SAILBOAT MAINTENANCE: Replacing the stern seal, cutlass bearing, and aligning the prop shaft. #74
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- Опубликовано: 23 янв 2021
- Welcome to the yard, and one of the first project of our season prep! Ryan wanted to change the cutlass bearing, which was due for a replacement after 13 years of good and loyal services.
Since replacing the cutlass bearing involved removing the prop shaft, this seemed to be a good opportunity to also change the stern seal and learn how to align the prop shaft to the engine.
We also changed the engine mounts, gave the prop and the shaft a good clean as well as cleaning anodes.
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Развлечения
How can you not have an absolute crush with the little lady.
Great video, I'm about 3 years behind you - just done the cutless bearing and dripless seal, next job is to attach the Propshaft to the Coupling, to the Flexible Coupler, to the Gearbox and check alignments! Sadly not in as exotic a location, but it is a PITA wherever you are!! Fair winds ⛵
This video had the old Polar Seal light, fun and enjoyable feel that got me hooked on the channel. Super job by Ryan capturing the action and then Sophie’s editing was first class. 👍
Fun, good to see Ryan more in his natural element, too.
I’ve replaced the cutlass bearing on Beneteaus before without pulling the shaft. You can use windex or dish detergent to slip it in. Use a piece of lumber with a hole cut in it to go around the shaft and tap it in place. I vote all the oopses. Makes it fun to watch.
Tap into place? You are damaging the internals of the transmission...NEVER use a hammer to install a Cutlass bearing, it is to be PRESSED in.
Short story. We stopped in a Marina to have the cutlasses Bering replaced. The job went well. A few days out at sea the prop shaft slipped out and we started taking on water. Fortunately we had mans best friend a Potatoe. We jammed it into the hole and made it to our destination
damn, that's no good!
When aligning the shaft after using the feeler gauge you are close but not close enough. A proper alignment will take a dial indicator. Look up Sigma Drive in the long run this will save you a lot of trouble . Just a little vibration in the shaft or coupling well ruin bearings which can very expensive to replace. When you hit the water every thing changes that is plus for the Sigma Drive.
I enjoyed you video and one of the things I noticed that although this was the first time you had done this. You had researched so you knew what had to be done.
Great call to change the bearings; it really sucks to splash the boat, find a sweet spot, pop a beer and when everything calms down you'll (might) hear the small insignificant sound of water flowing somewhere.... You might search for the source - or think that it's sounds from outside the hull...
And in the morning - you have a huge mess to tend to and an emergency booking back at the yard.
True story...
Great episode. Did you forget the rope cutter? Cant wait for more.
Ryan great job. If you get some time you should look at a product call Prop Speed. It's a bit expensive but I have used it twice now and I really like it. Best wishes. Stay safe.
Puller not long enougj wanted to hook behind the propeller hub. Now idea changed hook up after the blade axis… thanks to this vid
.... WoW .... Ryan the teacher having fun doing doing jobs and showing the step by step and that didn't work, we'll have to do that again and still smillin and havin a good time .. thinking back to the early days when Sophie had the camera on you and there was that black cloud ... Man oh man have you come into your own .... and Sophie I have gotta say your ability to find sound effects and audio to accent the scene is impeccable ... Oh and Yes Sophie totally enjoy your rubbing in the temperature. Am sitting up here just above the 54th parallel .. smilin .... thanks for giving a peek into your lives .. as always .. never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans ....
Helping my old man on the Juanita and now watching you.... I am 100% sail drive!
hello Ryan - good work (!)
there are not so many, who measure the air gap correctly with a feeler gauge - congratulations :-)
2:16 oh, oh, oh - Josh from SV Nandji had the same problem ...
9:22 oha, Markus on the winch - so, THEN Sophie and Julia are on a Shopingtrip... LOL
have a good time - my best regards
Good job and great video......well done Ryan
Austrian Engine Lifting Power ;-) Great Video, folks! Thanx very much!
2:22 any time you have two wrenches/keys etc to loosen a thread have the two levers about 30° open so that the force to open closes that angle plus in this case you want both levers at the botom, not at the top. For smaller bolts you can even have that openeng angle between tools much smaler that you can grasp both in one hand and squeeze them together.
I've been assembling and servicing machinery for 30 years.
O
Ryan, nice to see you seemingly a bit more relaxed and less angry & frustrated .... keep it up mate ;)
Can you make a video about the tools you keep with you on the boat?
I think you two are just so happy to be home that you even enjoy doing the jobs. Good for you guys. Happy to see you back. 😘
It’s nice to see happy smiling faces and having fun....... for a change..... even when you don’t get it right.......
And nice to see the other side of Ryan...... who normally try’s to be the cool silent type
Ryan its nice to see you a bit happier and not doom & gloom well done Guys
Sophie, Sophie, Sophie, your such a 'jambon' in front of that camera. DON"T stop! Honourable mention to Ryan, he does seem at bit happier when he's into a project. Well.. maybe more so when it's finished, but happy none he less. Glad you two are back on the air. Stay healthy. :-)
Ryan you are getting a handle on this whole video blog thing, great format and good explanations of what is going on. Thank you
Good job Sophie & Ryan 👍👏👏👏. I saw Markus was helping lifting the engine up. Wish you fair winds all ⛵
Another trick - a big hose / duct screw clamp to go around the jaws of the gear puller to hold them in while aligning the gear puller.. Push comes to shove - top of a soda bottle (2 liter), inner tube from a tire, bike tube with a clamp.
Great episode. I loved how you shared what you would do differently next time so that everyone learns with you.
You guys look miserably happy again.
It's a tough life living the dream! :D
Bang on Dawson - I feel for them.
Thank you Ryan for all your detail explanations and showing all challenges on the maintenance.
Haven't you have filmed the check of the rudder? I would be very curious if it's conditions after the strain of your first Atlantic crossing.
Again, thank you so much for putting you out of the comfort zone and film everything.
And thank you Sophie for the timely editing and for keeping the fun going with maintenance videos and the fun snippets with Ryan's challenges with filming :-D
This channel, after binge-watching you for all the seasons, became the best hub if references for my project: crossing the Atlantic from NL to Brazil. I even got the toilet 🚽 shirt 😅
I figured Markus and Julia would run into you guys! That‘s how the Insieme crew learns how to fix things! Nice video!
Great dry humor, keep things fun. Thanks
Great job!
Since all the major rubber makers say to change all rubber parts every 5 years regardless of wear...yes, changing the engine mounts is excellent PM.
A really good video....probably would need to soak the shaft coupling for a few days with PB Blaster or the like and then apply heat.
I have an auto prop for which there is a prop remover kit that bolts to where the prop anode sits at the shaft end (with the anode removed). A bolt then screws into the mounted-unit to push the prop off.....might want to look if it would work on your prop or if there is a similar prop manufacturer supplied tool to remove your prop.
One criticism......put terminal covers on that starting battery ( in fact all batteries). Handing tools and man-handling a prop shaft with two exposed battery terminals could result in some unplanned welding.
Sofie, you’re hilarious! 😄
Haha! Fantastiskt - vi håller på med exakt samma lista, men ett år senare - typ samma problem också (förutom att vi även hade ett cementfundament under rodret för att göra det extra jävligt... (vad är oddsen)). Superfina videos - tack för att ni delar!
Wish we were this happy doing boat work!
Great video and nice work Ryan and Sophie on the shaft and engine mounts. I'm sure you saved some dough. This is so informative especially for those of us who own a similar Beneteau. We are finally starting to cruise our B-40 to the Bahamas and I can't emphasize enough how important the engine and propulsion system is. You are staying on top of the preventative maintenance and kudos to you for that! Thanks so much for putting this all on an entertaining and informative video. I'm looking forward to the rudder shaft video.
You explain these issues well, well done
Nice. Great balance of humour and reality!
You are funny especially Sophie
Very nice to see Julia and Markus helping you. Currently a hot spot for YT peeps....
Lot of us here.. thats for sure... ryan
Good job guys :) Those kind of boat jobs can really beat you down until it's done, then it's really uplifting with a great sense of achievement. At least for us.
Ryan is supercool with the camera 👌 Awesome stuff 👏
Excellent job with the seal changes - every day is a learning day huh?
Well done mastering the camera too Ryan 😁
Great to see you back... stay safe!
Fair play on doing things yourself
Need any advise on mechanical bearings, removal or equipment just give me a shout
Peter is bang-on, lovely to see you both enjoying yourselves and SO much happier, looking forward to the next few videos (& I don't even sail)!!
Good job done in an entertaining, (and educational!) way, as usual. Looking forward to more videos from Rayan and Sophie.
Great time to take the shaft to an engineering shop to get it balanced on a lathe.
Great video. I had this done on my Oceanis 40 to change the shaft seal. Had to use heat to release the gearbox couplng from the shaft which worked - however the heat damaged the gearbox flange seal which was only discovered when everything was reassembled resulting in a massive gearbox oil leak as soon as the engine was started. We live and learn! These videos are super informative...please keep them coming
Oh I feel your pain! In any boat project there is a risk to f*ck up something you wanted to improve. We’ve all been there :)
Recommend you to put some marine lub onto the "teeths" on the prop blades. It will make the folding prop to expand at very low RPM's and get a grip into the water. Handy when in reverse and low RPM. Good work!
Don't forget to "burp" that volvo stern gland when it's in the water.
With a needle dial indicator
Crazy tip... If you could install a second shaft seal that spins aimlessly. Then when the shaft seal fails at sea, cut the old one away and move back your spare. I was able to to this on my tides marine shaft seal. However, my set up is is easier for this trick.
I heard that if you do this the rubber on the spare is aging and hardening as well...
A most useful, basic tool to augment your wrenches is a 'snipe'. Or maybe two of them. It's a one-meter (coated) steel pipe with ID just big enough to fit around the handle of the largest wrench. Gives you some useful leverage. Standard 13th birthday gift for a farm boy.
Might also be a good idea to carry an appropriate air compressor on board with appropriate regulator(s), to both feed a hookah shallow-dive air hose and power impact air tools. For any sort of moderate to heavy mechanical work on a boat or road vehicle or farm/logging/mine equipment impacts are essential. I have both a corded electric and and air-powered one. For quick, one-time use I prefer the electric one, but for cramped or multiple uses that day I'd prefer the air one. You'd need up to 12 amps of 120 VAC power for the electric one though, with peak load that could fry your inverter(s). And it would probably degrade fast in a salty moist marine environment. Better to set yourself up with compressor and impacts.
Then you could plug in all sorts of other tools too as needed (borrowed or rented) to run off compressed air. Impact chisels, flat/shallow screwdrivers, sprayers, tire (schraeder valve) fitting, underwater hoisting air bags, etc etc. A compressed air tank could even be used as a backup means for starting a diesel. - That's how many large industrial ones, for site power generation backup or for drilling rigs for example, are started.
Dish washing soap helps a lot when sliding things in an out of rubber parts. I believe second shaft pull could be avoided. Nice work with the videos. Fair Winds. ⛵️🤞🏻
Live and learn. Not always fun, but definitely educational. Good job!
Good job! I would just caution people who have not done it before, not to stand directly behind the prop while using the puller. Also, to continuously tap on the prop as you apply pressure with the puller. The prop can launch very hard off the shaft!
Good job Ryan. Very good instruction.
Hey thanks for all the good work always , you’ve been keeping up a great channel and I hope you keep going, always great work !
Thnks guys!
Perfect timing! I'm about to do the same on my Beneteau.Great video.
Thanks guys. See you next week.
What torque (Nm or ft-lbs) did you tighten the prop nut and the capscrews to? It looked like there was a cone fitting between the end of the shaft and the bronze prop assembly. There's probably a required torque range that would properly deform/strain the nut threads enough to keep that on (unless it was a castle nut), and to friction-seat the prop cone to the shaft. Which is the reason you needed snipes to get it off in the first place. (Smacking the joint with a hammer probably just released the friction hold of the prop to the shaft, like you'd do with the cone joint on the upper control arm on some trucks).
IMHO Mantus anchors changed the bolt design of their 2-piece from M1 to M2 to eliminate the need to precisely measure applied torque to keep the nuts on properly, from a 6-count strain loading to a one-bolt perpendicular shear loading & nut secured by a cotter pin.
I commend you both, that was a hard job, one I usually leave to the boat yard. But you are both mechanically inclined and you both have perseverance, therefore, you can accomplish anything. Job well done.
Great video! Useful and fun to watch! Good too see you guys “back at home” again. :)
Love your work Ryan 👏🏻👏🏻
Great video Ryan with some awesome tips
Bravo les Gars ! joli travail !
When you said to Ryan: "Well, that's reassuring"... I almost lost my Coffee as I was Mid-Sip 🤣💦
Gosh Dam we're glad you two are back!!! The Wife & I have so missed your sense of Humor and
wonderful Smile! Best wishes from CA, USA Cheers 🍻
Yay! Boat projects!! Love it! 🎆🎉 Thanks for sharing the fun! 😉😄
You missed one of the most important parts when re-assembling LOCTITE all the bolts on the prop in place. We used Loctite 243, or should I say the Volvo technician did.
I did thought about it.
True... I did put loctite on all teh bolts... this may have been edited out. ryan
@@RyanSophieSailing Phew, I was not looking forward to the Our prop Dropped Off episode.
Good job , well done. Say hello to Markus and Julia from us.
Can you tell us why you went with what looks like a greased stern gland instead of, say, a PSS?
Great video, loved it's sense of fun and humour.
Much love from Cornwall UK
Hi guys,
I think that a little bit of heat from a blowtorch will get the coupling off from the shaft.
Good luck and fair winds from The Netherlands
Interesting and informative.
It is impossible to keep the shaft lined up over the long haul. The adjustments are just too fine. It is best to buy something called a Sigma Drive as it is a miracle. My friend saved 25k in maintenance costs over three years on his motor yacht. It saves the engine bearings, motor mounts, cutlass bearing, shaft, stuffing box, etc. The noise level is also typically reduced by 30 percent. Also I don't know if it is required for your prop, but did you put thread lock on the set screws? Typically it makes a difference in helping the prop not fall off.
Sorry Sophie but Ryan has lifted his game. You'll have to give way to more Ryan face time from here on. Lol.
The stave bearing could be installed using the old one as a mandrel by tapping on it. It is necessary to align the shaft when the boat is in the water, because the hull is curved on the stands.
upd After watching the video to the end, I saw that you know)))
Good instructional video.
Oh well, seems like the RUclips boating world is quite small....that blond guy that's Markus from "Sailing Insieme" 😉 and his wife Julia helped outside on the seal. However, great work!
It sure is... we have known those guys a long time.
My SOP is simple: I see new R&S, I save to a watch list and click Like!
"Jesus." For one minute there, I thought JFK was operating the winch!!
I was bellowing CUTLASS at the screen there, you might find a rechargable impact gun handy for stuff like that, I was worried you might scuff you shaft up using the pipe wrench on it too just thinking if you ever had to pass a seal down over it at some point and to be honest I got a realy good marine engineer to do the final alighnment on the Brenda C as it had to be perfect as I don't have any flexible mounts or cuoplings, great job of the job and the video
Lekker man lekker
Hey Ryan, Hope you are both well. Really enjoying the videos. One thing that is really bugging me and I might be missing something here but my question is, why on earth isn't there a universal joint on the prop shaft joining to the gearbox like on any car or truck which makes the critical allingnment unessessary. Is this something on the Beneteau or are all yachts the same?
Sioux, yeah yeah!
I am now convinced I want an electric boat.
I just did about the same to my boat, destroyed 3 cheap gear pullers, until I bought an expensive one which did the job without problems.
Just FYI, a cutlass is a sword, the name brand of the bearing is Cutless
Hey Ryan, You should try some Propspeed on your propeller and shaft. Amazing stuff .. no barnacles or growth for 18months ...like non !
Regarding gearbox and shaft alignment, I remember once watching a large 2-inch steel mounting plate on top of a meter-thick concrete mount being painstakingly machined flat to a fraction of a thousandth of an inch, by a specialty company. That was to support and perfectly align both an 11kV motor and large pump bolted to it. The whole pump house was heated and kept to 20 degrees C for 4 days to stabilize the mount and metal.
But with all the headaches and heartaches caused by shafts and couplings and seals, I'd like to see a electric pod system that is now used by cruise ships and freighters being more extensively introduced to the consumer yacht segment. www.nauticexpo.com/boat-manufacturer/ship-pod-drive-20116.html No direct mechanical connection at all, just [flexible] electric cabling between the genset and underwater drive pod.
The electric genset/engine (or two) could be mounted anywhere fore/aft in the boat in any orientation that made structural and weight-balance sense. House/propulsion loads to be dynamically split instantaneously between gensets by power electronics as needed. (Yes Virginia, no more 12v systems and big freaking expensive battery banks). An aft-mounted propulsion pod could be raised completely out of the water (like a sterndrive 'leg') to eliminate all drag and growth/barnacles and rope snagging when under way by sail. The pod itself could be rotated into any direction as needed for tight maneuvering. Even one could be installed forward instead of a bow thruster, to be used as a backup for the aft pod when under repair and to assist in tight maneuvering, but with much more power available.
$.02
excellent ingenuity , hope I never have to do it :)
Note to boat owner; "before you do anything, you have to move everything". Cheers
So true
i manage to put new cutlass bearing in using dish washing liquid no need to remove shaft
Love seeing Ryan being goofy with the camera. Nice to see him smile when its on.
Love the projects, or course, I’m not doing them. But really, like watching the project video’s.. Ryan seems more chilled, that’s cool. I wondered where the engine mounts were replaced in the video, obviously when you raised the engine but I must have missed that. Was it hard to get them set and elevated to the correct height? I kinda know what you mean about creating video’s, mins and hours of filming, and seconds of actual film, sucks…..
Keep them coming, I love them...
You should have put more grease on everything that you installed and add the non-permanent lock-tight to you propeller so it doesn't come undone!!!!
Nice engine lift ya got there. What I watch for is to learn, thanks. When will you splash?
Great job guys.