Thank you. Very helpful. The first video of someone keeping the old flange. This saved me a lot of money. I almost gave in and let roto router come out to cut my old cast iron flange. But thanks to this o can keep it and do the floor myself thanks again.
You can't imagine the number of videos I had to watch until I FINALLY got yours!! You explained this so perfectly and it is exactly what I needed to understand how to remodel my bathroom floors. You saved me so much money. Thank you!!!!!
@@Eastbaypisces not knowing exactly you're circumstances, I will say yes although 2x4 blocking is usually sufficient for support. Alot of people that aren't sure typically will over engineer which is perfectly fine also
I’ve been searching for days trying to figure out how to replace the subfloor in my daughter’s 100 year old bathroom that has 15/16 plank. I couldn’t find any other reference to that size, your video showed me exactly what I need to do. Thank you!!
I just finished doing the same thing we had to remove the rusted cast iron flange approx 14" to the stack 3" non hub with boot & PVC. I was debating what corrosive free screws to use the tapcons are for concrete. The 2" brass screws were hard to screws in only had flat head slot and the stainless steel screws were for sheet metal so I used 2" exterior Phillips screws.🤔
For that old wood you removed at the start do you worry about disturbing all those old layers with the dust and asbestos? Simple respirator enough to cut through all that? Did you use a reciprocating saw or circular?
I have a repair in our basement and found that the entire floor is rotted out. Fortunately, below all that is the cement floor. So here's my question, which is due to watching several videos and of course, everyone has their own opinion on whether the flange top is level with the floor or slightly above. As I've never done a full replacement of a flange and floor, which is it? Flange level with top layer (meaning, the final tiles) or slightly above, like 1/8" or something??? Ideas? Fortunately, it looks like it's all PVC, not cast iron or metal of any kind.
Flush or slightly above is ideal, slightly below will work also. There's a few products to make a flange too low work. The flange sitting on top of finished floor height will be fine also. Anything higher than finished floor will present some issues
Fantastic job! You left out nothing and it was truly "to the point". May I add, you may prefer plywood vs oriented strand board (OSB) in the long run. Moisture is its mortal enemy. If it sweats, it can cause capillary action to wick it under the toilet if the bowl isn't sealed where it meets your flooring.
@@GetToThePointplz123 Plywood will take water for a mighty long time before it actually fails. OSB fails immediately leaving no chance to find the problem before its swollen/ruined.
If it is not in direct contact with soil or concrete you can use white pine or yellow pine which is standard framing lumber available anywhere, doesn't need to be pressure treated
fixing our toilet, new construction, they dont care. poor design, no real support under the toilet. 24' on center joists, toilet obviously moved up and down, after 12 years sprung a leak. That was 3 years ago, just discovered it. you can imagine the sight. anyway going to have to cut way more floor than I wanted, but need to scab in support.
Finally, a video that explains installing a subfloor without replacing the toilet flange.
Thank you. Very helpful. The first video of someone keeping the old flange. This saved me a lot of money. I almost gave in and let roto router come out to cut my old cast iron flange. But thanks to this o can keep it and do the floor myself thanks again.
You sir, have explained this so well without wasting time on shenanigans and tomfoolery and I 100% appreciate it! Thank you!!!!
You can't imagine the number of videos I had to watch until I FINALLY got yours!! You explained this so perfectly and it is exactly what I needed to understand how to remodel my bathroom floors. You saved me so much money. Thank you!!!!!
Good luck
@@GetToThePointplz123 so i should put the blocking across like that too? im using 2x8s because previous floor was 2x8s
@@Eastbaypisces not knowing exactly you're circumstances, I will say yes although 2x4 blocking is usually sufficient for support. Alot of people that aren't sure typically will over engineer which is perfectly fine also
Straight to the point. No annoying music of silly jokes. You nailed it. Thank you!
I’ve been searching for days trying to figure out how to replace the subfloor in my daughter’s 100 year old bathroom that has 15/16 plank. I couldn’t find any other reference to that size, your video showed me exactly what I need to do. Thank you!!
Thx. Very helpful. I'm redoing my floor and toilet. I haven't done anything like this in 25 years. I'm pretty rusty. This is extremely helpful
You did a great job. You got right to the point and kept at it. Thank you so much for a great video.
This is exactly the information I have been needing to find. Thank you very much for your amazing help.
Cool👍
I just finished doing the same thing we had to remove the rusted cast iron flange approx 14" to the stack 3" non hub with boot & PVC.
I was debating what corrosive free screws to use the tapcons are for concrete. The 2" brass screws were hard to screws in only had flat head slot and the stainless steel screws were for sheet metal so I used 2" exterior Phillips screws.🤔
You explains this so well you made it look easy
For that old wood you removed at the start do you worry about disturbing all those old layers with the dust and asbestos? Simple respirator enough to cut through all that? Did you use a reciprocating saw or circular?
Circular saw and jigsaw...dust mask or respirator works also
I have a repair in our basement and found that the entire floor is rotted out. Fortunately, below all that is the cement floor.
So here's my question, which is due to watching several videos and of course, everyone has their own opinion on whether the flange top is level with the floor or slightly above.
As I've never done a full replacement of a flange and floor, which is it?
Flange level with top layer (meaning, the final tiles) or slightly above, like 1/8" or something???
Ideas?
Fortunately, it looks like it's all PVC, not cast iron or metal of any kind.
Flush or slightly above is ideal, slightly below will work also. There's a few products to make a flange too low work. The flange sitting on top of finished floor height will be fine also. Anything higher than finished floor will present some issues
@@GetToThePointplz123 Thanks. It sounds like I don't have to be "tooooo" exact.
That's good, considering the mess I've encountered... sigh.
Good, solid video for working around flange.
Nice workmanship and a job “well done “. See, I can also give a positive comment and you deserve it!! 👌
Thnx brother stay safe
Just what I needed to know. Thank you.
Thanks… What size is the “blocking” lumber? Are those 2x6?
I used 2x4 here, if you have a larger span you could use 2x6
Thank you for your response. I’m heading to Lowe’s tomorrow for lumber and the 3/4 in plywood I need!
Whats the typical cost of this? Thanks
Guessing $200 DIY or $6-800 to hire someone
Very helpful as we have two layers of subfloor here...
Ya every scenario is different, sometimes 1 maybe 2..I've seen 3 so you gotta roll with it
Really helpful video! Ty. This is going to make our repair run much smoother.
Fantastic job! You left out nothing and it was truly "to the point". May I add, you may prefer plywood vs oriented strand board (OSB) in the long run. Moisture is its mortal enemy. If it sweats, it can cause capillary action to wick it under the toilet if the bowl isn't sealed where it meets your flooring.
Agreed ..unfortunately plywood doesn't hold up to water also
@@GetToThePointplz123 Plywood will take water for a mighty long time before it actually fails. OSB fails immediately leaving no chance to find the problem before its swollen/ruined.
very helpful. Also would not use OSB in wet areas
YOUR VIDEO IS ONE-OF-A-KIND. JUST WHAT I NEEDED😮 TYVM BOSS
Awesome
This was great thank you! I did have a question what if the flooring sets higher than the flange? How do I make sure there will not be a leak?
If its not to low they make flange extensions
You are the man best way to explain it I could see it in my head what I needed to do, butt needed re ensured. Thanks!
Excellent video! Working on this currently
Good video, but, gloves buddy. Gloves😭😂
I would never use particle board for these applications.
It's osb not particle board
Excellent video! Thanks for your help man!
Want to do this at my house but don't know much about lumber. What type of lumber do you use for the blocking pieces? 2x4 or 2x6? Pressure treated?
If it is not in direct contact with soil or concrete you can use white pine or yellow pine which is standard framing lumber available anywhere, doesn't need to be pressure treated
Great Video professional job there 👏
Very informative! Is this a job for a plumber?
Most plumbers won't do carpentry, better look for a bath remodeler
@@GetToThePointplz123 Thank you!! Very helpful to look for the right skill to do the work.
Is the toilet flange sup to be flush to the floor ????
Flush with finished floor or slightly above is ideal, if it's a little low there are ways to address that
@@GetToThePointplz123 ok thanks
Great video. I have this to do so I appreciate your help.
Wat size wood did you use for the sub flooring?
Subfloor here was 3/4
@@GetToThePointplz123 ok thanks
Nice work on this video.
Very clever ideas...
Nice work! Gave me some ideas.
How much will a plumber charge ?
Depends on plumber, most won't repair wood parts
Tap cons corrosion resistant screws.
Great Video! Thank you!
To do a 3x5ft area like this video what eould you expect to pay if you hired someone to do it?
Lots of variables, hard to say..get 3 or more estimates
calm cool collective video! no over-the-top, THIS IS HOW YOU DO IT lol then Fades out piece of cake you can do it holler if you need me 😋
Thanks that was very helpful
Thanks ❤
Thanks this was great and simple.
Very helpful!!!!!! Thank u!!!
👍awesome
Great job. Thanks for this video. Looks like you're working in some dilapidated crack house
🤣it's not as bad as it looks
How much will it cost if I hired someone to do this for me
Hard to say, too many variables
Thank you!
Very helpful
Saround the toilet, i uae treated plywood not OSB.
Your welcome!
Best video!
fixing our toilet, new construction, they dont care. poor design, no real support under the toilet. 24' on center joists, toilet obviously moved up and down, after 12 years sprung a leak. That was 3 years ago, just discovered it. you can imagine the sight. anyway going to have to cut way more floor than I wanted, but need to scab in support.
Shark bite? Why not do a propress or crimp pex?
What kind of saw do you use for the circle cuts?
Jigsaw