Fiberglass Boat Repair~ There's A Hole In My Boat Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 15 мар 2013
- *** CHECK OUT OUR NEW FIBERGLASS GUIDE HERE: tinyurl.com/ycyaffxq
www.boatworkstoday.com This is the last video of a 3 part series outlining how to repair structural damage to your fiberglass boat. Make sure to watch all 3 episodes in order!! These videos are leading into the gelcoat series which is coming very soon. Please remember to give a thumbs up, subscribe, like and share (That's a LOT of stuff to do, but it's worth it :-)
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Thank you so much! 7yrs later and your video is still helping the diy man
I feel like I wandered into a free lecture by the master of boat maintenance and repair. I wish I had watched these particular videos on fiberglass repair, I would have saved a lot of money. Now to order Andy’s ebook so I can see what else I missed.
Hey Colin, the glass order is something that's typically a little confusing. I've also seen people that start with the largest patch first, but it never made any sense to me. The strength of the repair is only as good as the bond of that first layer.
By starting small and working larger, each layer is tabbing onto the solid area around the repair. If all the glass is laminated without having to sand, there's a chemical bond between all the layers. Seems like a stronger approach to me :-)
Restoring my '74 Catalina 27-great vids on fibreglass repair-you've got it dialed in!
You are a good teacher. Thank you for taking the time to teach me. I just had a small fiberglass boat given to me that needs some glass repair but after this 3 part series I feel very confident I can make it look nice. I just subscribed too!
Great information. Interesting and informative. I am working on a boat deck repair after fuel tank replacement and your videos have been most helpful.
Andy! your awesome thank you for taking your time to help teach us ways to better repair our boats!
Thank you for taking the time to do these! new boat owner here( fixer upper). one damaged spot turned into three and they wanted 3700 for the whole deal. Gonna give it a shot myself.
For glass layup, I almost always use poly. When thinking about what will be used for a finish coat (gelcoat or paint), if you will be using gelcoat, then poly based resins from start to finish are your only option. Gelcoat is a poly based product and polyester doesn't bond too well overtop epoxy.
However epoxy overtop of poly is fine.. If I will be painting, I'll still use poly for the glass layup and thickened epoxy for the fairing. Paint and epoxy like each other :-)
Fantastic. Thank you. I will use this technique on the floor of my 63 Vette. PVA tip is priceless.
Great videos, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with others. I have two boats that require some TLC and with your informative and instructional help, I am positive I can achieve great results.
Skookum as frig! i've been learning so much here. starting to feel a little more confident about my project.
just got me boat which i am going to do work on i thought i would have to get somebody in to do the fiberglass however your videos i have just watch really do break things down and very easy to follow the videos are very good for step by step instructions thankyou so much
Hey there, I have done a lot of fiberglass repairs and this guy is the guy to watch.
So glad you went over how to clean the fin roller. Thank you!
Andy, these films are perfect for a first time boat owner like myself. just bought a small glass fibre racing yacht with loads of battle scars with loads more yet to come. These films are making my boat repairs so much easier. When's the next edition coming????
currently rebuilding my second boat a mini 20ft eastporter outboard lobster boat. converting to full inbord diesel. its just an empty fiberglass hull with the shell of a cabin ontop and no keel. i want to thank you for all the important lessons you have taught me so far about fiberglass. i feel like i owe you some kind of consultation fee for all your videos iv watched.
Lots of questions answered, great man..
So I watched your videos over the last couple of years when I was working on my two small sunfish sailboats. It's great to watch and learn from a person who knows his craft. I purchased a Four Winns Horizon 180 this October which has been neglected and abused. I'm redoing the interior vinyl and the canvas work this winter. The last owner purchased a canvas top for the boat that was for a different boat and rather than utilizing the old snap points he decided to install more snaps. The boat looks like it has been BeDazzled and the snap he used were not stainless. Im removing the rusty snaps as part of my restoration and would need to fill the remaining 1/8"holes with resin and white gelcoat to match. I've been told that I could use epoxy to fill the holes because they are so small and top off with gelcoat. I'm concerned that I wont get a good bond. I have 20-25 holes to fill in. I'm thinking (new video). Please!
Thanks Andy, I had a less simple repair which turned out pretty good in the end. I also took on the gel coat on a 33ft half decker. My advice to viewers, don't! lol.
I seen on other videos they would lay the big layer of glass on first then work their way up to the smallest layer. I suppose it makes very little difference? Very well explained as always!
Great videos answered a lot of the detail stuff others skip.
Nice three parter Andy - Thanks.
Yup :-) That's exactly what these video's are intended for! Even though I am using a hole for the demonstration the same concept / process applies regardless if it's a crack, hole, etc..
Depends if we're talking about above or below the waterline. Below the waterline I'd go with epoxy as you'll probably be applying a bottom paint. Above the waterline depends on if you want to finish with gelcoat or paint. If the plan is to use gelcoat then you're stuck having to use poly. If you decide to paint then it really doesn't matter. I typically use poly for the glasswork and epoxy for the fairing when painting. Hope this helps!
Thanks so much for the videos! It iOS a great thing that you take the time to educate people like me. Do you have any videos on stringers or are you planning any videos?
Hey thanks a lot for all your knowledge... I bought pretty much everything you used in this playlist (the equivalent local products here in New Zealand), so just to confirm I can do all of my repairs with polyester resin on my boat and once the glas and resin is layed I just seal it with the PVA... I dont need anything else to make it cure? Really appreciate your time, Ive learnt so much... thanks
just bought a sprint 1990 FS for 500!
yamaha 115 precision. runs great. the problem is that the hull or the part of the bottom that comes to a point is cracked and rotten in sections. I bought it knowing this? so im not smart BUT.. i figured it would be fun to Fiberglass. the boat is in perfect condition besides this. so ive been researching and looking like crazy. alot of partial info then came you!!! thanks! im doing this on the boat trailer cuz i dont have no way to flip it. watching intentley
You did a great job explaining things, as always, but what are your thoughts about using a epoxy resin as opposed to a polyester resin? I ask because that's all I have lol
Nice job Flanders
ive been doing glass work for 20 years or so. mostly all structure, and no finishing work, going to do some cosmetic on my boat and was watching to see if I could learn some new tricks. very good videos even for someone who knows how to laminate. i just wanted to throw out a tip if your bubble buster roller kicks off, how to free/clean it. if you use a cutting torch, or propane torch, run the fire all around the kicked resin. if using a cutting torch DO NOT use the oxegen trigger, just let the fire burn the resin DO NOT breath the smoke. once the resin is burning on its own, let it burn itself out. what resin is let will just flake/fall off and you will be able to remove the roller from the frame and get it cleaned. not very hard or time consuming. just don't breath smoke, its just as bad as the dust. hope this helps someone.
+Stand Marsh Good tip ;-) Never tried that! Thanks!
I've melted the screw once when doing this so yeah keep the flame moving, no direct flame for to long
One of mine had set solid before, I couldn't budge it , I tried heating it up and it come off easily.
Thanks. Excellent. WIll be of great help as I get my ship together!
Hi, I'm a first timer for fiberglassing and have watched many videos on how to repair structure problems, and yours is by far the most informative. I've undertaken a restoration project on an old, small sailboat and I'm wondering if it is actually possible/practical to use this method on a structure/impact crack that runs down the ridge of the boat's hull for about 1 and 3/4 feet? I'd much appreciate your advice. Thanks in advance!
This RUclips channel may be the best I've seen! The manner in which things are presented is just great. Straight forward with a bit of humor mixed in :)
Quick question: I have a repair where I can only get access to one side. It's a hole in the hull of small small boat, but it is for sure a structural problem. Is it OK to do a multiple layer layup like you did on both side but on one side? I was gonna tape a small backer to start, and then just layer it up. Do you have a video like this?
Great video, it makes it look so easy and I am about to do my first laminate to my damaged keel. They are recommending me to go with the polyester resin but you prefer epoxy. What will happen if I use polyester instead? Thanks.
Ok so I've watched your "there's a hole in my boat" video series time and time again. I really appreciate the knowledge that you give throughout your videos. So I've taken on a project of my own and that is repairing a decent size hole on the bottom side of a gheenoe. After some grinding and tapering I taped up the back side of the hole and using polyester resin WITHOUT wax I laid my first layer of chop strand, let it tack up and then removed my tape. The problem I'm experiencing is on the opposite side of the chop strand where the tape was placed it appears to have some air bubbles. Only in the area that had tape and none at all where the glass meets the hull. Being that it's the first layer of many would I be ok if I laid the rest of my layers down or should I grind it all back out and start over?
I'm using poly because the topcoat of the repair is going to be gelcoat (which is poly based). You're correct that epoxy will bond with almost anything but poly overtop of epoxy isn't a good idea. Since the gelcoat is poly based I am pretty much restricted to using poly based products throughout the entire repair process.
If I were painting the topcoat then I would more than like use epoxy for the fairing, but still use poly for the glasswork as it's a quicker turn-a-round time :-)
Hey Andy,
Very pleased to hear you are busy and your skills are over subscribed...... Enjoy the new baby when he/she arrives. I will check FB and link that way.
Take care dude.
Thanks for all the wonderful videos. I love to diy. I watched videos on replacing transom in Boston Whaler. Was interested in the video to glass in and apply gel coat. Is it available?
awesome!!
thanks a ton!!
Great videos and Very Helpful. Question on the hole in my boat video. I have a 16ft runabout with a 5 inch crack that goes all the way through the fiberglass. This crack sits just below the water line at the bow of the boat. Is the method demonstrated in the video one you would use to fix this situation? Thanks in advance.
Thanks for your video's, they are realy helpfull.
In my boat I need to fix a hole that I can reach from one side only. So it is not possible to remove the cardboard afterwards. You have a idea?
Hello boat works I meant to ask you about adding the amount of wax the gelcoat. Doing practice runs on 4X5 surface plywood
thank you for this video. I am going to try to fix some holes in a foreword hatch where the hardware for the hatch-stay went straight through. it goes through a ridge around the gutter for the drain. not a great design. It made a huge hole through this 1" 1 foot long ridge where the screw and washer went through all layers. I will have to repair some from underneath inside by muddy cabin, how do you lay this stuff up when gravity is not your friend? still a laminating resin? would I thicken it? tape over it? pre-wet it?
okay, newbie question... what's the longest you can go before laying the next layer of laminate? Cause if your doing a large project you aren't going to be able to do all the layers in the same day. thank you for your vids
Hi Great Videos! A Question. I have my 32' Columbia Sabe down to the bare hull now and am about to start all the fiberglass work. Do you recommend Epoxy or Polester Resin. Cost aside in your experiance in my place what would you use. I thank you in advance and watch all your Videos! Thank you so muc for posting.
Outstanding
Great video! However, I am attempting to repair a hole on the hull of my sunfish sailboat (roughly the same size as the hole addressed in these videos). I do not have access to the interior side of the hull so do you have any recommendations as to how I should support the inner side of the hole?
Thanks for your response. In regards to the stringers, it looks like Ii will be using poly resign because the expoxy is too expensive. Can you recommend a good brand of poly?
Im doing a tub floor...so i can i can only work from the top...it's got a 10 inch long crack...so would you suggest cutting out the crack?..(so i would n't be able to put something underneath) ..... what kind of fiberglass fabric would you suggest?...thanks for the videos very imformative
Hey Alex, Thanks for the kind words :-) In situations where I can only get to one side of the damage and for one reason or another is not practical to cut an access hole, I will increase the taper on the one side the full thickness of the laminate. So, rather than doing a 12:1 taper, I'll do more like an 18:1 taper since all the layup will only be on 1 side of the damage. By increasing the size of the taper you'll be able to have more layers of glass and a wider area to tab onto. Hope this hlps!
BoatworksToday but what about curing from only one side?
BoatworksToday if you cannot get to the inside how do you get the inside to cure
Thanks Steve :-) If I had time to work out scripts, someone to plan the various shots, run the camera & teleprompter, check lighting & sound I'm sure I could do a better job with presentation. Unfortunately I'm doing everything on the fly, solo, on top of running my business :-(
It is, what it is.. I do the best I can to relay the information and hope that it comes across. You should see how much actually gets edited out :-O
hi, curious why you would use laminating vs epoxy resin? in the other video you said that epoxy resin adds strength .
I am starting a boat that just needs freshening up. A few questions I have are mostly toward mixing products and Hardware. Where do you get your brushes that you're using this video? Do you clean them with acetone in between each application so that they don't turn to a fiberglass stiff plastic? Same thing The Mixing Bowl I notice that you throw the mixing wooden piece away do they have these at the local paint fiberglass door?
Can't really comment much on brands, but rather good sources. Are you in the US?
Hi. Firstly, thanks for a great set of video's. I have a question though. what is the maximum hole size (after prep) that this method would work?
really no limitations or restrictions. I've replaced entire bows this way :-)
This is a great series but I work on sailing dinghies a lot with repairs and I find it difficult to get a backing onto something where I can't remove it, e.g. a hole in the first layers of the hull, it's really tough (and sometime impossible) to get in there to get a backing on. Any advice?
What epoxy would you use below water line when you plan to use fairing compound. Thank you
most online composite places will carry this. Try express composites, or fiberglast :-) otherwise try doing a quick search online for pva and you might pull someone up close to where you live..
Good luck! post some pics on my FB page!
HELLO COILN, I could use some serious advice here; I have an RV with a fiberglass nose cap and rear cap; my issue is "SPIDER STRESS CRACKS; they are not very deep but they are all in one area12"x18" area; MY PLAN is to sand the area with 280 grit up to 400 grit; to remove the cracks/ prime with 2k primer and finish either with GELCOAT OR SINGLE-STAGE PAINT;
Hi.This three parter is the first of your videos that I've watched so you may have explained this somewhere else. Why polyester and not epoxy? I thought that epoxy sticks to everything buy polyester will only stick to polyester.
What are the advantages of poly (outside of cost)?
Thanks!
Would you use the 1708 when repairing a thin hull like a kayak ? appreciate If you could mention if there are any other issues/tips for thin hull repair . I learned a lot from watching these three videos - thanks.
Probably not 1708 for something that thin. Think I'd lean towards a 6 oz cloth :-)
Hi, i love your videos however im a bit lost when it comes to the glass fiber. Over here we use metric system and fiber is sold in different grams per square meter. I think many of your viewers would benefit from a run down of your most common glass fiber material and what a metric equivalent would be. Thanks!
Could you use epoxy resin on you last lay up instead of PVA?
Nothing on stringers yet, and as of now don't have something like that on the schedule. For the most part the topics that I cover in the vids are determined by the projects that come into the shop. If something like that does come in (which I'm sure it will) I'll be sure to record it :-)
I just bought a boat that has several repairs on the bottom that were not done very well. They are raised up off of the original hull. Do you have any ideas on how to smooth out the repairs or how to redo them?
Hi i have a question about a boat I recently. It has sat in the sun for a little while upside. down the gel coat is dried out would i be ok just sanding it and applying gel coat or put some sort of resin on it then gel coat.
I have a 10inch by 12 inch square hole in the bottom of my center console where a thief cut my transducer out. What would you recommend as a backer to start my first layer of glass? Will the tape work with that big of a whole?
Acetone is a harmful vapour if in sufficient quantity. Do you have a fan exhaust system etc?
can you use aoto body polyester filler over the repair area followed by. a finish refinish polyester glaze.2. CAn you paint over gell coat and clear with polyesterurethane..? and polish to high gloss shine
Thanks a lot for your videos! All great content. After watching others, can you explain why you didn't use an epoxy resin vs the polyester resin you used? Being structural wouldn't the epoxy resin make for a stronger finish? I know this video is almost 6 years old but taking a shot to see if this gets answered. Thanks
Aaaaaand nevermind..... you answered it in the next episode. Using gelcoat = no epoxy
Hey Colin how much wax agent do I add to my gel coat to mix?
Hi I noticed you like to lay your fiberglass small layers to big. Other people have said you get a better bond going the other way big to small because the larger patch has more to bite on the 12 to 1 taper. Have you found this to matter or is it negligible?
Would you still need that taper if you were planning to paint your boat rather than use gel coat? I'm assuming you would want to make it perfectly flush if you are going to use paint? Am I right?
Is there a way to get the water out of foam in the bottom of a boat without cutting it ali out and starting over? Thank you
I watched many fiberglass video repairs and this was the only one that grids down both sides of the structure. Can you tell me your reason for this approch as I didnt seem to understand it.
It's alcohol :-) A quick search for PVA release film will pull it up. PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol)
Would spray paint work in place of PVA?
Anytime there is a complete hole / failure of the fiberglass (specifically in an area of the boat that could make the difference between it staying afloat or going to the bottom) it's a standard to address both sides of the damage. If it were an area that was more of a cosmetic fix (glassing over an opening from an old display gauge or small access holes) then it can be done from one side only. Unfortunately most of the fiberglass vids do not go through the correct steps for making repairs :-)
What if you only have access to one side...how would you coat it with the air tight wax seal on the back side to have it cure properly? I would only be able fix this continuous 1/8 crack that follows an "interior" cabin entry/doorway...two sides are about 4 feet in length and bottom 3 feet in length...top is fine. I would guess this is structural stress damage on this old 78' O'day... I need it to be strong. Again, it's the interior only...the outside glass of the doorway is fine. HELP! :)
What you do if u can only access one side? Your videos are awesome
Cut a hole in damaged area
Boat surface `
Lip -
Hole _
Again that is
| |
`````--_______--`````
Where you see the | that is where you want to cut you spare material for a patch and from their shave a groove for the lip from`to-
Then epoxy your cut out and place fiberglass on both sides and then sand it once cured after that wet the lip and the interior cut out part with epoxy again and screw the cutout into the lip shaving of the boat -
/from their after it dries remove the screws add compound/cure/sand/compound/sand/until after you sand and you have a smooth surface of the compound/lightly sand six inches out of the restored area/,from their fiberglass the restored area plus one foot for extra strength/prime/paint/final finish/buff/DONE
NICE ! I learned something. I am looking at buying a sailboat that has been neglected for many years. I have a question about fiberglass boats. and that is,
short of a boat being crushed torn in half. ARE 99% OF DAMAGES REPARABLE ?
With glass, everything is able to be repaired providing you're willing to put the time and expense into it :-) Most of the time it makes sense; sometimes it doesn't..
I love your videos, but what scares me is that I get your sense of humor...!
1.5oz csm and 1708 Biaxial glass :-)
It be awesome if I can get a reply from anyone that knows how to do fiberglass repair I'm about to do a fiberglass repair on a Bayliner it ran aground and the impact area is where the blades are the pillars the structure that held the propeller one of them inside the boat and it's about a good 6 inch hole roughly how much would it cost just in materials to repair that boat
When you said to use the wax additive, would I use finishing wax? Also to fill in low spots without using putty would I be able to lay finishing WAx with or with out the cloth matting then slightly sand before applying paint?
The wax you'd use is called S-2 surfacing agent. It's a paraffin wax dissolved in styrene. If you have pin holes or low spots you'll need to use a fairing compound (either thickened epoxy if painting or Adtech p-14 if gelcoating). If they're larger areas then I'd build those areas up with more glass then continue through the fairing / finishing process.
or use finishing resin I use on my surfboard
Great videos, lots of useful info. What would your advice be for a large section of the Hull that has delamination? Basically there is quite a bit of deflection when you push on the Hull and this continues for most of the back half of the Hull. One suggestion I have had from a local boat repairer is to cover all the hull with another 4 to 5 layers of glass, is this something you would recommend? Thanks
Hey Kevin, try sending some pics to my FB page facebook.com/boatworkstoday
Unless there is visible damage there shouldn't be any need to add more glass. Some hulls are designed to flex. If you stiffen one area up too much you may run the risk of that stress transferring to other areas causing problems :-)
BoatworksToday
Hi Andy, thanks for the response, much appreciated will send some pics to your FB page. There are a couple of spots further forward on the hull that have visible damage that will also need attention however the hull around these parts does not flex like the rear of the hull. I have only recently got the boat so do not know much of its history, it looks like it has been taking water on for some time. If it has had water internally for a long time can this harm the glass? Also I have noticed that the ribs that start at the front do not run the full length of the hull and where they are tapered down the taper is different on either side, which could indicate it has had work done before.and maybe these used to run the full length of the hull but were removed when it was repaired...
On hulls that are designed to flex do they have the same amount of flex for the full length or can the front half be firmer than the rear?
Thanks again.
Kevin Brameld I'll have to wait for the pics to know for sure :-) Won't need many; probably 4-6
Maybe I missed it but I didn't see you fill in the hole at all...was I sleeping? Thanks for taking the time for these videos...we pick up a lot of know how from them.
It was in a different video before this one.. Here's the entire playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLV97GZkHhpHOKR_y03zg98Cxe6VLOq83B
So if you need repair a cored section, would it be very different from this.. like doing the outside, add new core and then do inside?
+MrZnarffy Exactly :-)
i have a 1978 35' Duffy that i lobster out of. I need to put a new hauling patch on. I have a hard nylon plastic hauling pad bolted on, but its obviously needs to come off with all the stress cracks straight through the pad. grinding down the holes isn't an option as like this. I have probably around 30-40 bolts holding the pad on. granted they are sealed with 5200 and im not leaking water. do you recommend something like kitty hair bondo to fill the bolt holes in then layer with glass over? i was thinking 2 layers of of matting and 2 layers of Kevlar.
This actually sounds more like you need some major backing plates on the underside of the bolts. 1/2" thick alum over- sized the diameter of the hauling pad? Other thing I'd look at is if there is any moisture in the deck that is compromising it's overall strength.
i should clarify the fiberglass hull doesn't have any stress cracks just the nylon pad. the hull is structurally sound. i don't believe there is any damage through the laminate of the hull. i just don't know how about approaching the bolts holes because there are so many. a few people have told me they make a marine bondo with resin and glass in it. its suppose to fuse with the hull and any glasswork done. i was thinking that route as a filler and layering it in and out for strength. thanks for replying =D
Great video. If you did not add the PVA (green) can you start laying glass the next morning? I am doing stringer work and do not think I can finish in day. Thanks.
Cyrus Erica Kliewer As long as you're using laminating resin, you can leave it for a few days and pick up where you left off without having to sand. If there is already wax added to the resin (some manufacturers will do this but it's marketed as a 'finishing' resin) then no. Hope this helps!
This us for a 2000 scarab 33 AVS, needing stringers and transom. Would you go with Epoxy or vinylester? And I was considering Coosa board instead of plywood so it can't rot, is that a good idea. Thanks for great vids! Subscribed!
Cyrus Erica Kliewer Either resin would work fine; epoxy will provide longer working times. Coosa board should work well; may not be as easy to cut and shape as plywood though. I think I'd compare the price of that versus actual marine plywood (okoume or merianti)
We had several 1x4 vertical support beams break loose from the support beam they were holding up. now there are holes in the floor that we cannot access from the underside. We are going to have to cut an even larger hole to have room to replace the 1x4 supports. How would we patch the holes if we can only patch from the top?
+Mark McQueen Hi Mark, it might be best if you could send me a couple pics of what you're working on :-) Thanks!
If I may ask, what model of dustless sander do you use? Thanks!
+J. Mark Foreman II It's a Fein sander and vac. Works really well for this kind of work!
Question: How do you deal with the short pot life of polyester resin when you have a huge layup and you are working alone? The stuff is unusable after about 10 minutes. Do they make a slow set hardener? An additive? I was reading that warmer temperatures make it set faster so would it give me more time if the mix cup was placed in one of those beer cooler cup holders with the freeze gel stuff inside to keep it cold?
What about starting on one end of the layup with a small amount of resin, then mixing multiple cups, one after the other. Would that work or would it make a bad or weaker layup?
Or should I just give up on polyester and go with epoxy?
+n4mwd For large layups, I generally work with multiple batches of resin. If you're rolling the resin on, you can typically apply 2Qts of material within 10 minutes, but to start I'd mix small batches. They do make a slow set Mek-P which could certainly be another option. I probably wouldn't put the resin in a cooler to slow the cure process; the resin needs to be 65F or warmer to properly do it's thing. Also, having it cooled will also make it thicker, so would be more difficult to wet the glass out :-)
+BoatworksToday Thanks. Do you know where I can buy slow set mekp or slow set resin? My small panels are 4'x7' and the large panel is 8'x20'. They are mostly flat, but there is intricate detail in places. The smaller panels are to be done with a mold and the larger one is moldless glass over foam technique. I've never done either one and they both call for polyester. I normally use epoxy. So I guess I'm in for a treat.
+n4mwd You should be able to work those areas with standard hardener. Catalyze the resin 1% which will give a little longer working time, and as soon as it's mixed (very well), spread the resin out over the glass so it's not sitting in the cup. work in sections and it will be fine :-) Once you get into it you'll quickly get a feel for the process and working time. Just have everything laid out, planned and ready to go! Good luck!
Picture this, you have a triangular hole just above the waterline port side in the aft area, measuring 40x30cm. why can't I build up a solid patch, half an inch thick (the thickness of the Hull) the exact shape as the hole and when it's gone hard fix in to the hole with epoxy paste. Then when this has set grind along the joint about 50mm either side and then fiberglass it up
How does the strength of these kinds of repairs compare to the original hull structure?
Joshua Jackson as good or better. Typically better choice of glass and more appropriate resin to glass ratio makes for a better laminate / repair
Hey Michael,
At this point about the best I can offer is ASAP :-) I have a much more detailed explanation on my Facebook page as to what's going on (unfortunately I'm not able to include a link; YT doesn't let me do that :-( But the short story is that work has gotten crazy, and wife and I are expecting baby #2 in a couple of months. There are some issues that have come up with MaMa requiring me to put some things on the back burner.
Please like my FB page for the updates :-)
Thanks!
Dig ur vids bro
What sort of vac do use to attach to your sander?
+Buffer Zone Just looked down. Dah.
How does one clean a fin roller?
You answered my question! Thanks!