drew 1 inch squares on my target paper. it is just so much easier measuring square vs round. and no i do not actually measure them. i know what an inch is.
You zero at 25 and you'll be zeroed again at 60 yards, and only about 1/2 inch high at 50 yards. In fact you'll drop only about 1/2 inch all the way to about 75 yards.
Good advice
CZ455 Varnint with CCI Standard Velocity.
16 / 65 yd = 0
25 yd = +5/8" (Sight In)
40 yd = +1"
75 yd = -1"
I typically sight it in on the 25 yard pistol range.
Well done with no BS!
Thanks pal.
Good choice with the CZ455. It's my favourite gun of all.
Excellent rifle.
I've been using 27 yards to zero my rifles for over 60 years and never had a problem.
Whatever works for you,best of Irish luck.
27.3 for me))
Nicely manifested the close range shots, love your way of calibration.Thanks sir.
My pleasure
Hi there George, we've got a couple of. 22 rifles, a really old 10/22 ruger and a nice Thompson Centre elite, both semi auto. Used only for smaller game (rabbits and hare's) both scoped. Accuracy for both definitely is dependent on the ammo, fortunately they both shoot cci subs extremely well. I've been sighting in at 50 yards for over 40 years and this has worked well for me in. 22.
On the odd occasion when I've had to use other ammunition the accuracy has not been comparable and other problems appear, such as jamming, never happens with the cci though, and both actions are kept in as new condition.
Good video mate, by the way here in nz it's illegal to discharge a firearm from a vehicle, but don't tell the deer cause my wing mirror is the perfect rest for my 270 browning 😏
CCI is my firm favourite,thanks for your input and good luck with the deer.
Illegal in the US to hunt from a vehicle as well
I tried several semi auto .22 and I never could get them to reload reliably. Those that did reload skimmed lead from the bullets which damaged accuracy. I had a BSA and a CZ and had friends with other makes and none reloaded every time. How do you find the 10/22 and Thompson Centre ?
@@ValMartinIreland I've had an identical experience with semi autos,there's always a problem of some kind,misfires,failure to cycle,fussy re ammo.Can't beat the tried and trusted bolt action.
@@Sheepdog1314 Not in Texas. It's not legal to shoot from or across a public road. But if you're on private land you can shoot from a vehicle.
A sun roof is just as much fun too! I also sight in at 50 yrds for a .22!!
I must cut one out of the roof.
Haven't been shooting long didn't know different ammo different results, I have Savage arms model 64a semiautomatic it just sprays subsonic but mini-mag is 10 rounds 3" circle at 100 yrds fast as I can pull the trigger
Not a big fan of semi autos,in my experience they are not as inherently accurate and consistent as a bolt action,also they tend to be fussy re ammo,and misfire more often.
@@springerspanielful I agree, very few semi-automatics can compete for accuracy with a good quality bolt action. The only one I've come across was a Beretta, but that was over 40 years ago and I don't remember the model. The problem with using low velocity ammo in a s/a is that it may not have enough power to cycle the action consistently. If you're firing shots as fast as you can pull the trigger, you're going to warm the barrel up. It won't be as noticeable as with a centerfire, but it's still enough to destroy accuracy.
@@allenjenkins7947 All true.
do the same with LR and see what happens cb shorts or CCI brand of shorts they are only good for 710 FPS which is not bad but not great either for long range , and you will also get tigher groups with regular LR rounds as well at the same ranges
This kind of zeroing is usually termed “point blank range.”
Yes indeed.
I like using the square as your bullseye, but positioning it as a diamond makes it even easier to ensure proper crosshair alignment.
Great idea,every day is a school day.
True story!!!
I sight my twenty-twos at less than twenty yards from the shoulder as I would hunt, and attempt to place three shots in an extremely close group. (single hole). A rifle bullet travels in an arc and passes the same point at two distances close and far. Missing a target at extreme range is caused more often by the shooter than the firearm/sights. Windage is more important than trajectory in sight adjustment I have hunted with a twenty-two for sixty-five years and my sighting method has served me well.
All good stuff.
Never ever zero a rifle irrespective of the sights used unless the day is completely calm. No wind.
@@ValMartinIreland - true that!
@@ValMartinIreland I noticed that plate was being buffeted a bit... not good
I agree with your finding, I have my Tikka T1X zeroed at 50 yards and the grouping at 25 yards is similar to the result you have.
Its impossible for any .22 lr cartridge to hit pretty much in the same spot at 25, 50 and 100 yards without holding either extremely high or low on the target. If this guy says he is aiming dead center at all 3 distances , hes not telling the truth since all 9 shots hit within 1 inch of each other vertically and thats not possible. When sighted in at 50 yards, that round will hit 6 inches low at 100 yards.
Especially with subsonic ammo, which has a steeper trajectory. If he is indeed aiming at the centre dot each time, that rifle is zeroed at 25 yds.
His 50 yd shots are higher, which demonstrates that the round is still climbing due to the short zero, and the 100 yards are dropping down to the "second zero" distance again. There seems to be some confusion over "zero" and "group". I suppose the rabbits still feel the same way about it.
Iron sights, both eyes open. Always sighted in, over many distances
You dont know how to use your sights, then. There is a thing called adjustable elevation.
@@sport07-o2l Did the same when I had the eyesight,long may your sharp eyesight last.
I find that zeroed in at 50yds makes my rounds hit between 5 and 7 inches low at a 100yds depending on the ammo.
I like a dimond shape target, just take the square and turn it 45 degrees, on its side. I zeroed at 50 for along time but over time, found 75 the optimum zero point for .22 lr rifles, especially if your pushing out farther than 100.
Good idea and sound advice.
@@springerspanielful Right on, thanks for the video.😉😎👍
Always like to know others 💡 views. Great job❤.
I like the circle and use the 6 o'clock hold.
Thank you! Cheers!
Good to see someone else uses the CCI subs for rabbits. My BRNO model 2 is sighted at 75M and is inches low at 100M plus inches high at 30M so I might have to change my zero. Also I am having stabilization problems from 30M to 100M. I'll try your sighting and see if at least the trajectory improves. Thank you.
Let us know how it goes,good luck.
John W - What did you find out? What distance did you go for your first zero? I have to ask, what do you mean by "Also I am having stabilization problems from 30M to 100M."? I don't understand? If you are using sub sonics (and fact that they don't go super sonic) there shouldn't be issues with bullet stability. Any .22 round going faster than the speed of sound goes super sonic and comes out of super sonic, as it slows - this is where instability happens. That is the entire purpose for using subs, they tend to be more accurate because of that fact. Cheers...
@@irishkelly654 The projectiles are hitting the target sideways, that is what I mean by stabilization problems. I live in a fairly built up area and noise is an issue so I use subs to keep the neighbours happy... about 250M on either side of us. My rifle is still zeroed at 70M because that's the distance I get most of my rabbits at and at 30M I'm hitting 40mm high and at 100M about the same below the aiming point. Due to the stabilization issues there have been many times where I know I have done my part but the ammunition has caused a clean miss. My field of fire is limited by the location of neighbours and their outbuildings so I have to stick to the subs. Actually a .17 would be safer to shoot but try telling that to people who are unfamiliar with firearms.
@@JohnWilliams-iw6oq - Thanks for the reply...I do believe the term is called keyholing. Does it do it with all ammo or only a certain kind? You may have barrel issues, worn or a bad crown?? I had a .17 HMR do this to me and a CZ 452 Varmint to boot...had to re-barrel. I had not heard the term until it happened to me. Best of luck to you, cheers.
@@JohnWilliams-iw6oq - forgot to add...I also think a .17 HMR would safer, those little pills are so fast they tend to disintegrate upon impact rather than ricochet, like.22's tend to do.
I can understand using subsonic to take advantage of the can or shooting in the back yard ,otherwise standard rounds like the stinger perform much better
If you zero at 25 yds, this is the first intersection of bullet and line of sight, the rifle will be also zeroed at 70 yds. (Second intersection). This is obviously a rule of thumb only.
50 yards is mine too...awesome explanation to what your prey/target is. Nice!
Thanks 👍
Never had a misfire? I don't believe it. I have had Remington .22LRs misfire in every .22 I own, sometimes as many as four or five per hundred rounds. However, CCIs are more reliable.
Don't use Remington ammunition,hence no misfires.
I stopped buying Remington because they are inconsistant. I have one savage that misfires about 1 of every 10 of the cheaper CCIs but I think the gun is the problem. Not the Ammo
Easily believable, shot 2000 rd of CCI mini mags and never had a misfire
Remington make horrible 22 ammo
You need to clean the bolt mechanism of your rifle.
@@geraldtakala1721 probably true. The gun was very slightly used when I bought it.
Good video! I have the CZ 452 heavy barrel varminter. Had it just over 20 years I think and bought it new. In the field I use Winchester subs 42 gr and CCI Velocitors.
Great ammo.
shoots rabbits from “zero to 100 yards”. Zero? 😢
I reckon “zero” in this instance equals a couple feet, inches or less.
Speaking of yards, 1 yard equals 3’. Therefore anything less than 3’ is “zero.”
@@andrewbeaupre1867 I don’t know. 18” and higher round up to 1 yard. I don’t think i could live with myself if I shot a rabbit from that distance 😁
👍😂
The army zeros all small arms at 100 meters (39.5). 308/ 7.62x51 M-14, M-16. fireing at a 2 INCH square .WE zerowed the 90mm on m60 tanks H.E at 1000 meters.
In 1964 we zeroed our M14s at 25 yards. After that, all range shooting was done with "dial up/down" to 500 yards.
I always use sub-sonics 40 grain bullets.......but zeroed at 50 yards the bullet drop is around 6 inches out to 100 yards. 50 yard zero two inches drop at 75 yards....... 6 inch drop at 100.... 14 inch drop at 125 yards. At 125 yards can still hit a walnut !
I like your procedure in grouping the shots 👍
Glad you like it
You said you have a bushel on it lol that’s all I need to watch!
Agreed 100% 50/25 are same 100 -4” is pretty ideal
Optimum sight in range
Depends on your use.
Use a trajectory calculator to begin - not a bad place to start IMO
You need
Velocity(actual in your rifle, not the manufacturers claim)
weight and Ballistic Coefficient of the bullet.
CCI 40gr 1070fps / BC = 0.123
.
Of course IMO it's best to have the flattest trajectory(least hold over/under) over the useful range, for your intended use.
I have a CZ 457 with a variable power Vortex scope, the rifle is zeroed at 50 yds then I just use my turrets on the scope to adjust for distance out to 300 yds its all pretty darned simple, I feel I have everything I am using this rifle for covered.
Good stuff.
There can be a lot of variables (height of scope mount, ammunition (speed)) which affect trajectory arc for any given zero, but the "good 'ol faithful" standard for a 22 was / (still is?) 25yd zero = inch high at 50yds = 75yds zero = 4 inches low at 100yds (and 10 inches low at 125 yds). I've never seen a reason to deviate from that - unless zeroing for the exact distance you're shooting at :)
That zero is it on the way up the way down or just touching the arc
Fun video thank you and I have never seen shooting over a car mirror before but that is fantastic!
Glad you liked it.
Thank you for the video. I shoot league at 17 yards indoors. So those firearms i zero at that . For my larger firearms, 308 and 7.62x39 i zero at 25 yards, indoors. That puts me close at 100 yards. Most of my shooting is indoors where i live. It is a hour plus drive for outdoor ranges.
For sighting my cz 457 mtr i use a solid bench and a leadsled, this has got to be better than a car window and rear view mirror. I sight my rifle in 3 inches low at 100 yrds that way it is 3 inches high at 50 yrds. as for target i use printer paper then dab it with a red bingo dabber, it is about 1 inch. Easy,cheap and simple
Good stufff.
Thank you. I shoot two Marlin .22 semi-auto rifles. One I turned into a bullpup version for hiking since I lost my left leg and kept the second as it is because it is made of stainless steel and nickel plated and the gun was made in Huntsville, Alabama and has a very beautiful stock so I put a very powerful scope on it. The other Marlin was manufactured in the original Connecticut factory but I rebuilt the rifle because the action was worn out and tuned it into a bullpup with the action behind the trigger with a lever back to the firing mechanism that works very well for me. Any way I appreciate this video for how you zero your rifle. Have a good 2023 and 2024 coming up. I shoot Winchester 40 grain hollow point ammunition mainly in my rifles because t hey seem to like those bullets the best in the action and that is due to the way the shell casing is made and catches the lever wire that moves the bullet out of the tube to the barrel for firing the semi-automatic rifles. I usually never miss unless it is really windy or bad weather with the Marlins. Any way thank you very much for the video on how you zero. I use a gun mount to xero my rifles on a table and can zero in two shots. One I shoot and bullet hits the target and then I just adjust the scope to where the bullet hole is and I'm done with getting the rifle zero perfect and works well for me with the gun in a gun mount that is very secure keeping the gun from moving and being semi automatic I don't have to worry with accidentally moving the gun to zero with a bolt lever to reload...which is nice... just pull the trigger after taking it off safety. Any way thanks and wish you and those that watch your videos the best.
Nice job, straight to the point on most issues and equipment. I shoot a ruger 10-22 with a scope for squirrels and I am going to need to change my scope and setup as its not dialed in properly and the scope is so crappy it justifys my poor shooting ,, I can shoot perfect 1/2 inch at about 30 yds = 29 meters, and its not even close on at 50 yds,
Question from a greenhorn. If you zero the rifle at 100 yards, is the group not even better at 50 yards?
That’s good shooting !! CCI MINI MAGS from my bolt action rifle does produce 3/16” groups @50 yds!! With one smaller group of 1/8” center to center!!
Nice shooting.
Well done and explained, Cz should send you rifle for the video sells the product .the proof be on the target !
Any chance you'd contact them on my behalf? I'd appreciate it.
I'll give it a shot , no joking !
nevermind if a rabbit has a head as large as a grapefruit… i loved your video and it was very interesting. i’m sure you shoot better than the commenter who said you’d better run. i gave your video a 👍
Many thanks
Buenos disparos, con ésa joya de CZ, la respiración parece haberte traicionado a 25 yardas. Ya que te gusta la caza, como a mí, en especial las liebres hasta distancias de 250 yardas, te recomiendo muy encarecidamente que pruebes el nuevo proyectil XTREME calibre 22 de la Fábrica Norman de 43 grains y 1.169 pies por segundo. Lo bueno está en la parte de atrás de la bala, a la que se le ha agregado un cono invertido, cola de cohete, con el puedes disparar a 300 yardas con buena precisión. Increíblemente este proyectil teóricamente podría golpear un blanco de 12" a 600 yardas. También es muy efectivo en la caza de presas más grande, con disparos quirúrgicos. Saludos y buena caza, que siempre sea un ARTE conservacionista, que heredamos de Nuestra propia condición de Hombres.-
If your rifle is zeroed at 50 yards whey are they hitting dead center at 25 yards?
Exactly.. something isn't right
Good video great info well spoken easy to understand thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Outstanding video. Informative and entertaining.
Much appreciated!