Foilcraft 101 - Feedback and Reflection
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- Опубликовано: 30 июл 2024
- Looking at my completed P-40 with my reflections on what I have learned about the foiling process, and answers to some of the comments and queries that have been posted on my Facebook page.
The glue ... www.wonderlandmodels.com/prod...
Years ago I was honored to meet an World War II veteran who piloted a P-40 what amazing stories he had to share.
Only just found your site, too. I'm extremely impressed with your efforts with the foil finish. You have achieved great strides in the technique. Please keep on posting your experiments. Very well done!
I think you did amazing. I have been making models since 1968. ButI after seeing your video, I'm going to do my Dad's B24 in foil. I have only watched two of your videos, but here is a technique they I do that really adds some interesting touches.I take Single wedge Razor Blades like Uline, and cut lightly the ailerons, elevators, rudder just enough for them to ben and look like they are in flight in a mild turn. It really gives it a cool touch.
Just as a note from an American - Reynolds makes foil in a variety of thicknesses so make sure you're getting the right one. It looks like your "UK kitchen foil" is about the same thickness as the regular reynolds foil. It would be a shame to go to the expense of importing it and getting the wrong one.
I would say that if you're looking at 15-20 pounds for a roll of foil, I would suggest you look to see if you can find a domestic alternative. That heavy duty roll only costs about 6 to 7 dollars here.
I got mine on a Detachment so I only paid I think $2 per roll, and have enough to last as long as I'll need it. Unfortunately the heavy foil over here always seems to have a pattern embossed on it - hence turning to the Reynolds wrap. I'm sure there are alternatives here, and I appreciate your input on it too :-)
I did this to a 1/24th scale Airfix p51 Mustang probably about 40 years ago. As a glue I used thinned oil based clear varnish on both surfaces. let it dry to a tacky feel and use it as a contact type adhesive. Ill give the Raynolds wrap a try though as sanding thin foil is kinda hard.
Very nicely done Jen. I have been foiling for several years and using the same materials as you show except the "glue spreader". lol I use a moistened flat brush (eliminates the brush marks) to apply the glue on the panel I, then attach a slightly oversized piece of foil. After burnishing , I "grain" the panel with 4/0 steel wool or sand paper. Your right in that you have to think about how your going to build and foil the model. I try to wrap the foil around the leading and trailing edges to eliminate the issues you mentioned when handling the model. I found a clear coat will not effect the the look and gives a cleaner mask line when painting and the decals adhere better. You can also patina the foil by soaking in bleach, darkening more buy adding a few lead fishing sinkers or adding some pennies to give it a copper color. Just don't soak for more then 2-3 hours or you'll have pin holes in the foil. I've done demonstrations at club meetings, but these guys say they can paint a NMF, but in the end it still looks like paint. Congratulations on your demonstrations and look forward to seeing more . Nothing looks like metal than metal. My first was a 1/32 Trumpeter English Electric F1A Lightning 56 Squadron "Firebirds" 1963 Demo Team.
Fantastic info Jack, your Lightning is beautiful too. This is definitely something I will revisit in a future build.
Thanks for your efforts, very informative. I am very impressed by what you have achieved, an great piece of work.
Pretty sure you are one decimal point off in the foil thickness: .02 vs .045 mm thick.
Offset sheet is .2 to .3 mm thick, and is not crinkly foil but stiff sheet aluminium.
I'm impressed with you videos. Valuable info here, if a bit rambly. Glad I found you. You got yourself a sub.
Well I'm rambly so......
Wow, wonderful modeling, and what a great idea. Well done
Hey, just came across your Chanel, not a aircraft guy, but like this metal foil video.. and also her you were in the military, so thank you for you service, keep make good videos, thanks
Thankyou Tim :-)
Cut up some acrylic sheet for dust covers cause your models are really worth protecting; Stanley blade will cut it ; I have a table saw but companies out there can do covers in Perspex very reasonable for THAT special model
Beautiful build!
Yes well done and you are good building. I never tried that.
Must try that one day. Meanwhile, I can't wait to see what you do with the Christmas turkey!
Fascinating video, like v much!
This is the second video I've watched by you and Like what I see. I have subscribed and look forward to watching more videos. I mostly build automobiles but I do build planes once in awhile. When I first started building many years ago it was building WWII planes. Take care.
Hi Dan, and welcome to the channel. I make all sorts of things, you can expect to see the odd car now and again
I was wondering about the foil going over the gun bay. Very impressive!
I won't lie, I was quite surprised myself as I was expecting trouble with those!
Well done! I wanne do that to my 3D Prints now
Thanks for the tip on the etching liquid. I'll look for some.
Really a nice job. Foiling the canopy is easy. Just mask it off carefully. Put the glue on the frame with a brush. Burnish it down hard and cut around the frame. It really adds a lot to the model.
Model on Jen.
I plan to! Thanks for the tips :-)
It might be possible that UK restaurants have access to heavier aluminum foil - industrial strength, as it were. In the U.S. Nuts come in a cardboard can that has a thick aluminum seal over the top that is nearly the full diameter of the can. I would recommend cutting it out rather than peeling off, as it is impossible not to distort the foil. It is not always smooth. And thank you for introducing me to many products.
It's always worth being on the lookout for things like that Dennis, there are many useful bits and bobs outside the modelling domain. Thick foil like that can be really useful for making seat harnesses and the like.
Wonderful foiling job on this P-40!
Watched all your foiling videos and found them very useful.
However the most interesting question still remains: How to foil high curvature surfaces, especially when they have double curvature, like spinners?
Wow that's amazing work to get that effect with foil really interested to try it myself
Give it a go Mark, it's great fun!
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft was it pva glue you used to apply the foil
@@RubyMarkLindMilly The glue use is Microscale foil adhesive. It is a type of PVA I think, but much stickier than normal.
www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/microscale-metal-foil-adhesive/
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft thanks a lot for that advice there's fella on youtube building a mustang and he's trying to find a way to do what you've done but you've made it sound simple which is fantastic in my opinion I've just subbed your channel and I'm looking forward to more stuff all the best Mark
Well I love it! Only way to go and your process is straight forward. By the way you are a great model builder!
I saw your other video too. I like how your videos are straight to the point without any silly music or gimmicks. I'm going to have a go at foil after seeing this, Ive got a 1:144 DC3 ill try it on. You have achieved some superb results well done.
Thankyou very much
Hi Jen, I think Lakeland’s foil tends to be thicker than average and readily available in the UK. You’re video is inspirational and I’m excited to try this out on a Tamiya P-38. I think I’ll have a go on something cheaper and a bit less curvy first though! Do you think the finish would work on a 1/72 or would you say 1/48 is pretty much the minimum in terms of scale? Thanks!
It definitely works in 72nd, without a doubt. I've done two models in that scale so far and both look great. Look up my Shark Mouthed Pony series to see for yourself...
I am so boiling eggs with foil and trying this out.Beautiful build.That really looks wonderful.!👍
Thank you so much 🤗
IN all cases of full sized application that I am ware of, aluminum needs a primer, so your experience is not a surprise.
Absolutely true, yes.
Fantastic tutorials and I’m going to try my hand at foiling due to your videos. Thanks very much 👍🏼 Ian
Brasso? Duroglit? Did you go to Colchester? 😂👍🏼
Not yet Bugler ;-)
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft only went there once as an escort. I was there two hours and that was enough for me! 😂
@@bugler75 They probably have duvets these days, you know how it is lol
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft times have definitely changed! But fair play to the guys and girls who still sign up.
I must say I really enjoy your approach to modelling and watching your videos. First class. Ian
could use the foil method for making an airfix EE/BAC Lightning?
Very much so Andy, in fact I plan to at some stage.
P 40 is bigger in scale.
I have a tip. I watched your vids on foiling (very good, btw) out of curiosity after a particularly hairy foiling job I had, channelling my inner Konstantin Bogdanov. I'm sure googl3 is spying on me... (weird coincidental suggestion, ty googl3) A Canadian fella, think his name was Eric (liked smushing stuff under foot, don't ask) used a soft rubber (pencil eraser) to press the foil into detail. I was sceptical too at first, but it works sooo good... spreading the load through the foil evenly avoiding rupture, especially into recessed detail. Sorry for the mansplain if it's tl:dr or you already knew this.
I have not seen that, no. I'll give it a look - thanks :)
I tried this 50 or 60 years ago using clear varnish but didn't have much success.
I can imagine Terry. I do occasionally use clear varnish as an adhesive, it can work quite well.
too much hard work , gloss black paint base and aluminium paint easier