Thank you for the video. I did this job over the weekend. I took my time with breaks and it took me about 8 hours including pinning the crank. The impacted wrench was not able to take the bolt off. So had to use breaker bar. Had to remove starter and put the flywheel locking tool in. I was able to torque the balancer bolt over 220lbs with the motor suspended and on the support jack without issue. Dropping the cooling fan gives you more room as well but its not needed.
I think this method is probably the best ones because the videos I saw where they remove the steering rack did it from the drivers side and you have to bend the brake lines which be either broken or bent
I’m glad you posted this video. I just bought a 2012 C6 Grand Sport last week. The harmonic balancer will need to be replaced. I’m not willing to pay thousands of dollars for a repair like this. I’ve already purchased the harmonic balancer from summit racing, the seal, and the ARP bolt along with the tools needed to do the job. I’ve seen other videos and it appears their method is much more complex compared to what you’ve described in your method. I’m going to try your method so hopefully it will turn out a success. Thank you for showing and explaining your method. Good Job.
I'm buying a '13 gs this Friday, crazy GM hasn't come up with a solution by 2013! I don't know yet if my hb is wobbling. Will find out on Friday! I've read the newer C6's, there's more stuff in the way and can't do the HB like detailed in this video. I do have a 4 post lift that I'm sure will help get this done, if needed. I can't wait till Friday!
@@AdamRamirez47 the C6 Balancer was changed without removing the steering rack, lowering the cradle while supporting the motor. On the C5 Z06, we had to mover the steering rack out of the way.
I recently noticed that my car has the harmonic balancer death wobble. I was wondering about this method. I have a transmission jack to support that big flat engine pan.
When you say to lower the cradle, isn’t it four bolts that hold the cradle on the frame? When you said you loosened the motor mounts, it looks like you pulled them off completely?
I'm planning a cam swap in my grandsport and instead of pulling rack out and draining fluid all over, I think I'm going to pull calipers to the side and support engine and drop whole crossover with leaf spring and a arms with rack, pump, and reservoir as a whole unit.
I do have some safety concerns with your approach. During the removal and installation, both front suspension and engine are on jack supports. If any of those two supports fails, it will be really bad. Considering the torques needed to remove and install HB, it is not impossible.
Yeah, I would use top mount engine support over the jack and pan. The rest is probably fine. I just did this on my 98 LS1 and the 240ft/lb wasnt hard to achieve. Different than this setup in terms of though access plus I have all UMI parts everywhere including K-Member which make access a lot easier.
@@DanielA23 ruclips.net/video/ayoaXNKq1EQ/видео.htmlsi=iZ8wHZtdpzfYRtCm in this video, the two rear bolts of front cross member to frame are only loosen and not completely removed, which make it much safer.
@@richarddobreny6664 I actually got mine to drop far enough that I didn't need to disconnect it. I went on a 5000km road trip after my repair and didn't have an issue.
did you guys have any issues doing this, i never do mechanical work and my mechanic ripped me off by not fixing it the first time, any tips for somebody looking to do this for the first time with no mechanical experience?@@fawkyoufromjones
Cool story, but that literally only applies to people that are only tracking the car (because you're not going to need the extra camber that is provided, and it's not worth the excess tire wear). Also, if you remove all the shims, now you've affected more than just camber: you'll have fucked up cross-caster. If you're aiming to get more negative camber, you remove one shim from each bolt, leaving you with one on each forward bolt and zero on the two back ones.
I was tracking and streeting the car with no adverse issues at 3% camber. Maybe if the car was not pushed and just street use you could see some inner tire wear.@@rustler08
Great idea.out of all the videos this one is one of the best.just wish you did a step by step but I get the idea if I ever have to do mine ty
Thank you for the video. I did this job over the weekend. I took my time with breaks and it took me about 8 hours including pinning the crank. The impacted wrench was not able to take the bolt off. So had to use breaker bar. Had to remove starter and put the flywheel locking tool in. I was able to torque the balancer bolt over 220lbs with the motor suspended and on the support jack without issue. Dropping the cooling fan gives you more room as well but its not needed.
Tip mark the location of the cradle n control arms with something like white out pen just makes it easier to get it back to original location.
I think this method is probably the best ones because the videos I saw where they remove the steering rack did it from the drivers side and you have to bend the brake lines which be either broken or bent
You had be cracking up with the pan, but hey it works and sometimes you gotta do what it takes
This spring! Thank,you!
great idea
This is great, the local shop here wanted to charge 6 hours time to do the swap.
It takes about 5-6 hours in my experience
Interesting.
I’m glad you posted this video. I just bought a 2012 C6 Grand Sport last week. The harmonic balancer will need to be replaced. I’m not willing to pay thousands of dollars for a repair like this. I’ve already purchased the harmonic balancer from summit racing, the seal, and the ARP bolt along with the tools needed to do the job. I’ve seen other videos and it appears their method is much more complex compared to what you’ve described in your method. I’m going to try your method so hopefully it will turn out a success. Thank you for showing and explaining your method. Good Job.
How did it go?
Yes, tell us how that went. This methods seems like a great idea
I'm buying a '13 gs this Friday, crazy GM hasn't come up with a solution by 2013! I don't know yet if my hb is wobbling. Will find out on Friday! I've read the newer C6's, there's more stuff in the way and can't do the HB like detailed in this video. I do have a 4 post lift that I'm sure will help get this done, if needed. I can't wait till Friday!
sam here bro, was the job a sucess?@@richarddobreny6664
@@AdamRamirez47 the C6 Balancer was changed without removing the steering rack, lowering the cradle while supporting the motor. On the C5 Z06, we had to mover the steering rack out of the way.
Sounds great, what about the steering column attachment to rack?
I recently noticed that my car has the harmonic balancer death wobble. I was wondering about this method. I have a transmission jack to support that big flat engine pan.
What about the lines to the rack, brakes, and steering column?
Thanks for posting the video. Where did you exactly support the engine with the bottle jack? What HB did you end up going with?
Hey when doing this besides for lowering the cradle, what else in terms of power steering rack hydraulic lines steering shaft need to be disconnected
When you say to lower the cradle, isn’t it four bolts that hold the cradle on the frame? When you said you loosened the motor mounts, it looks like you pulled them off completely?
I'm planning a cam swap in my grandsport and instead of pulling rack out and draining fluid all over, I think I'm going to pull calipers to the side and support engine and drop whole crossover with leaf spring and a arms with rack, pump, and reservoir as a whole unit.
same here great time saver
Didn't you have to disconnect any of the hydraulic lines between the steering rack and the power steering pump?
Did you disconnect the steering shaft from the rack?
Hey boss I have a quick question did you take out your fan
I do have some safety concerns with your approach. During the removal and installation, both front suspension and engine are on jack supports. If any of those two supports fails, it will be really bad. Considering the torques needed to remove and install HB, it is not impossible.
Yeah, I would use top mount engine support over the jack and pan. The rest is probably fine. I just did this on my 98 LS1 and the 240ft/lb wasnt hard to achieve. Different than this setup in terms of though access plus I have all UMI parts everywhere including K-Member which make access a lot easier.
@@DanielA23 ruclips.net/video/ayoaXNKq1EQ/видео.htmlsi=iZ8wHZtdpzfYRtCm in this video, the two rear bolts of front cross member to frame are only loosen and not completely removed, which make it much safer.
What size is your serpentine belt ?
Did you use an impact?
Did you have to remove the steering shaft from the steering rack? I'm doing this job now and could sure use a reply. : )
It looks like you do have to disconnect it. We are currently at the stage where we loosened everything but still not getting the cradle to drop
@@richarddobreny6664 I actually got mine to drop far enough that I didn't need to disconnect it. I went on a 5000km road trip after my repair and didn't have an issue.
did you guys have any issues doing this, i never do mechanical work and my mechanic ripped me off by not fixing it the first time, any tips for somebody looking to do this for the first time with no mechanical experience?@@fawkyoufromjones
If you delete the mag ride shocks you will be limited to 80mph. I have tried numerous shock eliminator resistor kits none worked on my 13 grand sport.
I'm buying a '13 gs this Friday, it does not have a dial on center console for sport mode and what not so I'm assuming I have regular shocks.
Doing so is also a massive downgrade for the car.
You can remove the upper shims to get extra camber, all my Motorsport buddies do this
Cool story, but that literally only applies to people that are only tracking the car (because you're not going to need the extra camber that is provided, and it's not worth the excess tire wear). Also, if you remove all the shims, now you've affected more than just camber: you'll have fucked up cross-caster. If you're aiming to get more negative camber, you remove one shim from each bolt, leaving you with one on each forward bolt and zero on the two back ones.
I was tracking and streeting the car with no adverse issues at 3% camber. Maybe if the car was not pushed and just street use you could see some inner tire wear.@@rustler08
Would this work on c5