I watch and enjoy everything you guys do! I appreciate the detail oriented videos you made in this series. Its nice to get those mixed into the channel once in a while. I cant wait to see the EVO/STI race!
You guys are just buttering me up to start hording parts for my evo vii 😇 its nice to be able to watch you guys do this kind of stuff, takes a lot of the mystery out of it for a guy who's pretty much a virgin at wrenching like myself.
I double nut and nip up the exhaust studs. I also put on some copper anti-seize. Is a good high temp lube. May have been worth doing a ceramic coat on the exhaust manifold and turbine housing to keep the heat at bay. As for turbo oil and water lines: Just pay a visit to your local hydraulic/forklift supply shop. They'll make any line you want with crimped ends at a fair (non-motorsport TAX'd) price ;)
Was just going to comment and suggest the copper anti-seize. Whatever you end up doing for lines get a nice insulated sleeve for it to protect it from the manifold. Thermo Tec makes some good stuff!
With all this quarantine going on I’ve been sitting around waiting for speed academy updates! Great job guys! That manifold is sick! My .02 - throw some water on that wastegate. You’ve already got the motor on a stand, now would be the easiest time to do it. It won’t hurt and it would really suck to decide to do it once it’s in the car.
That engine fit and finish and part selections is beautiful. Excellent way to modernize and restore this engine. With so many v bands on that turbo i thought you might do one for the cold side too. I would assume the decision there will be made according to the intercooler piping you have or will use. I would take advantage of the cooling for the gate and BOV, and I love the purple. Very 2000s classic color again on a modern part.
some of the exhaust manifold studs require Teflon tape or liquid Teflon as they go into the oil channels. Manual doesn't specify it, but it is a potential oil leak. Mine did leak, Teflon taped all of them, fixed.
@@OllieOctober well as a pipe fitter I can tell you that teflon tape is meant to help lubricate thread so you achieve better thread engagement. It is not specifically a thread sealer. There are other, more capable products for that.
EVO 8/9 stuff should fit very similarly on this motor for your turbo lines. If not, AN drain lines are easy enough to make. I'd recommend running the oil feed from the oil filter housing. It's cooler and cleaner oil. The head port is one of the last stops for oil before returning to the pan. There are adapters to restrict oil to the turbo inlet. Not only do ball bearing turbos need less oil than journal bearing turbos, but the oil filter housing is putting out a lot more oil pressure than the head port. Make sure you get the right BSPT fitting for the housing as well. Mitsubishi did a weird thing with BSPT fittings instead of NPT or metric. I don't know what kind of water lines that turbo needs. I used banjo fittings and simply plumbed my inlet and outlet similar to the factory. Inlet from the thermostat housing, outlet to the water pump.
@@coolhwhip86 it's not a matter of how much oil, it's the quality of oil. The factory taps into the oil galley on the head for the turbo. Since it's in the head, it is one of the last places oil goes through. Any debris or head generated could potentially effect the turbo. Jafromobile has several excellent videos on the 4G63 oil system.
Awesome guys, just love the detail of the build. TiAL waste gates and full race manifold, gonna look killer;) I reckon go with the 0.72 housing, 24psi and lambda ~0.78 if egt's are good. Full spool around 3500, make about 380-400 at the tyres. Custom braided oil lines ftw.
I replaced all the exhaust studs on my Miata engine a few months ago. I had trouble getting some of the old ones out, so I chased all the holes in the head, used double nuts just to get the new studs seated all the way, and also used anti-seize on the studs to ensure they wouldn't get stuck again like my old ones did.
I've designed some two piece hard lines for oil return in the past with a small silicone hose in the middle to allow for flex (worked for Cummins). You could definitely weld up some hard lines with a flange that fits the oil return on the turbo.
for the studs i put some anti seize just encase i ever had to replace them watching this bulid finally got me motivated to get my evo 5 rs cant wait to see kicks some sti ass :)
A quick jump over the border is a shop that sells every single Evo part you'd ever need, with the expertise you're looking for, not to mention the proximity to have things shipped much faster than 3,000km away can ever hope to do. Your oil drain kit, intercooler pipes (which I assume aren't built yet), exhaust, etc., are all within arm's reach. I know you'll dyno both options anyway, but considering you're only running S1 cams, you're not going to really rev much more than stock, therefore 0.72 will probably perform better for power under the curve than the larger housing. I do say probably, we could be surprised - some Kelford 272s (or S2s) would have been really good for utilizing the power band and getting the most out of that turbo, as you'd also benefit from the larger power band (and then also the larger exhaust housing.)
Here's my tips: Exhaust studs: double nut with high temp sealant (oil gallery behind the studs, can have a leak if no sealant is used) Oil pan: Weren't you supposed to wait for the liquid gasket to set before fully torquing the oil pan up? (if it doesn't leak, then it doesn't matter :)) COP ignition setup: Make sure to tune the ignition with standalone. Ignition dwell, ignition duration, timing. (just bolting it on does jack shit, and the COP's are firing twice as fast while also overheating due to overly long duration dwell)
Use an fittings for turbo setup, -3 braided line for oil in, and a drain same size as factory but with an fitting and hose, for water bango fittings and pushlock hose works well, if needed put soft heat sleave over hoses
okay so definitely get a custom steel braided teflon line for the oil supply for the turbo and the the drain line should be at least 22mm internal diameter to ensure oil does not get trapped in the turbo and leak thru the piston seals, also see if the garrett turbo has a built in oil restrictor. the OEM banjo bolts usually act as the oil feed restrictor on most mitsubishis.
Those exhaust nut and stud´s, i hand tight those stud´s, but always use copper grease in those nut´s, then some ceramic grease in stud when install in the head....
For the turbo oil feed: get a -4 AN/m10 fitting, I believe that is the right size. It will thread right in and then run the line into your turbo. For the turbo drain: probably -4 again, weld a -4 fitting on to the flange of your stock oil drain Make sure you put the oil restriction in the location that Garrett specifies
I have a Precision 6062 gen 2 BB, but i used a PRL ported oil drain flange. seems like it works really well, especially on the PTE turbos which i know can be picky with oil drains. Can’t hurt on a garrett too i would imagine. I Used an STM feed and and STM drain kit other wise, which both seem to be working well.
exhaust studs (my opinion) - I only double nut when they don't thread in freely on an old rusty exhaust repair. If they will go in by hand i put them in til they bottom out. tension once the nut is tightened holds them in. Rust will be your natural loctite lol
100% agree on the spool the evo 6 is a point to point car not made for top end. At 30-130 they are monsters perfect for the track. im guessing around 550-580hp on 99 i seem to think america doesn't get 99ron? the car will be so much more aggressive than the newer impreza
WOW! No Twin scroll? After having driven twin scroll vs single I will never go back to single. Part throttle boost response is incredible, and easy to transition to boost with throttle. Single scroll is like an on off switch even with a smaller turbo. Also watch out for exhaust manifold heat melting things. Tubular Long exhaust runners make a few hp on the top end, but sacrifice the Evo's unique boost response, make it just like every other turbo car. Every car I knew with a tubular manifold ended up going back to a Ported or FP cast manifold (yes even full race people) to get that awesome boost response. Unless they had a 35/37r making 700whp on e85.
You can't get the new G-series turbos in twin scroll housing otherwise we would have done so. With the smaller turbo and tubular manifold we hope to see some good response that will carry to the top end.
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but the two shorter bolts interfere with the timing belt if long ones are put in their place. I did see where others mentioned about some of the lower exhaust studs needing rtv because they can leak oil. In the last video I'm pretty sure one of the motor mount bolts behind the timing belt requires rtv as well. At least that's what the manual says for my older 7 bolt 4G64.
You are correct, the middle one of the motor mount bolts from factory uses the MD194109 (bolt, 10 X 22 with sealant) or use the old bolt with RTV (as mentioned in the Manual)
I think most Evo folks feed the turbo from the oil filter housing not the block. They sell a block off bolt for that factory turbo feed on the head. Water line you’d be better off doing custom lines. I think ExtremePSI.com sells the kits for the oil filter housing feed kit, and bolt block off for the factory oil feed off of the head.
We have an Evo 4-9 G Series Turbo Install Kit with all the oil, water, and vacuum fittings / lines required if you guys haven't got them sorted out yet!
So for your turbo feed, i strongly recommend against using the factory feed in the head. It is a low priority feed tee'd off the lifter feed, and with the factory arrangement, its not uncommon to have super low oil pressure and flow to the turbo. If tou want an easy solution, forced performance sell oil line kits, taking a new feed point from the oil filter housing, and coming with a restrictor to suit a ball bearing turbo, as well as a filter. Otherwise custom line off the oil filter housing or oil feed on the back of the block, and add a turbosmart oil pressure regulator to make sure the turbo doesnt get flooded.
We’ve always called it RTV... Grew up in my dads transmission shop here in Las Vegas. (Performance Transmission - Had the Worlds fastest Buick Grand National with a v6 still. Fully built motor by Kenny Dutweiler and ran dual turbos and also a single 108 trim beast! Record breaking numbers were: 6.76 at 206 mph. (May have ran a lower run by hundredths. But that was the record and it stood for a very long time. May still be standing not sure. Len Freeman (my step dad was the driver as well as the trans builder and fabricator.) John Galina (John Galina Racing was the full sponsor.) Such fun times!! Always went to Bowling Green every year for the Buick Nationals events. So much fun growing up with such amazing inspirational and some of the smartest individuals I’ve ever met! And now I’ve sold my 10sec T-Type and have been getting into drifting with couple of G35’s. 😁 So much more fun! And way more seat time. Keep up the great content. Love your show!! So in-depth with your builds!! You two are extremely knowledgeable!! Much respect gentleman! -Sean (DRIFTLY) Remmen
Great turbo choice! These turbos spool up really quickly and still provide enough air flow for the higher RPMs. Crazy responsive set up like Adam Lz’s cars. Nice build guys
I feel like this motor is going to leak from two areas. The oil pan first for not waiting a few hours before torque down to allow for curing. The exhaust manifold bolts second. On our 4g63s you need to seal the threads.
It was based on GSR (Grand Sport Rally) and tunes by “RalliArt” that stands all of Mitsubishi brands for rally contenders against the Subaru Technical International.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for watching our engine build series. Tell us what you thought! Now to get it installed and running.
Love the small turbo idea more than capable of making the target horsepower and will have an amazing powerband can't wait to see the results
I would consider an intake manifold for any top end concerns... Grisdales can probably supply the oil lines and fittings
I watch and enjoy everything you guys do! I appreciate the detail oriented videos you made in this series. Its nice to get those mixed into the channel once in a while. I cant wait to see the EVO/STI race!
You guys are just buttering me up to start hording parts for my evo vii 😇 its nice to be able to watch you guys do this kind of stuff, takes a lot of the mystery out of it for a guy who's pretty much a virgin at wrenching like myself.
Loving this series!
I double nut and nip up the exhaust studs. I also put on some copper anti-seize. Is a good high temp lube.
May have been worth doing a ceramic coat on the exhaust manifold and turbine housing to keep the heat at bay.
As for turbo oil and water lines: Just pay a visit to your local hydraulic/forklift supply shop. They'll make any line you want with crimped ends at a fair (non-motorsport TAX'd) price ;)
Agreed. Without exhaust shields things around manifold eventually melt.
Was just going to comment and suggest the copper anti-seize. Whatever you end up doing for lines get a nice insulated sleeve for it to protect it from the manifold. Thermo Tec makes some good stuff!
With all this quarantine going on I’ve been sitting around waiting for speed academy updates! Great job guys! That manifold is sick! My .02 - throw some water on that wastegate. You’ve already got the motor on a stand, now would be the easiest time to do it. It won’t hurt and it would really suck to decide to do it once it’s in the car.
We agree. Since those G25 turbos have M14 water ports, just use a double-banjo fitting on each one and cycle the coolant through.....cheap insurance!
Man this engine is turning out to be a work of art...
That engine fit and finish and part selections is beautiful. Excellent way to modernize and restore this engine. With so many v bands on that turbo i thought you might do one for the cold side too. I would assume the decision there will be made according to the intercooler piping you have or will use. I would take advantage of the cooling for the gate and BOV, and I love the purple. Very 2000s classic color again on a modern part.
some of the exhaust manifold studs require Teflon tape or liquid Teflon as they go into the oil channels. Manual doesn't specify it, but it is a potential oil leak. Mine did leak, Teflon taped all of them, fixed.
Teflon tape is a thread lubricant not a sealant. 👍
@@JordieG8 except for the part where people use teflon tape to seal threads especially in the plumbing industry
They make thread sealants specifically for this, I used some from loctite in my motor
@@OllieOctober well as a pipe fitter I can tell you that teflon tape is meant to help lubricate thread so you achieve better thread engagement. It is not specifically a thread sealer. There are other, more capable products for that.
@@TWinkler02 yes, exactly. This is not the application for "Teflon tape" the heat will break it down quite quickly.
I was able to get all the lines from STM for my evo, solid people there
Another vote for STM. They hooked me up with all my oil, fuel and water lines
The bottom row of exhaust manifold studs need sealing in as there are oil ways behind them 👍🏼 will leak down the threads and cause a nasty mess
A nasty surprise for many
Definitely listen to this guy. He's right. A good quality thread sealant such as wurth will do the job.
+1 on this 800 miles on my rebuild and it's leaking down the block😭
I love the flares on that car, it looks great. The purple wastegates were a great color choice as well!
I do the same thing for the exhaust studs. Double nut with some anti seize.
Jokes on you I’m using window caulking 😂😂😂
8:35 the M3 in the background 😍
Looks mean
Thanks for the great job of explaining the water-cooling feature of the MVR, and for making us a part of your build.
Thanks for making such great products! We can see the quality that goes into Tial products is top notch.
You guys are putting in hella work. Thanks for being one of the only channels that go in depth and really show cool stuff like this!!!!!!!!!!!!!
EVO 8/9 stuff should fit very similarly on this motor for your turbo lines. If not, AN drain lines are easy enough to make. I'd recommend running the oil feed from the oil filter housing. It's cooler and cleaner oil. The head port is one of the last stops for oil before returning to the pan. There are adapters to restrict oil to the turbo inlet. Not only do ball bearing turbos need less oil than journal bearing turbos, but the oil filter housing is putting out a lot more oil pressure than the head port. Make sure you get the right BSPT fitting for the housing as well. Mitsubishi did a weird thing with BSPT fittings instead of NPT or metric.
I don't know what kind of water lines that turbo needs. I used banjo fittings and simply plumbed my inlet and outlet similar to the factory. Inlet from the thermostat housing, outlet to the water pump.
The cylinder head provides plenty of oil on evos for ball bearing turbos. If it's a journal then go from the oil filter housing.
@@coolhwhip86 it's not a matter of how much oil, it's the quality of oil. The factory taps into the oil galley on the head for the turbo. Since it's in the head, it is one of the last places oil goes through. Any debris or head generated could potentially effect the turbo. Jafromobile has several excellent videos on the 4G63 oil system.
18:10 Def custom lines, or get a sponsor that has the big swaging tool.
The production quality has gotten insane. Good job guys
Awesome guys, just love the detail of the build. TiAL waste gates and full race manifold, gonna look killer;) I reckon go with the 0.72 housing, 24psi and lambda ~0.78 if egt's are good. Full spool around 3500, make about 380-400 at the tyres. Custom braided oil lines ftw.
I replaced all the exhaust studs on my Miata engine a few months ago. I had trouble getting some of the old ones out, so I chased all the holes in the head, used double nuts just to get the new studs seated all the way, and also used anti-seize on the studs to ensure they wouldn't get stuck again like my old ones did.
One of my favorite builds. This and Connie are dope
I've designed some two piece hard lines for oil return in the past with a small silicone hose in the middle to allow for flex (worked for Cummins). You could definitely weld up some hard lines with a flange that fits the oil return on the turbo.
awesome choice for the manifold! that manifold will last forever
for the studs i put some anti seize just encase i ever had to replace them watching this bulid finally got me motivated to get my evo 5 rs cant wait to see kicks some sti ass :)
The flow on that manifold is a work of art 😍
All vibrant fittings and dash fittings for oil lines/returns. Super easy to do and flexible.
The build is looking amazing so far, I can't wait to hear it run!!
Love the air quotes on STI "killer."
this monster gonna eat the roads 👹
You guys are killing it!!! Keep up the good job. Keeping us entertained and minds exercised during this pandemic. Great inspiration!
Loved the Series! This and your supercar killer build are your best to date! Kept me wanting to watch the next episode as soon as it came out!
A quick jump over the border is a shop that sells every single Evo part you'd ever need, with the expertise you're looking for, not to mention the proximity to have things shipped much faster than 3,000km away can ever hope to do. Your oil drain kit, intercooler pipes (which I assume aren't built yet), exhaust, etc., are all within arm's reach. I know you'll dyno both options anyway, but considering you're only running S1 cams, you're not going to really rev much more than stock, therefore 0.72 will probably perform better for power under the curve than the larger housing. I do say probably, we could be surprised - some Kelford 272s (or S2s) would have been really good for utilizing the power band and getting the most out of that turbo, as you'd also benefit from the larger power band (and then also the larger exhaust housing.)
now i'm waiting for Jafromobile upload and my 4g64 crave will be satisfied fully :D
The 4G63 is getting there & is looking more beautiful than ever lol
cant believe pete has been let loose with the bathroom caulking again!
Here's my tips:
Exhaust studs: double nut with high temp sealant (oil gallery behind the studs, can have a leak if no sealant is used)
Oil pan: Weren't you supposed to wait for the liquid gasket to set before fully torquing the oil pan up? (if it doesn't leak, then it doesn't matter :))
COP ignition setup: Make sure to tune the ignition with standalone. Ignition dwell, ignition duration, timing. (just bolting it on does jack shit, and the COP's are firing twice as fast while also overheating due to overly long duration dwell)
Use an fittings for turbo setup, -3 braided line for oil in, and a drain same size as factory but with an fitting and hose, for water bango fittings and pushlock hose works well, if needed put soft heat sleave over hoses
okay so definitely get a custom steel braided teflon line for the oil supply for the turbo and the the drain line should be at least 22mm internal diameter to ensure oil does not get trapped in the turbo and leak thru the piston seals, also see if the garrett turbo has a built in oil restrictor. the OEM banjo bolts usually act as the oil feed restrictor on most mitsubishis.
I wish yall could do dailey uploads of this build. It's so well done, keep it up guys!
You guys deserve so many more subs! Your content is great. Keep pushing out great vids and I’m sure it will come.
Thanks for the great words!!
Those exhaust nut and stud´s, i hand tight those stud´s, but always use copper grease in those nut´s, then some ceramic grease in stud when install in the head....
I use Nickel permatex anti seize on the manifold studs for the higher temperature threshold.
I always use locktide and tighten studs in head. So in a future removal only nuts come out.
That engine looks good. I hope it runs as well as it looks.
Good job so far the Engine is looking real good....I would recommend getting some custom steel braided lines to complete the setup......
I'm glad to see that the turbo is water cooled...most car shows don't even use water cooled turbos💪
Thank you PT for listening to the people and painting everything! Lol
18:36 PT caressing the turbo manifold 🤣🤣🤣 you guys just witnessed a very intimate moment.
SHOTTA61 😂😂😂😂
For the turbo oil feed: get a -4 AN/m10 fitting, I believe that is the right size. It will thread right in and then run the line into your turbo.
For the turbo drain: probably -4 again, weld a -4 fitting on to the flange of your stock oil drain
Make sure you put the oil restriction in the location that Garrett specifies
Custom braided lines would be nice to see on such a clean engine. Rubber just isn't that flash and is prone to heat
The anticipation is killing me...I can't even imagine what it is doing to you both.
You will kill sti's with no problem my friend 💪🏼
Great video as always! Can’t wait to see the next steps!
You should torque the studs down, they are then stronger as well as protecting the thread in the head.
This engine is looking killer! And damn does that full race manifold look sexy!
“RTV” is room temperature vulcanization silicone (doesn’t need to be cooked).
Can't wait to engine swap my sleeper project carisma,this will help me alot😁
I think some of the manifold studs go into an oil gallery
13:40 i want to make that a portrait and put it in my garage. beautiful parts!
I would reccomend the double nut method, with high temp lock-tite. Did it on my Evo IV and have had zero issues with em. Hope this helps!
@speedacademy I really love this and the 2jz BMW build thanks for the years of entertainment.
P.S. we need more Ken and Moose!!
I enjoyed this engine rebuild. Super excited about the sti vs evo showdown (vape intensifies) lol
I have a Precision 6062 gen 2 BB, but i used a PRL ported oil drain flange. seems like it works really well, especially on the PTE turbos which i know can be picky with oil drains. Can’t hurt on a garrett too i would imagine. I Used an STM feed and and STM drain kit other wise, which both seem to be working well.
exhaust studs (my opinion) - I only double nut when they don't thread in freely on an old rusty exhaust repair. If they will go in by hand i put them in til they bottom out. tension once the nut is tightened holds them in. Rust will be your natural loctite lol
100% agree on the spool the evo 6 is a point to point car not made for top end. At 30-130 they are monsters perfect for the track. im guessing around 550-580hp on 99 i seem to think america doesn't get 99ron? the car will be so much more aggressive than the newer impreza
WOW! No Twin scroll? After having driven twin scroll vs single I will never go back to single. Part throttle boost response is incredible, and easy to transition to boost with throttle. Single scroll is like an on off switch even with a smaller turbo. Also watch out for exhaust manifold heat melting things. Tubular Long exhaust runners make a few hp on the top end, but sacrifice the Evo's unique boost response, make it just like every other turbo car. Every car I knew with a tubular manifold ended up going back to a Ported or FP cast manifold (yes even full race people) to get that awesome boost response. Unless they had a 35/37r making 700whp on e85.
You can't get the new G-series turbos in twin scroll housing otherwise we would have done so. With the smaller turbo and tubular manifold we hope to see some good response that will carry to the top end.
Awesome setup on this engine.
Here to boost the algorithm
Stm and MAP both have kits for the lines needed for oil and coolant. I’m running them on my evo 8. Maps prices are usually better too
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but the two shorter bolts interfere with the timing belt if long ones are put in their place.
I did see where others mentioned about some of the lower exhaust studs needing rtv because they can leak oil.
In the last video I'm pretty sure one of the motor mount bolts behind the timing belt requires rtv as well. At least that's what the manual says for my older 7 bolt 4G64.
You are correct, the middle one of the motor mount bolts from factory uses the MD194109 (bolt, 10 X 22 with sealant) or use the old bolt with RTV (as mentioned in the Manual)
What paint color and brand used to paint that intake manifold?
That Full-Race manifold... JEEZ
Dope episode. Im also on the ropes of whether to go oil feed from the head or from oil filter location.
Ashy Gee head,as it will push a lot easier than from the filter where it will have to pull. Either way,good luck on your build 👍
@@billolsen5401 Just a question, Do you have prior experience? ..ive heard there is less stable oil pressure in the head? Any truth in this?
For long life in a high heat application use hard lines on your turbo
I have similar set up I just get custom pressure line made from hydraulic place and for return I just got barp fitting
I have Evo 7 and STI V9, I personally feel that both car have their advantages.
Not on my mind that killing each other.
Battle of the ages coming up
I usually get my oil lines from a local hydraulics shop, Can't beat crimped connections.
I think most Evo folks feed the turbo from the oil filter housing not the block. They sell a block off bolt for that factory turbo feed on the head. Water line you’d be better off doing custom lines. I think ExtremePSI.com sells the kits for the oil filter housing feed kit, and bolt block off for the factory oil feed off of the head.
We have an Evo 4-9 G Series Turbo Install Kit with all the oil, water, and vacuum fittings / lines required if you guys haven't got them sorted out yet!
i own a 2017 wrx sti, and that is a sick car :) nice job!
Looks pretty awesome but are you really not going to paint those rusty mount brackets??
Throttle body gasket...a thicc one
That turbo will b fun so much tq
YOU FORGOT THE GASKET MA.... oh, never mind. Can’t wait to hear it fire up!!! 😁👍👬
So for your turbo feed, i strongly recommend against using the factory feed in the head. It is a low priority feed tee'd off the lifter feed, and with the factory arrangement, its not uncommon to have super low oil pressure and flow to the turbo. If tou want an easy solution, forced performance sell oil line kits, taking a new feed point from the oil filter housing, and coming with a restrictor to suit a ball bearing turbo, as well as a filter. Otherwise custom line off the oil filter housing or oil feed on the back of the block, and add a turbosmart oil pressure regulator to make sure the turbo doesnt get flooded.
We’ve always called it RTV...
Grew up in my dads transmission shop here in Las Vegas. (Performance Transmission - Had the Worlds fastest Buick Grand National with a v6 still. Fully built motor by Kenny Dutweiler and ran dual turbos and also a single 108 trim beast! Record breaking numbers were:
6.76 at 206 mph. (May have ran a lower run by hundredths. But that was the record and it stood for a very long time. May still be standing not sure.
Len Freeman (my step dad was the driver as well as the trans builder and fabricator.)
John Galina (John Galina Racing was the full sponsor.)
Such fun times!! Always went to Bowling Green every year for the Buick Nationals events. So much fun growing up with such amazing inspirational and some of the smartest individuals I’ve ever met!
And now I’ve sold my 10sec T-Type and have been getting into drifting with couple of G35’s. 😁 So much more fun! And way more seat time.
Keep up the great content. Love your show!! So in-depth with your builds!! You two are extremely knowledgeable!!
Much respect gentleman!
-Sean (DRIFTLY) Remmen
I love the mature builds though. Not chasing stupid power but balance. Love this. I think I’m going to build a JDM Silvia what do you think
Great turbo choice! These turbos spool up really quickly and still provide enough air flow for the higher RPMs. Crazy responsive set up like Adam Lz’s cars. Nice build guys
I feel like this motor is going to leak from two areas. The oil pan first for not waiting a few hours before torque down to allow for curing. The exhaust manifold bolts second. On our 4g63s you need to seal the threads.
Oye, those rusty brackers on that pretty motor... You guys are killing me! :D
Awesome episode again guys.
Is there a reason you didn't go twin scroll?
Dammit.. I was rushing for first! 😂😂
It was based on GSR (Grand Sport Rally) and tunes by “RalliArt” that stands all of Mitsubishi brands for rally contenders against the Subaru Technical International.
Are you going to ceramic coat the exhaust manifold?
Would definitely buy Speed Academy stamped TiAL products if they ever sell those
STM makes oil feed and return lines for multiple applications. Check them out
Keep it up guys awesome vid
Just build your own oil feed and drain, it really isn't that hard and you can make sure they work perfectly with your set up.
Put that STI killer to the test and race the guys at throtl with their 2008 WRX STI wide body!!!
That manifold makes the motor.