I just bought a 2006 C6 from a dealership. It only had 48,000 miles and in pristine condition. A few days later I noticed a rhythmic squeaking from under the hood so I took it back to the dealership and they said the harmonic balancer needed to be replaced. I did buy a warranty so I was covered. They said the part in only $260 but 6 hours of labor. After watching this video, I see why. WOW. Great video by the way. Really informative.
My 2000 C5 has 125,000 and the harmonic balancer is the original and in great shape. Is it just good luck or maybe GM went to a cheaper HB supplier as time went on? My car has always been garaged, btw.
I followed what you taught and i didn't need to disconnect anything except the radiator and the wheels and "A"frame and shocks. Its alot easier than pulling the abs and rack . Thank you for your time.
Fully charged Milwaukee 1/2 in impact and send her home, after you do the air hammer trick to seat the balencer so you don't strip out threads. Never had a problem that way
Did you use a tool to hold the balancer to keep it from rotating while tightening the bolt? What do I do if I don’t have an air hammer? (I have an old air compressor)Harbor Freight?
@darrylsjodin7184 some people use the heat method. You can find videos on that on RUclips. But harbor freight has cheap air hammers so that might be a good option
@@TaylorParks87 Thank you for responding so quickly! Your method of dropping the front cradle does look easier. Does it also work on the C5? And then again, did you use a tool to hold the balancer from turning while torquing the bolt? Thanks!
Bitchin'! After modifying, restoring, refurbishing and racing around 150 of my own cars & trucks since 1967, I just KNEW there had to be a much simpler, way less messy way to do this job! No need to immobilize the steering wheel, remove the steering rack, drip power steering fluid everywhere, etc. What a timely video, because at 75,000 miles, it's become time for me to swap out the factory harmonic damper on my 2001 Corvette, my 8th Corvette overall. I wish I lived close enough to borrow your lift!
Hey man will comment on this a step by step guide please! Getting ready to do this with my buddy at the shop and want a detailed list on what to do please!
I did this method yesterday on my 2011 Grand Sport. The GS has a steering cooler that is directly in front of the HB bolt, and the lines have very little slack to play with. I got it in the end at the cost of bending some cooler fins. I tried a 2’ breaker bar with a 2’ extension and couldnt break the HB bolt free with the limited ground clearance from using jack stands. Used a IR cordless impact to break it free and this is where I ended up damaging the oil cooler fins. I used a scissor jack and a block of wood to support and raise the motor’s oil pan while dropping the sub frame. All in all, well worth the 8hr jack stand effort vs paying the premium west coast price on an HB install
Did you drop the subframe off the bolts like in the video? I was thinking of maybe not removing the bolts and only dropping an inch or so and then easing the engine like you did. Think that'll give me enough room?
06 C6 with 54K miles and it's time to replace the HB. Thanks so much for the vid. I was dreading it before, but now not so much...Ordered the Summit one with new bolt.
I just did the job today. My c6 has had a wobble since I bought it back in like 2018, it’s my wife’s car now and it got to the point of the belt slipping. I was absolutely blown away at how easy it was to do doing your method of dropping the subframe and I was equally blown away after watching videos of people pulling the steering rack, it seriously makes absolutely no sense to do it that way. I had the crank pulley off in about an hour from when I started and that was taking my time. There was no fuss with anything. All the bolts were a straight shot with an impact. I also replaced the radiator at the same time as it’s had a small leak for ever now, no joke the radiator was much more of a pain in the ass then the pully was.
I know I’m late… but you mentioned how you dealt with wobble for a long time until it started slipping. Mine has some wobble but no squeaks or slips or performance issues. Should I wait til some symptoms arrive?
Idk it’s really up to you. I did the method this guy did and it was super easy honestly. I dreaded it for a long time and probably just should have done it sooner cause it was like a walk in the park. Everything is pretty much a straight shot with impact guns. The only thing that was even remotely a pain I think was getting the rad fan out.
Nice man, I have a 07 c6 base for the last 4 years, it’s the wife’s car now. It’s always had a wobble but it’s to the point of the serpentine belt slipping now at lower rpms so I ordered a new crank pulley, tensioner and belt and plan on doing this job when the parts come in. Looks simple enough using your method.
Pretty jealous of the lift. So I’m trying to put a sorta list together on step by step with everything that you did. -Not sure which HB you went with -crank bolt -GM crankshaft seal -Lower subframe- 1-remove intake 2-remove electric fan 3-remove front wheels 4-jack rotor up 5-remove upper control arm 6-remove shock 7-remove sway bar 8-stabilize engine cradle (not sure where to add jack?) 8-loosen front cradle bolts 9-front cradle hangs down and gives you access to remove HB 10-Install new HB
is there something else missing here, im going to do this job myself very soon, and i really have no mechanical experience but i do have the tools to get the job done
Appreciate it. I think I can do this in 3-4 hrs after this one, maybe even 2 hrs. I am currently doing it on jackstands using two Chinese electric jacks to hold the engine and cradle/cross member. Pulley is off, now installing new one. Only line I had to remove was lower oil cooler line to radiator. I had already removed the steering shaft, so don't know if it was necessary or not.
Just did this on jack stands. Z51 you have a power steering cooler in your way and some extra lines but this method is so much easier than taking the rack off. You still have to lower the subframe to get the rack out so it doesn't even make sense to do it that way.
Doing it on jack stands, how many jacks did you use and I assume you had to pull motor mount bolts to raise the engine a bit? I have an 08 Z51 A6 and I WANT to attempt this, but I'm scared to attempt this. LOL
I’m in the process of replacing my H Balancer on my 2005 Z51. Trying to be super careful because of the power steering cooling system. Don’t want to bend, stretch or damage anything especially this break lines. Question for @Itwargssf: did you disconnect the break lines to the power steering pump and reservoir and was there anything else with the Z51 that comes to mind. I appreciate any input. Much gratitude!!
@@Alvette58 No you support the engine and lower the subframe with the rack and all the lines attached, there is plenty of length in the lines to get the subframe low enough. If you have a base model, it won't concern you but the oil cooler lines will be your limit on how low you can drop the subframe or just disconnect them. Use two jack minimum on the subframe once the engine is supported, put one jack on each corner and just gradually lower each side at a time till you have enough access to the HB. I had enough room to get my HB puller and install tools with the subframe lowered about 4 inches from the frame rails. Torquing the bolt to 235 ft/lbs was the most challenging part and that's ARP's torque spec, the oem style bolt is 240 ft/lbs
2006 C6 with 36k miles. Used this method yesterday to change mine. Did it on the ground and it took me just over 3 hours. The only thin he doesn’t mention is that you may need to disconnect the steering rod to get clearance (I did).
I'm doing my 2005 c6 tomorrow on the ground in my garage, any other tips besides the steering rack??? no steering fluid lines? Thanks in advance for any tips!
I’m going to do the same exact process for a oil pan gasket leak but switch what you did with the cradle bolts I’m going to take the rear completely off and leave the front cradle bolts attached
How long did it take ya on stands? And did you put anything under them for extra clearance or regular stands all the way up? Also where did you place them?
Great video thank you so much. the Tensioner pulley is wobbling I think it's going to my balancer definitely have rough engine idle at 2000 revs Don't know if that's related.
Perhaps you could use a longer crank bolt with same pitch and size to (press) balancer part way on to get regular crank bolt started instead of jackhammering the end of the crank?
I would not try that. You might strip the threads on end of crank. Buy using the hammer you are at least getting it far enough up on crank to get more threads .
Awesome video, but I'm still afraid, I have a 2011 Base Model with a manual trans, Does that affect the procedure in any way? And how long can you live with the wobble? This is my first Corvette. My wife started complaining it was chirping and chattering about 100 miles ago, and I just found the wobble. The car has 44K miles on it. Thanks for taking the time to answer questions
There are a lot of unanswered questions here 1 drop cradle fine but don’t you have to unbolt the front engine mount to seperate it from the cradle??? Is the rack still connected to the column? Why a stand under the diff in vidio?
Yes 2 engine mount nuts are remove to push the engine up, and lower cradle down. Support stand on diff to mitigate car falling off lift. Rack stayed connected.
Can confirm this is how I do. On jack stands. You can pry the subframe down and place sockets as holders and lift the engine with the intake manifold off. Impact gun on the crank bolt. Easy least.
great video man, im gonna do this job on a couple of months, but i was wondering if you suggest to do or not the pin thing on the harmonic balancer ? theres a summit pin kit ready to use with the drill
Pinning the crankshaft has nothing to do with preventing failure of the balancer, so don't do it because you think you've found the key to fixing the issue permanently. Thus, like Taylor said: if you're not supercharging in the future don't bother.
Did you have to disconnect any brake lines or have to disconnect the steering rod bolt?? I wouldn't want to worry about bending any lines or messing up the steering clock spring. Thank you for any information you could give me.
Just re watched the video. If you move the motor up, and let the k member hang on the back studs you don't have to disconnect any steering or brake lines.
@@TaylorParks87 Thank you very much for responding back, I'm getting ready to do this and I just wanted to make sure I didn't screw up anything! Thanks again!
Hey man. Did you consider dropping subframe just a little bit and wedging it and then lifting the engine a bit? Magnuson recommends that to pin to the crank but not sure if I'll have enough room to get the pulley off (if I choose to replace)
Did you torque the bolt with your impact wrench and do you think that's tight enough did you use a torque wrench and do you think you need Loctite cause I just did mine and I used a battery operated 20 V torque wrench which says it torques 355 I'm just hoping it's tight enough
The key is using a new gm bolt. They have locktite on them. Never had a problem with a bunch of ugadagas from the Milwaukee 1/2 impact with bolt coming loose.
You didnt show how u removed the fan lol im currently trying ur way. I have a BIG leak out the crank seal. Friend showed me a video of my car throwing smoke under while driving. It also throws alot of oil if i punch it
Did you disconnect the steering column, any rack lines, brake lines? What about the anti lock mounted on cradle and lines on it? Did the back cradle bolts bend or mess up threads with all the cradle weight? Did you leave sway bar connected to end links?
Did u removed the intermediate shaft between the rack and wheel? How does it not foul when lowering the rack. Sorry doing this soon so wanna make sure im not gonna destroy my steering 😅@TaylorParks87
I have a 2005 c6 automatic convertible, how much would the labor cost to do the same job you just did ? Thanks in advance ...Jim C. -- PS: about how many miles do you have to have on these Corvettes as long as you do not race them for changing out the HB .....
im doing mine very soon just wondering with doing it this way and the rack not being removed will it not need an alignment ? or would it still need one
I just bought my first Corvette C6. And I can see now most of the work that needs to be done on this car. I’m gonna need a lift. Or I guess I’ll be paying someone.
You need to get yourself a newer electric 1/2” drive impact. I got the Hercules one from harbor freight with 1500ftlbs of breakaway torque and it gets the job done without even trying
I’ve always heard around 50k or you can spend $500 and get an ati fluid damper for the Vette which should last the life of the car. They use a completely different design with sealed o rings separating an inner shell from an outter shell.
Yes but... you will need to support the engine from above because here he supported the engine by the oil pan. Can't use it for support if you remove it! If you use a lift you'll need an engine support. If you're using jack stands you can get away with an engine picker, chainfall on an overhead beam, or some other creative means. Saw a guy use a forklift and straps...
This car was stock, and no on more stress if it was cammed. The factory harmonic balancer on these cars had a defect and that's why they wear out and need changing.
Incorrect, there are only 4 studs and nuts that hold up the k member. There are 2 other nuts for motor mounts that you need to remove in order to drop k member.
Heads up disconnect the steering shaft, I followed the video step by step ended up pulling the steering shaft out of the steering column causing the steering angle sensor to pull out almost fucked up a $4,000.00 steering column
Hi Taylor! Thanks so much for posting this, very helpful. Are you located anywhere near Mooresville NC (NASCAR Town)? Would like to hire you to do my balancer. Don’t have time or tools.😔😃👍
That's bullshit. The harmonic balancer is a multi-piece unit that uses a type of butyl/rubber to keep the pieces together. As time passes by, that piece slowly starts to fail and that's why you get this wobble. Pinning the crankshaft will not fix that, and anyone that tells you otherwise is a clueless idiot that shouldn't be working on your car.
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I just bought a 2006 C6 from a dealership. It only had 48,000 miles and in pristine condition. A few days later I noticed a rhythmic squeaking from under the hood so I took it back to the dealership and they said the harmonic balancer needed to be replaced. I did buy a warranty so I was covered. They said the part in only $260 but 6 hours of labor. After watching this video, I see why. WOW. Great video by the way. Really informative.
Thanks!
My 2000 C5 has 125,000 and the harmonic balancer is the original and in great shape. Is it just good luck or maybe GM went to a cheaper HB supplier as time went on? My car has always been garaged, btw.
You saved me. I was about to pull the rack and came across this video. An hour later and the balancer was replaced. Big props to you my guy 🤘🤘
Heck yeah!! Glad it helped save you some time!!
I followed what you taught and i didn't need to disconnect anything except the radiator and the wheels and "A"frame and shocks. Its alot easier than pulling the abs and rack . Thank you for your time.
I just saw reply , tell me how did you torque the harmonic balancer bolt will the engine loose? Thanks in advance 👍
Fully charged Milwaukee 1/2 in impact and send her home, after you do the air hammer trick to seat the balencer so you don't strip out threads. Never had a problem that way
Did you use a tool to hold the balancer to keep it from rotating while tightening the bolt? What do I do if I don’t have an air hammer? (I have an old air compressor)Harbor Freight?
@darrylsjodin7184 some people use the heat method. You can find videos on that on RUclips. But harbor freight has cheap air hammers so that might be a good option
@@TaylorParks87 Thank you for responding so quickly! Your method of dropping the front cradle does look easier. Does it also work on the C5? And then again, did you use a tool to hold the balancer from turning while torquing the bolt? Thanks!
Bitchin'! After modifying, restoring, refurbishing and racing around 150 of my own cars & trucks since 1967, I just KNEW there had to be a much simpler, way less messy way to do this job! No need to immobilize the steering wheel, remove the steering rack, drip power steering fluid everywhere, etc. What a timely video, because at 75,000 miles, it's become time for me to swap out the factory harmonic damper on my 2001 Corvette, my 8th Corvette overall. I wish I lived close enough to borrow your lift!
Did it work on the c5?
Used your brilliant idea and only it took a little over 2 1/2 hours!! thanks for your video.
Did you have to disconnect the steering shaft or any of the power steering fluid lines? Thanks for any information you can give me!
Thanks from Germany and for the video, the balancer was changed in 5 hours!
You're welcome!
Best idea and video on balancer swap. Did exactly the same worked perfectly. Thank you so much 🤜🤛
Thanks! And you're welcome!
Hey man will comment on this a step by step guide please! Getting ready to do this with my buddy at the shop and want a detailed list on what to do please!
I did this method yesterday on my 2011 Grand Sport. The GS has a steering cooler that is directly in front of the HB bolt, and the lines have very little slack to play with. I got it in the end at the cost of bending some cooler fins.
I tried a 2’ breaker bar with a 2’ extension and couldnt break the HB bolt free with the limited ground clearance from using jack stands. Used a IR cordless impact to break it free and this is where I ended up damaging the oil cooler fins.
I used a scissor jack and a block of wood to support and raise the motor’s oil pan while dropping the sub frame.
All in all, well worth the 8hr jack stand effort vs paying the premium west coast price on an HB install
Adapt and overcome! Good job man!
Did you drop the subframe off the bolts like in the video? I was thinking of maybe not removing the bolts and only dropping an inch or so and then easing the engine like you did. Think that'll give me enough room?
06 C6 with 54K miles and it's time to replace the HB. Thanks so much for the vid. I was dreading it before, but now not so much...Ordered the Summit one with new bolt.
Nice!!! Make sure you change the front seal in the front cover as well. Good luck!!
I just did the job today. My c6 has had a wobble since I bought it back in like 2018, it’s my wife’s car now and it got to the point of the belt slipping. I was absolutely blown away at how easy it was to do doing your method of dropping the subframe and I was equally blown away after watching videos of people pulling the steering rack, it seriously makes absolutely no sense to do it that way. I had the crank pulley off in about an hour from when I started and that was taking my time. There was no fuss with anything. All the bolts were a straight shot with an impact. I also replaced the radiator at the same time as it’s had a small leak for ever now, no joke the radiator was much more of a pain in the ass then the pully was.
I know I’m late… but you mentioned how you dealt with wobble for a long time until it started slipping. Mine has some wobble but no squeaks or slips or performance issues. Should I wait til some symptoms arrive?
Idk it’s really up to you. I did the method this guy did and it was super easy honestly. I dreaded it for a long time and probably just should have done it sooner cause it was like a walk in the park. Everything is pretty much a straight shot with impact guns. The only thing that was even remotely a pain I think was getting the rad fan out.
@@auditrevor good to know, appreciate the feedback! I’m less intimidated now
It’s really not bad, especially if you have access to a lift but even without one it wouldn’t be bad at all honeslty.
Nice man, I have a 07 c6 base for the last 4 years, it’s the wife’s car now. It’s always had a wobble but it’s to the point of the serpentine belt slipping now at lower rpms so I ordered a new crank pulley, tensioner and belt and plan on doing this job when the parts come in. Looks simple enough using your method.
Yeah man it ain't to bad, and better to do it before it causes more problems! Thanks for your comment like and subscribe if you feel like it
Pretty jealous of the lift. So I’m trying to put a sorta list together on step by step with everything that you did.
-Not sure which HB you went with
-crank bolt
-GM crankshaft seal
-Lower subframe-
1-remove intake
2-remove electric fan
3-remove front wheels
4-jack rotor up
5-remove upper control arm
6-remove shock
7-remove sway bar
8-stabilize engine cradle (not sure where to add jack?)
8-loosen front cradle bolts
9-front cradle hangs down and gives you access to remove HB
10-Install new HB
is there something else missing here, im going to do this job myself very soon, and i really have no mechanical experience but i do have the tools to get the job done
Great video. I literally just watched after removing everything the old way. But here’s my question,could you remove the cam using this method?
Yes just remove radiator and timing cover and you're there
Appreciate it. I think I can do this in 3-4 hrs after this one, maybe even 2 hrs. I am currently doing it on jackstands using two Chinese electric jacks to hold the engine and cradle/cross member. Pulley is off, now installing new one. Only line I had to remove was lower oil cooler line to radiator. I had already removed the steering shaft, so don't know if it was necessary or not.
Just did this on jack stands. Z51 you have a power steering cooler in your way and some extra lines but this method is so much easier than taking the rack off. You still have to lower the subframe to get the rack out so it doesn't even make sense to do it that way.
Doing it on jack stands, how many jacks did you use and I assume you had to pull motor mount bolts to raise the engine a bit? I have an 08 Z51 A6 and I WANT to attempt this, but I'm scared to attempt this. LOL
same here@@Jamiloknid
I’m in the process of replacing my H Balancer on my 2005 Z51. Trying to be super careful because of the power steering cooling system. Don’t want to bend, stretch or damage anything especially this break lines.
Question for @Itwargssf: did you disconnect the break lines to the power steering pump and reservoir and was there anything else with the Z51 that comes to mind. I appreciate any input. Much gratitude!!
@@Alvette58 No you support the engine and lower the subframe with the rack and all the lines attached, there is plenty of length in the lines to get the subframe low enough.
If you have a base model, it won't concern you but the oil cooler lines will be your limit on how low you can drop the subframe or just disconnect them.
Use two jack minimum on the subframe once the engine is supported, put one jack on each corner and just gradually lower each side at a time till you have enough access to the HB. I had enough room to get my HB puller and install tools with the subframe lowered about 4 inches from the frame rails.
Torquing the bolt to 235 ft/lbs was the most challenging part and that's ARP's torque spec, the oem style bolt is 240 ft/lbs
2006 C6 with 36k miles. Used this method yesterday to change mine. Did it on the ground and it took me just over 3 hours. The only thin he doesn’t mention is that you may need to disconnect the steering rod to get clearance (I did).
Awesome man!!!
I'm doing my 2005 c6 tomorrow on the ground in my garage, any other tips besides the steering rack??? no steering fluid lines? Thanks in advance for any tips!
Thanks for the video brother. Just picked up a C6 and I've gotta do this. 1 of the downsides to a low mileage completely stock c6 😢😊
You're welcome!! Enjoy the car! They are fun!!
I’m going to do the same exact process for a oil pan gasket leak but switch what you did with the cradle bolts I’m going to take the rear completely off and leave the front cradle bolts attached
That would work nicely!! Good thinking my guy!!
Great video. Did you undo the engine mounts to allow the engine to raise and the cradle to drop? Certainly how I will do it when I have too.
Yes, mount have to be undone to lower cradle
Just did this on stands. No fun, but it works and is less onerous than other options.
How long did it take ya on stands? And did you put anything under them for extra clearance or regular stands all the way up? Also where did you place them?
How hard of a job was it 😂 Im looking at older c6s and don’t want to take it to a shop nor buy crazy equipment lol
Great video thank you so much. the Tensioner pulley is wobbling I think it's going to my balancer definitely have rough engine idle at 2000 revs Don't know if that's related.
Perhaps you could use a longer crank bolt with same pitch and size to (press) balancer part way on to get regular crank bolt started instead of jackhammering the end of the crank?
Good idea
I would not try that. You might strip the threads on end of crank. Buy using the hammer you are at least getting it far enough up on crank to get more threads .
I do wish this was a little more step by step as im on a learning curve but still helps a lot!
Awesome video, but I'm still afraid, I have a 2011 Base Model with a manual trans, Does that affect the procedure in any way? And how long can you live with the wobble? This is my first Corvette. My wife started complaining it was chirping and chattering about 100 miles ago, and I just found the wobble. The car has 44K miles on it. Thanks for taking the time to answer questions
I would definitely change it sooner than later especially if you're hearing the chirping.
Procedure is the same.
What about the steering column? U didnt remove the bolt? Seems like mine has tension and scared to drop it all the way
Hi sir help…
The belt doesn’t move what should I do 😢?
What is the part number, brand of Harmonic Balancer that you used?
I'll have to look back at my summit racing order, and It was a GM balnecer. They are updated now.
Summit has their own balancer, a pretty stout one. Use it with an ARP balancer bolt.
So you lower the cradle by a few inches, all four bolts? That way the rack lowers out of the way? Noticed you also put a jack on the rear transaxle
Yes loosen the rear cradle bolts, remove front cradle bolts all the way. Only put screw jack in the back to help support the car.
There are a lot of unanswered questions here
1 drop cradle fine but don’t you have to unbolt the front engine mount to seperate it from the cradle???
Is the rack still connected to the column?
Why a stand under the diff in vidio?
Yes 2 engine mount nuts are remove to push the engine up, and lower cradle down. Support stand on diff to mitigate car falling off lift. Rack stayed connected.
Great video Tanks from Norway Question Taylor is it ok to hold the craydel whit only the to back bolts??????
If you let the weight of the cradle down gently I would say it's OK.
Can confirm this is how I do. On jack stands. You can pry the subframe down and place sockets as holders and lift the engine with the intake manifold off. Impact gun on the crank bolt. Easy least.
Any other tips, doing mine tomorrow on the ground in the garage??
great video man, im gonna do this job on a couple of months, but i was wondering if you suggest to do or not the pin thing on the harmonic balancer ? theres a summit pin kit ready to use with the drill
If you're not supercharging it at any point In the future, pinning the crank is not necessary. Just use a new bolt and lots of ugga duggas!
Pinning the crankshaft has nothing to do with preventing failure of the balancer, so don't do it because you think you've found the key to fixing the issue permanently. Thus, like Taylor said: if you're not supercharging in the future don't bother.
Did you have to disconnect any brake lines or have to disconnect the steering rod bolt?? I wouldn't want to worry about bending any lines or messing up the steering clock spring. Thank you for any information you could give me.
I didn't have to disconnect brake lines. I honestly can't remember what I did with steering. I think it slid out enough for the k member to drop.
Just re watched the video. If you move the motor up, and let the k member hang on the back studs you don't have to disconnect any steering or brake lines.
@@TaylorParks87 Thank you very much for responding back, I'm getting ready to do this and I just wanted to make sure I didn't screw up anything! Thanks again!
Nobody brings these up on tdc?? What about the timing marks on the SFI DAMNERS?
Unless you're doing a cam swap at the same time then no need to worry about timing...
Did you torque the bolt with your impact wrench and do you think that's tight enough did you use a torque wrench
Hey man. Did you consider dropping subframe just a little bit and wedging it and then lifting the engine a bit? Magnuson recommends that to pin to the crank but not sure if I'll have enough room to get the pulley off (if I choose to replace)
I don't think you will have enough room that way.
Why didn't you do the panda harmonic balancer to the crank solution for keeping the crank and harmonic balancer slippage?
Not necessary for anything n/a. Pinning the crank is for supercharged applications
How did you hold the flexplate to loosen the balancer bolt?
Impact got it off, no need to hold anything
Did you torque the bolt with your impact wrench and do you think that's tight enough did you use a torque wrench and do you think you need Loctite cause I just did mine and I used a battery operated 20 V torque wrench which says it torques 355 I'm just hoping it's tight enough
The key is using a new gm bolt. They have locktite on them. Never had a problem with a bunch of ugadagas from the Milwaukee 1/2 impact with bolt coming loose.
Great video! Have you used the pin on the balancer? Thanks
I have in supercharged application, bot necessary here unless you just want to.
Thanks!
No recommended torque ?
Do the 2005 ls2 corvettes have bad harmonic balancers too?
Yes they do
😊 did you use your air ratchet to torque the harmonic balancer bolt? Thank you in advance 👍
No I used my Milwaukee impact to run her on home
Do you know if this will work the same on the LS3 C6?
Yes same process will work.
Did you have to remove the starter and prevent the flywheel from rotating?
I did not remove starter
You didnt show how u removed the fan lol im currently trying ur way. I have a BIG leak out the crank seal. Friend showed me a video of my car throwing smoke under while driving. It also throws alot of oil if i punch it
2 bolts up top and pull it out top.
Well can I use your lift. Because on jack stands it’ll take me about 6 hours….
Honestly wouldn't take much longer on Jack stands, but yeah man come use it.
Did you disconnect the steering column, any rack lines, brake lines? What about the anti lock mounted on cradle and lines on it? Did the back cradle bolts bend or mess up threads with all the cradle weight? Did you leave sway bar connected to end links?
Did not have to disconnect any of that stuff. Did remove bolts to the abs module, Did not bend the back bolts or mess up any threads.
And sway bar was left connected at end links.
Did you end up just disconnecting the rack and pinion to lower it?
No it stayed connected
Did u removed the intermediate shaft between the rack and wheel? How does it not foul when lowering the rack. Sorry doing this soon so wanna make sure im not gonna destroy my steering 😅@TaylorParks87
@@sunjaysharma8957 shaft stayed connected to rack
I have a 2005 c6 automatic convertible, how much would the labor cost to do the same job you just did ? Thanks in advance ...Jim C. -- PS: about how many miles do you have to have on these Corvettes as long as you do not race them for changing out the HB .....
I see shops charging 1200 to 2500 parts and labor to do the job. This car had 79k on it, but I see the wobble start in all different milages.
im doing mine very soon just wondering with doing it this way and the rack not being removed will it not need an alignment ? or would it still need one
As long as you put the shims on the upper a arms in the same place you should be just fine.
I just bought my first Corvette C6. And I can see now most of the work that needs to be done on this car. I’m gonna need a lift. Or I guess I’ll be paying someone.
Lots of people have done this job on Jack stands, but a lift does make life a bit easier.
I’m in Dfw how much would you charge for this job for customers
Around $1500 parts and labor.
What ft lb torque did you get HB bolt to and how did you keep motor from turning while you achieved this?
New bolt and ran it on with the 1/2 in impact. Never had issues that way.
Wanted to add. I had to use a 1/2 air hose to get the balancer bolt loose. My 1/2 snap on air impact with a 3/8 hose wouldnt pop it loose
You need to get yourself a newer electric 1/2” drive impact. I got the Hercules one from harbor freight with 1500ftlbs of breakaway torque and it gets the job done without even trying
How long does a new balancer last? Thanks for the video, I guess I'll take my c6 to a reputable shop. Tkx
I believe the new ones are a different material and are not susceptible to the previous issues.
They should last as long as the old ones.
I’ve always heard around 50k or you can spend $500 and get an ati fluid damper for the Vette which should last the life of the car. They use a completely different design with sealed o rings separating an inner shell from an outter shell.
Would there be enough access to get the oil pan out doing it this way?
Yes
Yes but... you will need to support the engine from above because here he supported the engine by the oil pan. Can't use it for support if you remove it! If you use a lift you'll need an engine support. If you're using jack stands you can get away with an engine picker, chainfall on an overhead beam, or some other creative means. Saw a guy use a forklift and straps...
Great video brother
Thanks!!
I seen on another comment you said you loosened the rear cradle bolts? Is that something that has to be done and why?
Yes in order for the k member to come down in the front the rear ones are loosened
When you refer to the rear cradle bolts, do you mean the rear front subframe bolts or did you need to lower the rear cradle as well? @@TaylorParks87
@@sunjaysharma8957 rear front sub frame bolts
Do you have a shop in Ft Worth? If so, what’s the name of the shop?
It's south of FT Worth. Taylor's Automotive
Is that shop still available I’m in Arlington,Tx and I need this done??
@@TaylorParks87hi man what is your address i live in fort worth
If the car is cammed, does it put mor stress on the harmonic balancer ? Do you have to change it more often in this case ?
This car was stock, and no on more stress if it was cammed. The factory harmonic balancer on these cars had a defect and that's why they wear out and need changing.
does this also work on the c5?
Yes c5 is pretty much same.
Did you disconnect the rack at all at the steering shaft
I honestly can't remember, I don't think I had to cause it has a slip joint.
@@TaylorParks87 thanks
By the way, for the ppl who come to read the comments. Its 6 bolts, not 4 on the front cradle lol i was confused why mine didnt lower like his.
Incorrect, there are only 4 studs and nuts that hold up the k member. There are 2 other nuts for motor mounts that you need to remove in order to drop k member.
I take it that you also had to remove the 3 bolts that hold the ABS unit to the cradle.
Yes 3 bolt came out and abs module stayed up out of the way
I'll have to remember the air hammer trick on the balancer with the old shortened bolt.
Yup, I believe it's the best way
That would concern me hammering on the thrust bearing.@@TaylorParks87
Heads up disconnect the steering shaft, I followed the video step by step ended up pulling the steering shaft out of the steering column causing the steering angle sensor to pull out almost fucked up a $4,000.00 steering column
So this would save some time on a cam swap as well 🤔
Absolutely!!
Great video!!!! ☺
Hi Taylor! Thanks so much for posting this, very helpful. Are you located anywhere near Mooresville NC (NASCAR Town)? Would like to hire you to do my balancer. Don’t have time or tools.😔😃👍
You're welcome, unfortunately I'm in Texas.
@@TaylorParks87Where are you located in Texas?
@@GsStyleModsAndSpecs ft worth area
@TaylorParks87 I may have to drive out there to you. I'm in Houston.
Thank you for this video, huge help
You're welcome, glad to help
Nice workshop/garage !
Thanks!!
Do these cause knocking noise
How much would you charge me to do mine ?
Are you located in North Texas?
@@TaylorParks87 nah, San Diego,Ca
Did you pin the HB?
I did not, no need on a n/a car
Can’t you just loosen engine mounts and Jack the engine up with a pole Jack instead ??
❤❤❤❤ I love it 💯
Thanks!!
gud job 💯💯👏 boss man 👏
Thanks!!!
@TaylorParks87 I c there still some gud repairs guys left
I need a mechanic like you near me
Do you think there's enough clearance to do this on jack stands?
Yes, few people in the comments have done it on Jack stands
Now the car needs an alignment & engine thrust bearing…. Good job fam 🤌🏽😅
Wrong! Lol
@@TaylorParks87 what did you do about the steering shaft, did you have to disconnect it ?
You find this is wobbly enough? Looks normal to me
great video, thanks
You're welcome
where are you located? can you do mine haha
Don’t bang on the crank! You can break the timing sensor!
Awesome video!!
I think mine is also going bad...☹
Great video
Thanks!!
Very impressive
Yea....where you at...I'll be right over!😂
did you remove the motor mount nuts?
Yes I did, one nut for each mount from bottom of k member
Anyone have any success on a c5? I’m doing this within a week and want to know if you can do this on a c5
C5 should be exactly the same process.
@@TaylorParks87 perfect thank you for the informational video I was able to accomplish this method on jackstands on a c5!
Not too shabby
Anyone in South Florida that did this and wants a job to do.
Thanks Man
2:24
God send video
Thanks!!
They offer a kit to pin the harmonic balancer cost is under or was under $100.
Those are pressed on and need to be pinned or it will happen again
For non supercharged applications pining the crank is not necessary. This is an issue with the balancers internal rubber degradation from the factory.
That's bullshit. The harmonic balancer is a multi-piece unit that uses a type of butyl/rubber to keep the pieces together. As time passes by, that piece slowly starts to fail and that's why you get this wobble.
Pinning the crankshaft will not fix that, and anyone that tells you otherwise is a clueless idiot that shouldn't be working on your car.
That's using your noodle!!
I must be blind because I don’t see the wobble in the old one.
Old one wasn't as bad as they can get but definitely had the wobble