Will this help if the floor is bowing in toward the middle, bouncy coming away a bit from the walls? Or does this mean I need to replace all the studs underneath the floor? I'm trying to do it the easiest and the cheapest way. Thank you so much!
how can someone be so pleasant to watch, fun, genuine, very informative and straight to the point like you? I lost my dad in a very young age and he didn't had the chance to teach me more "handyman" things. You and your channel has helped me a lot in terms of knowledge. Thank you very much
Having owned a 40-year-old mobile home I completely empathize with your frustration. A modern manufactured home is built like a house, more or less, but 40 years ago they built them like a cab-over camper.
Thank you! I’m on a budget. An old blind lady with sad strength. I’ve been replacing rotten wood under my fridge for months. Every step takes me forever. The rest of the floor does have weak spots. My joists are 24” on center. I just want the floor to last as long as me. Putting plywood on top seemed ok to me but I’ve been getting advice against it. Now I’m feeling more comfortable. Again, thank you very much!
Subfloor is being removed from my home, unfortunately it had to be done. Urine stained and water warped MDF boards had to go. It's like 70% done then we have to address a couple spots where the original subfloor is water damaged and rotted. Just the smell of that subfloor as it was pulled up reassured me that we made the correct call.
I have been renovating my 1958 home since 2013, when I bought it. Actually thouroughly cleaned. removed, repaired and re-installed the 1958 Tappan "Automatic Pilot Ignition" built-in oven ($330.00 for the igniter and only 2 in the world) and love it. Currently installiing Laminate over real wood parkay and linoleum. Nothing square. Nothing level. Amazing that 1958 carpenter's cut, sanded, glued and then finished real individual pieces of small planks to get that parkay look. I feel your pain!
I empathize with the frustration of handing the next person a piece of junk covered with something pretty. Wasteful, dishonest and SAD! However, I find it incredibly satisfying to bring everything up to code, solid and done right!! That’s where your incredible videos come in. Can’t thank you enough!! 😊
Wish I woulda seen this a month ago...had the exact same situation, and I had an idea to do use this method, but I couldn't find any online resources on people who tried it! Ended up cutting out and replacing most of the subfloor. Joists all over the place, never on 16" center. Took so much time and many instances of screwing into nothing. Well, now I know. Thanks!
much respect sir, been a floor guy for 37 yrs...saved up and bought a couple rentals for retirement and been watching you for a few yrs now...also been doing part-time mobilhome work and it's crazy what you have to figure out how they did things...hahaha...hope you enjoy your time here, you're one of the good guy's...how do you say it...cheers friend.
I wish you could come and do my house lol. My house was a flip a few years ago before I bought it so the flooring isn't that old and I have soft spots in different areas. Unfortunately I learned after I bought it that the flippers didn't do a good job at all, they just covered things up. Anyway even though i'm not handy person I love watching your videos. I learn a lot!
im 99% sure the previous owner did the same 'patch the bad spot put a new floor on top' strategy in our house, which is why i clicked on this video in the first place. i know next year im gonna need to start budgeting to fix it. weve only been here a year and a half and are starting to fall into soft spots, to the point where i toss random scraps of plywood over top of them and a thin rug over that, just to tide us over lol. this video is super helpful to give me an idea what im going to be getting into when i start this project, thanks for making it!
I bought a manufactured home in 2019 and updated it watching your videos. I wish this series was out then. You are not kidding when you say you run into new challenges every day. Thanks to your videos I made a 50% profit on the home.
I literally just finished doing the exact same thing last week. What small world! The only thing I did was add subfloor adhesive. It's a 1910 farmhouse with original TG fir floors, and they were getting springy.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYif the joists are rough cut oak, set 16 inch OC, would it just be better to just pull off the t & g, and install 1 in; or just use 5/8ths over the top of the t &g?
Another wonderful lesson. Thank you Professor Jeff. I’m moving along slowly but working smart. I DONT THINK YOU SAID ANYTHING WEIRD. YOURE A GOOD SOUL ❤.
I stacked subfloor in my bathroom to get a better transition between the original 3/4 oak outside the bathroom to the vinyl plank flooring inside. Along with screws i also used three construction adhesive you can get in foam gun cans. It's for subfloors, comes out like a foam but sticks tenaciously.
You scab up basically connect another 2x6 screwed to the old one a little higher up but still have to measure to make sure when you lay the floor on the attached joist it lays flat where the two pieces of flooring meet old and new
Interesting to watch. How does the humidity get handled now, just assume the plywood is good enough or would there be a best preactice involving some kind of vapour barrier or sealant?
Thanks for your Saturday evening show,it helps me relax watching you teach. I hope you don't have a bad joist /problem with the soft floor by the kitchen. I'm sure we will see eventually 😁. 🥶🖤🔔👍🏻
Make SURE you know where your water lines go before doing this. Laminating the subfloor in this way was how I found out the fire suppression lines in my condo were mounted directly to the underside of the existing subfloor. That made for an exciting night - especially because no one in my condo knew how to turn off the fire supression system, so water poured into my condo for 3 hours before we found the right person. After spending a solid week repairing water damage in the floor below (just my garage, thankfully, and not a neighbor) I marked out the fire suppression system on the old subfloor, and made darn sure to stay 12" away from the lines when putting in the new screws
I did this exact thing in my studio space above my detached 2-car garage. There was only 1/2" subfloor over 24"-on-center joists (!!!). Needless to say, it was a bit springy. The extra 5/8" made it feel rock solid, and it's much quieter to walk on. Will be installing a vinyl plank floor over it soon, with help from Jeff's videos 👍
I thought i would have to do the same in the house we just bought. Two first floor rooms had floors that creaked with each footstep. I was very close to overlaying new sheet wood, but decided instead to put roof felt over the construction insulation under the existing floating chipboard floor, and then another layer between the chip and the insulation that had been used to raise the floor level. After relaying the laminate floor it is silent. But handling that sheet flooring is harder work than you make it look!
Question: I was waiting for you to explain how you were going to address the vapor and insulation issue causing condensation between the subfloor and flooring but you never did. Did you put a vapor barrier and insulation under the mobile home or fix holes in the existing vapor barrier and insulation? I have the same problem but worse. The plastic belly wrap was missing, insulation hanging, and my floors were bleeding on the Summer between the vinyl tiles because of condensation coming through the plywood subfloor and getting trapped under the vinyl tiles.
Thanks for this demo, just what i needed. Question-- I'm repairing large, very soft spots in the bathroom. Will this method make a floor that's strong and sturdy enough to support a bathtub full of water? If your answer is yes, I'm going for it. Thank you!
Plywood is crappy these days and often pretty bowed. I was taught to run a row of fasteners straight down the middle each direction forming a cross. Next, working from the center outwards, nail each quadrant. This forces the bow down and outward. You didn't, but I can't count the times I've seen people place the sheets, then nail all the seams first. 🫣 I've installed flooring since the mid seventies, learning from my grandfather. It's refreshing to watch your videos explaining the why's and how's to those that watch. Some new to the trades, but I'll bet many are diyers.
Hey Jeff, thank you for all you do for us average Joe's! I wanted to let you know there's some sort of high pitched tone coming off your mic through certain points of the video that I noticed. It comes and goes but when it's there it's tough to ignore. Hope there's an easy fix for it!
Starting at 8:30, those lousy cable wires belong behind sheetrock. I would use a drill and jig saw to cut out a piece of the original subfloor (if it's not accessible from a crawlspace), and wire the lines though the walls by using a sheetrock knife or roto-tool to cut a line even one foot above the floor, along the wall, to where they want it coming out. It would delay the project by a day, but the alternative, of having to live with that crap forever, sticking out of the ground, always makes it worth it.🙂
Lol practically inches away from Canada's butt. Makes sense. 😅 Thanks for the find though. Not sure why they don't sell subfloor screws in more places through the US. Certainly can't find them down here in Las Vegas or Phoenix.
I looooove your videos. I learned so much. I am trying to decide if I should use self leveling compound option OR using plywood over existing subfloor. I have bad subfloors (particle board) some areas are squeaky, soft, and not leveled for vinyl or engineered wood. What should I do? Self leveling option or new plywood over existing bad subfloor?
Perfect timing! My mobile home flooring is swollen from various leaks and laminate floor was layed on top. Joints are popping. This is a 1975 single wide in Arizona 55+ park. I bought it right, but must be realistic. Surrounded by newer homes. I was just about to tear out bathroom subfloor. Plumbing is all replaced and roof is fixed, so cautiously optomistic. A little concerned about covering the soggy stuff, but think it should dry out with this 115 heat. Your thoughts?
As a fellow carpenter desert rat that works in Phoenix but lives in Las Vegas, you should be good. Can always take things a notch further and get yourself a gallon of oil based zissner primer that blocks mold and mildew. Paint your subfloor with it, especially in bathrooms! Your future self will thank you should you ever have any leaks. It's a very small and cheap insurance policy to CYA. I did this in my house that I remodeled recently as well. I'm a commercial carpenter by trade and while many things apply, it's still a vastly different world in other regards. Haha I will say that hanging board on perfectly straight metal studs with self tapppers is way better than residential... minus code that requires 2.5x more screws.
What fastener would be recommended for attaching 3/8" underlayment to subfloor? It's in a bathroom receiving tile, so screws are going to screw over the next person who needs to remove it.
This is JUST what I needed! If you weren't replacing the door trim would you just undercut it to make room to slide new subflooring underneath? Also curious about exterior doors etc. You would need to replace the threshold aswell? Thanks 🙏
So you add the new plywood on top for a few inches out into that hallway and then are you putting a transition to a different floor or did you end up putting that plywood All through the rest of the house so that it's on the same level?
I've been wanting to renovate my Mobile for a long time. SO glad to see this video series. What are you going to do about the electrical box. I assume that is ancient as well.
I purchased a manufactured home and I had to pull all the flooring up. I though the subfloor was soft, but found that there was way too much padding under the vinyl floor which was making it feel like I was walking on a mattress. The 3/4in particleboard is solid with no soft spots. Whoever put the flooring in decided to use self leveler on the particleboard and it is not level. I was told the best fix is to put 3/8in plywood over the particleboard and just staple it with no regard for where the joists are and where the “self leveler” is. It looks like you would recommend that I use screws and screw it to the joist?
I knew when I moved into this old house the remodel before i bought it was maybe a cover up in some places. The first obvious on was the back part of the house, see a crack come across the ceiling as I was putting more things in that room up stairs. So with in a month or so of moving in I decided to check this out as much as i could without opening any thing up. What I realized was that the second floor on that part had only three cross beams besides the outer frame. Leaving two spans of 4 feet, and one at about 3 and the other around 2.5 feet. So I built a support frame from about 1/2 of the room on the first floor to add support for that center beam, where that crack in the ceiling showed up. Well now about 12 year later I have dips in my first floor at those 4 foot spans, and the one side is concerning. I don't want to take up the whole floor, for the huge reason is the cost and that fact there is a large kitchen counter and sink on the one side and it covers those spans very well, so I don't want to move it all out. the floor feel like they might have even used Masonite and not plywood or the plywood is rotting or just weak from the long span and a kitchen table one it for many years. This part of the house is basically built on the ground and I have no way under it all. There is a small opening on the one larger better 4 foot area, at my outside basement entrance and I put my cell phone on a stick and slid it under and as best I can tell that area is not rotted. So I can guess it was just to much weight at 4 foot span. So my plan is to open part of it up to look under and then add 3 to 5 cross supports to the three ones that are there and maybe, get some added support to the ground. Then put most of the flooring back if it is not rotted and then put either a layer of 3/4 PVC sheet on top or 3/4 plywood.. The other fun part is the back door is level with the current floor and opens in, however it will need to be fixed as well since its' bottom was partly bad and I did a makeshift protection and mouse stopper back then, so having to raise that door bottom was going to have to be done anyhow. So I wonder if I go with the PVC sheet should I run it outside to cover the whole base of the walkway, and then put a regular door seal on top of that or just stop at the door with the floor?
"Somebody made an economic decision..." Yes, and I bought that house (regular house, not a trailer home) and now have to move ALL of my stuff back out so I can fix all of the floors. The seller (and the realtor) did me dirty. I was an out-of-state buyer and couldn't walk the floors before the purchase. It seems that no one else (realtor, inspector, appraiser) did either. I am now paying the price. I really appreciate this channel because I have a ton of work to do.
I walked my home and they said...oh it must be the padding....saod it was fixed and it wasnt.. im now in it becaise i already sold my home...im thinking about showing this to the contractor at the 1 momth review...but to think i have to move everything out...i want compensation on that one. Yeah...i agree...support gets in the way of seeing$ . Thanks for the warning im definetely following up on this asap
@@ceceliabeck8967 I did....that reminds me...i need to call them....they do say that they do not do structural...but then what good are they i thought...most do not do structural overall ..i guess i have to pay a separate fee for a contractor....smh
I read elsewhere and was informed by a guy in the flooring dept at Lowe's not to attach the upper layer of plywood to the joists? Only the original subfloor should be on the joists. The upper layer is just attached to the subfloor with 1 and 1/4 screws (can use construction or sheetrock screws)? I have 3/4 sub floor and 3/8 plywood on top of that? Will that work?
Jeff, just bought a fixer upper and found 5/8 particle board underlayment under the carpet. It’s heavily stained with dog urine, some of which is still wet. There’s 1/2 ply under that which is in good shape. Thinking I need to pull the particle board and replace with 5/8 OSB to make sure I get rid of the odor. Thoughts?
You can check a carpenter square by using a known straight like on a sheet of plywood and marking a line, then flip the square over and mark another line as close as you can to the first one, if it's a little off you can take a center punch and hit either the inside or outside corner depending on which way it's off. ;-)
Lolol. The packaging is more dangerous than..... I've seen people get frustrated with trying to slice that hard plastic, then try to rip it opened, and cut themselves. Totally understood that comment.
Future cable contractor likely won't use the old cable, and won't take time to remove and use existing holes, likely just drill into living room/office and run new cable to whatever rooms they want (or just to router for wifi nowadays). Up to you to seal all the holes nowadays, not like decades ago when they used grommets.
Ok question at 1:47 you show how from the 4 foot line to the wall has a nice gap. When filling in how do you aim to remedy the gap? I am just about to start work on a 1985 Single Wide in Indiana. My floors have 2 soft spots one in the hall and another in the closet of a bedroom. I am getting quotes currently for the roof to stop leaks they mentioned I may need more bricks.
Hi Jeff! New member here ☺️ Love your videos! I asked a question on an older video and wondering if you respond to comments on those or if I should be commenting on new ones to get an answer? Need help! Many thanks :D
In the beginning of the video where the floor at the by the wall wasn't level and you could put your finger under the ruler how did you raise up that end of the wall I just saw you put a piece of plywood down about 8 inches off the wall but you didn't show how you leveled it off when it dips down on the sub floor
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Which compound? Can you show that? I have this exact problem and was about to put 5/8'' plywood over the voids until i saw this comment.
My grout in my tiled bathroom floor is cracking due to flexing subfloor. Sub floor has concrete panel between tile and subfloor. What’s the best way to fix this? Thank you !
Based on my experience, a subfloor adhesive good be a good option, but a pretty expensive one. It'll give better sound insulation, adhesion, and vibration (from steps, etc) dumpening.
what if you have particle board 1/2" over a subfloor that is squeaky? Romove the partial board first or go over with another layer of solid plywood 1/2" sheets with screws? FYI - the old particle board has 1000s of nails in it as well.
maybe a really weird question but does it help to lay down a second subfloor to prevent noise movement to the lower level? Of course I would also use a Mass Loaded Vinyl layer on top of the second layer subfloor.
Glad I'm not the only one that couldn't seem to find any actual flooring screws! Watched a TON of your videos and I could never find flooring specific screws like you had mentioned before. Also, curious if there was a reason you chose plywood over OSB here, or maybe I missed that somewhere.
OSB's cheaper (well, used to be) because it's just glued together fibers. It's not glued together dust like what he's covering/complaining about, just a step up. Plywood is actual wood layers, laminated together. It has some structure to it. Sure it costs a bit more but will last multiple times longer. Now pressure treated plywood, costs even more, but will outlast other parts. I bet since he's sticking to a budget, he went for plywood. OSB's cool for wall sheathing, but I'd not pick it for something that gets heavy weight sitting on it (furniture), traffic (weight and flex of people walking), etc.
What type of plywood do you use? Is it moisture resistant or do you need that? I found some CDX plywood that I’m thinking of adding to my existing subfloor but don’t know if I should do anything to protect the wood.
I was waiting for this one.🎉 I fixed my floors too finally. I was vary curious what all you had to do. Resizing thoes doors won't be fun. But i guess its a great option. Some of My doors are damaged from cat pee cant save them. It will be interesting finding the right size.
@HomeRenoVisionDIY well thay have almost all these replacement parts at modular home repair stores online, but it's also a rip-off cheap. Just like my windows being 500$ a window if I bought from them. So I ended up resizing my windows. And it only costs 200$ for a similar size. I'll figure it out.
I have t&g planks from 1973, they're in good shape but for the 1 room i tore up and did lvp i put 5 or 6mm underlayment down stapled to it. It was still pretty wavy. What would you recommend for me? Should i use thicker plywood going forward?
If the existing subfloor is already exposed then no harm in throwing in some screws anyway IMO. Maybe not as many needed if you're putting another sheet on top. Just my 2c.
Jeff I have to ask as I have been watching your videos and listening to you, wouldn't it be very expensive on adding the plywood over the top of what already there, especially like in my case in the bathroom the toilet sinks when you sit on it, which means I need to tear it all up and probably have to put in 2x4 or 2x6
Do you keep that 5/8" gap at the tie-in to the hallway? I'm assuming it's within the flooring tolerances but wasn't sure if that was the case or if it'll be addressed when you take a look at the bathroom and determine what you need to do. Thanks!
What to do when the center of the room had a hump in it that was not there before it was moved. There are no piers directly below the hump issue. Same issue in several rooms.
Looks like you used CDX plywood. I'm planning a similar project and have been debating using CDX plywood vs BCX sanded plywood. How smooth does the plywood need to be for LVP underlayment? Is CDX good enough?
Well just maybe the previous repair person didn’t notice the trouble at the time of last repair it has only become noticeable in the weak spot for cpl reasons 1 being all the moister your speaking of went past the plywood that was installed an as ya know it is just being absorbed in the now noticeable problematic area! But idk what they or anyone is thinking! lol I think tho rather than neglect it was probably more of an unintentional act! Just glad u found an noticed the weak spot an now are going to include it in your repair. Gd deal if any other unrepaired parts of the floor at this time in time it also will probably have to be done. Yada dad I best get to it have a grt day.!!
If you're not into all the math on those complex shape challenges, you can make a template out of cereal box cardboard and masking tape. Especially in tight fiddly bathroom situations. I find that easier on my brain.
These floors are made out of press board instead of plywood too. I bought mine in 1997 brand new. I live in MI and redid my kitchen floor due to a couple of leaks. New subfloor plywood floor placed and that crap removed.
Me and my wife are thinking about buying our first home and there are soft spots all over and it was a flip from bad what are the odds they replaced the whole sub floor and didn’t just patch and try and level
To learn more watch my full subfloor series 👉🏼 ruclips.net/p/PL34cQkzKfXWblA83LgEySoYGDzL3HTKYS
Hey which plywood is best for the subfloor?? please give me one line answer, I am from Kitchener Ontario. Type of plywood or OSB???
Will this help if the floor is bowing in toward the middle, bouncy coming away a bit from the walls? Or does this mean I need to replace all the studs underneath the floor? I'm trying to do it the easiest and the cheapest way. Thank you so much!
how can someone be so pleasant to watch, fun, genuine, very informative and straight to the point like you? I lost my dad in a very young age and he didn't had the chance to teach me more "handyman" things. You and your channel has helped me a lot in terms of knowledge. Thank you very much
Cheers Baron, happy to be of help!
I said the same exact thing when I started watching him
I know! He makes me feel like I can do anything!
Which is why you should suggest he take people to work with him and he can MENTOR them in person not just watching videos.
@@atkgrlthat would be cool to watch. Kind of like This Old House
Having owned a 40-year-old mobile home I completely empathize with your frustration. A modern manufactured home is built like a house, more or less, but 40 years ago they built them like a cab-over camper.
Thank you! I’m on a budget. An old blind lady with sad strength. I’ve been replacing rotten wood under my fridge for months. Every step takes me forever. The rest of the floor does have weak spots. My joists are 24” on center. I just want the floor to last as long as me. Putting plywood on top seemed ok to me but I’ve been getting advice against it. Now I’m feeling more comfortable. Again, thank you very much!
definitely recommend the tonge and groove osb. it is stronger than plywood and costs less. Cheers!
Subfloor is being removed from my home, unfortunately it had to be done. Urine stained and water warped MDF boards had to go. It's like 70% done then we have to address a couple spots where the original subfloor is water damaged and rotted. Just the smell of that subfloor as it was pulled up reassured me that we made the correct call.
That’s where I’m at. Definitely not going to slap plywood over stank, rotted subfloor.
I have been renovating my 1958 home since 2013, when I bought it. Actually thouroughly cleaned. removed, repaired and re-installed the 1958 Tappan "Automatic Pilot Ignition" built-in oven ($330.00 for the igniter and only 2 in the world) and love it. Currently installiing Laminate over real wood parkay and linoleum. Nothing square. Nothing level. Amazing that 1958 carpenter's cut, sanded, glued and then finished real individual pieces of small planks to get that parkay look. I feel your pain!
I empathize with the frustration of handing the next person a piece of junk covered with something pretty. Wasteful, dishonest and SAD! However, I find it incredibly satisfying to bring everything up to code, solid and done right!! That’s where your incredible videos come in. Can’t thank you enough!! 😊
Wish I woulda seen this a month ago...had the exact same situation, and I had an idea to do use this method, but I couldn't find any online resources on people who tried it! Ended up cutting out and replacing most of the subfloor. Joists all over the place, never on 16" center. Took so much time and many instances of screwing into nothing. Well, now I know. Thanks!
much respect sir, been a floor guy for 37 yrs...saved up and bought a couple rentals for retirement and been watching you for a few yrs now...also been doing part-time mobilhome work and it's crazy what you have to figure out how they did things...hahaha...hope you enjoy your time here, you're one of the good guy's...how do you say it...cheers friend.
Thanks and Cheers David!
I wish you could come and do my house lol. My house was a flip a few years ago before I bought it so the flooring isn't that old and I have soft spots in different areas. Unfortunately I learned after I bought it that the flippers didn't do a good job at all, they just covered things up. Anyway even though i'm not handy person I love watching your videos. I learn a lot!
im 99% sure the previous owner did the same 'patch the bad spot put a new floor on top' strategy in our house, which is why i clicked on this video in the first place. i know next year im gonna need to start budgeting to fix it. weve only been here a year and a half and are starting to fall into soft spots, to the point where i toss random scraps of plywood over top of them and a thin rug over that, just to tide us over lol. this video is super helpful to give me an idea what im going to be getting into when i start this project, thanks for making it!
You should rip it out and redo it. Only real way to get another 20 or 30 out of it
I bought a manufactured home in 2019 and updated it watching your videos. I wish this series was out then. You are not kidding when you say you run into new challenges every day. Thanks to your videos I made a 50% profit on the home.
I went one step further and glued my replacement subfloor and that puppy is now rock solid
I literally just finished doing the exact same thing last week. What small world! The only thing I did was add subfloor adhesive. It's a 1910 farmhouse with original TG fir floors, and they were getting springy.
well done! old t and g floors eventually break all the tongue and loose their strength
@@HomeRenoVisionDIYif the joists are rough cut oak, set 16 inch OC, would it just be better to just pull off the t & g, and install 1 in; or just use 5/8ths over the top of the t &g?
Another wonderful lesson. Thank you Professor Jeff. I’m moving along slowly but working smart. I DONT THINK YOU SAID ANYTHING WEIRD. YOURE A GOOD SOUL ❤.
I stacked subfloor in my bathroom to get a better transition between the original 3/4 oak outside the bathroom to the vinyl plank flooring inside. Along with screws i also used three construction adhesive you can get in foam gun cans. It's for subfloors, comes out like a foam but sticks tenaciously.
This is great. But how do you transition the new higher flooring to the older existing flooring?
yes i was wondering this
I dont think he does , the whole property gets new subfloor
You scab up basically connect another 2x6 screwed to the old one a little higher up but still have to measure to make sure when you lay the floor on the attached joist it lays flat where the two pieces of flooring meet old and new
Interesting to watch. How does the humidity get handled now, just assume the plywood is good enough or would there be a best preactice involving some kind of vapour barrier or sealant?
Thanks for your Saturday evening show,it helps me relax watching you teach. I hope you don't have a bad joist /problem with the soft floor by the kitchen. I'm sure we will see eventually 😁.
🥶🖤🔔👍🏻
the only bad joist we found was in the bathroom. that repair video is coming soon. Cheers!
Make SURE you know where your water lines go before doing this. Laminating the subfloor in this way was how I found out the fire suppression lines in my condo were mounted directly to the underside of the existing subfloor. That made for an exciting night - especially because no one in my condo knew how to turn off the fire supression system, so water poured into my condo for 3 hours before we found the right person. After spending a solid week repairing water damage in the floor below (just my garage, thankfully, and not a neighbor) I marked out the fire suppression system on the old subfloor, and made darn sure to stay 12" away from the lines when putting in the new screws
ouch!
Did the same with boiler line, in mid winter at zero outside.
I did this exact thing in my studio space above my detached 2-car garage. There was only 1/2" subfloor over 24"-on-center joists (!!!). Needless to say, it was a bit springy. The extra 5/8" made it feel rock solid, and it's much quieter to walk on. Will be installing a vinyl plank floor over it soon, with help from Jeff's videos 👍
A "bit" springy???? You mean like a trampoline right? 😂 I have floors like that in my house too...
I thought i would have to do the same in the house we just bought. Two first floor rooms had floors that creaked with each footstep. I was very close to overlaying new sheet wood, but decided instead to put roof felt over the construction insulation under the existing floating chipboard floor, and then another layer between the chip and the insulation that had been used to raise the floor level. After relaying the laminate floor it is silent. But handling that sheet flooring is harder work than you make it look!
Question: I was waiting for you to explain how you were going to address the vapor and insulation issue causing condensation between the subfloor and flooring but you never did. Did you put a vapor barrier and insulation under the mobile home or fix holes in the existing vapor barrier and insulation? I have the same problem but worse. The plastic belly wrap was missing, insulation hanging, and my floors were bleeding on the Summer between the vinyl tiles because of condensation coming through the plywood subfloor and getting trapped under the vinyl tiles.
Thanks for this demo, just what i needed. Question-- I'm repairing large, very soft spots in the bathroom. Will this method make a floor that's strong and sturdy enough to support a bathtub full of water? If your answer is yes, I'm going for it. Thank you!
A timely video! Installing a subfloor today!
Plywood is crappy these days and often pretty bowed.
I was taught to run a row of fasteners straight down the middle each direction forming a cross. Next, working from the center outwards, nail each quadrant. This forces the bow down and outward.
You didn't, but I can't count the times I've seen people place the sheets, then nail all the seams first.
🫣
I've installed flooring since the mid seventies, learning from my grandfather. It's refreshing to watch your videos explaining the why's and how's to those that watch. Some new to the trades, but I'll bet many are diyers.
The huge knots in that piece of plywood are like nothing I’ve seen before. Absolute crap plywood.
Hey Jeff, thank you for all you do for us average Joe's!
I wanted to let you know there's some sort of high pitched tone coming off your mic through certain points of the video that I noticed. It comes and goes but when it's there it's tough to ignore. Hope there's an easy fix for it!
Given the moisture problem, have folks already asked about the benefits of a vapor barrier before installing new subflooring?
Starting at 8:30, those lousy cable wires belong behind sheetrock. I would use a drill and jig saw to cut out a piece of the original subfloor (if it's not accessible from a crawlspace), and wire the lines though the walls by using a sheetrock knife or roto-tool to cut a line even one foot above the floor, along the wall, to where they want it coming out. It would delay the project by a day, but the alternative, of having to live with that crap forever, sticking out of the ground, always makes it worth it.🙂
I recently found subfloor screws at a Menards in Wisconsin
Lol practically inches away from Canada's butt. Makes sense. 😅 Thanks for the find though. Not sure why they don't sell subfloor screws in more places through the US. Certainly can't find them down here in Las Vegas or Phoenix.
I looooove your videos. I learned so much. I am trying to decide if I should use self leveling compound option OR using plywood over existing subfloor. I have bad subfloors (particle board) some areas are squeaky, soft, and not leveled for vinyl or engineered wood. What should I do? Self leveling option or new plywood over existing bad subfloor?
Perfect timing! My mobile home flooring is swollen from various leaks and laminate floor was layed on top. Joints are popping. This is a 1975 single wide in Arizona 55+ park. I bought it right, but must be realistic. Surrounded by newer homes. I was just about to tear out bathroom subfloor. Plumbing is all replaced and roof is fixed, so cautiously optomistic. A little concerned about covering the soggy stuff, but think it should dry out with this 115 heat. Your thoughts?
the softness does not affect the strength of compression. your dry environment will keep it from going to mold. remember it is soft not wet. Cheers!
As a fellow carpenter desert rat that works in Phoenix but lives in Las Vegas, you should be good. Can always take things a notch further and get yourself a gallon of oil based zissner primer that blocks mold and mildew. Paint your subfloor with it, especially in bathrooms! Your future self will thank you should you ever have any leaks. It's a very small and cheap insurance policy to CYA. I did this in my house that I remodeled recently as well. I'm a commercial carpenter by trade and while many things apply, it's still a vastly different world in other regards. Haha I will say that hanging board on perfectly straight metal studs with self tapppers is way better than residential... minus code that requires 2.5x more screws.
What fastener would be recommended for attaching 3/8" underlayment to subfloor? It's in a bathroom receiving tile, so screws are going to screw over the next person who needs to remove it.
This is JUST what I needed! If you weren't replacing the door trim would you just undercut it to make room to slide new subflooring underneath? Also curious about exterior doors etc. You would need to replace the threshold aswell? Thanks 🙏
I would use a multitool and trim the door casing
So you add the new plywood on top for a few inches out into that hallway and then are you putting a transition to a different floor or did you end up putting that plywood All through the rest of the house so that it's on the same level?
I've been wanting to renovate my Mobile for a long time. SO glad to see this video series. What are you going to do about the electrical box. I assume that is ancient as well.
Nice job! Always good to do the project right and not take shortcuts 👍
I purchased a manufactured home and I had to pull all the flooring up. I though the subfloor was soft, but found that there was way too much padding under the vinyl floor which was making it feel like I was walking on a mattress. The 3/4in particleboard is solid with no soft spots. Whoever put the flooring in decided to use self leveler on the particleboard and it is not level. I was told the best fix is to put 3/8in plywood over the particleboard and just staple it with no regard for where the joists are and where the “self leveler” is. It looks like you would recommend that I use screws and screw it to the joist?
Great job as usually Jeff.
Thanks for watching
I knew when I moved into this old house the remodel before i bought it was maybe a cover up in some places. The first obvious on was the back part of the house, see a crack come across the ceiling as I was putting more things in that room up stairs. So with in a month or so of moving in I decided to check this out as much as i could without opening any thing up. What I realized was that the second floor on that part had only three cross beams besides the outer frame. Leaving two spans of 4 feet, and one at about 3 and the other around 2.5 feet. So I built a support frame from about 1/2 of the room on the first floor to add support for that center beam, where that crack in the ceiling showed up. Well now about 12 year later I have dips in my first floor at those 4 foot spans, and the one side is concerning. I don't want to take up the whole floor, for the huge reason is the cost and that fact there is a large kitchen counter and sink on the one side and it covers those spans very well, so I don't want to move it all out. the floor feel like they might have even used Masonite and not plywood or the plywood is rotting or just weak from the long span and a kitchen table one it for many years. This part of the house is basically built on the ground and I have no way under it all. There is a small opening on the one larger better 4 foot area, at my outside basement entrance and I put my cell phone on a stick and slid it under and as best I can tell that area is not rotted. So I can guess it was just to much weight at 4 foot span.
So my plan is to open part of it up to look under and then add 3 to 5 cross supports to the three ones that are there and maybe, get some added support to the ground. Then put most of the flooring back if it is not rotted and then put either a layer of 3/4 PVC sheet on top or 3/4 plywood.. The other fun part is the back door is level with the current floor and opens in, however it will need to be fixed as well since its' bottom was partly bad and I did a makeshift protection and mouse stopper back then, so having to raise that door bottom was going to have to be done anyhow. So I wonder if I go with the PVC sheet should I run it outside to cover the whole base of the walkway, and then put a regular door seal on top of that or just stop at the door with the floor?
"Somebody made an economic decision..." Yes, and I bought that house (regular house, not a trailer home) and now have to move ALL of my stuff back out so I can fix all of the floors. The seller (and the realtor) did me dirty. I was an out-of-state buyer and couldn't walk the floors before the purchase. It seems that no one else (realtor, inspector, appraiser) did either. I am now paying the price. I really appreciate this channel because I have a ton of work to do.
I walked my home and they said...oh it must be the padding....saod it was fixed and it wasnt.. im now in it becaise i already sold my home...im thinking about showing this to the contractor at the 1 momth review...but to think i have to move everything out...i want compensation on that one. Yeah...i agree...support gets in the way of seeing$ . Thanks for the warning im definetely following up on this asap
Didn't you have an inspection done ?😊
@@ceceliabeck8967 I did....that reminds me...i need to call them....they do say that they do not do structural...but then what good are they i thought...most do not do structural overall ..i guess i have to pay a separate fee for a contractor....smh
you have to show up for closing, did you not walk through before closing?
I had two inspections done but again I was an out of state buyer and trusted my realtor.
👀 lol Stella lol….you showed me so much plus what I learned from my dad it’s amazing what I can do now.
right on. on our way to helping 10 million, Cheers!
I read elsewhere and was informed by a guy in the flooring dept at Lowe's not to attach the upper layer of plywood to the joists? Only the original subfloor should be on the joists. The upper layer is just attached to the subfloor with 1 and 1/4 screws (can use construction or sheetrock screws)? I have 3/4 sub floor and 3/8 plywood on top of that? Will that work?
I've done the same only with 1/2 plywood over 5/8 plywood, still very solid. mind you the soft spots were very small.
Jeff, just bought a fixer upper and found 5/8 particle board underlayment under the carpet. It’s heavily stained with dog urine, some of which is still wet. There’s 1/2 ply under that which is in good shape. Thinking I need to pull the particle board and replace with 5/8 OSB to make sure I get rid of the odor. Thoughts?
You can check a carpenter square by using a known straight like on a sheet of plywood and marking a line, then flip the square over and mark another line as close as you can to the first one, if it's a little off you can take a center punch and hit either the inside or outside corner depending on which way it's off. ;-)
From what you said about vinyl cutting off air flow from underneath, isn’t it just going to happen again if you use vinyl flooring?
Lolol. The packaging is more dangerous than.....
I've seen people get frustrated with trying to slice that hard plastic, then try to rip it opened, and cut themselves.
Totally understood that comment.
Future cable contractor likely won't use the old cable, and won't take time to remove and use existing holes, likely just drill into living room/office and run new cable to whatever rooms they want (or just to router for wifi nowadays). Up to you to seal all the holes nowadays, not like decades ago when they used grommets.
What about going over old asbestos and vinyl flooring?
How did you raise up the sub floor near the wall to make the new floor level
Ok question at 1:47 you show how from the 4 foot line to the wall has a nice gap. When filling in how do you aim to remedy the gap? I am just about to start work on a 1985 Single Wide in Indiana. My floors have 2 soft spots one in the hall and another in the closet of a bedroom. I am getting quotes currently for the roof to stop leaks they mentioned I may need more bricks.
So should you put plywood and hardi backer and a vapor barrier.
So if your raising the floor essentially do the doors still clear after installing flooring over the double subfloor
Hi Jeff! New member here ☺️ Love your videos! I asked a question on an older video and wondering if you respond to comments on those or if I should be commenting on new ones to get an answer? Need help! Many thanks :D
What is the next best size to use when You can't find 5/8 in any of the supply stores?
In the beginning of the video where the floor at the by the wall wasn't level and you could put your finger under the ruler how did you raise up that end of the wall I just saw you put a piece of plywood down about 8 inches off the wall but you didn't show how you leveled it off when it dips down on the sub floor
That's what I was waiting to see.
use a floor patch compound before installing the new flooring to level all problem areas!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY please show how to in a video. Thanks. ;)
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Which compound? Can you show that? I have this exact problem and was about to put 5/8'' plywood over the voids until i saw this comment.
My grout in my tiled bathroom floor is cracking due to flexing subfloor. Sub floor has concrete panel between tile and subfloor. What’s the best way to fix this? Thank you !
The knots on the subfloor, do you cover it before installing the vinyl floor?
How would you fix subfloor flexing in a tiled bathroom.?The grout is cracking and there is concrete panel between the tile and subfloor . Thank you!
Good show, Thank You Sir
Based on my experience, a subfloor adhesive good be a good option, but a pretty expensive one. It'll give better sound insulation, adhesion, and vibration (from steps, etc) dumpening.
I absolutely agree the packaging can be more dangerous, i swear i have said the same exact thing lol
what if you have particle board 1/2" over a subfloor that is squeaky? Romove the partial board first or go over with another layer of solid plywood 1/2" sheets with screws? FYI - the old particle board has 1000s of nails in it as well.
maybe a really weird question but does it help to lay down a second subfloor to prevent noise movement to the lower level? Of course I would also use a Mass Loaded Vinyl layer on top of the second layer subfloor.
I have new tile installed with no grout yet, and discovered some hollow spots. Would you recommend injectable Fix-a-Floor repair adhesive?
Can you do this on hardwood? Also, can you level the new subfloor at the same time?
best to remove anything with cleats or nails if possible.
I have to replace some sub floor. I have been told that 5/8 OSB would be good enough. What do you think of using 5/8 OSB instead of 5/8 plywood?
Could you do this on a second story bedroom floor? My daughter's room has a flexing spot that squeaks.
Thanks Jeff. Why plywood and not OSB?
He answered this one above; plywood is stronger and last longer.
question can Bamboo Flooring be installed on your new dub floor ? thank you
how much did this strengthen your floor? does it feel really strong now?
Glad I'm not the only one that couldn't seem to find any actual flooring screws! Watched a TON of your videos and I could never find flooring specific screws like you had mentioned before. Also, curious if there was a reason you chose plywood over OSB here, or maybe I missed that somewhere.
OSB's cheaper (well, used to be) because it's just glued together fibers. It's not glued together dust like what he's covering/complaining about, just a step up.
Plywood is actual wood layers, laminated together. It has some structure to it. Sure it costs a bit more but will last multiple times longer. Now pressure treated plywood, costs even more, but will outlast other parts.
I bet since he's sticking to a budget, he went for plywood.
OSB's cool for wall sheathing, but I'd not pick it for something that gets heavy weight sitting on it (furniture), traffic (weight and flex of people walking), etc.
truth is it was a strength decision this time.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY makes sense, thank you for the reply!
What type of plywood do you use? Is it moisture resistant or do you need that? I found some CDX plywood that I’m thinking of adding to my existing subfloor but don’t know if I should do anything to protect the wood.
I was waiting for this one.🎉 I fixed my floors too finally. I was vary curious what all you had to do. Resizing thoes doors won't be fun. But i guess its a great option. Some of My doors are damaged from cat pee cant save them. It will be interesting finding the right size.
say that. It all comes down to shopping at the proper store so you can get proper replacement parts!
@HomeRenoVisionDIY well thay have almost all these replacement parts at modular home repair stores online, but it's also a rip-off cheap.
Just like my windows being 500$ a window if I bought from them. So I ended up resizing my windows. And it only costs 200$ for a similar size.
I'll figure it out.
UVC light WILL take care of that cat pee!!! Wonderful invention.
I have t&g planks from 1973, they're in good shape but for the 1 room i tore up and did lvp i put 5 or 6mm underlayment down stapled to it. It was still pretty wavy. What would you recommend for me? Should i use thicker plywood going forward?
Hey Jeff, would you reccomend just going over old subflooring if the origional subflooring is only nailed down? (Not screwed or glued)
If the existing subfloor is already exposed then no harm in throwing in some screws anyway IMO. Maybe not as many needed if you're putting another sheet on top. Just my 2c.
I really don't find a lot of value in the glue if you are screwing so save what you have and screw it in.
Jeff I have to ask as I have been watching your videos and listening to you, wouldn't it be very expensive on adding the plywood over the top of what already there, especially like in my case in the bathroom the toilet sinks when you sit on it, which means I need to tear it all up and probably have to put in 2x4 or 2x6
I relate to this video so much!😂
I knew you would Mary. Cheers!
Do you keep that 5/8" gap at the tie-in to the hallway? I'm assuming it's within the flooring tolerances but wasn't sure if that was the case or if it'll be addressed when you take a look at the bathroom and determine what you need to do. Thanks!
Do you patch anything that is super soft? Or cracking? Or just lay the 5/8 over those spots and not?
What to do when the center of the room had a hump in it that was not there before it was moved. There are no piers directly below the hump issue. Same issue in several rooms.
Looks like you used CDX plywood. I'm planning a similar project and have been debating using CDX plywood vs BCX sanded plywood. How smooth does the plywood need to be for LVP underlayment? Is CDX good enough?
would the cement type floor leveler be an option as well?
You need a stable floor before you use the leveler first usually.
Well just maybe the previous repair person didn’t notice the trouble at the time of last repair it has only become noticeable in the weak spot for cpl reasons 1 being all the moister your speaking of went past the plywood that was installed an as ya know it is just being absorbed in the now noticeable problematic area! But idk what they or anyone is thinking! lol I think tho rather than neglect it was probably more of an unintentional act! Just glad u found an noticed the weak spot an now are going to include it in your repair. Gd deal if any other unrepaired parts of the floor at this time in time it also will probably have to be done. Yada dad I best get to it have a grt day.!!
Great how it goes from "should be perfect the first time, perfect every time" to moments later "close enough".... Ya me too!
some hills just are not worth it to die on. Cheers!
My floor is 22" on center! 😢 should it be supported from underneath ?
If you're not into all the math on those complex shape challenges, you can make a template out of cereal box cardboard and masking tape. Especially in tight fiddly bathroom situations. I find that easier on my brain.
I love this man!!!!
It never ceases to amaze me when people cheap out and get lazy about the thing that is literally keeping them from falling to their death.
Gotta remember not everyone has money to fix things.
I would have preferred to live on the plywood and not installed the new flooring if money was an issue
These floors are made out of press board instead of plywood too. I bought mine in 1997 brand new. I live in MI and redid my kitchen floor due to a couple of leaks. New subfloor plywood floor placed and that crap removed.
well done!
I saw this guy with knee pads on I thought i'd gotten on the wrong channel !!!
LOL
So they did exactly what you said you were going to do with that first room? Just put plywood over the problem? I'm confused.
Wish I saw this before my trailer flip I definitely removed the old sub 😅
Me and my wife are thinking about buying our first home and there are soft spots all over and it was a flip from bad what are the odds they replaced the whole sub floor and didn’t just patch and try and level
Deck screws are my choice
? Why not pull up old floor and check for other issues in duct work and plumbing. And replace with 23/32 advantech or 3/4 gp drymax.
Dewd, you bought a double wide in Florida . . ?
What is "overkill?" What is the strongest, permanent or closest to permanent option?
What's the best primer to use over oil base paint , so I can then paint with latex paint or acrylic Enamel. Thx
any flat oil will work. odorless zinnser is nice to work with.
Love the video, but do you not want to run Vinyl in a humid area? Then you said you are putting vinyl right back down.
I bet he'll put some type of venting in the underpinning so it can "breathe" and dry out underneath.
looking into encapsulation in the crawl space. Cheers!