No Small Jobs, Propeller Shaft Alignment - Episode 249 - Acorn to Arabella: Journey of a Wooden Boat
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2023
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It's more complicated than one would think to make an existing hole a little bigger, but Joe the Machinist and Steve take it on this week as the propeller shaft comes into alignment with where the diesel engine will permanently sit. Of course, we need to know where the propeller shaft comes out in order to make the final adjustments on the position of the diesel engine on its beds and mounts.
Still in the rotation of current projects is the finish work on the coach roof, the framing for the hatches on the coach roof, and all the good planning to keep the inside of this sailboat dry for comfort and easy annual boat maintenance.
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Acorn to Arabella is a wooden boat building project taking place in Granby, Massachusetts. Steve started as an amateur wooden boat builder building a 38' wooden sailboat in his backyard: designer William Atkin's Ingrid with a Stormy Petrel's gaff rig. These videos follow the journey from tree felling, to lumber milling, to lofting, to the lead keel pour and beyond-sharing details of the woodworking, carpentry, metal smithing, tool building, and tool maintenance that classic wooden boats command. This ultimate DIY boatbuilding project will continue well past launch, when he and the crew will travel and learn to cruise aboard the handmade wooden boat that they've built. Just kidding about all that, this channel is about a Siberian Laika named Akiva.
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Homemade line boring setup. Joe is a genius.
Just a tip with hose clamps: Alternate the screws 180 degrees apart from one another. If the forward clamp's screw is on the starboard, put the aft clamp's screw on the port. This will minimize the chance of any trickle making its way through. It certainly isn't a big issue with low pressures like at the packing gland, but it's always a good practice.
Cheers and thanks for another great video!
Everything takes longer in the colder weather! Roll on Summer!!!
I have seen many instances of people making the cutlass bearing an interference fit. It only gets tighter over time and becomes a nightmare to change. I would recommend a slide fit (as you had) and stop the bearing rotating using grub screws. The way you have done it, if the epoxy fails the bearing will rotate and not only goose the bearing but also the housing. Yours Aye, Buster.
Such a useful and civilized insight into how hard, long and rewarding it is to do a proper job.
Ben, your tongue-in-cheek labels for Steve are the icing on the cake of your awesome video production skills. Keep up the great work! (You too Steve) :)
There's not another channel that I have watched every single video on like this one, and I've never even sailed on a sailboat. I love the journey you've taken us on throughout the years. Thank you Steve and team for the hours upon hours of content you've given us over the years.
I absolutely agree with your sentiments. I have watched for quite a long time and have enjoyed every minute!
i agree with this 100%. the closest I've been to a boat is feeding the ducks at the jetties as a child (bar ferry crossings). But watching this start from a few guys pouring lead into a hole in the ground in the back yard, grow into this combination of skill, art, talent and shear beauty has been incredible.
@@Rob13252 "a few guys pouring lead into a hole in the ground in the back yard" This is where I started watching too. From the CBS clip I saw the other morning it sounds like it was the 'Big Break' they had on viewers.
I don't even like boats and I've watched since the keel pour and went back to the beginning to binge up to that point.
I feel the same this channel and sv seeker you get to see both sides of the spectrum wooden sailboat and metal Chinese junker
Keep chipping away Steve.
Little victories.
You’re doing a terrific job.
I used to install prop shafts on narrow boat’s in the UK and can tell you it’s not an easy task to get right, I think you got it right, above and beyond I would say, you won’t be sinking any time soon 👍
Those are sooooo cool, Steven!! -Anne
Quality !
That sigh of relief will go down in Arabella lore.
A simple suggestion - no matter how you solve the forward hatch drainage - build or procure a lightweight, low profile cover for the hatch cover. This can be put in place whenever the front hatch light is not needed and will greatly extend the life of your custom-made hatch by keeping both water and UV light iff of it.
Agree…the water trap will leak in a few months.
I finally found something I can give some advice on. I was always taught to oppose the screws on worm clamps by 180° when they’re doubled up since each one doesn’t give exact 360° pressure.
👍
A victory for Steve is a victory for all! Well done, Sir, congratulations!!
Cheers and happy Friday, Charles!
Good morning Arabella crew and fans! The coffee is delicious and the entertainment is on par. Missing seeing KP on the job. Get better soon KP. And Steve I continue to pray for your mother. I really want to see her take that first ride with you. That would be such a monumental event. Hold tight Momma,Steve is working as fast and carefully as he can.💓💓💓
Happy Friday, Kathy!
Wonderful words.🥰 Thanks from one of the fans🤗
Steve TIP : for you for the sky light hatch. 🤔🤔Have a UV resistant acrylic cover / lid vacuum thermoformed 1" inch higher than the frame. Attach two stainless steel handles on each side on top use O-rings to seal and cushion around the screws. If made right. 🤞🤞This should fit over the sky light frame tightly no screws or glue needed. 👉👉May need to round the corners of the wood frame slightly. This will keep rain and spray off the sky light hatch and still shows off the wood frame.❓❓If it needs to be secured on for heavy weather. Drill two holes on the sides for two thumb screws and wood nut inserts in the frame.
Thanks Steve for answering every question that came into my mind during that episode
Next week’s job title: MIND READER. 😊
GADS! What an alignment procedure!
After multiple attempts to get the Patreon site to accept my credit card for a monthly donation, I gave up and sent a one-time donation. I will continue trying to make a monthly gift. I continue to be impressed with your work and energy to bring Arabella to the water. Keep up your great work.
Thank you for your support, David! Sorry you met friction there.
Using PayPal works for me.
Winner , winner , chicken dinner! Great problem solving!
Lovely to see the combination of Dolfinite & anti-fouling paint coming back into play again - that deep red, and the peanut butter texture always say "something's going to be attached in final position" for me!
Best wishes to all there - I hope KP's feeling better, their presence in the episodes is missed; and that Steve & family are feeling the love of the whole project's fanbase.
Excellent problem-solving and craftsmanship!
Cheers!
I totally understand when you said I totally needed this win. Dealing with having cancer having small wins helps with offsetting all the stress and worry of the everyday trials of dealing with having cancer or worrying about someone you love having to deal with all that comes with living with fighting this battle.
My wife and I are keeping your mom and you in our daily prayers 🙏 and our 💕 hearts. God bless you and your mom,may God surround you both with his loving grace. We have asked that our entire congregation of over 2000 souls keep your mom and you in thier daily prayers for healing and strength as you travel on this journey. Love and hugs from us to you for being such a loving son.
love the fact you use old tools when you can.
They’re wonderful.
Hi Steve and crew. 2 suggestions (I'm sure you already know)... don't get too hung up on shaft alignment until after you're in the water, you'll have to redo it once the boat sits for a few days. And for the water trap on the hatch, you could simply hang a piece of wicking material of the edge. You'll be surprised how quickly if will drain any standing water.
Or use thicker acrylic for the hatch and rabbet the trim into it.
That’s a great tip!
Old heads and experience are a wonderful resource to have in your tool box, go get' em Joe. Greetings from down under
"Tooooooo complicated." I love it! Joe says it succinctly.
He’s good at succinct!
"Because, by the time we did it like we did it the other time, just the set up part, we'd be done this way.". Makes logical sense to me!
The cutlass bearing on my Catalina 30 was held in place in the shaft tube fitting with a set screw that jammed it in place. It never moved unless I loosened the set screw to slide out the bearing. The bearing was a pretty tight/close fit in the sleeve without the set screw, so a lot of tightening on the screw was not needed and was avoided.
As Melville said: “A whale ship was my Yale college and my Harvard”. This series has been a great education for me, all from the comfort of my couch. I can only imagine what it’s been to you and your team, from the first felled tree until now, and to the eduction that awaits you-and us-in sailing, navigation, upkeep, and travel.
Cheers, Frederick!
A creative solution indeed.
The innovation always amazes me.
Well shucks, thank you, Andrew!
I like the way you approach difficult stuff. No hesitation, just do it.
🙌
in "ten years" add slight pitch to the acrilic. It is some what flexable. Add small tubing in the wood trim on the edges for drainage. Great work, can't wait to see you sailing with your family.
Steve- your determination to get up every day and push forward with the project despite your personal situation with your mum is truly inspirational. Keep up the good work mate, everyone is behind you.
The level of engineering and attention to detail and quality continues to astound me regarding this project. And that's coming from an Engineer! Also Stephen's ability to look forward and schedule the project is amazing. And although that might be a function of RUclips video editing, that detailed mindset does shine through. I've watched every episode for years, and even inspired me to take to pilgrimage to visit the project. And each episode I'm more inspired and impressed at what Stephen has accomplished. Cheers my friend!!
Thanks for being here, Mike!
Good morning Steve. As you were describing the steps you were taking to smooth out the finish on the house top, I could not help but think about paraphrasing what a very smart and talented shipwright once opined. "You're not finishing a piano." Nonetheless, I understand that while no one else in the world might ever notice the miniscule imperfections, you will, and that's really all that matters. You are the consummate craftsman.
On the other hand, the cabin top is going to have an awful lot of eyeball time on it, once the flaws are seen they cant be unseen etc.
What a satisfying sound as that sleeve was hammered in! Lovely the way it rose in pitch with each stroke!
That was complicated. Looking good.
Brilliant transition at the beginning from grayscale to color with Steve appearing over his audio.
I’d strongly recommend a positive mechanical retention for your slightly loose-fit cutlass bearing, a grub screw or two is pretty normal.
We normally insert cutlasses with a smear of run-of-the-mill Sikaflex whatever grade, nothing special or clever, it doesn’t need to be a terribly strong bond because it’s got a huge surface area in contact. In fact it just makes it more of a pain to change if you make an unnecessarily strong bond,
The sort of fit that yours has isn’t at all unusual.
Just fyi, wear tends to accumulate more in the lower quadrant of a cutlass bearing due to the mass of the shaft and prop bearing on it, so bear that in mind when you’re checking for play down the track.
Hope that’s helpful!
Cheers, R. 😎👍🍻
🙌
100% agree on putting in a couple of set screws. It is a little late now, but do it when the cutless bearing wears out.
Other option is to knurl the inside of the bracket to make a tighter press fit as well
Hey Steve, nice job as always.
A little tip: (maybe someone already said this) The double hose-clamps on your rubber hose that seals the shaft should be in opposite directions around the hose. Put the screws on the two hose clamps on opposite sides of the hose with both of the screws facing up. That way the seal is a little better since they are not squishing the same part of the hose.
Big LOVE for your attention to details,Sir.
Happy Friday, A2A crew!
That smooth slide at the end. Nice. I could feel it from here. Best practice is to offset the rotation of your hose clamps. But I suspect that the guys who do your engine alignment will tell you that... and of course, this installation was just temporary for the test and for the video.
"It would have to be a pretty big wave."
Oh, you sweet summer child.
Happy Friday, Paul.
The cabin house looks awesome!
Thanks, Ross!
So glad you got the win!
🙌🎉
Great video! I got another A2A T-shirt in the mail this week and it’s none too soon as Spring is on the horizon!
Definitely not boring! Satisfying, so pleased for you to get this win, Stephen!
Wow, Steve, you've come come so far since the keel pour... You've probably thought of this but if not, don't forget to waterproof the crap out of that prop shaft bulge area for drippies and keep some spare hose clamps nearby for emergencies. Having spare hose clamps and bungs near EVERY water inlet is always a good idea incase something fails. Awesome show!
I like keeping my extra hose clamps in one extremely dry location. -Anne
What an expert who came, just at the right time, and had a practical solution.
Very cool seeing that precision work and it being a win for you. 👍
for the water trap you created, just put a weep hole though the side of the cherry outside so it can drain the window part. that way it turns from a water trap to a sort of water trap. :)
Great job! The hose clamps on the stuffing block should be changed so each pair is 180° offset. This way the rubber can’t “bunch” under the tightening screw.
Don't you love it when a plan comes together? Great job!
Nice Job Steve! Praying for your mom!
Good job Steve. Getting close now. The boat looks great! 👍
NIce job and all the better for good explations. Thanks guys
I love a good WIN!!!💪🏼
Glad it worked out for you. Love the attention to detail.
Keep up the great work!
!3:20 You could create a groove on the underside of the miters to make a weep hole to allow drainage.
Gotta give you props.. Great job!
I remember my time visiting the boat and helping out years ago. I helped clean the bronze shaft mount and it's nice to see it being installed.
Cheers, David!
Great work Steve!
That is so killer man. So happy for you with such a perfect fit up. Hopefully once the wood is hydrated it doesn't move too much
Glad that worked out in the end. Keep up the good work !
PHEW! I was holding my breath while you worked on getting that shaft to align properly. Your efforts should now give you years of reliable service.
Great job Love watching the building of the boat
Cherry is such a pleasant wood to work with.
Clever engineering and brilliant bit of improvising got the job done and I'm sure its gonna be perfect. So looking forward to seeing that shaft in action when your on the water. Good luck with the rest ,were here every Friday willing you on.
Acrylik becomes flexible at 110 °C and one can form a nice slightly curve to get the water off and if using 12 or 15mm you can use screws from below without any break through to hold it down into the sealant… Great progress!
👍
You can put some drain holes under that cherry trim for those glass trim pieces instead of having them just collect water. The cabin house i looking great that thing has been build well. Getting the propeller shaft and cutlass bearing all aligned is a great milestone thank God you have a good man like Joe along for the ride. Sure does makes things a little easier that's for sur
Joe is great!
Greetings from a sunny Bedfordshire.
Happy Friday, Nick!
*- Having zero nautical experience, this Packing Gland system design {**29:42**} is what I wanted to understand back years ago when I was first asking you about using Lignum Vitae for your Prop Bearing to get longevity between service interval, Steve. AND now you are there !*
*- I have been waiting for this...and now... Wow ! ! ! Hurrah.*
*- I am so happy for you. Congratulations.*
Lignum vitae is an interesting material more for bearing than for packing glands, and has been used to make HUGE cutlass bearings for things like tugboats. www.proboat.com/professional-boatbuilder-issue-no-166/ Enjoy! -Anne
@@AcornToArabella .
*- Yes, Agreed, Anne. Thank you for your kind reply.*
*- Steve would recognize I was linking the packing gland with a time two years ago.*
*- Back then I was concerned with fighting the rudder doing a bearing change far away from a port, or locating a bearing matching the sleve that Steve finally selected.*
*- I knew Lignum Vatae would outlast the boat and not have a longevity issue.*
*- That is why I encouraged him toward a contact of mine who does Lignum Vitae bearings for submarines and other such commercial vessles who knew of Steve's striving and would have given him the wood to fabricate the pads for $150.*
*- {At the time I was dumbfounded and wondering how packing glands work to keep the sea out}*
*- Now I understand how the rudder's set-up will allow for an easy & quick bearing change.*
*- Keeping an extra bearing on on board and the easy way the rudder is now designed to support such changes makes moot the bearing longevity problem, which Lignum Vitae can solve.*
Good Morning from Sandwich, MA
Hey there, Bud! Happy Friday.
In supporting you and the build...over the years I have purchased different 'T' shirts.....with my main goal of buying one of your pens......but at $85usd + shipping + exchange + my greedy government taxes it works out in my money at almost 3 times the price...but when you put up the request for the final push to get Arabella into the water...I said..."now or never". I bit the bullet and bought the Locust pen.....I got it 2 days ago.....what a beautiful bit of 'kit'.....A very heavy, well operating pen...it feels good in your hand.....so I want to thank you for the [second] most expensive pen I own.....(the first being a Mont Blanc my late brother gave me prior to his passing) ....I now have something of this series that will last well after you are sailing to New Zealand and the South Pacific Islands.
So glad you’re enjoying your pen, and we really appreciate your support!!
Acrylic is pretty easy to shape, in a heat box, you could slightly dome the "water trap hatch" say 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the centerline axis and use the same drain corner idea use on the hatch just aft.
"The Chasm"!! Sounds like the Grand Canyon or something as impressive! 🙂
Those tiny pry bars are so cute hahahaha!
very nice video
The wins come when you need them! Well done! Joe is such a treasure.
🙌he is!
Absolutely marvelous work!
I'd rec using butyl rubber between the acrylic and the cherry trim on the hatches. Extremely waterproof and still able to be removed. plus it moves with wood really well.
You may want to consider the non-perforated hose clamps for you stuffing box. They cost more but do not mar your rubber tube and they are stronger. These will develop surface corrosion.
Pretty much all hose clamps of any kind do.
@@AcornToArabella Just saying don't cheap out on the hose clamps, get the non-perforated ones. They are desired in this type of application on the stuffing box.
A2A has been a part of my life since March 23, 2016 when I subscribed and I have been watching religiously since. Good work on the prop shaft and bearings, Steve!!!
Glad you’re on the journey with us!
Congrats on another milestone.
Hand in there, and stay safe.
Wonderful! Thank you for sharing these “wins”!
Thanks for watching them!
Awesome job with tuning shaft tube an bearings.
That final exhale ❤️
like the art workers of tom sachs, it feels like you take the same reverence to this boat
Perhaps you could drill and install a small brass tube, or two, in the lip of the hatch cover to drain any standing water. You can see a similar approach in residential window sill drains.
Very nice and instructive but also inspiring…as always. Good luck!
Cheers! That’s very kind.
Nice job. Good precision and fit. A1
BTW: I just became a (minor) Patreon supporter. Because of the timeline I elected to pre-pay for the year. The signup was painless and it's literally the least we can do for this insane project.
Thank you so much, Matthew!!
Excellent stuff
Hi all. As ever, thanks A2A for continuing sharing the videos of the planning and tree-felling onward.
Haha, Not that kind of boring
Yes, as others are also pleading, please implement a solution now to avoid a that top-side water trap. Small diameter drilled horizontal drain holes or channels in the trim that Glen and Sarah made, or use different approach. Maybe simply leave the top of the transparent acrylic the highest area and as a flush surface to not trap water. Tell us if you truly want the water trap for getting samples of the overnight rain or sea splash.
Continue the awesomeness. Thanks for the several recent informative explanatory videos laying out the time line. Each week is a new treasure and always a delight to watch. You are every bit the consumate teacher, with your boat the current project and the world as the classroom, and all who view can be the well-taught students.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching!
Another most excellent video Team Arabella. Looking amazing.
🙌
Well done!
Nice job on getting the shaft bearing housings installed! A tip that I recommend to all of my clients is to use non perforated hose clamps, such as the Awab or Scandvick clamps. They are far stronger and provide even clamping pressure all the way around the hose. I've used them exclusively on my boats for years. You can get them from Defender
Some people in the comments here have suggested that those never rust. Haha I think you and I know better. They may last a little longer but everything’s subject to salt water’s ways. -Anne
@@AcornToArabella True like any stainless they can rust. They are however much stronger, apply even pressure around the hose and are less susceptible to corrosion,
A fine piece of engineering!
Great problem solving, keep it up
🙌
Nice job!