Some ideas on how to improve your engine installation. Baffling overview and cooling. Firewall steel penetration fittings. Securing wires and managing that firewall real estate.
2 Comments: 1) The Fairchild Aircraft Co. did a study during WWII on their air-cooled Ranger 440 inline engine. They found that any air beyond 1/4" had very little effect on cooling the cylinder. Forcing the air to follow a path around the cylinder had more to do with cooling than other methods. 2) the braided covering over your wires etc: google F6 Woven Wrap. The hot rod guys use this all over their engines. In addition the F6 is a braided split covering (many sizes) that is approved for aircraft use firewall forward. (This is from the manufacturer I talked to, but check to make sure the one you purchase is the same). It is very easy to use, I got mine from an electronics supply house.
Great info, Stu. Man you do good work. Seeing this kind of attention to detail and thought process required to make this stuff happen, I think you've convince me that I'm a flyer and not a builder. But...I...want...to...build! Jury's still out. Thanks, Stu!
You may want to shield the fuel distribution block, that sits on the top of the engine, from heat. Any advantage you can get from cooling the fuel, will help keep CHT down, also.
Thanks, Stu. Couple of questions: 1. What were the firewall fittings for wiring and cabling called. Do you have a part number or specific name on Vans or Aircraft Spruce? 2. On the 8, where would you put starter solenoid if not firewall? What about brake fluid reservoir? I was planning on putting ANL current limiter there as well. Are there better spots? 3. Do you have quick drain for oil? I liked the trick with the pitot tubing and zip ties.
There are several companies that make or provide stainless firewall passthrus. Here are nice ones from Cleveland Tools that I'm using on RV4: www.cleavelandtool.com/products/stainless-steel-firewall-pass-through-kit?_pos=1&_sid=369024df2&_ss=r&variant=31565767082046 Solenoids are current limiter are on forward side of gear tower - left side. My goal was as clean firewall as possible. Brake fluid are reservoirs mounted directly to rudder pedals. So you have 2 reservoirs instead of 1. Yes quick drain for oil - you'll thank yourself.
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 More economically, 4 or 6 pack of stainless curtain rod holders from amazon. Cut the weld on half of them to create rings. The firewall can be sandwiched between the ring and the flange of the tube. Add fire sleeve and it functions just as good.
I wonder if you could do a whole video on your plenum design including any comments on IO vapor lock potential in hot climates (maybe in CA this isn't a concern).
I’ve never had any vapour lock problems. Even in Canada it will still get heat soaked in there. As far as design the contour follows the curve of the cowling so once you have the baffles cut clear you have the basic design done. I give min 1/2” clearance to everything including fuel lines
Stu, thank you so much for your first class videos. Could you give some guidance as to where you located your solenoids etc.? I’d like to keep my firewall as clean as possible. Also, did you use a heat shield?
I put them on the frontside of the left gear tower on the RV8. There is definitely a trade off between accessibility and clean firewall but shouldn’t need to access them. Thanks for comments
Stu, always impressed by your work. I'm currently working on the air filter housing and backplate to throttle servo for an IO-320. I'm inspired by your elaborate paint work on the airbox as well as the plenum. What was the prep work for that? Sanding and micro on fiberglass or did you build up a custom air intake system all from carbon fiber?
Nice video Stu. I'm finishing-up an RV-9A. I'm using the same firewall pass throughs you're using. Does the fire sleeve get filled with high temp silicone after all the wiring is done?
Stu I was wondering how much consideration you gave to the engine cooling cowl on the bottom of the plane ? I know it's possible if done correctly to create a vacuum effect, that'll draw air out of the cooling plenum, to enhance cooling air flow.
I’m considering modifying the cowling. I’m going to install an exit area ramp and potentially louvers on bottom cowling. I’m doing it just for cooling, not speed as I’ll be at VNE in cruise
The oil cooler is mounted on firewall using RV10 install kit from Vans. Then you just need a 4” flange on baffling. I also use a butterfly valve to reduce airflow to oil cooler in winter. Thanks for asking!
What type of connections did you make to the baffling to attach a hose to cool something else (like directed to the fuel pump, PMag for additional directed cooling? Thanks!
1” diameter alum rings riveted to baffling. Check out Aircraft Spruce www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php?clickkey=287017 Does that answer you’re question? Then just use 1” scat tube to connect them
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Roger. I'd be interested to know where your EW CG came out with that. I'm at 78.78 with a 12lb carbon prop and a PV O-360. Wish I was a little more forward.
It’s called expandable sleeve. I like it because it splits along side and you can put it on after wires are run instead of having to thread wire through. www.steinair.com/product/expandable-sleeving-38-black/
Of you mean taking off the plenum? It takes 2 min with a drill and screwdriver bit. Always plus and minus to everything. Big plus is way better cooling
2 Comments: 1) The Fairchild Aircraft Co. did a study during WWII on their air-cooled Ranger 440 inline engine. They found that any air beyond 1/4" had very little effect on cooling the cylinder.
Forcing the air to follow a path around the cylinder had more to do with cooling than other methods.
2) the braided covering over your wires etc: google F6 Woven Wrap. The hot rod guys use this all over their engines. In addition the F6 is a braided split covering (many sizes) that is approved for aircraft use firewall forward. (This is from the manufacturer I talked to, but check to make sure the one you purchase is the same). It is very easy to use, I got mine from an electronics supply house.
good job
one of your best yet! Just ordered my 14!!!
Thanks for the detailed look at your engine bay. I have a Piel Emeraude awaiting a firewall forward rebuild. I’ve learned a lot from you already.
Nice airplane!!
Love the Emeraude. I hear it flies really nice
A poor mans Rv. It hasn’t flown for a number of years.
Love the tips. I'll be using those soon. Thanks.
Great tips. Building an RV7 and am all ears! Cheers
Great info, Stu. Man you do good work. Seeing this kind of attention to detail and thought process required to make this stuff happen, I think you've convince me that I'm a flyer and not a builder. But...I...want...to...build! Jury's still out. Thanks, Stu!
Excellent video. Lots of useful info.
Great video Stu. Some really great advice in this one.
You may want to shield the fuel distribution block, that sits on the top of the engine, from heat. Any advantage you can get from cooling the fuel, will help keep CHT down, also.
Thanks, Stu. Couple of questions: 1. What were the firewall fittings for wiring and cabling called. Do you have a part number or specific name on Vans or Aircraft Spruce? 2. On the 8, where would you put starter solenoid if not firewall? What about brake fluid reservoir? I was planning on putting ANL current limiter there as well. Are there better spots? 3. Do you have quick drain for oil? I liked the trick with the pitot tubing and zip ties.
There are several companies that make or provide stainless firewall passthrus. Here are nice ones from Cleveland Tools that I'm using on RV4:
www.cleavelandtool.com/products/stainless-steel-firewall-pass-through-kit?_pos=1&_sid=369024df2&_ss=r&variant=31565767082046
Solenoids are current limiter are on forward side of gear tower - left side. My goal was as clean firewall as possible.
Brake fluid are reservoirs mounted directly to rudder pedals. So you have 2 reservoirs instead of 1.
Yes quick drain for oil - you'll thank yourself.
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 More economically, 4 or 6 pack of stainless curtain rod holders from amazon. Cut the weld on half of them to create rings. The firewall can be sandwiched between the ring and the flange of the tube. Add fire sleeve and it functions just as good.
I wonder if you could do a whole video on your plenum design including any comments on IO vapor lock potential in hot climates (maybe in CA this isn't a concern).
I’ve never had any vapour lock problems. Even in Canada it will still get heat soaked in there. As far as design the contour follows the curve of the cowling so once you have the baffles cut clear you have the basic design done. I give min 1/2” clearance to everything including fuel lines
Stu, thank you so much for your first class videos. Could you give some guidance as to where you located your solenoids etc.? I’d like to keep my firewall as clean as possible. Also, did you use a heat shield?
I put them on the frontside of the left gear tower on the RV8. There is definitely a trade off between accessibility and clean firewall but shouldn’t need to access them. Thanks for comments
Stu, always impressed by your work. I'm currently working on the air filter housing and backplate to throttle servo for an IO-320. I'm inspired by your elaborate paint work on the airbox as well as the plenum. What was the prep work for that? Sanding and micro on fiberglass or did you build up a custom air intake system all from carbon fiber?
Just lots of elbow grease with micro balloon.
Nice video Stu. I'm finishing-up an RV-9A. I'm using the same firewall pass throughs you're using. Does the fire sleeve get filled with high temp silicone after all the wiring is done?
Yup that’s a good practice. I do it at very end after clamping since it’s messy at first
Hi Stu, you recommend bolting the engine baffles together rather than riveting them, what bolts and nuts do you use. Great content, thanks
I typically use 6-32 or 8-32 screws along side - MS35206. To secure the plenum I use washer head screws AN525 with nylon washers underneath
Stu I was wondering how much consideration you gave to the engine cooling cowl on the bottom of the plane ? I know it's possible if done correctly to create a vacuum effect, that'll draw air out of the cooling plenum, to enhance cooling air flow.
I’m considering modifying the cowling. I’m going to install an exit area ramp and potentially louvers on bottom cowling. I’m doing it just for cooling, not speed as I’ll be at VNE in cruise
Hi Stu. I notice you mounted the oil cooler on the engine mount. Did you fabricate the ducting for the scat hose or is it available to buy?
The oil cooler is mounted on firewall using RV10 install kit from Vans. Then you just need a 4” flange on baffling. I also use a butterfly valve to reduce airflow to oil cooler in winter. Thanks for asking!
@@stusaircraftfactory6592thanks for answering so promptly. I enjoy your videos and their quality.
You did a beautiful job on that RV8.
Thanks
What type of connections did you make to the baffling to attach a hose to cool something else (like directed to the fuel pump, PMag for additional directed cooling? Thanks!
1” diameter alum rings riveted to baffling.
Check out Aircraft Spruce
www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/appages/ductflanges.php?clickkey=287017
Does that answer you’re question? Then just use 1” scat tube to connect them
Where did you put your battery? Do you prefer zip ties over lacing in your harnesses?
Battery is EarthX behind baggage compartment. I have no prob with zip ties as long as they don’t grab engine mounts etc.
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 In the back behind the rear baggage compartment?
Yes. Access through baggage shelf
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Roger. I'd be interested to know where your EW CG came out with that. I'm at 78.78 with a 12lb carbon prop and a PV O-360. Wish I was a little more forward.
Mine was 77.61. Weight was 1079 lbs. CofG was perfect when light and heavy. Next one will have lighter engine but heavier prop
What is the black braided stuff you put over sensor wires?
It’s called expandable sleeve. I like it because it splits along side and you can put it on after wires are run instead of having to thread wire through.
www.steinair.com/product/expandable-sleeving-38-black/
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 thank you 👍 My Dad flew Clunks at the OTU in Cold Lake in the late 50s. I expect it has changed since then.
@@sblack48 Is a clunk a Vampire?
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 cf100
Where is your battery? Thanks.
Behind baggage wall. EarthX battery
That looks like a horrible system. Simple maintenance like pulling the plugs becomes a big ordeal.
Of you mean taking off the plenum? It takes 2 min with a drill and screwdriver bit. Always plus and minus to everything. Big plus is way better cooling
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Well...that doesn't sound too bad after all.