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Made by ME 4
Добавлен 18 мар 2015
I have been passionate about objects produced in the workshop, metal products made on lathe and mill, welding and plasma-cutter and many more, since I was a child. I accept any technical challenge and I believe that I have the necessary skills to do things well. Some of my utensils are MADE BY ME and many others I will build from now one. My videos contain and will contain only products that will be useful in my activities and by presenting them I hope to be useful to others. Thank you for your time.
CAST IRON from HELL. Impossible to turn or mill
The hardest material I have not been able to turn. It is impossible to process.
Просмотров: 325
Видео
VEVOR PRECISION VICE-milling or grinding to the next level
Просмотров 4 тыс.16 часов назад
An inexpensive vice for your workshop. Complete review and precision measurements. A tool you need for milling machine and automatic grinding machine. s.vevor.com/bfRct0 EUR s.vevor.com/bfRdpV US
BURNISHING TOOL- many balls VS few?
Просмотров 3,7 тыс.18 часов назад
Milling machine tool. For metal mirror flat surface.
BESTARC MIG 145 - the cheapest BEST WELDING MACHINE in the world
Просмотров 52114 дней назад
BESTARC 145 MIG, TIG, STICK. Synergic control 3 in 1 welder. Super product, super price. s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_olmBOpc reurl.cc/WN31K7 amzn.to/4b73sSo
THE UNSEEN DETAILS-MIRROR FINISH MILLING TOOL on flat surface
Просмотров 13 тыс.14 дней назад
Simple and brilliant. A milling tool.
UPGRADE FOR LATHE- healthy or not?
Просмотров 4,2 тыс.28 дней назад
I made a coolant mist. It is simple. DIY
SIMPLE IMPROVEMENT
Просмотров 7 тыс.Месяц назад
Turn and mill simple accessories for milling machine. DIY
Metal lathe upgrades
Просмотров 7 тыс.Месяц назад
A tool for sanding metal parts after turning on lathe.
DRILL and CENTER at the same time. This tool exist !
Просмотров 10 тыс.Месяц назад
A part that needs to be centered and drilled for turning on the lathe and quick mounting of the live center. This tool does that.
T-SLOT KEYS different and simplest to make.
Просмотров 4,8 тыс.Месяц назад
I made T-SLOT fixture keys for my rotary table. Alignment with milling machine is very easy now. You just need a lathe and turning. And a drill.
BULL NOSE a tool for lathe. DIY
Просмотров 21 тыс.2 месяца назад
Is a center part tool for large pipes and bushing in the lathe, for turning without deviations.
NO MISTAKE ALLOWED. New lathe chuck turned
Просмотров 11 тыс.2 месяца назад
A lathe chuck that does not fit and turning the flange is not possible. But I managed to mount it.
EASY ALIGNMENT from now on
Просмотров 4,5 тыс.2 месяца назад
Two devices that must be aligned on the milling table. I show you how I did it using only a lathe and a drill.
My challenge to make -MORSE TAPERS-
Просмотров 8 тыс.2 месяца назад
Two morse tapers on the same spindle to connect a chuck to a milling machine or lathe. The challenge is to manage to center.
This TOOL makes A BEST SURFACE on the lathe. DIY
Просмотров 85 тыс.2 месяца назад
This TOOL makes A BEST SURFACE on the lathe. DIY
CENTERING the MILLING TABLE in a few seconds
Просмотров 4,1 тыс.3 месяца назад
CENTERING the MILLING TABLE in a few seconds
HOW TO MAKE A DIE on your workshop. DIY
Просмотров 6 тыс.3 месяца назад
HOW TO MAKE A DIE on your workshop. DIY
FRICTION SUPPORT for the LATHE. DIY
Просмотров 8 тыс.3 месяца назад
FRICTION SUPPORT for the LATHE. DIY
DIE HOLDER IMPROVEMENT for lathe DIY
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.4 месяца назад
DIE HOLDER IMPROVEMENT for lathe DIY
Making a threading DIE HOLDER for lathe
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.4 месяца назад
Making a threading DIE HOLDER for lathe
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 2
Просмотров 4,5 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 2
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 1
Просмотров 3,2 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 1
LATHE BELL PUNCH center finder pt 3
Просмотров 2,8 тыс.5 месяцев назад
LATHE BELL PUNCH center finder pt 3
Try a large radiused carbide tip and get stuck right in ..works on duplex..worth a try
Tried to machine a small cast iron weight once to make a steady for my mini lathe .used the same lathe to turn it .unsuccesfully .it was a nightmare .
I only know that a lot of people tried to machine these kind of weigts, with very little succes.
I think that castiron is case harding, my fordge is similar to yours and it get 2000 degrees, aluminum makes a great back plate..good luck.
I never thought it could reach such a temperature. Thanks for the comment and good luck to you too, my friend.
Hi Jimmy It has been too long since I read up on cast iron metallurgy so I can’t tell you for certain if you can make malleable iron out of any white cast iron or if it has to be a fairly specific alloy. I couldn’t tell from the video what the break looked like, but the normal test for cast iron is looking for gray white/white. It almost looked like there was a shallow white outer layer with gray inside, which is normal for a casting. Most likely you would have to remelt the material and raise the silicon content to get a machinable gray iron. Tramps like lead can cause good iron to go hard in very small percentages.
Thank you sir for your detailed comment. The information written by you is very important. Until now, I always believed that a metal object becomes softer by slow cooling. Just not now. It's a little more complicated for me :((
If you cool down cast iron slowly after the casting proces you'll obtain mostly grey cast iron if you cool it fast you'll have white cast iron . I've never machined white cast iron but i know it's quite hard and could be what you're dealing with. It should also have a different chip formation from grey cast iron because there isn't graphite in the material structure. Also if you try to cool down slowly you'll still probably get the first layer that cools fast and you'll obtain white cast iron on the surface and grey one in the core which could be what you see in the video at 15:16
Very possible, but why I couldn't find a softer core in the file tests is still a mystery to me. All my file touched was an extremely hard surface and I also filed the surface from the core. The sound of the file remained unchanged. It is true that are two areas of different colors, but they have identical hardness. Thank you for your comment!
I have had the same experience with some parts made from cast iron. Even attacking the parts with an angle grinding disc failed. I hope there wil be some "expert" who wil be able to enlighten us!
There will certainly be opinions of some experts. I'm really curious what this cheap and hard material is. Thank you for your comment!
Great video Jimmy. I’ll read the comments to find out what the weights are made of. 😃👍🏻
I'm waiting too. But usually the comments of connoisseurs appear later. We, the little fish, write first :)) The big fish are still waiting. Thank you for the appreciation MrSeeuu !
Hi! I love all your experimental stuff. And your style and videos. Keep it up! /A fellow machinist junkie
:)) Thnak you for your kind words, my friend! Your comment means a lot to me.
Great attempt. It’s not a failure. You succeeded in determining that twenty small balls isn’t better than three large ones. And you got to make a great looking tool as well.
Yes, it is true that at least I have this consolation :)) Thanks for the encouragement !
Always good to do some experimenting. Just don't stop and go for it.
Thank you sir for the nice words and encouragement !
Lucky you with the 4 jaw chuck which matches the machine. I'm unable to find one in the U.S.
Unfortunately, you won't even find it on planet earth :)) I adapted this chuck to fit my lathe and if you want, watch my video ”No mistake allowed” and maybe it will help you to modify one as I did. Thank you for your comment !
You probably need a smaller diameter race for the parts your trying to burnish. I haven't seen rotary burnisher used since 1970's but it was used to burnish bearing bores (also finished them to 0.003mm tolerance, 35mm and 42mm bearings) The pressure was quite high considering it was being used on cast iron, setting tool broke a few castings when tool setter went too far. It also got used on stainless steel when parts were being made to take to a 'Trade Show' in London (UK) I made the parts then got laid off ( along with another 29 people 😕- last in, first out)
I am honored that people like you visit my channel. Thank you for your comment sir !
At: Gracias por contestar ,si la morza es de forging steel como usted dice, lo dudo seri`a de muy buena calidad y el preci`o seri`a ma`s costoso $$$. Provablemente el cuerpo es de fundici`on gris, por eso le pregunte a cuantos grados funden. Este es un detalle importante en la fundici`on . Meteorologia del mineral. De acuerdo a los libros son dos distintas cosas , FUNDICI`ON GRIS _ Hierro forjado⚽⚙🔨. Saludos Greeting from CANADA.
Respeto las normas de fabricaci`on y el precio que es la mitad. Bueno Amigo pregunta. A cuantos grados centigrados funden la fundicio`n gris ( CASTING IRON ) cuando funden el material, Gracias . Greeting from CANADA.
After long searches (I only read the product description on the VEVOR website :)) I found the type of cast iron used 🥳 " The vice body is HT250 high-quality cast iron forging with good toughness, high strenght and durability"
At : You check lucks fine .bat the casting are not hard and stable material . When your tighten the screw the casting move flexible in reality the vise are not hold the precision. Detail old vise has manufacturing square thread and nuts lost long life , UNC thread wear fast especial when mixing with small cheap or steel dust . Greeting from CANADA.
Thank you for your comment !
"The vice body is HT250 high-quality cast iron forging with good toughness, high strength and durability". This the description on the VEVOR website and can always be read in the product description. Now to drop an extra 1000 $ on a UNC thread ?? No, I don't really think so. 😥 Thank you for your comment Alex !
Very interesting device. I have the same model lathe. Damatomacchine ? I've made a modification to the tailstock so that now i have almost 90mm of travel because with the original 45mm it's quite limited.
@@lucasandri5462 Gold idea. Good modification. Many things about this larhe is upside down :)) But is precise and good for beginners like me. Thank you for your comment !
Ça sert à rien de serrer la pièce trois fois
I know. Habit 😊
A very thorough review. Thank you!
@@gaiustacitus4242 Thank you very much ! I do my best.
Where you bought this vise ?
@@KSMechanicalEngineering From VEVOR. in my video description you have a link if you want to buy.
Separately to the question of if it works better, this design seems to be much easier to produce, especially if you remove the spring.
@@theorbtwo Unfortunately the spring has no role. Yes, it's much easier to build. Thank you for your comment !
I think there are a couple things you could do to improve results. One is fortunately easy to test. I think every time a ball goes off the side of your part it will relax downward a bit, and then when suddenly slammed back into the workpiece, it will have to jump back up, creating a bit of chatter. Does the finish improve when going down the middle of a workpiece wider than the circle of balls, such that there isn't an interrupted "cut"? The other thing that might help is applicable to then other design, but impossible on this one. You may be able to interrupt the formation of the waves before they get to such a height as to overwhelm the balls by having two sets of three balls, such that one is further out from the axis of rotation of the tool by one ball radius. That would make each ball flatten the peak of the wave created by the previous ball.
The contact surface of the ball with mirror is extremely small. Hm. A very interesting idea. Let each ball have its radius and its path so that it does not follow the same tracks? Did I understand correctly?
Thank you for your video tear down. Seems like a winner.
I'm glad you appreciate it and thank you for let me know.
What you have established here are major name brands are often grossly overpriced and simple attention to details and properly trammed machines can offer equivalent performance at a significant reduction in cost.
Times have changed a bit. Big brands should adjust their prices a bit. A vice of the same type but 20 times more expensive is not really justified, even if someone will contradict us. It is proven that 80% of the price is usually the brand name. Thank you for watching and thank you for your comment !
To be fair Vevor have improved their quality of late. They weren't always like this.
To be fair, China has manufacturers at the cutting edge in quality, along with dozens of fake knock offs identical in identifying marks and packaging. As for Vevor, they are a RETAILER. Not wholesale or manufacturer. Obviously they are buying more quality goods in some cases. They are based in Hong Kong but now have warehouses and retail outlets in several countries.
I was waiting for the checks for squareness of the fixed and moving jaws. They are very important
Correct.!! It was important to present these things as well. I simply forgot :(( This is my first vice review and the second in my life. I will be more careful next time. I hope my intuition is not wrong, but I think they have been checked by the manufacturer and are within the parameters. Thank you for your comment!
So why does one vice cost 79 euro and anoher vice 1200 euro................what is the difference ?
Why 1200 euro and not 2400 euro ? I'm just curious why? Would 2400 still be a bit much? There is a lens for my video camera that cost 16000 dollars . The same lens, with the same characteristics (sony made) costs 1000. Is that lens 16 times better than the Sony one? There are small details that probably differentiate them but the price difference is just....grandiosity and marketing. It's just my opinion. Related to the vice in the video. I presented a vice for 65 dollar. That's all. Not the best vice in the world ever made, but a great vice. Thank you for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 65 dollar,so it's made for 15 dollar,it makes no difference to me but be honnest and tell the people that if you put something in this vice it will lift the object up while clamping it down............
You probably didn't watch more than 10 seconds of my video. At minute 18:21 that's exactly what I'm showing using a dial indicator (no lift at all). I'll get over the fact that you're a je.rk for telling me I'm not honest with people. (why you make me a liar, I still don't know) !? I just hope you didn't watch the video to the end.
@@mvdg2927 I have a couple of 5" vises I have had for years. They look like they came out of the same Chinese factory. They have worked fine on my CNC mill for many years and there's no lift of parts when tightened. The design of the angle-lock system with the half ball under the movable jaw may be pretty crude looking, but it's plenty effective. The vise is likely a very good deal. The small variation he had in the far ends of the vise bed was very close to what my 5" vises had. I put them both down on my milling table without the jaws on and took a couple of really light skim passes to mill the beds to match each other. They've been stupidly good for the price.
I think it is the advantage of the production line that makes chinese products cheaper. The cost of a production line producing 10,000 products and 1 million products will be different. The cost of the production line is spread over more products.
Well the saying goes, “you get what you pay for”. Though Vevor does sell inexpensive machine tools, jigs, fixtures, etc. They’re usually ill regarded by some who buy their products, one person facetiously said, “…they must use sand to lubricate their dividing head…’ because he said each moving part felt so gritty. Though the complaints of the quality of all of their products are aplenty. People in the machining world forget the one thing I’ve learned while I was apprenticing at a local machine shop, that is: A skilled craftsman worth their weight in gold understands it isn’t the machine, the tool or machine tool that makes a good craftsman. It’s the other way around. Buying Asian products mainly for the machine shop, you have view those products as rough tooling kits. Like rough castings made into an awesome part. Like it’s rumored to have said: “When Michael Angelo was asked how he sculpt so well, allegedly he stated, “The people were already in there I just chipped away the rest”. You get the shape of the tool you ordered from vevor, but viewed as a kit, a good craftsman can machine away the imperfections found in them. RUclips is filled with video of machinists and machinist enthusiasts improving Asian made machine shop products to precision. So, buy cheap and improve it to your own and like a great man once said, Excelsior.
Very nice vice. I have brought one myself. Waiting for my mill before I plan to use it.
Good choice sir ! I can't wait to see your video with it.
I bought one of these vises and it turned out being a huge turd 💩. The jaws are not evenly machined. The surface grind on the removable jaws is so bad that the indicator jumps all over the place when I try to tram it in.
If your vise is Vevor and what I show in the video are tricks, than I hope you don't get upset, but I think you are a big liar. Or am I ???
@@JIMMY916 I bought my vise 3-years ago. It looks exactly like yours with the exception that the vise that I received from Vevor was and still is a big piece of crap. Call me a liar only shows me that you don’t like people to subscribe to your channel. You don’t know me, you don’t know what tools I have in my shop. I have been at this a few years longer than you have. When you buy tools that are obviously made in China it is a hit and miss as to the quality.
I have a 4 inch machine vice and I sure can't pick it up with one hand. Sometimes you get what you pay for. Maybe the Vevor is a good entry level vice though.
I guarantee you that the phone or the computer you are writing from are Made in China, but for a product that I am presenting and it is technically good, you say that it is crap only proves malice on your part. That means I am a liar and I'm making fun of your money. I can't never accept that. To quote you: what is this sh...it ??
@@JIMMY916 I would never accuse you or anyone else, for that matter, of falsifying a review, of a product that you received either in exchange for a video review or one that you purchased. You were simply sharing your personal experience, thoughts etc, on a product that you received and did a review on. I actually purchase many things from Vevor, some of the items that I received were of acceptable quality, while other items, like my vise and my mini lathe, not so much. I enjoy your projects and your reviews, you check out the product using the same approach that I would take. I’m probably more hypercritical because of my years in quality control but that’s me. No worries, no harm done
When you have time, could you do a simple test on this vise for me? Set up a square piece over two parallels between jaws, snug but tighten, hammer down the piece to snug up the parallels, use a finger to touch but push the rear side parallel, start tighten it slowly to anticipate a free parallel, until we think the clamp force is tight enough, finger test the parallel again for free play. If there is a rise we can free the parallel. If the parallel movable with a high resistance at our finger when jaws are fully tightened that’s acceptable.
That's exactly what I'm doing at 19:04. I used the hammer before final tightening ( 1/2 of the final tight ) . I do check those parallels out of habit. My old vice did exactly what you say ( I know what it's about ). After that, I tightened completely and the parallels do not move. If the dial indicator shows no rise, why do you think there is a rise !? I can do this test again for you if you promise to buy a vice after this. Agree ? :))
Page 15;23 suggestion : can we reassemble the fixed jaw block this way? Finger righten first and not wrench tight the block, second close the jaws on a copper rod under some pretension, torque wrench the block bolts. Open the jaws to final torque the block bolts. This can help remove play and flex if any in the block-vise section.
My torque is my hand :)) I'm joking, of course . The tightening torque of the screws is not specified and to find the values on the internet I would have searched for a month (type of cast iron, type of thread, lenght of the screw, hardness of the screw) So I had no choice even though I have two different size torque wrenches that I can't wait to use. Thank you for your comment !
Great review, good high quality products do not have to cost an arm and a leg! Thanks for sharing.
@@joewhitney4097 :)) Thank you for your comment !
Nice vise and disassembly presentation. . If we measure before disassemble it we’d get valuable control data to compare with measurements reassembled. The control data can indicate if we have done something wrong/right in the process.
@@philoso377 Unfortunately I didn't think of that. I hope I reassembled correctly. Thank you sir !
I have the same vice. Goog job
It's a good vice. 👍 Thank you !
Next level. Tools review. Good job bro! 🤘🤘🤘
Thank you my friend ! 👍
A nice honest review of the 4" Vevor vice. You have come to the same conclusion as John Mills ( RUclips's Doubleboost) came to a really good machine vice for not a lot of money. So thank you!
@@samrodian919 Thank you sir ! It means a lot to me.👍
Perhaps it would work on aluminium.
I haven't tried yet. I will definitely do it and we will see the result in a future video. Thank you for your comment !
Nice try but I doubt the surface will be flat or even as the balls will try to ride over the edge and bump along........a surface grinder is the method we use, and it is a tried and trusted solution to a flat and fine surface.
I tried all the methods and almost the same result with this burnishing tool. Thank you for your comment !
Great build, sorry not results you where looking for but, maybe think of it as if you where doing this on lathe. Would they not be a lot more pressure pushing against the part you want shiny?🤔 maybe more downward force with quill?🤔 not exactly sure, but that's our 2 cents and hope it helps 😉👍
It is a true that a bigger press could be a solution but unfortunately my milling machine is not very robust and because of this its pressing is limited. I regret enormously that I cannot try this idea :(( Thank you very much for your comment !
Hi, I think you are doing well in trying to make improvements - so I applaud your motivation & dedication to it!! Have you considered conical rollers? this way you have a larger, linear surface contact area so it will help flatten the surface instead of pushing a groove with the small point contact of the balls... I hope you keep experimenting. Stay safe and well - Anthony (from Australia)
Hi Anthony. Yes, I thought about conical rollers but unfortunately my pressing force is reduced. I can't press harder and for your idea to be effective I assume that a more robust machine is needed. Thank you for your message of encouragement and the kind words you sent me. It means a lot to me. Stay safe and well too, my friend !
I suspect with a light machine like yours less is more, IE you can’t put enough pressure on 20 balls to achieve the desired effect. Kind of like a stuntman sitting on a bed of nails.
Great and logic example (bed of nails) :)) My light machine may be a problem. Except that a stronger pressure would bury the balls deeper in the material and instead of small waves it will produce a ”tsunami”. I can't do this test unfortunately :((
It is looking like you will end up replicating the original with 2 balls.
So Are you feeding with a rack or leadscrew? We repair a lot of ammonia compressors that use mechanical packing and the finish has to be flawless. My lathe makes a repeating ridge every .010” or so near as I can tell is because the feed drive gear has an imperfect tooth. The Ganesch CNC lathe uses a ballscrew drive and doesn’t have a problem finishing. My lathe won’t cut a super fine thread otherwise I would use the leadscrew for finishing. One other issue could be stick slip causing erratic carriage movement like when you are trying to get a nice finish on low carbon steel with too light of a cut.
Maybe :))
@@pvtimberfaller My machine is a hobby one. It's very limited tool. Unfortunately.
One of the reasons you are having trouble getting a good finish with the fly cutter is because you are using a carbide insert tool. Try a piece of high speed steel stoned to a super fine finish ( I use a 150 grit wheel and finish with diamond or stone) a real light depth of cut, .002” or so, fine feed and oil. I did have one machine that would not give a nice finish with a flycutter at all, ever. If you are having problems with loose particles try using an orbital sander with 180-320 grit paper before the burnishing tool and wipe it down in between
Yes, could be an explanation. Thank you for your comment !
Hi Jimmy, I hope you are well. One thing I see right off @ 5:33 is your indicator is at a steep angle to your work piece. That will give you “cosine error” since you are measuring on an angle more than 90 degrees.
Hi Arnold ! I hope you are well too, thank you. I will have to buy a dial indicator with longer action. I couldn't seat properly because I was very close to the chuck jaws. Thank you for your comments !
I don't think the race is allowing the bearings to feed with the part. to feed across the surface I think the bearing would almost have to be in a caster. otherwise as you feed across the work, the ball will try to climb up one side of the race making it lower at that point. it would take much more work, but a set of bearings in individual casters fixed to one head may do better, in theory. this would also give you an opportunity to put and extremely high spring rate on each caster so that each will self adjust as well as adjusting the unit with a heavy spring. another option would be to use a hydrodynamic bearing of sorts so that the ball bearing doesn't connect to race allowing for aliment with the axis motion and rotation.
Everything you say makes sense and can explain my failure with this tool, but unfortunately I don't have the motivation to made another improved model at the moment. It will take at least two days for my enthusiasm to return :)) Thank you for your comment and your suggestion !
I think this tool works fine, the unsatisfactory result was due to a poor job with the fly cutter. Increase the radius on the cutter, increase spindle rpm, and reduce feed rate.
Increasing the radius of the fly cutter will cause my entire machine to be off-centered with negative results. I tried all the settings you mention and those hills are visible regardless of feed rate or spindle rpm. The surface is mirror as it should be but those metal waves cannot be removed or I don't know how to do it. Thank you for watching and for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 I wasn't clear, I meant increase the radius on the grind of your cutter, the radius of where the tool steel is contacting the work. After grinding my bits, I drag them on a sharpening stone to create the radius.
@@JIMMY916 I just dug out my smallest fly cutter which has a very unusual grind but always leaves a beautiful surface finish. If you have an email, Ill gladly send you some pics of the grind angles so you can try yourself. This bit cuts on the heel...
I will be happy to see your model. Mine is a bit limited. Please send me pics on nicolae1979nicolae@gmail.com Thank you very much my friend !
Aha. I understand now. I am a slower...Thank you !
Theory : the Z force on the spindle is coupled to the work is 100% for (one) burnishing ball but it takes longer to cover a given work area. We have to apply X amount of Z force for X times more balls. To achieve same smoothness but X times faster. The spring idea goes adversely that. A polish compound and a buffer mat can do just that, faster and shinier.
My goal is to use this process and try to improve a tool already exists and through my ideas to make it usable by all of us. So far it seems that I have not succeded. I am not a standstill to polish a piece and make it shiny but I don't know the method to do it :)) Thank you dear friend for your comments ! It is always a pleasure to read your comments. As for your theory, it may or may not be true. It's a bit beyond me.
You’re on the right path. Polishing steel via burnishing is a metal displacement process that tends to work on metals that are 45HRC and below. Perhaps you are trying to polish a steel that is greater than 45 HRC not allowing the bearing balls to displace the metal as smoothly as possible. Try testing out your burnishing tool on a variety of metals to see what the range of results can be achieved with the tools at varying spring pressure, feeds and speeds. Great looking tool!🤠
Unfortunately, I don't have data on all the types of steel I have. I can only approximate their hardness ”by eye” and I can tell you that the metal plate used is not very hard. I have not tried on aluminum or copper or high alloy steel. But it's an good idea. Thank you very much for your comment !
You could probably switch out the regular bearings for carbide or zirconium bearings for hard steels.
Do you think the diameter of the burnishing tool vs. the width of the plate along with the small chips left after fly cutting the surface may affect the results? My thought is maybe the ball jumping up and then back off the surface causes an adverse reaction? I think you idea is great, just keep trying to improve your design. Thanks for sharing.
I had this idea of trying to process a sanded surface with a belt sander in order to have a more friendly surface with this tool, but I gave up because if I prepare the surface so thoroughly, this burnishing tool is no longer useful. It is very likely that you are right. Thank you very much for your comment !
Very interesting. Nice work sir.
Thank you sir !
Have you considered belleville washers instead of spring?
No, I didn't think of using that type of washers. It's a good idea. Thank you for watching and for your comment !
I watch Maurizio Guidi also and copied his single ball polishing unit. It works reasonably well, but I think the ball I bought isn't quite hard enough as it has marks on its surface now after use. I think I will try to get a better quality ball to try in it.
@@samrodian919 Use a bearing ball. It's hard enough for these projects.
@@JIMMY916 yes I agree, but that's what I thought I had bought, but you know eBay............
@@samrodian919 :))