You may laughingly call this "impact damage" but as a boater in Detroit, I would consider this to be a very practical how-to video on fixing actual bullet holes, LOL.
Let me begin by saying, I'm sorry. I had made quite an ignorant comment on your channel one night a while back and have since deleted it in an effort to avoid looking like the &$%# that I am. I've watched so many people who claimed to know how to make these kind of repairs, I've become quite the skeptic. I've watched many of your videos now and have learned so very much. Despite the old adage, "when you get free advice, you usually get your money's worth", Your lessons and advice have saved me thousands in repair shop fees. So, please accept my sincere apology... and thanks for sharing your information with everyone, Sam
Yup :-) 50-Cal to be exact! There's a video on what we did that day at the range... Not able to include a link in the comments section here, but look over my channel and you'll be able to find it..
was just reading west system manual, and they just lay fabric from biggest to smallest. so I came back here cause I swore you did the opposite, and you pretty much do! these kind of simple videos always help us noobs. would be great to hear your thoughts on your procedure vs west system manual!
Thanks for this informative video! I'm refitting my head and relocating the shower discharge from below the waterline to high above the waterline (fewer holes below the waterline). This video was very educational for what I need to do and what materials I need to have on hand to carry out the repair perfectly! :)
Thank you, your answer is very useful. When I saw an other video it wasn't vacuum bagging. It was for making the top surface more flat and to take the too much of the resin. I could tell you that you are a very good teacher, so the approach is very easy to understand. Merci beaucoup.
I've used peel ply when doing vacuum bagging, but never on it's own. I'm guessing the tech was using it to help level the surface while the resin was curing ? As far as I know, it's a porous material so using it as a 'curing film' would not work. Typically there is an absorbent material on top of the peel ply to soak up any excess resin when under vacuum. All of these layers are then under a 'bag' hooked up to the pump creating the vacuum. Hope this helps!
If you're not seeing obvious damage to the hull other than wear, you may have to look elsewhere. Are there any thru-hulls for an engine intake, head, depth sounder, knot meter, etc), also how is the engine mounted? Is it an I/O or strictly an outboard mounted on a bracket? It's possible that it could be the drain plug itself..
Great videos! Question: I noticed when you repair a larger hole, you fill the hole with a small piece of glass and progressively increase size until you match the hull thickness. To me this seems like the best method since each piece has some 'bite' on the hull. However, almost all videos I have seen on this subject start with the largest piece and work their way down to the smallest at the center. To me, it feels like I am relying 100% on the first (largest) piece for good adherence and the rest of the pieces are just going for the ride. Do you know of any structural reason for either method? Incidentally, I tried both. Not sure if there is a structural advantage to either, but I totally prefer your method as I feel like I am able to stack them flatter instead of fighting the curvature of the ground area. Keep up the great work! - Adam
That's pretty common :-) If you haven't watched the rest of the videos on this series you may want to check them out. There's 2 more that apply to glass work. Given that it's on the bottom of the boat, you may be able to get away with filling the hole with thickened epoxy (west system using the 406 silica filler). For a little re-assurance after this step, dish out the bottom of the hole and lay in a layer or two of csm using polyester resin (catalyze with Mek-P 10 drops per ounce of resin)
I'm wandering if in a future episode you can cover screw holes in the transom of fiberglass boat and uses of Marine Tex pro's cons to other different methods. I recently had to repair old screw holes from a transducer mount, unfortunately I don't have full access to a nice shop so it was done while boat was on trailer. I think may have caused the holes not to fill completely. Could you please send me some advise or link a video? Thanks your video's have been incredibly useful.
I didnt think about the plug and the last place i would of looked I will check this out Thank you. Now as for the keel wear from the boat rollers, How would i best tackle the repair do you have a youtube video on this ?
Any tips on repairing the area under a boat seat that is only accessible from the top side. I am wanting to repair the area and then re screw the chair base on!
Thank you for the reply I will have to have a look at this Keel Shield and see if I can find it here in Australia. I note a lot of items available to you are not to me Im not sure if its got anything to do with out import laws or not or im just not looking in the right shops :) Anyway thank you again great to have some help
Incredible series, i have learnt so much. Thank you man. I have a 2004 Yamaha waverunner that needs quite a bit of hull repair...i got stuck into it this weekend, just started sanding a small section of the bottom while it is sitting on tyres looks like there has been previous repairs done on the hull too. After getting through the first paint layer i came across a grey soft coat of what must be body filler i can basically push my nail into it. So i am going to have to pull the motor and flip the ski upside down to be able to work properly on it. My only worry is that the hull is SMC and am afraid of the new fibre/epoxy not bonding properly. Any sort of advise would be amazing. Cheers from South Africa
+Ryan Vogel There shouldn't be any problems as long as the prep work is done properly. Clean the surface, grind away the damage, clean again and layup the new glass :-) Laminating poly or vinylester resin would probably be your best choice.. Hope this helps!
You can apply new gel overtop old gelcoat IF it is structurally sound (no voids, flaking, de-lam, etc). Coarsely sand and clean before application. As far as laying glass over gel, if can be done, but it's best to remove as much of the gelcoat as possible (getting to bare glass is best). Leveling with epoxy prior to gelcoat is not a good idea. There will be issues with the gelcoat bonding with the epoxy. If you choose to use epoxy for fairing it's best to prime and paint (not gelcoat) :-)
Where do you buy your fiberglass cloth?? Does it matter what weight?? I’m having a hard time deciding what material I should use for a Bayliner 92 I’m replacing transom,deck,and thru hole in the bottom
What do you do if you can't get to both sides of the fiberglass. I have some cracks on the bottom of my hull becasue the previous owner did not recarpet the trailer bumpers getting ready to recarpet the trailer, so I figured I would do the glass repair at the same time.
Probably the best thing to try first is to go at it with a buffer with a wool pad and some coarse compound. I've had really good luck with Meguiar's oxidation remover. It's a bit of work but it does really make a difference. After that a few coats of a quality wax :-)
I had a crack in the seat, so I started sanding and discovered 2 layers of old glass delaminating. Should I keep sanding back material until I find where they bond again? Also can I use expoy on an old poly layup to increase its strength?
I would like to know if you would be able to answer some questions for me when it comes to gel coat and fiberglass. I have searched the net, and can not get a straight answer. Some people say it is ok, and some people say it's not to the following questions. Can someone lay a new gel coat on top of a old gel coat. The second question is can extra layers of fiberglass be applied on top of old gel coat. And can you use epoxy putty as a filler for leveling area that you are going to gel coat.
Prepare a piece of fiberglass cut and resin in the dimensions that will allow you to slide it in as a backing. Drill a small hole in the cured fiberglass backing. run some line thru the hole to hold pressure against the hull after you apply resin and the backing to the back of the hole. After cured. you can cut the string and now have a backing that will help keep things from bowing. You will be basically only glassing building up the one side you have access to. Then follow the instructions from the video. There is discussion for building up the damage smaller layer toward the damage first then bigger as the last layer as discribed above. Theory being if outer layer fails you will have other layers under it to provide a seal. The other technique is to use the biggest layer down first and build up with smaller layers. Maybe Boatworks guy can weigh in on both techniques. Cheers.
This is super helpful. Thanks so much for your videos! Quick question: I'm about to pull a faulty/leaking seacock (below water line) out of my 28' Newport sailboat and glass over the hole using the glass mat(s) you referenced and WS 105 epoxy. My only problem is that there is another through-hull located rather close to the one I'm glassing over. It might be too close to grind out the correct diameter all the way around. Any thoughts?
Hi Andy, great videos!! I used your method to glass in an unused through hull hole from an old transducer. It worked great. I have another one to glass in, 1 1/2" transducer but it is only 1 1/2" away from an adjacent through hull which I will keep, so I cant scarf the hole at 12:1all the way around the hole... should I just leave it alone ( not leaking), or scarf and fill them both in and then drill a new one ? thank you
Hi I am after some advise please. I am by no means an expert so please bare with me. I have a small 14.5 ft what I would like to do is remove the hat or top. Then I would like to increase the side of the hull height by about 250mm. Next I would like to build a new skirting all round with a side console
I have a fiberglass repair project that will require the process you describe in this video. I’m starting out with no experience in fiberglass, resin or epoxy. Where do I go to buy the items you talked about in this video? Conroe, Texas.
I need some help with my boat. My grandfather told me the boat he had as a kid was mine. ONE PROBLEM: The boat has really large gashes in the sides of the hull about a foot long! How would I go about that?
What if I can’t really access the other side... it’s an 8 foot sailing dinghy, with two glass shells kind of glued together. I mean, the layers aren’t held together super tight, should I seperate them to get a good repair on it?
Do you have any Vids on How to fix a FG hole from just one side ? I cannot get at the inside of the Hull. The hole doesn't go all the way thru but the yellow fracturing of the glass does.
Need your help. Have an Fiberglass RV with gelcoat that that was built in 1987. After cleaning the gelcoat what do you recommend for wax to get the gelcoat to shine again, too looking showroom?
Hey. I got a boat build in 1972 GRP (Old Harding life boat). How am I suppose to find cracks,delamination(s). Is there any tools to do that or I must remove the paint and do the visual inspection plus tap it; as in your videos.? Thanks.
Excellant advise, truly enjoy watching your tutorials, wWorking in the shipyard might give you fiberglass reinforced lungs. wear a full Face mask for 8hrs a day 40hrs a week 50 weeks a year for a few years and you will understand.
Nice tutorial but i have some questions: what are the steps for a curved surface? for a plane surface it's easy using tape as a backer but how the backer is made for a curved surface ? Thanks
Every situation is different. Getting creative and thinking outside the box is the trick :-) There's always a way, just might take a bit to figure it out.
I saw a video where the technician utilised PEEL PLY, a kind of polyester fabric that is applied on the resin/fiberglass. What is your opinion about this product. Does it replace to put wax on the last layer of fiberglass?
No vids other than basic fairing and re-gelcoating. Another option would be to use what's called a keel shield. It's more or less a sacrificial PVC layer that is glued onto the keel :-) It takes the wear, not the gelcoat...
Actually a 50-cal machine gun! The video just before this one called '50 cal machine gun highlights' shows the gun along with some "fireworks" :-) Things get pretty cool at around 2:00
Would this work for screw holes? Im converting a wood/fibreglass hole to a single skin fibreglass. Mainly for weight but also cause I’m fed up with treating wood
I know this is an older video, but I want to take my outboard engine retractable mount off and replace with a newer version for a Catalina 22 sailboat. Do you still recommend sanding that much through the transume? Thanks Greg Delaware
Hello I have a 18 foot fibreglass boat that has six holes in a 1.5 foot square area my problem is if repair the holes the way you show in the video most of the repairs will be over lapping each other is this ok or should I remove the section of the bottom and replace it ?
I cut a hole in mine with a dang sawzaw. 😤😡 Still gotta learn how to repair that and finish replacing rotten wood in floor. What should I use to finish cutting floor out without cutting through the hill again.
Andy.. I am currently looking to add an outboard bracket to my 28 Bristol Sailboat and have seen some videos on other channels about oversizing the hole and filling with thickened epoxy and then drilling only through the epoxy so that if any water does get past the sealant it's going to only see epoxy and not the wood core laminate which should keep it from rotting out the transom..is this something you recommend doing? If so I am thinking of doing it to all my deck mounted hardware (blocks, jammers, etc) when I mount them as I am currently dealing with wet core on the deck.
Sooo...can't find anyone who knows this...how do I do this repair if I can only access the exterior? I have a vintage sunfish, and the hull has a 3 inch hole going all the way through. How do I insert a backing? I don't want to have to completely gut the entire boat, it would take me a year.
Question - Do you have a video showing how to repair similar damage if only one side is accessible? As in, damage to the hull in an area where the interior liner doesn't allow access?
also, would it be ok to not cut out the damage or to not glass the back side since its styrafoam board and an int. wall behind it? its like it got punched. thanks
Do you have a video of fixing the big boat in the background of this video? I'd love to see you fixing a hole in a boats hull like that.. There's nothing else like that on RUclips.
Wondered why I have not seen some of your videos, the box said I was not subscribed ? I have been a sub for a long time. Strange, impact and exit LOL I remember that video.
I need help! I am restoring my fiberglass flats boat built in 1989. I have the deck painted and looking real nice and just noticed a soft spot. It is slightly smaller than the size of a Coke can. I watched a video on using Penetrating Epoxy which looked easy and effective but then I called my boat's manufacturer and he said not to use that type of product. He said, cut away the plywood, replace, glass over and gel coat. What do you recommend? Thanks, David
Well, if it's a fiberglass boat you can simply follow the progress on this video series. There's currently 3 vids with the next one coming along in a week or so. Whether it's a hole, gash, large crack, etc doesn't really matter; the repair process is relatively the same :-) As you get a little farther along in the repair feel free to post a pic or two on my facebook page (please consider liking it as well ;-) with any specific questions!! Good luck!
I have a stress crack on a radius of my boat just below the foam filled gunnel. the crack is the result of the previous owner ratcheting down the stern of the boat on the trailer. The crack formed just forward of the transom deck. The transom deck added some strength to the hull and appears to have prevented the crack from spreading. The crack is well above the water line but its something i want to fix right. I can fit a thin knife blade in the crack but its relatively small and I dont think it a structural issue (yet). What are your thoughts on the repair? How much glass should i remove?
Hello I have a 2 question, I have a 18 foot Fiberglass Boat after spending an hour or so out fishing I placed the Boat back on the trailer and removed the bungs,I had about a 200 to 300ml of water come out of the dran hole. Im thinking i have a crack in the hull somewhere.how would i find such a small crack. i cant see any damage apart from where the gel coat has rubbed off the V from running up on the trailer. my next question is whats the best way to fix the Keel with trailer damage Cheers
I have a 30' Larson Cabrio. I have a hole that only a pen can fir through. I used to do Fiberglass layup for Hydrostream boats. The damage is from a rock grinding then puncturing the bottom. Do I need to grind it down like in your video? It's pretty thick. I know from what a repair place told me that theres alot of pressure on the bottom because of the boat size. Should I have a pro do it?
Tom Ruka Hey Tom, Definitely need to get at this from both sides. My rule is anything below the waterline needs to be done this way; above the waterline there's a little more wiggle room ;-) Depending on how much time you want to put into this, this should absolutely be something you can do! If you follow the steps put together in 'Hole In My Boat' series you'll be fine! Hit me up if you have questions along the way :-)
how would i repair nail holes on the bottom of my boat. Just bought it and i looked underneath it and seen nails sticking out they put plywood down for the floor?
should i use epoxy or poly for an rv? i guess an rv is made of poly where a boat would be made of epoxy? would epoxy stick as well as poly on poly? thanks
Epoxy will have a stronger bond compared to poly on poly; but on an RV I don't know that the added cost of epoxy would be necessary.. You should be fine to do everything with poly :-)
If you want to protect yourself from the glass you should have a fresh shave so your mask can make a proper seal on your face. Without the seal you are still getting harmful things in your lungs.
You may laughingly call this "impact damage" but as a boater in Detroit, I would consider this to be a very practical how-to video on fixing actual bullet holes, LOL.
Let me begin by saying, I'm sorry. I had made quite an ignorant comment on your channel one night a while back and have since deleted it in an effort to avoid looking like the &$%# that I am. I've watched so many people who claimed to know how to make these kind of repairs, I've become quite the skeptic. I've watched many of your videos now and have learned so very much. Despite the old adage, "when you get free advice, you usually get your money's worth", Your lessons and advice have saved me thousands in repair shop fees. So, please accept my sincere apology... and thanks for sharing your information with everyone, Sam
SoutheastBluesMan No prob Sam :-) I appreciate you stepping up and owning it; most people wouldn't.. It takes character to do that ! Thank you
Yup :-) 50-Cal to be exact! There's a video on what we did that day at the range... Not able to include a link in the comments section here, but look over my channel and you'll be able to find it..
was just reading west system manual, and they just lay fabric from biggest to smallest. so I came back here cause I swore you did the opposite, and you pretty much do! these kind of simple videos always help us noobs. would be great to hear your thoughts on your procedure vs west system manual!
Thanks for this informative video! I'm refitting my head and relocating the shower discharge from below the waterline to high above the waterline (fewer holes below the waterline). This video was very educational for what I need to do and what materials I need to have on hand to carry out the repair perfectly! :)
Thank you, your answer is very useful. When I saw an other video it wasn't vacuum bagging. It was for making the top surface more flat and to take the too much of the resin.
I could tell you that you are a very good teacher, so the approach is very easy to understand.
Merci beaucoup.
Glad you're back! I've had that happen to me as well.. Not sure why..
I've used peel ply when doing vacuum bagging, but never on it's own. I'm guessing the tech was using it to help level the surface while the resin was curing ? As far as I know, it's a porous material so using it as a 'curing film' would not work. Typically there is an absorbent material on top of the peel ply to soak up any excess resin when under vacuum. All of these layers are then under a 'bag' hooked up to the pump creating the vacuum. Hope this helps!
If you're not seeing obvious damage to the hull other than wear, you may have to look elsewhere. Are there any thru-hulls for an engine intake, head, depth sounder, knot meter, etc), also how is the engine mounted? Is it an I/O or strictly an outboard mounted on a bracket? It's possible that it could be the drain plug itself..
Great videos! Question: I noticed when you repair a larger hole, you fill the hole with a small piece of glass and progressively increase size until you match the hull thickness. To me this seems like the best method since each piece has some 'bite' on the hull. However, almost all videos I have seen on this subject start with the largest piece and work their way down to the smallest at the center. To me, it feels like I am relying 100% on the first (largest) piece for good adherence and the rest of the pieces are just going for the ride. Do you know of any structural reason for either method? Incidentally, I tried both. Not sure if there is a structural advantage to either, but I totally prefer your method as I feel like I am able to stack them flatter instead of fighting the curvature of the ground area. Keep up the great work! - Adam
That's pretty common :-) If you haven't watched the rest of the videos on this series you may want to check them out. There's 2 more that apply to glass work. Given that it's on the bottom of the boat, you may be able to get away with filling the hole with thickened epoxy (west system using the 406 silica filler). For a little re-assurance after this step, dish out the bottom of the hole and lay in a layer or two of csm using polyester resin (catalyze with Mek-P 10 drops per ounce of resin)
I'm wandering if in a future episode you can cover screw holes in the transom of fiberglass boat and uses of Marine Tex pro's cons to other different methods. I recently had to repair old screw holes from a transducer mount, unfortunately I don't have full access to a nice shop so it was done while boat was on trailer. I think may have caused the holes not to fill completely. Could you please send me some advise or link a video? Thanks your video's have been incredibly useful.
These informationals are most terrific. Thank you kindly for sharing your acquired and innovative skills.
Great videos! I just bought a boat with extensive damage and am learning quite a bit from you. Thanks
the best video series on youtube....thank.you!
Keep up the good work I have learned a lot from the Videos, have a happy new year
Next time, show the cause, we all like firearms!! Hahah
I didnt think about the plug and the last place i would of looked I will check this out Thank you. Now as for the keel wear from the boat rollers, How would i best tackle the repair do you have a youtube video on this ?
Any tips on repairing the area under a boat seat that is only accessible from the top side. I am wanting to repair the area and then re screw the chair base on!
I've got an L shape 10" long 4 " wide saw cut in my fiber glass boat.......same process? Am I screwed?
Thank you for the reply I will have to have a look at this Keel Shield and see if I can find it here in Australia. I note a lot of items available to you are not to me Im not sure if its got anything to do with out import laws or not or im just not looking in the right shops :) Anyway thank you again great to have some help
Incredible series, i have learnt so much. Thank you man.
I have a 2004 Yamaha waverunner that needs quite a bit of hull repair...i got stuck into it this weekend, just started sanding a small section of the bottom while it is sitting on tyres looks like there has been previous repairs done on the hull too. After getting through the first paint layer i came across a grey soft coat of what must be body filler i can basically push my nail into it. So i am going to have to pull the motor and flip the ski upside down to be able to work properly on it. My only worry is that the hull is SMC and am afraid of the new fibre/epoxy not bonding properly. Any sort of advise would be amazing. Cheers from South Africa
+Ryan Vogel There shouldn't be any problems as long as the prep work is done properly. Clean the surface, grind away the damage, clean again and layup the new glass :-) Laminating poly or vinylester resin would probably be your best choice.. Hope this helps!
You can apply new gel overtop old gelcoat IF it is structurally sound (no voids, flaking, de-lam, etc). Coarsely sand and clean before application. As far as laying glass over gel, if can be done, but it's best to remove as much of the gelcoat as possible (getting to bare glass is best). Leveling with epoxy prior to gelcoat is not a good idea. There will be issues with the gelcoat bonding with the epoxy. If you choose to use epoxy for fairing it's best to prime and paint (not gelcoat) :-)
Where do you buy your fiberglass cloth?? Does it matter what weight?? I’m having a hard time deciding what material I should use for a Bayliner 92 I’m replacing transom,deck,and thru hole in the bottom
Born with the gift of gab
What do you do if you can't get to both sides of the fiberglass. I have some cracks on the bottom of my hull becasue the previous owner did not recarpet the trailer bumpers getting ready to recarpet the trailer, so I figured I would do the glass repair at the same time.
Probably the best thing to try first is to go at it with a buffer with a wool pad and some coarse compound. I've had really good luck with Meguiar's oxidation remover. It's a bit of work but it does really make a difference. After that a few coats of a quality wax :-)
I had a crack in the seat, so I started sanding and discovered 2 layers of old glass delaminating. Should I keep sanding back material until I find where they bond again? Also can I use expoy on an old poly layup to increase its strength?
I would like to know if you would be able to answer some questions for me when it comes to gel coat and fiberglass. I have searched the net, and can not get a straight answer. Some people say it is ok, and some people say it's not to the following questions. Can someone lay a new gel coat on top of a old gel coat. The second question is can extra layers of fiberglass be applied on top of old gel coat. And can you use epoxy putty as a filler for leveling area that you are going to gel coat.
Your awesome, love the videos and just your character. You seem like a really cool guy!
How do yo approach a repair where you cannot access the back side of the impact ?
Prepare a piece of fiberglass cut and resin in the dimensions that will allow you to slide it in as a backing. Drill a small hole in the cured fiberglass backing. run some line thru the hole to hold pressure against the hull after you apply resin and the backing to the back of the hole. After cured. you can cut the string and now have a backing that will help keep things from bowing. You will be basically only glassing building up the one side you have access to. Then follow the instructions from the video. There is discussion for building up the damage smaller layer toward the damage first then bigger as the last layer as discribed above. Theory being if outer layer fails you will have other layers under it to provide a seal. The other technique is to use the biggest layer down first and build up with smaller layers. Maybe Boatworks guy can weigh in on both techniques. Cheers.
This is super helpful. Thanks so much for your videos!
Quick question: I'm about to pull a faulty/leaking seacock (below water line) out of my 28' Newport sailboat and glass over the hole using the glass mat(s) you referenced and WS 105 epoxy. My only problem is that there is another through-hull located rather close to the one I'm glassing over. It might be too close to grind out the correct diameter all the way around. Any thoughts?
Hi Andy, great videos!! I used your method to glass in an unused through hull hole from an old transducer. It worked great. I have another one to glass in, 1 1/2" transducer but it is only 1 1/2" away from an adjacent through hull which I will keep, so I cant scarf the hole at 12:1all the way around the hole...
should I just leave it alone ( not leaking), or scarf and fill them both in and then drill a new one ?
thank you
Hi I am after some advise please. I am by no means an expert so please bare with me. I have a small 14.5 ft what I would like to do is remove the hat or top. Then I would like to increase the side of the hull height by about 250mm. Next I would like to build a new skirting all round with a side console
I have a fiberglass repair project that will require the process you describe in this video. I’m starting out with no experience in fiberglass, resin or epoxy. Where do I go to buy the items you talked about in this video? Conroe, Texas.
I understand that acetone is the ideal, but I can't get that in the Azores. Can I use thinner instead?
I need some help with my boat. My grandfather told me the boat he had as a kid was mine. ONE PROBLEM: The boat has really large gashes in the sides of the hull about a foot long! How would I go about that?
What if I can’t really access the other side... it’s an 8 foot sailing dinghy, with two glass shells kind of glued together. I mean, the layers aren’t held together super tight, should I seperate them to get a good repair on it?
What if it’s on the top of the hull, and there are lines in the design?
Do you have any Vids on How to fix a FG hole from just one side ? I cannot get at the inside of the Hull.
The hole doesn't go all the way thru but the yellow fracturing of the glass does.
Need your help. Have an Fiberglass RV with gelcoat that that was built in 1987. After cleaning the gelcoat what do you recommend for wax to get the gelcoat to shine again, too looking showroom?
Hey. I got a boat build in 1972 GRP (Old Harding life boat). How am I suppose to find cracks,delamination(s). Is there any tools to do that or I must remove the paint and do the visual inspection plus tap it; as in your videos.?
Thanks.
Excellant advise, truly enjoy watching your tutorials, wWorking in the shipyard might give you fiberglass reinforced lungs. wear a full
Face mask for 8hrs a day 40hrs a week 50 weeks a year for a few years and you will understand.
What’s the best way to do an emergency repair under the water line...while the boat is in the water?
Nice tutorial but i have some questions: what are the steps for a curved surface? for a plane surface it's easy using tape as a backer but how the backer is made for a curved surface ?
Thanks
Every situation is different. Getting creative and thinking outside the box is the trick :-) There's always a way, just might take a bit to figure it out.
Did you shoot the test panel?
I need to glass a large hole in my hull about 3"x12"...what would you suggest to use as a backer for the first layer of glass?
What grinding disk did you use?
I saw a video where the technician utilised PEEL PLY, a kind of polyester fabric that is applied on the resin/fiberglass. What is your opinion about this product. Does it replace to put wax on the last layer of fiberglass?
No vids other than basic fairing and re-gelcoating. Another option would be to use what's called a keel shield. It's more or less a sacrificial PVC layer that is glued onto the keel :-) It takes the wear, not the gelcoat...
Outstanding class.
Actually a 50-cal machine gun! The video just before this one called '50 cal machine gun highlights' shows the gun along with some "fireworks" :-) Things get pretty cool at around 2:00
looks like a .40-.45 inch impact to me
Would this work for screw holes? Im converting a wood/fibreglass hole to a single skin fibreglass. Mainly for weight but also cause I’m fed up with treating wood
I know this is an older video, but I want to take my outboard engine retractable mount off and replace with a newer version for a Catalina 22 sailboat. Do you still recommend sanding that much through the transume? Thanks Greg Delaware
Hello I have a 18 foot fibreglass boat that has six holes in a 1.5 foot square area my problem is if repair the holes the way you show in the video most of the repairs will be over lapping each other is this ok or should I remove the section of the bottom and replace it ?
I cut a hole in mine with a dang sawzaw. 😤😡 Still gotta learn how to repair that and finish replacing rotten wood in floor. What should I use to finish cutting floor out without cutting through the hill again.
Can you apply PVA from a hand-spray bottle?
Andy.. I am currently looking to add an outboard bracket to my 28 Bristol Sailboat and have seen some videos on other channels about oversizing the hole and filling with thickened epoxy and then drilling only through the epoxy so that if any water does get past the sealant it's going to only see epoxy and not the wood core laminate which should keep it from rotting out the transom..is this something you recommend doing? If so I am thinking of doing it to all my deck mounted hardware (blocks, jammers, etc) when I mount them as I am currently dealing with wet core on the deck.
you are a good teacher
What about a hole like the kind that one would have like replacing grudgeons that the new holes don't match? say the holes are 1/4inch?
How to fill a 1.5”x 1”x 4’ section. What type of material to use
I'm confused about putting CSM between 1708 because 1708 already has a layer of CSM on the backside of it
Sooo...can't find anyone who knows this...how do I do this repair if I can only access the exterior? I have a vintage sunfish, and the hull has a 3 inch hole going all the way through. How do I insert a backing? I don't want to have to completely gut the entire boat, it would take me a year.
What’s a reasonable price for a repair like that?
Question - Do you have a video showing how to repair similar damage if only one side is accessible? As in, damage to the hull in an area where the interior liner doesn't allow access?
Not yet, but have it on the list for this Winter!
BoatworksToday
LOL ... "Let's just call this 'impact damage'." ;)
Love your vids. I'm doing my color matching this afternoon, Thanks! :)
also, would it be ok to not cut out the damage or to not glass the back side since its styrafoam board and an int. wall behind it? its like it got punched. thanks
I have some photos I could share to give you a better idea of what it looks like. Thank you !!
Awesome vid, thanks!
How much does a small fiberglass repair cost?
Great vid and information thank you.
Do you have a video of fixing the big boat in the background of this video?
I'd love to see you fixing a hole in a boats hull like that.. There's nothing else like that on RUclips.
+Costa Bryanos Nothing that specific, but the process would be exactly the same as what I have outlined in this series :-)
Wondered why I have not seen some of your videos, the box said I was not subscribed ? I have been a sub for a long time. Strange, impact and exit LOL I remember that video.
I need help! I am restoring my fiberglass flats boat built in 1989. I have the deck painted and looking real nice and just noticed a soft spot. It is slightly smaller than the size of a Coke can. I watched a video on using Penetrating Epoxy which looked easy and effective but then I called my boat's manufacturer and he said not to use that type of product. He said, cut away the plywood, replace, glass over and gel coat.
What do you recommend?
Thanks,
David
+David McCauley Hi David, I'd do exactly what the manufacturer recommended. It's really the best way :-)
+BoatworksToday OK thanks.
Well, if it's a fiberglass boat you can simply follow the progress on this video series. There's currently 3 vids with the next one coming along in a week or so. Whether it's a hole, gash, large crack, etc doesn't really matter; the repair process is relatively the same :-)
As you get a little farther along in the repair feel free to post a pic or two on my facebook page (please consider liking it as well ;-) with any specific questions!!
Good luck!
thanks so much, very informative
I have a stress crack on a radius of my boat just below the foam filled gunnel. the crack is the result of the previous owner ratcheting down the stern of the boat on the trailer. The crack formed just forward of the transom deck. The transom deck added some strength to the hull and appears to have prevented the crack from spreading. The crack is well above the water line but its something i want to fix right. I can fit a thin knife blade in the crack but its relatively small and I dont think it a structural issue (yet). What are your thoughts on the repair? How much glass should i remove?
Robert Skrmetta hard to say without seeing it, you able to email a couple pics?
Ai încercat formata ca conbini rasina cobaltul cu ipsos sa vezi reactie
Impact damage? That looks like a bullet hole....hence the smirking and laughing when he talks about it. LOL
Hello I have a 2 question, I have a 18 foot Fiberglass Boat after spending an hour or so out fishing I placed the Boat back on the trailer and removed the bungs,I had about a 200 to 300ml of water come out of the dran hole. Im thinking i have a crack in the hull somewhere.how would i find such a small crack. i cant see any damage apart from where the gel coat has rubbed off the V from running up on the trailer. my next question is whats the best way to fix the Keel with trailer damage Cheers
With the boat on the trailer, remove the battrey and start filling the boat with water. Check the hull for leaks from time to time
Sorry Andy I'm not on Facebook but look forward to watching you on you tube good bye for now
I have a 30' Larson Cabrio. I have a hole that only a pen can fir through.
I used to do Fiberglass layup for Hydrostream boats. The damage is from a rock grinding then puncturing the bottom. Do I need to grind it down like in your video? It's pretty thick. I know from what a repair place told me that theres alot of pressure on the bottom because of the boat size. Should I have a pro do it?
Tom Ruka Hey Tom, Definitely need to get at this from both sides. My rule is anything below the waterline needs to be done this way; above the waterline there's a little more wiggle room ;-) Depending on how much time you want to put into this, this should absolutely be something you can do! If you follow the steps put together in 'Hole In My Boat' series you'll be fine! Hit me up if you have questions along the way :-)
Cool & Thanks. I'll probably be asking for some more pointers. Watch out for wing dams!! Lol
how does water vapor get into fiberglass boat ??
Maybe you should use Kevlar next time:-)
Who shot the panel?
hi, how do you go about repairing a hole the size of that board you have? Thanks
+Bada Bing Really depends on the location of the damage :-/ Need more info :-)
how would i repair nail holes on the bottom of my boat. Just bought it and i looked underneath it and seen nails sticking out they put plywood down for the floor?
Is the boat wood or fiberglass?
fiberglass when they layered it with plywood the nails to hold it down went through the bottom of the boat
should i use epoxy or poly for an rv? i guess an rv is made of poly where a boat would be made of epoxy? would epoxy stick as well as poly on poly? thanks
Epoxy will have a stronger bond compared to poly on poly; but on an RV I don't know that the added cost of epoxy would be necessary.. You should be fine to do everything with poly :-)
Need to repair a leak where mast electrics come through coach roof.
It's best to watch in HD :-)
This guy has more experience with bullet “impact” repair than he’s willing to admit
Hey Jeff, post some pics on my Facebook page; others would love to follow your progress! If you have any Q's just let me know :-)
I want to cut my van topper and raise the ceiling 16 inches. Then fill the gap with fiberglass.
You keep dancing around it, but just be blunt... You SHOT it didn't you lmao that's a bullet hole 😂
I'm not sure if you still monitor comments this long after but I'll try. If I had to guess I'd say nine millimeter.
Now that made me laugh!! Keep your head down ;-)
Why are you shooting it to make a video
Yeah, that hole made a loud bang when it was made. Lol
If you want to protect yourself from the glass you should have a fresh shave so your mask can make a proper seal on your face. Without the seal you are still getting harmful things in your lungs.