Can also use those threaded nut inserts, much like a pop rivet I put epoxy on the exterior of them when installing into fiberglass to give them more longevity
I’ve done the zip tie trick when I’ve needed something to hold long enough to get home. My favorite is thru-bolting and I’ve filled the hole with marine Tex and redrilled when I couldn’t reach behind.
I’ve got to replace a bow eye due to the Lowe bolt stripping out. Do you think the marine Tex method would work in this case since I can’t look behind the hull?
I was afraid that would be required in this case. Thinking it will be best to have a professional take care of this repair then. Really appreciate your response!
@@CamereMane they make plastic circular access holes. You cut a circular big enough to do your job, then screw it in when you’re finished. The factory probably installed the bow eye in the hull and the dropped the liner on top of it. The only way to not have an access hatch if there’s no other accessibility would be to separate the two halves which would be price prohibitive.
I've gotten a baby medicine syringe from the pharmacy, wash out the hole with some alcohol, let dry, then mix some or if the marine epoxy comes in a syringe, inject into the hole, let it dry, then predrill the hole and us whatever screw you want that fits the predrilled size
As I'm reading your comment I realized I'm an idiot, you could just suck up the resin from the cup using the syringe instead of trying to pack it in from the top lol :/ smh, thank you for the comment! Love the baby medicine syringe idea :)
Trust me, it doesn't always work out that easily. Pull the plunger out and fill it from the back. 28 years of doing this... lessons learned the hard way. lol
I mix to mayonnaise consistency and put it into a ziplock freezer bag cut the corner off a pipe it in place prefer cotton flock as the putty is less brittle than putty made with cabosil
Great ideas. Whenever I fix or fill old unused holes in transoms, decks, floors etc from old battery box mounts, tranducers etc I usually drill it out to next size clean. Then take a marine dowel they sell in like 2 foot pieces and after i fill the hole with resin i push the dowel in so its snug but i leave about 1/8 inch short. Then while its still wet i add MATCHING GELCOAT and overfill the rest of the hole so it MOUNDS a little. Then once it cures I sand it flat.
Once the foam is removed.. use a small piece of plywood on the backside of each screw hole or however suits your needs and then run your screws back through the fiberglass into the wood.. then re foam the void space if desired.
Hi. Thank u it is very professionally. Can we see in next video how u make thread throw poxy? Let me ask question when u will make thread, size of whole it is same to size of bolt? Thank u
When it comes to bolts and threads, typically the size of the hole is slightly larger than the size of the bolt. This allows for the bolt to fit into the hole easily without binding, while still providing enough contact area for a secure connection.
Hello! Rose here, assisting Aaron with comments. Fantastic question! It's going on our podcast feature list. Haven't checked it out yet? Subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Greetings! Rose here, expressing gratitude for your comment! However, I'm unable to address your specific question, but I have saved it to be answered in more details on our podcast channel in an upcoming episode. Click the link below to subscribe if you haven't already🙏 www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
You can use a large countersink bit to clean out the old hole and create more surface area for bonding. When there is foam behind it, use a small Allen wrench chucked into a drill, insert it in the hole and clear away a small pocket for the epoxy to fill.
Take an L alien key or bend a nail, put it through the hole and span it onto your driller. Now run it to get space behind. Now take your putty into a tough plastic bag (eg freezer bags) and cut a very small corner. Now press your putty into the hole till it comes out, even it out. Let dry and drill hole new. Now you have much more material the screw is holding on.
That'll work too! I like making videos like this because when you go to make them you can only think of 5 or 6 things and then after making them people comment like 10 more different ways you forgot about lol :)
@BornAgainBoating all good brother. I get what you're saying. Though, I will definitely revisit my rod holder on the back of my boat and change it to a machined bolt with washer and nut.
Tomorrow :) I'm spraying it with cans though, because I want to show more people how to do it at home that don't have an air compressor, paint gun, and money to buy All Grip :)
Yup, I always get that mixed up too, it's polyester that doesn't stick to the epoxy. Most boats are all made out of polyester resin, so epoxy pretty much sticks to everything. But it is also usually talking about paint, gelcoat, and the coatings when people talk about poly not sticking to epoxy.
@@BornAgainBoating thanks! I fixed deep keel gelcoat scratches with epoxy gelcoat, than thought that maybe I should have used polyester based, but after a year the keel still looks fine, nothing fell off.
Yup, like he said, with epoxy :) also remember wood rots, depending on where you need it too go, could factor in there :) but soaked in epoxy, should last many many years!
I'm not going to lie watching him try to put the epoxy into the syringe with a straw what's the most infuriating thing that I've seen all day, it's a syringe bro just suck it up. 😭
Just move it over a little to to good glass. Done. Why the holes busted out is because the rod holder was installed without bedding compound (like 4200). At least some silicone. It will hold it instead of the screws
Pro Hacks ... use a zip tie LOL. Make SURE THIS guy NEVER works on your boat. Even at the final fix with resin, this person is an amatuer that obviously doesn't do fiberglass repairs routinely. There are structural fillers for epoxy and fairing fillers. Gomer here doesn't know the difference.
I have used 5200 and it works. Or depending of the situation I use Stainless Steel threated inserts, T-nuts, or Petal rivets nuts for thinner fiber glass.
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Can also use those threaded nut inserts, much like a pop rivet
I put epoxy on the exterior of them when installing into fiberglass to give them more longevity
Nice, I was wondering if I could use riv-nuts on my boat & you answered my question perfectly!...thanks from Zimbabwe👍
Epoxy is a good tip also thanks. I use beeswax when threading into the threaded rivnuts to seal them in a removable fashion.
Or use a stainless toggle bolt
Came here to say "wtf is that"
But, I also have Google, so I'll say, have a blessed day ❤❤❤
I’ve done the zip tie trick when I’ve needed something to hold long enough to get home. My favorite is thru-bolting and I’ve filled the hole with marine Tex and redrilled when I couldn’t reach behind.
I’ve got to replace a bow eye due to the Lowe bolt stripping out.
Do you think the marine Tex method would work in this case since I can’t look behind the hull?
@@CamereMane if you’re trailering your boat, you’re going to need to cut an access point and thru bolt the bow eye or it will pull through again
I was afraid that would be required in this case. Thinking it will be best to have a professional take care of this repair then.
Really appreciate your response!
@@CamereMane they make plastic circular access holes. You cut a circular big enough to do your job, then screw it in when you’re finished. The factory probably installed the bow eye in the hull and the dropped the liner on top of it. The only way to not have an access hatch if there’s no other accessibility would be to separate the two halves which would be price prohibitive.
Excellent video. Thank you!
I've gotten a baby medicine syringe from the pharmacy, wash out the hole with some alcohol, let dry, then mix some or if the marine epoxy comes in a syringe, inject into the hole, let it dry, then predrill the hole and us whatever screw you want that fits the predrilled size
As I'm reading your comment I realized I'm an idiot, you could just suck up the resin from the cup using the syringe instead of trying to pack it in from the top lol :/ smh, thank you for the comment! Love the baby medicine syringe idea :)
Trust me, it doesn't always work out that easily.
Pull the plunger out and fill it from the back.
28 years of doing this... lessons learned the hard way. lol
I mix to mayonnaise consistency and put it into a ziplock freezer bag cut the corner off a pipe it in place prefer cotton flock as the putty is less brittle than putty made with cabosil
Great ideas. Whenever I fix or fill old unused holes in transoms, decks, floors etc from old battery box mounts, tranducers etc I usually drill it out to next size clean. Then take a marine dowel they sell in like 2 foot pieces and after i fill the hole with resin i push the dowel in so its snug but i leave about 1/8 inch short. Then while its still wet i add MATCHING GELCOAT and overfill the rest of the hole so it MOUNDS a little. Then once it cures I sand it flat.
Thanks again, I aways appreciate your content mate!
Thank you!
What about using wood behind to give it strength
If you can get to it :) you can use any backing plate you want! It's when there isn't access that's the issue :/
chamfer bit is great prep step for this type of repair 8:50
True that!
Once the foam is removed.. use a small piece of plywood on the backside of each screw hole or however suits your needs and then run your screws back through the fiberglass into the wood.. then re foam the void space if desired.
Hi. Thank u it is very professionally. Can we see in next video how u make thread throw poxy? Let me ask question when u will make thread, size of whole it is same to size of bolt? Thank u
When it comes to bolts and threads, typically the size of the hole is slightly larger than the size of the bolt. This allows for the bolt to fit into the hole easily without binding, while still providing enough contact area for a secure connection.
@@BornAgainBoating thanks
Nothing in this world is more permanent than a temporary fix that works
Marinetex works for me for a permanent fix! Fast drying as well!
When the epoxy filling is done what do you use finally - screw or bolt with machine thread ? What is more strong?
Hello! Rose here, assisting Aaron with comments. Fantastic question! It's going on our podcast feature list. Haven't checked it out yet? Subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Bolt is best into an epoxy sealed rivnut.
been awhile since you used those west pumps
Lol yeah
The zip tie was a good idea. You could cut a small square wood piece as a backing plate, then screws. Then use some caulking around screw head.
I have a brand new boat, when installing a composite transducer block, a screw broke off into the transom, how should I fix this?
Greetings! Rose here, expressing gratitude for your comment! However, I'm unable to address your specific question, but I have saved it to be answered in more details on our podcast channel in an upcoming episode.
Click the link below to subscribe if you haven't already🙏
www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Why not drill the hole bigger and install a pre-bulbed rivnut?
You could do that too!
That is what I do. Especially if you planning to use the same holes.
You can use a large countersink bit to clean out the old hole and create more surface area for bonding. When there is foam behind it, use a small Allen wrench chucked into a drill, insert it in the hole and clear away a small pocket for the epoxy to fill.
Great tip!
Take an L alien key or bend a nail, put it through the hole and span it onto your driller. Now run it to get space behind. Now take your putty into a tough plastic bag (eg freezer bags) and cut a very small corner. Now press your putty into the hole till it comes out, even it out. Let dry and drill hole new. Now you have much more material the screw is holding on.
What about threaded insert
That'll work too! I like making videos like this because when you go to make them you can only think of 5 or 6 things and then after making them people comment like 10 more different ways you forgot about lol :)
@BornAgainBoating all good brother. I get what you're saying. Though, I will definitely revisit my rod holder on the back of my boat and change it to a machined bolt with washer and nut.
tip, use machine screws after first using a matching tap
hey budy could we just use instant putty filler?!
Depending on the puddy, yes, make sure it's weather resistant, and also how it is once it dries, how hard it dries, etc.
@@BornAgainBoating thnk u
Can you do a video on your method of cleaning, priming, and painting a lower unit and what products you use?
Tomorrow :) I'm spraying it with cans though, because I want to show more people how to do it at home that don't have an air compressor, paint gun, and money to buy All Grip :)
@@BornAgainBoating lol fair enough. Maybe someday we’ll get a pro finish video? Lol God bless man keep up the good work
White JB Weld would be good option!
I love stainless steel rivnuts. Check them out
Epoxy filler and rawblug
Love the zip tie trick. Never thought of that before
It's nice to have multiple tricks up your sleeve :) You never know when you might need to use one lol :)
Interesting, thanks for sharing. I am going to get some of that epoxy and hardener just to have on hand.
You should bro!
will epoxy filler stick to polyester fiberglass hull?
Yup, I always get that mixed up too, it's polyester that doesn't stick to the epoxy. Most boats are all made out of polyester resin, so epoxy pretty much sticks to everything. But it is also usually talking about paint, gelcoat, and the coatings when people talk about poly not sticking to epoxy.
@@BornAgainBoating thanks! I fixed deep keel gelcoat scratches with epoxy gelcoat, than thought that maybe I should have used polyester based, but after a year the keel still looks fine, nothing fell off.
Hi! Is it not possible to take a dowel and just put it in the hole and fix it with that.
😊
That’s what I use Dow and epoxy. Pre drill done.
Yup, like he said, with epoxy :) also remember wood rots, depending on where you need it too go, could factor in there :) but soaked in epoxy, should last many many years!
thank you
You're welcome
Dowel rod and epoxy works well.
Great tip! 100%
I'm not going to lie watching him try to put the epoxy into the syringe with a straw what's the most infuriating thing that I've seen all day, it's a syringe bro just suck it up. 😭
Love hindsight :)
👍
Why don't you just suck up the resin with the syringe instead of struggling to poke it in with a stick ?
Just move it over a little to to good glass. Done. Why the holes busted out is because the rod holder was installed without bedding compound (like 4200). At least some silicone. It will hold it instead of the screws
Some of us prefer not to just keep drilling new holes in our boats.
You could do that
Pro Hacks ... use a zip tie LOL. Make SURE THIS guy NEVER works on your boat. Even at the final fix with resin, this person is an amatuer that obviously doesn't do fiberglass repairs routinely. There are structural fillers for epoxy and fairing fillers. Gomer here doesn't know the difference.
5200
I have used 5200 and it works. Or depending of the situation I use Stainless Steel threated inserts, T-nuts, or Petal rivets nuts for thinner fiber glass.
Not in rod holders or anything that may need to be removed later. Use the 3M 4200 instead. 5200 is permanent and must be removed mechanically.
No screws, nuts and bolts = permanent fix. :)
J b weld works better and cheaper
Not ‘teeth’. ‘Threads’ is the word that you’re looking for.
Thank you! :)
A bigger screw never works