Just cut the plastic add some screws and make it easier and even easier next time. O'Reilys sensor does look better than OEM and is cheaper. I killed my second sensor when it got hit with brake fluid due to my stupid addition of the remote bleeder for the slave cylinder. Don't add extra joints that can leak was my lesson, GM engineers did it right.
@@seanfarley1758 No. My access is fully sealed back up with screws for access. Brake fluid came from the clutch slave, on the same side of the duct as the sensor! If I left the hole open, the fluid might of missed the sensor but went into the interior!!
I once bought 2 different thermostats for a '78 Volvo. One from a Volvo dealer and 1 from AutoZone. Both said Roberts on them and were identical. I returned the Volvo one. 😅
As an ASE CMAT and I've had to do this twice on my '01. Cut a coat hanger and bend one end at 90 degrees to un-clip the wire then use a 3/8 ratchet, a 3/8 to1/4 adapter, a 10 in. long 1/4 in. extension, a 1/4 in universal., a 1/4 to 3/8 in. adapter and the 3/8 drive special socket (MAC #SC46) The first time it took 30 minutes and the next time 15 minutes. It is a tight fit, and it can be done. Thanks Lyle! ;D
Sad to say, I instantly recognized the part being held up , so could almost guess the topic and what was going to be discussed. Always glad that this channel is here to discuss topics with both knowledge and experience , as kind of a countermeasure to all the corvette channels who manage to buy a camera and then give poorly informed advice , some no better than gossip that they heard multiple times elsewhere on the internet and pass on as solid repair tips. I did this job , but didn't know enough to change my knock sensors, so I appreciate the tip and the helpful link. I did clean my air flow sensor , returning it to a shiny color, and cleaned a surprising amount of oily dirt that had collected in the crevices of the throttle body. When I opened my new gasket kit, only then did I learn that I was missing the sponge dirt blockers that fit under each end of the manifold, after puzzling over what these sponge things were for a while, because they didn't look like gaskets, and I hadn't removed anything like that so far. I was very unskilled at the time, and didn't even know all the wires were held on by clips. Consequently , I followed some bad advice that suggested a shortcut removal, and I accidentally destroyed my connector clip, because the advice didn't mention any securing device on the connector, just said remove the connector , and I was working blindly with extension tools, as suggested , and without feel, trying to avoiding cutting a hole in my car and what I thought was a job beyond my skill level. I bought an extension pigtail to replace the destroyed connector, but don't know which wire is which , because the oil sensor wires on my car are not color coded. I really hope I can figure which wire goes where without hurting something electronic. Stuff like that experience is why I have some resentment towards guys who have a camera, know that Corvettes get clicks, so give out marginal or worse corvette advice, where guys who want to learn, like me, but haven't yet learned the hard way to double check non professional internet advice , can get burned.
Richard, I'm sorry that you have had such a bad experience with this job. I try to give enough detail to be helpful without leading people into a job that is beyond their skill--not saying that you are included in that group!. IF I can be of help with your problem, email me through our website and I will do whatever I can to get you to the finish line. Lyle
@@csvette that is a very kind offer, and much appreciated . I will be in touch, and greatly appreciate the gift of valuable time. The manifold removal wasn't a bad experience, the result , once I decided to skip the shortcuts, was actually mildly satisfying. I didn't get the satisfaction of a job well done, since I couldn't complete the sensor wiring, but I feel the cleaning done along the way was very productive, and I learned a little bit about how to work on the car. The problems resulting from inexperience along the way were easily solved, save for the wiring I destroyed, and that was purely the result of ignorance, from not being able to identify bad advice. I was completely unprepared that someone would offer flawed car repair advice. To me that would be equivalent to lying. Now that I have owned the car for awhile, and have gotten a feel for some the Bs people post about Corvette repair on the internet sites and RUclips , I have a much more careful approach. I actually hope to be acquire the skills to steward the car well enough so that after it leaves my hands, and faces the inevitable decision if it will be scrapped or saved, it will be nice enough to make the cut.
@@csvette Hi! great content and info in all your videos; quick question do ALL LS engines and variations of it like LSA have the oil pressure sending unit issue???
I had one replaced last year by a specialized Corvette shop. But I learned more about this sensor from you more than ever. Thanks for a very informative video Lyle! 🏆
I used to drill a small hole with a hole saw in the wiper box. And then plug the hole with a plastic plug. The tech next to me didn't like doing it my way, so he pulled the intake. Well as luck would have it, something got dropped down into one of the ports. Bent a valve and messed up the piston. After that fiasco he would drill a hole.
I like all the advice that you give. You have helped me do several things to my C5 that I would have never done without your help and videos. Thank you.
I watched and 'liked' this video 8 months ago. Today my OP sensor went out, stuck on 80 PSI. I just ordered the parts that you suggested. Now, after the 1st of the year, I will fix the problem myself, as you have suggested. Thanks again for the valuable information. My 01 has 76000 miles on it...
Changing the knock sensor is not good advise. I did it, as you recommended, and found out, at the Corvette forum, that I shouldn't have. It turns out that if they aren't bad they should be left alone. The knock sensor replacements are very difficult to get working, if they work at all. I'm in the process of re-installing the old ones, which were working well. i hope they come back to life, because I may have a real problem. For those reading this, DON'T MESS WITH THE KNOCK SENSOR. If it's not broke, don't fix it!
You need to buy factory OEM components for the knock sensors. Need to go to a GM dealer and buy them, not the crap from O’Reillys or AutoZone. They are not the same, and they are different part numbers. You can get a harness from just about anywhere, but the sensors themselves must come from GM only.
I replaced one a few years ago on my 03 Z06 without taking the intake off. I did it by using a mirror and reaching back behind the intake from the top. I used a pivoting socket and then torqued it down. It took all day doing that thing blindly but it worked. Wrist hurt for days. Lol
Thanks for the detailed explanation. The 1st time my sensor failed, it drove the gage to 80 PSI. I replaced it the hard way. No drilled hole. No manifold removal. Just 2 hours of cussing while trying to get the old sensor out using whatever tools I could find. Then, about a year later, the "new" sensor also failed. Then I bought another sensor and the relocation kit. It's now installed and working great! Now, when this sensor fails (and it will), it will be a piece of cake to replace.
Thanks Lyle! Your channel is a Godsend. Ever since I bought my '04 'Vette 2 1/2 years ago, you've been my go to source for automotive headache relief! 😂
So far with 45,000 miles on my 2004 Vette I’ve had none of these issues. Thanks for the great video on my upcoming problems I could have.😯 I’m in no hurry though.😉
If you put the old pressure sensor back in the factory location, you are a bigger fool than GM engineers. It is a shit load of work just for that little 25 or $30 sensor, buying a relocation kit is the best thing to do. Your local Napa or Parker hydraulic hose store will be able to make one for you for less than $50.
Spot on with the gasket replacement as those foam protectors that are supposed to keep fluid away from knock sensors is typically toast, and you probably want to take a can of barryman to the intake manifold to get any oil out the pcv has sucked up.
at same time, also replace the air pump exhaust gas check valve for passenger side located on rear driver side attached to block and requires intake manifold removal.
Depending on what state you are, you do not need that air pump. You can pull all that bullshit off of there, and remove the air pump from the front of the vehicle.
Yup, Lol I just replace mine, and it fixes the leak too, fyi better change the camshaft sensor too while your intake manifold is off, might as well also check your fuel injectors for dirt,etc and look inside the intake for oil. Look at your throttle body. Intake gaskets, etc. IF YOU OWN A c5 in general get ready for maintenance 😂
Ned advice, I'm a diesel mach, who's helping a friend pull the head on an 01 Corvette, it blew a plug out of the 5 hole, I told him chevs don't blow plugs unless it fill with oil or fuel but a garage told him it's common on that engine, yes or no,
5:51 we are baffled about a silver metal braided cable with a bleeder type valve at the end, just hanging loose by the clutch cylinder. I now think that may be the remote bleeder you mentioned.
Since these cars are 20 years old and Lyle mentioned vacuum lines at the back, wouldn't replacing these lines also make sense while you're in there? Kinda' 'whilimatits' taking place. Thank you Lyle for an informative how-to-do-it!
Great Video! I changed my pressure switch 2 years ago, and it really was pretty easy. Be careful towards the rear area vacuum line that controls the havoc,that you don’t pinch or pull it loose from its connector
Great video! I've been putting off changing my air check valve also located behind the intake. I was intimidated to remove the intake, but your video has given me confidence. I have also seen other videos where the radiator was drained prior to removing the intake, and I didn't want to go through all that. Your process seems simple and easy. Thanks! I will also be changing everything you mentioned as well as the secondary air injection valve. 2003 Z06 55k
Like most of you, I'm a multi vehicle owner. I developed an oil leak on my 1997 7.3L powerstroke diesel engine. (pickup). No gasket leaks. Oil plug not stripped. Oil filter okay. etc etc etc. There was some sort of "plug" on the back of my engine, very similar to this description here. Mechanic found it and made the repair quickly and easily because of the very ample space between the engine and firewall. Im mentioning this because it might help someone else on yet another type vehicle. I havent had any oil leakage problems with my C6 2006 Vette with 39X miles,,,,LS2 engine. Thanks for your time reading this. I just like helping other people with their problems.
Great video! I like learning about the what-may-go-wrong things and the best way to address them, and especially those adjacent things that makes so much sense to replace while you're in there. I've got a '04 with only 16K but I know things are going to break just because of age (just had to replace a window regulator). Keep up the good content, I'm sure you'll blow past 40K subscribers.
Great advice! Any time something goes bad, and it's located in the remote regions of the engine bay, I get all the other limited-life gadgets replaced at that time. Otherwise, with my luck, I’ll be spelunking to the same place a month later.
I’d love to see a step by step video of this. I’m an ok beginner mechanic but I usually need some visuals to help me get going. Nonetheless great video and channel. Thanks.
There’s also a special socket that was made for gm oil pressure senders that’s made with very thin walls. With that socket, a universal joint, and an extension, you can get the sender out just by moving the valve cover breather hard pipes out of the way. Comes out easily, but then you do have to reinstall the sender by hand until you get it threaded a few turns, then finish it off with the special socket. So if your hands are small that also works. Mine is a race only car so i ended up cutting a hole over it later on.
Thanks Lyle for another great video, especially on the tip to change out the knock sensors. If and when mine fails I know where to go to change them !! Saved this video for my DIY type project
Outstanding "How To" video !!! You really build C5 owner's knowledge and confidence to do the work themselves. I have already done a few things based on your videos and products, like the horn membrane, which works like new now !!! Doing the oil pressure sensor next with the lonks provided and then onto the rocking seats with your kit. Thanks again for the great videos and product resources !!!
Thanks for the video it's fantastic, but I'm surprised the valley gasket wasn't included in this list. I just did the sending unit and went ahead and did all of the above as well as that gasket.
I subscribed just now. Also I've seen videos of people replacing that sender without taking off the intake manifold. BTW, I've rebuilt 8 totaled C5's. A friend and mentor, Shirl Dickey rebuilt 28 totaled C5's.
I was driving home when I noticed my was pegged at the max. I pulled over and had my wife come get me. After doing some research I has happy to find I could drive the car without damaging anything. I had the sensor replaced within a week and like you said I had them replace everything else since the intake was off. The C5 has alot of quirks to it like a fallen HUD or broken shift linkage.
Mine is bad. Oil pressure while driving is 19-21 psi and leaks a little oil for the time I have it sitting in the garage. Hasn’t gone in to limp mode (yet) though
yes mine was 17 pis at idle when sensor went bad i thought motor was toast or relif vavle in oil pump when bad lots say they peg the gauge most i have seen read low
I've had my C5 roughly 2 1/2 years, and I experienced this within the first two months of having the car. I managed to replace it without removing the intake or cutting the fiberglass, but if it ever happens again, I'll take this route and do all the above. FYI - Mine was stuck closed, and the car immediately went into limp mode, and I couldn't drive it until I replaced the sensor. I always appreciate the information I get from your videos Lyle, and C&S will be my go to source for parts for my Vette 😉
Had a dealer replace two new factory switches in a roe one failed after 20 minutes reading 120 psi. called them got a second one installed it failed after 5 minutes so I said forget it 5 years later I had to do a lower plenum so I got an after market one and it's been good for 7 years now. And the hole in the cowl area was the same solution I had for it 10 years ago just putting a good fitting rubber plug with a little silicone on it to help sealing.
Thank you Lyle! I had marked this for later to get the parts links while I am pulling the SAI system this winter. I enjoy your sincere and helpful videos!
Follow up, always make sure to test your knock sensors before installing them. I had a newly installed knock sensor fail after just 4 days of driving. Had I tested it before installing, I may have found that the voltage was not quite right. A DMM with min/max hold will make this testing way easier for you. Figured this out on the second ones that came in as a replacement. Glad I tested the second set before pulling intake manifold and just installing them. I am suspecting that somewhere in shipping, they were banged around enough to just slightly damage the crystal and the car finished them off.
The problem is crazy with my c6z I've had 2 sensors go out this year. It looks like this should be compatible with the ls1 and ls7s...worth a shot at least thanks for the information!
Thanks Lyle I haven't purchased ac5 yet been looking for a year and a half long story but I'm going to get one Lord willing soon and you've given me a lot of tools to work with when I do get one and what to look for and that is awesome I owned a lot of Porsches I was a Millwright 4 electric production for utility companies I am retired been hit hard with divorces looking for my last great hurray with a C5 Corvette
Thanks for the video. I learned a lot of very useful information. It’s funny to hear you talking about 40k subscribers when today, a few years later, you are sitting at over 60k.
I literally changed mine on my 97 without taking anything apart. I remember it being a slight pain in the butt. But, it is possible. Didn’t have to cut anything either.
I’ve had my C5 16 years always a daily driver. The first time I removed the manifold. The second time I relocated the sensor to the front of the engine. I read an article on corvette blog about it. Both sensors didn’t leak. The second one just left in the original spot 8 years now and still not leaking. With the sensor in the front of the block it does not overheat and will not cook like the ones in the back. Was a simple fix screws right in and just had to extend the wires to reach it. If you don’t want to leave the bad one in The plug from the front fits perfectly in the original spot.
Hay Lyle, always great information and presented as clear as possible. Thanks and I'm subscribed so I won't mis the next one 2003 C5 from Pennsylvania !
Got my c5 lay july & 4 months later i had to replace the oil pressure sensor . I watched a video on how to replace it and I did it my self , I did open a hole by the windshield whipper area to be able to replace this part easier. I payed about $50 for parts compared to $1500 the dealer ship wanted to charge me lol and I always have a extra sensor JUST incase
Just getting ready to R&R that sensor on a C6. I plan to just drill a hole through the cowl large enough for a 3/8 extension to fit through since I can place a socket on the sensor by reaching thru the the space under the cowl. I would not cut a big ugly square port as shown in this vid.
The manifold doesn't need to come off for this job. Lyle skipped one of the most effective, cheap, and easy ways to do the OPS swap. All you need is a sensor socket (Mac SC46), socket swivel, ratchet extension, ratchet, fuel line disconnect, wire hanger to pop the sensor clip. Remove the fuel rails only. It helps (but not needed) to have a 2 inch piece of garden hose to insert the sensor on the end and give you an extra inch to get the sensor started finger tight without cross threading. I've owned 3 C5's and still have the '99 I bought brand new. I've swapped 6 oil pressure sensors across 3 cars in 25 years of ownership. It can be done with the above tools in 30 minutes or less for just the cost of the sensor.
Thanks man, much appreciated. I might try this but also replacing the knock sensors and intake manifold gaskets doesn’t seem like a bad idea either. Between a girlfriend, work and taking care of ones self I don’t have 3 hours to mess with the car. 30 minutes is more reasonable. Took me barley 30 minutes to replace my headlight gear myself it was wonderful.
@@camarogoskrrrt3534I'm like you in that I'm typically pulling 60 hour weeks. So my weekends are precious time to spend with my wife and doing fun things like driving/riding my vehicles. Not wrenching on them. The knock sensor makes sense if you are removing the intake. If there's no knock or CEL then there is no reason to just go in and replace them. It's a "while you're in there" suggestion. The oil pressure sensor is $50 or so and can be done as I've described in under 30 minutes. Only things to truly caution are 1) don't break the wires to the sensor 2) don't cross thread the sensor.
PS...the intake gaskets should only be replaced if you remove the intake. They arent a "wear item" and don't need replacement if the intake stays on. I've done it both ways and the intake removal is easy enough but it's not necessary and replacing the gaskets for an OPS swap is just a waste of money.
I came here to watch it being done on video. Not every bolt turned, but a little footage of something on everything to get a general idea as I went along. Especially on hard to get to things. This wasn't a video, it was like getting instructions over the phone. You explained things well, but I thought this was an actual video of at least seeing a few wrenches turned.
I understand that you were expecting one thing and experienced another, but I never intimated in the video or the verbal description that this was a how-to tutorial. I wish I had the time to do full-on step-by-step videos on everything, but I still have to run a shop and make enough money to pay the bills and feed my family. I really do all that I can for free on here to help the hobby. Lyle
@@csvette I meant no offense, I was just a little frustrated going through all the videos trying to find what I needed. Like I stated, your vid was helpful to a point and I understand your time limitations. I've used and found a lot of your other C5 vids that were very helpful. Along with this one and a few others on here I have been able to piece them together to get the job done. I thank you for what info you do post and I will continue to view and use them. Thank you for your reply.
@@antithug7942 No offense taken, my friend! Just clarifying our limitations on some of our subject matter. I am happy that you find our content useful, and look forward to providing many more videos over the coming months/years! Lyle :
So Amazon claims that the knock sensors and harness does not fit the c5 that you have listed in the description. Just want to confirm that is the correct part number before I order it. Mine are bad and keep throwing codes so I figured I would go ahead and replace the oil pressure sensor while I'm in there. Thanks for the info.
I just checked the link to Amazon for that kit, and made sure that it is correct for 97-04 Corvettes. It comes up green, so I'm not sure what you are seeing on your end. Dorman 926-084 is the linked product. Lyle :)
That's so weird, it said let's confirm it fits, so I selected 97 corvette and it says it doesn't fit. Could there have been a different knock sensor for that first year of the c5?
What is or where does that screen go that came with the sensor. I watched your video and then ordered everything you recommended. My sons and I are new to corvette’s. I bought it so we could spend time together and we are going to tackle this on our 98 c5. Thanks for the great video
I have a very nice clean 09 Chevrolet Silverado truck I'm having trouble with the 8... 4 fuel management am I going to have trouble with my recently purchased c5 2001 should I or can I delete it .. I think I'm a subscriber to your channel I have been watching you for way over a year before I purchase this car thank you for all your info
Always great advice Lyle. I am about to tackle my oil pressure sensor and was wondering if there is any easier access from underneath. Thanks, and have a great day.
KIA Sorento and Sedonas with the V6 have a similar evil problem. The oil pressure switch is under the intake but at the end farthest away from the transmission. When the switch starts leaking, it does two things. First, oil leaks externally down the valley to the transmission, and flows down and makes it look like the rear main seal is leaking. The next thing it does is even crazier. Oil under pressure from the switch will actually get pushed into the insulation of the wiring (where the copper is), and the oil will come out in various places, but usually at a group of solenoids mounted on the front of the engine valve cover area where the serpentine belt is. It will leak onto the solenoids and down on the serpentine belt and front cover, making it seem like there are leaks there too. Thankfully there is a TSB about it and KIA has extended warranty coverage for this item to be fixed.
I have a 2004 Commemorative Edition Le Mans Blue with the stripes, I have it now for 15 years, 65'000 miles, super car not too many mechanical problem, had to change the magnetic shock absorber, cost me around $5,000. also changed both electric windows mechanism (expensive & time consuming) after reading Lyle on the Oil Pressure Sensor, can anyone tell me if I should change this part. Car is running well lot's of power, how should I know if need to be changed.. Also need to repair the HVAC DIsplay Climate control, cannot read the temperature, I will try to do it myself.Other that that I love this beautiful car
Just cut the plastic add some screws and make it easier and even easier next time. O'Reilys sensor does look better than OEM and is cheaper. I killed my second sensor when it got hit with brake fluid due to my stupid addition of the remote bleeder for the slave cylinder. Don't add extra joints that can leak was my lesson, GM engineers did it right.
Maybe the hole you cut above your sensor to access it allowed brake fluid to get on it...🤔
@@seanfarley1758 No. My access is fully sealed back up with screws for access. Brake fluid came from the clutch slave, on the same side of the duct as the sensor! If I left the hole open, the fluid might of missed the sensor but went into the interior!!
I once bought 2 different thermostats for a '78 Volvo. One from a Volvo dealer and 1 from AutoZone. Both said Roberts on them and were identical. I returned the Volvo one. 😅
As an ASE CMAT and I've had to do this twice on my '01. Cut a coat hanger and bend one end at 90 degrees to un-clip the wire then use a 3/8 ratchet, a 3/8 to1/4 adapter, a 10 in. long 1/4 in. extension, a 1/4 in universal., a 1/4 to 3/8 in. adapter and the 3/8 drive special socket (MAC #SC46) The first time it took 30 minutes and the next time 15 minutes. It is a tight fit, and it can be done. Thanks Lyle! ;D
While the manifold is off you should also replace the passenger side air check valve, which ALL go bad.
Sad to say, I instantly recognized the part being held up , so could almost guess the topic and what was going to be discussed. Always glad that this channel is here to discuss topics with both knowledge and experience , as kind of a countermeasure to all the corvette channels who manage to buy a camera and then give poorly informed advice , some no better than gossip that they heard multiple times elsewhere on the internet and pass on as solid repair tips.
I did this job , but didn't know enough to change my knock sensors, so I appreciate the tip and the helpful link. I did clean my air flow sensor , returning it to a shiny color, and cleaned a surprising amount of oily dirt that had collected in the crevices of the throttle body. When I opened my new gasket kit, only then did I learn that I was missing the sponge dirt blockers that fit under each end of the manifold, after puzzling over what these sponge things were for a while, because they didn't look like gaskets, and I hadn't removed anything like that so far.
I was very unskilled at the time, and didn't even know all the wires were held on by clips. Consequently , I followed some bad advice that suggested a shortcut removal, and I accidentally destroyed my connector clip, because the advice didn't mention any securing device on the connector, just said remove the connector , and I was working blindly with extension tools, as suggested , and without feel, trying to avoiding cutting a hole in my car and what I thought was a job beyond my skill level. I bought an extension pigtail to replace the destroyed connector, but don't know which wire is which , because the oil sensor wires on my car are not color coded. I really hope I can figure which wire goes where without hurting something electronic.
Stuff like that experience is why I have some resentment towards guys who have a camera, know that Corvettes get clicks, so give out marginal or worse corvette advice, where guys who want to learn, like me, but haven't yet learned the hard way to double check non professional internet advice , can get burned.
Richard, I'm sorry that you have had such a bad experience with this job. I try to give enough detail to be helpful without leading people into a job that is beyond their skill--not saying that you are included in that group!. IF I can be of help with your problem, email me through our website and I will do whatever I can to get you to the finish line. Lyle
@@csvette that is a very kind offer, and much appreciated . I will be in touch, and greatly appreciate the gift of valuable time. The manifold removal wasn't a bad experience, the result , once I decided to skip the shortcuts, was actually mildly satisfying. I didn't get the satisfaction of a job well done, since I couldn't complete the sensor wiring, but I feel the cleaning done along the way was very productive, and I learned a little bit about how to work on the car.
The problems resulting from inexperience along the way were easily solved, save for the wiring I destroyed, and that was purely the result of ignorance, from not being able to identify bad advice. I was completely unprepared that someone would offer flawed car repair advice. To me that would be equivalent to lying.
Now that I have owned the car for awhile, and have gotten a feel for some the Bs people post about Corvette repair on the internet sites and RUclips , I have a much more careful approach. I actually hope to be acquire the skills to steward the car well enough so that after it leaves my hands, and faces the inevitable decision if it will be scrapped or saved, it will be nice enough to make the cut.
@@csvette Hi! great content and info in all your videos; quick question do ALL LS engines and variations of it like LSA have the oil pressure sending unit issue???
Just got my replaced this week on my 2000 C5, need a oil pan gasket valve cover gaskets, the guy did a great job was really happy with the work .
I had one replaced last year by a specialized Corvette shop. But I learned more about this sensor from you more than ever. Thanks for a very informative video Lyle! 🏆
I used to drill a small hole with a hole saw in the wiper box. And then plug the hole with a plastic plug. The tech next to me didn't like doing it my way, so he pulled the intake. Well as luck would have it, something got dropped down into one of the ports. Bent a valve and messed up the piston. After that fiasco he would drill a hole.
Did the exact same thing, replaces mine several times, takes 10 mins with the hole. Plug it back up, and on your way. Wiper tool is cheap.
Just bought a 2003 w/ 45k miles. I look forward to learning from you. Thank you and keep rocking the world
I like all the advice that you give. You have helped me do several things to my C5 that I would have never done without your help and videos. Thank you.
Wow almost had 40K subscribers and now 64.8K. Yall are doing well and for good reason.
Thank you! It is folks like you who have helped us get to where we are today! Lyle :)
Wow!
I love learning how easy it is to work on a C5 Corvette.
Watching your videos makes a lot of maintenance easier to accomplish.
Thank you Lyle. 😊
I watched and 'liked' this video 8 months ago. Today my OP sensor went out, stuck on 80 PSI. I just ordered the parts that you suggested. Now, after the 1st of the year, I will fix the problem myself, as you have suggested. Thanks again for the valuable information. My 01 has 76000 miles on it...
I'm sorry that it failed on you, but I'm happy we were able to help provide the info to get you back on the road! Lyle :)
Changing the knock sensor is not good advise. I did it, as you recommended, and found out, at the Corvette forum, that I shouldn't have. It turns out that if they aren't bad they should be left alone. The knock sensor replacements are very difficult to get working, if they work at all. I'm in the process of re-installing the old ones, which were working well. i hope they come back to life, because I may have a real problem. For those reading this, DON'T MESS WITH THE KNOCK SENSOR. If it's not broke, don't fix it!
You need to buy factory OEM components for the knock sensors. Need to go to a GM dealer and buy them, not the crap from O’Reillys or AutoZone. They are not the same, and they are different part numbers. You can get a harness from just about anywhere, but the sensors themselves must come from GM only.
I replaced one a few years ago on my 03 Z06 without taking the intake off. I did it by using a mirror and reaching back behind the intake from the top. I used a pivoting socket and then torqued it down. It took all day doing that thing blindly but it worked. Wrist hurt for days. Lol
😂
C6 is so far back and around can't even touch it . C5 guys have a chance .
Thanks for the detailed explanation. The 1st time my sensor failed, it drove the gage to 80 PSI. I replaced it the hard way. No drilled hole. No manifold removal. Just 2 hours of cussing while trying to get the old sensor out using whatever tools I could find. Then, about a year later, the "new" sensor also failed. Then I bought another sensor and the relocation kit. It's now installed and working great! Now, when this sensor fails (and it will), it will be a piece of cake to replace.
Question for you, did you have any issues connecting the wires / plug to the extended sensor
@@robertmcsorley4001 No problems at all. The wires were just long enough to allow me to place the sensor on top of the intake manifold.
Thanks Lyle! Your channel is a Godsend. Ever since I bought my '04 'Vette 2 1/2 years ago, you've been my go to source for automotive headache relief! 😂
So far with 45,000 miles on my 2004 Vette I’ve had none of these issues. Thanks for the great video on my upcoming problems I could have.😯 I’m in no hurry though.😉
Mine is at 80k and all these are coming up now sad to say , but thankful for Lyle and others to help us
If you put the old pressure sensor back in the factory location, you are a bigger fool than GM engineers. It is a shit load of work just for that little 25 or $30 sensor, buying a relocation kit is the best thing to do. Your local Napa or Parker hydraulic hose store will be able to make one for you for less than $50.
Probably one of your best tutorial videos! Really enjoy Friday afternoons….learning from you! Keep it up
Spot on with the gasket replacement as those foam protectors that are supposed to keep fluid away from knock sensors is typically toast, and you probably want to take a can of barryman to the intake manifold to get any oil out the pcv has sucked up.
at same time, also replace the air pump exhaust gas check valve for passenger side located on rear driver side attached to block and requires intake manifold removal.
Depending on what state you are, you do not need that air pump. You can pull all that bullshit off of there, and remove the air pump from the front of the vehicle.
Yup, Lol I just replace mine, and it fixes the leak too, fyi better change the camshaft sensor too while your intake manifold is off, might as well also check your fuel injectors for dirt,etc and look inside the intake for oil. Look at your throttle body. Intake gaskets, etc. IF YOU OWN A c5 in general get ready for maintenance 😂
Lyle, thanks for the ongoing corvette tutorial especially on my beloved 2004 C5.
Ned advice, I'm a diesel mach, who's helping a friend pull the head on an 01 Corvette, it blew a plug out of the 5 hole, I told him chevs don't blow plugs unless it fill with oil or fuel but a garage told him it's common on that engine, yes or no,
Great, concise description of an easy job that will keep your Corvette running good.
5:51 we are baffled about a silver metal braided cable with a bleeder type valve at the end, just hanging loose by the clutch cylinder. I now think that may be the remote bleeder you mentioned.
Since these cars are 20 years old and Lyle mentioned vacuum lines at the back, wouldn't replacing these lines also make sense while you're in there? Kinda' 'whilimatits' taking place. Thank you Lyle for an informative how-to-do-it!
You make the most informative videos! Thank you for doing what you do! Greatly appreciated!
Great Video! I changed my pressure switch 2 years ago, and it really was pretty easy. Be careful towards the rear area vacuum line that controls the havoc,that you don’t pinch or pull it loose from its connector
I love that you mentioned that there is a relocation kit for this item. Once again, well done on this information. 👍👍 Save the Wave 🙋♂
Great video! I've been putting off changing my air check valve also located behind the intake. I was intimidated to remove the intake, but your video has given me confidence. I have also seen other videos where the radiator was drained prior to removing the intake, and I didn't want to go through all that. Your process seems simple and easy. Thanks! I will also be changing everything you mentioned as well as the secondary air injection valve. 2003 Z06 55k
Like most of you, I'm a multi vehicle owner. I developed an oil leak on my 1997 7.3L powerstroke diesel engine. (pickup). No gasket leaks. Oil plug not stripped. Oil filter okay. etc etc etc. There was some sort of "plug" on the back of my engine, very similar to this description here. Mechanic found it and made the repair quickly and easily because of the very ample space between the engine and firewall. Im mentioning this because it might help someone else on yet another type vehicle. I havent had any oil leakage problems with my C6 2006 Vette with 39X miles,,,,LS2 engine. Thanks for your time reading this. I just like helping other people with their problems.
Great video! I like learning about the what-may-go-wrong things and the best way to address them, and especially those adjacent things that makes so much sense to replace while you're in there. I've got a '04 with only 16K but I know things are going to break just because of age (just had to replace a window regulator). Keep up the good content, I'm sure you'll blow past 40K subscribers.
Great advice! Any time something goes bad, and it's located in the remote regions of the engine bay, I get all the other limited-life gadgets replaced at that time. Otherwise, with my luck, I’ll be spelunking to the same place a month later.
I’d love to see a step by step video of this. I’m an ok beginner mechanic but I usually need some visuals to help me get going. Nonetheless great video and channel. Thanks.
There’s also a special socket that was made for gm oil pressure senders that’s made with very thin walls. With that socket, a universal joint, and an extension, you can get the sender out just by moving the valve cover breather hard pipes out of the way. Comes out easily, but then you do have to reinstall the sender by hand until you get it threaded a few turns, then finish it off with the special socket. So if your hands are small that also works. Mine is a race only car so i ended up cutting a hole over it later on.
Thanks Lyle for another great video, especially on the tip to change out the knock sensors. If and when mine fails I know where to go to change them !! Saved this video for my DIY type project
Thankyou! Always nice to learn about the inner workings of a Corvette!
Lyle as usual Great information making the job easy as possible
Outstanding "How To" video !!! You really build C5 owner's knowledge and confidence to do the work themselves. I have already done a few things based on your videos and products, like the horn membrane, which works like new now !!! Doing the oil pressure sensor next with the lonks provided and then onto the rocking seats with your kit. Thanks again for the great videos and product resources !!!
Thanks for the video it's fantastic, but I'm surprised the valley gasket wasn't included in this list. I just did the sending unit and went ahead and did all of the above as well as that gasket.
I subscribed just now. Also I've seen videos of people replacing that sender without taking off the intake manifold. BTW, I've rebuilt 8 totaled C5's. A friend and mentor, Shirl Dickey rebuilt 28 totaled C5's.
I was driving home when I noticed my was pegged at the max. I pulled over and had my wife come get me. After doing some research I has happy to find I could drive the car without damaging anything. I had the sensor replaced within a week and like you said I had them replace everything else since the intake was off. The C5 has alot of quirks to it like a fallen HUD or broken shift linkage.
Great video, thank you. I wish I was closer to you guys, my c-5 needs a little TLC
Great Channel, always look forward to your videos to learn more about these cars. Really appreciate how well you explain things in great detail.
Mine is bad. Oil pressure while driving is 19-21 psi and leaks a little oil for the time I have it sitting in the garage. Hasn’t gone in to limp mode (yet) though
yes mine was 17 pis at idle when sensor went bad i thought motor was toast or relif vavle in oil pump when bad lots say they peg the gauge most i have seen read low
I probably do the steam vent ports and the valley PAN gasket as well while you have that intake out
I've had my C5 roughly 2 1/2 years, and I experienced this within the first two months of having the car.
I managed to replace it without removing the intake or cutting the fiberglass, but if it ever happens again, I'll take this route and do all the above.
FYI - Mine was stuck closed, and the car immediately went into limp mode, and I couldn't drive it until I replaced the sensor.
I always appreciate the information I get from your videos Lyle, and C&S will be my go to source for parts for my Vette 😉
Thank you, Sam!!! :) Lyle
Had a dealer replace two new factory switches in a roe one failed after 20 minutes reading 120 psi. called them got a second one installed it failed after 5 minutes so I said forget it 5 years later I had to do a lower plenum so I got an after market one and it's been good for 7 years now. And the hole in the cowl area was the same solution I had for it 10 years ago just putting a good fitting rubber plug with a little silicone on it to help sealing.
Thank you Lyle! I had marked this for later to get the parts links while I am pulling the SAI system this winter. I enjoy your sincere and helpful videos!
Follow up, always make sure to test your knock sensors before installing them. I had a newly installed knock sensor fail after just 4 days of driving. Had I tested it before installing, I may have found that the voltage was not quite right. A DMM with min/max hold will make this testing way easier for you. Figured this out on the second ones that came in as a replacement. Glad I tested the second set before pulling intake manifold and just installing them.
I am suspecting that somewhere in shipping, they were banged around enough to just slightly damage the crystal and the car finished them off.
The problem is crazy with my c6z I've had 2 sensors go out this year. It looks like this should be compatible with the ls1 and ls7s...worth a shot at least thanks for the information!
Fantastic vid Lyle. Mine only has 28k so I haven't experienced this issue. Thanks for the information!
Thanks Lyle I haven't purchased ac5 yet been looking for a year and a half long story but I'm going to get one Lord willing soon and you've given me a lot of tools to work with when I do get one and what to look for and that is awesome I owned a lot of Porsches I was a Millwright 4 electric production for utility companies I am retired been hit hard with divorces looking for my last great hurray with a C5 Corvette
Thanks for the video. I learned a lot of very useful information. It’s funny to hear you talking about 40k subscribers when today, a few years later, you are sitting at over 60k.
My pleasure, and thank you for watching! Crazy to think we hit 60K subs in just 16 months! Lyle :)
I literally changed mine on my 97 without taking anything apart. I remember it being a slight pain in the butt. But, it is possible. Didn’t have to cut anything either.
Me too !
thank you ,thinking of buying a 2000 c5 with 32,000 miles ..great info!
Lyle: Thanks again for the details.
I’ve had my C5 16 years always a daily driver. The first time I removed the manifold. The second time I relocated the sensor to the front of the engine. I read an article on corvette blog about it. Both sensors didn’t leak. The second one just left in the original spot 8 years now and still not leaking. With the sensor in the front of the block it does not overheat and will not cook like the ones in the back. Was a simple fix screws right in and just had to extend the wires to reach it. If you don’t want to leave the bad one in The plug from the front fits perfectly in the original spot.
Where did you place the sensor at the front of the engine? If you could send me some pics, I'd love to see that! lyle@corvettepartscenter.com
These tidbits are so helpful. Thanks for educating us.
Wow I bet this is the problem at my 2004 oil leak and reduced power issues! Thank you 🙏🙏🎹
Yup... had this exact same issue
I would love a series of meticulous maintenance like this for a c6 z06 😎
I appreciate your top tips!
Thank you for educating me on the various systems of my C6.
I love the channel and I love the LED marker lights you sold me for my C5. Congratulations Lyle, That's 80,000 New Balance shoes.
Hay Lyle, always great information and presented as clear as possible. Thanks and I'm subscribed so I won't mis the next one 2003 C5 from Pennsylvania !
Got my c5 lay july & 4 months later i had to replace the oil pressure sensor . I watched a video on how to replace it and I did it my self , I did open a hole by the windshield whipper area to be able to replace this part easier. I payed about $50 for parts compared to $1500 the dealer ship wanted to charge me lol and I always have a extra sensor JUST incase
Excellent video. Simple and concise repair instructions.
Takk!
Just getting ready to R&R that sensor on a C6. I plan to just drill a hole through the cowl large enough for a 3/8 extension to fit through since I can place a socket on the sensor by reaching thru the the space under the cowl. I would not cut a big ugly square port as shown in this vid.
Yup, my gauge has been pegged at 80 for months now. So annoying. I work 65 hours a week, really dont wanna have to take the manifold off….
The manifold doesn't need to come off for this job. Lyle skipped one of the most effective, cheap, and easy ways to do the OPS swap. All you need is a sensor socket (Mac SC46), socket swivel, ratchet extension, ratchet, fuel line disconnect, wire hanger to pop the sensor clip. Remove the fuel rails only. It helps (but not needed) to have a 2 inch piece of garden hose to insert the sensor on the end and give you an extra inch to get the sensor started finger tight without cross threading.
I've owned 3 C5's and still have the '99 I bought brand new. I've swapped 6 oil pressure sensors across 3 cars in 25 years of ownership. It can be done with the above tools in 30 minutes or less for just the cost of the sensor.
Thanks man, much appreciated. I might try this but also replacing the knock sensors and intake manifold gaskets doesn’t seem like a bad idea either. Between a girlfriend, work and taking care of ones self I don’t have 3 hours to mess with the car. 30 minutes is more reasonable. Took me barley 30 minutes to replace my headlight gear myself it was wonderful.
@@camarogoskrrrt3534I'm like you in that I'm typically pulling 60 hour weeks. So my weekends are precious time to spend with my wife and doing fun things like driving/riding my vehicles. Not wrenching on them.
The knock sensor makes sense if you are removing the intake. If there's no knock or CEL then there is no reason to just go in and replace them. It's a "while you're in there" suggestion. The oil pressure sensor is $50 or so and can be done as I've described in under 30 minutes. Only things to truly caution are 1) don't break the wires to the sensor 2) don't cross thread the sensor.
PS...the intake gaskets should only be replaced if you remove the intake. They arent a "wear item" and don't need replacement if the intake stays on.
I've done it both ways and the intake removal is easy enough but it's not necessary and replacing the gaskets for an OPS swap is just a waste of money.
Great video explained very well . Always enjoy the videos . Because you can teach an old dog like me a new trick
I came here to watch it being done on video. Not every bolt turned, but a little footage of something on everything to get a general idea as I went along. Especially on hard to get to things. This wasn't a video, it was like getting instructions over the phone. You explained things well, but I thought this was an actual video of at least seeing a few wrenches turned.
I understand that you were expecting one thing and experienced another, but I never intimated in the video or the verbal description that this was a how-to tutorial. I wish I had the time to do full-on step-by-step videos on everything, but I still have to run a shop and make enough money to pay the bills and feed my family. I really do all that I can for free on here to help the hobby. Lyle
@@csvette I meant no offense, I was just a little frustrated going through all the videos trying to find what I needed. Like I stated, your vid was helpful to a point and I understand your time limitations. I've used and found a lot of your other C5 vids that were very helpful. Along with this one and a few others on here I have been able to piece them together to get the job done. I thank you for what info you do post and I will continue to view and use them. Thank you for your reply.
@@antithug7942 No offense taken, my friend! Just clarifying our limitations on some of our subject matter. I am happy that you find our content useful, and look forward to providing many more videos over the coming months/years! Lyle :
Thank You for sharing these Great topics and videos. Very Helpful !!!
Thanks
You are a SUPER intelligent , many thanks for your great info , cheer's m8 !
Great video, my oil pressure is pegged and I knew I had to deal with it. Just got the car out today, 80 in Ct, and so I ordered the parts.
Are you going to do any video on C6 body grounds? That trigger the service charging system light?
Do you have an instructional video to change the Yellow valve springs on a 2002 C5 Z06?
any videos on changing the harmonic balancer on a 1998 C5 ?
Vey good explanation
I have got to get one of these toys. Inside all of us lurks a Corvette owner somewhere.
Thanks Lyle. Great information as always.
So Amazon claims that the knock sensors and harness does not fit the c5 that you have listed in the description. Just want to confirm that is the correct part number before I order it. Mine are bad and keep throwing codes so I figured I would go ahead and replace the oil pressure sensor while I'm in there.
Thanks for the info.
I just checked the link to Amazon for that kit, and made sure that it is correct for 97-04 Corvettes. It comes up green, so I'm not sure what you are seeing on your end. Dorman 926-084 is the linked product. Lyle :)
That's so weird, it said let's confirm it fits, so I selected 97 corvette and it says it doesn't fit. Could there have been a different knock sensor for that first year of the c5?
Great information! Thank Lyle...
You brought back memories when I owned a C5, mine got stuck open.
Thanks for another great, informative video Lyle!
I did mine without pulling the intake, or cutting the cowl. Took about a half hour and a lot of dexterity.
What is or where does that screen go that came with the sensor. I watched your video and then ordered everything you recommended. My sons and I are new to corvette’s. I bought it so we could spend time together and we are going to tackle this on our 98 c5. Thanks for the great video
I have a very nice clean 09 Chevrolet Silverado truck I'm having trouble with the 8... 4 fuel management am I going to have trouble with my recently purchased c5 2001 should I or can I delete it .. I think I'm a subscriber to your channel I have been watching you for way over a year before I purchase this car thank you for all your info
Always great advice Lyle. I am about to tackle my oil pressure sensor and was wondering if there is any easier access from underneath. Thanks, and have a great day.
There is not. The Sensor sits vertically at the rear of the block, so getting to it from under the car is virtually impossible. Lyle :)
Most C5s have coolant lines to the throttle body and it makes a mess, but overall it’s a fairly easy job. I have done it multiple times.
The Oil Pressure relocation sensor I hear you say something about a clutch my car is an automated transmission, will I still need it.
Can you provide the purchase link for the oil pressure sensor and adapter for a C-5 1999 corvette? Thanks.
Links to both are in the video description. Click the MORE in the description to see them. :) Lyle
good video..how about doing 1 about the Omni-spark sysytem
Thanks Lyle this video will go in my tec file great info !!
Always great stuff, Lyle! It's much appreciated!
I had mine done 2weeks ago.
Looking at a C5 for a good budget weekend toy. Thanks for the helpful video. Liked and subscribed :)
KIA Sorento and Sedonas with the V6 have a similar evil problem. The oil pressure switch is under the intake but at the end farthest away from the transmission. When the switch starts leaking, it does two things. First, oil leaks externally down the valley to the transmission, and flows down and makes it look like the rear main seal is leaking. The next thing it does is even crazier. Oil under pressure from the switch will actually get pushed into the insulation of the wiring (where the copper is), and the oil will come out in various places, but usually at a group of solenoids mounted on the front of the engine valve cover area where the serpentine belt is. It will leak onto the solenoids and down on the serpentine belt and front cover, making it seem like there are leaks there too. Thankfully there is a TSB about it and KIA has extended warranty coverage for this item to be fixed.
Great advice! Thanks Lyle
I have a 2004 Commemorative Edition Le Mans Blue with the stripes, I have it now for 15 years, 65'000 miles, super car not too many mechanical problem, had to change the magnetic shock absorber, cost me around $5,000. also changed both electric windows mechanism (expensive & time consuming) after reading Lyle on the Oil Pressure Sensor, can anyone tell me if I should change this part. Car is running well lot's of power, how should I know if need to be changed.. Also need to repair the HVAC DIsplay Climate control, cannot read the temperature, I will try to do it myself.Other that that I love this beautiful car