Oh man, I'm so glad to see that Maurizio Guidi is finally getting some well-deserved recognition! I've been watching his channel for a year or so, and have yet to not be impressed with his projects. Even with the language barrier, the captions on most videos get autotranslated quite well. I've yet to see him waste either. Everything he makes gets immediately put to use on the next project. Anyway, it's awesome to see people running with his ideas! 🎉
@@JIMMY916 Sorry about that, I never did type out the part about you. No clue why. I enjoy your videos, quite a lot. Did you ever get confirmation on what happened with that dumbbell plate? Why'd it keep hardening, when it should've been annealing...? I mean, who expects O1 tool steel in their offbrand dumbbells? The concepts behind burnishing are really intriguing. I'm glad it's gaining so much interest! I've been wondering how much work hardening apparently happens in the surface with a bunch of metals.
I will make that video very soon. Because of the extreme temperature outside, I postpone its production. But it will definitely be done. Thank you my friend for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 That makes sense. It's hard to justify *_"I'm going to bring a small section of the yard to over 1000°C, and leave it there for several hours, checking on it occasionally, in heavy protective gear. Hope I don't pass out!"_* Not to mention the slow cooldown for annealing. I'm curious how hard the plate is currently, and how brittle. Or was it more not being able to secure it rigidly enough to bite in?
Getting better every time! To alter the finer details of the surface finish you can use bigger balls and overlapping patterns. Bigger balls give you a wider/gentler valley between the hills. Overlapping patterns smooth out the valleys by smooshing the hills down even further. Modern burnishing tools even use roller bearings to smooth the surface out even further. If you make two passes in the same X or Y plane the balls will simply follow their old valleys, if you shift your plane they can't and need to make new valleys. Bear in mind that burnishing isn't for cosmetics, it's for corrosion resistance. If you want a truly mirror surface then polishing is a better option, but polishing was extremely expensive when burnishing was really popular and stainless steel hadn't been discovered yet. With the evolution of alloys, platings and grinding technology burnishing got mostly left behind, but it's still used in some bores when it's the best option.
It is always a pleasure to read your comments. Your experience is huge. Except my theory about the steel ball is a little different because of my unusual machine...big ball=no depht=no trace=no mirror. My pressing ability is limited due to having a hobby milling machine, so I choose small diameter balls. Thank you for your comment and for your information sir !
@@JIMMY916are you sure your machine is made in Italy? I have a twenty four year old version of the almost exact same machine sold by Warco here in the UK it's a WMT300, and it was definitely made in China. The main difference is that mine is a single motor machine and there is a dog clutch on the spindle which changes the drive from the spindle via a bevel gear to the milling machine head. I converted mine to a 1.5 HP 3 phase motor and a quality VFD giving me infinitely variable speed. I've also made electric drives to both the carriage and cross slide( my model did not come with half nuts and cross slide feed, the bigger WMT800 had both and two separate motors)
clever idea, my thoughts to your problem are- 1 offset your balls, 2 lap the bottom of the hole where the balls sit to help prevent skidding. 3 debur your part to prevent possible chips being pulled up onto the surface, hope this may help.
Very interesting device. I have the same model lathe. Damatomacchine ? I've made a modification to the tailstock so that now i have almost 90mm of travel because with the original 45mm it's quite limited.
@@lucasandri5462 Gold idea. Good modification. Many things about this larhe is upside down :)) But is precise and good for beginners like me. Thank you for your comment !
The scratches must be from ball skidding. It looks like the balls have no contact at the side of the plate then must accelerate to full speed when it contacts. Also because the whole thing is feeding in one direction, the balls cannot all run at the same speed and must skid to make up the difference. Try running with just 1 ball and always in contact with the plate.
Although the balls roll on the top and bottom they are driven by the hole in the body where they do rub on the inside of the hole. The harder the balls need to work the harder they need to be driven so the friction in the hole increases. This is also another possible a variable that could contribute to irregular marks. This occurence is why I don't drive the balls on my prototype.
Yes, there may be a delay in the rotation of the balls due to friction, but I believe that the pressure force on the mirror is much greater to overcome the friction from the ball hole. Excess lubrication certainly eliminates a lot of friction.
@@machinists-shortcuts Yes, I am thinking a thick roller bearing with a polished outer race could be used in place of the ball and thrust bearing. You could use a radius of your choosing and no need to drive by side loading. Similar to the rollers used in metal spinning.
@@billshiff2060 Are you thinking of several radial axles with a bearing on each? Then the bearings would be driven by their bores without anything else touching the outside diameter. Maybe the axles will need to be tilted slightly to run the bearing outer race on its edge to concentrate the pressure.
I like your video and your questioning mind. I do not have a lot of money, and like you must do the best I can with what I have. To make a better finish might you driil the ball mount hole at a different radius? Perhaps only O.20mm difference? Each one might then cancel out the ‘waves’ that you onseve. Keep up the good work and do not be stopped because some people criticise your work. My attempt used I single needle roller bearing about 8mm wide mounted on a spindle at the end of a bar and run in the mill or lathe tool post but I do not get as good a result as you.
The idea of mounting on a different radius can be a solution. Thank you for your kind words and it is an honor for me to have such a friend. Thank you very much !
The role of the balls is to roll and press the surface. I don't know if this actually happens in my test. I tested even lighter pressure and the result were not good.
I think the balls are tracking to close to the same machining pattern produced by the fly cutter, try offsetting the ball tool in the ''Y'' axis to produce a more longitudinal pattern thus moving the material from the micro peaks into the micro valleys, a type of crosshatch pattern. It's an interesting theory. make sure everything is clean of any debris, even the smallest of debris can affect the quality of the finish, and potentially mar the balls.
I'm sure that if I had a perfectly flat surface, (without the traces of the fly cutter) after the balls passed there would still be hills in their wake. Penetrating quite deep into the material and thus deforming plastically, regardless of the previous marks. Thank you very much for your comment !
my i suggest that after you machine the surface with the fly cutter use a fine grade cutting compounds say a 360 grit followed by a 600 then one can use diamond rouge, tool makers use this in the making of moulds to give a fine surface finish. The finer y0u can get the surface the better the ball rollers will work.
I watch Maurizio Guidi also and copied his single ball polishing unit. It works reasonably well, but I think the ball I bought isn't quite hard enough as it has marks on its surface now after use. I think I will try to get a better quality ball to try in it.
Yes, it can be an explanation. I think the hills form anyway, even if the balls don't skid. They deform the material by pressing and it moves from place to place. Thank you for your comment sir !
Maybe the balls work harden the metal and periodically it gets too hard to roll down flat so it rides over the hard spot and starts over, then repeats causing the waves. Be interesting to run it over again but at 90 deg angle to see what happens to the waves.
Thank you for all your comments ! I will take into account your experience and I appreciate all the information you have given me. The role of this video was to present a tool and discover with your help how it can be improved. Finally, I will use carefully analyze all your comments and improve this tool. Thank you very much !
I thought about it too and I actually tested this theory after filming. Low pressure = no effect. (unfortunately) . Thank you very much for your comment !
Oh man, I'm so glad to see that Maurizio Guidi is finally getting some well-deserved recognition!
I've been watching his channel for a year or so, and have yet to not be impressed with his projects. Even with the language barrier, the captions on most videos get autotranslated quite well.
I've yet to see him waste either. Everything he makes gets immediately put to use on the next project.
Anyway, it's awesome to see people running with his ideas! 🎉
I'm glad I could be useful.
@@JIMMY916 Sorry about that, I never did type out the part about you. No clue why.
I enjoy your videos, quite a lot. Did you ever get confirmation on what happened with that dumbbell plate? Why'd it keep hardening, when it should've been annealing...? I mean, who expects O1 tool steel in their offbrand dumbbells?
The concepts behind burnishing are really intriguing. I'm glad it's gaining so much interest! I've been wondering how much work hardening apparently happens in the surface with a bunch of metals.
I will make that video very soon. Because of the extreme temperature outside, I postpone its production. But it will definitely be done. Thank you my friend for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 That makes sense. It's hard to justify
*_"I'm going to bring a small section of the yard to over 1000°C, and leave it there for several hours, checking on it occasionally, in heavy protective gear. Hope I don't pass out!"_*
Not to mention the slow cooldown for annealing.
I'm curious how hard the plate is currently, and how brittle. Or was it more not being able to secure it rigidly enough to bite in?
Getting better every time!
To alter the finer details of the surface finish you can use bigger balls and overlapping patterns. Bigger balls give you a wider/gentler valley between the hills. Overlapping patterns smooth out the valleys by smooshing the hills down even further. Modern burnishing tools even use roller bearings to smooth the surface out even further. If you make two passes in the same X or Y plane the balls will simply follow their old valleys, if you shift your plane they can't and need to make new valleys.
Bear in mind that burnishing isn't for cosmetics, it's for corrosion resistance. If you want a truly mirror surface then polishing is a better option, but polishing was extremely expensive when burnishing was really popular and stainless steel hadn't been discovered yet. With the evolution of alloys, platings and grinding technology burnishing got mostly left behind, but it's still used in some bores when it's the best option.
It is always a pleasure to read your comments. Your experience is huge. Except my theory about the steel ball is a little different because of my unusual machine...big ball=no depht=no trace=no mirror. My pressing ability is limited due to having a hobby milling machine, so I choose small diameter balls. Thank you for your comment and for your information sir !
That's a very nice lathe/mill machine. All of the ones I've seen are small cheap Chinese models but yours looks like a good quality one.
My luck is that it is Made in Italy. Thank you for watching !
@@JIMMY916are you sure your machine is made in Italy? I have a twenty four year old version of the almost exact same machine sold by Warco here in the UK it's a WMT300, and it was definitely made in China. The main difference is that mine is a single motor machine and there is a dog clutch on the spindle which changes the drive from the spindle via a bevel gear to the milling machine head. I converted mine to a 1.5 HP 3 phase motor and a quality VFD giving me infinitely variable speed. I've also made electric drives to both the carriage and cross slide( my model did not come with half nuts and cross slide feed, the bigger WMT800 had both and two separate motors)
G’day that was a very good video and it turned out well, good advice about the coolant . Regards John
Thank you John for your appreciation !
clever idea, my thoughts to your problem are- 1 offset your balls, 2 lap the bottom of the hole where the balls sit to help prevent skidding. 3 debur your part to prevent possible chips being pulled up onto the surface, hope this may help.
Yes, these are things that can be improved. The next model will be improved. Thank you very much for your suggestion 👍
No problem. Glad to help
This is special. Very nice finish. Nice work sir
Thank you very much for your appreciation !
Thankyou for a wonderful video. Jim from Cootamundra NSW.
Hello Jim ! Thank you for watching and for your appreciation !
@@JIMMY916 Thankyou the pleasure was all mine, my friend.
Very nice! And I also love the Hobby lathe-guy. I really want to copy his inside burnishing tool. To not have to lap the inside boar of cylinders.
Thank you for your appreciation !
Could the thrust bearing be spring loaded so as to keep an even pressure on the balls? Many thanks for this video it is really good.
Mounting a spring can be a good solution. Thank you for your appreciation. It means a lot to me.
Very interesting device. I have the same model lathe. Damatomacchine ? I've made a modification to the tailstock so that now i have almost 90mm of travel because with the original 45mm it's quite limited.
@@lucasandri5462 Gold idea. Good modification. Many things about this larhe is upside down :)) But is precise and good for beginners like me. Thank you for your comment !
The scratches must be from ball skidding. It looks like the balls have no contact at the side of the plate then must accelerate to full speed when it contacts. Also because the whole thing is feeding in one direction, the balls cannot all run at the same speed and must skid to make up the difference. Try running with just 1 ball and always in contact with the plate.
Although the balls roll on the top and bottom they are driven by the hole in the body where they do rub on the inside of the hole. The harder the balls need to work the harder they need to be driven so the friction in the hole increases. This is also another possible a variable that could contribute to irregular marks. This occurence is why I don't drive the balls on my prototype.
Yes, there may be a delay in the rotation of the balls due to friction, but I believe that the pressure force on the mirror is much greater to overcome the friction from the ball hole. Excess lubrication certainly eliminates a lot of friction.
@@machinists-shortcuts Yes, I am thinking a thick roller bearing with a polished outer race could be used in place of the ball and thrust bearing. You could use a radius of your choosing and no need to drive by side loading. Similar to the rollers used in metal spinning.
@@billshiff2060 Are you thinking of several radial axles with a bearing on each? Then the bearings would be driven by their bores without anything else touching the outside diameter. Maybe the axles will need to be tilted slightly to run the bearing outer race on its edge to concentrate the pressure.
Very cool idea 😎 👍
@@honeycuttracingThank you very much! Only the thrust bearing idea is mine.
I like your video and your questioning mind. I do not have a lot of money, and like you must do the best I can with what I have.
To make a better finish might you driil the ball mount hole at a different radius? Perhaps only O.20mm difference? Each one might then cancel out the ‘waves’ that you onseve.
Keep up the good work and do not be stopped because some people criticise your work. My attempt used I single needle roller bearing about 8mm wide mounted on a spindle at the end of a bar and run in the mill or lathe tool post but I do not get as good a result as you.
The idea of mounting on a different radius can be a solution. Thank you for your kind words and it is an honor for me to have such a friend. Thank you very much !
Smart idea！But little worry about the hit of the steel ball will cuz some sort of damage to the tool
Yes, I was wrong there. The ball must be more hidden. The next design will be different. Thank you for your comment !
Greetings !
Thank you very much sir !
My instinct suggests to me that the amount of "cut" that you apply after touch down might prove critical? (Squish rather than cut)
The role of the balls is to roll and press the surface. I don't know if this actually happens in my test. I tested even lighter pressure and the result were not good.
nice work!
@@mike9500 Thank you Mike !
I think the balls are tracking to close to the same machining pattern produced by the fly cutter, try offsetting the ball tool in the ''Y'' axis to produce a more longitudinal pattern thus moving the material from the micro peaks into the micro valleys, a type of crosshatch pattern. It's an interesting theory. make sure everything is clean of any debris, even the smallest of debris can affect the quality of the finish, and potentially mar the balls.
I'm sure that if I had a perfectly flat surface, (without the traces of the fly cutter) after the balls passed there would still be hills in their wake. Penetrating quite deep into the material and thus deforming plastically, regardless of the previous marks. Thank you very much for your comment !
my i suggest that after you machine the surface with the fly cutter use a fine grade cutting compounds say a 360 grit followed by a 600 then one can use diamond rouge, tool makers use this in the making of moulds to give a fine surface finish. The finer y0u can get the surface the better the ball rollers will work.
I still think that this tool can be improved. Thank you for your comment and suggestion !
I watch Maurizio Guidi also and copied his single ball polishing unit. It works reasonably well, but I think the ball I bought isn't quite hard enough as it has marks on its surface now after use. I think I will try to get a better quality ball to try in it.
@@samrodian919 Use a bearing ball. It's hard enough for these projects.
@@JIMMY916 yes I agree, but that's what I thought I had bought, but you know eBay............
@@samrodian919 :))
The scratches may be from the balls skidding. This can happen when you drive the balls by the holes instead of rolling them from the top.
Yes, it can be an explanation. I think the hills form anyway, even if the balls don't skid. They deform the material by pressing and it moves from place to place. Thank you for your comment sir !
@@JIMMY916 My comment only referred to the scratches you mentioned in the video.
@@machinists-shortcuts Yes, I know ! No doubt.
Maybe the balls work harden the metal and periodically it gets too hard to roll down flat so it rides over the hard spot and starts over, then repeats causing the waves. Be interesting to run it over again but at 90 deg angle to see what happens to the waves.
Make the ball not exactly concentric lets say .25mm.
Very good idea. Thank you very much !
2:30 your chips have no color so you don't need that toxic mist.
Thank you for all your comments ! I will take into account your experience and I appreciate all the information you have given me. The role of this video was to present a tool and discover with your help how it can be improved. Finally, I will use carefully analyze all your comments and improve this tool. Thank you very much !
Maybe reduce the contact pressure
I thought about it too and I actually tested this theory after filming. Low pressure = no effect. (unfortunately) . Thank you very much for your comment !
And deburr the part before polishing i think the balls catch the burr a drag across the surface.
@@arturperreira5680 The balls had to be hidden better. Here is a miscalculation on my part. Thank you for your comment Artur !