1. I like to see the dog helping in the workshop! 2. It is excellent to see someone using a lathe with only pure skill. No digital readouts and rarely using automatic feed 3. Would you consider making a shield to keep chips, coolant and lube out of the motor?
I am honored by your comment. The fact that you appreciate my work and give me a suggestion to improve my equpment, I will be proud to think that you are my friend. And yes, I will make a shield for the motor. Thank you !
It always helps to use the correct surface speed for the material you are cutting. The way that I find out what speed to use is by facing. By taking a finish facing cut you will notice that as the cut progresses to the center there is a point where the finish gets rough, making machine tears. Scale the diameter at which the finish goes bad, calculate the SFM speed at that diameter and stay above that surface speed.
True, but I hate changing the gears on my lathe because it changes by moving two belts on three pulleys. I don't have any lever to do this. But in the future I will try your recommendation. It is a correct one. Thank you very much !
What you have made here is called a burnishing tool. There are many other designs here on RUclips, some complicated, some simple, but most dont need such a large roller bearing and are much smaller in general, similar in size to a standard lathe tool. I can link to some other videos if you're interested? Some of them have even released the drawings for free
The model that inspired me is from an old lathe book. The name in the book was ”Flattener for lathe” and it contained two bearings. I chose to use a large bearing and a small ball in order not to stress the edges of the ball seat. The larger the bearing, the better the ball sits on it and does not stress the walls of the hole where it is located. And the component that covers the bearing and can move is my invention. Its purpose is not to leave the bearing exposed, not to spread oil everywhere, to center the ball and another purpose that will appear in a future video. Thank you for your comment !
I made one of these three months ago, copying a design by Mario Guzzi. I don't need to have a complicated centring device because I use a Multifix style quick change tool post and it's easy to set the height. It works well and you use a push roller baring tool for straightening up thin work in a chuck to roll over the edges of the ball bearing hole to hold the bearing in place and to harden and consolidate it almost like forging it. This works very well.
@@nlkatz Please make me understand.. I had to finish the tool in 10 min. or you didn't want to scroll ahead if you were impatient to see the end? I'm curious if you watch a movie and the main actor doesn't die in the first 10 min, do you change the movie ? No offense but I don't really understand what you want !? Thank you anyway !
@@JIMMY916 Well, yes. Why would I want to spend the time, which I don't have a lot of, to watch a bunch of machining mostly unrelated to the topic? Other youtubers minimize this by speeding up preliminary video content. Better yet, just say you were having trouble with surface finish and get right to the point with the tool that addresses it.
A nice neat design! And it works very well. I've watched a few of your videos now and I have a comment to make about the finishes you lathe leaves on the work. I have noticed that at times you turn up to the chuck and stop the lathe WITHOUT removing the tool from the work and then proceed to move the carriage to the right to clear the work. I can guess that you wish to preserve the diameter setting as you do not have a DRO, but in doing it the way you do, it CAN and when using carbide insert tooling it WILL damage the cutting edge almost every time.mit is the next operation you will probably notice that the surface finish is less than perfect. You then absolutely need to have this tool you have made. If you don't do stop the machine with the carbide tool engaged you won't need your flattening or burnishing tool anywhere near as much. I've made a similar tool a few months ago but I've only had to use it once, because my lathe ( which is almost exactly like yours, with the exception that you have a different saddle with a larger table, and your milling head has a separate motor where mine is driven from the headstock by a selectable dog clutch that either drives the chuck spindle it the milling head) can produce a reasonably good surface finish using the tool and a small bit of emery cloth to get a good finish.
I never stop the lathe without stopping the lead screw feed first or most of the time I use the longitudinal feed manually and stop advancing before stopping the lathe. I even move back a bit. Carbide insert does not work when it stops even if it is in the same position, it does not press to make chips (not engaged). Thats is why I assure you that it does not suffer damage. I have watched other lathed surface from other videos by others and they are not better. The only difference is that I use a larger zoom and the imperfections thus become visibile. :)) The huge benefit of the flattering or burnishing tool is not that it mekes a mirror surface but produces a harder surface through multiple passes, a fact that no other finishing or turning method produces. That's why I think it's a ”must have” for any machinist. As for perfecting the turned surface only with the lathe, I learned some methods from you that surely make me a better student (higher speed, knife position, sharpening method). But burnishing tool is not only mirror surface. I learned this from your comments and thank you for that as well.
Interesting take on a burnishing tool, a little bulky for my tastes. Most external burnishing tools pinch the part for a reason, you put a lot of sideways pressure on the work when you do this. I'd recommend using your follow rest if you want to do this on anything longer than a few cm.
The "bulky" model is my concept.I chose a large bearing to increase the contact area with the ball and I don't want to completely copy the existing models because then I don't really see the point of filming myself. Whether it is a successful and sustainable model remains to be seen. Right now it's perfectly functional and I'll be using it for a long time to come.(I hope) Any problem that arises I will film and explain. Thank you for your comment and technical suggestions !
Yes. The part that appears in the movie was thinned by 0.06 mm. (0.03 mm radius) The same difference is regardless of the thickness of the part, but it depends on the roughness of the turning over which the ball passes. This difference applies to the fine turning in the video. If you still need an answer, please don't hesitate to ask me. Thank you very much for the message !
In all videos from now on that will contain turned parts. Where I have to sand the surfaces with sandpaper I will use this tool. Thank you for your comment !
My doubts: 1)if higher pressure is better so smaller ball should be used? 2)I a saw a video using a small cilinder instead a ball of a ball bearing with same results then why not use just a ball bearing, i mean same device some people uses for centering the piece? 3)Is that better than polishing or should be before/after polishing? Thanks.
1. A small ball flattens more effectively than a large ball. Being a smaller contact surface, its efficiency increases and the pressure doe not have to be as high as with a large ball 2. Model that contains a small cylinder has the advantage of being to able to approach the end of the part, but not the entaire surface of the cylinder is in the contact with the part, but only the tip of the small cylinder. 3. The smoother the surface, the less stress is placed on the ball and the better the results. Thank you for watching !
It looks like the tool slightly deforms the part and reduces the diameter. do you know if the amount can be controlled / predicted? or for precise dimensions will you always need a test part and a way to repeatably apply the same pressure?
When the ball touches the part, the scale is adjusted to 0 mm. Pressing will be indicated by the scale of the lathe. A first test is needed to see how much to compress the part until the desired finish is reached. For harder materials, more passes are required but with the same result. I did not do this test, but I think that the part must be turned to a larger diameter by approx. 0,03-0,04 mm so that after finishing it remains at the desired diameter. The first time I use it, I will also film this aspect. Thank you for your comment and for your interest !
I believe that taking a measurement with a Palmer caliper BEFORE the "burnishing" threatment, is a false value, the caliper only sees the "montains tops". After "threatment" montains-tops became only "hills" and thereafter ( with a third pass ) ... just plain surface. Of couse the problem is "AT WHAT DIAMETER STOP LATHING" ... or - otherwise - go on with alternative multiple passes, lathing, burnishing, and then lathing again ... ? I built up an equivalent tool i saw from U-Tube, i used a ( ? ) hard stone ball escaping out from an old equipment ( having not diamond balls to discard ... ). The tool is very tiny, made of a bore through an hex steel bar ( could be equally a square one ), 100 mm in lenght, 12 mm type, a bit reduced to fit in my tool post : there i inserted the ball, a spring, then a metal ball and a screw at the end to make some type of regulation in tension. It works, lubrification is a must if you don't want to see the ball fast become an "half ball". I have to say i'm only an hobbist, moreover my lathe is a chinese one 7 x 12 inches, so i'm not pretending to be a "master", this is only my experience. ( i'm playing with my lathe from 2006 ). I also need a suggestion ... if anybody can help me. I noticed my lathed pieces come out in a tapered shape instead that cylindrical. For 10,00 millimeters travels toward chuck, i lost 0,01 millimeters. This is not depending from any "flection" of the piece, 0,5 mm pass and 0,1 mm pass give me identical result. Nor anything changes if i lathe the piece from right or from left, so i discard the idea of the tool becaming hot ( and so longer ... ), the piece is always thinner near the chuck, and always of the some amount ... Nor using tailstock changes anything ... I believe my spin in not lined up with guides ... How could i solve this problem ? Working "between points" instead gives me a perfect cylindrical shape, as i carefully adjusted the tail-stock position ... Or ... is this error "the better i can get" from a chinese lathe ? ( not adjustments provided, if you ever have seen a chinese lathe ... under the spin box there is only a "V" ( inverted ) shape to fit against guides, nothing else ... can i use some metal thin pieces ( 0,03 millimeters thick ) under the spin box to correct this error ? Thank you very much for any help or suggestions ...
@@alessandroandrenacci2372 the error definitely sounds like the ways of your lathe aren't true and aligned. I'd suggest getting a precise level and shiming the feet of your lathe to make the bed as level as you can manage. from what I know, only after truing up the bed should you try shimming the headstock
@@Stellar_Lake_sys thank you very much for your kind answer, i hope you are going to solve my problem ... as my spin is pointing not toward me, but to the opposite side ( in fact i get lower diameters nearer to chuck ), what foot of the right side of the lathe shall i lift up ? Thank you again for your help and patience ... ... and my best regards from Italy ...
I know that every lathe has an adjustment for flatness. This adjustment for your lathe is done by turning the three or four screws that are behind the chuck. Through the holes of the flange that supports the chuck and that remains attached to the lathe, insert a screwdriver and turn gently. Ther are three or four screws behind the flange.Through repeat checks you will reach the desired result. In conclusion, the screwdriver behind the chuck are for adjustment and any lathe has flatness adjustments (be it chinese too). I hope it helps you and solve this problem. Thank you for your comment!
Regarding the lathe, is that product of Emco Maier? (I have Emco Maier Maximat 11, & it looks very similar, having milling head, but it is mounted in the middle of the bed, not at headstock end.) When you pressed that pulley on, you should never apply pressure on the sheaves, as they can crack on cast-iron pulley. Ring-shim should be placed to put pressure on the hub, not the sheave. What you have made is a metal burnisher. It's sort of like knurling, but with smooth, hardened tool. What does it do to dimension (diameter)? How much do you need to machine "over" to compensate?
It is an italian model. Damatomacchine DM 550. I t is manufactured in 2016. As for the dimensions of the part shown, the differences are 0.05 mm smaller after the ball passes over the turned surface. 0.025 mm radius. I assume that this difference will be identical regardless of the diameter of the part. Thank you for your comment !
The bearing was pressed by pressing the inner ring on that shaft, the outer ring was not pressed. It's the only correct way I know to press a bearing. I hope this is what your comment refers to. Thank you!
Regarding the difficulty getting work to run true in chuck: you should face outer end first, then turn around in chuck with faced side against jaws. Then face the outside end. You will have 2 faced ends square to the outside diameter. There should be no need for hammering tweak.
I made the adjustment to turn the outside. I moved the part towards the tips of the chuck jaws so as not to turn the jaws. The part was moved 2 mm to protect the jaws. The facets were turned correctly, only the outsides had to be turned. Thank you for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 You are welcome. It may be useful to prepare a few rings or disks of various diameters and a few mm thick, faced parallel on both sides, to act as a spacer to put between the chuck and a work piece. Such a spacer ring or disk would register a faced surface parallel to the chuck without needing to dial it in. Quick and easy.
If the ball is adjusted to the center of the part, then the scale of the lathe will indicate the correct values. 0,01 mm will be 0.01 mm only if we are on the centre. Pressing the ball ”thins” the part that has been turned on the lathe. The alignment should eliminate as much as possible the friction against the walls of the hole where it is located. Its misalignment would produce greater wear of the hole. Thank you for your comment !
@@liftmech9988 My workshop is so small that my puppy doesn't take more than three steps to her place. Chances are lower :)) It is indeed a problem. I have already managed to make it stop coming in.
My "invention" is the rotating component that covers the bearing and that has the role of not spread the oil everywhere, to make centering on the part easier , to not leave the bearing exposed, and a fourht use will appear in a future video. Using a ball and bearing to finish a part is not my ideea. Thank you very much for watching and for your comment!
@@JIMMY916 Jimmy, my friend. That term ("Invention") is certain to generate flack. As your fiend the best advice I can give is ...don't use it. Odds are ,.. it's probably the translation to English that gets lost. Here's a short list of English terms that best describes what we do here on RUclips Shop Practice: "My Design" , "
Damn it! RUclips did it to me again. Three or more paragraphs vanished! Use the term "My Design" instead. It will keep the Ankle Biters away! Wakodahatchee Chris
@@JIMMY916 I'd love to have a copy of it. I'm sure that Google Translates can convert it to English for me if it's a digital copy. And I appreciate it very much.
I looked in my computer and can't find them. Instead, I found them on the internet. You have to look exactly as I tell you ”Maquinaria para Carpintero AT 520 MULTI- PURPOSE MACHINE” and you will find a PDF with all the information of my model. If you need other information, please ask.
@@JIMMY916 Found it! Many thanks. Your info leads me to another link with an English version of the same machine with different company on it. AT520 seems to be a popular model
@@JIMMY916 Any chance you can provide me with the 3 belt sizes for the lathe drive? There are 2 for low speeds and a single for the higher speeds. What I have is not correct.
Maybe check if the ball is rotating freely, or there's something snagging it here and there. Because that tool should be able to deliver real mirror, but only if the ball rotates very smoothly. MAybe you need to run it longer until it positions properly and nothing catches. I watched the video with similar tool just yesterday, and it wasn't that much different, but the result was near perfect mirror, and your tool can do it, too.
There is no doubt that the ball is spinning freely. In the last test the camera is focused on the bearing and it rotates perfectly. For the real mirror I had to go over the surface one more time. I wanted to present the idea more than the perfection of the processing achieved by it. I thought it's obvious that more passes or more pressure on the part make perfect mirror. In future projects when I use it, it will be a maximum yield and the mirror will be perfect.Thank you for watching and I appreciate your advice !
@@JIMMY916 It was also not my intention to criticize you, or the tool, jst for a sake of criticizing. I may have been still under impression of that other video where the perfect mirror finish happened in the very first try, and after just one step, so it did not seem right that the same did not quite realize here. Of course, that finish may very well have been the result of decades of experience and who knows how many similar, or identical tools made in the past. This finish is in a way similar to knurling, where everything has to be just right to get the good result in one pass. In any case, just keep up the good work.
@@johnsmith-000 To be as believable as possible, I dont shoot a sequence several times, I don't do tests before shooting, thats why id doesn't always come out perfectly. There are many details that I leave out due to lack of experience. All the tools I produce are built for the first time and are used by me "live". I love filming them working "first hand" and I think the best thing about RUclips is that we learn from each other. Now I understand your comment better and understand that it is made with the best intentions. Including interpreting each message correctly is something that needs to be learned. Thank you for your message and I hope talk again!
It is an italian product DAMATOMACCHINE DM 550. The center distance is 550 mm. and the chuck size is 130 mm. It is manufactured in the year 2016. I am satisfied with it, it has no errors and work absolut perfectly. The only big drawback is that it does not have a speed lower than 160 rpm/min. Thank you for watching!
I had the exact same one but called Shop Master. It was designed by guys building race cars and they sent it off to china for mass production for them. The Chinese sold them out the back door but different names.
@@JIMMY916 cost of labor and little to no regulations. The US will probably never get back into the steel industry due to epa regulations just to start. Our steel would probably be 10x the cost of foreign steel.
The part in the video was 37.66 mm and now it is 37.60. The difference of 0.06 mm is probably valid for any part thickness. (0.03 radius). It also depends on how rough the turning is. Thank you for your comment !
Probably somewhere around 0.03mm- 0.04mm. I have not measured, but in the first video in which I will use it I will make this measurement and present it. However, it also depends on how fine the turning is. For a turning like I did, this is probably it. Thank you for watching!
@@foxwhiskey Thank you for the advice and for being kind enough to write me this. I haven't worn them since. Rough running is probably due to low speed. I'll have to change the speed gear of lathe or give up the zoom I'm shooting with:)) Thank you very much for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 ....I forgot to say...the precision of your work is fantastic, the working-process very good. For my work at the lathe I've made a similar tool, too. Greetings
@@JIMMY916 Thanks, I used to work in a machine shop and we had a guy who lost several fingers because some long stringy chips grabbed his wedding ring and acted like razors and mulched his fingers. Please Stay safe out there!
@The_Foolish_Fool Almost everyone who wrote me comments told me about terrible experiences what scares me, I can admit I work on the lathe only as a hobby, so I am not aware of the dangers. Anyway, my lathe is certainly not as a dangerous as the lathes you work on. Thanks again for writing me about these dangers, my friend !
"A risk is only a danger if you are unaware". It amazes me that every post on my channel teaches me something. That means there are only intelligent people here and I am honored by your presence. Thank you !
Yeah I'm sorry I can get the same finish with the proper speed feed and tooling. I won't even begin to think about using a burnishing tool unless I'm trying to get a 4 microfinish or something better. I can attain a 32 or even a 16 RMA finish on a daily basis day in and day out without using such a bulky device that clearly will only work for just a few setups if your parts any longer than an inch or so good luck keeping it straight with no taper
I am very curious, but from your comment I understand that you have never used this tool. If is just an opinion without the experience of using it, are you absolutely sure that you cannot be wrong in considering that tool is useless? If you want to watch my other videos, you will see that I use all the projects I have built. It will not be an exception with this one either and in the near future we will see if you are right or not. Thank you for your comment and I'm waiting for you with other opinions !
@JIMMY916 I've been a machinist 40 years now. Obviously, I have used a burnishing tool more than once. And I can tell you from experience your design is a large and clumsy design, and there are much better burnishing tools on the market today that you can probably pick up a lot cheaper than the labor cost that it took you to make that one. So does that answer your curiosity at all. I mean I have thought just by the fact that I'm throwing out figures like a four microfinish or the fact that I can turn a 32 or 16 RMA finish daily would give you some sort of inkling that I do know a bit about this trade and that I'm probably most likely a machinist because there's very few people other than a machinist that would even know what a 16 RMA finish is
I congratulate you and your career and I assure you that I respect your experience. At the moment I have no arguments to support whether it will work properly or not because unfortunately I cannot test this now, but I assure you that the failure or succes of its operation will be filmed. But both enthusiasm and failure are a part of our life. Here we don't compete with each other, we just enjoy together and I admit that sometimes I forget that too. Thank you sir !
Someday maybe I can too. Until I find someone who can explain to me how he does it, I'm doing the best I can. I'm far from knowing them all. Thank you for your time !
Instead of spending so much time fixing the face runout , you can just use a piece of brass strip , between the tool and the rotating part... Take seconds to get it running true
The oldest model of this kind that I saw was a model from the 60', only it was much more robust. Mine is from 2016. These models have advantages but also disavantages. Thank you for your comment !
If I don't let her in, she cries at the door until I let her in. He stays for a while and wants to go out. As for the gloves, I gave them up because of you and I thank you for that. I was addicted to them even though I knew it was dangerous to wear them. The last four videos are without gloves and that's how they will be from now on.
If you have skin sensitive to chemicals & oils, possibilities for hand protection are barrier creams or possibly delicate rubber gloves that fit close & tear easily. Barrier cream has its own problems. Cloth gloves are the most comfortable for handling items, but need to be kept away from any rotating machinery. Pets are a common 'fitment' in a one man workshop & can sit quietly, never presenting a problem but no doubt 'elf & safety entirely bans them!
@@pcka12 The only time you should ever allow pets in the workshop is if they're in a locked cage a dozen meters away from the machinery at the other end of the room. I don't care about your sensibilities, it's plain irresponsible.
Please enable captions. Background machine noise makes sound partially inaudible to the hearing impaired due to a lifetime of machine use. It's like the past coming back to bite you in your sorry ass.
Unfortunately I don't have the the possibility to activate the subtitles . The English subtitle option isvactive. All you have to do is press the subtitle button. I'm sorry I can't do more. Thank you!
My contribution is the shape that ensures continuous lubrication between ball and bearing, the size of the bearing (the choice of a smaller ball for a better action), the possibility of use on all types of lathes by adjusting the heigt from center. I think I came up with some original ideas in this video... I suppose that when you look at the cars around you, you consider them all the same because they have an engine and four wheels ? Thank you for your comment !
I'm sure it's a total waste of time to tell you that the surface gets harder by pressing the metal. I'm not the only one saying this, experienced machinists like you have said it. But you can probably only achieve this with quality inserts.
Thanks for sharing, don't use gloves around rotating power. It is a recipe for getting sucked into a machine and seriously injured. just google gloves, shop tools, accident , injury.
Thank you for the advice. This was the last video in which I wear them. The four videos I've made since then are without and that's how they'll all be from now on. Thank you very much !
@@JIMMY916 That is awesome! thank you, the [last thing I want to see is you or any other get hurt from this kind of thing. I witnessed a friend at work chop his hand in 2 because he got stuck. thanks for posting the videos, I know how much work they are.
I sincerely thank you for taking the time to write these things. There are very important things that you have the kindness to convey to me and for that I am very grateful.
1. I like to see the dog helping in the workshop!
2. It is excellent to see someone using a lathe with only pure skill. No digital readouts and rarely using automatic feed
3. Would you consider making a shield to keep chips, coolant and lube out of the motor?
I am honored by your comment. The fact that you appreciate my work and give me a suggestion to improve my equpment, I will be proud to think that you are my friend. And yes, I will make a shield for the motor. Thank you !
It always helps to use the correct surface speed for the material you are cutting. The way that I find out what speed to use is by facing. By taking a finish facing cut you will notice that as the cut progresses to the center there is a point where the finish gets rough, making machine tears. Scale the diameter at which the finish goes bad, calculate the SFM speed at that diameter and stay above that surface speed.
True, but I hate changing the gears on my lathe because it changes by moving two belts on three pulleys. I don't have any lever to do this. But in the future I will try your recommendation. It is a correct one. Thank you very much !
I've seen a similar tool, does the same thing just designed different. It's nice to see different ways to do the same thing
@@trashpandapi9905 Thank you for your comment !
What you have made here is called a burnishing tool. There are many other designs here on RUclips, some complicated, some simple, but most dont need such a large roller bearing and are much smaller in general, similar in size to a standard lathe tool.
I can link to some other videos if you're interested? Some of them have even released the drawings for free
The model that inspired me is from an old lathe book. The name in the book was ”Flattener for lathe” and it contained two bearings. I chose to use a large bearing and a small ball in order not to stress the edges of the ball seat. The larger the bearing, the better the ball sits on it and does not stress the walls of the hole where it is located. And the component that covers the bearing and can move is my invention. Its purpose is not to leave the bearing exposed, not to spread oil everywhere, to center the ball and another purpose that will appear in a future video. Thank you for your comment !
I made one of these three months ago, copying a design by Mario Guzzi. I don't need to have a complicated centring device because I use a Multifix style quick change tool post and it's easy to set the height. It works well and you use a push roller baring tool for straightening up thin work in a chuck to roll over the edges of the ball bearing hole to hold the bearing in place and to harden and consolidate it almost like forging it. This works very well.
I'd appreciate the links.
I lost patience after watching for 10 min and not seeing anything related to the title.
Thanks
@@nlkatz Please make me understand.. I had to finish the tool in 10 min. or you didn't want to scroll ahead if you were impatient to see the end? I'm curious if you watch a movie and the main actor doesn't die in the first 10 min, do you change the movie ? No offense but I don't really understand what you want !? Thank you anyway !
@@JIMMY916 Well, yes.
Why would I want to spend the time, which I don't have a lot of, to watch a bunch of machining mostly unrelated to the topic?
Other youtubers minimize this by speeding up preliminary video content.
Better yet, just say you were having trouble with surface finish and get right to the point with the tool that addresses it.
A nice neat design! And it works very well. I've watched a few of your videos now and I have a comment to make about the finishes you lathe leaves on the work. I have noticed that at times you turn up to the chuck and stop the lathe WITHOUT removing the tool from the work and then proceed to move the carriage to the right to clear the work. I can guess that you wish to preserve the diameter setting as you do not have a DRO, but in doing it the way you do, it CAN and when using carbide insert tooling it WILL damage the cutting edge almost every time.mit is the next operation you will probably notice that the surface finish is less than perfect. You then absolutely need to have this tool you have made. If you don't do stop the machine with the carbide tool engaged you won't need your flattening or burnishing tool anywhere near as much. I've made a similar tool a few months ago but I've only had to use it once, because my lathe ( which is almost exactly like yours, with the exception that you have a different saddle with a larger table, and your milling head has a separate motor where mine is driven from the headstock by a selectable dog clutch that either drives the chuck spindle it the milling head) can produce a reasonably good surface finish using the tool and a small bit of emery cloth to get a good finish.
I never stop the lathe without stopping the lead screw feed first or most of the time I use the longitudinal feed manually and stop advancing before stopping the lathe. I even move back a bit. Carbide insert does not work when it stops even if it is in the same position, it does not press to make chips (not engaged). Thats is why I assure you that it does not suffer damage. I have watched other lathed surface from other videos by others and they are not better. The only difference is that I use a larger zoom and the imperfections thus become visibile. :)) The huge benefit of the flattering or burnishing tool is not that it mekes a mirror surface but produces a harder surface through multiple passes, a fact that no other finishing or turning method produces. That's why I think it's a ”must have” for any machinist. As for perfecting the turned surface only with the lathe, I learned some methods from you that surely make me a better student (higher speed, knife position, sharpening method). But burnishing tool is not only mirror surface. I learned this from your comments and thank you for that as well.
Interesting take on a burnishing tool, a little bulky for my tastes. Most external burnishing tools pinch the part for a reason, you put a lot of sideways pressure on the work when you do this. I'd recommend using your follow rest if you want to do this on anything longer than a few cm.
The "bulky" model is my concept.I chose a large bearing to increase the contact area with the ball and I don't want to completely copy the existing models because then I don't really see the point of filming myself. Whether it is a successful and sustainable model remains to be seen. Right now it's perfectly functional and I'll be using it for a long time to come.(I hope) Any problem that arises I will film and explain. Thank you for your comment and technical suggestions !
I like your lathe. What is the make and model? Thanks.
Damatomacchine DM 520. Italia. Thank you for watching !
Does the tool change the dimension of the part after use? Great video!
Yes. The part that appears in the movie was thinned by 0.06 mm. (0.03 mm radius) The same difference is regardless of the thickness of the part, but it depends on the roughness of the turning over which the ball passes. This difference applies to the fine turning in the video. If you still need an answer, please don't hesitate to ask me. Thank you very much for the message !
Whole I appreciate the effort you went to in making that tool, when would you use it?
In all videos from now on that will contain turned parts. Where I have to sand the surfaces with sandpaper I will use this tool. Thank you for your comment !
My doubts: 1)if higher pressure is better so smaller ball should be used? 2)I a saw a video using a small cilinder instead a ball of a ball bearing with same results then why not use just a ball bearing, i mean same device some people uses for centering the piece? 3)Is that better than polishing or should be before/after polishing? Thanks.
1. A small ball flattens more effectively than a large ball. Being a smaller contact surface, its efficiency increases and the pressure doe not have to be as high as with a large ball 2. Model that contains a small cylinder has the advantage of being to able to approach the end of the part, but not the entaire surface of the cylinder is in the contact with the part, but only the tip of the small cylinder. 3. The smoother the surface, the less stress is placed on the ball and the better the results. Thank you for watching !
nice burnishing fixture!
Thank you for your appreciation and for your time!
Does a wonderful job.
Thank you very much! I needed this message.
How much pressure are you applying?
@@dperfetti1 It doesn't require a very big pressure but not a small one either. So that the rotation of the ball is smooth.
@JIMMY916 Thank you for the reply.
It looks like the tool slightly deforms the part and reduces the diameter. do you know if the amount can be controlled / predicted? or for precise dimensions will you always need a test part and a way to repeatably apply the same pressure?
When the ball touches the part, the scale is adjusted to 0 mm. Pressing will be indicated by the scale of the lathe. A first test is needed to see how much to compress the part until the desired finish is reached. For harder materials, more passes are required but with the same result. I did not do this test, but I think that the part must be turned to a larger diameter by approx. 0,03-0,04 mm so that after finishing it remains at the desired diameter. The first time I use it, I will also film this aspect. Thank you for your comment and for your interest !
I believe that taking a measurement with a Palmer caliper BEFORE the "burnishing" threatment, is a false value, the caliper only sees the "montains tops". After "threatment" montains-tops became only "hills" and thereafter ( with a third pass ) ... just plain surface.
Of couse the problem is "AT WHAT DIAMETER STOP LATHING" ... or - otherwise - go on with alternative multiple passes, lathing, burnishing, and then lathing again ... ?
I built up an equivalent tool i saw from U-Tube, i used a ( ? ) hard stone ball escaping out from an old equipment ( having not diamond balls to discard ... ). The tool is very tiny, made of a bore through an hex steel bar ( could be equally a square one ), 100 mm in lenght, 12 mm type, a bit reduced to fit in my tool post : there i inserted the ball, a spring, then a metal ball and a screw at the end to make some type of regulation in tension. It works, lubrification is a must if you don't want to see the ball fast become an "half ball".
I have to say i'm only an hobbist, moreover my lathe is a chinese one 7 x 12 inches, so i'm not pretending to be a "master", this is only my experience. ( i'm playing with my lathe from 2006 ).
I also need a suggestion ... if anybody can help me.
I noticed my lathed pieces come out in a tapered shape instead that cylindrical.
For 10,00 millimeters travels toward chuck, i lost 0,01 millimeters.
This is not depending from any "flection" of the piece, 0,5 mm pass and 0,1 mm pass give me identical result. Nor anything changes if i lathe the piece from right or from left, so i discard the idea of the tool becaming hot ( and so longer ... ), the piece is always thinner near the chuck, and always of the some amount ...
Nor using tailstock changes anything ...
I believe my spin in not lined up with guides ...
How could i solve this problem ? Working "between points" instead gives me a perfect cylindrical shape, as i carefully adjusted the tail-stock position ...
Or ... is this error "the better i can get" from a chinese lathe ? ( not adjustments provided, if you ever have seen a chinese lathe ... under the spin box there is only a "V" ( inverted ) shape to fit against guides, nothing else ... can i use some metal thin pieces ( 0,03 millimeters thick ) under the spin box to correct this error ?
Thank you very much for any help or suggestions ...
@@alessandroandrenacci2372 the error definitely sounds like the ways of your lathe aren't true and aligned. I'd suggest getting a precise level and shiming the feet of your lathe to make the bed as level as you can manage. from what I know, only after truing up the bed should you try shimming the headstock
@@Stellar_Lake_sys thank you very much for your kind answer, i hope you are going to solve my problem ... as my spin is pointing not toward me, but to the opposite side ( in fact i get lower diameters nearer to chuck ), what foot of the right side of the lathe shall i lift up ?
Thank you again for your help and patience ...
... and my best regards from Italy ...
I know that every lathe has an adjustment for flatness. This adjustment for your lathe is done by turning the three or four screws that are behind the chuck. Through the holes of the flange that supports the chuck and that remains attached to the lathe, insert a screwdriver and turn gently. Ther are three or four screws behind the flange.Through repeat checks you will reach the desired result. In conclusion, the screwdriver behind the chuck are for adjustment and any lathe has flatness adjustments (be it chinese too). I hope it helps you and solve this problem. Thank you for your comment!
Regarding the lathe, is that product of Emco Maier? (I have Emco Maier Maximat 11, & it looks very similar, having milling head, but it is mounted in the middle of the bed, not at headstock end.)
When you pressed that pulley on, you should never apply pressure on the sheaves, as they can crack on cast-iron pulley. Ring-shim should be placed to put pressure on the hub, not the sheave.
What you have made is a metal burnisher. It's sort of like knurling, but with smooth, hardened tool. What does it do to dimension (diameter)? How much do you need to machine "over" to compensate?
It is an italian model. Damatomacchine DM 550. I t is manufactured in 2016. As for the dimensions of the part shown, the differences are 0.05 mm smaller after the ball passes over the turned surface. 0.025 mm radius. I assume that this difference will be identical regardless of the diameter of the part. Thank you for your comment !
The bearing was pressed by pressing the inner ring on that shaft, the outer ring was not pressed. It's the only correct way I know to press a bearing. I hope this is what your comment refers to. Thank you!
Метод рабочий! Еще и поверхность детали становится прочнее!
It is true and besides that it is an extra protection against rusting. Thank you very much for your comment !
Regarding the difficulty getting work to run true in chuck: you should face outer end first, then turn around in chuck with faced side against jaws. Then face the outside end. You will have 2 faced ends square to the outside diameter. There should be no need for hammering tweak.
I made the adjustment to turn the outside. I moved the part towards the tips of the chuck jaws so as not to turn the jaws. The part was moved 2 mm to protect the jaws. The facets were turned correctly, only the outsides had to be turned. Thank you for your comment !
He didn't want the faced side against the jaws, because he was going to turn the diameter all the way, and did not want his tool hitting his chuck.
@@xtnuser5338 Thank you for your comment!
@@JIMMY916 You are welcome. It may be useful to prepare a few rings or disks of various diameters and a few mm thick, faced parallel on both sides, to act as a spacer to put between the chuck and a work piece. Such a spacer ring or disk would register a faced surface parallel to the chuck without needing to dial it in. Quick and easy.
@@xtnuser5338 Yes, thats a good ideea ! I will use your method next time. 👍
What manufacturer of lathe/mill combination machines is this?
Whats the cost for one? Is it single phase geared, step pulleys, or VFD or is there options with this style/model?
Damatomacchine MASTER 520. Italian product. About 2600 euro. Single phase and step pulleys gears.
Very good Ideea. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much, my friend !
Thanks for the great lesson.
Thank you very much ! Your words honor me and give me the greatest reward
Is it important to accurately set the centre height?
If the ball is adjusted to the center of the part, then the scale of the lathe will indicate the correct values. 0,01 mm will be 0.01 mm only if we are on the centre. Pressing the ball ”thins” the part that has been turned on the lathe. The alignment should eliminate as much as possible the friction against the walls of the hole where it is located. Its misalignment would produce greater wear of the hole. Thank you for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 Thanks, I thought it could be made accurately enough using the base of the square section as the datum.
Muito bom trabalho amigo,perfeito!!!!
Sucesso e muita saúde!!!
Thank you very much , my friend ! Your comments encourage me.
Does you little dog have any trouble getting metal splinters in his feet? I have one that i cant keep out of the shop
when i am working
@@liftmech9988 My workshop is so small that my puppy doesn't take more than three steps to her place. Chances are lower :)) It is indeed a problem. I have already managed to make it stop coming in.
I've not see a burnishing tool like this before. Most I've seen used the OD of the bearing to engage the part on a slight angle.
My "invention" is the rotating component that covers the bearing and that has the role of not spread the oil everywhere, to make centering on the part easier , to not leave the bearing exposed, and a fourht use will appear in a future video. Using a ball and bearing to finish a part is not my ideea. Thank you very much for watching and for your comment!
@@JIMMY916 Jimmy, my friend. That term ("Invention") is certain to generate flack. As your fiend the best advice I can give is ...don't use it. Odds are ,.. it's probably the translation to English that gets lost. Here's a short list of English terms that best describes what we do here on RUclips Shop Practice:
"My Design" , "
Damn it! RUclips did it to me again. Three or more paragraphs vanished! Use the term "My Design" instead. It will keep the Ankle Biters away!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Nice work 👍😀
And a nice homemade tool 👍
Thank you sir ! Your appreciation is the energy I need and honors me.
Does this machine not have a lead screw?
@@HUD308Sorry. I do not understand the question...
You don't have a .pdf copy of the manual for that lathe/mill machine do you? Or a link to one in English?
Unfortunately, as far as I know, it only exists in italian. If it's useful for you, let me know and I'll look for it.
@@JIMMY916 I'd love to have a copy of it. I'm sure that Google Translates can convert it to English for me if it's a digital copy. And I appreciate it very much.
I looked in my computer and can't find them. Instead, I found them on the internet. You have to look exactly as I tell you ”Maquinaria para Carpintero AT 520 MULTI- PURPOSE MACHINE” and you will find a PDF with all the information of my model. If you need other information, please ask.
@@JIMMY916 Found it! Many thanks. Your info leads me to another link with an English version of the same machine with different company on it. AT520 seems to be a popular model
@@JIMMY916 Any chance you can provide me with the 3 belt sizes for the lathe drive? There are 2 for low speeds and a single for the higher speeds. What I have is not correct.
Maybe check if the ball is rotating freely, or there's something snagging it here and there. Because that tool should be able to deliver real mirror, but only if the ball rotates very smoothly. MAybe you need to run it longer until it positions properly and nothing catches. I watched the video with similar tool just yesterday, and it wasn't that much different, but the result was near perfect mirror, and your tool can do it, too.
There is no doubt that the ball is spinning freely. In the last test the camera is focused on the bearing and it rotates perfectly. For the real mirror I had to go over the surface one more time. I wanted to present the idea more than the perfection of the processing achieved by it. I thought it's obvious that more passes or more pressure on the part make perfect mirror. In future projects when I use it, it will be a maximum yield and the mirror will be perfect.Thank you for watching and I appreciate your advice !
@@JIMMY916 It was also not my intention to criticize you, or the tool, jst for a sake of criticizing. I may have been still under impression of that other video where the perfect mirror finish happened in the very first try, and after just one step, so it did not seem right that the same did not quite realize here. Of course, that finish may very well have been the result of decades of experience and who knows how many similar, or identical tools made in the past. This finish is in a way similar to knurling, where everything has to be just right to get the good result in one pass. In any case, just keep up the good work.
@@johnsmith-000 To be as believable as possible, I dont shoot a sequence several times, I don't do tests before shooting, thats why id doesn't always come out perfectly. There are many details that I leave out due to lack of experience. All the tools I produce are built for the first time and are used by me "live". I love filming them working "first hand" and I think the best thing about RUclips is that we learn from each other. Now I understand your comment better and understand that it is made with the best intentions. Including interpreting each message correctly is something that needs to be learned. Thank you for your message and I hope talk again!
What is the mfg and model of your 3-in-1 lathe? I had a used Shoptask years ago but not-so-good. Thanks
It is an italian product DAMATOMACCHINE DM 550. The center distance is 550 mm. and the chuck size is 130 mm. It is manufactured in the year 2016. I am satisfied with it, it has no errors and work absolut perfectly. The only big drawback is that it does not have a speed lower than 160 rpm/min. Thank you for watching!
I had the exact same one but called Shop Master. It was designed by guys building race cars and they sent it off to china for mass production for them. The Chinese sold them out the back door but different names.
What I don't understand is how the Chinese manage to make and sell the same products at a fraction of the price. This is a big puzzle for me !
@@JIMMY916 cost of labor and little to no regulations. The US will probably never get back into the steel industry due to epa regulations just to start. Our steel would probably be 10x the cost of foreign steel.
@@mikefox5510 Yes, there are many strange things in this world...
How does this effect your end dimensions? Say you were shooting for 50mm would it take .05 mm off ?
The part in the video was 37.66 mm and now it is 37.60. The difference of 0.06 mm is probably valid for any part thickness. (0.03 radius). It also depends on how rough the turning is. Thank you for your comment !
That's a nice project.
And thats a nice comment for me. Thank you very much !
How much does it affect the dimensions of the part?
Probably somewhere around 0.03mm- 0.04mm. I have not measured, but in the first video in which I will use it I will make this measurement and present it. However, it also depends on how fine the turning is. For a turning like I did, this is probably it. Thank you for watching!
No gloves (or wide/long armed shirts) during working at a lathe please !!
And a question. Why does your lathe have such a rough running ?
@@foxwhiskey Thank you for the advice and for being kind enough to write me this. I haven't worn them since. Rough running is probably due to low speed. I'll have to change the speed gear of lathe or give up the zoom I'm shooting with:)) Thank you very much for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 ....I forgot to say...the precision of your work is fantastic, the working-process very good. For my work at the lathe I've made a similar tool, too.
Greetings
Your appreciation honors me . I'm proud that someone talks like this about my work. Thank you !
Nice work
Thank you very much sir! Your appreciation honors me!
Pls don't use gloves when working a lathe. They can get you pulled in.
Thank you for the advice . I already threw them away !!
@@JIMMY916 Thanks, I used to work in a machine shop and we had a guy who lost several fingers because some long stringy chips grabbed his wedding ring and acted like razors and mulched his fingers. Please Stay safe out there!
@The_Foolish_Fool Almost everyone who wrote me comments told me about terrible experiences what scares me, I can admit I work on the lathe only as a hobby, so I am not aware of the dangers. Anyway, my lathe is certainly not as a dangerous as the lathes you work on. Thanks again for writing me about these dangers, my friend !
@@JIMMY916 That's the attitude that gets people injured. Treat every lathe as an extremely dangerous machine!
Not a good idea wearing gloves while working on a lathe.
Yes, you are right ! I'm "addicted" to gloves. I'm trying to get out of the habit of wearing them...Thank you very much for your advice !
@@JIMMY916 stay safe :)
Thanks! I will be 👍
In some parts of the world it is standard practice to wear gloves, not judging just saying. The thing is, a risk is only a danger if you are unaware.
"A risk is only a danger if you are unaware". It amazes me that every post on my channel teaches me something. That means there are only intelligent people here and I am honored by your presence. Thank you !
Yeah I'm sorry I can get the same finish with the proper speed feed and tooling. I won't even begin to think about using a burnishing tool unless I'm trying to get a 4 microfinish or something better. I can attain a 32 or even a 16 RMA finish on a daily basis day in and day out without using such a bulky device that clearly will only work for just a few setups if your parts any longer than an inch or so good luck keeping it straight with no taper
I am very curious, but from your comment I understand that you have never used this tool. If is just an opinion without the experience of using it, are you absolutely sure that you cannot be wrong in considering that tool is useless? If you want to watch my other videos, you will see that I use all the projects I have built. It will not be an exception with this one either and in the near future we will see if you are right or not. Thank you for your comment and I'm waiting for you with other opinions !
@JIMMY916 I've been a machinist 40 years now. Obviously, I have used a burnishing tool more than once. And I can tell you from experience your design is a large and clumsy design, and there are much better burnishing tools on the market today that you can probably pick up a lot cheaper than the labor cost that it took you to make that one. So does that answer your curiosity at all. I mean I have thought just by the fact that I'm throwing out figures like a four microfinish or the fact that I can turn a 32 or 16 RMA finish daily would give you some sort of inkling that I do know a bit about this trade and that I'm probably most likely a machinist because there's very few people other than a machinist that would even know what a 16 RMA finish is
I congratulate you and your career and I assure you that I respect your experience. At the moment I have no arguments to support whether it will work properly or not because unfortunately I cannot test this now, but I assure you that the failure or succes of its operation will be filmed. But both enthusiasm and failure are a part of our life. Here we don't compete with each other, we just enjoy together and I admit that sometimes I forget that too. Thank you sir !
wow, i get that finish with my regular lathe tooling ...i dont know why but i find the finish of his part is not very good
Someday maybe I can too. Until I find someone who can explain to me how he does it, I'm doing the best I can. I'm far from knowing them all. Thank you for your time !
@@JIMMY916 Higher RPM generally helps with surface finish.
@@topduk Thank you! Good to know!
Instead of spending so much time fixing the face runout , you can just use a piece of brass strip , between the tool and the rotating part... Take seconds to get it running true
I don't have a brass strip, and if I did, I wouldn't know the method anyway. Thank you for the suggestion !
Your machine looks just like my mid90s ShopTask machine, only green and with more modern style switches.
The oldest model of this kind that I saw was a model from the 60', only it was much more robust. Mine is from 2016. These models have advantages but also disavantages. Thank you for your comment !
Please don't ever let your dog into the workshop. And get rid of the gloves.
If I don't let her in, she cries at the door until I let her in. He stays for a while and wants to go out. As for the gloves, I gave them up because of you and I thank you for that. I was addicted to them even though I knew it was dangerous to wear them. The last four videos are without gloves and that's how they will be from now on.
@@JIMMY916 Doesn't matter, train your dog not to cry. It is deeply irresponsible to allow a dog into a workshop with heavy machinery.
I will do it. Thanks again !
If you have skin sensitive to chemicals & oils, possibilities for hand protection are barrier creams or possibly delicate rubber gloves that fit close & tear easily. Barrier cream has its own problems.
Cloth gloves are the most comfortable for handling items, but need to be kept away from any rotating machinery.
Pets are a common 'fitment' in a one man workshop & can sit quietly, never presenting a problem but no doubt 'elf & safety entirely bans them!
@@pcka12 The only time you should ever allow pets in the workshop is if they're in a locked cage a dozen meters away from the machinery at the other end of the room. I don't care about your sensibilities, it's plain irresponsible.
Please enable captions. Background machine noise makes sound partially inaudible to the hearing impaired due to a lifetime of machine use. It's like the past coming back to bite you in your sorry ass.
Unfortunately I don't have the the possibility to activate the subtitles . The English subtitle option isvactive. All you have to do is press the subtitle button. I'm sorry I can't do more. Thank you!
The captions button is obscured. No problem.. continue with your welcome content.
@@kencannuck Thank you for your appreciation ! It means a lot to me
WOW...another burnishing tool. Who'lda thought it ?. What happened to originality ?.
My contribution is the shape that ensures continuous lubrication between ball and bearing, the size of the bearing (the choice of a smaller ball for a better action), the possibility of use on all types of lathes by adjusting the heigt from center. I think I came up with some original ideas in this video... I suppose that when you look at the cars around you, you consider them all the same because they have an engine and four wheels ? Thank you for your comment !
Such a horrible noise in the lathe.
I'm sorry for the inconvenience. The belts are worn.
Total waste of time, use better quality inserts & finish with emery cloth
I'm sure it's a total waste of time to tell you that the surface gets harder by pressing the metal. I'm not the only one saying this, experienced machinists like you have said it. But you can probably only achieve this with quality inserts.
Thanks for sharing, don't use gloves around rotating power. It is a recipe for getting sucked into a machine and seriously injured. just google gloves, shop tools, accident , injury.
Thank you for the advice. This was the last video in which I wear them. The four videos I've made since then are without and that's how they'll all be from now on. Thank you very much !
@@JIMMY916 That is awesome! thank you, the [last thing I want to see is you or any other get hurt from this kind of thing. I witnessed a friend at work chop his hand in 2 because he got stuck. thanks for posting the videos, I know how much work they are.
I sincerely thank you for taking the time to write these things. There are very important things that you have the kindness to convey to me and for that I am very grateful.