Well that's one fancy tapping block! Good job! You even left plenty of room underneath for chips to evacuate. As far as nobody ever designing something like this before... everything's been designed before, but don't let that get in your way. I've got something like this from the 1940s that's designed for watchmakers. When I'm making tapping blocks I usually just go with a scrap of 4140, drill a hole in it for the major diameter, hollow the bottom out a little, and harden it so the threads of the tap don't bite into it. I've always got magnets laying around for setup so if I need it on a vertical/overhead surface I can just grab them. A hint to make things go a little smoother with your tapping on the lathe and mill - if you countersink/chamfer the hole first you'll have an easier time starting the tap and won't risk damaging a thread.
If someone thought of a tool before me, it means that I was born late. In the end, I will have an idea that no one has had before me. I hope you won't get bored of me until than :)) As for chamfer the hole, I know that I do many things upside down. Something learned incorrectly can hardly be corrected. I assure you that I will do it in the correct order from now on. Thank you for another free lesson !
G’da that was a very interesting watching you make that which is a brilliant idea and it was a real credit to you how you crafted it. Look after yourself regards John
I think my electric motor is too weak for aluminum cutting. My band is 8 tpi. That probably forces him. Or the speed is inappropriate. Thank you for your information !
The hollow and solid cone alignment part is a good idea. Even better if we can integrate an edge finder to the shank. Any slight offset may be detected by our fingernail.
Hi.. At 19:43 you should support your tap with the tailstock to ensure that its straight. Tailstock and live or dead center. Great Project and tank you for sharing
As an alternative, match a nut to the tap as a perpendicular guide on a flat surface. Also we can upgrade the nut with a base flange for better alignment control. Unless we do threading on a sheet metal and to avoid critical stress related failure, all threading taps are self alignment as it sink into the hole with cross section aspect ration of >1.
Yes, a good alternative is to use a nut. Unfortunately, I don't have any nuts other than the extremely common ones. Thats why I thought of this centering device. But your idea is very good and I'm glad that you write to me and I learn new things. Thank you very much !
I didn't think of this myself and I've tapped lots of holes where I could have used it. For threading something that can be clamped on the mill bed or into the lathe chuck or on the drill press, center the workpiece hole under the chuck (where it already is if you just drilled the hole), and hold the tap between centers, using the center hole on the end of most (all?) taps. If you have one, use a spring loaded tap follower in the tailstock or drill chuck. Otherwise, chuck a pointed rod and apply light pressure manually to hold the tap in place. Or rig up a rubber band.
What I don't understand is why you think that all the holes and threads are machine made I will give you only one example where you methods cannot be used. A screw on an engine block of a car that pulled the thread and it has to be redone to an increased size, my tool guarantees perfect alignment (your methods is useless). I am sure that our imagination does not stop at using this tool only on the lathe or milling machine where it is obvious useless. I am amazed at the confusion...It is an mobile tool, if you want.
@@JIMMY916 Yes, that's perfectly true. The method I saw used in some video is primarily useful immediately after drilling the hole when the workpiece is already clamped perfectly in place under the chuck.
You are right after all. I am the one who had to be perfectly explicit because I am the one who presented a new concept for the first time. If there is confusion, it means that I was not clear enough. I will be very careful about this aspect from now on. I promise. Thank you Edward for your comments !
Yes, I will be more careful. Bad habits are hard to correct. Three months ago I was working with gloves.. Thank you very much for your advice. People like you have corrected many of my mistakes.
@@pvtimberfaller Needle nosed pliers is best, then you don't forget an take a shortcut and leave gloves on and lose a finger or your hand. Gloves have no place being near a machine of this type
I cut such thick aluminum rods without problems with 12 tpi bandsaws, but a bit coarser, say 8 tpi, is better. You don't need too high sawing pressure. You do need a sharp sawblade and a coolant/lubricant. Instead of the expensive and dirty WD40 use alcohol. Regular bio ethanol from the supermarket. Cheap, lubricates sufficiently and cools. And it leaves no traces of grease after evaporation. But the most important thing when using alcohol is that the teeth don't get clogged with that soft aluminum. For the sawing speed I keep the following: Steel 60 meters per minute and aluminum 120-150 meters per minute.
I didn't pay attention to a detail I noticed about my band. Not all teeth are the same size. They are 8 tpi but some are smaller in height than others (factory made). For cutting steel I am very satisfied with the cutting speed, only with aluminum it is difficult. This band was the most expensive on offer. I will try the alcohol method. I didn't know that was an option. Thanks for the info Michel !
@@JIMMY916 That's the vari-tooth design for quickly cutting thought steel, when the surface finish is not that important. Not ideal for aluminium, but it should cut.
I think there are several problems. Every comment I received suggest a fix. Inappropriate cutting band (even if it is 8 tpi), too low speed, pressure adjustment, lack of lubrication. Every advice can improve my situation and my conclusion is that, I will fix all these aspects following your advice. The cutting time depends on many possibly wrong settings that I neglected. I will fix the problems one by one and I hope to succeed. Thank you for the advice.
Are you sure your bandsaw blade is 8 tpi? That is the ideal tooth count for aluminum, and in my opinion, pretty coarse for cutting steel. I use around 14 tpi for steel. Maybe use something like WD40 when cutting aluminum. That does seem to help evacuate chips and make it cut a little faster.
Yes, it's 8 tpi. I think there is something wrong with the cutting speed. It's either too small or too high. I will use wd40. Maybe thats the problem. Or maybe the shape of the teeth is inappropiate for aluminum. Thank you very much for your comment !
For me it is very complicated to make this improvement... True, all profesional band saws have this option., but mine is a hobby toy. I will spray wd40 and I think I will better results. Thank you for your suggestion :)
Try WD40 when cutting aluminum if you have access to it. If you are running 8tpi that should cut just fine. I know there is a feed pressure adjustment on bandsaws, maybe it is set too light? See if you can get soluble oil coolant and flood the blade. I like to put a box or piece of plywood under my bandsaw to catch parts so they don’t get damaged, saves your floor too.
Yes, it has a cut pressure adjustment that I have never adjusted. When I get to the workshop I will increase the pressure. I think that was the problem. God bless you. God bless you all for your help.
I recommend the use of WD-40 when machining aluminum and threading, as far as cutting it I would simply get a blade with half the tooth count of what you have right now. I don't know but I'm guessing you are running some where around 28 to 32tpi right now and I would try a 14 to 18 tpi blade for aluminum, a larger chip wont pack up like the fine tooth blade when cutting soft materials. A fine tooth blade will pack in aluminum and not allow it to clear which will slow down the cut, spraying it will a little WD-40 will help but not a lot. You could also try a saw blade lubricant stick which helps to keep shavings from packing into the blade. It's like a wax mixed with other stuff and you press it up against the side of the blade while it's running to deposit some on the blade to help. Olson makes one that I have used in the past with a fair amount of luck.
I didn't think to use wd40 for cutting. I have used cutting oil on other occasions but without noticeable results. I will try your method. So the cutting band is not the problem ? I'm glad if that's the case. Thank you for your suggestion ! And for your time.
@@JIMMY916 The rule of thumb is the harder the material the more tpi you need. Aluminum is very soft so I recommend a courser tooth blade. I agree with the comment below about coolant but it isn't always practical with a hobby machinist so that's why I recommend a blade in the 14 to 18 tpi range and a lube stick, another trick I have done in the past is to place a blow down gun blowing sideways across the blade blowing the chips off the teeth as it comes out of the cut, again not practical but it helps a little bit.
Could it be the wrong speed for aluminum ? Is there a rule for cutting aluminum quickly ? For cutting steel I am very satisfied, only with aluminum it is difficult. My guess is that I am wrong here. Thank you for your time !
Thanks for another video but I do have a question or two. Since the subject of this video is insuring Tap alignment with the drilled hole I see a glaring contradiction @ 19:20. To remedy this issue on a lathe we don't need a jig to do it. The TailStock's Jacobs Chuck will align the tap for you. Now, when we are at the drill press we have similar tooling. We have another Jacobs chuck in line with the hole you just drilled. The moral of this is ... learn to use your machines (and shop practices) to their fullest abilities before resorting to over engineering the task at hand. JMO Wakodahatchee Chris
I assure you that the filet came out well. Its role is to support a magnet, nothing more And I know that being a long hole and made of aluminum, the tap is self-centering. If i were to redo this piece, I would do it exactly the same way. And so many say that I get involved even when it's not necessary Now it really wasn't necessary even if that's a "contradiction". :)) Thank you Chris for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 Jimmy, I didn't see or say anything about the pocket that seats the magnet. My comments were confined to Tapping only. Please reread what I posted. By the way, that comment you made about a tap self aligning in deep holes gave me chills! If you stick with that philosophy I would fully expect the dreaded.. "SNAP"!
@@JIMMY916 No, I don't think either, but someday it might be an extremely fragile 2-56 or 4-40 thread. I read through some of the comments left by others and something in particular grabbed my attention. There were viewers that complained about the length of this video. Comments like (I'm paraphrasing).."We don't need to see every single pass on the lathe". Your retort was "Those viewers that don't need to see it will just fast forward through that stuff". You then expressed the importance of keeping that footage for the less experienced. Jim, In keeping with that philosophy I stand by my disapproval of that tapping segment on the lathe. I think you know better and the "Shop Smart" methods that would have pleased your shop teacher. I know when I have to piss I tend to rush things! 😜 Motto to live by: Good shop practice takes practice! 🥰 Peace, young brother Jim
Hello, my big brother Chris :)) Six months ago, when I posted my first video, I was thinking about who would subscribe to my channel ? It never occurred to me that my audience would consist of professional machinist, teachers or engineers with almost 50 years of experience. This amazes me and honors me in the same time. I get free tips and lessons from the best. But unfortunately all this comes with a big downside. I can't impress you at all and that doesn't help me at all. I feel like if I were building a plane in my huge workshop, apart from ”nice work” we'd be talking about the paint it should be painted with. Nothing about project :)) Of course, I'm exaggerating now but you get what I mean. It would be unfair to say that I don't also receive extremely positive and encouraging comments, but I have friends who seem to intentionally avoid giving me feedback on the final product. Positive or negative, it doesn't matter. I think it's too early to ask that of you right now. My case is probably identical to that of a driver who has been driving for a year and already wants to participate in races. I have to remind myself that: it is an honor that you subscribe to my channel And yes, it is. It's just that sometimes I'm in a hurry. God bless you Chris
Very clever however the clip is too detailed. We do not need to see all cuts to get the diameter or the whole process of drilling. I am assuming that whoever needs this tool is already familiar with using lathe.
The videos on youtube that presented details in an explicit way as I present, taught me to work on the lathe. The presentation of details is for people like me. I am convinced that the experienced ones only look at the end. He is not interested in the production process at all. Thank you for your comment and for your appreciation !
@@JIMMY916Exactly!!! I love the detail and the lessons thereof. Even the sound of the turning is a reference guide to those of us finding our way to the light. Keep up the great work brother. I enjoyed every second of the class/video.
This is a great idea and video. The use of magnets with tools I think is a great idea and time saver.
Thanks for sharing.
@@joewhitney4097 Thank you very much for the appreciation ! It means a lot to me.
Well that's one fancy tapping block! Good job! You even left plenty of room underneath for chips to evacuate. As far as nobody ever designing something like this before... everything's been designed before, but don't let that get in your way. I've got something like this from the 1940s that's designed for watchmakers.
When I'm making tapping blocks I usually just go with a scrap of 4140, drill a hole in it for the major diameter, hollow the bottom out a little, and harden it so the threads of the tap don't bite into it. I've always got magnets laying around for setup so if I need it on a vertical/overhead surface I can just grab them.
A hint to make things go a little smoother with your tapping on the lathe and mill - if you countersink/chamfer the hole first you'll have an easier time starting the tap and won't risk damaging a thread.
If someone thought of a tool before me, it means that I was born late. In the end, I will have an idea that no one has had before me. I hope you won't get bored of me until than :)) As for chamfer the hole, I know that I do many things upside down. Something learned incorrectly can hardly be corrected. I assure you that I will do it in the correct order from now on. Thank you for another free lesson !
G’da that was a very interesting watching you make that which is a brilliant idea and it was a real credit to you how you crafted it. Look after yourself regards John
I am honored by your kind words. They are the encouragement I need to continue. And for that, my friend John, you made a happy man today.
Nice work Bud! Those holes look pretty straight now!
@@clintchapman4319 Thank you very much !
If it helps I use a variable pitch bandsaw blade for solid (not tubular) aluminium of 4-6 tpi it makes a massive speed difference.
I think my electric motor is too weak for aluminum cutting. My band is 8 tpi. That probably forces him. Or the speed is inappropriate. Thank you for your information !
Awesome, definitely worth it sir, you've made a great tool... DAMN i would've like it a lot to be your neighbor ❗❗❗
Unfortunately, we are not neighbors. But we are certainly brothers. Thank you very much for your nice words !
nicely done! very handy
@@DK-vx1zc Thank you very much for your appreciation !
The hollow and solid cone alignment part is a good idea. Even better if we can integrate an edge finder to the shank. Any slight offset may be detected by our fingernail.
Correct ! Good and equally simple option. I will use it. Thank you !
Hi.. At 19:43 you should support your tap with the tailstock to ensure that its straight. Tailstock and live or dead center. Great Project and tank you for sharing
Hi ! Thank you for your appreciation and suggestion ! Next time I will be more careful.
As an alternative, match a nut to the tap as a perpendicular guide on a flat surface. Also we can upgrade the nut with a base flange for better alignment control.
Unless we do threading on a sheet metal and to avoid critical stress related failure, all threading taps are self alignment as it sink into the hole with cross section aspect ration of >1.
Yes, a good alternative is to use a nut. Unfortunately, I don't have any nuts other than the extremely common ones. Thats why I thought of this centering device. But your idea is very good and I'm glad that you write to me and I learn new things. Thank you very much !
I didn't think of this myself and I've tapped lots of holes where I could have used it. For threading something that can be clamped on the mill bed or into the lathe chuck or on the drill press, center the workpiece hole under the chuck (where it already is if you just drilled the hole), and hold the tap between centers, using the center hole on the end of most (all?) taps. If you have one, use a spring loaded tap follower in the tailstock or drill chuck. Otherwise, chuck a pointed rod and apply light pressure manually to hold the tap in place. Or rig up a rubber band.
What I don't understand is why you think that all the holes and threads are machine made I will give you only one example where you methods cannot be used. A screw on an engine block of a car that pulled the thread and it has to be redone to an increased size, my tool guarantees perfect alignment (your methods is useless). I am sure that our imagination does not stop at using this tool only on the lathe or milling machine where it is obvious useless. I am amazed at the confusion...It is an mobile tool, if you want.
@@JIMMY916 Yes, that's perfectly true. The method I saw used in some video is primarily useful immediately after drilling the hole when the workpiece is already clamped perfectly in place under the chuck.
You are right after all. I am the one who had to be perfectly explicit because I am the one who presented a new concept for the first time. If there is confusion, it means that I was not clear enough. I will be very careful about this aspect from now on. I promise. Thank you Edward for your comments !
Please, don't be grabbing those chips while that chuck is spinning. It's a bad habit.
Yes, I will be more careful. Bad habits are hard to correct. Three months ago I was working with gloves.. Thank you very much for your advice. People like you have corrected many of my mistakes.
@@JIMMY916However it is good to use gloves to remove chips, they will cut you badly.
@@pvtimberfaller Yes, when the chuck is not spinning. I learn my lesson :))
@@pvtimberfaller Needle nosed pliers is best, then you don't forget an take a shortcut and leave gloves on and lose a finger or your hand.
Gloves have no place being near a machine of this type
I cut such thick aluminum rods without problems with 12 tpi bandsaws, but a bit coarser, say 8 tpi, is better. You don't need too high sawing pressure. You do need a sharp sawblade and a coolant/lubricant. Instead of the expensive and dirty WD40 use alcohol. Regular bio ethanol from the supermarket. Cheap, lubricates sufficiently and cools. And it leaves no traces of grease after evaporation. But the most important thing when using alcohol is that the teeth don't get clogged with that soft aluminum. For the sawing speed I keep the following: Steel 60 meters per minute and aluminum 120-150 meters per minute.
I didn't pay attention to a detail I noticed about my band. Not all teeth are the same size. They are 8 tpi but some are smaller in height than others (factory made). For cutting steel I am very satisfied with the cutting speed, only with aluminum it is difficult. This band was the most expensive on offer. I will try the alcohol method. I didn't know that was an option. Thanks for the info Michel !
@@JIMMY916 That's the vari-tooth design for quickly cutting thought steel, when the surface finish is not that important. Not ideal for aluminium, but it should cut.
I think there are several problems. Every comment I received suggest a fix. Inappropriate cutting band (even if it is 8 tpi), too low speed, pressure adjustment, lack of lubrication. Every advice can improve my situation and my conclusion is that, I will fix all these aspects following your advice. The cutting time depends on many possibly wrong settings that I neglected. I will fix the problems one by one and I hope to succeed. Thank you for the advice.
Are you sure your bandsaw blade is 8 tpi? That is the ideal tooth count for aluminum, and in my opinion, pretty coarse for cutting steel. I use around 14 tpi for steel. Maybe use something like WD40 when cutting aluminum. That does seem to help evacuate chips and make it cut a little faster.
Yes, it's 8 tpi. I think there is something wrong with the cutting speed. It's either too small or too high. I will use wd40. Maybe thats the problem. Or maybe the shape of the teeth is inappropiate for aluminum. Thank you very much for your comment !
best band saw improvement is coolant with pump
For me it is very complicated to make this improvement... True, all profesional band saws have this option., but mine is a hobby toy. I will spray wd40 and I think I will better results. Thank you for your suggestion :)
Try WD40 when cutting aluminum if you have access to it.
If you are running 8tpi that should cut just fine.
I know there is a feed pressure adjustment on bandsaws, maybe it is set too light?
See if you can get soluble oil coolant and flood the blade.
I like to put a box or piece of plywood under my bandsaw to catch parts so they don’t get damaged, saves your floor too.
Yes, it has a cut pressure adjustment that I have never adjusted. When I get to the workshop I will increase the pressure. I think that was the problem. God bless you. God bless you all for your help.
I recommend the use of WD-40 when machining aluminum and threading, as far as cutting it I would simply get a blade with half the tooth count of what you have right now. I don't know but I'm guessing you are running some where around 28 to 32tpi right now and I would try a 14 to 18 tpi blade for aluminum, a larger chip wont pack up like the fine tooth blade when cutting soft materials. A fine tooth blade will pack in aluminum and not allow it to clear which will slow down the cut, spraying it will a little WD-40 will help but not a lot.
You could also try a saw blade lubricant stick which helps to keep shavings from packing into the blade. It's like a wax mixed with other stuff and you press it up against the side of the blade while it's running to deposit some on the blade to help. Olson makes one that I have used in the past with a fair amount of luck.
I didn't think to use wd40 for cutting. I have used cutting oil on other occasions but without noticeable results. I will try your method. So the cutting band is not the problem ? I'm glad if that's the case. Thank you for your suggestion ! And for your time.
@@JIMMY916 The rule of thumb is the harder the material the more tpi you need. Aluminum is very soft so I recommend a courser tooth blade. I agree with the comment below about coolant but it isn't always practical with a hobby machinist so that's why I recommend a blade in the 14 to 18 tpi range and a lube stick, another trick I have done in the past is to place a blow down gun blowing sideways across the blade blowing the chips off the teeth as it comes out of the cut, again not practical but it helps a little bit.
Could it be the wrong speed for aluminum ? Is there a rule for cutting aluminum quickly ? For cutting steel I am very satisfied, only with aluminum it is difficult. My guess is that I am wrong here. Thank you for your time !
Thanks for another video but I do have a question or two. Since the subject of this video is insuring Tap alignment with the drilled hole I see a glaring contradiction @ 19:20. To remedy this issue on a lathe we don't need a jig to do it. The TailStock's Jacobs Chuck will align the tap for you. Now, when we are at the drill press we have similar tooling. We have another Jacobs chuck in line with the hole you just drilled. The moral of this is ... learn to use your machines (and shop practices) to their fullest abilities before resorting to over engineering the task at hand. JMO
Wakodahatchee Chris
I assure you that the filet came out well. Its role is to support a magnet, nothing more And I know that being a long hole and made of aluminum, the tap is self-centering. If i were to redo this piece, I would do it exactly the same way. And so many say that I get involved even when it's not necessary Now it really wasn't necessary even if that's a "contradiction". :)) Thank you Chris for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 Jimmy, I didn't see or say anything about the pocket that seats the magnet. My comments were confined to Tapping only. Please reread what I posted. By the way, that comment you made about a tap self aligning in deep holes gave me chills! If you stick with that philosophy I would fully expect the dreaded.. "SNAP"!
@cdrive5757 Please be honest Chris. Do you think the tap broke or the thread came out crooked ?
@@JIMMY916 No, I don't think either, but someday it might be an extremely fragile 2-56 or 4-40 thread. I read through some of the comments left by others and something in particular grabbed my attention. There were viewers that complained about the length of this video. Comments like (I'm paraphrasing).."We don't need to see every single pass on the lathe". Your retort was "Those viewers that don't need to see it will just fast forward through that stuff". You then expressed the importance of keeping that footage for the less experienced.
Jim, In keeping with that philosophy I stand by my disapproval of that tapping segment on the lathe. I think you know better and the "Shop Smart" methods that would have pleased your shop teacher. I know when I have to piss I tend to rush things! 😜 Motto to live by: Good shop practice takes practice! 🥰
Peace, young brother Jim
Hello, my big brother Chris :)) Six months ago, when I posted my first video, I was thinking about who would subscribe to my channel ? It never occurred to me that my audience would consist of professional machinist, teachers or engineers with almost 50 years of experience. This amazes me and honors me in the same time. I get free tips and lessons from the best. But unfortunately all this comes with a big downside. I can't impress you at all and that doesn't help me at all. I feel like if I were building a plane in my huge workshop, apart from ”nice work” we'd be talking about the paint it should be painted with. Nothing about project :)) Of course, I'm exaggerating now but you get what I mean. It would be unfair to say that I don't also receive extremely positive and encouraging comments, but I have friends who seem to intentionally avoid giving me feedback on the final product. Positive or negative, it doesn't matter. I think it's too early to ask that of you right now. My case is probably identical to that of a driver who has been driving for a year and already wants to participate in races. I have to remind myself that: it is an honor that you subscribe to my channel And yes, it is. It's just that sometimes I'm in a hurry. God bless you Chris
Very clever however the clip is too detailed. We do not need to see all cuts to get the diameter or the whole process of drilling. I am assuming that whoever needs this tool is already familiar with using lathe.
The videos on youtube that presented details in an explicit way as I present, taught me to work on the lathe. The presentation of details is for people like me. I am convinced that the experienced ones only look at the end. He is not interested in the production process at all. Thank you for your comment and for your appreciation !
@@JIMMY916Exactly!!! I love the detail and the lessons thereof. Even the sound of the turning is a reference guide to those of us finding our way to the light. Keep up the great work brother. I enjoyed every second of the class/video.
These are too big words for a beginner like me, but for that I thank you. God bless you for the encouragement, my brother !
Page 12:15 did we have a boring head to this job?
Yes sir. ”NO MISTAKE ALLOWED” is probably the video you reffer.
Carbon steel blades
Crystal clear.
Ça sert à rien de serrer la pièce trois fois
I know. Habit 😊