*Quick Look Review* Fengda FE-183K - Another Stupidly Cheap Airbrush - But is it Worth Buying?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- In this video I take a quick look at the Fengda FE183K airbrush set. After the FE-180, here's another laughably cheap airbrush from Amazon, can an airbrush this cheap really be worth investing in?
Fengda FE183K - amzn.to/3x5zNHj
Airbrush Quick Release Airline Connectors - amzn.to/3lUcjhG
Inline MAC valve - amzn.to/3lRgNWz
Iwata Super Lube - amzn.to/3ziO3ex
WD-40 - amzn.to/35878SP
Music by Lee Wright Music - / @leewright5616
Great UK model shops
www.modelsfors...
anticsonline.uk
Had mine for 6 months now...
Very good value all rounder
I bought this purely based on the needle sizes thinking it would be good for priming large areas etc but it has become my go-to airbrush for everything! Granted I have never been able to justify (to myself let alone the wife!) a high end airbrush like the H&S I continually drool over so I have no real comparison to them, but for somebody like me who isn't interested in show worthy kits and who ends up donating the majority of their finish kits to the daughters bedroom ceiling "dog fight" it is ideal!
It is a genuinely decent brush. I will have another Fengda making an appearance here very soon...
You can easily paint show quality kits with any airbrush, the real challenge lies in whether you polish the cheaper needles with a metal polish like Brasso or Flitz. I have a few Neoeco's and they are amazing outta the box and even better after a polish. I have a cheaper version of this model as well as a 186k from Bartsmart and all work great.
The good ol Paasche H still wins me ribbons and chips in Car shows and Military models, it's a great base and finish coat brush and will last you decades. Don't weat the cheap brushes they work just fine and can easily be made to give a mirror finish even with Kandies.
A very helpful video for an old codge and railway modeller..... I`ve just retired my 35yearold Badger 200 and my Aztec 470 as the spares are no longer available. As a result of your video I`ve bought a Fengda FE183 and was so impressed with airbrushing Acrylics on my O Gauge kit builds... I bought a second...first time I`ve learnt about using WD and polishing the needle which has very much improved my Badger 155 Anthem . So thanks a lot. JT.
Thanks for your review was looking to buy this on Amazon anyway but found your review before taking the plunge so I’ve clicked on your link to make my purchase nice straight talking and to the point 👍
Same
Great review so much so it inspired me to order a 183 to go with the 2 Sparmax airbrushes I have. I’m impressed especially having followed your directions on lubricating it. Which has helped me get the best out my other brushes too!
Really appreciate this vid. Just bought it, new to airbrush, just want to use it for stenciling. Had some clogging, but diluting acrylic with water, so trying to find the right consistency and pressure. Thanks for the teardown, ohh and does feel better with WD40.
Hi Jen thanks for a great informative video, on the strength of the video I took the plunge and ordered 1 can say definitely not disappointed with my purchase
Just want to say a big thank you for this video....I'm an airbrush noob, and i have a couple of cheap airbrushes, not quite the same as this one, but just bought a mac valve you suggested! I will be using this vid several times as i learn what I'm doing! Thank you.
Jen I won the airbrush that you gave away I used it up till quite recently and have now upgraded to a better airbrush still works as good as when it was new and have used it a lot take care Dave
Hi David, that's great to hear, I'm really glad you've been getting some use from it!
Looks like a good buy. The nozzle set-up is very reminiscent of my H & S Infinity.
That floating nozzle looks suspiciously like an exact copy of an Iwata Eclipse
yes it's is, the entire front is exact copy of iwata hp cs, the body, the air valve, only thing is diferent is the cup
And for example Neo for Iwata is the exact Chineesium gun that costs 4 times more. And no, quality control is as almost as shit as the £20 ones. You don't get critically failed ones and the threadwork is a bit better, bet that aside, same tool.
I bought a Revell airbrush in 1999 that was a rebranded Thayer and Chandler. That had the same nozzle setup.
Got the same Airbrush and use this with the 0.8 for the primer mainly on 1-24 car body,s, or also for painting trucks and trailers, spec fridge trailer with a bit surface. And i am very happy with it,for me a good workhorse with a decent price-tag. I did polish the needle and clean it good after i am done. No complains from here,although with the smallest needle it is not perfoming as my H&S. But glad i bought it more than 1 year ago. And even when this one gives up,i don,t have to think twice to buy a exact the same new one. Great review
Exactly. I didn't expect true 0.3mm performance from it, but I don't need it for that so in this case it's irrelevant.
For the folk who are desperate for this brush, it is a generic brush and Bartsharp have it instock with their own branding stamp. Same brush. It's generically known as the 183
I finally have an answer to the question I asked Below, And yes and no is the answer, the dimensions are not identical, the threaded parts are not the same at all. the Fengda has shorter Threads, the nozzle cone and needle do "fit" but enough difference that air will leak., I'm Still happy with the Fengda and will primarily use it for metallics... as for the Iwata Eclipse, it may cost more but the performance is night and day.. just the trigger control and paint atomization alone more than make up the difference in price, in my Opinion. having said that, Fengda are definitely not "bad" airbrushes They Do what they are supposed to, better than many airbrushes at the same price point, it was money well spent.
Great review. Appreciate your time and effort. As a newbie getting started, this was really useful. Thanks 😊
That floating seat is the same as the Iwata Eclipse airbrush. I have been looking for a cheap alternative to the Eclipse because I love that floating seat. For some reason there are not many airbrushes out there built like that. Thank you for showing how that airbrush is built.
6:40 that nozzle set up is exactly like in an Iwata Eclipse (HP-CS in my case).
It should last!
Thank you for the review!
A few others have said the same. I've never owned an Eclipse so that's new info, but I figured it was 'ahem' copied from somewhere.
Do not be fooled, not even close, not interchangeable, get them creosote, or Mr hobby, they are identical to iwata.
Been there with these chech one years ago, I'll send you three for free. Total garbage
I do use and love a PointZero.2mm nozzle, and a 2cc cup/bowl, it looks like they have the same manufacturer as some parts it looks like will interchange and are identical. The PointZero uses a different nozzle setup, and has a cutout in front of the trigger. But it looks the same otherwise. The PointZero is less then $25 In USD!
Very Good review on the Fengda airbrush. I Need a new and cheap workhorse. You made my dessision easy, thanks for sharing your expertise.
Bought this one last week! Is my first ever airbrush so cant tell much about it except that it looks like decent quality.
Just wait, if you like air brushing start saving money get something better
Little late to the video but it was the size of the cup that caught the eye and wondered how the brush would get on with using Mr Surfacer. It looks like it maybe ideal for priming, especially larger aircraft.
It would spray Mr Surfacer ok with the bigger set up in it I'm sure
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft Thank you, think you've sold us on it and it's hard to resist for the price.
Mr Surfacer went through mine on Friday with the 0.3 nozzle and it went on brilliantly.
Oooooo! Watched the two Fengda videos and now I’m sat here, looking at two freshly delivered Airbrushes (a 183 and a 180)!
Well pleased with these and thanks for the call out and reviews....all delivered for under £50....really can’t complain with that and now I’ll break them down, Polish the needles and lube the innards....yeah, they’re just a little rough 😜
Thank you! 😘
Good luck with them. If painting potatoes it ok
Cheers just ordered one to replace my Paasche 20+yr old all seals are gone and two bent needles was stored away for years , only want it for models and scratch builds so hopefully it will be ok for my needs I'll polish the needles ...etc , then if I find myself really getting into modeling again big time I'll get a Iwata eclipse in a few months or so , but hopefully I can use this with Createx pearls and matalics for model cars and bikes but this video help me decide to get one of these for now so many thanks.
Got one following your review and yep, what a tool for that money.... Loving mine, very controllable and feels surprisingly well made. Coming with 3 needles and nozzles is amazing I can swap for the .8 for varnish and large batch priming, the .5 for base coating and use the .3 for the finer bits. So glad I didn't buy an expensive one now, seems to be the perfect first airbrush for a beginner like me.
Thanks again for doing this review 👍
Apparently this particular model is now under different store brand. Fenda store is no longer selling this model on Aliexpress, but search exact name resulted in NEOECO NCT-183K with exact identical box. I have bought two 0.5mm airbrush in the past and it keeps having paint flow problem with metallic and poly paint. Hopefully this will finally fix my problem.
Looks like a Badger design for the nozzle.
Thanks great video. Bought one recently
Thank you, Jen, that was really well presented. Do you think the seals will withstand cellulose thinners?
I see no reason why not Patrick, again I've heard nothing negative from my friends that use them.
That's a really well done review video - watched it through from start to finish in real time, which is quite a rare occurrence. I'm also going to Amazon via the link to buy one and subscribe to your channel. I'm impressed and hope to be equally impressed with the airbrush.
Hi Brian, I am perfectly sure you will be happy with it - let us know!
.8 could be useful to the 3ders crowd spraying resin over pla prints to smooth the print surface
To be honest not sure how it would hold up to resin... A Mini HLVP gun would probably be better suited to that sort of work. resin might just be too thick for even the 0.8 nozzle on this. at least that'd be my guess.
Good video. Bought one with your link. 👍
I'm tempted, but would like to buy a iwata eclipse.
If you can stretch to an Iwata then I would. I have two and they are superb
Then i buy the iwata eclipse. I want a good allound airbrush. I have H&S Evo, it's a good airbrush. But the trigger is a bit to close to the cup. Have it for 12 years now and sprayed almost very type of paint with it. I only had to replace to nozzle. The eclipse looks more versatile.
Just bought this and a Airgoo Luxury Airbrush Compressor AG-420 from amazon. After watching this post. The compressor looks ok but only one way to find out. I'm just getting back into modelling after a 40 year break and have subbed your channel
Many thanks, Jen - after watching your video I purchased one of these, and tried it out straight from the box, it worked beautifully. The action wasn't quite as smooth as silk, but it wasn't bad at all, I had good control with no sticking of the trigger. I will polish the needle & apply a bit of lube before I use it next - the larger nozzle sizes will be just the job for my 1/48 HK Lanc. Again, many thanks, keep up the good work!
Awesome review, gonna check these out thank you👍😁😊
Is this the same as the Bartsharp airbrush?
I don't know, as I've not seen or used a Bartsharp one. Never even heard of it to be honest...
What size of quick connect couple it use? Same size as the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS? Thanks in advance
Yes, the fittings are the same size as Iwata
Thanks for a genuinely useful video. I bought one on the strength of this and followed your lubrication advice and yes it's a great little brush for so little money, £24.99 now, it's come down in price a little
Good paint sprays well in a average airbrush.
A Good airbrush will spray average paint well.
Hi. I have bought exactly the same model. Your video greatly helped me put it all back together after stripping and cleaning before using. What is the normal way to quickly clean the airbrush between spraying colours ? - I can't imagine strip cleaning for each one !?! - thx
I empty any left over paint and wipe out the colour cup. Then add some thinners to suit whatever paint you're using and spray it through to wash the paint from the inside. Clean colour cup again and you're good to go.
Great review, thanks 👍
My only concern would be the O-Rings. They tend to fall apart over time.
If you check the website - www.airbrush-fengda.co.uk/ you will find all the parts for all the airbrushes. An entire nozzle with O-ring is under £5 and the O-ring only is 60p. The teflon packing is also available separately for £2.10. So I wouldn't worry too much ....
Jen,
Thank you for the link. I appreciate your help on this!@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft
Alsp Jen, How does one buy you a cup of coffee?
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft
Nice video, what kind of air compressor did you use with this air brush?
My compressor is an Iwata Sprint Jet pro, which I've had for several years. I'm hoping to test a Fengda compressor at some point.
Somehow mixed up the pieces. Was going from .5 to .3. Any chance of a vid of how to tell the 3 apart?
I'll look into it!
WD-40 is probably the worst thing you can apply to O-rings, the silicone is a GOOD thing, WD-40 perishes any rubber, and it loves to eat up O-rings.
For O-rings, silicone oil (or on thicker O-rings and threads, 2HT Silicone Grease, the thing professional photographers use on camera lens threads and O-rings) is the ONLY thing you should use.
It keeps the O-rings supple, flexible and swollen to their true size with a smooth fitting and action.
Petroleum or alcohol based lubricants (like WD-40 or anything generally aerosol-based) perishes rubber, leaving them cracked, shrunk, and/or splitting.
WD-40 is designed for metal-on-metal lubrication.
You want something with silicone in it to protect the O-rings and keep them supple, that'll extend the life of your O-rings and airbrush in general.
Silicone oil/grease for rubber, WD-40 for on metal-on-metal contact.
I use thin silicone gun oil on mine every time and as long as it's thin coat (that's all you need) you'll be fine.
2HT silicone grease is good for thicker O-rings (even the plunger, just apply it with an old paintbrush) and making threads airtight, I even use it on my hose and compressor threads, PTFE tape is for noobs, it's "bodgeineering", learn to seal properly.
With WD-40, you'll be replacing O-rings sooner than you should or need to as they'll just perish.
Thankyou for your post Retro. Please bear in mind though, that silicone is most definitely not good anywhere near paint - it causes all sorts of issues. That's why WD40 is useful, because it doesn't contain it.
It's also a bit of an urban myth that it eats O-rings. It will only potentially damage natural rubber components. The seals in any airbrush that is designed to be used with solvent based media will not have any issue with WD40, and especially not in the small amounts used.
Been using one for over a year, still performing faultlessly.
You are one of the ones I spoke of!
Hey! Thank you so much for the review, i’m just getting started and this helped a lot. Since you tried both the 180 and the 183, which one would you recommend and why?
I think I would go for the 180, I preferred the feel of that one in use. There isn't much in it though and as a newcomer I think either will be a good tool for learning the ropes.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft Thank you so much for the advice, I will go for the 180 then!
Been on Amazon and ordered one. 0.8 needle sounds just the job for priming Vulcans, Valiants and Victors.
Exactly! I have a Vulcan upcoming, and a Revell SR-71 ...
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft You might need the old Revell spraygun for the blackbird :)
Tnx for this vid, it really helped me. I like the non screw nozzle because I see me already break it. So I narrow my choices down to this one and a Harder&Steenbeck Ultra. Would you recommend this for someone who is planning to do on plane models on 1/144 and 1/200 scale and N-gauge (1/150-1/160) diorama railroad work? Or do you think a 0.2mm airbrush is more suitable?
A finer brush would definitely be more suited for small scale as you describe. This airbrush is more of a bread knife than a scalpel....
I have an Ultra and I'm replacing it with this. The ultra was my first brush and probably because of user error not working great now. In hindsight i would have preferred.3 or .5 needle instead which is a quite adequate for models even miniatures and less likely to clog especially if your a beginner like me. Usually I will be using it for priming, zenithal and basecoats.
That is, tempting, could you suggest an equally bargain price compressor?
I know that Fengda also sell compressors, but I haven't personally used one so I can't directly recommend it as such. Probably worth looking into though....
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft Thank you 😎
Thanks for the review.. just saw this airbrush on amazon for real cheap and was wondering if it was worth pressing the buy now button , think i will give it a shot, be great for primer , i just wonder if iwata eclipse nozzles would fit???
I don't have one to try it. If you do, let us all know if it works!
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft I don't have one either,(yet) .. But I did buy this fengda and I do like it with the 0.3 and 0.5 .. the 0.8 sprayed metal flakes and pearls not too badly... but I find the 0.3 and 0.5 better for primers.. I does what I want it to do... My only complaint is the ergonomics.. trigger is too far back for best possible comfort for longer airbrushing sessions just seems to feel wonky in the hand after awhile compared to my other Airbrushes. not sure if you found the same?
I'm looking at a first airbrush and have seen on some reviews of the H&S Ultra that a 'pinch tip' is essential to be able to easily clean paint dried on the tip - does this 183 have the same issue?
I'm not sure as I don't know what you mean by a pinch tip or how that relates to paint drying on the tip - sorry
excellent review Jen . May I say you have lovely hands , I watched a guy doing a plane last night and I thought he was building it with his feet ! 💛💙
Hello, how are you doing? I.got the same airbrush like a year and a half ago. It's a good airbrush. Recently I damaged the needle on it.
I put a 0.3 it didn't fit …on the nozzle that came install with the airbrush If you can, please help me out I don't know the size of the needle that came already installed with the airbrush hope to hear from you soon. Thank you.
Hi Tony, if you aren't sure on the size you need then I'd recommend getting a set of needle and nozzle. They are still quite cheap and it takes away any chance of getting the wrong one.
Oh k thxs I guess i’ll buy different size of needles and check it out
Hiya, great review!
Thanks for this really informative & relaxing to watch video! I'm searching for an airbrush to complement my H&S Ultra. I'd like to use it for priming and spraying base coats. Guess I found it! Thank you again! :)
I am guessing you're filming from your mobile phone , which tripod are you using ?
No, I use a video camera. I have it mounted overhead using a poseable arm basically.
What compressor would you recommend?
I use an Iwata compressor, before the current one I had another Iwata and before that a silent Revell one. All three have been excellent. I would suggest in all honesty to buy the best you can afford, very cheap ones can be had but just expect them not to last very long.
Great video, Jen. Since I live in the other side of the pond, just wondering if Fengda is sold in the US... 🤔
I don't know Juan, maybe worth checking American Amazon?
The PointZero Airbrush is as good for less money, I love my .2mm in a 2cc cup/bowl in a PointZero!
Ok what powers the compressed air. What is a basic air accessory to this value airbrush.
A compressor. I have an Iwata compressor under my bench. Fengda make compressors also, and I hope to find spare funds enough to review one at some point. The cheapest useful looking one they do is this one - amzn.to/3EkCNlb
Come today ok good for the price obviously but not sure how long it will last the needles look so very delicate but we will see ...!! I have put the 0.8 in to try Primmer later at 50/50 finger's crossed...
I have a couple of modelling buddies who have each been using one of these for over a year, so I don't think longevity is a major issue. Good luck with yours! 😃
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft Not sure why but mine will not pass normal Createx paint let alone pearls or primer even at 50/50 airbrushing paint thinners tryed 3 and 5 /8 setup, and 25 /35/ 40 psi just bubbles and spits so returning to Amazon spent more time cleaning it during testing than anything ,never mind looked good nice case shame ...etc , but it is what it is I guess ...All the best.
Ps...hmm maybe my Createx paint has gone bad it's a few years old now...!! As I tried some Tamiya paint and that went on really nice testing on some Primmed plastic sponges at 30 psi with 3 setup straight from the jar so will be keeping it so all's good...All the best.
I have just resprayed a whole pinball playfield consisting of 9 individual colours with Createx paints in this airbrush. At first I had some spitting and reduced flow. It turned out that the paint needed a little more thinning, and the new bottle of Createx white I bought was old stock and the paint had started separating/precipitating in the bottle, causing blockages. After thorough mixing and filtering of the white, the flow was consistently good. Also it helped to keep a small IPA soaked sponge nearby and dab the tip every few minutes, to avoid dry tip. After these corrections, I had no problems with this airbrush using the 0.8mm setup and spraying Createx, 1K HS primer, 2K HS clear coat with pearls, and 2k nitro automotive paint.@@karl53133
Do you know if the rings are in teflon or rubber?
All the O rings are rubber. I don't know what the needle packing is made from as I didn't remove it, but I would assume it is teflon or similar.
Hi, what compressor do you use in this video?
I use an Iwata Power Jet Pro. I would like to get around to trying out a cheaper one as not many people will want to spend Power Jet money on a compressor (I got a stonking deal on mine)
Hi there, have just come across your channel because of the SU-57 kit, just about to start one myself after i finish up this AH-64D Apache. With regards to the airbrush ive got abit of a general question if thats okay? The valve where the air line connects? is there a "correct" high for that to be screwed into the airbrush itself? Im using a H&S Ultra and have been having issues lately, ive troubleshooted everything i can find but i noticed that valve seemed "loose". I know fully tightening it in blocks the trigger but was just wondering if there a correct height i can set it, just to make sure its all correct
I had to think about this ... and the only answer I can come up with is no. On my Iwatas the tightness of the fitting will only affect the spring tension on the valve plunger. So in theory if you left it a little loose it might have an effect on the trigger feeling. Fully tightening it will not stop the air, not on an Iwata anyway.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft Thank you for replying. Yeah its the same on the Ultra, just stops me from pressing the trigger down if fully tightened. Thank you for getting back to me though i really appreciate it
@@CYPRUS008044 I don't know about H&S airbrushes specifically, but air brushes generally in the air valve between the trigger and the top of the air valve piston usually have a O-ring seal, if that fell out while you were cleaning it and didn't notice, it could cause problems , like what you described, at least in theory.. may have to check and compare your user manual parts list to your actual airbrush. hope that helps narrow down the problem.
@@babel232 Hi there, thanks for the info. Ill check my instruction book and see if anything like that is missing. Thanks again.
does my head in.....3 set ups....2 needle tubes and nozzle pots? ffs
Covers all the bases in one kit. You can buy these airbrushes with just one set-up for even less money than this kit.
Hello folks, I am new to airbrushing. How do I attach this model to a can of propellant? Thank you!
The propellant can should come with an adapter, or you may have to buy one. That adapter screws to the can and then the airline attaches to it - probably with the small thread size end connection.
Hi
Thanks for the review. I have a couple of questions as a newbie to spraybrushing.
What is IPA. The only one I know is served at the pub
I've used the fendga a few times and it's been okay. I've cleaned it meticulously after every colour change (yea, I know🙄). It's not been used for a few months. When I first used it I got blow back from the cup ie bubbles and no paint sprayed (I hadn't seen your review re the cap👍). Fully cleaned it and it worked okay ish but I had to pull the trigger right back to get any spray. Any less and i got minor bubbles in the pot but not violent like the first time. Any idea where I'm going wrong ?
Thanks in advance
IPA is Isopropyl Alchohol, also known as rubbing achohol in some circles. It's available at chemists and online easily enough. Using beer to clean your airbrush won't work at all well, and is a waste of perfectly good beer!
As for the bubbles, it is either an air leak or you have a partial blockage in your fluid tip, or around the air cap exit - probably the latter.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft thanks for the swift reply. Appreciated.
On the basis of your video I stripped it completely and found crusted paint around the trigger base and return spring joint. I've cleaned all that up and hopefully tomorrow will be a new day
Ps I drank the IPA so my airbrush is safe and sober 👍
Great review👍✌️😊💜
Easy nozzle and needle removal (H&S use a seal on theirs, and Paasche use a chunky system too) I'd suggest some beeswax or glycerine on the threads to the aircap etc and careful tightening (most car painters I know hate WD40 as they still maintain that it has silicon in it - like you I thought it didn't?). I've found super lube residue on brand new airbrushes with a sluggish needle. When I dissembled them there was blue gunk acting like thread lock or similar. Lesson learned!🤔🙄😊✌️I've carefully lubricated my H&S and Paasche airbrushes - with glycerine - as they were not great around their triggers (the weakest point of H&S imho, but okay in the grand scheme of things), improved them no end.
Shame they use the fiddly Iwata type assembly on their 186 model (I think), that puts me off a bit, but a 0.3 186 would be a useful back up airbrush.
They look very similar to the Bartsharp versions🤔🤔
Do not use wd 40 or anything. If your painting garbage who cares then
dont know why Amazon UK won't ship to Australia thats a bugger🤔
Oh that is a shame. I'd be happy to send one to you, but I think the shipping might be a bit of a shocker. Hit me up via the Facebook page if you want to look into it.
don't know why , but shipping from Japan to UK has gone through the roof , sometimes quoted as more than the kit costs !! £48 to post a £14 kit doesn't make any sense to me ????
@@fredtedstedman The cost of shipping has risen everywhere, along with everything else, unfortunately
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft I have been building "kids" jets , CHIBE / COMPACT etc , and can get sent from Dawn Grocery Store China , post free , so £12 -£14 looks cheap to me .(Pensioner .)
Aliexpress. The one stop shop for cheap chinese garbage.
salut Jen super vidéo, peux-tu me dire comment polir une aiguille ,je suis novice merci a toi ,bonjour de Reims (France) on vous regarde souvent , prenez soin de vous
Bonne journée à vous d'Oxford au Royaume-Uni. Pour polir l'aiguille, utilisez une éponge abrasive à grain moyen à fin et poncez l'aiguille sur toute sa longueur. Vous devriez voir qu'il devient rapidement brillant et se sent plus lisse. J'espère que cela pourra aider.
Merci a vous cela va m aider ,encore merci vous êtes super
Absolute crap chrome on it, if thats even what it is.Started flaking within 3 days.
Not heard of this, I trust you returned it? Something to watch out for, definitely
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft The shipping was more than the airbrush. I gave it a shot just to use on paints I dont want to use in my Harder or Paasches.
Is that the same paint sprayer as those Ugly old women paint their faces with to get rid of wrinkles ,
Their faces look like a road map of every road that has ever been traveled including paths ,
So they paint their faces to hide the flaws ,
Doesn't really help when there face has fallen off though and dragging the ground ,
I know a couple of old dogs that need that ,
No matter what it costs
So I assume you're saying this from the high ground of Adonis-like perfection? I'm not into make up myself, but I don't think foundation is normally applied by airbrush...
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft , I think it's called Luminess makeup , I see the commercial on TV all the time for UGLY women whose face looks like a Road Map of the world ,
And No I don't have any high ground Adonis perfection ,
I do however like to paint if that meets with non make-up rules ,
I didn't mean to offend you if that's what you are thinking ,
I have never seen your face ,
So if it's old and wrinkled and almost touching the floor because it a sagging bag of fallen flesh ,
Sounds like your problem ,
I'm here to learn more about paint sprayers ,
I was thinking about buying one of those Luminess makeup machines but seen this instead because I don't think it would except enamel based paint ,
Hope this clears up any of that confusion in your brain
@@jimthomas777 Well you learn something every day! I looked it up but I must admit the women in the advert I found were rather attractive lol
I think if you want to paint enamels (I'm presuming for modelling?) then a proper airbrush like this will be infinitely superior.
@@JenesisDesignsandModelcraft , if they are so attractive , why do you suppose they are painting their face ,
Because they don't like the way it looks before they paint their UGLY wrinkled face ,
And I paint Vehicles , not Modelling ,
But it looks like you did learn something about UGLY women , they paint their faces to look better than they use to
And I use all paints , not just enamel ,
Hey look , you learned something else