Very nice work. You have learned to compensate for the inadequacies of your equipment and produce very accurate work. This is what makes a man a machinist.
Enjoyed the video. If you don't mind a recommendation, take the time to mount your material more concentric in the chuck to avoid interrupted cuts, this will make it easier on you machine and tooling. I like to place the material in and tap it in using a dial indicator then center drill and place a live center and face off as much as I can then flip the part and chuck it up and face off the second end then center drill for live center if needed this makes it easier to turn the outer to dimension.
I will correct this, for sure. I always forget these amateur details, but I assure you that I am learning. And I learn from all of you who are kind enough to convey these things to me and for that I thank you.
When youre dialling work in (after you flipped the part around), you need to reference two different planes. For the way you had the work held, the best way to do it would be to dial the circumfrence (which is what you did), and then dial in along the parts length, using the carriage to sweep the dial back and forth along the part. This means the part is straight AND concentric, which is what you want. You checked cencentricity, but only on the ring of material where you dialed. If you moved the dial along, it might have been wobbly again! This would all be much easier to straighten up with a four jaw chuck too, if youve got one. Loved your burnishing tool, nice one!
I admit that I did not know that. Your information is extremely important and makes perfect sense. I hope I have the skills to do this correctly. Thank you to everyone who gave me your experience. I'm learning a lot of things that I wouldn't have learned anywhere else, and that's thanks to you and people like you. Thank you sincerely ! I am honored that you were on my channel.
Hi I just ran across your channel. I used to have a machine like yours and hated everything about it. A couple of tips. 1. Generally you machine cast iron dry ( Without lubricant) And steel when using carbide. 2. Always face your workpiece before centering or drilling.
Thanks a lot for the tips. There are many mistakes I make and forget to correct. Still studying. As for the machine, I have passed that moment. I got used to the idea. :((
The burnishing of the turned piece certainly makes it look sleek. I was wondering if amongst your tools you have a set of hardness files to measure what change you have made to the surface in terms of hardness. That would be handy to know. Cheers.
I would really like to be able to see and show you this detail, but unfortunately I don't have anything like that. Yes, it would be extremely useful information for everyone. Cheers, my friend !
The simple memories in our life are the most beautiful. Including wood crakling in the stove, the smell of dry hay and many others that make life unique for us. Thank you sir for sharing your memories.
Dobra robota, ja bym wytoczył stożek morse'a, mocowanie bezpośrednio do konika przez co miał byś dłuższe pole robocze niż poprzez uchwyt wiertarski. 👍 subskrybuję😀
@@pawekowalski7469 It's a long story about my lathe. I can't turn long pieces in one pass because I have that milling table. I have a video where I present this problem of mine. LONG LIVE CENTER is called and there I describe this problem in detail. Thats why I chose this option. To become a long live center. Thank you for your comment !
If you arrange your compound to be perpendicular to the lathe axis would you not gain enough clearance to allow your tailstock to be positioned much closer to the workpiece thus reducing the over-extension of the tailstock barrel?
Unfortunately, my milling table takes up unnecesary space when I have to turn. It forces me to use my long live center. Indeed you are right, in the situation where I am turning short pieces near to the chuck, I could use a slightly shorter live center, but in no case a factory-made one because I cannot find any longer than the usual ones, which for me are short. In conclusion, I know that : I will have to build a slightly shorter live center. Thank you for your comment and suggestion.
La précision axiale de cette réalisation est tributaire de celle du mandrin, en gros + ou - quelques 10 em de mm. L'idéal est un montage avec arbre conique. Pour du dégrossi pourquoi pas.
I made a video where I explain why I can use "long tools", like "long live center". Because of the milling table, my tail stock cannot get close to the correct and usual position as it is on other lathes. Thats why any tool that goes into the tail stock it must have an extension. Thank you very much for your comment !
Very nice project 👍😀... But please don't place the center in a jakobs chuck... It will ruin your jakobs chuck and kill the accuracy / concentric of the rotating center
Wow ! I didn't know that. I was inspired by models that are made by the factory, but I really didn't know that is wrong. The tail is cylindrical. How can I adapt it to use it on morse cone ? Or can I use a collet ? Thank you
ME - I'm confused ! When you are using your Burnishing Tool , what is touching the O.D. of the part ? In the video it looks like the Ball Bearning housing is touching and Burnishing the O.D. of the Part . I suspect that there is a Ball against the Ball Bearing protruding just beyound the O.D. housing and doing the Burnishing . Please clearify -- Jim
Hi Jim. I'm sorry for the confusion. When filming' I try to present the important details as closely as possible, but from what you say, this time I may not have succeeded. So I will try to clarify. The ball comes out of the housing very little, because of this it is difficult to notice. NO PART other than this ball was ever in contact with thwe moving piece. As a conclusion, the ball is in contact, not the housing. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me.
ME - " Difficult to Notice " - Yes you are 100% Correct. I completely missed it . After a long time I finally figured out how your tool works . Opposite the hole you that you injected some oil - Is another hole that contains the Burnishing Ball. Obvioulsy it protrudes the Ball Bearning Housing very slightly . Camera detail is very important . Thank you . -- Jim
There is a video on my channel where I show its construction in detail. Of course, it is not a tool invented by me. Instead, my invention is its shape and probably because of the unusual shape this confusion of yours appeard. And yes, that hole ensures lubrication of the ball more efficiently and does not spread the oil everywhere and the ball is as small as possible for increased efficiency. At least that's my theory and that's why I thought of this form. Thank you for your comment and I'm waiting for you on my channel.
ME - If you will allow me a few minutes - I'll take my foot out of my mouth . I went back to your earlier video and everything was perfectly clear . My Motto is " Open Mouth and Insert Foot " Thank you for your patience . By the way I liked your Video . -- Jim
@@TangentJim :)) It's not about patience. I feel honored when you ask me questions and comments. When you don't write me anymore, it means that there îs no point în continuing and I will stop.
Needs a thrust bearing for the "push" force, every single live center has one that have seen made or made in a factory bearing in back isn't going to be up to task, will eventually eat itself
@@JIMMY916Nie wiedziałem o takich ograniczeniach. To nie ma sensu bo przecież tłumaczenie może mieć wpływ na zasięgi na całym świecie. Jeszcze z angielskim to mały problem. Gorzej jak jest np wietnamski 😂 nie każdy zna taki język. Jesteś pewien że ilość subskrypcji ma na to wpływ? Ok oglądnę filmik i jak mi się spodoba to dam subskrypcję 👍😀
Very nice work. You have learned to compensate for the inadequacies of your equipment and produce very accurate work. This is what makes a man a machinist.
Thank you for your kind words. It helps me a lot.
@marvinpybus4599 So, would you say the confidence boost from accomplishing that could be called *_"machinsmo"?_* 🤔😋
@@NightsReign I'm so confident now I could almost go on a ski holiday :)) Thank you for your encouragement !
Enjoyed the video. If you don't mind a recommendation, take the time to mount your material more concentric in the chuck to avoid interrupted cuts, this will make it easier on you machine and tooling. I like to place the material in and tap it in using a dial indicator then center drill and place a live center and face off as much as I can then flip the part and chuck it up and face off the second end then center drill for live center if needed this makes it easier to turn the outer to dimension.
I will correct this, for sure. I always forget these amateur details, but I assure you that I am learning. And I learn from all of you who are kind enough to convey these things to me and for that I thank you.
Very nice demo! Thanks for the video.
@@dougmac777 Thank you very much! I'm happy from your comment.
When youre dialling work in (after you flipped the part around), you need to reference two different planes. For the way you had the work held, the best way to do it would be to dial the circumfrence (which is what you did), and then dial in along the parts length, using the carriage to sweep the dial back and forth along the part.
This means the part is straight AND concentric, which is what you want. You checked cencentricity, but only on the ring of material where you dialed. If you moved the dial along, it might have been wobbly again!
This would all be much easier to straighten up with a four jaw chuck too, if youve got one.
Loved your burnishing tool, nice one!
I admit that I did not know that. Your information is extremely important and makes perfect sense. I hope I have the skills to do this correctly. Thank you to everyone who gave me your experience. I'm learning a lot of things that I wouldn't have learned anywhere else, and that's thanks to you and people like you. Thank you sincerely ! I am honored that you were on my channel.
Good job. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
@@homemadetools Thank you very much !
Very nice work sir. I can see it will be a good addition to lathe tools
Thank you very much sir! It's a tool I've wanted to make for a long time. I'm happy you like it.
Hi
I just ran across your channel. I used to have a machine like yours and hated everything about it.
A couple of tips.
1. Generally you machine cast iron dry ( Without lubricant)
And steel when using carbide.
2. Always face your workpiece before centering or drilling.
Thanks a lot for the tips. There are many mistakes I make and forget to correct. Still studying. As for the machine, I have passed that moment. I got used to the idea. :((
I’m a machinist and still have days where I just make dumb mistakes.
@@pvtimberfaller This is a good encouragement for me :)) Boost for morale. Thank you for your honestly ! And for your comments
Excellent job man, great video, keep'um coming..
Thank you very much ! :))
This would be great for turning pipe or something similar to center off the cone. Good job.
Thank you very much for your comment ! I'm happy that you liked it.
That's actually one of the bull nose centres uses
The burnishing of the turned piece certainly makes it look sleek. I was wondering if amongst your tools you have a set of hardness files to measure what change you have made to the surface in terms of hardness. That would be handy to know. Cheers.
I would really like to be able to see and show you this detail, but unfortunately I don't have anything like that. Yes, it would be extremely useful information for everyone. Cheers, my friend !
the rain sounds so great when i was a kid our home had a metal roof
The simple memories in our life are the most beautiful. Including wood crakling in the stove, the smell of dry hay and many others that make life unique for us. Thank you sir for sharing your memories.
Nice job!
Thank you very much!
Is that a burnishing tool you have lots of neat stuff for your machines really enjoying your channel
Thank you very much! It means a lot to me.
Dobra robota, ja bym wytoczył stożek morse'a, mocowanie bezpośrednio do konika przez co miał byś dłuższe pole robocze niż poprzez uchwyt wiertarski. 👍 subskrybuję😀
@@pawekowalski7469 It's a long story about my lathe. I can't turn long pieces in one pass because I have that milling table. I have a video where I present this problem of mine. LONG LIVE CENTER is called and there I describe this problem in detail. Thats why I chose this option. To become a long live center. Thank you for your comment !
And thank you very much for your subscribe.
If you arrange your compound to be perpendicular to the lathe axis would you not gain enough clearance to allow your tailstock to be positioned much closer to the workpiece thus reducing the over-extension of the tailstock barrel?
Unfortunately, my milling table takes up unnecesary space when I have to turn. It forces me to use my long live center. Indeed you are right, in the situation where I am turning short pieces near to the chuck, I could use a slightly shorter live center, but in no case a factory-made one because I cannot find any longer than the usual ones, which for me are short. In conclusion, I know that : I will have to build a slightly shorter live center. Thank you for your comment and suggestion.
Way cool!!! 😃👍🏻
Thank you very much !
La précision axiale de cette réalisation est tributaire de celle du mandrin, en gros + ou - quelques 10 em de mm.
L'idéal est un montage avec arbre conique.
Pour du dégrossi pourquoi pas.
I made a video where I explain why I can use "long tools", like "long live center". Because of the milling table, my tail stock cannot get close to the correct and usual position as it is on other lathes. Thats why any tool that goes into the tail stock it must have an extension. Thank you very much for your comment !
Very nice project 👍😀...
But please don't place the center in a jakobs chuck...
It will ruin your jakobs chuck and kill the accuracy / concentric of the rotating center
Wow ! I didn't know that. I was inspired by models that are made by the factory, but I really didn't know that is wrong. The tail is cylindrical. How can I adapt it to use it on morse cone ? Or can I use a collet ? Thank you
what is the lathe never seen one like it has a weird crossslide and drive
It is an italian lathe that also has a milling machine. It is 2 in 1. I think it was designed for tiny spaces. Like my workshop:))
what is the ue of the motor on top of the machine
It is the motor for milling machine.
ME - I'm confused ! When you are using your Burnishing Tool , what is touching the O.D.
of the part ? In the video it looks like the Ball Bearning housing is touching and
Burnishing the O.D. of the Part . I suspect that there is a Ball against the Ball Bearing protruding just beyound the O.D. housing and doing the Burnishing . Please clearify -- Jim
Hi Jim. I'm sorry for the confusion. When filming' I try to present the important details as closely as possible, but from what you say, this time I may not have succeeded. So I will try to clarify. The ball comes out of the housing very little, because of this it is difficult to notice. NO PART other than this ball was ever in contact with thwe moving piece. As a conclusion, the ball is in contact, not the housing. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask me.
ME - " Difficult to Notice " - Yes you are 100% Correct. I completely missed it . After a long time I finally figured out how your tool works . Opposite the hole you that you injected some oil - Is another hole that contains the Burnishing Ball. Obvioulsy it protrudes the Ball Bearning Housing very slightly . Camera detail is very important . Thank you . -- Jim
There is a video on my channel where I show its construction in detail. Of course, it is not a tool invented by me. Instead, my invention is its shape and probably because of the unusual shape this confusion of yours appeard. And yes, that hole ensures lubrication of the ball more efficiently and does not spread the oil everywhere and the ball is as small as possible for increased efficiency. At least that's my theory and that's why I thought of this form. Thank you for your comment and I'm waiting for you on my channel.
ME - If you will allow me a few minutes - I'll take my foot out of my mouth .
I went back to your earlier video and everything was perfectly clear .
My Motto is " Open Mouth and Insert Foot " Thank you for your patience .
By the way I liked your Video . -- Jim
@@TangentJim :)) It's not about patience. I feel honored when you ask me questions and comments. When you don't write me anymore, it means that there îs no point în continuing and I will stop.
Needs a thrust bearing for the "push" force, every single live center has one that have seen made or made in a factory bearing in back isn't going to be up to task, will eventually eat itself
The first bearing I installed is a thrust bearing. I don't really understand what you mean... Can you please explain to me one more time ? Thank you !
@honeycuttracing Perhaps you don't know what a thrust bearing looks like. 11:30 in the video and the final assembly clearly show the thrust bearing.
looks like ya forgot to center better center the steel int he 3-jaw with a gage
Sometimes I'm more concerned with filming and forget some steps. Thank you for your comment !
Udostępnij napisy, będę mógł włączyć tłumaczenia na Polski, dzięki
Unfortunately, I can't use at this moment this option because my channel is to small. Only big ones can. I'm sorry.
@@JIMMY916Nie wiedziałem o takich ograniczeniach. To nie ma sensu bo przecież tłumaczenie może mieć wpływ na zasięgi na całym świecie. Jeszcze z angielskim to mały problem. Gorzej jak jest np wietnamski 😂 nie każdy zna taki język. Jesteś pewien że ilość subskrypcji ma na to wpływ?
Ok oglądnę filmik i jak mi się spodoba to dam subskrypcję 👍😀
I hope. Thank you !👍