my Canik Mete likes 124 grain and heavier. I have dealt firearms for 45 years, have had 6 different Caniks out of hundreds of 9mm pistols. Canik is now my favorite semi auto, tied with the CZs. And then when talking wheel guns, my choice has always been Ruger.
The Lee mold that does NOT have lube grooves makes boolits that grab the rifling better. Works great - 1000s of rounds - in the TP9 and SA. You were one of the guys that inspired me to start casting so no disrespect intended here.
Great channel here Mr. Deuce Range scrap, cast in the larger 9mm Lee mold, size, powder coat, then "heat treat" 30 minutes, quench. Shoots great in TP9.
1. Mic your bullets and slug your bore Bullet diam needs to be .001" greater than groove diameter. 2. Lead too soft for the pressure of your rounds? Check lead hardness with artists pencils. If so add some antimony or get some linotype and cold water quench your castings.Cut your charge or try slower (lower pressure) powder. 3. If it has polygonal rifling may never be a good cast bullet shooter.(many are not) I always enjoy your postings 👍 DJ
Since delving into PCP rifle shooting, I have learned that barrel twist rate and or vs projectile weight and speed can have massive effect on accuracy and precision. Much more so than powder burners for sure. I'd say that Canick twist rate isn't playing nice. Or maybe the type and depth of the rifling. Etc, etc. It just doesn't like those cast bullets. Or possibly just the weight or shape of them. Find out what it likes that you can reload and shoot those.
Yep, I wanted something other than another black pistol but really didn't want gold accents. While it was the same price I had to special order the fde one.
I've had the Canik TP9SA for a number of years now, and it's a great cast lead bullet shooter. The only cast bullet that has ever given me a problem in 9 mm is the Lee 124 gr. TC tumble lube bullet, have no idea why it just never shot well for me, so I sold it off. It tumbled about 50% of the time in any 9 mm I tried it in, no matter what I sized it to. I have 9 mm molds from NOE, MP in various weight as well as the Lee 124 gr. TC standard grease groove and they all shoot great.
Lee lube groove boolits don't have enough surface area. Try the heavier one that does not have grooves. Also it is very important to use boolits from range scrap or add enough arsenic and antimony, then "heat treat" them after sizing and coating.
Polygonal 9mm barrels do not like plain hard cast bullets 125gr. .356 diameter. My polygonal barreled Bersa TPR9C hates them but will shoot jacketed/plated and coated bullets of .355-.356 diameter. My standard rifled 9mm barrel pistols will shoot any bullet (jacketed or coated or plain lead) with proper diameter of .355-.356 but they do not like a batch of polymer coated .357 diameter I have so I just use those in my .38Spl. It is possible the TPR9C with its polygonal barrel may like the .357 diameter polymer coat but I would have to try them in it. But my standard rifled 9mm barrels obviously don't like larger .357 diameter bullets. So yes for 9mm barrel types, bullets whether jacketed/plated, coated lead, or plain lead do make a difference as does bullet diameter. Thanks for sharing.
The bullets aren't stabilizing, so my suspicion (on the basis of what I have watched and read on the subject) is that the bullets are not engaging the rifling correctly. I think that it might be worth trying to fire bullets you know work correctly into water, then the ones that don't. Examining the rifling marks and gauging them might tell you something useful.
Is it a polygonal rifling? Stock glocks don't shoot cast lead either until you get a aftermarket conventional rifled barrel. ALL MY CANIKS shoot great with cast lead but some loads more than others( work on the dillion required.).... cast lead projectiles and 2 to 3 thou over to under size.... maybe you finally ran both tolerances to the ragged edge and your limits pushed back. Keep us posted. If you need LMK what load you looking for or send me the components and I'll run them on the 650 and the square deal B, the do a head to head 4 models of caniks is what I own, multi of some models, plus your canik would be a much better test, than a group of 1.
Side note I've tried 4-5 brands of copper platted brands and they all shot LEAPS AND BOUNDS more accurately than cast lead, some loads have no prob hitting silhouettes at 100. Berry's bullets, Montana gold to name a few.
My guess is your canik has slightly slower twist than your glock, so your options would be speed them up so the cast rotates faster or switch the barrel
my Canik Mete likes 124 grain and heavier. I have dealt firearms for 45 years, have had 6 different Caniks out of hundreds of 9mm pistols. Canik is now my favorite semi auto, tied with the CZs. And then when talking wheel guns, my choice has always been Ruger.
The Lee mold that does NOT have lube grooves makes boolits that grab the rifling better. Works great - 1000s of rounds - in the TP9 and SA.
You were one of the guys that inspired me to start casting so no disrespect intended here.
Great channel here Mr. Deuce
Range scrap, cast in the larger 9mm Lee mold, size, powder coat, then "heat treat" 30 minutes, quench. Shoots great in TP9.
1. Mic your bullets and slug your bore Bullet diam needs to be .001" greater than groove diameter. 2. Lead too soft for the pressure of your rounds? Check lead hardness with artists pencils. If so add some antimony or get some linotype and cold water quench your castings.Cut your charge or try slower (lower pressure) powder. 3. If it has polygonal rifling may never be a good cast bullet shooter.(many are not) I always enjoy your postings 👍 DJ
Welcome to the Canik Life
Since delving into PCP rifle shooting, I have learned that barrel twist rate and or vs projectile weight and speed can have massive effect on accuracy and precision. Much more so than powder burners for sure. I'd say that Canick twist rate isn't playing nice. Or maybe the type and depth of the rifling. Etc, etc. It just doesn't like those cast bullets. Or possibly just the weight or shape of them. Find out what it likes that you can reload and shoot those.
I have this same canik rival in FDE and I actually haven’t seen any other person with the FDE rival besides you. Most are grey and gold or just black.
Yep, I wanted something other than another black pistol but really didn't want gold accents. While it was the same price I had to special order the fde one.
I've had the Canik TP9SA for a number of years now, and it's a great cast lead bullet shooter. The only cast bullet that has ever given me a problem in 9 mm is the Lee 124 gr. TC tumble lube bullet, have no idea why it just never shot well for me, so I sold it off. It tumbled about 50% of the time in any 9 mm I tried it in, no matter what I sized it to. I have 9 mm molds from NOE, MP in various weight as well as the Lee 124 gr. TC standard grease groove and they all shoot great.
Lee lube groove boolits don't have enough surface area. Try the heavier one that does not have grooves.
Also it is very important to use boolits from range scrap or add enough arsenic and antimony, then "heat treat" them after sizing and coating.
Great video.
Polygonal 9mm barrels do not like plain hard cast bullets 125gr. .356 diameter. My polygonal barreled Bersa TPR9C hates them but will shoot jacketed/plated and coated bullets of .355-.356 diameter. My standard rifled 9mm barrel pistols will shoot any bullet (jacketed or coated or plain lead) with proper diameter of .355-.356 but they do not like a batch of polymer coated .357 diameter I have so I just use those in my .38Spl. It is possible the TPR9C with its polygonal barrel may like the .357 diameter polymer coat but I would have to try them in it. But my standard rifled 9mm barrels obviously don't like larger .357 diameter bullets. So yes for 9mm barrel types, bullets whether jacketed/plated, coated lead, or plain lead do make a difference as does bullet diameter. Thanks for sharing.
The bullets aren't stabilizing, so my suspicion (on the basis of what I have watched and read on the subject) is that the bullets are not engaging the rifling correctly.
I think that it might be worth trying to fire bullets you know work correctly into water, then the ones that don't. Examining the rifling marks and gauging them might tell you something useful.
I shoot 125gr hardcast semi-wadcutters out of my Canick Mete with no issues. Maybe you need to go with heavier cast bullet?
I got a shadow systems to shoot lead. The barrel leaded so bad its crazy. It sucks cause it the reason I got the thing.
Is it a polygonal rifling? Stock glocks don't shoot cast lead either until you get a aftermarket conventional rifled barrel. ALL MY CANIKS shoot great with cast lead but some loads more than others( work on the dillion required.).... cast lead projectiles and 2 to 3 thou over to under size.... maybe you finally ran both tolerances to the ragged edge and your limits pushed back. Keep us posted. If you need LMK what load you looking for or send me the components and I'll run them on the 650 and the square deal B, the do a head to head 4 models of caniks is what I own, multi of some models, plus your canik would be a much better test, than a group of 1.
Side note I've tried 4-5 brands of copper platted brands and they all shot LEAPS AND BOUNDS more accurately than cast lead, some loads have no prob hitting silhouettes at 100. Berry's bullets, Montana gold to name a few.
My guess is your canik has slightly slower twist than your glock, so your options would be speed them up so the cast rotates faster or switch the barrel
Use round balls...
Solution: GLOCK!
Lol
Sell the canik !