thanks for taking the time to do your awesome videos Stu... just building is time consuming enough without videoing and editing everything , thanks again
I'm binge watching your videos Stu. Super helpful! I have always loved the look of the 4 cowl, but I have an 8. Have you ever seen an 8 with the "Cheeks" like a 4? I think it would be super cool looking!
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 I’m at the stage of building my plenum and top cowling. I took your great advice on using the mil spec hinges for my sides and bottom cowl underneath. I’m thinking of switching the bottom to Skybolts those as I’m not happy with the fit. Getting a lot out of your generous info sharing.
@@stevedame2419 that’s great. The sky bolts are really nice and 100% recommended on curved surfaces. I’ve been pleasantly surprised with how good the hinges are along sides since I’ve rarely used them. For some reason this cowling just fits really nice. I remember on past RVs inserting the hinge pin was harder than this RV4.
I’m trying to adapt the Vans baffle kit to the James plenum and the rear portion will work out well but am perplexed with what I’m going to need to do to seal everything at the front. Did you ever do a video on that?
Thanks for your great videos. You had a very nice carbon plenum, I think on your Rv8 project. What resin combination did you use? I am concerned about temperature distortion. Thanks.
That is a consid yes. If the front skin on mine fit perfectly (it doesn't) then yes I'd likely add a 0.025 or 0.032 shim between the firewall flange and the skybolts alum attachments (this is likely the solution for better made kits such as RV7,8,9). However I had to actually shim the front skin to get it to fit nicely around the forward fuselage (shim between front skin and firewall flange). In fact the skims were 0.063 in places and my cowling actually ends up below the firewall flange in places. I'll build it up later (after flying) to make it look better. Thanks for asking.
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Thanks Stu, I just installed the engine on my 7 and your videos give me things to consider rather than doing by trial and error. Really helps speed up my build!
I also like the look of the hinge method of attachment. I also plan to use the extruded hinge, but I’ve got a question about hinge size. The plans have you use 1/8 hinge but replace the pin with .090 pin. The extruded hinge seems to only come in .090 or .180 hinge. Are you just using the .090 hinge and matching pin? Thank you.
Yes you can’t order the hinge with a smaller pin to my knowledge - you just have to order it separately. The intent there is when the hinge goes along the firewall curve. The full size pin would be a nightmare. You also have to angle every single eyelet to clear along a curve. Getting the pin in and out is a pain. I even had a RV7 overnight in my hangar once because he couldn’t get the pins back in after a routine check of the engine. So yes I use the full size pin but I only use it along the sides where the curve is easy to deal with. Make sense?
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 yes, I know you have to order the smaller pin separately, I just wanted to see if you plan on the smaller .090 hinge extrusion or the larger .180 extrusion. I’m also aware of the need to file each hinge to go around a curve. It does look so good when done right..
@@thomasaltruda yeah it does look good and the number of “connection” points make it strong. I’d have to measure the actual size of the pin but suspect it’s the bigger one. Here is the exact part number from aircraft spruce. The -6 at end only means 6ft length. MS20001P3-6. Hope this helps
I built two vans aircraft, a RV4 and a Harmon Rocket. I used the aluminum hinges. The cowl is more solidly mounted.
Grazie.
thanks for taking the time to do your awesome videos Stu... just building is time consuming enough without videoing and editing everything , thanks again
Thanks for another incredibly informative video. I learn so many little tips and tricks just from listening to you during these videos.
Thanks for doing these videos Stu. Very informative. Your 4 is coming along nicely.
Looking forward to this series, Stu. Thanks!
I'm binge watching your videos Stu. Super helpful! I have always loved the look of the 4 cowl, but I have an 8. Have you ever seen an 8 with the "Cheeks" like a 4? I think it would be super cool looking!
Would be cool looking. Just not required on 8 since fuselage is wider. The love the fact that the engine on the 4 is too big for the fuselage.
Thanks for posting Stu, Great info...
Going over the video for a few more tips and tricks, I will be taking my RV 4 fuselage off the jig this Saturday 06/10 👍
Excellent Info Stu!
awesome Stu, will you be posting part II sometime?
I never got around to it sorry. Have any specific questions? I’ll update a video this week on flying the RV4 lean of peak
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 I’m at the stage of building my plenum and top cowling. I took your great advice on using the mil spec hinges for my sides and bottom cowl underneath. I’m thinking of switching the bottom to Skybolts those as I’m not happy with the fit. Getting a lot out of your generous info sharing.
@@stevedame2419 that’s great. The sky bolts are really nice and 100% recommended on curved surfaces. I’ve been pleasantly surprised with how good the hinges are along sides since I’ve rarely used them. For some reason this cowling just fits really nice. I remember on past RVs inserting the hinge pin was harder than this RV4.
I’m trying to adapt the Vans baffle kit to the James plenum and the rear portion will work out well but am perplexed with what I’m going to need to do to seal everything at the front. Did you ever do a video on that?
Thanks for your great videos.
You had a very nice carbon plenum, I think on your Rv8 project.
What resin combination did you use? I am concerned about temperature distortion. Thanks.
Yes in engine compartment I use a different resin. HTR-212.
Here’s a link.
www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/cmpages/htr212resin.php
Hey Stu, did you shim between firewall flange and sky bolt plates or rivet directly to firewall flange?
That is a consid yes. If the front skin on mine fit perfectly (it doesn't) then yes I'd likely add a 0.025 or 0.032 shim between the firewall flange and the skybolts alum attachments (this is likely the solution for better made kits such as RV7,8,9). However I had to actually shim the front skin to get it to fit nicely around the forward fuselage (shim between front skin and firewall flange). In fact the skims were 0.063 in places and my cowling actually ends up below the firewall flange in places. I'll build it up later (after flying) to make it look better. Thanks for asking.
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Thanks Stu, I just installed the engine on my 7 and your videos give me things to consider rather than doing by trial and error. Really helps speed up my build!
@@tf1083 your RV7 will be easier for firewall fit. You prob want to add a 0.025 shim
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 thanks Stu....
I also like the look of the hinge method of attachment. I also plan to use the extruded hinge, but I’ve got a question about hinge size. The plans have you use 1/8 hinge but replace the pin with .090 pin. The extruded hinge seems to only come in .090 or .180 hinge. Are you just using the .090 hinge and matching pin? Thank you.
Yes you can’t order the hinge with a smaller pin to my knowledge - you just have to order it separately. The intent there is when the hinge goes along the firewall curve. The full size pin would be a nightmare. You also have to angle every single eyelet to clear along a curve. Getting the pin in and out is a pain. I even had a RV7 overnight in my hangar once because he couldn’t get the pins back in after a routine check of the engine.
So yes I use the full size pin but I only use it along the sides where the curve is easy to deal with.
Make sense?
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 yes, I know you have to order the smaller pin separately, I just wanted to see if you plan on the smaller .090 hinge extrusion or the larger .180 extrusion. I’m also aware of the need to file each hinge to go around a curve. It does look so good when done right..
@@thomasaltruda yeah it does look good and the number of “connection” points make it strong. I’d have to measure the actual size of the pin but suspect it’s the bigger one. Here is the exact part number from aircraft spruce. The -6 at end only means 6ft length. MS20001P3-6. Hope this helps
Man you old really teach the ACS guys a few things.