A huge thank You to everyone stopping by. Get your own open ear headphones here: Official Website Link: bit.ly/3AOz7KF (10% discount with the code: deuceandguns ) Amazon Exclusive Discount Link: amzn.to/4gDWBmf
These powders are not dangerous , it’s the people who use them carelessly ! Just like guns are ( Not ) dangerous , it’s the people who use them incorrectly !……… Thanks for bringing this information to new reloaders !…….
Very profound and absolutely correct statement. If they were dangerous, the manufacturers of commercial ammo would not use powder in that burn rate, to load and sell their products. They would not be able to stay in business.
There is no room for "speed" when reloading, period! Progressive presses are inherently dangerous but less time consuming. I've been reloading for over 50 years and can honestly say I've never had a single squib or overcharge after a possible 1,000,000 rounds. It's all about paying attention to each step as you reload.
@@garyh1449 Agreed but it's pretty safe with these pistol cartridges even a double charge usually is not gonna badly injure the shooter while with some rifles it would be similar to a grenade. Light charges can be as dangerous as a double charge on some rifles too.
@@redtra236 rifle rounds are usually pretty full unless using a fast powder with cast boolits and if you get a double charge or hang up you end up with propellant all over the place.
I speed load all the time I use primed brass and an accurate powder measure and produce 500 perfect 9 mm in 40 minutes with zero error. I am highly experienced.
Yes... I have never over-charged with #2. I dont use the other one. I have, however forgot to put the #2 in a 45acp case while using my stainless 45acp revolver. It was fairly obvious to tell there was a serious problem when that shot was fired, because 1. There was no recoil. 2. There was very little sound. 3. There was no new hole in the target. Squib shots in a revolver are VERY DANGEROUS. I have found UNIVERSAL to be a bit "spikey" on pressure. Squib shots are just as dangerous. PAY ATTENTION.
I use progressive to save hand handling each casing. I break my loading up into three stages, decap/resize in step 1, then off press clean/check/prime/powder, finally place/seat/crimp and maybe another crimp. The reason for the off press work is to check/clean primer pocket, check for cracks and splits or gouges. Progressive presses are fantastic simply for the fact you don't have to handle your casings except to dump them into the collator.
@@wdtaut5650 no it’s not I own a Hornady auto progressive loader and if you attempt to double charge the casing, it will lock the press up. It’s just not possible. It’s extremely safe.
I recently picked up a few cans of powder and Titi-group was one of them. After 30 years of reloading with a RCBS Rock Chucker press, I purchased a Hornady A/P progressive press. I have to sit as I run the press and my eyes look down at every piece of brass as I place the bullet on the brass and be sure of the amount of powder. With the Rock Chucker, I worked with a 50 hole tray and after filling each piece of brass with powder, I gently tapped the tray to be sure the powder was level. Then I used a flashlight to be sure every round had the same amount of powder.
Yea fill 50 rounds of brass with the correct powder charge then check all of them then pick one up to seat the bullet and drop it spilling powder in some of the open cases . Then you have to dump the powder back and recharge all the cases ! Resize the case seat the primer bell the case charge with powder ( inspect for correct amount of powder ) then seat bullet . No chance for squib or over charge !……. But what do I know I have only been handloading for 48+ years ………
@@Happy-Honkey First of all I don’t use a progressive loader and secondly some loaders will not accept a powder check die . At the range where I have a range safety officer certification 99 % of squib loads and blow ups are from progressive loaders !…..
They sell a spotlight that mounts on the bottom of the Hornady AP. If you don’t have it, I highly suggest it. You can literally monitor your powder load every single casing. The light is made by horn. I’m not remembering what it’s called right now. It’s on the tip of my tongue but just look up Hornady auto progressive LED light. it is a bunch of LEDs on a strip and then it goes down the side and then up to the top and in circles top it is fantastic💡
I have been loading since 1958 as a boy of eight under the watchful eye of my great uncle. We loaded 45 Colt with black powder using an Ideal/Lyman 310 tool and an Ideal No.5 powder measure. I bought a Lyman Spartan press "kit" in 1960 and began loading 38spl, then in 1962 I bought a Lyman Spar-T turret press. I've been using those presses every since. Combined with a Redding No.1 powder scale and an addition of a Lyman #55 measure with assorted other tools, I've seen no need to change. I visually inspect every case for powder level changes prior to loading. Just one of my many steps to loading correctly. And in 64 years of loading smokeless powder I have never double charged a case nor loaded a squib. I do not care for progressive presses or fancy powder measures. Too many moving parts to suit my tastes. Sure, I'm old school and almost 3/4 of a century old, but I've never blown up a weapon or anything involved with my loading system. My neighbor can't say the same when he blew up a 10mm Glock with a grossly overloaded case of the wrong powder that came off his progressive press. 😏 Appreciate y'all listening to an old-timer. Stay safe and enjoy your time while you can.
I still use bullseye a lot. Still use the old Lyman powder thrower my grandad gave me 30 years ago. Never used a fancy progressive. Never had any problems either
agree single stage reloading is probably safer than a progressive speed loading system. It takes a lot longer but a lot safer. also use a lyman power throw for pistols, but individually for rifle charges. No powder throw for rifle.
I have been a reloading instructor for many-many years. One of the primary rules I insist on is putting the reloading block up with a light behind my shoulder and look over the charged cases. A double charge or squib (light) charge shows quite nicely. This is not possible with a progressive press. I caution any NEW reloader to start their new hobby with a single station press. Virtually everything you've said is true. Mistakes can happen and a progressive press can get a new reloader in trouble real fast.
I started out with a Lee Handloader, loading .44 Mag. somewhere around 1983. I did that for years, then had a Hornady Projector bequeathed to me. Later, I was given a Hornady Pro 7, along with a few other presses. I sold one of those during the 2012 shortage and got almost enough for a new Hornady LnL. After selling off a Lee Pro 1000 (PITA), I had enough for the LnL, which came with 500 jacketed hollowpoint bullets. I have a couple of Lyman turrets, too. I have been fortunate not to have loaded any squibs. Any overcharged rounds have been very apparent. I watch every motion of the machine while loading and check every round coming through before a bullet is placed on the case for seating. Like anything else, you just have to pay close attention. I have 4 progressive presses. Two of the older Hornady's are set up for one dedicated caliber and never changed. The two LnL's are rarely changed. I have enough powder measures for each loading, so those all stay fixed. I check them from time to time, usually before I begin a load session, to make certain nothing has changed. All of my "new" loadings are developed on the turrets.
Please note that Red Dot wasn't designed for pistol loads. It was designed for shotgun loads. I worked at the Kenvil plant for 10 years, until just shortly before it closed.
That is true, but Alliant's own load data page for Red Dot shows a huge list of pistol calibers it's acceptable for. I've never worked in a gun powder plant, but from the published load data I assume there's a ton of overlap between shotshell powder and pistol powder.
@@deuceandguns If you look at the page for Red Dot, handgun loads are a secondary use. As you experienced, bridging is an issue trying to load relatively narrow pistol cartridges, especially on a progressive press. Also, Red Dot develops lower maximum CUP pressures than Bullseye, Unique, or 2400 as well as being slower burning. All advantages for relatively massive shotgun loads, but not so much for common pistol calibers.
I've been reloading for over 65 years and I've used a lot of Red Dot powder. I've only used it for shot shells though. I used to use Accurate #2 often. However, I found #5 was more versatile in .38 spl/.357mag. The most important thing to remember in reloading is to pay attention to what you're doing! If a friend drops by for a chat, stop reloading! After said friend leaves you can pick up where you left off! Most often I will just run the last 3 cartridges through and when the interruption is gone, start out fresh. That way you dont have to try to remember where you were!
Back in the day when I was handholding I would sit there watching TV and drinking beer and smoking cigarettes and I almost exclusively used accurate no 2 but I also had pyrodex for my black powder guns and I never had a problem. No flashes or fires, nothing. Looking back I was the dumbest person alive and I'm lucky to be alive. You could learn a lot from a dummy, don't do what I did. I also used a loading block and only did 50 rounds at a time so I would charge each case from my power measure and not with a charging die which eliminated the chance of double charging. Also I would weigh each round before using the seating die ai also recommend checking at least one in every 10 rounds to verify the accuracy of your power measure because it can vary enough to overcharge especially if you're loading at the highest charge for the powder. Accurate provides an excellent book for free that tells you what the minimum and maximum charge for each round and projectile type you're working with. Along with Lee complete loading kit they turn rocket science into childs play. But can't stress enough to NOT drink, smoke, or have distractions when handloading.
One of the toughest concepts for new reloaders to understand is the "burn rate" of powders and how that makes powders appropriate or not for different calibers. I've always reserved Red Dot, and the other Dots, for shotgun reloading due to the very reason you point out. Shotgun reloaders have much bigger "throats" to drop powder into shotgun shells, so the "bridging" you describe usually isn't a problem. As for Titegroup, most of the Steel and USPSA shooters in my area (Central Florida) use Titegroup for our 9mm competition loads. Good job!
A double charge in 9mm isn’t as bad as Squibb. It’s really hard to put enough propellant in a 9mm to blow up. It’s easy to blow one up if a Squibb is stuck in the bore and a regular round is fired next.
Have been reloading for 48 years. Always on a single stage press. I always check my cases with a flashlight after charging them with powder. No problems in all this time.
There are all kinds of video producers that charge a monthly fee so you can watch without commercials. Pick the ones that you like and send money and watch happily ever after. Don't want people to get paid for their labor? The CCP wants you!
I use unique powder for my pistols when I reload. Thays what i was taught to use when learned how to reload pistol ammo. And i really liked it when I shot when I went to the range and shot my reloads. Now it's the only powder I use. My way of thinking is. If it's not broke don't fix it. Unite worked so that's what I use. Great video. Keep up the good work.
Unique is great. That's why it's called unique. You could load any cartridge slap full of Unique and never blow the gun up. Maybe a Webley or a break top H&R.
Unique is a great powder, it's just dirty.. I haven't loaded it in years, I believe I read it was reformulated and isn't as dirty. Don't quote me I'm not sure about the reformulation..
@@richerich853 I've been using it since it was still Hercules... it's indeed reformulated, but it still smokes a bit, it's still a bit dirty, and it still stinks, but it's still one of the best jack of all trade powders on the market.
Hi Deuce, I have a viewer over at my channel that mentioned this video and how great a job you did on it. I agree. It looks like I didn't leave a comment a month ago when I saw this video so I wanted to do it now. You have some very important information here in this video that I think we can all learn from. Great job and keep up the good work!
now that in a old timer ,old timers used to take cotton and cream of wheat to fill I air gaps . enhancing accuracy. I still do that especially on my ultra reduced center fire pistol and rifle rounds. I've used the single presses over 45years even if I just put powder in case I still look in it to make sure . you can't think of to many safely habits when reloading. papa wishing you well 😊
I'm not sure stuffing was used to "enhance accuracy". It was done when using fast powders in big cases so that the small powder charge would stay back by the primer for good ignition. Sometimes the unburned stuffing would stay in the bbl and reall screw up the accuracy of subsequent shots. I had this problem a few decades ago with Remington .45-70. 305 gr bullets i think. First shot was on target. Second one was close. 3rd was 6" wile (at 100 yds). Looking down the bbl you couldn't see any daylight. A quick run through with a dry wad cleared the unburned stuffing.
I have been reloading since 1980. I have a single stage press. I do one operation/step at a time. I size and decap, flare, prime, add powder, visibly check the powder charge, position the bullet heads in the case, then seat and crimp. I reload 38 special, 9 mm, 44 special and 45 ACP all on a 50 round bullet block. I have used Winchester 231 or HP 38 or Hodgdon Tight group powder on all these loads. I never had a problem with any of these powders because after I put the powder in the cases on the 50 round bullet block I inspect every case to make sure I didn't miss a case or double charge a case. Then I put the bullet head in the case and then seat and crimp the case. I also load 357 magnum and 44 magnum using Alliant 2400 for these calibers. I also load 223 using Hodgdon CFE 223. I've been using this process since 1980 and have NEVER had a double charged case causing damage to my guns or myself or an unpowdered case causing a squib load. The most dangerous part of this process is when you add the gun powder. Always double check the powder charge to be sure it's the proper amount and you won't have a bad day, damage your gun, yourself or anyone around you.
Thank you for bringing this possibility to people's attention. Like others watching; I have personally been reloading over 40 years, for personal use at my weekly range trips, plus commercially years ago for a munitions manufacturer; use of many other shot-shell flake type powders as Red Dot, Green Dot, IMR 700X and other similar on many brands and styles of presses. Dillon, Lyman, Lee, RCBS, Hornady and others, progressive & single stage. All without any such mentioned complication, ever. I personally believe this complication would be due to improper powder measurer/dispenser adjustment, moisture of some sort in the powder measurer, or most of all a Plastic Dispenser Body, used in Cold Weather Without any Ground Wire attached. Cold Weather and Plastic Create a lot of Static Electricity and result in powder "clinging" to certain surface areas. This ground wire, attached to the metal portion of the dispenser body also results in increased accuracy for weight of charge. Try this in cold weather, with and without for proof, worse on some powders than others, depending on shape, size, and coating. It's a shame to trash talk progressive presses, because many do not have funds for a second press down the road, when initial cost is nearly the same for starting set up, with some major brands. If you are not capable of paying attention to your project, remaining sober, or in a hurry---Do Not Reload Ammunitions---Regardless of what Press You choose.
I don’t own or plan on owning a progressive press. I have been reloading for over 50 years and use reloading blocks when reloading. When charging cases i always use a lite shined across the charged cases to see if all charges are equal. I have caught several cases that looked different that were dumped and recharged. I use a couple different powder measures for different cartridges because of powder shape and flow in the measures. All my presses are single operation and I have loaded thousands of rounds when I shot competition and since. Reloading should never be taken lightly or carelessly because your firearm or your well being will depend on it. Enjoy the hobby and be careful.
Reloading 32 years. Never had an issue with a progressive. Stay aware. Double check powder drop accuracy every 10-20 rounds, and run a powder check die. You don’t have to crank rounds out at light speed take your time.
Bullseye and Titegroup are just as likely to overcharge a case as much as Red Dot and Accurate #2. Using Lee scoops, single stage press, turret or progressive any reloader had better keep a CLOSE eye on what they are doing when reloading. Use a flashlight or other light that can enable you to see to the bottom of the case. As extra assurance a marked dowel to check the depth of fill of the case if your press will allow it. I use a single stage press and check the cases when filling and on the block before I press bullets.
You’re absolutely right I’ve been loading bull’s-eye, promo for years with a Dillon progressive press 550. You must look inside the case before advancing to the next cartridge. It’s just a matter of being cautious and not getting into big of a hurry. Been at it for 30 years with no issues. If you’re not being cautious, you can make a mistake on a single stage.
I have used Red Dot in .45 cal and 9mm for years ( over 10,000 rounds) with no issues using a Dillion 450 B press. I have not been aware of these potential issues but will keep them in mind.
I really enjoyed your video. I began reloading on March 28, 1971, just about seven weeks before I turned 13 years old. I've kept all my reloading logbooks and since then, I've stuffed about 1.2 million cases with powder and bullets, so I feel like I've got ample experience. I didn't agree with your warnings on No. 2 initially, but I don't reload on a progressive rig. Where handgun cartridges are concerned, I "batch" load by sizing and flaring a sizable number of cleaned cases and then proceed to prime them with an RCBS hand priming tool. I put the cases away to await the time I will charge them and seat bullets. I charge 100 cases at a time with my RCBS Uniflow powder measure and I can visually inspect each case. Anything that looks askew gets pulled. I'll pour the charge onto my scale to make double certain it's not over- or under-charged (I also randomly check charges with my scale throughout each reloading session, but I have to admit that only two or three times has my Uniflow powder measure ever gotten "screwy" on me during a loading session). My method of loading isn't as slow as you'd think. I can load 200-225 rounds per hour working at a leisurely pace, and at the same time, every case gets at least two more visual AND tactile inspections as I finish my loading process. Trust me, my ammunition is absolutely top notch as far as quality is concerned, and the consistency is unsurpassed. I've tried progressive loading, and still have a Dillon 500 progressive loading setup, but I'm simply not comfortable with all that shit going on ALL AT ONCE. I am fanatical about case inspection and I have to give up three chances to individually see and handle each case as closely as I'd like with a progressive rig. And with my routine, my loads routinely deliver as little as 15 fps in variance from slowest-to-fastest in terms of velocity. I attribute this to the fact that I'm better able to load with more precise consistency than I can with any progressive rig on the market. (And I've considered buying newer, more high-tech setups since I put my Dillon aside. They just don't give me the maniacal amount of control I want. As far as Red Dot is concerned, I wholeheartedly agree. That shit can be dangerous unless you're an observational fanatic like me. However, I gave up on Unique for the same reasons you mentioned. It's filthy, nasty and dirty. And it's a coarse-grained powder. And that's another thing. I avoid ALL coarse grained powders like the plague, I don't care how clean or consistent they may burn. They don't meter worth shit. I love fine grained powders like No. 2 because they meter with mind-numbing consistency. I used to enjoy loading with Hodgdon's HP-38 (which is identical to Winchester 231). However, it's not a finely grained as No. 2 (or No. 5 for that matter), and with their fast burning characteristics, I gave up on them because of pressure concerns when loading with those powders. Here's an interesting and entertaining story about Bullseye and Unique powders. It used to be said that Bullseye was nothing more than what they would sweep up off the floor when the powder mill at the Hercules Company was producing Unique powder. It had some "weight" behind it because Bullseye is such a faster burning powder than Unique. However, Bullseye (then produced in two "flavors:" Bullseye #1 and Bullseye #2) was developed in 1898. Unique didn't come along until 1900. And if you inspect the two powders visually, there's no way Bullseye could be the result of sweeping up the floor during Unique powder production! (My source for this information is from "The Complete Guide to Reloading," 1st Edition, 1937 by Philip B. Sharp, the "co-inventor" of the .357 Magnum. And no, my book is not for sale. I'm subscribing to your channel because I like your style, plus the fact you're one of the few truly intelligent, knowledgeable reloaders I'd consider listening to on this platform. By the way, I'm 66 years old now and still average shooting about 1,000 rounds per month. I'm slowing down in my old age.
Flake powder is for shotshells. When using them for pistols, do these TWO things. 1) Make the amount of powder 55% of case volume. 2) Slow down. Mistakes happen due to "speed" (cutting corners or saving time). Safety takes "a plan", time to execute "the plan", NEVER changing "the plan" during execution!
I've used Red Dot to load 9mm, 38 special (& 12 gauge), w/o any issues. I use a single stage press, weight each powder charge, then insert/seat/crimp the bullet. Yes it's slower than a progressive press, but I like to keep my fingers attached to my hand.
I got into reloading 35 years ago and started with a Lee hand loader doing no more than 100 rounds a night, usually it took three days to do around but when it came to charging the load each round was inspected to make sure it wasn’t double charged and if there was any doubt the powder got dumped and recharged. Check and recheck.
I use acc#2 in 9mm and tt works fine. I get a lot of rounds out of 1 lb of it. I also load with Acc #5 and #7 for higher velocity in the same rounds. It depends on the use of the round. I only load flake powders manually because of the bridging problem. I never had a squib yet and dont want them. Reloading can have its problems, but if you pay attention too what you are doing, you will survive.
I have a subsonic load for 308 and 30-06 that uses Red Dot and it works pretty darn well. Yes, it's a very small powder charge, with a magnum primer but if you are quality minded with your loading, you can be successfull.
Years ago, a gunsmith showed me a 30-30 Marlin that the owner used a full charge of Red Dot instead of the correct rifle powder, I think he said was supposed to be Reloader # 7. the barrel had split and touched off the rounds in the magazine. He lost his hand, btw. Gunsmith noted that the guy's life was probably been saved by the strong Marlin action.
Bullseye was always my go to powder for .45 and i've loaded 10's of thousands of rounds with it, It works for 9mm just as well. However, it is unobtainium nowadays, so i'm using Titegroup and CFE Pistol for most of my pistol calibers. All of these through a Lee Pro 1000. My thought is if you're not paying enough attention to what you're doing to double or triple charge a case, you shouldn't be reloading at all!
@@rokclymer1 IMO: Bullseye is to fast for most 45acp loads. I use a fair amount of 230gr cast lead TCs. My go to powder for that weight is HS-6 is AA#7. 200gr bullets can use something a little faster like UNIVERSAL, or International.
I have been reloading ammo for 55 yrs and have NEVER had a problem. But I am aware of what you are saying about progressive reloaders. The only problems I ever had was as an 18 yo kid dumping my empty cases into my game bag with my ducks. I had a couple of bloopers that dribbled pellets out of the barrel because I didn't check to see if feathers had gotten into the cases and blocked the primer ignition. The problem went away when I kept my cases and ducks separated. I have never used a progressive press and never will. FYI. I have been using some red dot I bought almost 50 yrs ago and stored properly in my 45 acp and 45 colt reduced loads that is still shooting fine.
I have been reloading for 51 years now, and I love it, and I shoot a lot and frequently, and I am a very careful reloader. It is a main hobby of mine. I started out on an RCBS Jr. press and then graduated up to a Dillon 650 progressive press, which I love, in 1995. By the way, that RCBS Jr. press is still with me and in perfect working condition, and has loaded thousands and thousands of rounds, and I love that little press. But my main reason for responding to your video is because of the very important point you have raised about ' fast burn rate ' gun powders. And there are others out there that one has to be careful with due to a possibility to easily double charge a case with. One that comes to mind, and one that I use exclusively just for .45 ACP, is Winchester 231. It is a great powder for .45 and 9mm as well, but because of its burn rate it is very possible to double charge a particular pistol case. However, with all that being said, that is EXACTLY WHY I chose the Dillon 650 press with its separate powder check die, which will give an audible warning alarm should an undercharged OR overcharged case be run into it just prior to going to the next die, which is the bullet seating die. I purchased my 650 in 1995 and it too has reloaded thousands and thousands of rounds very well, and I are love it to pieces !! Anyway, good video !
A beginner has no business with a progressive press. I have been reloading for 45 years and I use a manually indexed turrent and a loading block. Red Dot is my favorite powder. It is easy to check a loading block of charged cases. A double in what I load will overflow or be right up to the mouth.
I have been reloading for almost 40 years and have never created an over loaded cartridge. New hand loaders should keep it simple with a single stage press and take all the time in the world to make sure things are being done correctly. Everyone wants a nice progressive machine but take your time and work up to it. Also don’t be afraid to call the reloading companies because they are there for you to enjoy their products in a safe manner.
I use Titegroup and have been very happy with it. Will never use a progressive press. I weigh out every charge and manually pour it into the case from the scale's funnel. Then I immediately by hand insert a bullet. After I have done that to a batch of 10, I then use the press to seat and crimp. When you reload you TAKE YOUR TIME! Point of interest: I load 5.0 grains of Titegroup into my 9mm rounds that I shoot from a Handgun. Average about 1150 feet per second at 2 yards using a 95 grain cast bullet. I just bought a 9mm Folding Pistol caliber rifle. Tested it the other day shooting the very same ammunition that I just mentioned above. At 2 yards I averaged 1661 feet per second. That longer barrel makes a huge difference. May have to tone down my powder load for the rifle ammunition. Then again maybe 1661 feet per second from a 9mm rifle is ok. Have some research to do.
I've been using both Red Dot and Bullseye since the 60s. Never had an issue, BUT they are "dangerous" in that it is VERY easy to accidentally get a double charge in a case. I use Bullseye, primarily in .38 Special wadcutter target loads. Also in 9mm and .45 ACP target loads. It is THE classic powder for light target loads. Red dot is primarily a shotgun powder for me, for 12 ga./1-1/8 oz. target loads. I have also used it in fireforming cases for .35 Whelen, .35 WCF and .405 WCF. (5 grs. with cornmeal filler and a wax plug 'bullet') When loading handgun rounds with bullseye, I use my circa 1973 Ohaus Du-O-Measure and visually inspect every case in the loading block for correct charge with a bright light. While a double (or even triple) charge WILL fit in the cases, a double charge (or empty case with no powder) is visually noticeable, IF you check. I do not use progressive loaders.
This is my setup for pistol reloading. Three single stage presses in front of me. In my case a Rock Chucker on my left, and two of the cheap single stage presses in the middle, and on the right. In the middle I use the Lee powder thru expander die with Lee funnel. I made my own custom powder dippers by soldering 1/4 " copper tube to various pistol cases, use a file on the mouth and a scale to get the perfect powder charge. Use a Sharpie pen to give each "dipper" a number, and record in a log book the weight of various powders for each dipper. In the log book record your favorite loads. I've used this "system" for nearly 40 years with no problems. Edit- the middle press I seat the primer.
So you've set up an assembly line of single stage presses? I can see the advantages of that setup...and I assume you're using the bullet proof Rock Chucker as the resizing and decaping station.
I think bullseye is older than unique, not sure they’re both old, but good. Aliant still have lots of the original hercules bullseye to use as a reference for new lots.
I have gotten into a little trouble with W231. Great powder! Fine for light loads but also capable of medium power in the .44 Mag. OTOH, after loading up about 1000 240gr SWC at the maximum charge, I learned that in some handguns, they were borderline hot, sticking in the cylinder. I shot what I could and pulled about 600 bullets. Ugh. From now on, I will reserve this fine powder for lighter loads. I have never used a progressive press, but years ago I had a squib (no powder). It could have gone very badly. That is when I changed my process to STRICTLY charge powder into all 50 cases in the block and examine them under a light before seating bullets. Not a problem since then.
I've never used Red Dot or No# 2 AA. I did use # 5 for my .40 S&W. Love it. It's a great powder that got hard to find when I was looking for it. I always heard that Titegroup was the most dangerous. I have used that for 9mm, but I am paranoid doing so. I guess reloading is inherently dangerous if you aren't paying attention.
Only speaking from my personal experience here. I started getting into reloading about 2010 and my caliber of choice was 9mm. A friend gave me an old lee single stage that I rocked for about a year before finding a deal on a lee pro 1000 which I decided to pick up after watching a ton of videos on it. They're finicky, but when you get it figured out and dialed in, they're pretty decent presses. Given my financial situation back then, wish I would've saved some pennies and bought a dillon progressive instead, but I'm workin' with what I've got. I did upgrade away from the powder disk to I believe they called it the "perfect powder drop" which in my experience, with the flake powders like reddot are MUCH more consistent charges. Oddly enough, my first pistol powder (and still today in fact) of choice was Red Dot. Was $16/lb then (jesus I miss those days) and have probably loaded close to 20,000 rounds of fairly low power "economical" 9mm with it. Only issue I ever had was super early, I had a couple squib loads, but was at least smart enough to recognize what the "poof" my pistol made, vs racking the slide and sending another one. Granted, I put a few LED strips on the underside of my turret top so you can very clearly see what is going on, and the amount of red dot I drop is very recognizable vs over/under charge. Also, interesting you recommend Unique powder over red dot. I had go run down to my powder magazine and check that.. poured a bit of unique and reddot out next to each other, and the only difference I can spot is literally the red dots. The flakes look identical between the two, so I'm not sure why Unique would be better suited over reddot for clogging in a powder drop? Interesting.
I have used Unique for many pistol cartridges. It is the dirtiest powder I have used other than black powder. I use 4198 for 45-70 and 43 Spanish cartridges, but the charge is only 27 grains so I have to add white corn grits as filler to keep the small charge at the bottom of the cases, the same as one does with black powder 60 grain loads for my Snider rifle and carbine. It is extra work to do that for smokeless powder, but that is better than a squib load where the charge does not explode and the priming cap sends the bullet only part way into the barrel and you have to clear it with a ramrod..
Self taught reloader. Started with a Rock Chucker. It must have been 30 years old then, that makes it 65 now. Still going strong though I stepped up to a progressive press for pistol calibers. I think of Red Dot as a shotgun only powder. .45 is W231, 9mm is unique, .357 is H110 or W296.
On my progressive and on my turret press, I use an endoscope (tiny camera) pointing at the case. I view it on my smartphone zoomed in. It's a great way to see the powder level close up for me. And I of course agree with those high density powders. It can be all too easy to double charge. Years ago I switched from Titegroup to Hodgdon Universal for that reason. They are both great powders though.
@@deuceandguns cheap too! Only around 20 bucks on Amazon. For every cycle of the Hornady progressive, I say to myself as i check the various stations: Primer, Powder, Bullet, Case. Saying those words aloud make it a little slower than if i did not, but my safety (and those around me at the range) is worth the extra time.
I've been using a Lee Pro1000 press to bulk load 5.56 and 300blackout. I do it in 2 stages though. I de-prime, size and trim the brass first (Dillon press mounted trimmer). I clean off the case lube then de-crimp the primer pockets, take the edge off the trimmed case mouth, and prime off press. Next I charge , powder check, and seat on the press. I prep my brass in lots of 5000+ and load four or five hundred at a time as needed. It is pretty consistent that way. I will trim multi fired brass after 5 reloads. All other rifle is done on a single stage. I don't have to trim and de-crimp primer pockets when I load multi fired brass but I still size, clean off lube, and prime off press.
@moushunter IN all my years loading, the tool I like the best is a Sheridan Cutout Guage!!! It will tell you when you need to trim & quality of finished load!!! The cutout shows you everything!! Used chamber guages for years, the cutout makes it so much more useful!!! I encourage you to pick one up for all chamberings!! Best $35 you'll ever spend!!
I’ve been reloading for a lot of years and knock on wood the worst thing that’s happened to me is not having a primer in a case. One of the items I bought years ago is an RCBS powder lock out die. This die will not only tell you if a case doesn’t have powder in it, but it will tell you if you have thrown an over charge of powder. I liked die so much that I bought several for different calibers. If you hand load with a progressive press I strongly suggest you add one of these dies to your press. RH
Good call-outs. I use Red Dot for 12ga grouse loads as well as 45 acp, but not in a progressive press. The worst thing I have experienced with Red Dot is how it smells when it burns. Ugh. I got a TON of information and advice from this channel when I was first stepping into reloading. Thank you for the consistently good information presented very clearly. The signal-to-noise ratio here is outstanding.
Friend of mine set me up. Recommended unique to start for 9 and 4350 for 30 06. Never had an issue. Have a redding t7 that is great. Scale is an old m7 that weighs everything. I take reloading as a process, not a means to an end.
None of these sketch powders are a match for the Lee Auto drums I use. Mine will throw red dot 700x 800x and even trailboss down to a tenth all day long. For my progressive press I use a powder cop on my Dillon xl650 and I use a bore scope tied to a old phone for checking my drops on my classic turret presses. When I first started loading I used a rockchucker single stage and charged 50 cases at a time in a hornady loading block. It's pretty easy to see if something is off when You have 50 charged cases sitting in front of you. Easy to dump and check if you have your beam scale setup and ready to verify. Check check and double check. When in doubt.. Dump it out and drop another.
I upgraded from the Lee auto disc to the auto drum last year and I agree it's a big improvement...Except for H110 powder. My auto drum leaks H110 and only H110 like a sieve.
@@deuceandguns Do you have some of the early auto drums? The early ones had an issue with the super fine powders but the later style cartridges with the newer wiper run h110 and 296 without much issue. Check with LEE and see if you can get the newest powder drop cartridges. I have one surper early autodrum and it for sure spits a bit but it's light years better than my perfect powder measures I have laying around.
WHAT?! They have a wiper version now? I guess I'll be upgrading that next week. Thank you for the info, I try to stay on top of everything new in the firearms community, but some things do slip by on occasion.
First powder I loaded with was W231 for 9MM and it was some pretty hot ammo. Magnum pistol primers on, I think, 3 grains of W231. The primer had a good amount of cratering out of the carbine I owned. Needless to say in the half decade since, I have gotten much better at hand loading
Accurate #2 gives me inconsistent burns with light to medium loads. Small primer 45acp but also 380acp. Haven’t tried with large primers. Went back to Titegroup and am using up the #2 for heavy 380 only. I would say a medium Titegroup is equivalent to a full #2 in a 380 loading.
The danger you describe for (not only!!) new reloaders using powders like Accurate No 2 are not limited to any brand of gun powder. The exact same problems can arise with any brand very fast burning powder, such as Vihta/Kemira N310, Vectan BA10 etc....
I just use a single stage press. Use powder and bullet combos that have a high percentage of fill and always visuallly check my tray of primed and filled cases with a flashlight before seating bullets.
When I first started reloading I used Trail Boss because it is so bulky that it makes it impossible to double charge. Too bad you can't find it any more.
I hope it comes back. It's one of the best choices for new reloaders. Maybe they adjusted the formula so that it can stand up to a little bit of compression.@@deuceandguns
I love Longshot for 9mm. It's very forgiving with a wide charge window and you get amazing velocities with safe pressure. You also can't possibly double charge it
I mounted a shell-holder to my press: the shell in the holder had a properly weighed powder charge and was a visual reference for each shell as I loaded. 12,000+ rounds of .357 loaded, zero errors. Yeah, it was kinda slow.
I have used almost all the powders you showed except maybe unique and many others with no issues. I found tight group to be better for small loads such as 380 and PB to be dirty. I now use slightly slower powders such as CFE pistol and AUTOCOMP. I no longer load 380, I load 9MM, 40SW 10MM.
Depending on what your case/caliber is, there are other powders that can fit more than one charge in a case. 357 Magnum comes to mind with Bullseye. I’ve loaded a few thousand rounds of 357 with bullseye over more years than I care to admit, and when I’m working a charge that a double would push beyond the published max loads, I’ll pour two sample cases just for safety sake and observation. Case #1 is a normal load and Case #2 is an intentional double. Place the two cases next to one another in my loading block and look at the relative height just to make the double load stand out in my mind. I’ve never loaded 44 mag, but I would expect it to be another one that could fit a double load of bullseye in the case. My point is, be careful and think about ways to prevent mistakes before they happen.
You were doing fine to you mentioned Bullseye. It is as easy as the Acura # 2 to double charge many cases with it. It only takes a small amount of Bullseye for many loads. For most of my reloads I use a powder that takes up most of the volume of the case. Using a Dillon 550B it is easy to see the potential double charge spill the powder out.
Use alliant 2400 for my .357 mag loads and W231 for 38 spl. Both work very well for what I want in both handgun and loads for my Winchester "73". That said, I still load all my cases on a single stage press, following a specific process in every attempt to avoid a double charge. So far, still have all my fingers and eyes...
Red Dot is excellent for shotshell reloading (primary use). I myself prefer “pistol type” powders for the exact safety reasons expressed in this video. Unique is tried and true old school ; I find myself having good success with Hodgon CFE Pistol as my all around 9mm and .45 ACP loadings. Great video ; was fun to watch
I do not reload with just price in mind. My number 1 is accuracy followed by value of the round. All my powder is weighed by an automatic powder scale. About every 10th charge I do a second check with a backup scale. I manually charge my loads and then place the brass in a reloading tray before transferring them to my turret press so there is no possible of double charging the round. Before seating the bullet if there is any question at all about the load I dump it out and start over again. I do not see slowing down the process as a detriment since I don’t end up with either a squib load or a double load. As far as I’m concerned my biggest hassle is finding my brand of primers and powder locally as I refuse to pay HazMat and shipping charges.
In the 70s it was called the 2.5 bullseye suprise. I stick with unique ot tight group for mild loads. H 414 has also been sighted for pressure excursions in hot weather.
I suggest a a powder like CFE Pistol. Can be used for almost any pistol round out there, and will deliver some of the highest velocities in pistol sans subcompact, and snubbies. Always use a powder cop to visual check your loads before the bullet is placed into the brass. First couple of sessions for a newbie might be a good idea to tare your powder scale with a KNOWN good round, and weight the rounds when they drop, or load 20, and weigh them quickly together. I do use titegroup quite a bit for my 32 wadcutter loads for a snubbie, and 32 ACP, and it is an economical powder to use.
I always tell new reloaders to start with rifle because you can't double charge the case. I was taught 35 years ago that any of the dot powders were for shot shells only
I never made a mistake with a single stage press. When I got a turret press with a powder dispenser die, I got squib loads because humidity caused powder to clump in the machine. I learned a lot of good lessons, but I could have done without the mistakes.
It's so odd how regional our powder availability is. In my area, if I didn't develop a pistol load using Bullseye and a rifle load using Reloader 15 I simply couldn't reload without trying to buy powder online.
One of the first rules of thumb for reloading: if you have any questions about a powder load, always dump and repour. Accurate No.2 is a fantastic powder. Get a good measure. Take your time. And the results will speak for themselves.
After 56 years of handloading experience. Always stack things in your favor to be as mistake free as possible. Use powders that meter easily through a powder measure and have a 50% loading density or higher for starters. I could go on and on of this subject matter.
When I started reloading, I decided to seat the bullet immediately after dropping the powder. I get the cases cleaned, resized, primed, and expanded, so I have a tray that's ready for powder and bullet. I haven't had any charge issues from that process.
i use a powder measure and i have found after you load a few cases with bullseye the powder packs and you get a heavyer charge.i weigh every tenth charge better to be safe than sorry.
Ramshot blue dot is same thing , very fine powder very easy to double load when u don't pay attention , I use it to loadbmy 5.7x28 subsonic, it only needs 2.5 grains for 55 fmg , that's a tiny load , and it ignites with no issues
Winchester 231 is another option that I’ve come around to. It is flaky but probably a little volume per charge. Admittedly, I’m not sure as Ive never used red dot or AA 2. Autocomp is a ball that’s more forgiving and boasts a 4-5 gn charge weight in 9mm, which presumably would address the problems you highlighted in your video.
I loaded some 9mm with a progressive loader and it only dispensed a very small amount of powder so the bullet got stuck 3 quarter down the barrel so bad things can happen be extremely careful
I have used tried several powder for my gamer 9mm loads. Accurate #2 is ok. A tad messy. I haven’t ever had any problems loading it. But I have used many pounds of tite group and like it best so far. Fairly cheap and easy to come by. And meters very well. I bought a 7 stage progressive press right out of the gate. I am mechanically inclined so I knew it wouldn’t be an issue. I installed an RCBS lock out die from day 1. To mitigate human error. Cheap and passive protection.
I use red dot for 12 gauge, and large case handgun calibers. 45 colt, 44-40, 44 special. That said, I have a led light in my progressive press for looking at every round. For my single stage press, I refuse to use the loading block method of charging a large number of rounds with powder before seating the bullets. Instead, I mount a powder drop near the press, and only load powder into one cartridge case at a time. The case doesn't leave my hand until a bullet is set and it's in the press for seating and crimping.
Ran pro press's(Lee) for years saw to many mistakes, switched to a cast-iron single breech-loc with better results, slower yes but more peace of mind, having redundancy checks(I do three to four ) in powder charging is most important.
![Chris Langan - The Interview THEY Didn't Want You To See - CTMU [Full Version; Timestamps]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9miVG2xT5jY/mqdefault.jpg)
A huge thank You to everyone stopping by. Get your own open ear headphones here:
Official Website Link: bit.ly/3AOz7KF (10% discount with the code: deuceandguns )
Amazon Exclusive Discount Link: amzn.to/4gDWBmf
These powders are not dangerous , it’s the people who use them carelessly ! Just like guns are ( Not ) dangerous , it’s the people who use them incorrectly !……… Thanks for bringing this information to new reloaders !…….
Very profound and absolutely correct statement. If they were dangerous, the manufacturers of commercial ammo would not use powder in that burn rate, to load and sell their products. They would not be able to stay in business.
Absolutely the best statement. I’ve always said it’s not the tool that is dangerous . It’s said idiot using the tool that is the danger .
There is no room for "speed" when reloading, period! Progressive presses are inherently dangerous but less time consuming. I've been reloading for over 50 years and can honestly say I've never had a single squib or overcharge after a possible 1,000,000 rounds. It's all about paying attention to each step as you reload.
I agree 100%. I load on a single stage press. I don't rely on the powder measure; I weigh every charge. Rather be safe than sorry.
@@garyh1449 Agreed but it's pretty safe with these pistol cartridges even a double charge usually is not gonna badly injure the shooter while with some rifles it would be similar to a grenade. Light charges can be as dangerous as a double charge on some rifles too.
@@redtra236 rifle rounds are usually pretty full unless using a fast powder with cast boolits and if you get a double charge or hang up you end up with propellant all over the place.
I speed load all the time I use primed brass and an accurate powder measure and produce 500 perfect 9 mm in 40 minutes with zero error. I am highly experienced.
Yes...
I have never over-charged with #2. I dont use the other one.
I have, however forgot to put the #2 in a 45acp case while using my stainless 45acp revolver. It was fairly obvious to tell there was a serious problem when that shot was fired, because 1. There was no recoil. 2. There was very little sound. 3. There was no new hole in the target. Squib shots in a revolver are VERY DANGEROUS.
I have found UNIVERSAL to be a bit "spikey" on pressure.
Squib shots are just as dangerous.
PAY ATTENTION.
Use a single stage press, double check your powder every case, and you will "save face"
@2at1tony I check every round on my progressive setups with zero problems over decades. This includes tens of thousands of .50BMG.
Yep, sounds like the problem might be the progressive loader.
@@wdtaut5650 Nope. The problem is being hasty and not being careful.
I use progressive to save hand handling each casing. I break my loading up into three stages, decap/resize in step 1, then off press clean/check/prime/powder, finally place/seat/crimp and maybe another crimp. The reason for the off press work is to check/clean primer pocket, check for cracks and splits or gouges. Progressive presses are fantastic simply for the fact you don't have to handle your casings except to dump them into the collator.
@@wdtaut5650 no it’s not I own a Hornady auto progressive loader and if you attempt to double charge the casing, it will lock the press up. It’s just not possible. It’s extremely safe.
I recently picked up a few cans of powder and Titi-group was one of them. After 30 years of reloading with a RCBS Rock Chucker press, I purchased a Hornady A/P progressive press. I have to sit as I run the press and my eyes look down at every piece of brass as I place the bullet on the brass and be sure of the amount of powder. With the Rock Chucker, I worked with a 50 hole tray and after filling each piece of brass with powder, I gently tapped the tray to be sure the powder was level. Then I used a flashlight to be sure every round had the same amount of powder.
Yea fill 50 rounds of brass with the correct powder charge then check all of them then pick one up to seat the bullet and drop it spilling powder in some of the open cases . Then you have to dump the powder back and recharge all the cases ! Resize the case seat the primer bell the case charge with powder ( inspect for correct amount of powder ) then seat bullet . No chance for squib or over charge !……. But what do I know I have only been handloading for 48+ years ………
Why not just use a powder check die?
@@Happy-Honkey First of all I don’t use a progressive loader and secondly some loaders will not accept a powder check die . At the range where I have a range safety officer certification 99 % of squib loads and blow ups are from progressive loaders !…..
They sell a spotlight that mounts on the bottom of the Hornady AP. If you don’t have it, I highly suggest it. You can literally monitor your powder load every single casing. The light is made by horn. I’m not remembering what it’s called right now. It’s on the tip of my tongue but just look up Hornady auto progressive LED light. it is a bunch of LEDs on a strip and then it goes down the side and then up to the top and in circles top it is fantastic💡
I also look in every one of
I have been loading since 1958 as a boy of eight under the watchful eye of my great uncle. We loaded 45 Colt with black powder using an Ideal/Lyman 310 tool and an Ideal No.5 powder measure. I bought a Lyman Spartan press "kit" in 1960 and began loading 38spl, then in 1962 I bought a Lyman Spar-T turret press. I've been using those presses every since. Combined with a Redding No.1 powder scale and an addition of a Lyman #55 measure with assorted other tools, I've seen no need to change. I visually inspect every case for powder level changes prior to loading. Just one of my many steps to loading correctly. And in 64 years of loading smokeless powder I have never double charged a case nor loaded a squib.
I do not care for progressive presses or fancy powder measures. Too many moving parts to suit my tastes. Sure, I'm old school and almost 3/4 of a century old, but I've never blown up a weapon or anything involved with my loading system.
My neighbor can't say the same when he blew up a 10mm Glock with a grossly overloaded case of the wrong powder that came off his progressive press. 😏
Appreciate y'all listening to an old-timer. Stay safe and enjoy your time while you can.
You're a better man than I am, Charlie Brown. Respect.
I still use bullseye a lot. Still use the old Lyman powder thrower my grandad gave me 30 years ago. Never used a fancy progressive. Never had any problems either
agree single stage reloading is probably safer than a progressive speed loading system. It takes a lot longer but a lot safer. also use a lyman power throw for pistols, but individually for rifle charges. No powder throw for rifle.
I have been a reloading instructor for many-many years. One of the primary rules I insist on is putting the reloading block up with a light behind my shoulder and look over the charged cases. A double charge or squib (light) charge shows quite nicely. This is not possible with a progressive press. I caution any NEW reloader to start their new hobby with a single station press. Virtually everything you've said is true. Mistakes can happen and a progressive press can get a new reloader in trouble real fast.
Sadly that's a bit more difficult using low quantity fast powders. Bullseye used to be the one that you had to look out for.
I started out with a Lee Handloader, loading .44 Mag. somewhere around 1983. I did that for years, then had a Hornady Projector bequeathed to me. Later, I was given a Hornady Pro 7, along with a few other presses. I sold one of those during the 2012 shortage and got almost enough for a new Hornady LnL. After selling off a Lee Pro 1000 (PITA), I had enough for the LnL, which came with 500 jacketed hollowpoint bullets. I have a couple of Lyman turrets, too. I have been fortunate not to have loaded any squibs. Any overcharged rounds have been very apparent. I watch every motion of the machine while loading and check every round coming through before a bullet is placed on the case for seating. Like anything else, you just have to pay close attention.
I have 4 progressive presses. Two of the older Hornady's are set up for one dedicated caliber and never changed. The two LnL's are rarely changed. I have enough powder measures for each loading, so those all stay fixed. I check them from time to time, usually before I begin a load session, to make certain nothing has changed. All of my "new" loadings are developed on the turrets.
I started with the classic lee loader to get my feet wet. Very nifty little gadget and very easy to inspect each charge 🙂
@RespectTheChemistry
Is that one of the original type where you bring your own hammer?
@@battalion151R is that a bit of sarcasm or are you that new and uniformed????
Please note that Red Dot wasn't designed for pistol loads. It was designed for shotgun loads. I worked at the Kenvil plant for 10 years, until just shortly before it closed.
That is true, but Alliant's own load data page for Red Dot shows a huge list of pistol calibers it's acceptable for. I've never worked in a gun powder plant, but from the published load data I assume there's a ton of overlap between shotshell powder and pistol powder.
@@deuceandguns If you look at the page for Red Dot, handgun loads are a secondary use. As you experienced, bridging is an issue trying to load relatively narrow pistol cartridges, especially on a progressive press. Also, Red Dot develops lower maximum CUP pressures than Bullseye, Unique, or 2400 as well as being slower burning. All advantages for relatively massive shotgun loads, but not so much for common pistol calibers.
red dot makes the best trap loads love it
I've been reloading for over 65 years and I've used a lot of Red Dot powder. I've only used it for shot shells though. I used to use Accurate #2 often. However, I found #5 was more versatile in .38 spl/.357mag. The most important thing to remember in reloading is to pay attention to what you're doing! If a friend drops by for a chat, stop reloading! After said friend leaves you can pick up where you left off! Most often I will just run the last 3 cartridges through and when the interruption is gone, start out fresh. That way you dont have to try to remember where you were!
Back in the day when I was handholding I would sit there watching TV and drinking beer and smoking cigarettes and I almost exclusively used accurate no 2 but I also had pyrodex for my black powder guns and I never had a problem. No flashes or fires, nothing. Looking back I was the dumbest person alive and I'm lucky to be alive. You could learn a lot from a dummy, don't do what I did. I also used a loading block and only did 50 rounds at a time so I would charge each case from my power measure and not with a charging die which eliminated the chance of double charging. Also I would weigh each round before using the seating die ai also recommend checking at least one in every 10 rounds to verify the accuracy of your power measure because it can vary enough to overcharge especially if you're loading at the highest charge for the powder. Accurate provides an excellent book for free that tells you what the minimum and maximum charge for each round and projectile type you're working with. Along with Lee complete loading kit they turn rocket science into childs play. But can't stress enough to NOT drink, smoke, or have distractions when handloading.
One of the toughest concepts for new reloaders to understand is the "burn rate" of powders and how that makes powders appropriate or not for different calibers. I've always reserved Red Dot, and the other Dots, for shotgun reloading due to the very reason you point out. Shotgun reloaders have much bigger "throats" to drop powder into shotgun shells, so the "bridging" you describe usually isn't a problem. As for Titegroup, most of the Steel and USPSA shooters in my area (Central Florida) use Titegroup for our 9mm competition loads. Good job!
A double charge in 9mm isn’t as bad as Squibb. It’s really hard to put enough propellant in a 9mm to blow up. It’s easy to blow one up if a Squibb is stuck in the bore and a regular round is fired next.
A squib load will not eject the Brass and most people with common sense will check their barrel after it sounds like a 22 in their 9 mm.
@@artifacthunter1472 seen it happen, you would be surprised.
@@artifacthunter1472 keep in mind that shooting has exploded in popularity the past 10 15 years. Most people don’t have 30 years of experience.
@@artifacthunter1472 common sense. now there's a statement.
Wrong.
Have been reloading for 48 years. Always on a single stage press. I always check my cases with a flashlight after charging them with powder. No problems in all this time.
Exactly, common sense.
Funny thing happened to me today. I clicked on a gunpowder RUclips video and a 3 min commercial for some stupid earbuds popped up.
You know you can skip ahead right? Haha, but yeah I know what you mean.
At least it didn’t have a long intro as well.
Atleast it wasn’t a camel toe harris ad.
Due to the nature of my videos, RUclips has demonetized most of my channel. I have to at least break even on my work.
There are all kinds of video producers that charge a monthly fee so you can watch without commercials. Pick the ones that you like and send money and watch happily ever after. Don't want people to get paid for their labor? The CCP wants you!
I use unique powder for my pistols when I reload. Thays what i was taught to use when learned how to reload pistol ammo. And i really liked it when I shot when I went to the range and shot my reloads. Now it's the only powder I use. My way of thinking is. If it's not broke don't fix it. Unite worked so that's what I use. Great video. Keep up the good work.
Unique is great. That's why it's called unique. You could load any cartridge slap full of Unique and never blow the gun up. Maybe a Webley or a break top H&R.
Unique is a great powder, it's just dirty.. I haven't loaded it in years, I believe I read it was reformulated and isn't as dirty. Don't quote me I'm not sure about the reformulation..
@@richerich853 I've been using it since it was still Hercules... it's indeed reformulated, but it still smokes a bit, it's still a bit dirty, and it still stinks, but it's still one of the best jack of all trade powders on the market.
Hi Deuce, I have a viewer over at my channel that mentioned this video and how great a job you did on it. I agree. It looks like I didn't leave a comment a month ago when I saw this video so I wanted to do it now. You have some very important information here in this video that I think we can all learn from. Great job and keep up the good work!
now that in a old timer ,old timers used to take cotton and cream of wheat to fill I air gaps . enhancing accuracy. I still do that especially on my ultra reduced center fire pistol and rifle rounds. I've used the single presses over 45years even if I just put powder in case I still look in it to make sure . you can't think of to many safely habits when reloading. papa wishing you well 😊
I'm not sure stuffing was used to "enhance accuracy". It was done when using fast powders in big cases so that the small powder charge would stay back by the primer for good ignition. Sometimes the unburned stuffing would stay in the bbl and reall screw up the accuracy of subsequent shots. I had this problem a few decades ago with Remington .45-70. 305 gr bullets i think. First shot was on target. Second one was close. 3rd was 6" wile (at 100 yds). Looking down the bbl you couldn't see any daylight. A quick run through with a dry wad cleared the unburned stuffing.
I have been reloading since 1980. I have a single stage press. I do one operation/step at a time. I size and decap, flare, prime, add powder, visibly check the powder charge, position the bullet heads in the case, then seat and crimp. I reload 38 special, 9 mm, 44 special and 45 ACP all on a 50 round bullet block. I have used Winchester 231 or HP 38 or Hodgdon Tight group powder on all these loads. I never had a problem with any of these powders because after I put the powder in the cases on the 50 round bullet block I inspect every case to make sure I didn't miss a case or double charge a case. Then I put the bullet head in the case and then seat and crimp the case. I also load 357 magnum and 44 magnum using Alliant 2400 for these calibers. I also load 223 using Hodgdon CFE 223. I've been using this process since 1980 and have NEVER had a double charged case causing damage to my guns or myself or an unpowdered case causing a squib load. The most dangerous part of this process is when you add the gun powder. Always double check the powder charge to be sure it's the proper amount and you won't have a bad day, damage your gun, yourself or anyone around you.
Thank you for bringing this possibility to people's attention. Like others watching; I have personally been reloading over 40 years, for personal use at my weekly range trips, plus commercially years ago for a munitions manufacturer; use of many other shot-shell flake type powders as Red Dot, Green Dot, IMR 700X and other similar on many brands and styles of presses. Dillon, Lyman, Lee, RCBS, Hornady and others, progressive & single stage. All without any such mentioned complication, ever. I personally believe this complication would be due to improper powder measurer/dispenser adjustment, moisture of some sort in the powder measurer, or most of all a Plastic Dispenser Body, used in Cold Weather Without any Ground Wire attached. Cold Weather and Plastic Create a lot of Static Electricity and result in powder "clinging" to certain surface areas. This ground wire, attached to the metal portion of the dispenser body also results in increased accuracy for weight of charge. Try this in cold weather, with and without for proof, worse on some powders than others, depending on shape, size, and coating. It's a shame to trash talk progressive presses, because many do not have funds for a second press down the road, when initial cost is nearly the same for starting set up, with some major brands. If you are not capable of paying attention to your project, remaining sober, or in a hurry---Do Not Reload Ammunitions---Regardless of what Press You choose.
I don’t own or plan on owning a progressive press. I have been reloading for over 50 years and use reloading blocks when reloading. When charging cases i always use a lite shined across the charged cases to see if all charges are equal. I have caught several cases that looked different that were dumped and recharged. I use a couple different powder measures for different cartridges because of powder shape and flow in the measures. All my presses are single operation and I have loaded thousands of rounds when I shot competition and since. Reloading should never be taken lightly or carelessly because your firearm or your well being will depend on it. Enjoy the hobby and be careful.
another good reason to stick with a single stage press
Reloading 32 years. Never had an issue with a progressive. Stay aware. Double check powder drop accuracy every 10-20 rounds, and run a powder check die. You don’t have to crank rounds out at light speed take your time.
Bullseye and Titegroup are just as likely to overcharge a case as much as Red Dot and Accurate #2. Using Lee scoops, single stage press, turret or progressive any reloader had better keep a CLOSE eye on what they are doing when reloading. Use a flashlight or other light that can enable you to see to the bottom of the case. As extra assurance a marked dowel to check the depth of fill of the case if your press will allow it. I use a single stage press and check the cases when filling and on the block before I press bullets.
Tight group is completely different and can be used in reduced loads for rifles as can unique.
I like titegroup.
You’re absolutely right I’ve been loading bull’s-eye, promo for years with a Dillon progressive press 550. You must look inside the case before advancing to the next cartridge. It’s just a matter of being cautious and not getting into big of a hurry. Been at it for 30 years with no issues. If you’re not being cautious, you can make a mistake on a single stage.
I have used Red Dot in .45 cal and 9mm for years ( over 10,000 rounds) with no issues using a Dillion 450 B press. I have not been aware of these potential issues but will keep them in mind.
I really enjoyed your video. I began reloading on March 28, 1971, just about seven weeks before I turned 13 years old. I've kept all my reloading logbooks and since then, I've stuffed about 1.2 million cases with powder and bullets, so I feel like I've got ample experience. I didn't agree with your warnings on No. 2 initially, but I don't reload on a progressive rig. Where handgun cartridges are concerned, I "batch" load by sizing and flaring a sizable number of cleaned cases and then proceed to prime them with an RCBS hand priming tool. I put the cases away to await the time I will charge them and seat bullets. I charge 100 cases at a time with my RCBS Uniflow powder measure and I can visually inspect each case. Anything that looks askew gets pulled. I'll pour the charge onto my scale to make double certain it's not over- or under-charged (I also randomly check charges with my scale throughout each reloading session, but I have to admit that only two or three times has my Uniflow powder measure ever gotten "screwy" on me during a loading session). My method of loading isn't as slow as you'd think. I can load 200-225 rounds per hour working at a leisurely pace, and at the same time, every case gets at least two more visual AND tactile inspections as I finish my loading process. Trust me, my ammunition is absolutely top notch as far as quality is concerned, and the consistency is unsurpassed.
I've tried progressive loading, and still have a Dillon 500 progressive loading setup, but I'm simply not comfortable with all that shit going on ALL AT ONCE. I am fanatical about case inspection and I have to give up three chances to individually see and handle each case as closely as I'd like with a progressive rig. And with my routine, my loads routinely deliver as little as 15 fps in variance from slowest-to-fastest in terms of velocity. I attribute this to the fact that I'm better able to load with more precise consistency than I can with any progressive rig on the market. (And I've considered buying newer, more high-tech setups since I put my Dillon aside. They just don't give me the maniacal amount of control I want.
As far as Red Dot is concerned, I wholeheartedly agree. That shit can be dangerous unless you're an observational fanatic like me. However, I gave up on Unique for the same reasons you mentioned. It's filthy, nasty and dirty. And it's a coarse-grained powder. And that's another thing. I avoid ALL coarse grained powders like the plague, I don't care how clean or consistent they may burn. They don't meter worth shit. I love fine grained powders like No. 2 because they meter with mind-numbing consistency. I used to enjoy loading with Hodgdon's HP-38 (which is identical to Winchester 231). However, it's not a finely grained as No. 2 (or No. 5 for that matter), and with their fast burning characteristics, I gave up on them because of pressure concerns when loading with those powders.
Here's an interesting and entertaining story about Bullseye and Unique powders. It used to be said that Bullseye was nothing more than what they would sweep up off the floor when the powder mill at the Hercules Company was producing Unique powder. It had some "weight" behind it because Bullseye is such a faster burning powder than Unique. However, Bullseye (then produced in two "flavors:" Bullseye #1 and Bullseye #2) was developed in 1898. Unique didn't come along until 1900. And if you inspect the two powders visually, there's no way Bullseye could be the result of sweeping up the floor during Unique powder production! (My source for this information is from "The Complete Guide to Reloading," 1st Edition, 1937 by Philip B. Sharp, the "co-inventor" of the .357 Magnum. And no, my book is not for sale.
I'm subscribing to your channel because I like your style, plus the fact you're one of the few truly intelligent, knowledgeable reloaders I'd consider listening to on this platform.
By the way, I'm 66 years old now and still average shooting about 1,000 rounds per month. I'm slowing down in my old age.
Flake powder is for shotshells. When using them for pistols, do these TWO things. 1) Make the amount of powder 55% of case volume. 2) Slow down. Mistakes happen due to "speed" (cutting corners or saving time). Safety takes "a plan", time to execute "the plan", NEVER changing "the plan" during execution!
My 38 special target load is 148 gr double ended wad cutters over 3 gr of Red Dot.
Me to its the most accurate load I have found for that bullet, red dot is fantastic in 45 acp as well , its just a very hard powder to find
I use 2.8 grains of Rd work's great and super accurate
I've used Red Dot to load 9mm, 38 special (& 12 gauge), w/o any issues. I use a single stage press, weight each powder charge, then insert/seat/crimp the bullet. Yes it's slower than a progressive press, but I like to keep my fingers attached to my hand.
I got into reloading 35 years ago and started with a Lee hand loader doing no more than 100 rounds a night, usually it took three days to do around but when it came to charging the load each round was inspected to make sure it wasn’t double charged and if there was any doubt the powder got dumped and recharged. Check and recheck.
I use acc#2 in 9mm and tt works fine. I get a lot of rounds out of 1 lb of it.
I also load with Acc #5 and #7 for higher velocity in the same rounds. It depends on the use of the round. I only load flake powders manually because of the bridging problem. I never had a squib yet and dont want them. Reloading can have its problems, but if you pay attention too what you are doing, you will survive.
How high you talking. I load aa7 on top of a 9mm 115 with 8.6 grains….. 172 power factor in my race gun…
Always enjoy and appreciate your videos. Please dont stop anytime soon.
@joshuagibson2520 Thanks for stopping by. I have no plans of ever stopping but sometimes my real job does make me skip a week or two of uploads.
I have a subsonic load for 308 and 30-06 that uses Red Dot and it works pretty darn well. Yes, it's a very small powder charge, with a magnum primer but if you are quality minded with your loading, you can be successfull.
Years ago, a gunsmith showed me a 30-30 Marlin that the owner used a full charge of Red Dot instead of the correct rifle powder, I think he said was supposed to be Reloader # 7. the barrel had split and touched off the rounds in the magazine. He lost his hand, btw. Gunsmith noted that the guy's life was probably been saved by the strong Marlin action.
Bullseye was always my go to powder for .45 and i've loaded 10's of thousands of rounds with it, It works for 9mm just as well. However, it is unobtainium nowadays, so i'm using Titegroup and CFE Pistol for most of my pistol calibers. All of these through a Lee Pro 1000. My thought is if you're not paying enough attention to what you're doing to double or triple charge a case, you shouldn't be reloading at all!
@@rokclymer1 IMO: Bullseye is to fast for most 45acp loads. I use a fair amount of 230gr cast lead TCs.
My go to powder for that weight is HS-6 is AA#7.
200gr bullets can use something a little faster like UNIVERSAL, or International.
I have been reloading ammo for 55 yrs and have NEVER had a problem. But I am aware of what you are saying about progressive reloaders. The only problems I ever had was as an 18 yo kid dumping my empty cases into my game bag with my ducks. I had a couple of bloopers that dribbled pellets out of the barrel because I didn't check to see if feathers had gotten into the cases and blocked the primer ignition. The problem went away when I kept my cases and ducks separated. I have never used a progressive press and never will. FYI. I have been using some red dot I bought almost 50 yrs ago and stored properly in my 45 acp and 45 colt reduced loads that is still shooting fine.
If using a 7 station press you can put a powder check die in station 3 to catch any gross over/under charges.
I've been thinking about adding one to my 6 station press. Did you go with a Dillon, DAA, or something else?
@@deuceandgunsI use the mark7 powder check. Excellent product very accurate. The daa meh not so much.
I have been reloading for 51 years now, and I love it, and I shoot a lot and frequently, and I am a very careful reloader. It is a main hobby of mine. I started out on an RCBS Jr. press and then graduated up to a Dillon 650 progressive press, which I love, in 1995. By the way, that RCBS Jr. press is still with me and in perfect working condition, and has loaded thousands and thousands of rounds, and I love that little press. But my main reason for responding to your video is because of the very important point you have raised about ' fast burn rate ' gun powders. And there are others out there that one has to be careful with due to a possibility to easily double charge a case with. One that comes to mind, and one that I use exclusively just for .45 ACP, is Winchester 231. It is a great powder for .45 and 9mm as well, but because of its burn rate it is very possible to double charge a particular pistol case. However, with all that being said, that is EXACTLY WHY I chose the Dillon 650 press with its separate powder check die, which will give an audible warning alarm should an undercharged OR overcharged case be run into it just prior to going to the next die, which is the bullet seating die. I purchased my 650 in 1995 and it too has reloaded thousands and thousands of rounds very well, and I are love it to pieces !! Anyway, good video !
A beginner has no business with a progressive press. I have been reloading for 45 years and I use a manually indexed turrent and a loading block. Red Dot is my favorite powder. It is easy to check a loading block of charged cases. A double in what I load will overflow or be right up to the mouth.
I’ve been reloading for 50 years and I’m still using my Bonanza press with no problems.
If you're talking about one of the old co-ax presses, they are highly sought after.
I have been reloading for almost 40 years and have never created an over loaded cartridge. New hand loaders should keep it simple with a single stage press and take all the time in the world to make sure things are being done correctly. Everyone wants a nice progressive machine but take your time and work up to it. Also don’t be afraid to call the reloading companies because they are there for you to enjoy their products in a safe manner.
I use Titegroup and have been very happy with it. Will never use a progressive press. I weigh out every charge and manually pour it into the case from the scale's funnel. Then I immediately by hand insert a bullet. After I have done that to a batch of 10, I then use the press to seat and crimp. When you reload you TAKE YOUR TIME! Point of interest: I load 5.0 grains of Titegroup into my 9mm rounds that I shoot from a Handgun. Average about 1150 feet per second at 2 yards using a 95 grain cast bullet. I just bought a 9mm Folding Pistol caliber rifle. Tested it the other day shooting the very same ammunition that I just mentioned above. At 2 yards I averaged 1661 feet per second. That longer barrel makes a huge difference. May have to tone down my powder load for the rifle ammunition. Then again maybe 1661 feet per second from a 9mm rifle is ok. Have some research to do.
I've been using both Red Dot and Bullseye since the 60s. Never had an issue, BUT they are "dangerous" in that it is VERY easy to accidentally get a double charge in a case. I use Bullseye, primarily in .38 Special wadcutter target loads. Also in 9mm and .45 ACP target loads. It is THE classic powder for light target loads.
Red dot is primarily a shotgun powder for me, for 12 ga./1-1/8 oz. target loads. I have also used it in fireforming cases for .35 Whelen, .35 WCF and .405 WCF. (5 grs. with cornmeal filler and a wax plug 'bullet')
When loading handgun rounds with bullseye, I use my circa 1973 Ohaus Du-O-Measure and visually inspect every case in the loading block for correct charge with a bright light. While a double (or even triple) charge WILL fit in the cases, a double charge (or empty case with no powder) is visually noticeable, IF you check.
I do not use progressive loaders.
You speak wisely. Thanks for posting to this thread.
Thank you.
This is my setup for pistol reloading. Three single stage presses in front of me. In my case a Rock Chucker on my left, and two of the cheap single stage presses in the middle, and on the right. In the middle I use the Lee powder thru expander die with Lee funnel. I made my own custom powder dippers by soldering 1/4 " copper tube to various pistol cases, use a file on the mouth and a scale to get the perfect powder charge. Use a Sharpie pen to give each "dipper" a number, and record in a log book the weight of various powders for each dipper. In the log book record your favorite loads. I've used this "system" for nearly 40 years with no problems. Edit- the middle press I seat the primer.
So you've set up an assembly line of single stage presses? I can see the advantages of that setup...and I assume you're using the bullet proof Rock Chucker as the resizing and decaping station.
Buy a set of Lee powder dippers......they work great!
@@deuceandguns Yup, that's it, cheap presses work well for the other two stages.
@@craigoldsen1667 I bought Lee powder dippers years ago, but there is too much variation between each dipper for many of my "sweet loads".
I think bullseye is older than unique, not sure they’re both old, but good. Aliant still have lots of the original hercules bullseye to use as a reference for new lots.
231 for most of my reloads.
296 for the bad boys.
I have gotten into a little trouble with W231. Great powder! Fine for light loads but also capable of medium power in the .44 Mag. OTOH, after loading up about 1000 240gr SWC at the maximum charge, I learned that in some handguns, they were borderline hot, sticking in the cylinder. I shot what I could and pulled about 600 bullets. Ugh. From now on, I will reserve this fine powder for lighter loads.
I have never used a progressive press, but years ago I had a squib (no powder). It could have gone very badly. That is when I changed my process to STRICTLY charge powder into all 50 cases in the block and examine them under a light before seating bullets. Not a problem since then.
I've never used Red Dot or No# 2 AA. I did use # 5 for my .40 S&W. Love it. It's a great powder that got hard to find when I was looking for it.
I always heard that Titegroup was the most dangerous. I have used that for 9mm, but I am paranoid doing so.
I guess reloading is inherently dangerous if you aren't paying attention.
Double charged my 1911 with longshot because I was busy screwing with the priming system on a lee pro1000 long story short I have a Dillon 650 now
I started off with a pro1000...She's a finicky beast.
@@deuceandguns I could never get the priming system right and after blowing the grips off on that double charge I sold it
I use 3 powders for pistol. Unique for non-magnum revolver, H110 for magnums, and Bullseye for auto loads.
Only speaking from my personal experience here. I started getting into reloading about 2010 and my caliber of choice was 9mm. A friend gave me an old lee single stage that I rocked for about a year before finding a deal on a lee pro 1000 which I decided to pick up after watching a ton of videos on it. They're finicky, but when you get it figured out and dialed in, they're pretty decent presses. Given my financial situation back then, wish I would've saved some pennies and bought a dillon progressive instead, but I'm workin' with what I've got. I did upgrade away from the powder disk to I believe they called it the "perfect powder drop" which in my experience, with the flake powders like reddot are MUCH more consistent charges.
Oddly enough, my first pistol powder (and still today in fact) of choice was Red Dot. Was $16/lb then (jesus I miss those days) and have probably loaded close to 20,000 rounds of fairly low power "economical" 9mm with it. Only issue I ever had was super early, I had a couple squib loads, but was at least smart enough to recognize what the "poof" my pistol made, vs racking the slide and sending another one. Granted, I put a few LED strips on the underside of my turret top so you can very clearly see what is going on, and the amount of red dot I drop is very recognizable vs over/under charge.
Also, interesting you recommend Unique powder over red dot. I had go run down to my powder magazine and check that.. poured a bit of unique and reddot out next to each other, and the only difference I can spot is literally the red dots. The flakes look identical between the two, so I'm not sure why Unique would be better suited over reddot for clogging in a powder drop? Interesting.
I have used Unique for many pistol cartridges. It is the dirtiest powder I have used other than black powder. I use 4198 for 45-70 and 43 Spanish cartridges, but the charge is only 27 grains so I have to add white corn grits as filler to keep the small charge at the bottom of the cases, the same as one does with black powder 60 grain loads for my Snider rifle and carbine. It is extra work to do that for smokeless powder, but that is better than a squib load where the charge does not explode and the priming cap sends the bullet only part way into the barrel and you have to clear it with a ramrod..
Self taught reloader. Started with a Rock Chucker. It must have been 30 years old then, that makes it 65 now. Still going strong though I stepped up to a progressive press for pistol calibers.
I think of Red Dot as a shotgun only powder. .45 is W231, 9mm is unique, .357 is H110 or W296.
Those Rock Chuckers just last and last.
On my progressive and on my turret press, I use an endoscope (tiny camera) pointing at the case. I view it on my smartphone zoomed in. It's a great way to see the powder level close up for me.
And I of course agree with those high density powders. It can be all too easy to double charge. Years ago I switched from Titegroup to Hodgdon Universal for that reason. They are both great powders though.
That's a fancy setup! Sounds like it works.
@@deuceandguns cheap too! Only around 20 bucks on Amazon.
For every cycle of the Hornady progressive, I say to myself as i check the various stations: Primer, Powder, Bullet, Case. Saying those words aloud make it a little slower than if i did not, but my safety (and those around me at the range) is worth the extra time.
NEVER A PROGRESSIVE LOADER ON RIFLE AMMO!! Been loading for 45 yrs, I weigh EVERY CHARGE!!!
For rifle I'm a big fan of the Lee Classic Turret press.
I've been using a Lee Pro1000 press to bulk load 5.56 and 300blackout. I do it in 2 stages though. I de-prime, size and trim the brass first (Dillon press mounted trimmer). I clean off the case lube then de-crimp the primer pockets, take the edge off the trimmed case mouth, and prime off press. Next I charge , powder check, and seat on the press. I prep my brass in lots of 5000+ and load four or five hundred at a time as needed. It is pretty consistent that way. I will trim multi fired brass after 5 reloads. All other rifle is done on a single stage. I don't have to trim and de-crimp primer pockets when I load multi fired brass but I still size, clean off lube, and prime off press.
@moushunter IN all my years loading, the tool I like the best is a Sheridan Cutout Guage!!! It will tell you when you need to trim & quality of finished load!!! The cutout shows you everything!! Used chamber guages for years, the cutout makes it so much more useful!!! I encourage you to pick one up for all chamberings!! Best $35 you'll ever spend!!
I’ve been reloading for a lot of years and knock on wood the worst thing that’s happened to me is not having a primer in a case. One of the items I bought years ago is an RCBS powder lock out die. This die will not only tell you if a case doesn’t have powder in it, but it will tell you if you have thrown an over charge of powder. I liked die so much that I bought several for different calibers. If you hand load with a progressive press I strongly suggest you add one of these dies to your press.
RH
Good call-outs. I use Red Dot for 12ga grouse loads as well as 45 acp, but not in a progressive press. The worst thing I have experienced with Red Dot is how it smells when it burns. Ugh.
I got a TON of information and advice from this channel when I was first stepping into reloading. Thank you for the consistently good information presented very clearly. The signal-to-noise ratio here is outstanding.
Friend of mine set me up. Recommended unique to start for 9 and 4350 for 30 06. Never had an issue. Have a redding t7 that is great. Scale is an old m7 that weighs everything. I take reloading as a process, not a means to an end.
That 4350 is a fantastic powder for 30-06. Your friend knows his stuff.
None of these sketch powders are a match for the Lee Auto drums I use. Mine will throw red dot 700x 800x and even trailboss down to a tenth all day long. For my progressive press I use a powder cop on my Dillon xl650 and I use a bore scope tied to a old phone for checking my drops on my classic turret presses. When I first started loading I used a rockchucker single stage and charged 50 cases at a time in a hornady loading block. It's pretty easy to see if something is off when You have 50 charged cases sitting in front of you. Easy to dump and check if you have your beam scale setup and ready to verify. Check check and double check. When in doubt.. Dump it out and drop another.
I upgraded from the Lee auto disc to the auto drum last year and I agree it's a big improvement...Except for H110 powder. My auto drum leaks H110 and only H110 like a sieve.
@@deuceandguns Do you have some of the early auto drums? The early ones had an issue with the super fine powders but the later style cartridges with the newer wiper run h110 and 296 without much issue. Check with LEE and see if you can get the newest powder drop cartridges. I have one surper early autodrum and it for sure spits a bit but it's light years better than my perfect powder measures I have laying around.
WHAT?! They have a wiper version now? I guess I'll be upgrading that next week. Thank you for the info, I try to stay on top of everything new in the firearms community, but some things do slip by on occasion.
I use Winchester 231 and Hodgdon HS6 exclusively for my auto pistol rounds. I use Trail Boss for my cowboy loads like 45 Long Colt.
First powder I loaded with was W231 for 9MM and it was some pretty hot ammo. Magnum pistol primers on, I think, 3 grains of W231. The primer had a good amount of cratering out of the carbine I owned. Needless to say in the half decade since, I have gotten much better at hand loading
No kidding. Using magnum primers in 9mm? Bad. I'm surprised they even fit.
Thanks for the clear insight on the powder room and how it is problematic for us.
Accurate #2 gives me inconsistent burns with light to medium loads. Small primer 45acp but also 380acp. Haven’t tried with large primers. Went back to Titegroup and am using up the #2 for heavy 380 only. I would say a medium Titegroup is equivalent to a full #2 in a 380 loading.
I've been reloading for years n years!!
Red dot is "0ne" of my favorite powder's!
TiteGroup, W231, PowerPistol, n CFE Pistol will cover 90% of anything you could wanna do with typical pistol calibers
The danger you describe for (not only!!) new reloaders using powders like Accurate No 2 are not limited to any brand of gun powder.
The exact same problems can arise with any brand very fast burning powder, such as Vihta/Kemira N310, Vectan BA10 etc....
I just use a single stage press. Use powder and bullet combos that have a high percentage of fill and always visuallly check my tray of primed and filled cases with a flashlight before seating bullets.
When I first started reloading I used Trail Boss because it is so bulky that it makes it impossible to double charge. Too bad you can't find it any more.
At the 2024 Shotshow Hodgdon said Trail Boss was going to come back sometime in 2024, but I haven't seen anything yet.
I hope it comes back. It's one of the best choices for new reloaders. Maybe they adjusted the formula so that it can stand up to a little bit of compression.@@deuceandguns
I got scared when the thumbnail showed bullseye, power pistol and unique and those were the most common powders I had.
I love Longshot for 9mm. It's very forgiving with a wide charge window and you get amazing velocities with safe pressure. You also can't possibly double charge it
I mounted a shell-holder to my press: the shell in the holder had a properly weighed powder charge and was a visual reference for each shell as I loaded.
12,000+ rounds of .357 loaded, zero errors.
Yeah, it was kinda slow.
That's a great idea.
Unique , h110, green dot and power pistol are my go to.
You could add Bullseye pistol powder to the list. More than one .38 Special has been ruined on account of a double charge.
I have used almost all the powders you showed except maybe unique and many others with no issues. I found tight group to be better for small loads such as 380 and PB to be dirty. I now use slightly slower powders such as CFE pistol and AUTOCOMP. I no longer load 380, I load 9MM, 40SW 10MM.
Depending on what your case/caliber is, there are other powders that can fit more than one charge in a case. 357 Magnum comes to mind with Bullseye. I’ve loaded a few thousand rounds of 357 with bullseye over more years than I care to admit, and when I’m working a charge that a double would push beyond the published max loads, I’ll pour two sample cases just for safety sake and observation. Case #1 is a normal load and Case #2 is an intentional double. Place the two cases next to one another in my loading block and look at the relative height just to make the double load stand out in my mind. I’ve never loaded 44 mag, but I would expect it to be another one that could fit a double load of bullseye in the case. My point is, be careful and think about ways to prevent mistakes before they happen.
You were doing fine to you mentioned Bullseye. It is as easy as the Acura # 2 to double charge many cases with it. It only takes a small amount of Bullseye for many loads. For most of my reloads I use a powder that takes up most of the volume of the case. Using a Dillon 550B it is easy to see the potential double charge spill the powder out.
Use alliant 2400 for my .357 mag loads and W231 for 38 spl.
Both work very well for what I want in both handgun and loads for my Winchester "73".
That said, I still load all my cases on a single stage press, following a specific process in every attempt to avoid a double charge.
So far, still have all my fingers and eyes...
I use a Lyman turret press!
Been using it for years!
Never... And l repeat "never" had a double charge using this system!
Red Dot is excellent for shotshell reloading (primary use). I myself prefer “pistol type” powders for the exact safety reasons expressed in this video. Unique is tried and true old school ; I find myself having good success with Hodgon CFE Pistol as my all around 9mm and .45 ACP loadings. Great video ; was fun to watch
I do not reload with just price in mind. My number 1 is accuracy followed by value of the round. All my powder is weighed by an automatic powder scale. About every 10th charge I do a second check with a backup scale. I manually charge my loads and then place the brass in a reloading tray before transferring them to my turret press so there is no possible of double charging the round. Before seating the bullet if there is any question at all about the load I dump it out and start over again. I do not see slowing down the process as a detriment since I don’t end up with either a squib load or a double load. As far as I’m concerned my biggest hassle is finding my brand of primers and powder locally as I refuse to pay HazMat and shipping charges.
In the 70s it was called the 2.5 bullseye suprise. I stick with unique ot tight group for mild loads. H 414 has also been sighted for pressure excursions in hot weather.
I suggest a a powder like CFE Pistol. Can be used for almost any pistol round out there, and will deliver some of the highest velocities in pistol sans subcompact, and snubbies. Always use a powder cop to visual check your loads before the bullet is placed into the brass. First couple of sessions for a newbie might be a good idea to tare your powder scale with a KNOWN good round, and weight the rounds when they drop, or load 20, and weigh them quickly together.
I do use titegroup quite a bit for my 32 wadcutter loads for a snubbie, and 32 ACP, and it is an economical powder to use.
I am kind of new to hand loading. I load .38 with tite group. I noticed you could easily douple charge tite group in a .38. Can that be said for 9mm?
Scared me, I have been reloading about two years and #2 is one of my favorites. I use a powder measure and or hand weigh each round for handgun loads.
I always tell new reloaders to start with rifle because you can't double charge the case. I was taught 35 years ago that any of the dot powders were for shot shells only
I never made a mistake with a single stage press. When I got a turret press with a powder dispenser die, I got squib loads because humidity caused powder to clump in the machine. I learned a lot of good lessons, but I could have done without the mistakes.
I think Bullseye is one of the most dangerous powders. But I'll take your two powders into consideration as well.
In Texas, I have not seen bullseye in stock for a couple years.
It's so odd how regional our powder availability is. In my area, if I didn't develop a pistol load using Bullseye and a rifle load using Reloader 15 I simply couldn't reload without trying to buy powder online.
One of the first rules of thumb for reloading: if you have any questions about a powder load, always dump and repour.
Accurate No.2 is a fantastic powder. Get a good measure. Take your time. And the results will speak for themselves.
Any propellant has the potential to be dangerous, however you define that word, it is the operator that determines the outcome.
After 56 years of handloading experience. Always stack things in your favor to be as mistake free as possible. Use powders that meter easily through a powder measure and have a 50% loading density or higher for starters. I could go on and on of this subject matter.
When I started reloading, I decided to seat the bullet immediately after dropping the powder. I get the cases cleaned, resized, primed, and expanded, so I have a tray that's ready for powder and bullet. I haven't had any charge issues from that process.
i use a powder measure and i have found after you load a few cases with bullseye the powder packs and you get a heavyer charge.i weigh every tenth charge better to be safe than sorry.
Ramshot blue dot is same thing , very fine powder very easy to double load when u don't pay attention , I use it to loadbmy 5.7x28 subsonic, it only needs 2.5 grains for 55 fmg , that's a tiny load , and it ignites with no issues
Winchester 231 is another option that I’ve come around to. It is flaky but probably a little volume per charge. Admittedly, I’m not sure as Ive never used red dot or AA 2. Autocomp is a ball that’s more forgiving and boasts a 4-5 gn charge weight in 9mm, which presumably would address the problems you highlighted in your video.
I loaded some 9mm with a progressive loader and it only dispensed a very small amount of powder so the bullet got stuck 3 quarter down the barrel so bad things can happen be extremely careful
I have used tried several powder for my gamer 9mm loads. Accurate #2 is ok. A tad messy. I haven’t ever had any problems loading it. But I have used many pounds of tite group and like it best so far. Fairly cheap and easy to come by. And meters very well.
I bought a 7 stage progressive press right out of the gate. I am mechanically inclined so I knew it wouldn’t be an issue. I installed an RCBS lock out die from day 1. To mitigate human error. Cheap and passive protection.
I use red dot for 12 gauge, and large case handgun calibers. 45 colt, 44-40, 44 special. That said, I have a led light in my progressive press for looking at every round. For my single stage press, I refuse to use the loading block method of charging a large number of rounds with powder before seating the bullets. Instead, I mount a powder drop near the press, and only load powder into one cartridge case at a time. The case doesn't leave my hand until a bullet is set and it's in the press for seating and crimping.
Ran pro press's(Lee) for years saw to many mistakes, switched to a cast-iron single breech-loc with better results, slower yes but more peace of mind, having redundancy checks(I do three to four ) in powder charging is most important.