3 Great Curly Maple Wood Finishes That’ll Blow ‘Em Away
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- Learn about making figured curly maple come to life in woodworking projects with a beautiful finish - either clear/natural or with dye stain - in this no-nonsense video tutorial. More on our blog: www.woodworkerssource.com/blog...
Here's a demonstration on three ways to bring out the figure and make it stand out with a beautiful finish on your Curly Maple woodworking projects. Fortunately, they're easier to do than you might think. You'll get solid advice and straightforward instructions on applying three types of products that can be used alone or in combination with each other: clear dewaxed shellac, tung oil, and aniline dye. 
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You should try some Aquafortis. It was used by American gunsmiths from before the Revolution forward. It is a mildly caustic solution of 50% nitric acid and distilled water that is then neutralized by dissolving iron in it until no reaction is seen. Strained through cheesecloth and kept in a glass bottle. You can buy it already prepared from Track of the Wolf. It is wiped on with a dauber to wood that’s had the grain raised several times and left to dry. Heat is then applied, the larger the source of heat the more even over the surface coloring,the smaller such a narrow bar of hot iron the more control over selective darkening. The current artificial sunburst finish in some instruments was originally achieved with with selective use of heat in this way. It can range from a light tan or yellow through orange to a dark brown. It actually cooks the sugar in the maple which is what gives it the caramel coloring. The traditional topcoat was boiled linseed oil which multiplied the translucent effect. A pretty piece of maple looks like it on fire . The oil could also be used to blend damage and was regularly applied on rifles when cleaning.
Such an outstanding video. Detailed every last step but yet short, sweet, and to the point. Best part is you can see the result with each step and exactly dial in what look you're going for.
Thank you sir!
Best video on RUclips for finishing light coloured woods! Thank you SO much for this. After watching dozens and dozens of others, this is EXACTLY what I wanted to know! :)
Short, clear and useful! thank you for the video and for not wasting my time.
Those simple test boards look amazing!! your link is a great resource too.
Love these videos. To the point and no wasted time
That was fantastic. I couldn't believe how that dye made that curly maple just "pop", as you put it. That was an outstanding lesson on finishing wood. Different ways of finishing different woods. Awesome!
I'm so excited. I just got this beautiful piece of curly maple, and I can't wait 2 work with it. So happy 2 find this vid that shows different options 4 finishing. It's going 2 b awesome!
Great vid! Informative without being too technical or confusing. Great info for a beginner like me
Nice project Mike. Can't wait to see the progress.
Hey Mark, I began watching your RUclips Videos for a couple of months now and I have to say, the way you present each topic has really inspired me to get out of my own way and try out a variety of finishing materials and woods as I create new projects for myself to do since I retired late last year (2019). Your presentations give me the feeling of confidence that I have to say, I probably would never have tried without your encouragement to give it a try, and that there is no limit to the number of ways or varieties one can take to make a certain project go from dull to full-out wicked, if you just give it a try. Thank you for your words of encouragement. My hope is that someday you will make some how-to videos that last longer than 10 min. LOL. Because of you I have been visiting my local Woodworkers Source store here in Tucson more frequently, and can't wait to go back for new selections of wood that I have never tried before, because I had always thought it was too expensive to make a purchase, only to find out that the wood selection and costs per board foot at the store is so much better than I ever could have imagined. Thank you again, and I hope to see some new longer how-to's before the next holiday season begins, so I can steal some more of your ideas. Take care during this COVID-19 pandemic.
Such a wealth of knowledge! Very grateful
Thank you.
Love your finishing videos Mark, they really fill a void left by other woodworkers. Seems everyone uses the easiest possible finish rather than take a couple more simple steps to pop the grain.
Thank you for the feedback! I appreciate it.
wow great video just amazing I appreciate your work and effort
Thanks! Gonna try out the alcohol colouring today! Love how it pops. Great vid!
Fantastic explanation. This will help me a lot with my guitar build.
Fantastic vid - making some decisions on a slab and this certainly helps. Thanks!
This was a really helpful discussion on finishing options for my absolute favorite wood to work with. Nice job!
Stunning results!
Great video ! Loved watching it
Thanks. I’m about to do some burl. Standing in Homedepot picking something up!
Awesome video
Excellent video thank you😄
I like the schlaque waxless. That's got the shine but almost a matt kind of look. And it has that solid well l finished look but like it's not got a thick heavy ugly coat of acrylic. I saw a guy a japanese builder using some dyes I think to get the color but then applied a thick gel like finish coat which he wiped off near the end. And it looked a lot like what you did. Thank you so much
Good video. Wanted to add that a lot of guitar makers dye the woid one color, usually black, then sand off like you show, then dye it another color. Makes the maple look 3D. Check out David Thomas McNaught guitars. That guy does some crazy cool maple.
Very informative.
Thanks
Great video! Thank you!
Really good information
Thanks
WOW this is amazing
Excellent info. Thanks.
Great video and thank you for the info. I build custom guitars (one-offs,not production stuff) and I will use this info on my future builds.
Great Video!!
amazing finishes, also another good one is to use map gas and lightly burn the curly maple and use a brass brush to brush off excess burn going with the grain then finish with a high gloss top coat..
Great video!
AWESOME! Thanks!!
i really enjoy your channel
Thanks for a very helpful tutorial, great options disscussed, very helpful.
great info thank you
I’ve used tru oil on guitar bodies with great results .
thanks for the video, good info. I'm doing some work with curly maple. Any ideas for staining curly maple and curly cherry together in one project?
Excellent Video - I wonder what you think of using aqua fortis plus heat as an alternate way to raise the curl?
Such a helpful and succinct video as others have said. What grit do you use to sand between each of the 3 coats of the Behlen maple brown dye after the initial 220 grit? 220 grit each time?
Great video! Quick question in regards to using the dye; was a wash-coat applied in order to control blotching? I have seen lots of people recommending a wood conditioner or a 1 lb cut shellac prior to dyeing maple. Thanks for your help. That maple turned out gorgeous!
Good information Any suggests to use those products on Exterior decking maybe tiger wood or cummin I want that high gloss look. Something that's gonna last a year or two ?
Steve RichardsonI opted to use dye,oil, shellac, and final cover with lacquer for a maple dining room table. I couldn’t be happier. THANKS.
Great video, I am about to start working on a guitar neck project that has an undesirable looking white maple neck and back, both sides have a light polyurethane clear coat (satin type finish). I like the idea of the Danish Oil to darken the wood (which is the desired goal). What do you recommend to remove the polyurethane that is on the fretboard so I can apply the Danish Oil ? I heard Paint thinner helps soften the poly, then maybe some light some wet and dry light sanding ? Then would a satin finish help seal the Danish Oil or is that even necessary as perhaps the Danish Oil would dry hard enough to seal the wood ? Thx Steve
I am working on a piece of wall decor with some maple I salvaged from an old dresser. I believe there are some curls in it, but nothing quite as extreme as in your video. I like the idea of a surface that invites you to touch it, so I don't want to use polyurethane. Do you think an amber shellac would be enough to achieve this? If not, what would you recommend?
I'm inspired. Thank you for sharing. Is Maple the type of wood you are using or are you referring to the finishing? Will are accomplish similar results if I use the Pine wood. It's the only type of wood I'm familiar with.
can you please clarify the danish oil part. i like Danish oils and would like to see a curly maple board done
Hey thanks that helped me a bunch. I'm still trying to figure out all the different finishes.. I am into guitars and would like to know how to get similar finishes. Not a big fan of the acrylic stuff that I'd used in mass by the industry. What is the difference with nitrocelulose laqure and regular laquer. My spelling? Lol
Nice! A question. Can I do the 3+ coats of dye, then do the tung oil layer and then cover it with shellac? Or is shellac not suitable on that case? (Planning a finish for a guitar with french polish)
Chatoyancy is a major component of a good wooden project. If you want the look of wood grain, get laminate.
Shellac (any kind), thinned polyurethane, and tung oil are the best products I've ever used to get chatoyance.
-- Minwax tung oil seems to be less amber than Waterlox for crystal chatoyance. Waterlox seems to be more durable against moisture and chemicals. Armor seal is great too.
-- Spar urethane gives you that Jurassic Park amber with fewer coats, and seems to resist the sun rather well. You can dilute it, plus it seems different from normal polyurethane.
-- Amber shellac is amazing when you use dark walnut stain. It's like gold embedded in coal. A personal favorite of mine.
-- 1.5lb cut dewaxed shellac is probably the most crystal chatoyance you can get without the hassles of linseed oil.
-- Lacquer can give you mixed results. Black lacquer is a different ball game.
-- Water based polyurethane ruins chatoyance. This video confirms that water poly is a better top-coat. If you want a beautiful finish, put in the time!
When applying the Danish Oil ....do you sand between applications like you did the dye mixture ?
What grit did you use to sand the dye? And did you sand the last coat?
When applying a colored Danish Oil on hard maple can you top coat it with Waterlox to produce a more durable finish and depth of color?
Is it possible to do the same dying techniques to birdseye maple? I have a dresser and bedframe that I feel would look stunning with a bit of color, but don't want to take away from the beauty of the wood
I have has great luck with 2 coats of Aqua Fortis, heat, sanding, then several coats of Tru Oil and Armour All with hand rubbing for a classic gun stock finish. Cheers!
in the 3rd portion of the video, after the first dye application.. what do you sand down the wood with?
What finish was used on the purple-ish board? Great video! Thanks!
Will the dying and sanding process have the same results on birds-eye maple? I am finishing a custom birds-eye maple guitar neck. I want a slightly darker color than natural and would love to enhance the contrast of the birds-eye without muddying the detail. Thanks for any advice your can offer!
Can I apply the same dying techniques to birdseye maple?
I want to finish the curly maple handle of a tomahawk to a weathered but beautiful dark finish. Would you suggest 'Nutmeg Brown" Behlen's stain then boiled linseed oil?
Is it true that boiled linseed oil pops the grain better than other oils?
I did my first piece with brown orange and yellow aniline dyes. It turned out ok but just not the look I quite wanted. I would like more deep natural look. I was wondering if there is anything else that works for that. I see pictures on google of amazing looking wood when finished. I am not sure if I should kiln dry the wood and then soak it in Mineral oil over night to get a most translucent curl look. Do you have any ideas?
you should show the old tannic acid, iron nitrate method that was commonly used on early american longrifle stocks
Hi,
I recently made a counter top and a peninsula top. I was ready to stain and finish but decided to seal the underside first with a clear coat finish. After applying the finish, the peninsula looked almost cherry in color making me think the curly maple was a different species of wood. My normal counter top was a true amber maple color. My question is this. Is it possible to make a maple counter top match the peninsula color? I don't want to have to make another maple top.
Thanks for the video. I really like how you present the different options.
Do you have a product recommendation for finishing maple that might prevent maples yellowing over time from UV light exposure?
Preston Hoffman you bet. A coat of dewaxed shellac and then top it off with a water based finish like general finishes high performance water based top coat. That combo has a really good longevity when it comes to non yellowing
@@WoodworkersSourcecom - "defaced shellac"? really! Don't you mean "dewaxed" shellac?
Generally, how long does it take for the linseed oil to dry? I just want to be sure that nitrocellulose will adhere and harden. Thanks in advance.
any special tips for spalted maple?
Thank you for this great video! I was wondering if it would be possible to either make a video or tell me how to proceed with wormy maple to make the wood dark, but still keep the wormy figure visible. My tests with a traditional oil stain and a colored hard oil finish are pretty much hiding the wormy figure. I thought of using dyes like in this video with sanding sealer but I am not too confident it will keep the figure, or will darken the wood properly if I put sanding sealer on the natural bare wood then stain. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
The danish oil he uses towards the end could do the trick.
And tips on what to do for birds eye maple?
Great, informative video. After (3) coats of Zinsser Seal Coat, could you top coat it with say, General Finishes Arm-R-Seal oil and urethane topcoat?
Terry West yes you definitely can. Just make sure you’re using a dewaxed shellac like the SealCoat you mentioned.
This is a great video - thank you Mark. I do have a question about regular hard maple. Just about everything I tried (including golden oak and cherry Danish oil) comes our blotchy in some areas. Same with gel stain. I can eliminate the blotchyness with shellac base but then I don't get the color intensity. Is this something a dye would address? I have not tried a dye, and would shellac still be needed as a base when using a dye? Thanks.
Right, dye is the stuff to use on hard maple. I would use a water based type, applied right to bare wood. Then topcoat with just about anything you want.
Hi Mark, would this same process work on a curly maple guitar neck?
so its Sanding Sealer, Dye, Sand dye. Tung Oil, then shellac?
Hi
Glad to see your video
I am from India🇮🇳 an artist a painter and a sculpturist
Now a days trying to make a violin with maple and spruce but can't get it. Could you supply it?
Haha its because of this video and the bubinga video that i spent 600 on some wood. Their website is like a candy store. Im new to the hobby and love these vids. Keep em up! Question...do you have experts on hand available to answer questions if i just call in?
I bought a beautiful old curly maple cabinet - I didn't see this until I got it home (I had planned on painting but it's too pretty). For me, the tung oil makes the nicest finish. Because I know and have nothing, I need a "shopping" list so I have everything on hand. And I need an idiot proof step by step list of what to do. I don't mind the time it will take. Also, it looks like the supplies (which I will use only once) will cost more than the cabinet did. Do you have a list of what to buy and an exact how to? OR is there a way of showing the beauty of the wood without so many supplies? I've looked for other instructions on line but they also speak to experienced craftsmen.
Not clear from your video, but did you sand the 3rd. coat of Dye, then put the Tung or Linseed oil on, or leave the 3rd coat UNsanded, then apply the oil? Thanks!!
Great video! I'm not a woodworker, but I have some questions about finishing maple. I asked about which type of maple to use after your video about different types of maple. I'm building a sit-stand desk, for a computer, monitors, keyboard and mouse. I'm generally not abusive on desk surfaces, but I would like it to be reasonably durable (e.g., use a mouse, without a mouse pad). The desk will have a 48" x 30" x 1.5" solid wood top. I'm planning to have someone build it for me.
After I watched your video about types of maple, I'm leaning to curly maple or quilted maple, but I'm wondering if curly maple or quilted maple is a good choice for a desk and if so how to finish it. I would like to emphasize the natural character of the wood, without going over the top making it dark or changing the colour. I also would like a finish that's reasonable durable, will stand up to a mouse and keyboard and won't be damaged by some sunlight. (I don't want it to discolour with age if possible.)
I would appreciate your suggestions on finishing, if I go with curly maple or quilted maple. Thanks.
hey Daryl, Mark posted a reply to you on the blog FYI
What was used to get the red,green,gold, colors in the wood
I'm building a guitar with curly maple as a "neck thru" and the wings are curly black walnut. Any thoughts about doing the dies on the black wanut right along with the maple?...awesome video!
+MrJeffangel ...also, what brands of dye do you recommend?
Thank you for the great video on finishing the curly maple! Question, at the beginning you held up a grayish-pewter colored plate. How did you achieve that color? I love it and want to use that color for a live edge dining table I am in the process of making. Thanks!
Andrew Joos Since you posted the same Q on our blog, I'm putting the link in here in case anyone else wants to know how to do the grayish dye color: www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/tips-tricks/awesome-wood-finishes-curly-maple/#comment-1899287963
Woodworkers Sourc
I have a 25 year old table with lacquer finish. The finish if ok but I just want to give it an extra coat of clear finish. I can't spray lacquer in the apartment. If I scuff the surface with 320 grit, COULD I USE WATERLOX WIPE-ON ?
It says on the can
Nice music, and not too loud.
Does Waterlox enhance figured wood?
This was excellent! Thank you for going through the different examples. If I was going purely for enhancing the brightness/sheen of the natural figure...keeping that “shimmer” if you will...what would you recommend? Based on your video, I feel like boiled linseed oil would best achieve this...but is there any process that would work better? I plan on making each of my daughters a jewelry box from figured maple and really want that natural shimmer in the wood to pop. Thanks for any tips!!
Either the oil or dewaxed shellac sounds like will do what you want. Oil gives it a warmer/yellower color. Shellac less so. That's a consideration.
Woodworkers Source In the video you suggested the oil then the dewaxed shellac before doing a top coat of choice, so maybe a combo would work for me as well? I do want these to last and hopefully be keepsakes for them one day.
@@bobbarr613 haha, thanks for the reminder.... it's an older video so I wasn't sure what exactly was in it lol. I'd say you're on the right track though - oil to boost the figure, and something on top to seal and protect. Check out Old Masters Tung Oil Varnish (not the 100% tung oil, but tung oil varnish), we've used that in a lot of more recent videos. It might be a simpler way to get the look and long term protection without having to apply 2 or 3 different products.
Woodworkers Source I will do so :) Thanks so much for the responses and helpful advice!!
Just so I'm clear, can you tell me which option to choose for the most figure pop while keeping the wood it's lightest? De-wax shellac or oil?
Yep De-waxed shellac is the better option.
After staining, could an oil poly finish be applied? Excellent video (:
soradical16 Yes
Does dye affect end grain different than stain. Any suggestions to keep end grain from turning dark other than fine sanding?
I'm afraid fine sanding is the best way. But, yes, dye does turn end grain slightly darker than the rest.
I love your video!
I wondering if this also work with regular maple? and if I put lacquer for my top coats. Do I need to sand btw coats and how many coats consider good? How can you tell if it is sand smooth? I am sorry I am a starter on wood working. =P
Sure, it'll work with regular maple as far as coloring the wood goes. It's a fine method. Whether or not your sand between coats of lacquer largely depends on how smooth of a finish you want --- but generally I do recommend sanding between each in order to get the best, smoothest finish possible. The only downside to not sanding between coats is it just won't quite be as smooth as it can be. And only you'll know. :-)
+Woodworkers Source thank you so much :)
two part urethane as a top coat, wet sand and buff for a glass finish.
Hello Mark. I just recently purchased an extremely vividly curled piece of tiger striped maple from Ebay. Its 33" long, 5.5" wide and 2" thick. I intend on taking my time and making a long stock for my bolt action shotgun. (Look up Marlin Goose gun, things are crazy). After I get it right where I like it, fit-wise, id like to explode the grain and give it a vibrant gold color. Is there any stains that I can mix with the denatured alcohol to get that effect? I know its a sanding and re-applying process, but im looking for goldish yellow with dark gold curles. Any recommendations? Also, whats the strongest high gloss, damage resistant coating? And how hard is Maple to carve? Please and Thanks!!! ~Tony~
I've had good results using aniline dyes. You can choose whatever you wish, including hot pink, blood red, and electric blue. you can get dye packs where your mix primaries up to the color you want.
Wood shop teacher in early 90s said don’t use hardware store tung oil , pure tung. Takes longer but no vocs or driers, more food safe . Video on arrowood oil ?
Can you use tung oil then seal with a water based poly?
shane vinson sure. However, the tung oil should be cured before applying the water based finish. Or if in doubt lay down a coat of dewaxed shellac before the water based finish.
After sanding the last coat of dye off, does it still pop if you apply a tung oil varnish? I'm building 2 cherry nightstands and finishing with a tung oil varnish. I have a billet of flame maple that I had lying around and in the shaker tradition want to use material I have lying around. I still want it to contrast harmoniously with the cherry and I'm afraid a dark dye or something will make it look bad in contrast. If it still pops after sanding it off and applying the tung oil, I'd like keeping the blondish color. I've never worked with this kind of figured maple though.
Yes, it should still "pop" quite nicely. Do you have enough to perform a small test with?
I do have a large enough billet for the fronts and test scraps. What color dye should I use to not clash with cherry.
I noticed you were sanding the dye by hand. Could you use your orbital sander with 220?
Yes, sure. There are some downsides, though. Risk of sanding too far and the risk of leaving behind swirls/pig tails.
If I want to topcoat with polyurethane after tung varnish, does it need to be oil or water based?
Doesn’t matter as long as the tung oil coat is cured
I am finishing a table. I have applied two coats of boiled linseed oil and will apply one more. I am doing a fine sand between coats and allowing each coat to cure 12 to 15 hours between coats. I would like to apply a hard clear coat over the table. The table is for my son and it will take a beating. I am thinking oil based poly. How long should i wait after applying the last coat of BLO before applying the poly?
Give it at least 7 days if you can, but fewer may be just fine
is the sanding around 4:12 220 grit?
How would you dye 1.5" curly or quilted hard maple turning squares to where the dye would completely penetrate the wood for turning at a later point?
jxbartle I don't think dyes can can penetrate that much. Dye after turning.
+jxbartle get a vacuum chamber setup. It will basically suck the air out of the wood and replace it with dye.